Heartwarming dishes and fiery showmanship liven up winters at Uoharu

From the time it opened in October last year, Uoharu – the first overseas branch of the popular Tokyo-based izakaya – has been clear in its mission of recreating a slice of Japan in the heart of Central. Indeed as you take in the dimly lit interiors after entering through a door with a deliberately low ceiling (so that you have to bow down to enter, thereby showing respect in Japanese culture), you’d be forgiven if you thought you had accidentally been transported to an eatery in Kyoto’s famous Gion district.

Now with Uoharu’s winter menu, which introduces five new heartwarming dishes, the feeling of being embraced by Japanese tradition is even more heightened than ever. But even before we taste-tested the new additions to the menu, our interest was already piqued by the first appetisers, the disarmingly simple platter of seasonal fruits and vegetables called Otoshi, served with a warm savoury anchovy sauce that blended perfectly with the slightly sweeter flavours of the veggies.

Eager to try the rest of the dishes, we then dove into the next dish Karubi with bone – a thoroughly meaty affair slow-cooked for three hours to give you that exquisite melt-in-the-mouth sensation.

But our tryst with meaty matters was far from over with the next dish – Wagyu Foie Gras Sukiyaki – which featured A4 Wagyu beef from Kagoshima and Hungarian Foie Gras as the star ingredients – proving to be a delectable combination of tender and tasty sensations on the palate.

Seafood lovers would also have much to look forward to at Uoharu, with the Crab Croquette Rice and the Premium Seafood Steamed Egg both turning out to be creamy affairs packed with marine flavours. However, the show-stealer in the ‘seafood’ category was undoubtedly the Grilled Whole Tai with Japanese Arima Sansho Pepper, a whole sea bream grilled with house-made soy sauce. Thanks to the light pepper seasoning, the full flavours of the fish were enhanced even further, creating a veritable tango on our taste buds.

At Uoharu, the showmanship is far from over though. On certain evenings, the guests are treated to a ‘fish grilling performance’, a visually stunning performance in which the head chef flash-grills a fish in an otherwise darkened room, while being cheered on by his colleagues and assembled diners alike. Indeed, if you’re planning to visit Uoharu anytime soon, don’t be alarmed if the lights turn off suddenly, instead grab your phone and turn on Instagram Live, because the action’s just about to start…

Address: 7/F, M88 Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington Street – Central
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Saffron Specifics: Three facts about the world’s most expensive spice

There was once a time, not too long ago, that spices were a luxury in our world, a luxury so splendrous that wars were declared in their names. While it has been a few hundred years, give or take, since the last spice-sourced bloodshed occured, one particular spice still remains a luxury in the modern world – saffron.

Indeed, the swanky spice has been coveted and craved by humankind for more than 3,500 years, a desire that crossed continents, cultures, and dynasties. Saffron, derived from a the dried stigmas of the saffron crocus plant, was a name bequeathed to it by the Ancient Greeks, with a dash of Hebrew. The plant is unmistakable, blooming into a cup-shaped flower in gorgeous lilac hues.

1. It sells for USD$500-5,000 a pound

It is only natural for one to wonder, what is so special about saffron that accounts for its stunning wholesale price of US$500-$5,000 per pound? The bulk of the reason is that it actually takes over 80,000 of the crocus flowers to produce just one pound of the vermilion spice. Furthermore, each plant can only be harvested within a short time frame in the Autumn months.

2. It was discovered in Greece

Saffron is said to have first been discovered on the Greek island of Crete during the Bronze Age, with its first recorded image said to depict the flower being picked by young girls and monkeys.

3. Most of the world’s supply now comes from Iran

Iran is now responsible for over 90 percent of the world’s saffron harvest and supply. However, despite the country’s mass production of the spice, it is said that the producers in Spain are, in fact, purveyors of products of the best quality in the world.

Healthy Bites: Tong Chong Street Market embraces hearty, healthy eats

Tong Chong Street Market, nestled in the bustling shopping and business sector of Quarry Bay’s Taikoo Place, is a far cry from the granny-run dai pai dong, a type of open-air food stall that is found on all corners of Hong Kong.

Starting of the new year with fresh eats and all the energy that comes with the B12 to spare, the market will host its “Healthy Living” theme over January and February, and will run every Sunday (except 3 February). Highlighting from its hearty fare include Impossible Foods x Guest Chef Pop-ups, which will host May Chow, Asia’s Best Female Chef in 2017 and founder of Central-based eatery Little Bao, and John Anthony‘s (which we reviewed last October) Executive Chef Satio Chau.

Those seeking to extend healthy habits past their protein portions can participate in Rooftop Republic’s complimentary upcycling workshops, and See Network’s guide to planting edible herbs and flowers, along with a workshop on how to craft upcycled paper pencils that will take place inside the upper deck of the market’s iconic bus.

Nike Training Club and Man Cha will also be present holding fitness classes for the public, and in a heartwarming move, also for underprivileged children and their families.

Healthy living extends beyond healthy eating, and acknowledging that, the market is collaborating with Honestly Green to ensure that the vendors are eco-friendly and working towards sustainability. Market-goers can enjoy different levels of discounts upon presenting their own utensils, they can also opt to borrow cutlery from TCSM’s Sustainability Corner. Recycling bins will be featured throughout the market with ambassadors from WWF giving tips on how to use recycling effectively.

With 31 different food vendors and 40 stalls taking part in the “Healthy Living” theme, health-conscious market-goers are sure to be spoilt for choice trying to narrow down which eats to try, and would hopefully come back wiser on how to make a positive impact through the right choices.

Date: 6 January to 17 February 2019 (Every Sunday, except 3 February 2019)
Time: 11 am – 5 pm
Address: Tong Chong Street, Taikoo Place, Quarry Bay

Set sail on an epic culinary journey at The Ocean by Olivier Bellin

When one particular Michelin-star-winning French chef looked to open a new restaurant in Asia, Hong Kong was his preferred location from the off. It is, after all, a city that prides itself on its gourmandry. His instincts proved sound, with his eatery, The Ocean by Olivier Bellin, even bagging a coveted Michelin star in 2018.

Clear as to just what sets The Ocean by Olivier Bellin apart, the venerable chef now says: “Essentially, our team aims to create beautiful products, each highlighting its intrinsic properties, while combining that with the finest traditions of Breton cuisine, which always looks to fuse the very best that the land and the sea have to offer. With each dish, we look to bring out all the most rarefied nuances of Brittany.”

Indeed, sticking to his avowed mission to bring out the best of Breton cuisine, Chef Bellin’s carefully-curated menu serves up a bespoke blend of maritime and earthly delights. Indeed, with our palate aptly piqued, we immediately plumped for the five-course degustation menu…

The very first instalment turned out to be the engagingly entitled Ocean Breeze – a chaud-froid of cauliflower and parmesan ice cream, served with squid ink jus. With the crunchiness of the cauliflower complementing the softness of the ice cream, the tone was more than set for the rest of the tasting, with expectations now running high – partly on account of the accompanying Champagne Thiénot Brut N.V., which enhanced each individual flavouring.

Next up, Sea Anchor – a pan-seared coral Brittany langoustine, beetroot and buckwheat tartare and black pudding – exemplified Bellin’s land-meets-sea leitmotif. While the freshness of the langoustine belied sundry maritime influences, the earthy aromas of the beetroot tied the whole dish together in a veritable symphony of flavours – a sensation heightened yet further by the paired Domaine Elian Da Ros, Coucou Blanc 2014.

Of the mains, it was easy to understand just how the Deep Sea – a lightly cooked Brittany blue lobster with brioche and pork head veil, curry sauce, apple and grapefruit condiments – has become the restaurant’s signature serving. Testifying to the special place it has in his own heart, the proud chef said: “In the Deep Sea, we have tried to optimise the natural deep flavours of the Brittany blue lobsters by contrasting them with land elements.”

Again blending the chef’s favoured elements with consummate ease, this was a dish that was both mild and complex, a sentiment only elevated by the sweetness of the lobster and then given fresh depth by the accompanying condiments. The full-bodied red wine – Domaine Georges Vernay, Viognier, Le Pied De Samson 2016 – proved to be an inspired pairing.

The dessert, by comparison – the somewhat intriguingly designated Decompression – was a relatively simple affair, blending apple texture with vanilla ice cream. What it lacked in complexity, though, it made up for in terms of fulsome flavours. Ideal for those without too much of a sweet tooth, it may not be a wholly decadent affair, but it brought the whole meal to a more than satisfying conclusion.

Aside from the quality of the cuisine, a visit to The Ocean makes one other thing more than apparent – this is not the kind of place to duck into for a quick nibble. No, this is one establishment that you simply have to savour, leisurely working your way through its magnificent menu, while the city buzzes below.

The Ocean by Olivier Bellin. Shop 303-304, L3, The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, Hong Kong (to be relocated to Central in early 2019). (852) 2889 5939. www.theocean.hk

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Restaurant review: AHA Restaurant & Bar, your go-to destination for soul food

Even before you enter the warm recesses of AHA Restaurant & Bar, you are greeted with a pleasant view of the welcoming interiors, thanks to its distinctive open-air frontage. The feeling of warmth only intensifies as you take in the urban chic decor within the restaurant – here is a place that is at once casual and sophisticated, contemporary and vintage. The vintage touch is even more heightened by the white vaulted ceiling, inspired by the famed architecture of Moscow’s metro stations, that emphasises the room’s height and allows plenty of natural lights during the day. For the night, dozens of beehive-shaped pendant lamps illuminate each corner of AHA Restaurant & Bar, transforming into an inviting neighbourhood tavern.

Suitably enticed by the interiors, we dove straight into the menu, with the first appetiser, Fresh Burrata and Watermelon Salad. Redolent with the goodness of soft Italian milk cheese, juxtaposed with the freshness of watermelon, it was a refreshing start to our tasting menu, and one, which would no doubt be a crowd favourite, come the sultry summer season in Hong Kong.

Next up was the Lump Crab Cake, with a crispy crust that contrasted beautifully with the meaty chunks of crab inside. If one is to be fastidious, the crab cake could indeed have been a tad juicier, but this did not make it less palatable in any way.

Our appetites more piqued than ever now, we delved into the Spaghetti with Mixed Seafood. Though packed with maritime flavours, it proved to be slightly overpowered by the rich tomato broth, all of which, though, only adding to the dish’s overall succulence.

The biggest draw was, however, the Roasted Free Range Chicken, a signature dish at AHA Restaurant & Bar. It was easy to understand why it’s such a crowd pleaser. Freshly roasted so that the chicken retains its inner moistness and served with a savoury homemade gravy, it is ‘comfort food’ at its wholesome best, elevated even further by the sprinkling of corn and other veggies on top.

For those who believe dessert is the darling of any dining experience, AHA’s offerings won’t disappoint at all. In fact, the Chia Seed Panna Cotta, with its perfect balance of sweetness and crunchiness is a wobbly wonder. Lip-smackingly good, we say!

With scrumptious fare, uplifting interiors and heartwarming service, AHA by ZS will not just fill your belly, but also your heart and soul.

AHA Restaurant &Bar
Address: G/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ahabyZS/

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

End-of-year Cheer: Hong Kong’s hottest parties to ring in the New Year

In the midst of the Christmas rush, one may be preoccupied with finding the perfect gift for their sweetie, or perhaps, presenting the kids with the magic of Santa, or even opting for a larger size of Christmas feasting jeans; so it’s forgivable to have lost track of time and put New Years Eve plans on the back burner. If you are, indeed, yet to find the perfect party to count down to the Year of the Pig, don’t fret. Here at Gafencu, we’ve checked our list once – twice – three times, and have gathered together the most luxurious dinners and parties to ring in 2019.

Fang Fang

Acclaimed Hong Kong Chef Wong Tai Po invites guests celebrate the New Year at his modern Asian culinary eatery, Fang Fang. Feast upon shrimp har gau and wagyu dumplings, while always having your glass filled to the brim with their free flow package of spirits, wines, and beer. (Dinner: HK$888; Free-flow package: HK$440)

Hunter and The Chase

Promising patrons the opportunity to ring in the new year with a bang is the newly-opened Hunter & Chase. With its four-hour free-flow Might Night Glam sharing feast – including seasonal oysters, osetra caviar, lobster tail and roasted bone marrow – we’re sure your last meal of the year will be one to remember, if not a reason to make an exercise routine a resolution for the year to come. (Dinner: HK$698; Free-flow package: HK$358)

CÉ LA VI

A favourite fixture of Lan Kwai Fong, CÉ LA VI, is presenting a Sunset New Year’s Eve Menu party with a 2-hour seating of four courses of mouth-watering dishes of sushi and sashami platters. Stick around apres-dinner and join other well-dressed patrons for the official New Year countdown at the rooftop bar, replete with red and gold accents, in what is sure to be a glamorously chic celebration. (Dinner: First Seating 6-7:30pm, HK$888. Second Seating from 8:30pm, HK$1,888)

The Pawn

For those wishing to bid adieu to 2019 away from the bustling crowds of Central, Wanchai-located The Pawn is hosting their ‘La Dolce Vita’-themed New Year’s Eve party at their scenic third floor rooftop garden. The party entails a free-flow package of bubbles, cocktails and canapés, live performances, and the promise of more… (Standard: HK$788; At the Door: HK$988)

VEA Lounge

What better way to usher in 2019 than with The Greatest Show? That’s the question that Michelin-starred dinery VEA Restaurant & Lounge is asking would-be patrons. Its circus-themed take on year-end celebrations will see guests eating their fill of inventive Chinese-French snacks, all the while sipping on free-flow sultry special cocktails. Unleash your inner acrobat and swing and sway to the beats of the live DJ as you bid farewell to 2018. (From now til 24 Dec: HK$600; From 25-31 Dec: HK$680; At the door: HK$740)

Text: Bailey Atkinson

Brexfast of Champions: Newly un-EU’d UK nosh from Central-set Statement

Italy has gifted the world’s gourmands with seemingly never-ending pizza and pasta variations, while France has divvied a fine selection of cheese and jambons. Even Germany, meanwhile, has several sumptuous(ish) schnitzels and wursts to its name. What, though, of Great Britain? What can this sceptred isle claim by way of tummy treats for the internationally peckish?

If you’re thinking bangers and mash, boiled cabbage or pork pies, you’re not far off the mark when it comes to UKatering, though none of these are likely to get the Men from Michelin ordering seconds. Or, for the most part, firsts.

The widely-held view of England’s lack of eminence in the edibility stakes may just be about to change, however, with one new Central-set cuisinery – Statement – determined to bring a bite-to-eat Blighty-style bang-up-to-date as the Year of the Boar shuffles, trotters to the fore, into view. Set on the top floor of the wholly-renovated, heritage Tai Kwun building – once home to the former Central Police Station – and owned and operated by the always-sampleable Aqua Restaurant Group, it’s on a mission to see hungry Hongkongers soon noshing down on London-style lunches and supper a-la-Salisbury-style.

Upon stepping into Statement’s decorously-appointed dining area, it is immediately apparent that Aqua is keen to dispel any notion that that it has invested its hard-earned money in an upmarket fish-and-chippery. From its coolly elegant dark interiors to its plush tropical verandahs (overlooking either the fleshpots of Hollywood Road or the Tai Kwun Compound) nary the merest hint of battered haddock is to be had. Indeed, all thoughts of stodgy servings vanish as the first plate hoves into view.

Our particular tasting began in fine form with the first of the starters being no less than Heirloom beetroot parcels with aubergine, red pepper, kaffir lime yoghurt, with not the faintest whiff of a pea, mushy or otherwise. If anything, a tad reminiscent of a rich ravioli, these pure purple bites enveloped a delicately-balanced red pepper-eggplant concoction, perfectly contrasting with the tart yoghurt and a generous sprinkle of pistachio nut crumble. Belying its arresting hues, the flavours were the last word in sophisticated subtlety.

Next up was Pan-fried Hokkaido scallops, smoked cabbage heart with Welsh laverbread butter. Here, the oft-derided cabbage took star billing as a perfect smoky foil for the exquisitely cooked, succulent scallops. The creamy, umami-packed laver sauce – a seaweed derivative, who knew? – then added just the right oceanic note, tying the whole dish together superbly.

Barely was the last scallop swallowed, when main course numero uno – Slow-cooked 24-hour marinated braised British oxtail – arrived, with the wait staff rightly billing it as a nicely novel alternative to the more standard steak fare. No disagreement on our part, with the melt-in-your-mouth texture of the shredded oxtail – paired with the tart tomato compote and smooth potato puree – a fitting treat for even the most discerning meat-minded diner.

That, though, proved just the warm-up act for main course number two – Slow-cooked Grassingham duck with plum sauce and salt-baked carrot. Perhaps oddly for a Great British game dish, it called to mind Peking Duck, with the well-prepared duck breast pairing perfectly with the piquancy of the plum sauce.

Full to the point of belt-buckle unbuckling, the prospect of a perfidious Albion afters remained irresistible and the Cranberry poached pear, buttermilk caramel mousse and Scottish shortbread combo didn’t disappoint. In particular, the refreshing tanginess of the bite-sized pear morsels proved the perfect counterpoint to our hearty repast. Add in the crunch of the secret-recipe shortbread and the tantalisingly sweet caramel mousse and it was a finely finessed finale to an unexpectedly haute cuisine experience.

From smoked cabbage hearts and braised oxtail to juicy duck breasts and poached pears, the establishment’s unambiguous ability to take ordinary British ingredients and transform them into a truly high-end culinary experience not only allows it to set a new benchmark in British gourmandry, it allows it to make a truly memorable Statement.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Japanese restaurant Mokutan combines maximum flavours with minimum wastage

As you walk through the narrow Kimberley Street in TST, you may just blink and miss Mokutan, a new Japanese restaurant that opened doors earlier this month. But if you do keep your eyes peeled for this hole-in-the-wall cuisinary, you’ll find yourself well rewarded with an authentic Izakaya experience – the Japanese equivalent of American taverns or Irish pubs.

Done up with a deliberate dose of minimalism, the interiors are at once stark and sleek. In contrast, however, the menu is expansive, boasting, apart from the a la carte options, three set Omakase menus.

These include a nine-course option featuring the chef’s choice of appetiser, meat and vegetable skewers, simmered dish and soup; or a 13-course menu showcasing more lavish dishes. However, for a complete Izakaya experience, we’d recommend the sumptuous 18-course menu, with an appetiser, six meat skewers, six vegetable skewers, a simmered dish, a soup, a grilled dish, seasonal seafood and rice.

What stands out at Mokutan, however, is the efficient way in which almost all parts of the animal are used in the cooking process, ensuring minimum wastage. Take chicken, for example – using the bird’s tail, heart, kidney, neck and skin, the chef extracts the maximum flavours from each part of the bird, presenting guests with a range of unique, juicy skewers that are completely different from each other.

Meat lovers can enjoy classic skewers like minced chicken, Angus beef short ribs and a selection of seafood highlighting Mokutan threadfin, water eel and yellowtail, while vegetarians have a vast menu of seasonal vegetable skewers to choose from such as onigiri, ochazuke, onsen tamago with black truffles and cheese mochi.

Of course, no traditional Izakaya experience is complete without sake, and Mokutan’s bar seems particularly well stocked in that department – with premium sakes such as Daina, Born and Dassai on offer. Those looking for an aperitif can also choose some luscious plum wine from Dewatsuru Kimoto Junmai. However, in our experience, not much aperitif will be needed to stimulate one’s appetite at Mokutan – the delicious aromas wafting through the air as the first skewer hoves into view should be enough to have you salivating!

Mokutan
Shop 2, G/F Empire Prestige,
8 Kimberley Street, TST, Hong Kong
(852) 2708-2009

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Perrier-Jouët joins The Conrad Hong Kong for Afternoon Tea

Unveiling its latest collaboration, luxury champagne brand Perrier-Jouët presents The Conrad Hong Kong’s latest afternoon tea set. Nestled in the hotel lobby, Executive Chef Claudio Rossi and Pastry Chef Billy Yuen invite you to escape the cold of winter and the rush of the holiday season and celebrate the joy of Christmas.

The delightful selection of dishes are made with deluxe ingredients that elevate the festive mood. Sweets lay atop the spread, offering an exciting palate of French cocktail-inspired treats, many with a berry twist. The classic dessert of mini chestnut Mont Blanc stands out as a seasonal favourite, offering an unmatched sweetness to compliment the champagne.

Placed in the centre and bottom of the festive spread lay the savoury items. Among the marvellous assortment of items, the braised wagyu beef short rib with truffle mashed potato stands out and takes you back to Grandma’s holiday cooking. Another holiday favourite the roasted turkey sandwich with cranberry cream that blends together the nostalgia for autumn and the excitement for Christmas – all in one bite!

Complimenting the sweet and savoury dishes of the tea-set perfectly is the Grand Brut Champagne from Perrier-Jouët. Served in a signature flute glass, the beautiful bubbly is the perfect way to usher the festivities with your near and dear ones.

The Bubbly Perrier-Jouët Champagne Afternoon Tea Set is available from 1 December to 6 January.

Text: Bailey Atkinson

Madam Saigon: Vietnamese street food elevated to fine-dining cuisine

As Asia’s World City, Hong Kong welcomes food from all over the world with arms wide open. But Vietnam’s home pride, street food, sometimes seems to sit at odds with the higher echelons of Hong Kong. However, newly-opened Madam Saigon in Tsim Sha Tsui is serving up gorgeous modern interpretations of classic casual Vietnamese dishes which are perfect for a low-key business lunch or a relaxed dinner.

Hong Kong-based chef Ken Lam brings high-quality ingredients, superior cooking techniques and a few choice global influences to his Vietnamese menu to elevate Viet cuisine from fine to ‘fine dining’. Lam has an uncanny skill for knowing when to swap out the traditional elements for higher quality ones, such as replacing freshwater prawns with their sea-faring cousins, and going straight to the source for fresher flavours. The restaurant imports unique ingredients such as baby lotus roots, rice paper wrappers and Phu Quoc peppercorns directly from Vietnam to be prepared in-house.

Instead of the naff raffia and dried palm leaves which usually bedeck street-food restaurants, Madam Saigon opts for a balance of classy, shiny black furniture and lifts the atmosphere with one stunning illustrated mural and another of brightly decorated and textured Non La hats. Settle into the spacious dining area or, for a little more privacy, request one of the booth seats situated near the back of the restaurant.

If you’re looking to show off to your foodie friends or global gourmands, then opt for the Steamed Rice Flan with Minced Pork and Deep Fried Garlic. Even for long-time fans of Vietnamese food, this might be new to you as it hasn’t yet made its way over from the mother country. If you’re a fan of glutinous Cantonese dumplings or Japanese mochi, then these will hit the spot perfectly. Warm and sticky with a salty, savoury crunch. Also ideal for sharing are the Madam Saigon Deep Fried Spring Rolls. Here, Lam swaps out traditional spring roll wrappers for net wrapping and gives them an extra long cook in the deep fryer. The result is both moreish and audibly crunchy.

If you have an important client to impress, then perhaps order the Shrimp with Mixed Fresh Fruit Rice Paper Rolls and the Tom Yum Koong Soup with King Prawn. The rice rolls – an impressive visual display and balance of sweet and savoury flavours – tantalise the palate for an ideal amuse bouche, and the enormous majestic prawn with arching legs rising from its fragrant broth is a sensuous showstopper. Although not as spicy as traditional Thai seafood soups, the broth is a wider blend of sweet and sour flavours, with the slower burn allowing the flavour of the shrimp meat to shine.

Madam Saigon remains well aware that you’ll need something with which to wash this deliciousness down, and have partnered with Blooms Roastery and Craft Tea, the renowned coffee brand of actor Moses Chan, to bring authentic Vietnamese Filter Coffee to the table. If you’re not planning on returning to the office after lunch then the restaurant’s Director of Mixology, Match Chan, has an exquisite handcrafted cocktail menu which is not to be missed. Miss Guava, an exotic blend of sweet guava juice, agave nectar and white rum with sour lime juice and white vinegar, was our particular favourite. Delicious enough to merit another…and maybe even another.

Madam Saigon. Shop B131, B1/F, Mira Place 1, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon. 2808 4777.

Text: Alice Duncan