Everybody knows about Wagyu beef. In fact, its beautiful marbling, melt-in-your-mouth textures and taste bud-tingling flavours have seen this prime Japanese meat dominate fine-dining establishments the world over. Keen to build on this already-hefty reputation, one boutique Australian beef producer, Mayura Station, has spent the last three decades breeding Wagyu cattle that boast an even more distinct flavour profile – Mayura Wagyu beef.
Mayura Wagyu beef is available only at Hong Kong’s finest restaurants
It’s an experiment that’s seemingly made quite a splash in culinary circles. Recently, it snapped up top honours at Australia’s prestigious 2018 delicious. Produce Awards, a competition where candidates must be nominated by food industry experts to just participate. So what sets Mayura Wagyu beef apart from the many other contenders?
Firstly, there’s its location – its cattle roam rolling hills and drink pristine waters purified by the calcium caverns of the Limestone Coast. Also, insofar as Mother Nature allows, hormones and antibiotics are used sparingly to ensure no flavour contamination. But for Scott de Bruin, Mayura Station’s managing director, the single most important factor boils down to how the cows are fed.
Scott de Bruin is Managing Director of Mayura Station, the only purveyor of Mayura Wagyu beef
“We pride ourselves on producing a singe source product,” he proudly expounds, “Not only do we rear the cattle, but we also grow the grain and fodder.” The feed blend – whose contents is a closely-guarded secret – includes, of all things, chocolate, which de Bruin claims gives Mayura Wagyu beef its signature sweet, rich flavour.
Keen to give Mayura Wagyu a try? Sadly, these meaty morsels aren’t available in any retail location in Hong Kong. There’s a silver lining though – several of the city’s premier eateries do feature this premium beef on their menus, including Otto e Mezzo, Arcane, Belon, Tate and Gaia.
Pan-tastic: Le Pan serves inspired French cuisine with an Asian tweak
Stepping into Le Pan, an 18-month-old French fine dining establishment, the first thing that hits you is its sheer immensity. There is, however, sound thinking behind its commodiousness. Unlike Central, Wan Chai or Causeway Bay, where a clutter of deluxe dineries vie for patrons, Le Pan has the missionary-esque task of converting the gastronomically unaware citizens of Kowloon Bay into true aficionados of fine food.
At the head of this wholescale culinary conversion is Chef Edward Voon, Malaysian-born, but Singapore-reared. Bankrolling his bid to properly educate the local palate is Pan Sutong, the Hong Kong-based billionaire businessman who founded Matsunichi Communication Holdings, the home appliance giant. Together, they have created a restaurant that is unashamedly, as Voon puts it, “contemporary French, reimagined”.
Le Pan is ably helmed by Chef Edward Voon
Thankfully, a legion of fine dining enthusiasts and eminent food critics have bought into the shared vision of Le Pan, with many seeing an excursion to Kowloon Bay as more than amply recompensed by the array of ever-changing, well-finessed Gallic gourmandry that is always on offer.
Explaining his approach to building the restaurant’s reputation, Voon says: “I cook everyday as if it’s a competition. Whenever a regular returns, I throw out the menu and change things about for them. I love that kind of adrenaline and that’s also why we swap out over a quarter of the menu every month, giving me the chance to experiment anew.”
Eager to give this ceaseless rotation of fine cusinery a go, we started our tasting with Kristal caviar, botan shrimp, sea urchin, crustacean jelly. Much like the man himself, this starter was multi-layered and complex, with sharply contrasting flavours expertly woven into a wholly-coherent and supremely-satisfying platter.
Cured ocean trout, scampi, verjus, ‘piperade’, Granny Smith apple
Next up, a sumptuous appetiser of Cured ocean trout, scampi, verjus, ‘piperade’, Granny Smith apple. Divided into hot and cold servings, the warmer end of the spectrum featured a crunchy pastry-and-oba-leaf-wrapped scampi, rounded off with a tart Granny Smith apple butter sauce and a drizzle of basil reduction. The chillier choice – perhaps the stronger showing of the two portions – majored on cold trout, foiled wonderfully by a bed of vegetable jelly and topped with creamy salmon tartare.
Cancale whelk ravioli, seaweed, fermented black bean beurre blanc
Delicacy was the order of the day with our final starter – Cancale whelk ravioli, seaweed, fermented black bean beurre blanc, expertly paired with cod roe eggs. The tactical deployment of the (potentially overwhelming) black beans here, proved a surprising yet wholly appropriate addition, and a subtle nod to the Le Pan chef’s Asian roots.
Brittany blue lobster, artichoke, cherry, aromatic sauce
Then it was on to the main course proper – beautifully-plated Brittany blue lobster, artichoke, cherry, aromatic sauce, a dish sure to find favour with even the haughtiest high-end epicurean fans. Indeed, the pairing of such a perfectly-cooked crustacean with lobster and pearl onion tartare was nothing short of inspired.
Imperial pigeon au sang, petit pois, grelot onion, jus carcasse
Skipping from one peak palate performer to the next, it was due time for the house’s piecé de résistance – Imperial pigeon au sang, petit pois, grelot onion, jus carcasse – to take centre stage. Whilst a notoriously problematic bit of poultry for many chefs, the pigeon à la Le Pan – sumptuously smoked in applewood and rosemary – was tender and proved quite the revelation.
After a series of unquestionably complex, yet wholly delicious courses, Chef Voon saw fit to end our gallop through Gallic gastronomy with an apparently simple dessert. The merest tincture of the proffered Yuzu cremeux, white chocolate, almond, lemon confit, however, was enough to dispel that particular notion. Tart yet sweet, creamy yet light, it was the perfect postscript to a truly marvellous menu, and a testament to his deft hand at composing complex dishes far greater than the sum of their parts.
Le Pan. G/F, Goldin Financial Global Centre, 17 Kai Cheung Rd, Kowloon Bay. (852) 3188 2355. www.lepan.com.hk
Text: Tenzing Thondup
Restaurant review: Bibo, where style meets substance
If there were a restaurant equivalent of a speakeasy, Bibo would fit the bill perfectly. Tucked away in Sheung Wan opposite Man Mo temple, it would take a fair bit of investigative skills to firstly locate the restaurant and then to actually get the door open – if one is given to flights of fancy, the experience may seem something like entering Ali Baba’s cave from Arabian Nights.
Renowned street artist Invader’s work displayed at Bibo
Once you’ve successfully crossed the initial hurdles, there’s one more to go: there are two staircases, one going up, another going down – which one do you choose? We followed our instincts and took the path oft travelled and that led us – wonder of wonders – to the right destination, a cosy restaurant and a well-stocked bar – a welcome sight, indeed!
Chef Nicholas Chew
But the surprise was not yet over. In a city where every eatery is desperate to outbid others by bolder, glitzier, more glamorous decor, Bibo goes on a different path altogether. With contemporary art lining literally every surface – from street artist Invader’s ‘notorious’ pixel art to American artist Kaws’ iconic cross-eyed installations, every nook and corner has a cool chic vibe, perfect for an urban crowd ready to forsake ostentatiousness.
At the helm of this urban cuisinary is new executive chef, Nicholas Chew, who gives the classic French menu at Bibo an Asian makeover. The result in an French-Asian fusion cuisine with a modern flair, that tips its hat to French techniques, while exploring its Asian roots through premium indigenous ingredients.
Squid cheong fun
The first dish itself – squid cheong fun – lays testimony to Chef Nick’s vision. The humble rice noodle rolls have been replaced with squid, that has been lightly steamed to simulate the consistency of the traditional cheong fun. To be fair, it’s a dish that’s perhaps more to be applauded for its inventiveness than its actual flavours, but it sets the tone for the next course which is a sustainably sourced Hamachi yellowtail with apple ceviche. The fish was fresh, buttery, but nothing extraordinary; it is the citrusy apple jus, however, that convinced us of the chef’s skills. The citric – yet mildly sweet – flavours of the jus bound every element of the dish into a surprisingly harmonious creation.
Hamachi yellowtail paired with apple ceviche
However, we were in for another surprise as we took the first spoonful of the celeriac risotto. The name should have been a giveaway but we didn’t fully appreciate its aptness until we realised that traditional rice has been replaced by finely chopped celeriac, giving the dish a refreshing acidic bite. Coupled with mango and truffles, this is an item that one can gorge on, without feeling guilty about calorie intake. The next course that greeted us was Wagyu Miyazaki. With Wagyu beef, it’s difficult to go wrong and in the hands of the talented chef, it reached a poetic perfection. The succulent meat – tender on the inside, crisp on the outside – was paired perfectly with scallops, chanterelles and cherries, and was as impeccable a creation as any. Our only grouch? It finished too soon!
Celeriac risotto
With our expectations already sky-high, it was time to dig into the desserts duo – strawberry dacquoise and passion fruit cream. However, maybe because we were expecting nothing short of maverick genius by this time, the desserts left something to be desired.
Well, if the desserts fell slightly short, the wine pairings more than made up for it. Throughout the tasting, we were treated to one liquid gem after the other from the vineyards of Italy and France. Special kudos to the sommelier at Bibo, for his extensive – yet carefully handpicked – wine collection that could easily be the envy of any bar in the city.
With a winning combination of French-Asian cuisine, extensive wine selection and artsy interiors, Bibo brings the best of both worlds – fine arts and fine dining – into one creative space. At the end of the day, it’s a mighty fine experience, we say!
Reservations: www.bibo.hk Address: 163 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan
Phone: +852 2956 3188
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Mad for Mooncakes: Mid-Autumn Festival’s iconic snacks are back
As the Mid-Autumn Festival approaches, it’s easy to understand that revelry is in the air. Lanterns are for sale in every supermarket and mooncakes are lining up the racks of every bakery. Be it a traditional affair in red bean or lotus seed paste or a more modern avatar infused with tea or cheesecakes, mooncakes are literally everywhere. Here are our top picks from the best places in town.
Langham Hotels – For the traditional
Having sold almost 800,000 mooncakes last year alone, Langham Hotels’ mooncakes are among the most coveted in the city, and this year looks to be equally successful. Covering all the classic fillings – be they white lotus seed or red bean paste – their beautifully designed mooncakes are sure to find favour among more traditional Mid-Autumn Festival celebrators. Visit their mooncake e-store to order your own box now.
Tea TW – For tea-totallers
Tea TW, the renowned tea supplier, is bringing its own unique touch to the traditional mooncakes. The latest addition to their signature tea-infused Mid-Autumn pastries is the White Sky Tea Mooncake collection, infused wholly with the afore-mentioned tea’s floral ylang ylang notes and citrusy flavours. For those who like their morning cuppa, these should definitely go on your to-nosh list.
Gaucho – For those with a sweet tooth
Argentinean steakhouse Gaucho puts its own spin on this festive Chinese nibble by giving it an added sugary dimension by drawing inspiration from one of its most popular desserts, the Dulce de Leche cheesecake. Available in sets of four, the Dulce de Leche mooncake gift set is available from now till 31 August for just HK$288, and from 1 to 25 September for just HK$308.
Golden Leaf at Conrad – For the health-conscious
Those who appreciate reduced sweetness will gravitate towards the low-sugar mooncake and mixed nuts mooncake at Golden Leaf, Conrad Hong Kong. Also available in smaller sizes with four new flavours –Red Bean Paste with Mandarin Peel, Purple Yam in Coconut Flavour, Charcoal-baked Golden Sweet Potato and Black Sesame Paste, these make for delicious treats for those who want to watch their weight, and yet not miss out on this most traditional of customs. Those looking for a touch of luxury can also choose the exquisite range of leather box gift sets, containing mooncakes and the supreme X.O. sauce from Golden Leaf, priced between HK$888 and HK$4,288.
McSorley’s Brewhouse & Grill brings a bit of Irish charm at Elements
Irish brewery chain McSorley’s Brewhouse & Grill opened its latest venue at the rooftop of Elements mall recently, bringing a slice of Celtic charm to the Kowloon side.
Spread over two floors with a deliberate industrial decor, the restobar is casual and laidback, while being appealingly reminiscent of classic Irish pub vibes of no-frills-attached good booze and hearty food. A date-night venue this is not, instead, but if you’re looking for a place to hang out with friends after work, while maybe catching a game on the big screen, McSorley’s Brewhouse & Grill is just the place for you. While there, you could do far worse than grab a bite from the food menu that’s designed to go perfectly with a pint of beer.
On the opening night, guests got a taste of what’s going to be on offer at the gastropub. Check out the video here:
For reservations at McSorley’s Brewhouse & Grill, click here.
Gaucho pays homage to its British roots with new Sunday Night Roast menu
The Argentinian UK-born Gaucho Hong Kong is paying a tribute to its British roots by debuting its first ever Sunday Night Roast menu.
Choose from a menu of five tempting mains served alongside a selection of traditional side dishes for only HK$299.
As any food aficionado would know, at Gaucho, and with any Argentinian asado (the country’s name for roast), the star of the show is beef. For a taste of the renowned Argentine beef, choose from the Bife de Ancho, evenly marbled throughout for a beautifully, full-bodied flavour, or the Bife de Chorizo, a tender cut of sirloin with a strip of juicy crackling.
For those who prefer poultry, the mouthwatering Spatchcock Chicken proves that Gaucho’s other meat options can be equally soul satisfying. Marinated to perfection with oregano and parsley, the chicken is both succulent on the inside and perfectly crispy on the outside. Each mouthful is packed with a delicate touch of juicy flavours and when paired with the crispy roasted potatoes, makes a match made in heaven.
Allowing those who prefer fish to appreciate the roast experience with equal pleasure, Gaucho provides an alternative option with an oven-baked Sea Bass Fillet.
We, of course, had to give the alternative dish a try and were pleasantly surprised. The delicate fish, which is first pan seared and then oven-baked, was perfectly light, moist and tender in flavour. We came to the conclusion, that while this isn’t your typical roast meat, we would 100% order it again.
For those looking for a traditional Sunday roast, Gaucho’s new menu will confidently satisfy your craving. Each delicious meat dish is served alongside a beautiful ensemble of traditional trimmings – carrots, parsnips and roast potatoes, and of course, the obligatory Yorkshire pudding.
And while the main components of a British inspired roast dinner have been fulfilled in this Sunday Night Roast, it would be folly, as a Brit, not to admit that there was in fact, one vital part missing: our beloved gravy. Born and raised in a country where gravy is more than just a condiment, I must confess that this experience would be enhanced even further with a drizzle of liquid comfort. Naturally, one might then ask, would this deter me from returning again? 100% no. In fact, we are already planning our next trip back (but maybe with a cheeky tub of Bisto gravy in hand).
Gaucho’s Sunday Night Roast is available from 6pm – 10pm every Sunday.
Address: 5th Floor, LHT Tower, 31 Queen’s Road Central. To book: Call (852) 2386 8090 or visit www.gauchorestaurants.com
Text: Hira Desai
Street Eats: Top 3 places to sample the best Taipei street food
It’s no secret that the Taiwanese capital of Taipei boasts some of the best culinary treats in Asia. But any visitor eschewing its more humble offerings in favour of fine dining fare is missing out on some truly delightful gastronomic treats. Even if you are short on time, we highly recommend you try these top three hotspots to sample the best Taipei street food.
Yonghe Soy Milk King is the morning go-to for Taipei street food
Breakfast: Yonghe Soy Milk King
Part of a chain that spans across the entire city, Yonghe Soy Milk King serves up the best local breakfasts for the adventurous foodie. As its name suggests, it specializes in soy milk, both sweet and savoury – the latter served with countless condiments reminiscent of Chinese congees. Other must-tries include you tiao (Chinese-style deep-fried savoury churros), shao bing jia dan (flaky bread with an omelette filling), and fan tuan (warm sticky rice wrapped around pork floss or other fillings).
Taipei Fish Market serves fresh and delicious seafood at bargain prices
Given that the Taipei Fish Market was completely renovated in 2012 and now occupies a fancy, air-conditioned building, it’s doesn’t quite meet the category of ‘Taipei street food’. But we highly recommend this classed-up venue as it serves some of the freshest and tastiest seafood fare in the city – and at bargain prices. And there’s even outdoor seating on the fringes of the market to enjoy your newly-bought meals.
Rao He Market boasts countless Taipei street food offerings
Taipei is famous for its night markets, and Rao He Night Market ranks as one of the best. Throngs of vendors line the entirety of Rao He Street, offering everything from grilled squid and deep fried sweet potato balls to pan-fried xiao long bao (soup-filled pork dumplings). If you’re in the mood for more hearty fare, try one of the teppanyaki restaurants along the outer edges of the walkway. Make sure you come with an empty stomach, because you won’t be disappointed with the variety of Taipei street food on offer.
Greyhound Café, Elements: A creative culinary emporium for Hong Kong’s gourmands
Located on the second floor of Elements shopping mall, Greyhound Café has officially unveiled its first flagship restaurant. Staying true to its artistic direction, the new 4,500 square feet restaurant combines authentic Thai dishes served with a creative and contemporary playfulness that will leave you feeling satisfied.
Step inside the restaurant to feel an instant energetic vibe, resembling that of Bangkok. This is further enhanced with mural street art by Bhanu Inkawat, Creative Director of Greyhound.
While the spacious main dining room is the perfect setting for a casual catch up with friends or family, the three private rooms provide the maximum dining enjoyment for groups or even business meetings and lunches. For special events, book a room overlooking the harbour views.
Lobster Tom Yum Super Bowl
As a celebration of the opening, Thai executive chef Niran Vongsumran has whipped up 10 exclusive new dishes, tantalising Hong Kong gourmands.
Adding a touch of innovation and individuality, the new restaurant features an open drinks and dessert bar along with the very first Greyhound Café Noodle Bar. Convenient and fast, the Noodle Bar is the perfect place to grab a snack before a showing at the cinema (located opposite the restaurant) or for those needing a lunch- or dinner-to-go.
Slurp your way through the delectable Lobster Tom Yum Super Bowl (HK$268) made with Boston lobster, scallops, black mussels, baby squid and tiger prawns, served piping hot with the spicy soup and authentic “Thai Mama” instant noodles, just as you would taste in Bangkok’s night markets.
Yellow Crab Curry on Rice
If you are feeling particularly hungry, the popular Yellow Crab Curry on Rice (HK$198) combines an indulgent mix of stir fried crab meat alongside jasmine rice and clear soup of the day. What’s more, there is no need to grapple with de-shelling, saving you from any awkward stares. The creamy consistency paired with the right dash of spice makes for a soul reviving and heartwarmingly satisfying treat. *Warning: You may require a post-lunch nap!
For a lighter option, the Thai-Style Spicy Seafood Salad (HK$158) combines mixed green salad leaves with a grilled giant scallop skewer, poached tiger prawns and sea bass and baby squid, topped with a delicious serving of fried salmon taro, all dressed in a tangy spicy Thai dressing. Wholly refreshing and suitably spicy, this is also a great dish for small groups to share.
Thai-Style Spicy Seafood Salad
Inspired by local Hong Kong dishes, Greyhound Café also introduces a selection of exclusive dishes which will have even the city’s finest gourmands jumping for joy.
The Stir-fried Braised Tendon with Flat Noodles (HK$118) topped with a soft boiled duck egg, effortlessly marries the classic flavours of Thai and Chinese cuisines to create a heavenly masterpiece.
Spicy Hot Pot Seafood Pontoon
For hot pot lovers, the Spicy Hot Pot Seafood Pontoon (HK$248) is just what you need. The hot spicy clear soup with black mussels, tiger prawns, baby squid, jumbo crab meat, US scallops and Enoki mushroom comes served with vegetables and rice vermicelli. Wholesome and hearty, this dish will leave you smiling.
To wash down your treats, opt for one of the many refreshing drinks on the menu offering anything from healthy cocktails (yes, it’s a thing!) to an authentic Thai Iced Tea or Coffee with milk and of course, bubbles.
Mango Crepe Cake
If you have room for dessert, be sure to try a sweet treat or two from the “Mango Mania” summer promotion. With a daily shipment of Thai mangoes, the talented dessert chefs will magically transformed this fruit into a Mango Crepe Cake (HK$78) or Sticky Rice and Mango Parfait (HK$78).
Greyhound Café’s newest edition is one that can easily (and very quickly) become one of your top ‘go-to’ restaurants. Whether you are enjoying a family meal or a business luncheon with your clients, the beautiful airy space paired with the energetic vibes and exquisite dishes will have you returning time and time again.
Spanish restaurant Olé offers nine-course brunch to celebrate 20th anniversary
To celebrate its 20th anniversary in Hong Kong, Spanish restaurant Olé in Central is offering a lavish nine-course brunch. Available on every Saturday and public holiday from now on, the brunch recreates Olé’s most favourite dishes from the past 20 years.
Olé offers seven starters and three welcome couverts
Head Chef, Jesus Pascual, who started his career at three-Michelin-star Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain, emphasizes on authenticity in each dish, right from the starters. Whether it’s the Iberico ham with tomato bread or Gazpacho, a traditional Spanish cold soup, every dish is true to Chef Pascual’s Spanish roots. Our personal favourites were the grilled octopus with paprika and aioli, and the stuffed baby squids in ink sauce. Both the tapas had a rich fullness and a slightly chewy texture which appealed to the seafood lovers in us. The other seafood starter – the sizzling garlic prawns wasn’t a standout dish, sadly, but the next starter – Spanish peppers stuffed with codfish and pepper sauce more than made up for it. The peppers had just the right amount of bite mixed with a slight hidden sweetness which would make it a favourite even with those who don’t enjoy spicy food.
Six main courses at Olé
Moving on to the mains, those who love seafood will be spoilt for choice with the traditional Spanish seafood paella, Spanish squid-ink rice, and codfish in green sauce with clam and shrimp – a staple in Spain’s Basque Country, where Chef Pascual spent some years working. Those feeling more carnivorous can try the Segovia-style roasted suckling pig or the baby lamp chops. The roasted pig was delightful in its minimalism – with a crispy skin on the outside and juicy meat inside. The emphasis was solely on the succulence and sweetness of the meat, undulated by excessive seasoning. The baby lamb chops were again prepared by grilling alone, with just the right amount of seasoning to bring out its meaty flavours. The only downside was that the meat itself was a tad dry though – but with the fat fries and the veggies, it made a rather wholesome meal.
Four desserts to choose from
With hardly any room left for desserts, we decided to try the lightest thing on the menu – fried milk with toffee reduction. Surprisingly light and fluffy, it was just the right note with which to end the rather generous spread. Someone looking for something more decadent must, however, try the Spanish churros with hot chocolate.
With a Spanish chef, rustic Spanish décor and emphatically modest Spanish cuisine, it seems that Olé has managed a winning combination.
Olé Brunch Details Available: Every Saturday and Public Holiday (12:00pm to 3:00pm)
Price: Adult $380, Kids (4-9 years old) $228 (+10 % service charge)
Address: 1/F, Shun Ho Tower, 24-30 Ice House Street, Central
Reservation: (852) 2523 8624
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Colourful cuisine with Veuve Clicquot and Aqua and Armani/Aqua
Veuve Clicquot, together with Aqua and Armani/Aqua, promises to make your life very colourful this summer. Throughout August, the champagne brand and the restaurants are offering a vibrant gourmet experience, imagined through the colours of Veuve Clicquot champagne.
Talking about the gastronomical experiment, Chef Alberto Hernández says, “Colours stimulate the senses and enliven the palate. The three dishes that we have created are designed to captivate the eye and excite the taste buds, with a unique feature of inspiring gourmets to add their own artistic touch.”
The first course is a tribute to the Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label. Chef Hernández pairs this iconic champagne with Japanese oyster and scallop ceviche, complete with a bold saffron cream to create a dramatic effect and complement the rich yellow colour palette of the Yellow Label bottle.
The second course – a slow-cooked Norwegian salmon, with king prawns and caviar – is even more striking and pairs well with the ripe flavours of the Veuve Clicquot Extra Brut Extra Old.
The most attractive dish is, however, the dessert – an Amarena cloud cheesecake framed with pink rainbow sauces that goes perfectly with Veuve Clicquot’s Champagne Rosé.
The PR blurb for the event sums it up in a catchy way – “Life tastes better in colour!” Well, we don’t know if life will taste better in colour, but your Instagram handle definitely will!
