Cellaring impressive bottlings from France as well as Australia, Italy, Spain, Germany and emerging wine nations like Lebanon, ThinkWine is more than just a wine bar; it’s a sojourn through the world’s vineyards. Romain Loriot, the visionary behind the venture, commits to procuring exciting offerings for the city’s wine connoisseurs to sip in an ambience that is second to none.
“The one problem I don’t experience anymore is fixing my hair,” says the debonair – and balding – French expatriate, poking fun at himself. “It’s a blessing and a curse at the same time.”
Loriot’s route to his vibrant/eclectic premises in Shelley Street, Central was shaped by his childhood experiences, culinary aspirations and passion for the nuances of the grape. He grew up in Montpellier, a city nestled in France’s Languedoc-Roussillon region, known for its rich wine culture. However, his early life was steeped in music rather than vines.
“Coming from a musical family, I was always surrounded by classical pieces and French singers,” he recalls. Although he played the piano, he felt a different calling. Academic struggles led him to vocational school, where he initially aspired to be a chef.
Loriot’s parents, although not industry professionals, had instilled in him a love of fine dining. Their frequent visits to Michelin-starred restaurants provided invaluable gastronomic experiences. “Without their encouragement, I might not have pursued my education at food and beverage school,” he reflects.
While he was raised in a region renowned for the beauty of its vineyards, it was his family’s dining preferences that ignited his interest in wine. “My parents encouraged me to acquire a unique skill set that would set me apart [in the F&B field] – knowledge of wine,” he says.
This support was instrumental in shaping his career. After three years of studying food and beverage management, a further year specialising in wine at a school in Nîmes was a turning point. There, he unearthed not only a fervour for wine but a natural aptitude for its appreciation.
Creative Juices
In 2011, Loriot’s professional path began in earnest as he entered the intense world of fine dining. His early career was marked by stints at prestigious restaurants, including those by Alain Ducasse, where he honed his skills as a sommelier. His time at The Dorchester in London and later at Rech, in Paris and in Hong Kong, heightened his understanding of wine and food pairing.
One of his most memorable episodes in eight years as a sommelier was at Rech in Paris, whose “talented chef had a deep passion for wine”. This synergy culminated in a unique collaboration whereby Loriot’s wine choice inspired a new dish, showcasing the harmonious relationship between cuisine and wine.
As Head Sommelier at Rech, he managed teams, oversaw stock and crafted engaging lists that reflected his wine ethos. These roles deepened his knowledge and helped him grow as a leader in a dynamic environment. “Developing unique wine pairings became a key aspect of my role,” he notes of his constant mission to enhance guests’ dining experiences.
From Think to Drink
The idea for ThinkWine had been brewing long before its 2019 launch. Loriot landed in Hong Kong in 2016, and after two years at Rech (which was located in the InterContinental Hotel) he stepped up the service industry ladder to become Group Sommelier at a thriving restaurant group. But then, inspired by personal milestones – his marriage and the impending arrival of his child – he recognised the time had come to establish a venue that encapsulated his wine vision. “We had not encountered a wine bar in Hong Kong that embodied the essence of ThinkWine,” he says.
From the outset, his goal as founder and Managing Director was to curate an exceptional list. This devotion to exclusivity and quality sets ThinkWine apart – for instance, it’s the only establishment outside France that offers bottles from Château de Cherubin & Rayas, the spectacular Renaissance castle in the Loire Valley. “We procure wines directly from France, leveraging the relationships I’ve established with various winemakers,” he explains, highlighting the meticulous selection process that defines his cellar.
At ThinkWine, patrons can expect a diverse array of wines, with approximately 75% of offerings from France. Selections from emerging wine-producing countries ensure accessibility for all enthusiasts, with bottles priced from HK$350 to $42,000. “Our focus is on the quality and flavour of the wines we choose,” he states.
In recent years, Loriot has championed producers outside his homeland, recognising their distinctive profiles. “When I arrived in Hong Kong, my knowledge was primarily centred on French varieties,” he admits. However, exposure to diverse labels from Australia, Italy and beyond has enriched his perspective. “Each country has its unique characteristics and stories behind its wines,” he adds, underscoring a pledge to showcase a broad spectrum of styles.
Glass Runneth Over
Loriot’s love of wine is intertwined with his philosophy of happiness. “Wine is indeed a significant part of my happiness,” he affirms. However, he emphasises that true fulfilment comes from balancing professional commitments with personal relationships. “The connections we build enhance our appreciation of life’s joys, including wine,” he reflects.
Looking ahead, he aims to extend ThinkWine’s scope. “In January 2023, we successfully launched our distribution channels to restaurants and hotels,” he reveals. He also envisions establishing new wine bars in Hong Kong, Macau and Shanghai, or even returning to France to share his inventive approach to wine enjoyment.
When asked about his favourite wines, Loriot expresses a fondness for Champagne and Burgundy, but also appreciates the outstanding pours of Australia that he has encountered during his time in Hong Kong. “Each vintage brings its own unique character and story,” he notes, highlighting the richness of the wine experience.
For those aspiring to enter the industry, Loriot believes a genuine passion for the winemaking craft is essential. “The initial stages can be challenging, but with perseverance and the right guidance, it is possible to achieve great heights,” he encourages, reflecting on his own journey and the dedication it demands.
As Loriot continues to curate a dazzling list and foster a deeper love for wine in the Hong Kong community, he embodies the spirit of exploration and discovery that defines the world of wine. Through ThinkWine, he not only shares exceptional vintages but also invites everyone to partake in the joy of wine appreciation, one glass at a time. Or, in his case, bottle.
“See all of this beautiful mess,” he says in delight, indicating empty bottles left over from their fifth anniversary bash the previous week. “We sure know how to throw an epic party, ha? Fun times and even more fun and brighter times ahead. I say cheers to that!”