Most eateries that feed the legendary epicurean appetites of Hong Kong’s urbanites are concentrated in high-density residential and business hubs like Central, Wanchai and Causeway Bay. It’s a daring spirit indeed who opts to eschew these hotspots in favour of a more off-the-beaten-path locale, but such is the case of one new Italian restaurant – Casa Cucina & Bar – that has popped up in a less frequented stretch of Sai Ying Pun.
Nestled on the corner of Connaught Road and Western Street, this highway-fronting three-storey venue was, by the admission of chef-owner Anthony Cheung, something of a gamble. “I originally wanted to open an eight-seat pasta bar, but in the end, the amazing rent of this location was just too tempting to resist,” he explains. Despite its capacious footprint, however, there’s something distinctly homely and welcoming about Casa’s interiors, where warm pinks, beige and orange embrace the 66 seats.
The food is also wonderfully hearty and accessible, focusing more on small family-style sharing platters rather than hefty mains and carbohydrates. “I want diners to experience Italy in my dishes,” says Cheung, “but I want to do it with my own unique style, with an emphasis on high-quality produce and a dash of Hong Kong mixed in as well.”
Eager to see his philosophy in practice, we begin our tasting with a cold appetiser, Scallop Carpaccio. A refreshing opening act, the creaminess of the thick slivers of raw scallop is enhanced with crunchy bites of seaweed and fried garlic. Cutting through the oceanic accents is a dash of pineapple juice, which imparts a hint of sweetness.
Next up is Duck Ragu Pappadelle, a Casa signature. The poultry is painstakingly braised in its own jus, while the perfectly al dente pasta enjoys a special richness thanks to the judicious addition of chicken liver parfait and cocoa powder. Soul satisfying without being overwhelmingly heavy, this is truly comfort food at its finest.
Then, a platter of Lamb Rack hovers into view, featuring three perfectly cooked ribs atop a bed of Cajun-spiced potato wedges. The New Zealand grass-fed lamb’s melt-in-your-mouth factor is, apparently, the result of careful preparation in the oven. It is the accompanying Madeira- and green peppercorn-infused sauce, though, lifts the flavour profile of the entire plate, bequeathing it with a memorable tingly spiciness.
Chef Cheung then shifts the focus back to the ocean with Cod Acqua Pazza – literally ‘cod in crazy water’. His particular iteration of the traditional fish stew, long a staple in coastal Italy, sees the fish in question braised alongside clams in a tangy blend of clam juice, tomatoes and olives. In keeping with the rustic nature of the dish, the accompanying slices of bread can be then dipped into the soup after the seafood has been consumed.
Although our appetites are already well and truly satiated, we manage to make room for the concluding course, Tofu Panna Cotta. Here, the traditional panna cotta is coated with red sugar – a staple topping for Hong Kong’s iconic ‘tofu fa’ dessert – and a splash of soy flavour, which meld to impart an umami-filled caramel sauce. Deceptively simple, it is perhaps this singular dish that best showcases Chef Cheung’s personal style and culinary vision, harmoniously fusing flavours from both East and West for a memorable dessert that’s far greater than the sum of its parts.
Casa Cucina & Bar
Shops 8 & 9, 158A Connaught Road West, Sai Ying Pun.
(852) 2887 9666
casacucina.hk