There was a time when dive watches were primarily practical necessities, essential safety aids for underwater explorers, intrepid or otherwise. Take, for instance, the 1926 edition of the Rolex Oyster, a watch that incorporated the world’s first hermetically-sealed waterproof case, or the 1932 Omega “Marine”, a timepiece certified by the Swiss Laboratory for Horology as capable of withstanding depths of up to 135m.
Now, though, a state-of-the-art diver’s chronometer is less likely to see the bottom of the sea than a blind aquaphobic, with such elegant precision timepieces being more a status symbol than a life-or-death depth aid. Regardless of their changing role, there’s something about their maritime orientation that still brings out the very best in many of the world’s finest watchmakers, with seven relatively recent releases more than testifying to that.
First up is Blancpain’s latest iteration of its legendary Fifty Fathoms model – the Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. First revealed to the world in 1953, it was swiftly adopted by the highly-trained combat swimmers of the French Marine Corps. Later, in the ’60s, a dual-tone version regularly graced the wrists of the German Bundesmarine, courtesy of a proprietary arrangement with Barakuda, a Hamburg-based manufacturer of diving equipment. It is this iconic edition that is the direct forebear of the 2019 version, which boasts the self-same two-tone notes and tropical rubber strap. Fitted with a 1151 self-winding movement and water-resistant to 300m, just 500 of these tide-proof timepieces will ever see the light of day.
Another reinterpretation of a classic diver’s watch comes courtesy of Glashütte Original, with its new SeaQ Panorama Date giving a knowing nod to the brand’s own much-acclaimed 1969 Spezimatic. As well as being water-resistant up to a depth of 300m and having its date aperture unusually placed at 4 o’clock, it also features white numerals on its sunray-finished black (or blue) dial, while its beautiful Calibre 36-13 movement is visible through its transparent sapphire-crystal caseback. The choice of grey nylon mesh straps or a stainless-steel bracelet is left to the purchaser.
Taking a more charitable approach to dive watches is IWC, with its 13-year partnership with the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation spawning the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport for Good”. Powered by a proprietary Calibre 89365 movement, complete with a flyback function, it also features a hacking seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, a 60-seconds counter at 12 o’clock and an external / internal rotating bezel that ensures the utmost precision in dive time measurements. Engraved on its caseback is the winning artwork from this year’s Laureus World Sports Awards, co-hosted by IWC.
Clearly looking to maximise its global appeal is Carl F. Bucherer, with the high-end watchsmith launching a new Petrol Blue edition of its well-loved Patravi TravelTec. Functional to depths of 500m, this 46.6mm model offers three different time zone displays and comes fitted with a high-precision CFB 1901.1 automatic movement. Its eye-catching marine-motifed design, meanwhile, is manifested most memorably in its Petrol Blue dial and matching, highly-durable rubber straps.
Another true pioneer of dive watches is Tudor, with the Geneva-based haute horology house having introduced its first such model back in 1954. It is now looking to revisit this particular past glory via the Tudor Pelagos, a timepiece seen by many as setting a new high-water mark for underwater chronograms. Although certified as waterproof to 500m, each watch has actually endured factory testing to a depth of 625m. In addition, this rugged timepiece comes fitted with a 70-hour power reserve and a titanium case and bracelet said to be 40 percent lighter than any stainless-steel equivalent. Finally, its hour markers, hands and ceramic bezel indicators are all coated with a layer of luminescent Luminova for perfect deep-sea legibility.
Looking to take precision dive watches to new heights – or, rather, depths – of submergibility, meanwhile, is Rolex with its newly-minted Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller. Renowned as the brand behind the first-ever waterproof wristwatch, the latest addition to its range comes crafted in Rolesor – the marque’s proprietary gold and steel alloy – and sees 18K yellow gold used for the first time in this particular collection. With durability its core design conceit, it features a triple waterproof system said to be resistant to depths of 1,220m.
As to the ultimate deep-sea-voyaging statement timepiece, arguably, it may well be Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional. This, after all, was the watch on the wrist of American adventurer Victor Vescovo when he reached the 10,928m-deep bottom of the Mariana Trench earlier this year. Not only did this super-slim (less than 28mm) watch remain wholly functional, it is actually guaranteed to do so to depths of a further 4,000m. Shouldn’t let you down while you’re checking the time in a rainy golf club car park then, should it?
Text: Tenzing Thondup