Truly special: Johnnie Walker Blue Label X Arcane four-hands dinner

With only one in 10,000 casks having the elusive quality, character and flavour to deliver the signature taste of Johnnie Walker Blue Label, they are the undisputed leaders in blended Scotch whisky. But Johnnie Walker Blue Label continues to push the envelope in the Scotch whisky world with the release of the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare Glenury Royal, the third in the series of special releases crafted using whiskies from ‘lost’ distilleries of Scotland that have shut doors years ago.

To celebrate the momentous occasion, the maison collaborated with Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant Arcane for one night only to curate a special four-hands dinner by chefs Shane Osborn and Mark Best, the very-same duo that cooked their way to the finals on Netflix reality show, The Final Table. Over the course of this exclusive dinner, the chefs created dishes that paired perfectly with such rare gems as the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare Glenury Royal and the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare Port Ellen.

Elevating epicureanism with concise, creative cuisine at SKYE GastroBar

Though primarily thought to be catering to business travellers, The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel, is so much more. Located in what is arguably the busiest district in the city – Causeway Bay – while overlooking the tranquil Victoria Harbour, it’s not only one of the oldest hotels in Hong Kong, but also one that constantly looks to revamp itself by blurring the lines between work and play, all with a firm emphasis on art, cuisine and well-being.

In keeping with this philosophy and to celebrate its 45th anniversary, the hotel has just opened the doors of its brand-new 49-seater lounge, SKYE GastroBar, helmed by British chef Lee Adams, to complement the hotel’s already-popular SKYE Roofbar and Dining eatery.

SKYE GastroBar's interiors

As a casually refined lounge experience atop the 27th floor, SKYE GastroBar’s menu is concise yet creative. Tipping his hat to local produce, and sustainable seafood and meats, Head Chef Adams wholeheartedly embraces the hugely-popular ‘farm to table’ approach, serving refined French fare with fresh, rustic flavours. It’s a job he’s more than equipped to handle. Having helmed SKYE’s kitchen for three years now, Chef Adams has indeed learnt from the best, working under celebrity TV chef Gary Rhodes and Michelin-starred chef Paul Welburn before coming into his own as Chef de Cuisine at such prestigious establishments as the Rhodes W1 restaurant at the posh Grosvenor House Hotel in Dubai.

At SKYE GastroBar, his approach is, however, calculatedly relaxed. Explaining his culinary vision for the rooftop noshery, Adams says: “We wanted to create simple yet memorable bites in a casual, relaxing setting. It’s a shame to play around too much with produce that’s so delicious on its own. We wished to explore and highlight the simplicity of the flavours instead.”

Seared Australian Mb8+ Wagyu Beef Nigiri
Seared Australian Mb8+ Wagyu Beef Nigiri

As promised, that’s exactly what he’s done, as we found out over the course of our sumptuous tasting. First up were Half Dozen Raw French Coastal Oysters. Served with fresh lime on a bed of ice, their raw marine saltiness set the tone for the rest of the evening. It was the next dish, “Drunken Chicken” Terrine, however, that truly showcases the depth of the chef’s indubitable skills. Taking inspiration from the popular Chinese dish of drunken chicken, Chef Adams transforms it into a terrine, a British delicacy. What results is a delicate French black chicken leg poached in Shaoxing rice wine, yellow wine and chicken stock, compressed with leek and baby corn. The rather mild taste of the meat is aptly contrasted by pickles and local vegetables, that inject a freshness to the dish. It’s the chicken skin, however, sprinkled on top like a crumble, that ties the dish together with an unexpected crispy finish.

Local and Organic Heirloom Tomatoes, Smoked Burrata Cheese
Local and Organic Heirloom Tomatoes, Smoked Burrata Cheese

A sumptuous sequel followed in the form of the Seared Australian Mb8+ Wagyu Beef Nigiri. With the beef soaked in a sweet ponzu sauce, before being blow-torched for a smoky finish, it’s left to the horseradish and black pepper to add an extra punch to the dish, all coalescing into a satisfying whole, thanks to an amalgamated explosion of toasty, hot, sweet, fatty and umami flavours.

Next up was one of the most popular dishes at SKYE GastroBar – the Local and Organic Heirloom Tomatoes, Smoked Burrata Cheese. A showstopper in both preparation and presentation, the burrata cheese comes encased in a glass lid, which lifts to release a shroud of smoke. Appearing almost magically underneath the vapours is a dollop of gleaming, white cheese with a mousse-like consistency, surrounded by three different types of tomatoes – heirloom tomatoes from Brittany, locally-sourced tomatoes and cherry tomatoes from the hotel’s own rooftop garden. Having been hung in a cheese fridge for two whole days, the cheese is suitably moist but never watery, with an all-pervading smokiness adding an extra culinary dimension. Equally palate-pleasing are the balsamic pearls served on the side, whose acidity counterpoints the creaminess of the cheese and the tangy-sweetness of the tomatoes.

Seared Foie Gras On Toast at SKYE GastroBar
Seared Foie Gras On Toast at SKYE GastroBar

With our appetites more piqued that ever, it was then time for the Seared Foie Gras On Toast to make an appearance. A winning combination of luxurious pan-seared French foie gras, glazed with duck jus and served on top of rye toast, it was a no-holds-barred, indulgent dish basking in its own creamy, savoury, decadent flavours. Simple in execution and rich in taste, it was the perfect culmination of all that SKYE GastroBar professes to serve on a plate – ingredients that speak for themselves, and speak loud and clear.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

SKYE GastroBar. 27/Fl, The Park Lane Hong Kong, a Pullman Hotel, 310 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay. (852) 2839 3327. www.parklane.com.hk/skye

Review: White Truffle Treats at Nicholini’s at Conrad Hong Kong

Chef Riccardo Catarsi has done it again. The Italian chef at Nicholini’s at Conrad Hong Kong is forever at ease while serving up exquisite dishes from his home country, as we experienced during our last tasting at the plush cuisinary. And he has recreated the same magic this time with the Seasonal White Truffle Menu.

Featuring premium white truffle harvested from Alba, Piedmont, chef Riccardo  has prepared a limited-time menu showcasing not only the versatility of his hero ingredient but also the depth and breadth of his culinary expertise. First up was the Uovo Organico, a wholesome dish of organic egg, cheese and white truffle, that was melt-in-the-mouth delicious.

The next item on the menu to catch our attention was the Fegato Grasso – a decadent combination of pan-fried foie gras, Jerusalem artichokes, sweet shallots and white truffle. With the rich creaminess of the goose liver matched ably by the earthy aroma of the fungus, it’s a dish that’s equal parts savoury and sumptuous. 

While the first two items had been about simply highlighting the inherent flavours of the ingredients, with the Ravioli di Astice, chef Riccardo chooses to highlight his extraordinary execution skills. Here, the homemade ravioli pasta, infused with parsley, is draped elegantly over succulent blue lobsters soaked in lobster broth with burrata cheese and is topped with white truffle, creating an explosion of sweet, savoury, creamy and earthy flavours in our mouth.

However, the highlight of the meal was surely the Vitella – Italian veal tenderloin, Brussels sprouts, finferli and morel mushrooms, Colonnata pork and white truffle. While veal is all about juicy tenderness, the Brussels sprouts add a refreshing crunchiness, with the whole thing tied together neatly by the addition of umami-rich mushrooms.

To finish off, traditional white chocolate, hazelnut and White Truffle Chocolate Parfait brings together the regional specialities of Piedmont in a sweet union.

The white truffle seasonal menu is served at Nicholini’s now until the end of the truffle season. Guests can order the dishes from the a la carte menu with a selection of Italian premium wines carefully curated by the restaurant sommelier to complement the fungus’ superior character.

Nicholini’s
Level 8, Conrad Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong
Tel: (852) 2822 8801
*Subject to 10% service charge

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Review: Head to Madame Fu for Instagram-friendly decor and drinks

Stepping into Madame Fu is like stepping back in time to a grand colonial era. Taking up the entire 8,000 sq.ft of the third floor of the Barracks block at Tai Kwun heritage centre, its long verandahs, cheerful lanterns, plush upholstery, velvet couches, private dining rooms all carefully recreate a slice of the bygone empire.

Madame Fu

With the restaurant separated into seven equally glamorous sections – the Instagrammable Pink Room, the Parisian Grand Cafe, the exclusive tasting room The Artist, the decadent Whisky Lounge, the private Library, the burlesque Fu Bar and the colourful Red & Blue Verandahs, what unifies the space is the unmistakable feeling of luxury that permeates through every nook and corner. Yet, thanks to the creative genius of designer Christian Rhomberg, nowhere does it feel like a stiff-upper-lipped formal space, instead, it is as good for a casual tête-à-tête as it is for a special occasion.

Madame Fu

While the decor has a European vibe to it, the menu however is distinctly Cantonese, putting a modern spin on traditional dishes.  First up was the dim sum platter, with crystal shrimp dumpling, mushroom and black truffle dumpling, char siu bao, and seafood and honey pea dumpling. While the char siu bao and seafood dumplings were more style than substance, the true highlight here was the mushroom and black truffle dumpling, with the rich aftertaste of the truffle lingering in the mouth long after the dumpling had been consumed.

Of the mains, the Iberico Char Siu was a near-perfect combination of sweet succulence and a slightly charred crunchy finish. Meanwhile, the wood ear mushrooms with chilli oil and Shanxi vinegar was quite mild in taste with a hint of umami flavours. Vegetarians may also like the evenly charred wok-tossed broccoli spears with garlic, while the carb lovers will surely find the egg fried wild rice with seasonal vegetables to be a go-to comfort food.  

But while the food at Madame Fu is sophisticated and contemporary, but never too experimental, it’s the drinks that took us by surprise with their innovation,  presentation and perfect balance of flavours. We would particularly recommend Good Fellas to whisky lovers and Madame Fox for sake loyalists. There’s also Madame Fu’s Mystery, with secret ingredients, that may appeal to those who want a dash of enigma along with their drink. We, for one, won’t sip and tell…

Madame Fu Grand Cafe Chinois, 3/F, Block Three, Tai Kwun, No. 10 Hollywood Road, Central, www.madamefu.com.hk

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Two Michelin-starred Ying Jee Club unveils sumptuous new tasting menu

Amid the hustle and bustle of Central’s busy streets comes a fine-dining Cantonese cuisinary that has elevated the city’s traditional fare to new heights. We are speaking, of course, of Ying Jee Club, the two Michelin-starred restaurant located on Connaught Road’s Nexxus Building. Part of the ZS Hospitality Group – which owns four other Central-set restaurants including Lee Lo Mei, Moi Moi and Sakana No Aji – it recently upped the epicurean stakes even further with the unveiling of an all-new seasonal tasting menu.

Two Michelin-starred Ying Jee Club interiors

Personally curated by Chef Siu Hin Chi, the culinary genius who has collected 15 Michelin stars in the past decade, the new tasting menu at Ying Jee Club serves up seven separate courses that each boast a unique flavour profile. Yet, when taken as a whole, the experience is nothing so much as an homage to the very best of Cantonese culinary traditions and ingredients.

The line-up opened with Chilled Sliced Sea Whelk with Jelly Fish and Caviar, Wok-fried Kagoshima A4 Wagyu Beef with Scallion and Soy Sauce. A two-part appetiser that blends succulent seafood morsels with heartier bites of melt-in-your-mouth beef, it deftly showcased Chef Siu’s ability to create dishes that are far greater than the sum of their parts.

Ying Jee Club new tasting menu 1

Then it was onto back-to-back lobster courses. First up was Baked Lobster with Cheese and Garlic, which sees baby lobsters baked in a heavenly garlicky concoction and topped with cheese. An umami bomb from start to finish, it served as a perfect counter point to the next dish – Steamed Whole Lobster with Egg White and “Hua Diao”. Here, subtlety was the name of the game, with the steamed egg custard and lobster bites enhanced and sweetened with the judicious use of hua diao, a traditional Chinese yellow wine.

To follow, and in a knowing nod to local appetites, was Braised South African Abalone with Pork Belly and Vegetable in Oyster Sauce. Once again, Chef Siu’s adept handling of his ingredients sees the tender pork belly and delicate abalone merge to form a superbly mouth-watering dish.

Ying Jee Club new tasting menu 2

Next to hove into view was Poached Fish Maw with Wolfberry in Chicken Broth, a deliciously wholesome dish that called nothing to mind so much as a childhood favourite reborn – albeit with a fine-dining twist – before the final savoury course arrived tableside: Fried Rice with Barbecue Pork, Roast Duck, Shrimp, Crispy Conpoy and Vegetables. Boasting an amalgam of flavours and textures that came together in a uniquely cohesive manner, this was Cantonese comfort food at its very finest.

To end proceedings on a truly sweet note, the beautifully presented Ying Jee Dessert was unveiled. From the flaky Lotus Seed Paste Puff and Glutinous Dumpling to the decadent Double Boiled Bird’s Nest with Almond Juice, it served as the perfect sampling platter to satiate the sweet tooth of even the most discerning diner.

Ying Jee Club new tasting menu wine pairing

The new seasonal tasting menu at Ying Jee Club is priced at HK$1,980 per person. Oenophiles can also opt for the wine pairing menu for an additional HK$600 as well.

Ying Jee Club. Shop G05 G/Fl & Shops 107~108, 1/Fl, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Rd Central.(852)2801 6882. www.yingjeeclub.hk

Peak Performance: Sumptuous steaks and stunning views at 37 Steakhouse & Bar

It’s an open secret that Hong Kong’s discerning epicureans are partial to a perfectly cooked steak or two. In fact, this very love of indulging in a choice cut of premium beef has spawned countless carnivorously-inclined eateries across the city. There is one newcomer to this particular fine-dining niche, however, that has risen – quite literally – above its competitors.

Set atop one of Hong Kong’s most iconic and stunning destinations, the Victoria Peak, this new meat-minded culinary concept comes courtesy of The Food Story, the hospitality group behind a slew of new dining destinations, including Causeway Bay-based Wagyu Vanne and Sensu by Gosango. Its latest offering comes in the form of 37 Steakhouse & Bar, a stunning 7,000sq.ft restaurant in the recently-refurbished Peak Galleria.

37 Steakhouse
Chef Ken Kwok

The second international outpost of the eponymous Roppongi hotspot in Tokyo, this latest iteration is ably helmed by Chef Ken Kwok, a 15-year veteran of the F&B industry who simultaneously acts as executive chef for the aforementioned eateries, and whose resume includes a stint as sous chef at two Michelin-starred Wagyu Takumi under renowned Japanese chef Mitsuru Konishi.

With his latest Peak-set cuisinary, Kwok’s mission statement is to “give Hongkongers a whole new perspective on steakhouse dining”. In line with this vision, 37 Steakhouse serves up a truly staggering array of prime beef options, ranging from USDA Prime Black Angus and Korean Hanwoo selections to Belgian Prime Beef. The menu’s true star turn, though, is undoubtedly the rare Hiyama Kuroge Wagyu. Lauded in Japan as one of the finest, most marbled beef brands, it is the first time this particular offering is being served outside its borders – a fact sure to attract discerning diners in search of unique culinary experiences.

37 Steakhouse interiors

However, to assume that steaks are the only focus here would be a gross disservice to the restaurant. Indeed, even a cursory glimpse of its drinks menu reveals a treasure trove of fine wines and premium sakes, including an impressive sampling of vintages from Sawaya Matsumoto, the renowned 230-year-old Japanese brewery. Keen emphasis has also been placed on its design, with its interiors – developed by award-winning Japanese architect Yasumichi Morita – featuring contemporary wood-dominant tones, replete with floor-to-ceiling windows that show off its picturesque views to perfection.

Italian Red Prawn Carpaccio

Returning to the food front, Kwok’s menu reveals a deftly balanced approach, with lighter seafood-fronted servings getting as much attention as its beef-centric offerings. Indeed, our own tasting experience began with the wafer-thin Italian Red Prawn Carpaccio. Succulent and fresh, the creaminess of the Sicilian red prawns was heightened by the added crunch of the fresh radishes and lettuce leaves adorning it.

Hand Cut Steak Tartare with Hollandaise

Next up was the Hand Cut Steak Tartare with Hollandaise, subtly sauced to highlight the palate-pleasing textures of the raw beef, which itself was a wellblended amalgam of the fattier chuck roll and leaner top blade. Enhancing its appeal even further was the side serving of a cheese crisp, topped with dollops of chopped raw onions, pickles and a heap of luxurious caviar. Each pairing offered a different note to every bite savoured.

Belgian Prime Beef Dry Aged Steak

Then the true crowd-pleasers arrived tableside – a series of the restaurant’s signature steaks, including a Belgian Prime Beef Dry Aged Steak striploin and the long-awaited Hiyama A5 Wagyu chuck roll. The former offered more condensed carnivorous textures, while the latter boasted marbled melt-in-the-mouth flavours. With each prime cut cooked to medium-rare perfection in a state-of-the-art Spanish Josper charcoal grill and further enhanced with a choice of five separate sauces, every meaty morsel was inhaled in short order.

37's Tiramisu

With our belts straining at the waist, we were hard-pressed to find space for the concluding dish that hoved into view. Thankfully finding that last bit of appetite, however, we then dug into the creamy goodness that was 37’s Tiramisu. Here, Chef Kwok once again showed his innate ability to manipulate traditional flavours with his own contemporary flair, with this deconstructed interpretation of the classic Italian dessert featuring mochi-like bites that gave this otherwise-creamy sweet dish a new dimension of mouth-feel.

Throughout our tasting, the chef impressed us with his impeccable understanding of just the right balance of flavours, allowing his key ingredients – be it seafood or steak – to shine brightest without fail. And that, in itself, is the essence of the enduring appeal of 37 Steakhouse & Bar.

37 Steakhouse & Bar. Shop 102-103, 1/Fl, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd, The Peak. (852) 2885 3320.

Avo-lutely Delicious: Beloved British Avobar opens in K11

In 2017, Australian millionaire Tim Gurner caused quite a stir when he suggested that millennials would be more financially secure if they could just stop spending their money on avocado brunches. Thankfully, Gurner’s advise was largely ignored, with countless new eateries featuring avocado-fronted fare continuing to crop up across the globe. The latest of these is British-based avocado restaurant Avobar, which has opened its doors in K11 Musea, making Hong Kong its first international outpost.

avobar

Indeed, there isn’t a dish on offer at Avobar that comes without the ridiculously popular and healthy green fruit, as patrons can choose from smashed, mashed, sliced and diced plates ranging from from pasta, burgers, desserts and even avo-infused cocktails. Liana Kazaryan, owner of Avobar spoke to us during our tasting, explaining that her team wasn’t merely trying to build up a restaurant, but a lifestyle of healthy and positive choices.

avobar

Undoubtedly our favourite dish of the day was the Avo Bun Burger, nestled a sweet potato and red lentils between the avocado bun slices. Despite its deliciousness, though, holding onto the burger proved difficult when even the slightest grasp from our fingers had the buns sliding awry. Meanwhile, the Hong Kong-exclusive dish Pasilla & Mushroom Risotto provided us with a more than generous helping of miso zuke cod, while the risotto below it was creamy and rich. When it came time for dessert, the Choc Avo Brownie a fitting end-note, though those with a strong sweet tooth may be left craving something a tad sweeter. Regardless, Avobar proferred some truly unique and delicious interpretations of avocado-inspired dishes, affording those seeking a healthier diet with plenty to choose from. 

Avobar, Shop B201, K11 MUSEA, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Text: Bailey Atkinson

The Chinese Library slays it this summer with five new Dao Yi dishes

In the hierarchy of culinary preparation, the art of cutting foodstuff is often granted a lower position, overshadowed by skills that are more obviously palate-pleasing, like cooking, garnishing, and so on. But the Tai Kwun-located The Chinese Library, a part of the acclaimed F&B company Aqua Restaurant Group, has brought this underdog in the kitchen pantheon to the forefront with five new dishes that celebrate Dao Yi – the art of the kitchen knife.

The humble kitchen knife may not appear to be the most versatile of utensils, but in the hands of Chef Junno of The Chinese Library, it becomes a creative tool, artfully slicing and carving some of the most delicate and intricate creations.

Dao Yi dishes
Chrysanthemum 1000-cut tofu that has inspired the Dao Yi dishes at The Chinese Library

The first demonstration of the chef’s technique that hoved tablewards was the Marinated geoduck & ‘Jade’ flower in sesame oil dressing – a delectable combination of meaty, umami-flavoured geoduck and crunchy celery. While the geoduck was, as anticipated, succulent and tender, it was the celery stalks, cut and presented like a green-hued flower that caught our attention. Thankfully, its flavours more than matched its presentation. Doused with sesame oil and sprinkled with Sichuan pepper, it was just the right amount of crunchy and savoury with the hotness of the pepper spicing things up even further.

Dao Yi dishes
Crystal melon dumpling with Kung Fu teapot chicken consommé

Next up was the Crystal melon dumpling with Kung Fu teapot chicken consommé. While the previous dish had piqued our appetite, this one proved to be completely nourishing. With Chef Junno artfully using melon slices as dumpling coating, with crab stuffing inside, it was feather-light both to taste and to consume, with the twice-distilled chicken consommé being aromatic enough to bind the whole dish together.    

Dao Yi dishes
Deep-fried whole mandarin fish

When the Deep-fried whole mandarin fish appeared at our table, we knew it was going to be something special – and it was. Skillfully deboned and cut to resemble a lion’s mane, we could wholly comprehend the sheer craftsmanship that had gone into making this dish. The fresh flavours of the fish also lived up to our expectations, with the sweet and sour pepper sauce adding an interesting counterpoint to the crispy fish fries. But as it’s meant for sharing, please only order this dish if you’re going in a group of three or more, or if you are feeling especially ravenous.

Sweetened double-boiled ‘birds nest’ with honeydew and melon

While the fish was really an exuberant explosion of flavours, the Sweetened double-boiled birds nest with honeydew and melon which was served as a dessert was as understated as can be. But here too, the chef’s skill was explicitly visible, with the honeydew being chopped finely to resemble a bird’s nest. We mixed it with red sugar and ginger sauces rendering it with a mildly sweet flavour that was perfect on the palate.

And that, we believe, is where Chef Junno’s true success lies. While he displays mastery over the knife, nowhere does it overshadow the flavours of the dishes themselves, which are heroes in their own right.

The Chinese Library, Police Headquarters Block 01, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road
T 2848 3088 | www.chineselibrary.com.hk

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

How Hong Kong’s love of afternoon tea stems from a bloody 19th-century conflict

What truly defines Hong Kong? As a clue, it’s not finance, food or even fashion. Indeed, if contemporary Hong Kong has been shaped by anything, it’s tea. Hongkongers, of course, love every manifestation of their favourite brew, be it the more homely street-side bubble variety or the posher five-star-hotel afternoon incarnation. This is perhaps a reflection of just how deep-rooted the city’s entanglement with tea actually is, with the (Brooke) bonds in question dating back several centuries.

Tea-ing off…

As with so many local traditions, it all started with the British, those quintessential lovers of all things tea. Surprisingly, while tea was a China-wide tipple some 2,000 years ago, it took the Brits a further 1,700 years to cotton on, with the Sceptred Isle not getting its first cuppa till the 17th century, courtesy of the East India Company (EIC), one of the world’s first true conglomerates. Quickly securing royal endorsement, Catherine of Braganza, the wife of King Charles II, championed its adoption by the aristocracy of the day, ensuring it was soon both a coveted and costly commodity.

As to how we get from a Stuart monarch’s preferred bevvy to the forming of a habit across Hong Kong, well, that’s again down to the EIC. Swift to realise the profit potential of the tea trade, it was soon buying up China’s surplus stocks by the barrel load. The sheer scale of this operation, however, soon led to a massive trade imbalance in China’s favour, with Britain having little on offer that mainlanders wished to acquire. In a bid to restore balance, the EIC began cultivating tea in India’s Darjeeling and Assam regions, with the superior flavours of these varieties soon ousting the China-grown alternative from the affections of the discerning English folk. This, though, didn’t suffice to stem the EIC’s commercial aspirations and it soon set about clandestinely importing India-sourced opium to China.

These illicit narcotics swiftly drained China’s national coffers, leading to the bloody Opium Wars. Ultimately defeated, China was then obliged to sign an agreement in 1842 ceding Hong Kong to the British Empire. And so it remained until 1997, when it finally returned to the motherland, bringing with it a ragbag of British legacies, including an insatiable love for tea.

afternoon tea

A time for tea

 One of the most pervasive of all such traditions is the enduring popularity of afternoon tea. Indeed, it would be a hardy Hongkonger who could decline a cuppa and sweet treats in the afternoon. In fact, this particular ritual has become so ubiquitous that the ceremonial serving of afternoon tea remains a staple of hotel hospitality across the city, with pretty much every establishment – from The Ritz-Carlton to The Rosewood –offering its own take. In fact, so fond are Hongkongers of this particular pre-handover hangover that queuing for seats at some of the more favoured venues begins up to an hour before afternoon tea is served. One particularly popular destination is The Peninsula, the city’s oldest hotel. Indeed, according to Florian Trento, the hotel’s group executive chef, it was this very hotel that hosted Hong Kong’s first-ever afternoon tea event. Says he: “After The Peninsula opened in 1928, its tea lounge quickly became the place to meet and be seen. While we’re not sure as to exactly when afternoon tea was first served here, we do know the hotel was offering it well before anyone else in Hong Kong.” Inevitably, its pioneering approach played a major role in establishing the hotel as the locale of choice for the glamorous high society of Hong Kong.

afternoon tea

Stirrings across Hong Kong…

 Over the ensuing decades, while the city has gone through a series of transformations, Hong Kong’s love of tea has persisted and, indeed, evolved. Today, it is not uncommon for leading interior designers, renowned lifestyle brands and eminent dessert chefs and chocolatiers to collaborate with upmarket hotels and restaurants to create new afternoon tea offerings.

Accordingly, The Ritz-Carlton recently collaborated with Italian haute couture brand Giuseppe Zanotti to concoct an exquisite afternoon tea offering to celebrate the marque’s FW19 collection. Similarly, the InterContinental Hong Kong worked with the French skincare brand Caudalie on the creation of its Anti-oxidant Afternoon Tea, which is available until the end of this month. Meanwhile, The Murray also hosted a pet-friendly afternoon tea set, Paws for Tea, especially for dog owners and their furry friends. While such innovations have a ready market, there are some true classics that are also keenly sought out. The Big Three here would have to be the Mandarin Oriental’s Opera Cake, the special blue flower tea available only at The Conrad and the Wedgewood speciality teas that come courtesy of The Langham Hong Kong. So, let’s tea off in style, we say!

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Photos: The InterContinental Hong Kong, The Murray, The Peninsula

Pirata Group ushers in 5th anniversary with month-long celebrations

Pirata Group – the F&B company behind such popular eateries like Pici and The Optimist –  has singlehandedly enhanced Hong Kong’s epicurean scene since it opened its first restaurant Pirata in 2014. Since then, founders Manuel Palacio and Christian Talpo have added one feather after another in their caps, adding 10 unique concepts and 15 restaurant venues over the years.

Pirata Group
Son-Phan menu at Madame Ching and TokyoLima

Now, as Pirata Group turns five, they are celebrating in a way that only they can – a month-long celebration  with six participating restaurants and three series of four-hands menus crafted by in-house chefs.

First up is the Son-Phan menu prepared by Son Pham of Madame Ching and Stephan Joubert of TokyoLima. Available till 5 September, it celebrates Asian flavours with such delicacies as the Duck – Honey – Duck, a familiar nourishing combination of ponzu honey duck breast, fresh ginger and soy pickled shallots. Also noteworthy is the Pork Neck Katsu – Japanese-style pork cutlets, here served with sweet tomato curry.

Pirata Group
Duck Honey Duck, a part of the Son-Phan menu

In case you miss the first round of celebration, worry not, because Pirata Group has other culinary crossovers lined up throughout the month. Next up is the Bik-Antoni menu, curated by Bikash Dewan of MEAT’s fame and The Optimist’s Antoni Bernabeau Roig. Another such promising four-hands menu comes courtesy of the Pra-Buki menu, spawned by the partnership between Prabir Banerjee of Chaiwala and Takeshi Suzuki of TMK. Bringing together two very different cuisines from India and Japan, the menu promises to be packed with unexpected spices and unique ingredients.

And, of course, party seekers and brunch lovers can also join the celebratory brunch at The Optimist on 22 September and can party into the wee hours at Chaiwala on 28 September. All in all, looks like an action-packed month for Pirata Group, and one which true gourmands wouldn’t miss for anything.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay