With so many new restaurants emerging in Hong Kong’s already vibrant gourmet scene, this year will definitely be an exciting one for those with a taste for fine cuisine. Against this ebullient backdrop, newcomers face a considerable challenge when it comes to wooing Hong Kong’s increasingly fastidious array of increasingly sophisticated foodies.
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One establishment clearly relishing the prospect is The Ocean, the newest establishment from the team behind Bibo, Sheung Wan’s ever-popular French eatery. Opened just four months ago, The Ocean certainly mainlines on its maritime motif, with its look a challenge to the sea legs of all but the most nautical of diners.
With circular sofa seating, suitable for up to four diners, the interior is fetchingly upholstered in white, punctuated with sea blue throw cushions, while enjoying breathtaking panoramic views out over Repulse Bay. The light brown wood flooring, meanwhile, captures the very essence of the shore, all tantalizingly counterpointed by acquatic blue walls, white and blue frosted glass lamps and flickering candle light on each table. It should be no surprise then that the The Ocean specialises in high-quality seasonal seafood, all creatively and artistically presented with a veritable marine melee of the finest, freshest ingredients.
The extensive wine list boasts an array of Old and New World favourites, with a telling emphasis on the very finest sparkling, rosé, white, red, Chardonnay and Shiraz contenders. A specialty of the house is the bartender’s personally curated take on an alcohol-free mojito, a surprisingly appealing blend of cucumber, mint and ginger beer.
Moving on to more solid fare and taking point on the food menu is The First Dive, a five-course set (HK$888); Deep Blue, an eight-course set (HK$1,188) and the Ultramarine, a robust 10-course set ($1,488). For those seeking a more bespoke approach, there is also an à la carte option of items from the charcoal grill.
To start, we opted for a selection of five bite-sized appetizers, all draped over a shell and served on a ridge of a jagged rock. With little option but to dig in finger buffet style, the stand-outs here were the creamy truffle-stuffed mini-puffs filled with truffle cream. A close second, though, was the beetroot and carrot tartar, neatly served in a petite crispy cone. These two outshone the otherwise delicious trio of cold herbed potato balls, stuffed leaves, and hot crispy risotto rice with cheese cubes.