Autumn does not mean pumpkin-spiced lattes for Hong Kongers (unlike the West) but calls for digging into copious portions of the steamed and meticulously prepared Chinese mitten crabs, Shanghai crabs or simply the hairy crabs. A delicacy in the Shanghainese cuisine, September to December is the peak time for this seasonal delicacy… Whether you’re a seasoned eater or new to the craze, we get all the lowdown on the these famed furry little fellows:
Easily recognisable by its fuzzy claws, most shops offer the roes between 4 and 7 taels. Priced between HK$400 to HK$900 per piece, a crab between 5.2 and 6.8 taels (about 200g to 260g) is enough for an indulgent portion.
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Yangcheng, Jingsu, Thaihu or Hokkaido crabs?
The most famed and sought-after breed originates from the Yangtze River around Shanghai, usually in Yangcheng Lake and Jiangsu province. However, with the rising local demand for premium golden roes within China, supplies for neighbouring Hong Kong have dropped and prices have shot up.
To add to the troubles of dining aficionados, the issue of counterfeit hairy crabs from Yangcheng province is also big challenge, leading many to look to other countries such as Japan, for alternatives.
Japanese Hokkaido hairy crabs from the fresh waters of Ishikari River are safe and quality choice in place of Yangtze crabs. Unlike the richness of its Chinese counterpart, Hokkaido hairy crabs are lighter and more fragrant. Taihu Lake crabs from China, too, serves as a great alternative to the Yangcheng Lake breed, similar in quality and mouth-watering fragrant roes.
But if you do wish to go for the famed Yangcheng Shanghainese crab, be sure to look out for the anti-counterfeiting barcode attached to the crabs to verify its authentication. Hairy crab sellers are given something called the Shell Fish (Hairy Crab) Permit from the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department, do look out for the stamp before you crack open a feast.
Where to get hairy crabs
Old San Yang
4 Pak Sha Road, Causeway Bay
For all things Shanghainese, this four-decade strong grocer has made a name for itself as one of the city’s go-to places for authentic Yangcheng and Taihu hairy crabs. Starting from 4 taels (HK$300 Up) and bigger, it is very popular among locals, especially during hairy crab season.
New Sam Yung Market
Hau Wong Road, Kowloon City
In Kowloon, Hau Wong Road is a popular for crab aficionados. Come autumn, the street is crowded with locals scurrying to grab the freshest batch available – offering Hokkaido as well as Jiangshu Shanghainese crabs – for at least HK$400 per 4.4 taels (166g).
Benson Crab & Wine
2 Min Fat Street, Happy Valley / info@benson.com.hk
An established wholesaler of hairy crabs since more than two decades, customers can enjoy wholesale price upon purchasing half or full baskets. It comes inclusive of 3 or 6 bottles of vinegar, ginger, sugar and perilla leaf to cook your own stress-free feast at home. Offering 58 pieces per bucket of 5 teals at $6,000 and 24 pcs of 6 teals at $3,900. Online orders are also available here.