Jambicious: Cartier’s Jambi necklace displays cutting-edge diamond-cuttery

Diamond-doting auction-goers were no doubt delighted by the impressive array of jewels and jadeites that went under the hammer under the careful scrutiny of Phillips Hong Kong earlier this year. Overall, though, the most must-have of the many top trinkets on offer was a unique and spectacular 43.40-carat Briolette diamond and ruby gem-set Jambi necklace, paired with a set of Cartier pendant earrings, which went for an undeniably dazzling US$1.3 million (HK$10.7 million).

The Briolette style of diamond cutting is said to be one of the most time-honoured gem-honing techniques. Originally pioneered and perfected in India, its history stretches back more than 800 years. Essentially, the process results in the presentation of a finished pear- or drop-shaped diamond, covered in triangular facets across its entire surface. Uniquely, this approach allows light to enter the gem and be refracted from all sides, resulting in some of the most unforgettable of all precious stone settings. Cartier, a brand with a deep attachment to all things Far East, has named the necklace “Sumatra”, a knowing nod to the ancient name after which modern-day Indonesia takes its name.