Italy has gifted the world’s gourmands with seemingly never-ending pizza and pasta variations, while France has divvied a fine selection of cheese and jambons. Even Germany, meanwhile, has several sumptuous(ish) schnitzels and wursts to its name. What, though, of Great Britain? What can this sceptred isle claim by way of tummy treats for the internationally peckish?
If you’re thinking bangers and mash, boiled cabbage or pork pies, you’re not far off the mark when it comes to UKatering, though none of these are likely to get the Men from Michelin ordering seconds. Or, for the most part, firsts.
The widely-held view of England’s lack of eminence in the edibility stakes may just be about to change, however, with one new Central-set cuisinery – Statement – determined to bring a bite-to-eat Blighty-style bang-up-to-date as the Year of the Boar shuffles, trotters to the fore, into view. Set on the top floor of the wholly-renovated, heritage Tai Kwun building – once home to the former Central Police Station – and owned and operated by the always-sampleable Aqua Restaurant Group, it’s on a mission to see hungry Hongkongers soon noshing down on London-style lunches and supper a-la-Salisbury-style.
Upon stepping into Statement’s decorously-appointed dining area, it is immediately apparent that Aqua is keen to dispel any notion that that it has invested its hard-earned money in an upmarket fish-and-chippery. From its coolly elegant dark interiors to its plush tropical verandahs (overlooking either the fleshpots of Hollywood Road or the Tai Kwun Compound) nary the merest hint of battered haddock is to be had. Indeed, all thoughts of stodgy servings vanish as the first plate hoves into view.
Our particular tasting began in fine form with the first of the starters being no less than Heirloom beetroot parcels with aubergine, red pepper, kaffir lime yoghurt, with not the faintest whiff of a pea, mushy or otherwise. If anything, a tad reminiscent of a rich ravioli, these pure purple bites enveloped a delicately-balanced red pepper-eggplant concoction, perfectly contrasting with the tart yoghurt and a generous sprinkle of pistachio nut crumble. Belying its arresting hues, the flavours were the last word in sophisticated subtlety.
Next up was Pan-fried Hokkaido scallops, smoked cabbage heart with Welsh laverbread butter. Here, the oft-derided cabbage took star billing as a perfect smoky foil for the exquisitely cooked, succulent scallops. The creamy, umami-packed laver sauce – a seaweed derivative, who knew? – then added just the right oceanic note, tying the whole dish together superbly.
Barely was the last scallop swallowed, when main course numero uno – Slow-cooked 24-hour marinated braised British oxtail – arrived, with the wait staff rightly billing it as a nicely novel alternative to the more standard steak fare. No disagreement on our part, with the melt-in-your-mouth texture of the shredded oxtail – paired with the tart tomato compote and smooth potato puree – a fitting treat for even the most discerning meat-minded diner.
That, though, proved just the warm-up act for main course number two – Slow-cooked Grassingham duck with plum sauce and salt-baked carrot. Perhaps oddly for a Great British game dish, it called to mind Peking Duck, with the well-prepared duck breast pairing perfectly with the piquancy of the plum sauce.
Full to the point of belt-buckle unbuckling, the prospect of a perfidious Albion afters remained irresistible and the Cranberry poached pear, buttermilk caramel mousse and Scottish shortbread combo didn’t disappoint. In particular, the refreshing tanginess of the bite-sized pear morsels proved the perfect counterpoint to our hearty repast. Add in the crunch of the secret-recipe shortbread and the tantalisingly sweet caramel mousse and it was a finely finessed finale to an unexpectedly haute cuisine experience.
From smoked cabbage hearts and braised oxtail to juicy duck breasts and poached pears, the establishment’s unambiguous ability to take ordinary British ingredients and transform them into a truly high-end culinary experience not only allows it to set a new benchmark in British gourmandry, it allows it to make a truly memorable Statement.
Text: Tenzing Thondup