Category: Dining

The Roe Down: Handcrafted with feeling, Artifact presents artistic yet approachable caviar-infused Japanese cuisine

Tucked away below Central’s traffic horns and meandering pedestrians – along what has become the go-to canteen of people in stilettos and navy suits – is Artifact, a newly opened upscale chef’s table Japanese restaurant uniting the different variations of caviar with fine dishes. Paired harmoniously with jet-fresh ingredients flown directly from Japan, this whole caviar experience is savoured at a deep-blue upholstered 14-seat dining counter and ultra-sleek contemporary speakeasy bar set within a casual basement food hall. These diverse concepts converge in the creative mind of Chef Sato Kiyoshi, whose vision has brought eccentric Japanese cuisine to the energetic epicentre of Hong Kong – in the depths of BaseHall 02 in Jardine House.

It is the quality of food and ingredients presented in a delectable style that sets Artifact apart from the hundreds of other Japanese restaurants scattered around the city. In true Japanese fashion, calling in an artisanal expert like Chef Kiyoshi was an important puzzle piece in its realisation. Scrimping on quality is never an option for the head chef, who says of his edible masterpieces: “It’s a combination of texture, foundation, ingredients and balance. For me, a perfect dish is always driven by a feeling or an inspiration.”

artifact

The speakeasy bar offers separate and interchangeable menus; it is only at the chef’s table that a single menu is strictly adhered to, omakase-style. However, with an intricacy based upon ‘shun’ – the Japanese philosophy of seasonality – the menu adapts constantly to fold in the finest produce on the market. “We are an ingredients-focussed restaurant, so the menu changes according to what is the best for the season,” says Kiyoshi. “From the first menu to the next one, for instance, we changed chocolate and coffee dessert to milk and ginger, and wagyu to tenderloin.” It is often said that we eat with our eyes first. At Artifact, the food looks just as good as it tastes and all the dishes are pretty spectacular. And so, the caviar chronicle begins. With a name defined as a handmade object or the remains of one, Artifact takes pride in the craftwork that goes into the construction of each tasting menu – both for its four-course lunch and eight-course dinner.

Also Read: Omakase Code: Understanding is the key to enjoying Hong Kong’s hottest Japanese food fad

 

 

The four-course set embraces appetisers of Miso Cheese with Baerii Caviar, and Namerou, Goma and Kaluga Caviar, followed by a choice of entrée between Polmard Beef with Kaki Potato and Obsiblue Prawn with Ginger Orange Ponzu and Oyster. For the main course, there are options of Hokkaido Pork, Carrot and Wakami; Toothfish, Kabocha and Razor Clams; or Wagyu with Maitake and Soy, along with a traditional Tamago Kake Gohan (Japanese egg and rice) to accompany the meal and a seasonal dessert to wrap it up.

Caviar is central to the dinner journey, where the dégustation menu includes highlights such as Namerou and Goma with Kaluga; Takoyaki and Rakkyo with Ossetra; and Carabineros with Smoked Miso Cream and Baerii. Kinmedai, Kabu and Yuzu is another wonderful course. If the caviar rush becomes too much, a carefully curated wine list spans an international selection of Champagnes, rosés, whites and reds to cool racing minds and calm overworked taste buds.

The ambience is chic and bustling, catering to smart mid-towners in need of a Japanese fix. The act of sitting around a counter enhances the Artifact experience, as Kiyoshi elaborates: “We aim to offer the best dining experience as we can with the counter dining setting. It gives me and my team more opportunities to interact with customers. Diners can also see what’s brewing behind the kitchen and the preparation that goes into each dish.”

The truth of these words is evident as human connections extend from those relaxed at the counter enjoying their food to everyone labouring diligently within to create it. In a city like Hong Kong, where life whizzes by at almost twice the speed of a watch’s tick, Artifact stands apart because warmth, style and artfulness abound throughout the entire place. It lives in the buzzy dining room, the service, the interiors and, above all, in the sumptuous, well-considered meals. It is a scene and a dining room you want to lean into, linger over and – without question – indulge in.

artifact

Artifact, Shop 5 and 7, LG/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong. +852 6468 8762. artifactbar.com

(Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Artifact)

The Most Delightful and Luxurious Afternoon Tea Experiences in Hong Kong

As a tradition introduced in 19th century Britain, the afternoon tea experience has become wildly popular all over the world for allowing people to enjoy a decadent dining experience in which they get to taste a range of palatable sweet and savoury delicacies presented ardently on a tiered plate stand alongside beverages of their choice. Much like many other happening cities in the world, Hong Kong is also home to a selection of afternoon tea experiences that cannot be missed, and we have listed some here.

Japanese-Inspired “Betsu Bara” Afternoon Tea

afternoon tea experience

Fittingly named the ‘Betsu Bara’ afternoon tea, a Japanese phrase meaning ‘separate stomach’, this tea experience at the Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour, in collaboration with Luna Cake, offers a range of sweet and savoury delicacies. Some bite-sized dishes include Salmon Tamagoyaki, Unagi Taco, Matcha Opera Cake, Yuzu Chocolate Sphere, and many more. In addition to this, there are all-you-can-eat buffets serving ice creams and some beloved desserts from Japan such as Dorayaki, Taiyaki and Soufflé Pancake.

Where: The Farmhouse, Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour
When: Until June 25, 2023 (on weekends and public holidays)
Price: HK$688 for two people
Click here to make your reservation.

The Peninsula Afternoon Tea On The Harbour

afternoon tea experience

For its latest afternoon tea iteration, Peninsula has partnered with the Star Ferry to offer a truly unique high tea experience that takes you on a luxury cruise ride accompanied by live music. As splendid as this is its selection of sweet and savoury offerings like Citrus jelly and vanilla cheesecake; Mont-blanc, Chocolate cream on a sesame biscuit; Tuna Niçoise on focaccia; and Green asparagus and cheddar quiche.

Where: World Star Ferry or The Lobby, The Peninsula
When: Until July 2, 2023 (on weekends and public holidays)
Price: HK$650 for one person
Click here to make your reservation.

Häagen-Dazs™ x Madame Fù“The Afternoon Tea of Afternoon Teas”

afternoon tea experience

Madame Fù has joined forces with the beloved and globally popular ice cream brand Häagen-Dazs for its latest afternoon tea experience. It is a truly decadent experience that matches the colourfulness of Spring with its picks of desserts and savouries. This afternoon tea from Madame Fù boasts many mouth-watering dishes including Purple Sweet Potato Choux, Matcha Alfajores with Red Bean Dulce de Leche, Spinach and Mozzarella Stuffed Button Mushrooms and others.

Where: Madame Fù
When: April and May 2023 (weekdays and weekends)
Price: HK$338 for one person and HK$550 for two people
Click here to take a look at the full menu.

Mandarin Afternoon Tea

afternoon tea experience

Dubbed the most famous afternoon tea experience in Hong Kong, the Mandarin Oriental is known to feature a spectrum of flavorful and easily-loved delicacies. Perfect for both people who love sweet and savoury dishes, the Mandarin afternoon tea has the best picks of scones, sandwiches and desserts on its menu. Hong Kong’s Mandarin Oriental also has its own exclusive tea consisting of oolong tea leaves, vanilla, lavender and other ingredients that is truly a flavour bomb. This much-appreciated afternoon tea set is also available for takeaway from The Mandarin Cake Shop.

Where: Clipper Lounge, Mandarin Oriental
When: Weekdays and weekends
Price: HK$428 for one person and HK$828 for two people
Click here to make a reservation.

Refined Afternoon Tea and Savoury Bites

afternoon tea experience

Taking all the steps to elevate the traditional afternoon tea experience to something more modern, the afternoon tea set at Rosewood Hong Kong is both a feast to the eyes and mouth for how visually appealing and tasty each dish on the menu is. It is complete with an iconic range of traditional finger sandwiches, pastries, chocolates and caviars that are sure to leave any person full and satisfied.

Where: The Butterfly Room, Rosewood Hong Kong
When: Weekdays and weekends
Price: Starting at HK$548 for one person
Click here to make a reservation.

Also Read: Where to eat in Kennedy Town? The Best Gastronomy in the area

Where to eat in Kennedy Town? The Best Gastronomy in the area

Kennedy Town is a happening place with both locals and foreigners residing in the area, so it is not surprising that you can stumble upon a restaurant on almost every street in the area, and it goes without saying that there are so many different cuisines to pick from. To make things simple for your next dinner outing, we have put together the best restaurants in Kennedy Town.

Dough Bros

best restaurants Kennedy Town

Almost every foodie in Hong Kong will pick Dough Bros as the restaurant to go to if you are looking for tasty and freshly baked pizzas. Made right after you order, the pizzas which are straight out of the oven, first impress your olfactory senses with the flavours of the sauces and the smell of the warm dough hitting your nose. The best part, each pizza comes with a dipping sauce so every bite of the pizza – even the crusts – taste heavenly until the last bite. If you are a sweet tooth you may want to opt for one of their doughnuts that are loaded with cream fillings. More details are here. 

Sheung Hei

best restaurants Kennedy Town

What are the tell-tale signs that an eatery serves the best food? It has people queuing in front of it. Cantonese restaurant Sheung Hei falls under this category too with locals and sometimes foreigners seen waiting to dine at the spot. Most people come here to try Sheung Hei’s Michelin-recommended Claypot rice which is cooked with a charcoal stove that gives the dish its unique smoky flavour. The other delicacies to try here are the Pan-Fried Prawns with Soy Sauce, the Peking Ribs and more.

Clay Oven

best restaurants Kennedy Town

Clay Oven gives the vibes of a traditional home in India with its predominantly brown-coloured interior decorated with indo-style paintings. Even the serving vessels mimic the silverware seen in the subcontinent. Much like getting the set up to the point, Clay Oven also delivers diverse flavours from India through its foods. There are a variety of popularly-loved delicacies like biriyanis, tikkas and many more. P.S.: When ordering, remember to inform your spice level. More details are here. 

Smash’d

best restaurants Kennedy Town

With a confined and cosy setting, Smash’d is a resto-bar that is particularly known for its burgers which are made with organic beef, but of course, their other dishes are as great too, and so is their service. The staff think way ahead of you and provide you with anything you will definitely want during your meal. Ordered a wings platter? They will give you a cup full of tissues and a sanitised wet wipe. Also, their regularly-ordered and loved dish is the Classic Smash’d Cheese Burger. If you like blue cheese, you may want to try Le Fromage Burger. More details are here.

Shoreditch

best restaurants Kennedy Town

Shoreditch is always buzzing with crowds with both locals and ex-pats coming here for the lively atmosphere and the mouth-watering food. In order to give this award-winning modern British restaurant its authenticity, its chef, Eddie, went to the top restaurants in the UK to bring to Hong Kong, the best dishes served there. Some of the commonly-appreciated foods at this resto-bar are its Tomahawk steak and selection of traditional roasts that are only available during lunchtime. More details are here.

Also Read: Steaks don’t come any finer than Buenos Aires Polo Club

Blend & Grind

best restaurants Kennedy Town

Initially opened by fitness enthusiast Jonny Rees as a smoothie spot, especially for athletes and health buffs, Blend & Grind has now extended its business menu-wise and geographically. Today, their menu provides you with a wide range of options in terms of food and drinks. Blend & Grind is particularly talked about for its variety of Espresso martinis. Moreover, the eatery also has a pet-friendly space in the front for pet owners who want their pawed children near them. More details are here.

Alvy’s

best restaurants Kennedy Town

A restaurant that will make you feel like you are eating in Manhattan, Alvy’s has quite a rustic vibe to it and serves the best range of craft beers and pizzas in the town. A perfect diner for large groups, Alvy’s boasts more than 20 bourbon varieties and 14 different craft beers on tap. So, if you are looking for a place to go for drinks and dinner with friends, then this ought to be your first pick. More details are here.

Pici Pasta Bar

best restaurants Kennedy Town

For all those Pasta fans out there, Pici is a literal haven given their varying kinds of pasta that are all equally amazing. Their food dominates in terms of quality because they use fresh portions of pasta that are handmade every day. For that authentic Italian experience, it is recommended that you pair your pasta with a glass of wine. Their menu changes on a monthly basis, and there is even a special Easter menu that will be served from April 5 to 10, 2023. More details are here.

Also Read: Six most expensive local delicacies in Hong Kong

Amor Agora – Delivering an authentic dining experience to Hong Kong

Incorporating elements that feel like both a hymn to the past and of striking contemporary relevance, Chef Antonio Oviedo serves up a truly fabulous fusion of Spanish tasting menus. Very much to his credit, he ably combines prime Spanish seasonal ingredients with a range of innovative cooking techniques, all superbly served within the refined rustic-luxe space that comprises Agora, his Central-set bijou bistro.

As soon as you cross its threshold, the restaurant’s modern Mediterranean vibe is all but unmissable. Its ambience is further enhanced by its choice of beige velvet-covered chairs and padded walls, all of which finely complement its existing granite columns. Beyond that, the eatery’s minimalistic 24-seater space includes a private dining room that seats up to 10 guests, as well as two individual tables. Contemporary dashes of colour, meanwhile, come courtesy of the warm pin lights while a sea of red-marbled table tops soften the space, artfully counterpointing the brick accent walls and exposed ceiling.

agora

Very much dominating the central space, however, is a communal table that runs the length of the entrance hall, providing just about the perfect harbour for those on a casual date night or looking to wash down their solo dinner with a glass of booze from their more than 20 Spanish appellations and over 90 Spanish labels. The venue’s long counter piece, however, serves as the main interior statement, with its shiny red lacquered front and marble countertop, to which Chef Antonio does all his impressive displays of peerless culinary expertise.

agora

Explaining the thinking behind the look and feel of his establishment, the chef says: “My goal has always been to express my Spanish heritage by both showcasing our much-loved cuisine and creating a restaurant where the ambience is redolent of my country’s unique cultural heritage.”

agora

In line with his avowed mission, he devised a tasting menu which, while largely authentically Spanish, is also bold enough to allow for a number of interesting digressions. Overall, he offers two seasonal chef’s degustation menus – the Menú Ágora and the Menú Gran Ágora.

agora

As a titillating opener, the Verdial extra virgin olive oil, cultivated from firm and plump Gordal olives, immediately evokes one of the classic tapas bars of Madrid. This imaginative selection of appetisers is then completed by an ample serving of Choricero dried chili pepper – a dehydrated, non-spicy variety of Spanish red pepper and a classic seasoning of Basque cuisine – and Gamoneu, a fatty, lightly smoked Spanish cheese made from a combination of goat, cow and sheep’s milk.

agora

Following this eminently intriguing preamble, is a recent addition to the menu – Vainas, a warming and savoury green bean soup with a touch of olive oil. This is ably followed by Rubia Gallega Tartare – the meat of a highly prized cattle breed, which is distinguished by its beautiful yet subtle marbling and its traditionally spicy, slightly briny flavour. Beautifully served with cured mujol roe, green peas purée, crispy wheat tart and tomato bread topped with Iberico ham, this proves a true treat. As does the Setas, a delightfully earthy bouquet of assorted wild mushrooms – all embellished with migas, chorizo and mushroom espuma.

agora

Mar y Muntanya features Mediterranean Sea cucumber with teardrop peas, black pudding and a stew of pork, beef stomach and chickpeas. Accompanying this is Soccarat, a dish that forefronts the toasty, crispy and umami-rich bottom part of the paella alongside fresh carabinero and carabinero aioli. Another recent addition is the Lubina, Atlantic Sea bass served with ajada spiced mashed potato and goose barnacles. More of a confirmed favourite meanwhile, is the Venado Venison, served with potato chips, quince, glazed chestnut, sweet potato purée and venison bone jus.It’s best to end the whole dining experience with Flor de Azahar, a delightful dessert made with orange blossom, almond and saffron.It wraps the whole experience with a perfect confectionary ending. And just like the fine dining scene of Spain, Chef Antonio hopes Agora becomes one of those places that’s been around and stays around forever. “It has such a duality between palatability and beauty,” he says.

Agora, G/F, D Hall, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong, +852 3568 6834

(Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Agora)

Also Read: Chueca makes Spanish tapas more inventive

Omakase Code: Understanding is the key to enjoying Hong Kong’s hottest Japanese food fad

omakase code

Roughly translating as “I’ll leave it up to you”, Omakase is a distinctly Japanese style of food preparation, one where a skilled chef is entrusted to create a bespoke culinary experience for would-be diners. The only restriction is that it has to be attuned to their particular preferences and use solely the finest available ingredients.

It’s a style of dining that has become increasingly popular over recent years. This has seen it both move beyond Japan and find favour in restaurants serving a somewhat different fare to the sushi solely on offer in first-generation Omakase establishments.

omakase code

Despite this broadening of the initial concept, the appeal of Omakase is still most clearly apparent in those sushi and sashimi restaurants where a bond of trust characterises the key customer-chef relationship. Put simply, the customer must have faith in the chef’s ability to create a unique and delicious meal, while the chef, in turn, must believe the diners in question are sufficiently discerning to appreciate his culinary artistry. This is why, for the optimum Omakase experience there should be no more than six-to-eight diners, all of them close enough to the chef to freely interact as he goes about his work.

Given that sashimi and sushi are the two most popular Japanese dishes, any chef skilled enough to prepare them Omakase style will seldom find himself surplus to requirements. Such individuals, after all, will have to have a keen mastery of an array of knife skills, as well as a deep understanding of how to truly present premium ingredients at their very best.

omakase code

The comparative rarity of such culinary craftsmen, however, appears to have been no obstacle to Omakase’s conquest of Hong Kong, with the city now home to a growing number of such establishments. Typically specialising in the cuisine of one particular part of Japan, whether Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka, the chefs at all these restaurants are undoubtedly highly skilled and widely experienced when it comes to faithfully recreating their home country’s most-desired dishes.

omakase code

Given the number of such establishments now competing for your custom, it’s well worth taking a little time to choose the one most likely to meet your needs. As a first step, try and assess the reputation of every prospective restaurant by reading the related reviews. It is also important to determine the likely per-diner cost of each establishment, particularly as dining in Omakase style in Hong Kong can prove prohibitively expensive.

Another factor to consider when choosing just where to dine is the specific type of cuisine on offer. While many restaurants focus solely on traditional Japanese cuisine, others have more of modern fusion menus or may have chosen to cater more to local tastes.

omakase code

Finally, it is important to consider the ambience of each particular restaurant. Many Omakase restaurants are intimate and offer a distinctly personal dining experience, something that may not appeal to everyone.

Once you have chosen, booked and arrived at your favoured Omakase restaurant, it is then important to clearly communicate your preferences to the chef. Let him know what type of food you enjoy, as well as any dietary restrictions he should be aware of. Without this level of transparency on your part, it is unlikely your needs and expectations will be entirely met.

omakase code

Bearing all of these factors in mind, you are more than equipped to fully immerse yourself in the finest Omakase experience Hong Kong has on offer. All you have to do now is choose just which one…

Read the full version of the article in the March 2023 issue (pg: 116) to discover the best Omakase establishments in Hong Kong. Available on the Gafencu app on Android and Apple.   

L P Eminence – The Taste of French Riviera in Hong Kong

Priding itself on bringing more than a hint of the French Riviera to Hong Kong, LPM offers a famously warm welcome to any and all would-be diners who make their way to its upscale – yet distinctly friendly – Central locale. Clearly keen to emphasise the absolute freshness of all the produce deemed worthy of inclusion in any of its irrefutably fine fare, many of the ingredients-to-be are among the first things you’ll spot once you step inside – all lovingly showcased in a series of see through containers atop the marbled prep counter.

Beyond that, a light colour palette prevails throughout the interior, one that extends to the crockery, table linen and soft furnishings. All of this is deliciously – yet unobtrusively – soundtracked by a fine selection of jazz with a distinctly Mediterranean feel. All in all, it’s hard to summon a more authentic locale, whether for lunch, brunch or a leisurely dinner.

At the heart of all this Gallic gourmandry is Adriano Catttaneo, the establishment’s recently appointed Global Executive Chef. Clearly keen to make his mark, he views his reimagined brunch selection as a potential game-changer within the ever-competitive Hong Kong restaurant community. Thankfully, it is an assertion more than borne out by the quality of his able fusion of the best French-Mediterranean cuisine and several reinvented Italian flagship dishes.

Summing up what he sees as the eatery’s USP, he says: “What really makes us stand out is our unique approach to the concept of sharing. Beyond that, we’re all about lightness, something that is as evident in our dishes as in our overall ambience.”

As a testament to this, several delectably light dishes comprise the opening salvo of our sampling experience. Of particular note here is the Vegetable Terrine – an elegant composition of layered eggplant, zucchini, basil pesto, tomato fondue and mozzarella, all exquisitely wrapped in a fetching array of red Romano peppers.

It would, however, be remiss not to also give a shout-out to the Artichoke Salad, which alluringly marries a sliced globe artichoke heart with dried cherry tomatoes. The artful addition of basil leaves and basil oil takes things up a notch or two, while the final transcendent touch comes courtesy of a truly flawless truffle vinaigrette. How to follow such succulent sensations? Well, the Turbot with Fish Soup and Artichoke is certainly up to the challenge. Comprising a whole grilled turbot served in an intensely flavoured saffron fish soup, the dish comes lovingly garnished with fondue, charred baby artichoke, basil leaves and saffron mayo. An equally superb fish course is the Grilled Red Mullet, Sauce Vierge with Coriander, a dish replete with premium ingredients, most notably the mullet fillets, simply served on a bed of minty guacamole and coriander puree.

Next to the table is the King Crab and Tomato Tart, a sublime combination of king crab, creamy avocado, crunchy green apple, buttery gem lettuce, and herbaceous basil with a topping of tomato and chives. This is followed by one of Cattaneo’s signature seafood offerings – Langoustine Risotto with Mushrooms. While the sea-sweet, deliciously delicate lobster deservedly takes top billing here, its appeal is effortlessly enhanced by the subtle flavouring of the accompanying mushroom duxelles.

The main course then reaches an appropriately hearty climax with the arrival of an eminently carnivore-friendly Osso Bucco. Here the melt-in-the-mouth braised veal shin has been cooked to perfection and comes with an A-team supporting cast of premium fresh seasonal vegetables and a carrot and spring onion garnish,

After such a splendid repast, there is really only one thing left to do – dive into the dessert. Once again, LPM doesn’t disappoint, with its mouthwatering Mont Blanc featuring a melee of blackcurrant compote meringue, chestnut cream and, emphasising its hint of truly luxurious indulgence, a sprinkle of gold leaf.

From start to finish, entree to exit, the under-new management LPM is a pure joy to experience.

LPM Restaurant & Bar, H Queens 23-29 Stanley Street, Hong Kong

+852 3568 6834

(Text: Joseff Musa; Photos: LPM)

Pasta Master – A Lux’s Chef Chung

Chef Wai Chung Kwan has just one clear objective in mind for A Lux, his upscale Italian / French restaurant, which nestles behind distinctive steel and glass doors just by the grand English-pillared staircase on Duddell Street in the heart of Central.

In essence, regardless of whether they are enjoying a quick lunch or a more leisurely dinner, he wants to transform the way his ever-growing number of famously loyal patrons engage with Italian and French cuisine. Expanding on this, he says: “My mission is to bring a truly authentic pasta experience to Hong Kong”.

A man of his word, the menu he offers within the 60-seat restaurant majors on pasta dishes, all served on distinctive wide and shallow ceramic platters. Adding to the ambiance is a series of thoughtfully chosen oil on canvas artworks, all help to bring a modish Mediterranean feel to the restaurant’s distinctly downtown Hong Kong setting.

And then there is its interior. All swathed in green and blush pink velvet, gilded gold-plated metals and light and seamless wood parquet. While the windows are bare, they are fetchingly accented with lamp posts and an etched water fountain. The lighting overall meanwhile, remains artfully subdued, bestowing glamour and a sense of having suddenly been relocated to somewhere rather special. Sharing the intent behind this, Chef Chung says: “When anyone enters, I want them to feel they have left Hong Kong far behind them”.

In terms of the food itself, to woo his patrons into trying something new, Chung has personally crafted a tasting menu of “secret” handmade pasta. Available as a tempting alternative to the restaurant’s more conventional set lunch and dinner menus, this mystery pasta changes from day to day.

Gnocchi, asparagus, Parma ham and a cheese salad

This begins with Gnocchi, asparagus, Parma ham and a cheese salad. The Gnocchi proves the perfect foil for its vegetable, meat and dairy companions, with the salty notes and slight oily aroma of the ham bestowing a pleasantly lingering aftertaste. This was then followed with Tortellini and ham broth. Here, just the smallest bite into the Tortellini is enough to release its rich filling, which delivers an eminently satisfying cavalcade of competing flavours.

Tortellini and ham broth

With his keen mastery of how to perfectly blend ingredients, textures and tastes, even the chef’s pasta – a foodstuff often merely deployed to provide bulk – is truly remarkable, perfectly chewy and never relegated to a supporting role in any dish. Indeed, once you’ve been spoilt by Chef Chung’s handmade pasta, you may never again settle for shop-bought.

Chitarra, carabineros prawn, tomato and basil

It was then on to the mains, with much anticipated Chitarra, carabineros prawn, tomato and basil opening the proceedings. A distinctly square-surfaced take on pasta, Chitarra also
boasts a complex flavour and an enchanting synergy with the accompanying sauce. Chef Chung confesses the chittara owes much of its chewiness to his discrete addition of just the right amount of durum wheat flour.

Pappardelle, mushroom ragout and truffle cream

Next to the table is Pappardelle, mushroom ragout and truffle cream. The freshly made pappardelle boasts a rich egg flavour. This is soon followed by another standout-Fettuccine, wagyu beef cheek and shaved truffle.

Fettuccine, wagyu beef cheek and shaved truffle

Reassuringly flat and thick, the fettuccini has a passing resemblance to the tagliatelle favoured in northern Italy. Chef Chung is insistent that only the finest Australian A5 Wagyu beef cheek can truly embody his individual take on this alluring culinary creation. Its inclusion, together with the rich gravy and the premium handmade fettuccine, make for a heady combination, one that forms a rare treat for the palate. And that’s before you even begin to engage with the fresh black diamond truffle slices that both garnish and crown this singular yet multi-sensory indulgence.

If you hanker for fine Italian and French cuisine, seamlessly segueing between the experimental and the traditional, then A Lux has to make your must eat list, factoring in the attentive craftsmanship of Chef Chung, the superb service and the immensely relaxing and welcoming vibe.

 

A Lux, Level M2, 13 Baskerville House, Duddell Street, Central.

+852 2663 9938

 

(Text: Joseff Musa Photos: A – Lux)

Steaks don’t come any finer than Buenos Aires Polo Club

You are never too far away from a decent steak restaurant in Hong Kong. There is, however, only one such establishment that offers a guaranteed respite from the city life, complete with modishly dimmed vintage chandeliers and a superabundance of gold-framed equestrian artworks – The Buenos Aires Polo Club. Where else?

Main Dining Room

With it s exclusive polo club ambiance enhanced by its strategic scarcity of external windows, the restaurant’s singular passion for grilling is aromatically announced as soon as you cross its threshold, with its sizzling dishes ubiquitously prepared in the kitchen facilities cannily set right by the entranceway. Asked just why its cuisine is quite so appealing, Head Chef Patrick Shimada says “What makes our steaks and dishes unique is our commitment to preparing the old school way – over open fire.”

Head Chef Patrick Shimada

 As an apt testament to this, within the restaurant’s all-curved wood and genuine leather swathed interior, an extensive Argentinian-inspired menu is served over no-fuss white and silver ceramics, skillets and wooden board, with Scallop Ceviche, Chimichurris and Spinach and Provolone Empanadas comprising the opening salvo. Seated in the green room, with new-age jazz tinkling in the background, elegant threepiece- suited serving hosts pair every plate with a glass of club martini.

Spinach and Provolone Empanadas

With culinary and cultural concerns both taking centre stage, Chef Shimada prides himself on crafting a truly contemporary oasis, one where tradition and gastronomic greatness seamlessly blend to create the eatery’s General Pico Black Angus, deliciously grilled traditional Asado (barbecue) style. Tender and lean with a pleasing minerally aftertaste, this is a carnivore heaven.

From left: Truffle Fries Provenzal, General Pico Black Angus, Creamed Spinach, Grilled Bone Marrow

Meanwhile, the following Tenderloin El Camino is simply in a league of its own. Wrapped in cheesecloth and infused with herbs and rock salt before being subjected to roasting coals, it is carved immediately in front of the dining table.

Tbone

Sometimes just one word won’t suffice to sum up something particularly sumptuous and that’s a maxim that certainly applies to the restaurant’s wide range of Chef Selected Cuts, with such classic main stays as Polo Club Tomahawk, Gold Tenderloin and Bone-in Ribeye El Dorado, all available and all imported from the United States, with the kind of rich marbling only corn-fed cattle can produce. As if that wasn’t indulgent enough, the Truffle Fries Provenzal, cooked in duck fat, takes things to a whole new level of delicious.

From left: Wedge Salad, Truffle Fries Provenzal, Polo Club Tomahawk, Creamed Spinach

The sheer flaming majesty of the menu items on offer isn’t however, solely restricted to the main course. Indeed, it’s just about possible that the best has been saved for the last, in the form of the dessert serving of the truly marvellous, mouthwatering Malvaviscos. Essentially marshmallows stuffed with dulce de leche ice cream and roasted by the dining table over an open flame, they couldn’t come more highly recommended and could almost give the impression that you’ve been transported to some bonfire-lit feast back on the Argentinian pampas. It’s a comparison Chef Shimada is keen to nurture given that his own passion for grilling dates back to his childhood years, with fond memories of himself and his father cooking over an open fire.

Malvaviscos

All in all, the Buenos Aires Polo Club, as handsome a steakhouse as you are likely to find in downtown Hong Kong, undeniably pays due homage to Argentina’s vibrant grilling culture and the love of the Sport of Kings, while also being the ideal spot to sate your curiosity as to just what constituted an early 1900’s members-only dining establishment. With a menu that is unashamedly focused on unabashed freshness and showcasing the finest traditional Argentinian cuisine, it’s everything you could hope for from a steak house. And so much more.

 

Buenos Aires Polo Club. 7/F, 33 Wyndham Street, Central

+852 2321 8681 www.bapoloclub.com

 

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Buenos Aires Polo Club

Auor, offering unfiltered chef Edward Voon Experience

For some, preparing food is a simple necessity, a daily obligation to be joylessly observed. For others, it is far more of a journey, with curating fine cuisine and creating fantastic fusion fare, an ongoing learning experience and an essential part of a lifelong love affair. There is no doubt that Singapore-born chef Edward Voon falls very much into the latter category.

Arguably, the very apotheosis of his avowed ambition to sate appetites in his own inimitable style is Auor (pronounced ‘hour’), his new international fine dining establishment. For Voon, who more than distinguished himself as the culinary tour-de-force behind Le Pan, his latest venture is all about delivering a fine fusion of the very best Asian dishes with all the exquisite nuances of French haute cuisine.

Offering two menus, The Six Rounds (HK$1,680) and Menu Dégustation (HK$1,980), a six- and eight-plate fare of innovative dishes, each pays homage to a particular Asian cuisine style highlighting flavours from Thailand, India, Malaysia and, especially, Singapore, Voon’s home country. Outlining his mission/menu, he says: “Auor’s flavour profile is unique to me and close to my heart. It’s based on my travels, my taste and my experience of trying to understand people and discover cultures. It is a testament to my journey to date.”

Awakening the palette with a sensual, fresh and vibrant overture, The Six Rounds experience commences with smoky Petuna Ocean Trout, encased in sushi vinegar jelly and pickled green chili while generously topped with a serving of Oscietra caviar. This proves an invigorating mix of fulsome flavours, perfectly preparing the palate for the rich and savoury notes of the dishes set to soon follow.

The first of these is a moderately magnificent mollusc, the undoubted hero of the eminently edible Ezo Abalone, a classically understated cold noodle dish. Served ‘drunken’ atop a bed of cold ‘Xiang Zao Lu’ somen (thin wheat flour noodles in Chinese rice wine), it’s a flavour combination that packs a perhaps unexpectedly hefty punch. This is largely down to its sensationally savory broth, which artfully combines fragrant shiso leaves with the finest quality bonito flakes. Clearly prepared days in advance, it’s a flavour combination that owes much to its leisurely infusion.

Equally impressive is the Tandoori Crab Au Gratin, one of the undoubted highlights of the eight-plate menu. Although all but aglow with rich and fragrant Indian spices, this is ably balanced by the Comté cheese gratin and a sumptuous sprinkling of crispy bites of crumbled tandoor-baked chicken skin. A simply sensational fusion of fine east-meets-west cuisine, it is a dish that effortlessly orchestrates the rich mineral notes of Pacific crab meat, lobster stock, fragrant spices and creamy cheese.

The delectably tender Australian Kiwami Wagyu, meanwhile, also proved a truly satisfying melt-in-your-mouth serving, as well as the one most likely to delight the more meat-minded diner. A reimagining of Singaporean Black Pepper Crab, the intriguing incorporation of the peppery roughness and fruity aroma of Sarawak black pepper glaze, a Singaporean staple, made this very much a love letter to Chef Voon’s homeland. The red wine sauce – poured tableside – unites the complex tantalising flavours of the beef and the sweet tamarind black pepper glaze, melding them gorgeously with the puree, to complete the dish’s final flourish.

Expanding upon his unique philosophy, Voon says: “I want my customers to walk out of this restaurant knowing that the food was cooked by Edward from his heart – I think that is very important. I want them to feel that every dish that comes out, comes from my inner soul to the table. It’s like heart-to-table rather than farm-to table.”

 

Auor. 4/F, no. 88 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai
(852) 2866 4888 auor.com.hk

 

(Text: Roberliza Eugenio Photos: Auor)

Grand Majestic Sichuan adds a fine-dining sensibility to Sichuan cuisine

Contrary to what most people would believe, Sichuan cuisine is not all about mouth-numbing spice – although it is famous for it. In fact, the majority of Sichuan dishes sit on a spectrum of spicy, sweet, sour, savoury, smoky and aromatic. And at Grand Majestic Sichuan, Head Chef Robert Wong delivers, alongside Sichuan cuisine-expert Fuchsia Dunlop, the dynamic combination of flavours native to his hometown Chengdu perfectly.

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Dining room and bar area with Gucci wallpaper at the back

Not merely a Sichuan restaurant, it goes above and beyond expectations with plentiful attention to detail, from the food to the service and even the ambience. Striking red velvet upholstery, lush carpets, lavish interiors dressed in marble, silk and Gucci wallpaper, and a spacious terrace with a view of Central’s high rises, Grand Majestic Sichuan transports diners to Hong Kong of the ’60s, an era of luxurious nightclubs.

Even a trip to the washroom is made memorable with the unique experience of pouring a flute of Champagne and spraying on Chanel No.5. “We like to say that we offer good Sichuan cuisine with European service,” notes Wong.

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From left: Bang Bang Ji, Liang Ban Wo Sun Si, and Deng Ying Niu Rou (Celtuce strips, shredded three-yellow chicken and wafer-thin beef

After an impressive tour of the restaurant – a precursor of its eclectic delights–we sit down to sample a selection of signatures, beginning with three cold dishes. Deng Ying Niu Rou is wafer-thin beef tossed with chilli oil and sesame seeds. Its delicate, crispy texture results from the finely sliced beef being dehydrated, steamed, then fried – an interesting twist to the chewier Bak Kwa jerky many people are familiar with.

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From left: Bang Bang Ji, Liang Ban Wo Sun Si, and Deng Ying Niu Rou (Celtuce strips, shredded three-yellow chicken and wafer-thin beef

Next is the classic cold offering of Bang Bang Ji – poached and shredded “three-yellow” chicken tossed in spicy peppercorn oil and doused with mildly sweet, nutty sesame sauce. The tender meat of the distinctive local bird, beloved for the fatty layer under its skin, yields rich bursts of flavour that balance savouriness, subtle sweetness, as well as mouth-tingling sensations.

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Celtuce Strips

Calming the palate after the heat of the opening dishes is Liang Ban Wo Sun Si, a plate of chilled celtuce strips lightly kissed by Sichuan peppercorn and chilli oil, then garnished with sesame seeds – it is nutty, aromatic and slightly tingly, but a refreshing change of pace from the richer profiles of the beef and chicken.

Wong’s knowledge and techniques shine through, in particular, in the mains. “We try to keep everything simple and classic, and we use the freshest and best ingredients so our dishes are healthier. For example, we use grapeseed oil, never lard, and no MSG. We prepare our own broths and preserve and marinate our own ingredients,” says the chef.“It’s been much tougher to get ingredients from Sichuan during the pandemic, so the way I see it is, if we can’t get it we’ll make it ourselves.

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Chongqing La Zi Ji (Firecracker chicken)

Their “firecracker chicken”, Chongqing La Zi Ji, uses the local yellow chicken and a generous serving of “facing heaven” chillies. The chicken is served boneless yet its tender, juicy meat bursts in a complexity of salty, spicy and fragrant flavours. This subtle detail speaks volumes of the skill and technicalities that sets the restaurant apart from other Sichuan diners.

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Suan Cai Yu (Fish stew with preserved vegetables)

However, it is Suan Cai Yu, a popular Sichuan fish stew, that surprised us the most. Absent of spicy and numbing essences, but rather bursting in mouth-watering and aromatic fragance, this sour soup delights with the slightest hint of sweetness is accompanied by a succulent, fatty fish. Traditionally, the recipe calls for golden pomfret, but instead Grand Majestic Sichuan uses line-caught grouper, caught locally by a fisherman who works closely with the restaurant, and the innovation improves texture, aroma and flavour. It comes with mustard greens that have been pickled in-house in a special marinade.

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Ma Po Dou Fu (Mapo Tofu)

Saving the finest for last, Ma Po Dou Fu, may be the highlight of the meal. Bursting with a full body of flavour despite a more restrained use of peppercorn oil, the sauce’s rich umami hails from grass-fed beef chopped by hand and oil rendered from Ibérico ham. Simplistic in its nature, but robust with a unique savoury kick, this rendition of the popular tofu dish has been billed by some as “the best in town”, and with that, we concur.

 

Grand Majestic Sichuan. 3/F, Shop 301, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central. (852) 2151 1299. grandmajesticsichuan.com

 

 

Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio