As horological statement pieces, skeleton watches afford aficionados the opportunity to glimpse the precision-engineered movements beneath their transparent dials. Their origins can be traced back to mid-18th century France, and more specifically, to watchmaker André-Charles Caron who created a timepiece that eschewed all the usual window dressing on the dial, leaving a clear view of the mechanism underneath.
Since that moment of clarity, the popularity of skeleton-dial watches has only grown, with haute-horology houses now clamouring to create ever more intricate designs with an open-worked fascia. Here, we highlight seven of the latest crop that merit particular mention.
Rotonde de Cartier by Cartier
First in our list of stunning skeletonised creations is Cartier’s Rotonde de Cartier Astronomystérieux, one of a trio of limited editions that comprise the Rotonde de Cartier Precious Icon Set. Taking place of pride on its transparent dial is the floating Calibre 9462 MC movement suspended inside a tourbillon carriage. This enticing display is housed in a 43.5mm palladium case, encircled by an outer ring featuring Roman-numeral hour markers. Fitted with teal alligator leather straps, only five pieces of this guaranteed collector’s item will ever be made.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-one
Another limited release comes in the form of the newest avatars of Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-one. The Swiss-headquartered watch manufacturer has, in fact, simultaneously released not one, not two, but three different versions – Black Ceramic Green, Black Ceramic Sky Blue, and Plasma Ceramic Yellow. All boast see-through dials that showcase the brand’s iconic ‘figure 8’ motif, with the hour-and-minute dial gracing its top half and a large seconds display located at the 6 o’clock position.
Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Saphire
Then, taking proceedings to dazzlingly transparent heights is Hublot’s Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire. Housed in a virtually scratch-proof sapphire crystal case, its open-worked fascia is dominated by the HUB6035 automatic movement, which is suspended on three transparent sapphire bridges to give the appearance that it is floating in mid-air. If that weren’t enough, even its strap received the see-through treatment – a feat that required 165 separate components – providing this 30-piece limited release with a truly airy appeal.
Piaget Polo Skeleton by Piaget
To capture a sportier look, luxury maison Piaget has unveiled the Piaget Polo Skeleton, a 42mm creation available in either Piaget blue PVD or slate grey. It’s the first time the Polo has gone skeletal, and the brand, which is already renowned for crafting super-slim timepieces, has truly outdone itself. Indeed, the watch’s overall case depth measures just 6.5mm – a remarkable 30 percent thinner than earlier editions.
Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune
A similarly lightweight feel comes courtesy of Hermès’ Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, a beautiful design crafted from ultra-light titanium. Not only does its skeletonised dial show off the super-slim Hermès H1953 Manufacture movement, it’s also the perfect frame to view the double moonphase display at 6 o’clock.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton
Eschewing minimalism for a more outré effect is the 88-piece Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton from noted avant-garde manufacturer Roger Dubuis. Spawned from its ongoing partnership with tyre brand Pirelli, this 45mm black titanium model features an undeniable racing DNA, as evidenced in the tyre-shaped case that houses the RD820SQ automatic skeleton movement.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton
For the ultimate in statement timepieces, though, feast your eyes on Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton. A master class in horological engineering, this 41.5mm white-gold creation houses one of the most intricate complications in the world of fine watchmaking – the perpetual calendar. The feat is all the more impressive given the open-worked design, which by its very nature requires the paring back of all but essential elements on the dial. Boasting supreme technical performance and stunning aesthetics, it truly sets a new bar for skeletonised watches.