Rustic Roots: Every bite at Racines whispers the charm of the countryside and the future of French cuisine

It’s 12:30 pm on a breezy autumn afternoon in Sheung Wan, but in the Racines kitchen, dinner is already in full swing. Backs are curved over dough that will soon become sourdough loaves, the evening’s sorbet is well in hand, and beloved signature staples are being prepped. The restaurant itself is homey and unhurried, with an easy-going vibe that hides the greater ambitions of the chefs. Not to mention, the surprising choice of ’90s to early 2000s hip-hop playing in the background.

Designed around an illustration of a seedling and its roots (‘racines’ in French), the cascading tasting menu showcases the finest seasonal ingredients and celebrates the rich culinary traditions of the South of France. Nestled in the heart of Hong Kong, this petite restaurant garnered a well-deserved Michelin star this year, solidifying its status as a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts.

“I want our guests to feel a sense of comfort in our dining room, to relax and enjoy each dish and the elements we’ve created to reflect the autumn season,” says executive chef and co-owner Romain Dupeyre, who was raised in Nice. His co-chef, co-owner and best friend, Adrien Castillo, was a fellow apprentice at La Chèvre d’Or on the French Riviera nearly 20 years ago.

“We want to offer our guests a sense of fulfilment from the quality and creativity on their plates and enable them to feel connected to the experience, especially at our chefs’ counter where they can have a front-row seat to the team’s creative process and interact with us.”

The six-course dinner tasting menu begins and ends with a humble vegetable reimagined in unexpected ways. The opening act, Camus Artichoke, is an inventive take on traditional duck-and-walnut salade Landaise. It expertly balances earthy notes with the vibrant flavours of southern France, creating a delightful medley that awakens the senses.

“I love to put a unique twist and artistry to each dish to spark curiosity and take our guests on a discovery of new tastes and textures,” says Chef Dupeyre. “I hope to ignite a sense of excitement and wonder about the culinary possibilities of the ingredients, and so far, it’s been very well received. Guests are often surprised when this dish is presented, because it’s not how they would have had it before, but they’re open to it, and delighted by it.”

The third course is a particular standout: Mediterranean red mullet, which pays homage to the classic bouillabaisse. The dual preparation of the fish is a bold culinary statement. For the first, a cold dish, the mullet is air-dried for three days, intensifying its flavour while imparting a delicate texture. Cured in a blend of salt, sugar, lemon and orange juice, it’s both refreshing and rich. The second preparation sees the fish pan-fried to perfection, the subtle crispiness complementing the tender flesh.

Brittany pigeon and Brandt beef from California, both elevated to new heights as main-course choices, are faultless. The pigeon, paired with figs at their seasonal peak, presents a perfect harmony of sweetness and rich, savoury flavours. Meanwhile, the ribeye flank, kissed by the smoky essence of a binchotan grill, embodies the heartiness of the season. The beef is enhanced by a selection of seasonal ingredients that deepen its flavour profile.

Following the cheese course served with house-made sorbet, Jerusalem artichoke takes centre stage, defying traditional dessert expectations. The chefs skilfully transform this root vegetable into a sweet finale that captures the essence of autumn. It’s an unexpected twist that not only surprises the palate but also leaves a lasting impression, marking a memorable end to the meal.

Complete with a root chandelier and a dining countertop engraved with the Chinese characters for prosperity and power, Racines provides irrefutable assurance that rustic dining is not and should not be at all intimidating. More than good food and more than a gateway to French cuisine, it is a sign of the times that beautifully marries tradition with innovation.

Racines, 22 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong.

Photos: Racines Video: Jack Fontanilla

North Star: A fusion of history and contemporary mastery, Hutong’s hero dishes lead gourmets to heavenly highs

Hutong is not just a restaurant; it’s a vibrant canvas where the rich tapestry of Northern Chinese cuisine comes to life. Step into this exquisite dining venue and the elegant décor inspired by the traditional hutongs of Beijing envelops you in an atmosphere that feels both contemporary and steeped in history.

A sensational four-hands collaboration recently united colleagues and culinary virtuosos Cheung Yung-keung, Head Chef of Hutong Hong Kong, and Ren Dingxu, Head Chef of Hutong Dubai, with each bringing their extensive expertise and deep-rooted passion for the cuisines of two distinct Chinese regions. “I sought to capture the essence of Shanghainese cuisine, which is known for its rich, savoury flavours and meticulous preparation,” shares Chef Cheung about his inspiration for the collaboration. “These dishes are my homage to the culinary traditions of Shanghai, brought to life through the lens of contemporary dining.”

A symphony of flavours began with an exquisite tea-smoked pigeon, a dish that pays homage to Shanghai’s culinary traditions. Tender squab is braised and delicately smoked with Biluochun tea leaves and fragrant roses from Jiangsu. The first bite was a revelation; the subtle smokiness danced on the palate, leaving a sophisticated aftertaste that lingered, enticing the senses for what lies ahead.

Next to arrive, the dim-sum platter was a feast for both the eyes and the palate. This trio featured a lobster dumpling, where sweet lobster meets a hint of spicy seafood essence; a peach gum mushroom dumpling, inspired by ancient Chinese medicinal texts; and a wagyu beef green chilli dumpling, combining premium wagyu with the fiery kick of Sichuan’s tiger-skin peppers. Each piece is a testament to the chefs’ dedication to quality and innovation.

Honouring tradition with a modern twist, the evening continued with the braised fillet of eel with bean sprouts and dark soy sauce. Here, a secret dark soy sauce recipe enhances the fish, resulting in a dish that epitomises tenderness and richness. The contrast of lightly stir-fried bean sprouts adds a fresh crunch, creating a harmonious balance that celebrates traditional Shanghai flavours.

Following this was Sichuan-style Chilean sea bass with bamboo shoots, providing a modern twist on classic preparations. Grilled to perfection, the fish is enveloped in a vibrant homemade jiao mao sauce, with the bamboo shoots contributing a refreshing texture that elevates the dish. The culinary journey took a bold turn with the spicy suckling pig with kung po sauce, a delightful nod to Shanghai’s braised pork. For this dish, pulled pork belly infused with Hutong’s signature chilli oil is paired with crispy suckling pig skin, creating a delightful contrast of textures and a symphony of spicy savouriness that tantalises the taste buds.

Another showstopper dish, Spanish red prawns with crispy rice in seafood broth, reflected the luxurious nature of this special menu. Prawns bathed in a rich, lobster-infused broth are complemented by crispy rice, providing a captivating crunch that enhances the seafood’s natural sweetness. The pièce de résistance was undoubtedly flaming wagyu beef char siu. A5 wagyu chuck ribs flambéed with rose liqueur and rum and accompanied by shiny Muscat grapes and kumquat create a dramatic presentation that is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. The rich, tender beef paired with the sweet, tangy fruit delivers a flavour explosion that is unforgettable.

“These dishes are my tribute to the dynamic culinary heritage of my native Sichuan,” says the visiting Chef Ren.

As a sweet conclusion, the Golden Fortune dessert is a symbol of prosperity and celebration. Inspired by the lychee varieties of Lingshan County in Guangxi, this refreshing finale features lychee purée, ginger sorbet and lemongrass. It was an aromatic end to an extraordinary meal, with the optional wine and sake pairings further enhancing each dish.

Whether you are a connoisseur of Chinese food or a curious newcomer, Chef Cheung orchestrates an unforgettable culinary journey nightly at Hutong in Hong Kong.

Hutong, 18/F, H Zentre, 15 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Photos: Hutong Hong Kong Video: Jack Fontanilla

High Whisk: The Mira Hong Kong’s European restaurant is speeding to a whole new level of gastronomic excellence

Whisk at The Mira Hong Kong has undergone a remarkable transformation under the leadership of Culinary Director Sheldon Fonseca. With his extensive experience honed in Michelin-starred kitchens of London and Gaia and La Petite Maison in Hong Kong, the chef has brought his culinary expertise and passion for sustainability to elevate Whisk’s dining experience. The cuisine is firmly modern European, and from the moment you step into the restaurant’s warm, elegant atmosphere, it’s clear that an exceptional culinary journey awaits.

Sustainability is at the heart of Whisk’s culinary approach. Chef Fonseca has carefully curated a menu that highlights consciously sourced seafood, artisanal meats and locally grown produce. The restaurant’s partnership with the Sustainable Restaurant Association has earned it the highest 3-star rating, reflecting the team’s unwavering dedication to responsible sourcing and environmentally conscious practices. Much of its seafood, including lobster, shrimp and tuna, are MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) certified as sustainable.

Sweetly flavoured ama ebi, complemented by zesty notes of Japanese fruit tomato, finger lime and sea grapes, is a delightful starter that whets the appetite. Likewise, white tuna tartare, a delicate dish elevated by the luxurious touch of Kaviari oscietra caviar and the earthy, slightly floral notes of smoked eggplant.

A standout main that exemplifies Whisk’s commitment to sustainability is Boston lobster tail, cooked to perfection and served with a light yet creamy shellfish emulsion. For a true taste of the South China Sea, crispy amadai with local fish bouillabaisse and saffron rouille showcases the chef’s skill in crafting a light yet intensely flavoured dish.

Turning to the land, the menu proudly showcases artisanal meats from renowned producers. Westholme wagyu beef tenderloin, served with golden brown, buttery potato fondant, glazed shallots and a rich red wine sauce, is a deceptively simple yet exceptionally flavourful dish. Boucheries Nivernaises pork loin, with pork cheek, morcilla and a spiced pork sauce, is a testament to the restaurant’s commitment to sourcing the finest quality ingredients.

For a truly unique dining experience, plump for tea- smoked Cerizay pigeons, featuring tender pigeon from a small atelier in France. The bird is expertly smoked with lapsang souchong tea leaves and served with black garlic, turnip and potato purée.

Whisk’s culinary team has also created a must-try signature dish in the form of whole roasted yellow chicken for two. Stuffed with truffle and mushroom between the skin and the meat, this locally sourced three-yellow chicken is a delightful celebration of Hong Kong’s culinary heritage, elevated with the addition of Australian black truffle and served with Japanese genmai 10-grain rice and smoked chicken sauce.

The extensive wine list, recipient of Wine Spectator magazine’s Best of Award of Excellence, offers an impressive selection of contemporary and fine old-world wines, as well as biodynamic and organic choices, ensuring the perfect pairing for every course.

“Maintaining a stable and professionally fulfilled team, ensuring regular menu rotations with more unique ingredients, growing our guest base in a sustainable way that allows us to focus on continuously improving the flavours and surprising Hong Kong foodies with affordable, high-quality dining which you do not have to cross the border to enjoy – these are some of the things I’d like to put down on the list of goals,” shares Chef Fonsesca.

He also stresses the many advantages of developing sustainable business practices: “They enhance employee productivity, reduce cost and can result in increased profits. To make the sustainability initiatives successful, it takes dedication from senior management down to rank-and-file employees to embrace it fully. Its my role to set an example and nurture that spirit among the team through continuous training and education, to create a win-win for our guests, our shareholders and employees, while keeping the environment in the big picture.”

Whisk, 5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

Photos: Whisk – The Mira Hong Kong Video: Jack Fontanilla

Salt Shaker: Under Ricardo Chaneton, The Upper House’s Salisterra exudes a richer, more elevated Mediterranean high

Nestled high within the sophisticated environs of The Upper House Hotel in Pacific Place, Salisterra flies diners to the heart of the Mediterranean. Now guided by the skilled hand of Chef Ricardo Chaneton, the restaurant’s refreshed menu is a spirited testament to the rich diversity and abundant seasonal bounty of the sun-kissed region.

Since opening in 2021, Salisterra has been rooted in the vital soul of the Mediterranean, seamlessly blending contemporary flair with authentic, time-honoured flavours. Named for the salt of the earth, it has now upped its gastronomic game, drawing inspiration from the energetic Venezuelan, his European ancestry and extensive fine-dining experience at three-starred hotspots on the southern Spanish and French coasts.

“The refreshed Salisterra menu is a vibrant tribute to Mediterranean cuisine, inspired by my Italian heritage and the flavours I discovered during my time in Dénia, Spain, and the Côte d’Azur, France,” explains the celebrated chef. “Through the modern interpretation of classic dishes, I aim to express the true essence of the Mediterranean, where every meal is a harmonious blend of traditional, fresh and familiar flavours.”

And vibrant it certainly is. The new summer a la carte menu abounds with bold, contemporary dishes that showcase the rich diversity of the region. Among the appetisers, Octopus is an animated, refreshing creation, rubbed in Greek herbs, slow-cooked until tender then paired with the sweet-tart notes of pomegranate, orange and basil.

Another standout is Meloso Rice, a Spanish-inspired creamy rice dish that brings the umami richness of morels and fava beans to the fore. “This is one of our signature items, reflecting my passion for Mediterranean cuisine and the depth of flavours that can be achieved with traditional cooking techniques,” says Chaneton.

The collaboration between the Michelin-starred chef of Mono fame and The Upper House culinary team has been instrumental in reshaping the Salisterra dining experience. In his role as culinary advisor, Chaneton works closely with the in-house chefs to express this elevated concept, crafting a menu that truly celebrates the Mediterranean, with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients that deliver authenticity.

The response has been overwhelmingly positive. Regulars have praised the consistent quality and attention to detail that goes into each dish, as well as the fresh, vibrant flavours that seal Salisterra’s reputation as a standout culinary destination. Looking ahead, diners can expect the menu to continue evolving with the seasons of the Mediterranean and exemplifying the best of the region’s offerings.

“The menu changes every few months to reflect the seasonality of the ingredients,” shares the chef. “We also have some exciting culinary events planned for later this year, so guests can look forward to experiencing the spirit of the Mediterranean in new and innovative ways.”

Beyond the food, the Salisterra experience is designed to capture the essence of the Mediterranean, with an atmosphere that exudes warmth, generosity, and a sense of opulent plentitude. “Guests can expect to feel the same hospitality and convivial spirit that is so integral to the Mediterranean way of life,” he enthuses. “The tables are filled with an abundance of dishes made with fresh, seasonal ingredients that reflect the vast and diverse landscape of the region.”

Within the broader strokes of Hong Kong gastronomy, Salisterra stands tall as a unique and captivating dining destination – and not just for its perch above Pacific Place and magnificent sunset views. “Hong Kong is renowned for its eclectic dining scene, and Salisterra brings a modern, seasonal, Mediterranean concept to the city’s diverse culinary landscape,” says Chaneton. “It’s the perfect combination of casual charm and refined sophistication, providing guests with an approachable yet luxurious dining experience that celebrates the rich cultural heritage of the Mediterranean.”

Salisterra, Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong

Photos: Salisterra – The Upper House Hong Kong Video: Jack Fontanilla

Carna Lore: Beef brilliance and reverence shine equally at Carna by Dario Cecchini, the famed butcher of Tuscany

Nose-to-tail dining could hardly be more sophisticated than at Carna by Dario Cecchini in Mondrian Hong Kong, where the Tuscan master butcher – lauded as the world’s greatest – has joined forces with fast-rising chef Daniele Milliani in a renaissance-style sanctuary conceived by renowned interior designer Joyce Wang. Astounding views of Hong Kong’s harbour and skyline from the 39th floor of the hotel located in the heart of buzzing Tsim Sha Tsui adds to the sense of occasion.

Carna by Dario Cecchini is poised to become Hong Kong’s hot table nonpareil; it is the first Carna in Asia, joining sister restaurants in Dubai and the Bahamas. The name signals a feast of meat, and during an exclusive chef’s table tasting experience, culinary theatre is duly conjured from a variety of premium beef cuts and the butchery tradition of using every single scrap to great effect.

“The meats served at Carna are sourced from carefully selected farms and purveyors known for their commitment to quality and sustainability,” explains Senior Sous Chef Billy Yau. “We work closely with these suppliers to ensure the animals are raised using ethical and humane practices.”

Most of the beef undergoes an extensive dry-ageing process in Carna’s specialised temperature and humidity-controlled ageing room. This process takes between 45 and 60 days, during which time the enzymes in the meat naturally break down the connective tissues, concentrating the flavours and tenderising the texture to create the signature deep, rich taste and melt-in-your-mouth quality of Carna’s meats.

The chef’s table experience is an exceptional opportunity to witness culinary mastery firsthand. One highlight is the tableside preparation of a sublime beef tartare, where the chef expertly hand-chops the lean, flavourful meat and combines it with a simple yet impactful marinade of garlic, paprika, lemon, chilli, Chianti salt and olive oil. The result is a pure and explosive taste that coats the palate with a deep, salty, meaty savour and a subtle kick of heat.

“Carna is a butcher’s project, shifting away from the classic steakhouse concept toward the idea of a ‘whole-cow house’,” says Chef Yau. “The spirit here is to make the animal’s sacrifice more respectful and sustainable by embracing the idea that there is no ‘best cut’ – rather, every part of the animal, if prepared with care and expertise, can be equally delicious.”

To bring this philosophy to life, the menu offers an extensive selection of 18 different beef cuts, from classic options like tongue and beef shank to more unique and lesser-known cuts like the Etruscan (from the cow’s forequarter) and the tail. Each is treated with the utmost attention, showcasing how every element of the animal can shine when handled with the proper techniques and reverence.

This holistic approach not only elevates the dining experience but also reflects Carna’s commitment to sustainability. By embracing the entire cow, the restaurant aims to make the most of each animal and minimise waste, ensuring a more responsible and environmentally-conscious approach to sourcing and serving premium beef.

Alternatives to all this meat can be found in ‘The Garden’ section of the menu, as well as seafood mains like Italian sea bass with capers, garlic, Taggiasche olives and anchovies and tagliolini with calamari spillo, mussel, potato foam and roasted bell pepper coulis.

To complement the premium beef-focused menu, Carna offers an impressive selection of wines, with a focus on the top Tuscan pour of Chianti Classico, including Fontodi Chianti Classico and Molino di Grace Chianti Classico from Panzan, Cecchini’s hilltop hometown.

Just as the ‘whole-cow house’ philosophy ensures no part of the animal goes to waste, leftover ingredients from cooking are repurposed to craft specialty cocktails in a further celebration of sustainability. With its reverence for the animal, commitment to sustainability and culinary excellence, Carna by Dario Cecchini is poised to become a must-visit destination for foodies and a new benchmark for sophisticated nose-to-tail dining in Asia.

Carna by Dario Cecchini, 39/F, Mondrian Hong Kong, 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Photos: Carna by Dario Cecchini Video: Jack Fontanilla

Cabinet Of Curiosities: The Regent’s Qura Bar is a sensory odyssey blending rare spirits, French plates and mesmerising views

Qura Bar, which opened at the Regent Hong Kong Hotel earlier this year, has the power to win anyone over, even if they are stone-cold unromantic types. First of all, it is located in one of the city’s most iconic buildings which offers framed views of dazzling Victoria Harbour; inside a sumptuous construction is packed with vintage elements, wall-to-wall murals and opulently cosy booths. It becomes packed during peak hours, given the buzz and repute it has already garnered, yet offers solitude to anyone who steps within.

Second, Chef Rajiv Chowdhoory, is simply a culinary genius. “Much like ‘The Curator’ who has inspired the creation of Qura Bar, I too am a ‘curator’ of all things culinary,” says Chowdhoory. “I create a range of elegant and flavourful dishes which pair beautifully with our curated selection of rare spirits and exquisite wines to reflect the spirit of global culinary exploration. The cuisine is ‘approachable gastronomy’ with influences from French cuisine.”

Every food lover worth their salt will have heard whispers of Qura’s outstanding French-inspired small plates, beautifully conceived cocktails and toe-tappingly vibey atmosphere. Everything is designed for sharing, a format handy for keeping the conversation flowing.

To start, Niçoise salad, pâté en croûte and baby lamb shoulder ‘Aveyron’ are placed on our table. The Bites menu features lamb kofta kebab, inspired by the freshest seasonal ingredients, spices and flavours from around the world. In addition, elevated comfort food like lobster linguini and black truffle porcini risotto, along with reinvented classics such as beef tartar, are sure to both impress and indulge any cravings.

The ‘Catch of the Day’ – think sole meunière or seared sea bass Grenobloise – is sourced from various international waters. Pan-seared foie gras and marinated bell peppers, as well as varieties of oysters and caviar, are all designed to pair beautifully with precious pours from the beverage menu.

Browsing the vast list reveals an impressive selection of Rare & Vintage Spirits that have been carefully chosen from around the world. Uniting Nations #3 The Essence of Karuizawa, a unique 40-year-old fusion of Japanese and Scottish whisky traditions, and the historic Ferrand Distilled Before 1914, providing a taste of pre-First World War Cognac craft, are noteworthy highlights. In addition to these gems, The Character of Islay Whisky Company’s Fiona Macleod 33-year-old is a masterpiece, a monument to the mystery of the Scottish island with its deep, peat-smoked flavour.

Jose Arechabala Ron Blanco Arecha Extra white rum, a rare collector’s item from the 1960s, embodies the golden era of Cuban rum-making. Rum from Barbados has a long history, which is encapsulated in the 16-year-old single-blended Foursquare Shibboleth. Finally, Collector Gin #001, a collaboration with Hong Kong’s N.I.P Gin, is a testament to global exploration. These rare spirits are not just beverages but stories captured in bottles, brought from the farthest corners of the world to the heart of Hong Kong.

“Everything has to come with a little bit of soul, a little bit of history, and it truly is what we want to share – not just the quality of the product, but the story that comes with it,” says Xavier Schaeffer, Qura’s Director of Operations.

Bar Manager Gennaro Pucci creates a cocktail experience that reflects the search for rare and vintage spirits. He says: “All drinks, whether traditional or inventive, narrate a tale of world exploration.”

Once recovered from an alcoholic kick, take in Qura’s sensual dark yet playful Art-Deco surroundings, designed by Bar Studio. Each area of the interlinked drawing room, bar, dining lounge and cigar room is adorned with bursts of colour, texture and intriguing objets d’art – from a whimsical emerald-green parrot lamp to quirky table lamps with monkeys holding parasols and gilded monkey pirate sconces. Large vintage photos from the days of the original Regent hotel recall the rich heritage of this exclusive venue. Qura Bar is one of the most atmospheric arrivals to have graced Hong Kong in a long time.

Photos: Qura Bar Video: Jack Fontanilla

Ankoma Chameleon: Intimate bistro meets refined izakaya at the fine-dining counter manned by local chef Frankie Wong

Exceptional chefs are like chameleons. They may be acknowledged for their mastery of a certain dish or their own cooking style, but what really distinguishes them from their contemporaries is their capacity to transfer and modify their refined method from one culinary endeavour to the next. A range of vast and varied experiences is also often necessary, as well as humility, patience and innate talent. Such is the case for Hong Kong’s very own culinary rising star, Chef Frankie Wong, who is making a breakthrough performance via Ankôma.

“My inspiration comes from all channels – sometimes it is through suppliers explaining ingredients, or me casually browsing on Instagram, and sometimes in my dreams!” laughs Wong of his French-Japanese cuisine. “Each creation goes through much trial and error and many versions.”

A juxtaposition if ever there was one, the fact that fine-dining haven Ankôma is located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui’s bustle has amplified just how versatile Wong is and has pronounced the range in his unrestrained perspective. Unlike the busy scenes on the streets below, the fifth-floor restaurant’s eight-seat marble counter, elegantly set with linen napkins, handsome wine glasses and no-fuss flatware, looks into a modern kitchen of the latest chef’s toys and gadgets. The scene is complemented by Wong’s fabulous talent and a menu focusing on local ingredients.

“Fine dining usually has an image of being very proper, not very commonly accessible and can be quite intimidating for some guests,” says the chef. “In Ankôma, guests can enjoy fine-dining-quality dishes but in a casual environment, like a bistro or izakaya. For those who frequent fine-dining restaurants, it can be a change of scene, a different and refreshing experience from what they are used to.”

Each plate is easy on the eye and tasty on the palate. As Wong personally explains each dish – an essential component of the Ankôma experience – diners will discover that the restraint and simplicity which appear to be the defining characteristics of his cuisine may be more colourful and complex than they first thought.

Our tasting parade begins with zuwaigani, a snow crab tartlet with sherry vinegar sheet and battera kombu floss. The unagi course showcases smoked eel with foie-gras mousse on brioche French toast, while saba, a fatty mackerel cured with apple cider vinegar, kombu and mirin, is complemented by a zesty green apple and jellyfish salad, finished with a kick of wasabi emulsion.

The seasonal hokkigai, a lightly torched surf clam with homemade fish cake, is accompanied by ratatouille consommé, chipolata sausage and coriander. The scallop dish consisting of a buttery pan-fried Hokkaido scallop paired with a cool French bean purée, eggplant purée and vadouvan sauce is the chef’s French take on Indian masala.

The standout dish comes in the form of a roasted piece of the most tender three yellow chicken. Inspired by his Hong Kong upbringing, the local poultry is artistically served with bannonegi (scallion), ikura (salmon roe), creamy vin jaune (yellow wine) sauce and Hokkaido Nanatsuboshi rice.

Other revelations of this tasting menu include how well angel hair pasta pairs with wakame, shiso blossoms and caviar when it has been flavoured with white truffle paste. The next dish presents butter-aged lobster tails cooked over lava stones and topped with daikon oden (simmered radish stew), handmade chilli oil and a sauce of sakura-ebi (shrimp) and kabocha (winter squash).

The dessert of pistachio almond crunch, ganache, mochi and ice cream, as well as offerings of seasonal fruit, make the perfect ending to this sumptuous dinner.

Ankôma’s tasteful contemporary French-Japanese approach proves that striking a balance between revolutionising traditional cuisine and creating an inviting restaurant is a worthwhile pursuit. A collaboration among generations helps heaps, but it’s a collective passion for serving a unique, delicious experience that lights the match.

Ankoma, 5/F, Kam Lung Commercial Centre, 2 Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

Photos: Ankoma Video: Jack Fontanilla

Don Appétit: Savouring the flavours of celebrated chef Donovan Cooke’s life’s work

In the realm of gastronomy, there are chefs, and then there are culinary storytellers – those who, through their craft, weave together the flavours of their past, their journeys and their passion. Veteran chef Donovan Cooke, the creative genius behind the culinary magic at his new venture, Causeway Bay-based Donovan, is undoubtedly one such storyteller. His modern European menu has quickly captured the attention of the city’s foodies, making it a must-go-to restaurant for anybody looking for great food in the bustling heart of Hong Kong.

“The inspiration for the restaurant is basically being here in Hong Kong. I’m in the middle of the world with some of the best ingredients from around the world, and I have an opportunity to use and showcase the best of the ingredients following the seasons – and not so much following the seasons,” the chef laughs as he explains his ethos. “However, we are trying to maintain sustainability, and at the same time evolve classical combinations – which I’ve been doing for 40 years – in a more modern way.”

The roving Briton has been an instrumental figurehead in the fine- dining scene of wherever he has landed. At a young age, he was seasoned and nurtured in traditional French cuisine by the legendary, then-two-Michelin-starred Marco Pierre White at Harveys in London.

Embarking on his curious global journey, he headed first to France and then Australia, where his footprint was recognised by multiple accolades. Melbourne newspaper The Age’s Good Food Guide named him Chef of the Year in 2003 and 2004. He also made appearances on the reality TV show MasterChef Australia and co-authored the award-winning cookbook, Marriages. His dedication to innovation and new culinary excellence then won the hearts of local socialites and celebrities during a six-year stint at the helm of Derby Restaurant and Bar at the Hong Kong Jockey Club.

With each step, he absorbed new techniques, flavours and inspirations, enriching his culinary palate and ultimately bringing him to a Hong Kong homecoming late last year. His self-titled restaurant artfully combines his own heritage with a global perspective – a testament to his eclectic journey, offering diners an experience that transcends borders.

“I want to showcase a vast array of dishes here in my new restaurant, and the best way to do that is to do a Japanese-style tasting menu,” he says. “It’s a journey of eight to 10-12 courses, starting with refreshing light and then moving on to a richer main course. In the past, when I did à la carte, people just go for the things that they’re safe or that they know, so I decided to do it omakase-style because I want people to taste lots of different things that they normally wouldn’t order.”

The dinner-tasting menu at the time of our review kicks off with an artistic ensemble of appetisers such as truffle macaron; parmesan tart with onions and flowers; chicken liver parfait, apple and prune; and the house signature soy-sauce brioche. These are followed by seared tuna belly decorated with spiced tartare, celeriac, truffle dashi and shiso; and the heady combination of the spiced roasted blue lobster with foie gras, fig, port wine, chocolate and coffee.

One of his standout dishes is smoked olive oil confit salmon, seasoned with leek, razor clam, bone broth, salmon roe and chive oil. It’s a culinary masterpiece that captures the essence of Chef Donovan on a plate.

A meat lover’s dream comes in the form of Pyrenees milk-fed baby lamb with girolles, gnocchi and thyme jus, and the cooked to a mouth-watering medium-rare, pepper-crusted wagyu 9+ sirloin atop onions, bone marrow and Bordelaise sauce.

Desserts of spiced roasted pineapple with pain d’épices ice cream and tonka bean panna cotta with rhubarb, honeycomb and Stone’s ginger wine jelly form a perfect palate cleanser to this savoury culinary adventure.

Amid the elegant ambience and the warm embrace of European hospitality, Donovan is a testament to the power of roots, the influence of loved ones and the fusion of global experiences into tantalising dishes that have earned the well-travelled chef countless plaudits for his unparalleled contributions to gastronomy.

Donovan, 16/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

Photos: DONOVAN Video: Jack Fontanilla

Asian Persuasion: Topped only by the harbour view, Cruise steers diners through a modern melting pot of cuisines

Those who have found themselves caught between two or more worlds know that matters of identity are never easy to explain. However, at Cruise Restaurant & Bar perched on the North Point waterfront it is all pretty straightforward. For both local foodies and astute tourists, this gorgeous location with a large outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Victoria Harbour puts a novel twist on rooftop dining. Chef de Cuisine Adisak Choksamritphon envisions the restaurant as a workshop or “studio” where various Asian cuisines can be explored and enjoyed in an upscale, modern setting.

Fun, unique and never one to take itself too seriously, Cruise has an independent attitude and upbeat music after dark. During the day, it is relaxed and informal. Delicious modern Asian food, inventive cocktails and breathtaking views provide the ideal environment for mingling.

“The idea of Cruise came about because of our location overlooking the city’s iconic harbour, which has historically been a key ‘lifeline’ in connecting local cultures and global communities,” explains Chef Choksamritphon. “In this regard, our food offers a modern and flavourful take on Asian cuisine to celebrate the diversity and cosmopolitan nature of Hong Kong’s foodie scene.”

Asian cuisine has far deeper roots than one may think, with influences from cultures all around the world. As presented here, it is consistently flavourful, sophisticated and tells the tale of at least a thousand distinct towns as well as a thousand more forgotten traditions. A native of Thailand but calling Hong Kong his second home for more than two decades, Chef Choksamritphon is best known for his contemporary takes on classics. In developing the Cruise menu, he made some adjustments to favourite recipes in order to suit local tastes. He achieves this by playing with sourness and saltiness, and fully honing in on his Thai roots.

He assures: “We are guided by Hyatt’s ‘Food; Thoughtfully-sourced. Carefully served’ philosophy, and do our best to practice ethical sourcing, using organic and sustainable ingredients wherever possible. I also like to think of our approach as being similar to home cooking – I aim to use items that are of the best quality, and use only natural ingredients, like spices, to enhance the flavours of my dishes.”

Creating dishes packed with flavour, executed with flair and served with a generous dose of spice, he offers carb-loaded comfort food – a pick-me-up to enjoy when having a bad day, or to fill you up while and after drinking. Enter the ‘Sharing is Caring’ section of the à la carte menu. On a huge hot plate, Westholme M4/M5 Australian wagyu Tomahawk steak rests on a bed of sizzling gochujang butter with dipping sauces and okra tempura on the side.

In a similar vein, grilled M6 Striploin comes with shishito peppers, green chilli salsa and yakiniku dipping sauce. Another crowd favourite for sharing is chilli lobster Singapore-style, incorporating tomato, chilli, ginger and egg. The homemade roti makes a good sauce scraper, ensuring each smattering of spice is appreciated and devoured.

For those favouring milder spice infusions, wok- fried sea bass makes a perfect choice. Green mango, Thai basil and tamarind help to elevate and balance the crispness of the fleshy fried fish.

“We always have special menus and events at Cruise, so guests can come any day of the week and have a great time,” enthuses the chef. “We have promotions like Lobster Night on Wednesdays and Tomahawk Night on Thursdays, and have just launched a new Hot Pot Night on Tuesdays. We also regularly bring in special guest chefs and mixologists for pop-ups.”

As a city built by immigrants, Hong Kong is ultimately a major hub for cultural diversity, and its cuisine followed suit. In that way, it shares a similar profile to the divine melting pot that is Cruise – sailing grandly through the multicultural hustle and bustle that marks the city’s eclectic dining scene.

Cruise, 23/F, Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour Hong Kong, North Point bit.ly/cruiserestaurantandbar

Photos: Cruise Restaurant & Bar Video: Jack Fontanilla

Hummus Hurrah: A home away from Beirut, Maison Libanaise brings epicurean joy to the heart of Hong Kong

The hubbub of laughter and feasting echoes against wood- block and salmon-pink painted walls and zellige tiles. Fine, dainty lamps suspended from the ceiling and no-fuss green wooden stools at the bar, while doing little to absorb the thrum, add lustre. Just these elements alone conjure an inviting haven for a long, slow nightcap after a long, frantic day.

Occupying a three-storey walk-up in the bustling SoHo district of Central, Maison Libanaise stands as a culinary oasis, offering a captivating escape to the vibrant flavours and rich traditions of Lebanon. With its warm ambience, friendly service and an extensive menu that showcases the best of the country’s cuisine, it has become a go-to destination for food enthusiasts seeking an authentic Middle Eastern experience – transporting diners to the streets of Beirut, or as Chef Teya Mikhael would have it, her childhood memory lane.

“My recipes are very home-inspired rather than restaurant-inspired,” she says. “We try to provide a real home experience. It’s a female-dominant kitchen, just like it is back home. It’s all mothers and ladies who give out dishes with so much love and so much beauty.” The exuberant chef bursts into laughter: “But I am not a mom – yet!”

Stepping inside Maison Libanaise is to be greeted by an inviting, cosy atmosphere, reminiscent of a traditional Lebanese home. It makes for an intimate experience – though perhaps a little too snug at times, depending on the size of the dining crowd. Just as personal is the service. Chef Mikhael chats to diners like she would to friends, sharing her personal recommendations from the drinks list which runs from Middle Eastern-inspired contemporary cocktails to largely familiar and beautiful wines.

“Lebanon has a really big wine scene with over 60 to 70 wineries’” she says. “Here, we have the biggest Lebanese wine list, which we really try to emphasise. The Lebanese way is best spent with wine in hand, over long and leisurely meals shared with friends and family. It’s so ingrained in me that I try to sneak a couple of bottles home whenever I can,” she adds, with a cheeky wink.

But what has seen the restaurant boom is the food – with guests returning many times to explore the broad menu designed around a charcoal and wood grill. Spices are sourced directly from Lebanon, with sumac, in particular, standing out. Enhancing the natural flavours of the food it is cooked with, deep- red sumac features in almost every dish in this vibrant restaurant. There are specific seasons for sumac berries and the tart, acidic spice is prepared and used in the traditional way. Like pomegranate molasses, which the culinary team also applies liberally, it is at the heart of Lebanese cuisine.

The new a la carte menu is inspired by dishes the chef made with her mother and grandmother when she was growing up. Each dish is an edible memoir of cherished recipes from her childhood in Lebanon, carefully curated and reimagined from her unique perspective. Exhibit A: Sujuk Bel Banadoura, a symphony of spicy, tangy and sweet notes showcasing grilled beef sausages with matbucha (Moroccan tomato salad) and pomegranate molasses.

Another crowd favourite, Hummus Araydis is a testament to the chef’s creative spirit, marrying her love for hummus with the fond memories of prawns she orders at her favourite beachside haunt. In this dish, the creamy chickpea purée dances with chives, coriander, lemon and chilli, and is crowned with prawns sautéed in Aleppo chilli oil.

Of course, Lebanese cuisine is entirely about the shared table, a balance of flavours and dishes, and the moment of bringing people together. The Mashewe Mshakal platter does just that, embracing beef kafta, beef skewers, shish taouk (chicken kebab), lamb chops and vegetable skewers accompanied with hearth-baked pita bread, sumac-roasted tomato, grilled onion and the holy trinity of harissa, toum and tahini (red chilli-, garlic- and sesame-based relishes) for dipping.

Maison Libanaise is all about celebration, food and fun, and as home to three layers of indoor and outdoor drinking and dining salons, the merry hubbub will only intensify.

Maison Libanaise, 10 Shelley Street, SoHo, Central. Tel: 2111 2284. maisonlibanaise.com.hk

Photos: Maison Libanaise Video: Jack Fontanilla