Esther Sham gave up a promising modelling career to indulge her passion for the culinary arts, and now owns two highly-acclaimed restaurants of her own…
Tell us a little about your early years…
Well, I was born in Hong Kong to a Shanghainese father and a Chiu Chow mother. I spent the first half of my childhood here, before moving to Los Angeles. Looking back, it was the perfect combination – I spent just enough time in Hong Kong to become familiar with traditional Chinese culture and was then able to immerse myself in the more Western approach to off-the-wall thinking and self-belief.
What then led you into modelling?
Well, after high school, I studied for a Bachelor’s Degree in Contemporary Art at the University of California. Once I graduated, though, I found I wasn’t actually that keen to become an artist, so I was at something of a loose end. That’s when I decided to come back to Hong Kong and try and find a ‘normal’ job for myself. That, however, turned out to be more of a struggle than I’d expected. It was around then that a number of people suggested I should consider modelling, especially as I had the height for it.
What was your favourite part about modelling, and what proved to be the biggest challenge?
The best thing was that no two days were alike. I was never repeating myself so there was a constant novelty to it all. It helped that I wasn’t just doing fashion, but also commercials and even cameos in TV shows. At the same time, I really came to struggle with the instability and unpredictability of the job. While one particular month could be filled with bookings, the next might be completely empty. Although I was in a relatively stable position, I ended up becoming very insecure about it all, so I feel fortunate that I discovered my love of food just a short while later. It grounded me in a way I had never been before.
So, how did your love of cooking develop and when was it you decided to reinvent yourself as chef?
As a kid, I have to say, I had no real interest in cooking. At the same time, though, my family was very food-oriented. Both my parents come from strong culinary traditions, so eating well cooked meals was always a given. Looking back, though, I think my passion for food is down to my parents – and to my mother, in particular. She came from a family of truly amazing female cooks and she was the one who taught me the importance of bringing happiness to your own family through good food.
While I was working as a model I wasn’t allowed to eat a great deal, so I became extremely picky in my choice of cuisine. It was then when I realised that creating good food is really an art. Then, while on assignment in Singapore, I was then exposed to a whole new culinary scene, one quite distinct from Hong Kong or Los Angeles. It ignited a flame in my heart and I started experimenting with different cuisines. Soon, I realised that my passion for cooking had out stripped my love of modelling. That’s when I finally decided to take the plunge.
Given your upbringing in Hong Kong and the US, why did you opt to specialise in French cuisine?
When I discovered Gallic gastronomy, it was like discovering a new form of art, albeit one with any number of practical applications. Aside from the fantastic techniques and the inherent creativity, I think it was the amazing presentational skills that nouvelle cuisine demands that really appealed to my artistic nature. I fell in love with it wholeheartedly.
How did that lead you to opening your restaurants, Maison Es and Ta Pantry?
In 2008, I opened a private kitchen dedicated to serving a table of just six guests – Ta Pantry. It was a real one-woman show – from taking the bookings and creating the menus to buying the ingredients, cooking and ironing the table cloths, I did it all.
Eventually, I got married and, later, had two sons, so I was looking to develop my career in a more flexible and less time-consuming fashion. Ultimately, that’s what led me to open Maison Es in 2015. Having regular opening hours and a committed, well-trained staff to support me meant I could spend more time with my family, while still indulging my love of cooking.
Do you hope your sons will follow in your foodie footsteps?
Honestly, I think it’s a bit too early to tell, but there’s definitely a part of me that hopes they will. They’ve both already shown a tremendous passion for the culinary arts, and I believe that may be because I would constantly cook when I was pregnant. Even after my sons were born, I’d keep them close to me in the kitchen – and they were so unbelievably calm even in the middle of all that chaos. In a way, it’s already in their blood…
Thank you.
Interview by: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Jack Law
Art Direction: San Wong
Touch-up: Zoe Fan
Jewellery: Van Cleef & Arpels
Venue: Ta Pantry
For the full interview, find our latest issue of Gafencu’s print magazine or the PDF version on the Gafencu app. Download the app from the Google Play Store or Apple App Store.