Review: Exquisitely-blended local ingredients are the true of heroes at Root

When it comes to nosheries that source the most exotic of ingredients from the furthest-flung points of the globe, Hong Kong is no slouch. Be it’s hand-reared halibut hover-crafted in from a niche Norwegian fjord or seldom-seen naturally Nepalese spices rickshawed down from the Himalayas, it’s sure to be writ large on the menu of one or another of the city’s trendier bespoke bistros.

Possibly as a sign that this particular bid for notoriety is wearing a bit thin, there are now a number of restaurants have flipped the whole concept, majoring on the fact that everything on their menus – from mince to marjoram – are proudly local. Ladies and gentlemen, please be upstanding for the Dawn of the (so-called) Locavores…

It is, to be fair, an approach that seems to be going down well. The Chairman, a Central-set locavore locale, for instance, was acclaimed as Hong Kong’s finest foodie haven at this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Next year, however, it may face competition from another indigenous-ingredient enthusiast – Root, an H Code-located purveyor of fine French cuisine, all prepared from local farm inputs, with every effort made to derive the utmost from each freshly-sourced element on a “stalk to stem” basis.

Head of serving up superb sustainable cuisine at Root is Executive Chef Vito Chan, a man whose avowed philosophy is to make more from less. One of the key tools at his disposal in this regard is cryoconcentration, an innovative biofood technique said to deliver wastage of less than 5%. Such a skill, though, is not the only reason he was asked to take up the reins of the Root kitchen – he also learnt his trade under the guidance of such luminaries as Richard Ekkebus (Executive Chef of Hong Kong’s The Landmark, Mandarin Oriental’s twin-Michelin-starred Amber restaurant) and Donovan Cooke (Executive Chef at The Atlantic restaurant in Melbourne).

Keen to sample his skills for ourselves, we eagerly awaited the first item on the special tasting menu – Yellow fungus, abalone, duck consommé. While the name itself is self-explanatory, it doesn’t do justice to the multitude of flavours that Chef Chan packs into this petite-portioned appetiser. While the mild-flavoured abalone blends perfectly with the meaty fungus, this, in turn, segues seamlessly into the sweet duck consommé, triggering a cornucopia of flavours that is only enhanced further by the freshness of the edible flower garnish.

Next up is the eponymous appetiser – Bamboo fungus, scallop, karasum. Unlike its prosaic name, however, the dish itself is pretty much perfectly-plattered poetry. Here, the scallop mousse has been deftly inserted into a tube of bamboo fungus and then splayed across a bed of karasum (Chinese herbs) and mushroom broth, and topped with caviar and chrysanthemum petals. It’s a beautiful presentation, with its nourishing flavours equally heartwarming.

It is, however, the main course – Black truffle, yellow chicken, morel – that proves Chef Chan’s skills beyond doubt. The black truffle sits on a bed of chicken extract, while the yellow chicken breast comes crusted with sunflower seeds and roasted chicken skin, making it a dish where very little goes to waste. The morel, meanwhile, is topped with bitter melon and shrimps, which together create a perfect balance of flavours. Characteristically, Chef Chan again seems to revel in playing off the flavours against each other, with the mild taste of the chicken ably enhanced by the tangy sunflower seeds and the savoury tones of the morel dancing a tango with the bitterness of the bitter melon.

Black truffle ice cream, lemon meringue, almond

By the time dessert is delivered, for us at least, Chef Chan’s culinary genius is beyond dispute, although the Black truffle ice cream, lemon, almond cream sauce would have sufficed to dispel any lingering doubts. Indeed, the richness of the ice cream combined with the citrusy notes of the lemon and the freshness of the basil leaves ensured that the chef had once again delivered a dish that is pure perfection.

And that’s really the root of Root’s success – delicious dishes that don’t rely on hero ingredients, but where all the elements on the plate unite into something quite unique…

Root. 7/Fl, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central. (852) 2420 8112. www.roothongkong.com

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay; Video: Kingsley Lau

Old Bailey introduces new Jiangnan dishes and Shanghai-style mooncakes

While a round-trip to Shanghai or Suzhou may be one of the most convenient forays for Hongkongers, it’s always nice to know that the impeccable cuisine of the Jiangnan province can be found right here in the city, within the walls of JIA Group’s Old Bailey.

Housed within the second floor of Tai Kwun’s JC Contemporary complex, Old Bailey modern-chic interiors, with its earthy tones and ample natural light, is welcoming from the word go. Upon opening last year, JIA Group intended for the restaurant to bring a unique and contemporary spin on the iconic region of Jiangnan’s culinary traditions. Fulfilling that promise, this Jiang-joint has quickly won over diners across the city and has become one of the favourite spots in Central for Chinese food.

Eager to try out the newly updated seasonal tasting menu, we headed to Old Bailey to check for ourselves exactly what Executive Chef Wong Kwan Man has been cooking up. And he sure didn’t disappoint…

Paying mind to our preferences, our Xiao long bao came veggie-friendly, stuffed with green chilli, aubergine, sautéed fresh soybean, bean curd knot and pickled cabbage. The dough was delicately soft, while the stuffing inside was savoury and nourishing, reminding us how just far vegan Chinese dishes have come.

Next up was the Sauteed grouper fillet with pickled cabbage. This sharing plate proved to be tender and flavourful as well, with the grouper almost as fresh as if it had been hoisted from the sea just moments ago and served on our plate without any delay. The pickled cabbage, meanwhile was suitably crunchy, and provided an apt counterpoint to the tender fish morsels.

Savoury and sweet Shanghai-style mooncakes

No doubt mindful of the fact that the Mid-Autumn Festival is round the corner, Old Bailey has also introduced both savoury and sweet Shanghai-style mooncakes to the menu. Truly authentic to the Shanghainese style, the festive treats come in the shape of buttery short-crust style pastry wraps, with either sweet red bean paste or savoury pork inside. Pre-orders for the mooncakes, which come in boxes of six, are available now.

Old Bailey 2/F JC Contemporary, Tai Kwun, Old Bailey Street, Central, Hong Kong, +852 2877 8711

Text: Bailey Atkinson

Review: Chinese all-new noshery Nove serves up tradition with a twist

To find Nove, you have to be in the know. Hidden in a narrow alley in Central, without an English name on the shop front, this newly-opened noshery – perhaps deliberately – recreates the atmosphere of a secretly-tucked-away Chinese kitchen.

The feeling only intensifies upon entering. It’s like being transported straight into Shanghai of yesteryears. With mosaic floors, Chinese lanterns and ink paintings all being an intrinsic part of the decor, every nook and corner promises an authentic Chinese gourmet experience.

And the menu doesn’t disappoint either. But the culinary team at Nove doesn’t just stop with recreating traditional dishes – indeed, executive chefs Wong Yiu Por and Poon Kwai Chung have some unique tricks up their sleeves. This sees such popular dishes as the xiao long bao undergoing a makeover with the addition of lobster bisque. The result is soft juicy dumplings rendered even more delicious by the mild seafood-flavoured broth.

Another dish that caught our fancy was the baked abalone and cheese tart. While Hongkongers love their egg tarts, this savoury take on the popular street food won our heart with its simplicity and skillful execution. While the cheese complements the abalone perfectly, it doesn’t overwhelm the seafood’s unique taste, creating a perfectly harmonious appetiser.

Of the mains, the sliced goose and marinated hard-boiled egg is a Chiu Chow-style delicacy – a stellar example of Chef Poon Kwai Chung’s expertise in Chiu Chow-style marinated dishes. With the egg complementing the poultry, it’s the spicy, pungent sauce that ties the whole dish together and has you reaching out for seconds.

At Nove, the portions are quite right-sized, and the best part about that is you can order an assortment of items – from traditional pig trotters to experimental seafood and kimchi dumplings. One thing’s sure, though… whatever, you try at Nove, chances are you won’t be disappointed!

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Pretty in Pot: Singapore’s beloved Beauty in the Pot debuts in Hong Kong

Since 2014, Singaporean hotpot chain Beauty in the Pot has been something of an innovator, satisfying the southeast Asian region’s craving for sumptuously soupy dish while serving up the latest in collagen-induced ingredients and, of course, with its custom-interiors of trendy millennial pink.

The charming chain has clearly impressed patrons over its first four years of operation, as it successfully expanded into Malaysia and Myanmar before making its way to Hong Kong just three months ago. Nestled atop Gala Place in Mong Kok, the eatery occupies 6,000sq.ft of space and is decorated from top to bottom with its custom-designed princess pink furnishings. Indeed, both soft bubblegum and vivid carnation pink hues can be seen across the venue, and while it may seem overwhelming at first, the rose-coloured decor never once takes away from the foodie experience. In fact, it gives off an ambience of warmth and happiness, which is really what hotpot with loved ones is really all about.

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As we are lead to our very-pink booth, we finally take a seat and decide on our soup bases. Deciding to go the veggie route – as we were sure we’d have plenty of carnivorous helpings soon enough – we ordered the Longevity Wild Pine Mushroom Broth and Vitamin C Tomato Sweet Corn Broth. Both delicious on their own without a single item dropped into the pot, the mushroom was savoury and slightly nutty in taste, while the rich with vitamin C tomato was hearty with its balance of acidity and sweetness.

From here on we don’t waste any time adding items into the hot-pot that lays slightly below the table – a feature we come to love, as not once are we victim to any unwanted splashing or scolding – nor do we need to fan any steam to see each other. There are over dosens of items to choose from with the menu being offered within an iPad making for carefully curated sections and user-friendly ordering. Also not to be missed is the fully-stocked sauce station which features over 20 condiments and sauces allowing you to mix-and-match.

While we order an array of veggies, wagyu beef, chicken, dumplings – and so much more – we can sure to include the Fried Beancurd as we’ve heard the chefs handpick the skin each day making it one of the most delicious and freshest items on the menu. Another notable entry to our pot was the Wagyu Beef which was thinly sliced and well marbled, delivering us the quality we have come to expect from the Japanese cattle. Also not to be overlooked are the various options of Assorted Sashimi Platters which give those with chillier taste-buds to take a break from the hot-pot.

The staff at Beauty in the Pot are friendly and knowledgeable, with an eagerness to make sure guests don’t miss a thing. The technology of both the hot-pot stoves and iPad menus make for a relaxed and enjoyable experience while being engrossed in the colour pink made us recall a time where good times with friends wasn’t secondary to work. It’s certainly a dainty spot with fresh foods, ample amounts of ingredients and a focus on health that we appreciate. Next time we’re feeling girlish and hot-pot greedy Beauty in the Pot will be our go to spot.

Beauty in the Pot, Shop 803, 8/F, Gala Place, 56 Dundas Street, Mongkok. (852) 3162 8238

Review: Soul-satisfying sumptuous steaks at Porterhouse

While there is no denying that petite-portioned fine-dining fare looks great on Instagram, it may not always fill your tummy, heart and soul in the same good-old-fashioned way as does a hearty steak. If it is such a sumptuous fare that you seek, you should – without further ado – head LKF-wards where housed within California Tower is the vibrant steakhouse, Porterhouse.

Upon entering, it’s clear that there is more to Porterhouse than just good steaks though. The spacious interiors flaunt a well-stocked bar with an enviable collection of wines on one side and an open kitchen with a raw seafood counter on another. The restaurant has been adorned with blue and gold accents, with high ceilings and discreet lighting conferring a luxurious ambience to the whole space.

Burrata cheese salad, a vegetarian delight at Porterhouse

Once we were ushered to our seats, we found that the menu is equally impressive, boasting an expansive seafood platter and a range of appetisers. We decided to start with Caprese of Burrata, made with tomato, crispy sour dough, smoked eggplant puree, stracciatella – a light, tangy, smoky concoction of flavours contrasting with the crispy bread. Ham lovers, meanwhile, shouldn’t miss out on the Premium Trio of Ham, consisting of Parma Ham (aged 24 months), Iberico Bellota (aged 36 months) and Iberico Cecina of Beef (aged 24 months).

But the true heroes of the menu were the special selection of steaks, said to be the most extensive selection of porterhouse cuts available in Hong Kong. Porterhouse cuts are typically two steaks in one – the marbled striploin and the lean tenderloin – and are meant for sharing. The restaurant offers a wide range of premium beefs in this special cut: Spanish Los Norteños aged over 48 months, Irish John Stone beef aged 24 months, US Creek Stone Prime cut aged 28 months, Poland SOKOLOW signature line aged over 18 months, Italian-Scottish ‘High Quality Food’ beef aged over 24 months and Australian Mayura Wagyu beef aged over 30 months.

Every Wednesday Porterhouse offers free raclette cheese on special steak

It is this latter variety that we decided to try medium-rare and were duly rewarded for our choice by a huge serving platter of juicy, succulent, perfectly marbled meat, the kind that literally melts in the mouth and has you reaching out for seconds. Being chocolate- and grass-fed, the beef was the right balance of sweet and tender, with the beef’s natural flavours standing out but never overpowering the palate.

The best part? If you go on Mondays, till 26 August, you can savour these premium cuts at half the price only during dinner service. But the portions are enormous, almost 1kg of meat to be shared between two, so make sure to build your appetite before the meal.

Those who are small eaters, meanwhile, can try the wide selection of fresh seafood served raw or fired up on the grill as well. Whatever your choice, expect to enjoy nothing less than an evening of fine dining, fine wine and fine service, because finesse seems to be the DNA of Porterhouse.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Dream Cruises introduces sumptuous “A Taste of The Palace” experience

The charm and appeal of a luxurious all-inclusive holiday packed to the brim with a treasure trove of world-class cultural and adventuring activities is attractive to say the least, and that’s exactly what World Dream, the luxury cruise ship run by Dream Cruises, offers its lucky guests as part of its premium Palace offering.

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Occupying the upper levels of the 335m-long, 18-deck vessel, The Palace is an innovative “ship within a ship” concept that serves up 150 sumptuous suites and villas, replete with VIP facilities such as private pools, spa, gym and fine-dining venues that are only accessible by Palace guests. In addition, they can avail themselves of the meticulously personalised Dream Butler service, with a dedicated butler available 24 hours a day to cater to your every need, be it booking an entertaining theatre show or booking a table at one of the fine-dining establishments aboard World Dream.

From left - Chef Darren McGrady, Michael Goh, President of Dream Cruises, and Chef Ivan Li — *From left: Chef Darren McGrady, Michael Goh, Dream Cruises President, and Chef Ivan Li*

In a bid to heighten the luxury factor even further, the cruise liner recently announced the introduction of an all-new dining experience – “A Taste of the Palace”. The second annual instalment of Taste the Dream – Wine and Dine at Sea culinary programme from Dream Cruises, the showcase offers lucky Palace guests booking this package a unique insight into the dishes favoured by imperial families of both the East and West.

Dream Cruises - The Forbidden Banquet by Chef Ivan Li — *The Forbidden Banquet by Chef Ivan Li*

Helming the first of this two-pronged epicurean journey is Chef Ivan Li of Family Li Imperial Cuisine, whose ancestor Li Zijia once oversaw the imperial kitchens of Empress Cixi, the famed Qing dynasty ruler. Building on this storied legacy, his The Forbidden Banquet recreates dished favoured by the Qing royal family. Highlights here include the delicate Bird’s Nest with Pheasant Meat and Vermicelli, all subtle flavours melded with unique textures, the Stir Fry Lobster in Beijing Style – succulently fresh morsels of lobster packed to the brim with umami notes – and, of course, the Tofu of Jade, a viridescent grean pea puree said to be a favourite of Empress Cixi herself.

Dream Cruises - The Queen's Feast by Chef Darren McGrady — *The Queen’s Feast by Chef Darren McGrady*

Journeying to the other side of the world, the second immersive culinary experience comes in the form of The Queen’s Feast. Ably overseen by Chef Darren McGrady – whose tenure as the personal chef of both Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Diana gives him a unique insight into the nutritional cravings of Britain’s royalty – the degustation menu here features heavy hitters such as the luxuriously creamy Asparagus Veloute, Ballotine of Salmon with a low-fat tomato and dill mousse (a special request from Princess Di, an avid fan of healthy eating), and the Queen’s personal favourite of Juniper Crusted Venison with Truffle Oil Risotto.

Not satisfied with just tantalising your taste buds, though, Dream Cruises will also be treating programme guests to a plethora of cultural highlights, including Peking opera, British-style garden tea parties and even a Beatles tribute concert or two for good measure. For those keen to get their own glimpse of the royal high life, the Taste the Dream – Wine and Dine at Sea package is available from October 2019 to January 2020.

Summer Bites: Zuma introduces new summer menu

With Hong Kong’s heat hitting record highs, there’s no better time to wipe the sweat from your brow and head indoors for a mouth-watering affair instead. If you’re at a loss for where to start, the hot new summer menu courtesy of the fine folks over at Zuma, the much-favoured Japanese noshery, is pretty much guaranteed to be a good bet.

New to the menu this summer are plates that are sure to not only thrill, but also chill your taste-buds, starting with the refreshing Big apple berry cocktail which perfectly combines raspberries, blackberries, lime, apple, vanilla and Ketel One vodka. The sweetness of the cocktail instantly hits one’s tastebuds before the aftertaste of a slight sour flavour takes over. Close your eyes and it’s easy to believe you’re sipping poolside at a luxurious paradise-set resort.

Bringing more yummy to your tummy is the new Tomato salad with Roasted Eggplant and Ginger Dressing. This sharing plate’s deliciousness can be accredited to the binchotan charcoal on which it was grilled, this is a dish best suited to share among two to four friends.

While, perhaps more high-end than your typical Japanese pub style cuisine, the Chilled somen noodles with sea urchin, grated ginger and wasabi, still shows what izakaya is all about, as each bite brings one closer to the sea thanks to its luxury seasonal ingredients and masterful Japanese traditional touches. Much like the salad that precedes it, this dish is best shared amongst a small group of friends.

Zuma’s summer menu is a refreshing reminder to dinners just why the Central-spot has earned the ranking as an award-winning kitchen and bar.

Text: Bailey Atkinson

37 Steakhouse & Bar: Sumptuous steaks and stunning vistas atop The Peak

Perched atop one of Hong Kong’s most iconic and stunning destinations – the Victoria Peak – comes a new meat-minded dining concept from hospitality group The Food Story. Following the successful launches of a series of new dining destinations, including Causeway Bay-based Wagyu Vanne and Sensu by Gosango, its latest offering comes in the form of a stunning 7,000sq.ft specialty steak restaurant in the recently-refurbished Peak Galleria – 37 Steakhouse & Bar.

Designed by award-winning Japanese designer Yasumichi Morita, the contemporary wood-dominant space is punctuated with oak, brass and cowhide, replete with floor-to-ceiling windows that show off its picturesque views to perfection. 37 Steakhouse & Bar is also home to a treasure trove of fine wines and premium sakes, including an impressive sampling of vintages from Sawaya Matsumoto, the renowned 230-year-old Japanese brewery. The true stars of the show, though, are undoubtedly its wide array of high-end steak offerings. Ranging from USDA Prime Black Angus and Korean Hanwoo selections to its rare Hiyama Kuroge Wagyu – lauded in Japan as one of the finest, most marbled beefs.

Our own tasting experience, however, began with Italian Red Prawn Carpaccio and Japanese Scallop Carpaccio. Succulently fresh and brimming with delicate flavours, these appetisers showcased the very best of the raw seafood cuisine on offer at 37 Steakhouse & Bar.

Next up was the Hand Cut Steak Tartare with Hollandaise, subtly sauced to highlight the palate-pleasing textures of the raw ground beef. Enhancing its appeal even further was the side serving of a cheese crisp, topped with dollops of chopped raw onions, pickles and even a serving of luxurious caviar. Each pairing offered diners a different end note to every bite savoured.

Then the true crowed-pleasers arrived tableside – a series of the restaurant’s signature steaks, including a rib-eye, a striploin and the long-awaited Hiyama A5 Wagyu. With each prime cut cooked to medium-rare perfection in its prized Spanish Josper charcoal grill, every slice of the meaty melt-in-your-mouth morsels were inhaled in short order, with nary a bite left in sight within minutes.

*Black Truffle with Mashed Potato & Slow Cooked Egg*

With our belts straining at the waist, we were hard-pressed to find space for the concluding dishes that hoved into view. Thankfully finding that last bit of appetite, we then dug into the creamy goodness that was the Black Truffle with Mashed Potato & Slow Cooked Egg (a dreamy concoction that should be a main dish in its own right) and the Sea Urchin & Crab Meat Barley Risotto, a mouth-watering umami-packed flavour bomb that served as the perfect end note to our delicious tasting experience.

37 Steakhouse & Bar. Shop 102-103, 1/F, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Road, The Peak. (852) 2885 3320.

Reddy Meals: Cantonese cuisine at its very finest, courtesy of Redhouse

In Hong Kong, within Central alone, diners are spoilt for choice when it comes to the array of international dishes on offer. Meanwhile, truly superb Cantonese cuisine can – not unexpectedly – be found in just about any neighbourhood. As a result, identifying a Cantonese cuisinary likely to impress both out-of-town epicureans and intemperate in-towners is no easy matter.

Should such a dining dilemma prove one of your current preoccupations, then an evening repasting on the finest fare on offer from Redhouse, a Centralset champion of contemporary Chinese cuisine, may prove the ideal remedy. The second Chinese-only noshery to be launched by the Gaia Group – the Hong Kong-headquartered hospitality ensemble behind the refined fine dining on offer from the likes of SHÈ and Isola – this relatively recently-launched restaurant has already established itself as something of a local byword for more-than-competent Cantonese cuisine, with contemporary digressions ditched in favour of an endearing, authentic traditionalism.

Indeed, only its location is a little out of keeping with the norm for Chinese nosheries – instead of being tucked away in some best-kept-secret alleyway, it sits flaunting itself atop LKF’s California Tower, as if immodestly declaiming its dining pre-eminence with the kind of come-and-have-a-go-if-you-think you’re- bold-enough bravado more at home in a British boxer’s dressing room. Upon admission to the inner Redhouse, however, such incongruity is swiftly forgotten as you bask in its ubiquitously scarlet and gold-hued traditionalism.

Overseeing operations at this bastion of much-loved local-dishes-done exceedingly-well is Chef So Shea-fat (‘Fat Gor’ to family and close friends). A Guangzhouer by birth, So owes his fealty to food and feasting to his mother, who instilled in him a love of his home cuisine and whose early nurturing helped him build his reputation in the SAR since first arriving when just 17 years old.

Seated so as to take full advantage of the breathtaking views the restaurant commands out across Central, we were keen to see just what So and co. had in store for our deliberately-left-vacant tums. Prior to tucking in, however, we first had to down a statutory serving of the house’s signature craft cocktail – modestly (and potentially confusingly) rejoicing solely in the name Rice. Imbued with Chinese rice spirits, red wine and peach and apple liqueur, then garnished with a touch of ginger and lemon juice, it looked as delicious as it tasted.

Before we were even four sips in, however, a sprightly pair of appetisers – Purple Lava Buns and Crispy Tofu with Salt and Pepper – were promptly tabled. While the former, all Japanese purple sweet potato goodness, proved sweet and irresistibly gooey, the latter was savouriness incarnate, seeing this particular culinary excursion starting less with a bang than a ying and a yang…

Served up next – and expertly rolled in – was a beautifully presented Peking Duck, which was sliced with impeccable precision immediately in front of us. Each serving was gently carved on to our waiting plates, set next to bamboo steamers brimming with Chinese pancakes and a trayful of sliced vegetables, sugars and sauce. The most traditional of all the traditional items on offer, the duck also offered diners the opportunity to flaunt – or not – their wrapping skills. Again, in line with the eatery’s advocacy of harmony above all, the pairing of the duck’s fatty meat with the more abstemious wraps sufficed to fend off any mid-munch heaviness, while the resh vegetables served as apt palate cleansers.

And then on to dessert, where it was left to the Ying Yang sponge cake to do the honours, which proved to be the most feng shui-ed comestible we’d ever been called upon to digest. With balance once again at the fore, the coconut and sesame flavouring of our serving fused in perfect harmony, an apt enough summation of the overall Redhouse experience.

Redhouse. 23/Fl, California Tower, 32 D’Aguilar Street, Central. (852) 2344 2366. www.gaiagroup.com.hk/ restaurant/redhouse

Text: Bailey Atkinson
Photos: Gaia Group

Purely Piedmonte: Castellana delights in Causeway Bay

Given the popularity of Italian food in Hong Kong, it is an easy enough to spot pizzerias and pasta parlours in just about every neighbourhood on the island side. However, it is thanks to two-Michelin-starred Chef Marco Sacco that the 852 is receiving its first taste of high-end Piedmontese cuisine with the opening of Castellana.

Located on 10th floor of the Cubus Building, the restaurant’s understated interiors are adorned in calm and subtle tones of red and gold, with seating arrangement for 50 guests with two private rooms overlooking Lee Gardens, all conjuring up an intimate atmosphere and the romance that is often associated with Italian culture.

castellana — Lingotto Di Mergozzo (Smoked Lake Trout)

Offering three separate tasting menus with four to seven courses, we opted for the serving of four plates, beginning with the Lingotto Di Mergozzo (Smoked Lake Trout) as our starter. The trout proved to be refreshing while the balsamic vinegar that lay dotted atop of the fish added an extra complexity to the dish. Smoked for hours before its serving, the trout is a true treat especially this far east.

Next came the Ravioles della Val Varaita (Val Varaita Ravioles with Piedmont Toma Grana Padano) – definitely not your run-of-the-mill ravioli – this dish stayed with us long after its completion especially thanks to the truffles sprinkled on top, that gave the dish a rich luxurious finish. In fact, Piedmont is said to be the birthplace of the truffle and Castellana promises its diners that each imported truffle is of the finest quality in the world.

Our third serving to arrive was the Lombo di agnello in crosta di funghi ( Panfried lamb loin with mushroom crust and potato mille-feuille) – a near-perfect threesome where the lamb was tender and juicy, while the potato mille-feuille was as soft as butter, melting in our mouths as we savoured each bite.

The final dish to arrive was the beautifully presented Bonet Piemontese (Chocolate and Amaretti Pudding) a slice of rich chocolate containing a soft pudding that led us down a decadent path of sweetness.

Just at two months’ old, there is already nothing novice about Castellana. With its mastery of the cuisine of Piedmont region and its staff’s knowledgeable service, it wouldn’t come as a surprise to us if Castellana becomes the newest ‘It’ place for Italian cuisine for Hongkongers.

Castellana 10/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road+852 31885028 www.castellanahongkong.com

Text: Bailey Atkinson