Fertility or futility: The egg-freezing conundrum

The jury’s out as to whether egg-freezing is a boon or a hidden threat to human fertility. Gafencu’s Hira Desai investigates…

Cryopreservation – the practice of freezing living organisms and then restoring them to life at a later date – has long been associated with the more Frankenstein-like branches of science.

Of late, though, the practice has been somewhat rehabilitated. Ever since 2012 – when the American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists (ACOG) deemed that the process had passed the merely experimental stage – oocyte cryopreservation has allowed women across the world to freeze their eggs as insurance against future infertility.

Given the relative infancy of the technique, however, how sure can we be that, when subsequently defrosted, these eggs will retain their original potency?

With any new scientific innovation, there’s always the possibility that negative ramifications could take years or, even, generations to fully manifest. Thankfully, though, for the moment at least, all the research relating to oocyte cryopreservation indicates a positive outcome.

This should come as some relief to many of the businesses, such as Apple, Google and Facebook, that have positioned themselves firmly at the ‘right on’ end of the employment spectrum, chummily – and not at all creepily – offering female staff the chance to freeze their eggs for free.

Overall, medical opinion – while couched in suitably cautious terms – seems broadly supportive of the technique. Endorsing it, while still leaving herself a little wriggle room, Dr Kate Devine, an infertility specialist and a co-director of Washington-headquartered Shady Grove Fertility, says: “The data we have is quite reassuring with regard to the babies produced from frozen eggs. In particular, it’s a huge benefit to those women who, otherwise, might not able to have a child from their own eggs.”

Although usually touted as an entirely new technique, egg-freezing has much in common with a number of earlier infertility treatments, particularly in-vitro fertilization (IVF). As with IVF, oocyte cryopreservation involves a woman’s ovaries being hormonally stimulated prior to eggs being harvested. The extracted eggs are then preserved in specialised capsules – either through a slow-freeze or a flash-freeze process – and stored in a cryopreservation facility.

At a later date, they are then thawed and fertilized, again using a similar process to IVF. Once this step has been completed, they are re-inserted into the would-be mother’s womb. In another echo of IVF, even at this stage, success is far from guaranteed.

Despite the enthusiasm of its advocates, it’s around this point that a positive outcome becomes more an article of faith than the subject of exhaustive scientific research. As the process was only formally approved for widespread use six years ago, there is still comparatively little data from which definitive conclusions can be drawn. It is this lack of quantifiable data that has made some medical professionals wary of recommending the process to all but those with a clear medical requirement. Typically, those that are steered in its direction are women faced with the risk of sterility from looming cancer treatments or those who may have to contend with similarly fertility-compromising surgical procedures.

As far as ethical guidelines go, the most strident to date was issued in 2013 by the American Society for Reproductive Medicine (ASRM) – an organisation representing approximately US 500 fertility clinics – which, together with SART, concluded: “There is not yet enough data to recommend oocyte cryopreservation for the sole purpose of circumventing reproductive aging in healthy women.”

To be fair, though, most of the concerns that do exist relate less to the efficacy of the technique and more to general issues regarding pregnancy among older women. The thinking here is that the wider adoption of egg-freezing as a way of postponing pregnancy in the general population would, undoubtedly, result in a surfeit of mothers in their 40s, 50s or even later. The oldest patient to successfully undergo IVF treatment, it should be remembered, was an Indian woman in her early 70s.

While the benefits of egg-freezing are, as yet, still languishing in the unproven file, there is a clear medical consensus as to the risks represented by pregnancy among post-35-year-olds.

A number of studies indicate a greater propensity for giving birth to a Down Syndrome child in the case of older mothers. Among those aged 25 or below who carry a child to full term, the number of Down Syndrome births is approximately one in 1,250. For mothers aged 40 or above, however, this rises to one in 100, a massive increase in statistical terms.

On the positive side, there is also the case of Emma Gibson. Although, technically, she won’t have her first birthday until November 25 this year, she was actually “conceived” in 1992.

Despite the surely record-breaking quarter century interlude between her conception and her delivery, young Emma seems none the worse for her experience. Indeed, her father has gone on record as saying: “She’s pretty much perfect given she spent all those years deep-frozen.”

Emma may well prove the biggest thumbs-up oocyte cryopreservation could ever have hoped for.

The full version of this feature appears on Gafencu Magazine’s April 2018 print issue as ” Ova Kill” by Hira Desai. You can download the free app for digital editions of the magazine.

Ryan Reynolds: Brainless beefcake or the evolution of Hollywood?

His online confessionals have made him the most accessible of stars, but do we know the real Ryan Reynolds?

Cast as one of the most iconic figures in the superhero universe – quick-witted, handsome and mega-powered, while still battling his inner demons – success seemed all but guaranteed for Ryan Reynolds. Then just 35, the Vancouver-born actor was on the verge of becoming one of Hollywood’s biggest draws, a 21st century Tom Cruise, but with none of the Scientology baggage.

And then his movie tanked. Despite a $200 million budget, Green Lantern went on to become one of the undisputed big screen flops of 2011. The critics were not kind. The Guardian described his performance as “a slice of inert beefcake”, while the influential Rotten Tomatoes website simply begged: “Please, please, please do not make a sequel…”

Fast forward five years and everything has changed. His portrayal of Deadpool, the foul-mouthed, scarred mutant mercenary from the Marvel Cinematic Universe, saw him winning awards across the board. The film also proved one of the surprise hits of the year (it was, after all, a relatively low-budget R-rated production), with the inevitable Deadpool 2 sequel hitting theatres next month.

It was an on-set encounter with one Fox Studio executive that first brought Deadpool into his life. Recalling that initial exposure to Marvel’s most maverick metahuman, Reynolds says: “I pored through the comics and realized that this character occupies a space in the comic-book universe that nobody else does. I thought you could really go places and do things with this character that you couldn’t do with any other superhero property.”

With Reynolds now evangelical about the character’s cinematic potential, he soon set about badgering 20th Century Fox, one of Hollywood’s biggest studios, into investing in his vision. Many years and some tactically leaked test footage later, the studio finally capitulated. Still wary, however, it allocated a shoestring budget of just US$58 million to the project.

It proved a shrewd investment, with Deadpool going on to gross US$783 million at the box office, making it the highest-earning R-rated film ever, while also financially outperforming far bigger budgeted superhero adventures. For his efforts, Reynolds bagged the Best Actor in a Comedy prize at the 2016 Critics’ Choice Awards.

Despite all this, there are many who dismiss Reynolds as an “accidental star”, citing his wry Twitter contributions as far outweighing his acting prowess. To be fair, he actually is one of the few Hollywood A-listers who seems to have mastered the arcane arts of social media.

His tweets – which range from the subtly sarcastic to the outrageously subversive – have, indeed, won him a massive online fanbase. Just as Deadpool, his on-screen alter ego, is forever breaking the fourth wall and addressing cinema audiences directly, Reynold’s online utterances see him shattering the traditional barricades between movie stars and their fans, becoming, arguably, the most accessible of Hollywood A-listers.

Even with his mounting acclaim, the actor remains hyper-aware of the frailty of his star status. Perhaps bearing in mind the collateral damage Green Lantern caused his career, he says: “As an actor, you’re always aware that you may never work again. You always have this lizard-brain fear that’s always just under the surface.”

Despite his concerns, Ryan’s position in the megastar firmament now seems all but unassailable. Just two years ago he was granted that badge of true longevity, a star on the Hollywood’s Walk of Fame.

As to his own future, well, Deadpool 2 is tipped to be but the first of many sequels planned for the maverick mercenary, with Reynolds saying he is committed to playing the character for as long as he is allowed.

His next project, however, is a bit different – Clue, a cinematic rendering of Cluedo, the classic crime-solving boardgame. Given his aptitude for creating memorable characters, however, few are likely to wander away from screenings of that particular project wondering: “Whodunnit?” The unmistakable Ryan Reynolds. Of course.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Images: AFP

Chinese Kung Fu: Decoding the philosophy behind China’s time-honoured martial arts

Gafencu speaks to the experts from the Hong Kong Guoshu Association, including Albert Wong, President, and Brandon Chau, Vice President of the association.

Chinese Kung Fu – made popular in the Western world by the master moves of martial artist and actor, Bruce Lee, is more than just a swashbuckling self-defense technique. It’s a timeless tradition intrinsic to Chinese society, a form of meditation that makes the body and mind as fluid as water, allowing the practitioner – perhaps more fittingly called an artist – to take any shape they want.

It may seem too philosophical for a layperson to comprehend, but with growing interest among the younger generation to learn this time-honoured art, maybe it’s time to decode the hidden philosophies of kung-fu. Check out our video where we deep-dive into the mystical and myriad world of Chinese kung-fu with practitioners and experts from the Hong Kong Guoshu Association.

#NoFilter: The unseen side of social media ‘influencers’

We all know that girl on social media; the influencer. Her photos are pre-screened by Hudson, Sierra and Ludwig – her trusty team of Instagram filters. Her head tilts to the same side in every selfie, like the victim of a chronic disease whose sufferers speak only in hashtags.

On the surface, life seems easy for “influencers”, a budding group of social media mavens who are shaking up the global advertising and marketing sectors. Influencers allow companies to skirt the limitations posed by online ad blockers while also capitalising on consumers’ growing demand for online product reviews.

“Collaborations with influencers include product trials in which brands send influencers a gift and expect a mention on social media, as well as brand ambassador schemes for continuous collaborations and special event campaigns, such as hosting a yoga workshop for a wellness influencer to interact with her fans,” says Samantha Chung, Digital and Social Media Executive at Petrie PR, a public relations agency that has worked with high-profile influencers such as Mr and Mrs Monnet, a travel and lifestyle couple with 273,000 followers on Instagram.

According to AdmanGo, which monitors ad-related services in Hong Kong, brands pay mid-tier influencers (with at least 50,000 followers) up to HK$30,000 per collaboration. For top-tier influencers with more than 100,000 followers, payments can surpass HK$100,000. Top earners tend to be those specialising in beauty, fashion and travel but influencers in these fields must always be conscious of their public image – a fact that 22-year-old Franka Kit learned the hard way.

As a fan of YouTube videos and plainspoken makeup gurus such as Megan Parken (Meganheartsmakeup), Kit started her beauty channel in 2015. However, it got off to a rocky start as she struggled to amass more followers, combat negative feedback and manage a life spread thin by her digital career.

“When I started out, I was very unhappy,” says Kit. “Since I was still developing my video editing and content creation skills, guys in my school dorm would make fun of my videos and play them at full volume.” Others critiqued her appearance, but she didn’t let those comments defeat her.

She started out with just eight YouTube subscribers – all of whom were close friends – and worked her way up to nearly 49,000. Now, it’s not uncommon for fans to approach her on the streets of Mong Kok and ask her to pose for a photo with them. She has worked with big-name brands such as Lancôme, Guerlain and Benefit.

This particular morning, Kit is filming herself at home testing the latest Urban Decay cushion compact foundation sponsored by her own wallet. She then heads to class at the University of Hong Kong, where she is a final-year student, and posts an Instagram story in between lectures to inform fans whether the product is long-lasting. After class, she whizzes off to attend a skincare product launch. She cooks for her family in the evening then retreats to her room to edit photo captions or video sequences.

At 9pm – “the golden time” – Kit uploads her content and starts tackling her schoolwork. But she still has a few comments to reply to. Her Instagram inbox is swamped with requests from fans for personal skincare advice. Her Gmail is cluttered with cosmetic brands seeking collaboration opportunities. “I have so many ideas, but not enough time to edit my videos,” says Kit.

After graduation, she plans to pursue a full-time career in the marketing or law sector while managing her YouTube channel part-time. “Although my friends are supportive of my work, my family is more traditional. They don’t like the idea of a girl seeking so much publicity,” Kit says. “Also, it’s not possible to make a living off YouTube in Hong Kong.”

https://www.instagram.com/p/BVhjYWNFwi_/?hl=en&taken-by=frankakit

She makes between HK$100 and HK$1,000 per sponsored Instagram post, and her monthly revenue from business collaborations ranges from HK$1,000 to HK$4,000.

Samantha Chung, of Petrie PR, believes a full-time influencer with a personal project – for example, running a fashion label – can survive in Hong Kong. Solely living off paid posts, however, is unsustainable.

“Honestly, how many products can you promote on your account? If you promote a lot people will stop believing in you because you are taking money from brands,” she says. “The essence of being an influencer is to promote a lifestyle, not a brand.”

And while for some that lifestyle may be lounging on an inflatable pink bird by the beach, most take their influence a tad more seriously.

The full version of this feature appears on Gafencu Magazine’s March 2018 print issue as “#NoFilter” by Mary Hsiao Chu-an . You can download the free app for digital editions of the magazine.

This villa on Mount Davis is an inspirational take on green architecture

The dawn of the Digital Age saw humankind embrace all things electronic. Engineers have developed smart phones, smart cars, smart watches and wearable tech. But far more elusive and ambitious is the greater project of the smart house.

We first encountered “Mount Davis Villa” when visiting the International Design Furniture Fair that ran last August at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. It was part of a touring exposition entitled Reading Single Family House, a showcase of inventive homes in Greater China curated by Index Architecture founder Anderson Lee.

The project caught our attention as a rare subject belonging to a dying breed of single-family homes in Hong Kong. Upon closer inspection, the mystery project on Pok Fu Lam’s mountainside revealed more and more ingenious features that would delight the cultivated mind: from solar design principles and wind generators to hydro-seed technology for wall landscaping.

A round ‘Heaven’s Gate’ opening allows views into the house, and beyond, over a Jacuzzi and lap pool that protrudes toward infinity

Clearly no funds were spared in the fulfilment of the home-owner’s vision. The man is described as a “naturalist and avid bird watcher involved with the World Wildlife Fund.” Further digging led us to Markus Jebsen, executive chairman of MF Jebsen Group and a direct descendant of Jacob Jebsen – founder of its colonial-era parent company. The Danish businessman belongs to a 120-year-old trading family whose assets include one of the world’s largest Porsche dealerships and Blue Girl, the city’s best-selling brew.

“The owner insisted on environmental friendliness and as much self-sufficiency as possible,” said architect and interior designer Santa Raymond, who reviewed the project. “Materials and construction methods aimed to be [as] sustainable as possible, with – for instance – rubble from demolition being used to level the site. Wind turbines were considered but, apart from planning issues, the lack of access to a local grid into which to feed excess power removed this as a practical option.”

The three-storey house sits on the southern slope of Mount Davis with broad views over the Lamma Channel. Formerly occupying this 600-square-metre site was a one-storey European house with a swimming pool belonging to a relative. It was demolished to make way for the current building, which is sandwiched between Mount Davis Road from the top and Victoria Road below.

Tree planting was encouraged to create shade, reduce temperatures, and attract birdlife.

Award-winning architecture and urban design firm Farrells was chosen to turn this vision of an eco-friendly family home into reality. Designers were initially set back by the long and narrow site; regulations limited interior space to just 420-square-metres across three floors. In response to the rectangular constraints, Farrells designed a long building – a concept partially inspired by the Malaysian longhouse. The form ultimately allowed wide sea views from most rooms, promoted cross ventilation and provided an acoustic shield.

To the north, a large vertical stone façade anchors the house to the ground and shelters the dwelling from the road. Clad in split face stone, the wall is reminiscent of Mount Davis itself. The stainless steel roof, inclined at 30 degrees, also echoes the slope of the hill.

On the ground floor, inhabitants congregate in the double-height family room, which has direct access to the external garden terrace and children’s swimming pool. Guest bedrooms are located here as well, while the family’s bedrooms are on the second floor.

The first level is comprised of the kitchen, main living room and dining space. A large opening in the stone feature wall makes up the main entrance, accessed from the outside by a cantilevered staircase. A spiritual rejuvenation area – designed to ‘let the dragon through’ – includes both a gymnasium and a projecting infinity lap-pool.

The 2m x 12.5m infinity lap pool overlooking Lamma Channel

For all its aesthetic appeal, the villa was fundamentally designed to utilise the latest environmentally friendly technologies. Double glazed windows, large mass walls, and an insulated roof reduce the house’s cooling load. North-facing operable skylights also facilitate a stack effect for natural cooling in summer months.

The roof’s aforementioned solar collectors provide hot water that powers the water-fired absorption chiller, which provides air-conditioning. In addition, a gray water system was incorporated to collect rainwater from the large roof and garden where it is stored in a tank and used for bathroom flushing and garden irrigation.

“Young architects can’t work on anything but boxes nowadays,” says Lee, who featured the 2005 villa in his exhibition. He chose the Jebsen home as one of the few Hong Kong residences that can be proudly presented as a triumph in holistic, ‘life-cycle approach’ design.

Raymond concurs: “The house is impressive at every level. It is a highly sophisticated solution on a demanding site that works as a family house, as a part of its location and as an example of innovative thinking. Its aesthetic defies categorisation, but communicates that it is an imaginative solution to a specific location and situation.”

American naturalist Edward Osborne Wilson once said, “Nature holds the key to our aesthetic, intellectual, cognitive and even spiritual satisfaction.” For all of mankind’s advances in building and composition, it looks as if we remain destined to return to the work of the greatest designer and architect of our smart planet: Mother Earth.

This article originally appears as “The Smart House” by Julienne C. Raboca on Gafencu Magazine’s March 2018 print edition. Photos are courtesy of Farrells and Carsten Schael.

Escape to Hurawalhi Island in the Maldives for the ultimate couple’s getaway

Want to fall off the map with your better half? Hurawalhi Island in the Maldives is the ultimate couple’s getaway.

On the Maldivian island of Hurawalhi, one gets the sneaking suspicion that every sea critter is in cahoots with resort staff, working to put on a show so spectacular that guests will consider extending their stay in this little slice of paradise.

Below the jetty that connects a string of overwater villas to the beach, a school of skinny needlenose fish greets guests each morning. And if you look out onto the Indian Ocean at about 8am, you’re likely to see dolphins leaping and back-flipping some 50 metres away.

Located in the Lhaviyani Atoll about 40 minutes by seaplane from capital city Male, Hurawalhi is one of 1,190 islands southwest of India and Sri Lanka that make up the Maldives. Only about 200 of those islands are populated, and even fewer are home to luxury resorts.

That still leaves plenty of options to choose from, but Hurawalhi’s laidback, small-island vibe and “adults-only” designation make it a favourite among honeymooners and besotted couples both young and old.

Guests can choose between a standalone villa that sits on stilts atop the ocean, or one planted firmly on the beach. The only remaining decision is whether to splash out on a villa with a personal pool, some of which boast a sunset view.

The resort comprises 90 rooms in total, and the island – 400 metres long by 165 metres wide – can be circumnavigated in mere minutes. Yet despite Hurawalhi’s small size, it’s hard to see and do it all in one trip, especially for those with hopes of ticking off all the aquatic attractions: snorkelling, diving, kayaking, jet skiing, windsurfing and deep sea fishing, to name but a few.

Kirsty Ballard, resident marine biologist at Hurawalhi, says the waters surrounding the resort are rich in biodiversity.

“The southern atolls get the whale sharks, but here in Lhaviyani you’ve got a lot of great dive sites for big stuff like grey reef sharks, where you can do channel crossings on motorised scooters and see 50 to 100 of them in one dive,” says Ballard, who grew up on the Spanish island of Mallorca.

For those who’d rather keep a safe distance from sharks and oddly-named filter feeders, 5.8 Undersea Restaurant – so called for its depth (in metres) below sea level – is Hurawalhi’s star attraction. Not only is it the largest all-glass undersea restaurant in the world, but the food is just as impressive, with Michelin-starred chefs helming the kitchen and serving up surf and turf delights, plus a vegetarian menu that doesn’t compromise on quality.

Also popular among happily coupled holidaymakers is the nearby Dream Island, which can be booked by Hurawalhi guests for two to four hours at a time.

There are plenty of other activities to keep you busy, including a dolphin-watching cruise, sunrise yoga sessions, football, tennis and badminton courts, wine tastings and nightly entertainment ranging from a popular DJ to traditional Maldivian music performed by resort staff.

But what truly sets Hurawalhi apart as a top honeymoon destination is the rare luxury of relaxation. Staff are genuinely friendly and attentive, and while the amenities provided are no doubt five star-worthy, it comes with none of the pretentiousness that can be felt at similarly-rated establishments.

“Carefree is the way to be,” says Mohamed Solah, the resort’s director of operations. “We encourage guests to go without shoes and they don’t need to dress up, which is a luxury in itself. Normally, in your day-to-day life you have to make sure everything is well thought of beforehand, but here you can enjoy an easy life.”

If the Maldives is on your bucket list, you might want to consider going sooner rather than later. As a result of climate change, rising sea levels threaten to sink these pristine islands – although there’s no consensus on the likelihood of this occurring.

One thing is for certain, though: Hurawalhi, where the serene verges on surreal, is a once-in-a-lifetime trip – unless, that is, you’re anything like the repeat visitors who have come back two or three times since the resort opened.

“I have seen so many people who come here and say, ‘OK, Maldives can be crossed off the bucket list,’” Solah says, “but then they get addicted and keep coming back.”

The full version of this feature appears on Gafencu Magazine’s March 2018 print issue as ” Honeymoon Avenue” by Emily Petsko. You can download the free app for digital editions of the magazine.

SS18: Celebrating the new season with an explosion of colours

Much like Mother Nature blooming after a long winter, this season’s collections herald the emergence of spring with a sharp burst of colours. Bold prints, geometric patterns and sheer materials dominated the catwalks in celebration of the vernal equinox. SS18 also saw vintage fashion fads like high-waisted trousers, tweed designs and the quintessential ladies’ suit reinterpreted for the modern woman. Without further adieu, let’s dive into the fashionable looks of the warmer months ahead…

BOTTEGA VENETA

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To offset the world’s gloomy political and economic landscape, designer Tomas Maier has sprinkled Bottega Veneta’s Spring/Summer collection with a plethora of bold colours and whimsical embellishments. For women, the focus was on clean, flowing silhouettes dressed up with ‘20s-era flapper tassels and hand-stitched metal studs, gemstones and mirror work. The same trends were evident, though less prominently, among the menswear items, which featured a more muted palette complemented by leather belts and boxy jackets. The brand also debuted its new ‘personalisable’ handbags on the catwalk, with models of both gender carrying monogrammed totes and weekenders.

CHANEL

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When asked about this latest collection, Karl Lagerfeld responded with typical aplomb: “It’s up to you what you see, whatever you see. I don’t make philosophical notes on it.” Don’t be fooled by the nonchalant response. His new Chanel line is a dazzling display of water-themed tones and textures. Vintage-inspired denim designs and tweed patterns have all been given a ‘Space Age’ plastic treatment – from knee-high boots and gloves to hats and overcoats, and even a plastic-encased handbag. All-in-all, Lagerfeld has proven that haute couture always looks chic – even on a rainy day.

DIOR

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One major theme underlines the diverse offerings that make up Dior’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection: female empowerment. It purposefully caters to every aspect of a woman’s personality, from flirtatiously sheer skirts and casually chic high-waisted denim trousers to no-nonsense dress overalls and daringly bold patterns. Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri has also tossed out the sky-high stilettos so commonly found in haute couture. In their place are comfortable Mary Janes and block-heeled boots that are equally at home on runways as on high streets. Even the handbags are a perfect blend of fashionable chic and everyday utilitarianism. Bravo!

DOLCE & GABBANA

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Love is in the air, and nowhere was that more apparent than in Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer collection. The new line pays homage to feminine ardor by drawing inspiration from the Queen of Hearts herself. Indeed, face-card designs are dominant throughout. Models strutted down the catwalk wearing tiaras and showing off heart-trimmed sequin dresses, heart-motif shoes and handbags embossed with the queen’s own face. D&G’s signature grandiose style made its presence felt in bold prints, shimmering threads and gemstone embellishments. The showstopper of this funky collection is a sleek floor-length gown adorned entirely with a sequined Queen of Hearts.

FENDI

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Off-shoulder designs and bold monochrome pieces interspersed with a delightful interplay of geometric patterns were the hallmarks of Fendi’s Spring/Summer collection this year. Karl Lagerfeld’s nautical blues from SS17 were referenced – albeit in a more refined manner – in a white-striped blue dress suit with a plunging neckline, and the decidedly summery sheer chemises. Beautiful off-shoulder trench coats and unassumingly elegant handbags showcased the brand’s renowned leatherwork. Despite the overarching springtime feel, Fendi holds on to the last remnants of winter with its lush fur bomber jacket embellished entirely in the brand’s logo.

GIORGIO ARMANI

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Giorgio Armani’s latest collection perfectly encapsulates the joyful and gentle spirit of spring. His long-term love affair with strongly defined lines has, in this instance, been tempered with a delicate pastel palette and flowing silhouettes. An element of fun has been injected here too, in the form of bold chunky jewellery and pop art prints. Meanwhile, the fashionable shorts, wide-brimmed black sunhat and white-on-orange beach bag seem to signify a longing for the arrival of a tropical summer.

GUCCI

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This season’s Gucci transports us to a collection of contradictions where ‘80s shoulders and English tweed meet as one. Influenced by multiple motifs, the line features anything from Elton John’s ‘70s glam-rock style in a sequin detailed violet dress to a shoulder bag with Guccy printed in a font style resembling that of Sega, the entertainment and arcade game company popular in that decade. Exploring the concept that the past, present and future are synchronised, Creative Director Alessandro Michele explains that “the collection is more than beauty. It’s a state of mind. It’s an idea of community and a really deep expression”.

HERMES

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French designer Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski brings spring to life with a combination of fresh and elegant styles, linear tones and graphic compositions. Displaying a gentle colour palette with well-appointed contrasts, this collection feels delicate and sophisticated. Scottish plaids set a linear tone when compared to the soft cape-style coats paired with pyjama style trousers. The star of the show was a two-piece tie-neck shirt and wrap-style trousers in Grand Manège print silk twill reworked in watercolour-effect ink. The Hermès 2002 bag in check cotton gabardine is the perfect companion to this ensemble.

LOEWE

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Loewe struts onto the runway clearly aiming to communicate all things feminine. Showcasing Liberty prints from London, paisleys from India and traditional hand-woven fabrics from South America, it’s clear that Loewe’s character is that of a worldly traveller; one whom every woman in the audience wished to be. In addition to textures, Jonathan Anderson used unconventional methods to create movement. Notable pieces include a half shredded trench coat, complete with strands crimpled into twirls and a fringed Spanish shawl transformed into an abstract dress. The new edition Tent bag in Oro or Caramel completes the look.

LOUS VUITTON

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Inspired by a visit to the Met Museum in New York, Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière blended 18th-century French garments with today’s street style. His SS18 collection embraces elaborate brocade and fine embroidery with a dynamic yet casual modernity. Elaborate tail coats were draped skilfully over tapered trousers while a melancholic dress was paired beautifully with the latest LV sneakers. Metallic bags and glittery numbers closed the show on an eye-catching note. Resurrecting styles from long-gone eras, Ghesquière’s experimental collection – named “anachronisms” – glides across time, seamlessly intertwining 18th and 21st-century trends.

MICHAEL KORS

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Relaxed sarongs, kimonos and pajamas for women juxtaposed with oversized menswear tailoring dominated the American designer’s Spring-Summer runway show. Keeping in tune with the collection’s laid-back attitude, Kors worked in a palette of breezy pastels before progressing to crisp tones of black and earthy shades of sand. Tie-dye dresses were skilfully paired with softly knotted satchels to add dimension, while tropical palm printed shirts and pleated trousers blended urban tailoring with a tropical ease. From Manhattan to Malibu, Bora Bora to Beverly Hills, this diverse collection is elegantly easygoing.

PRADA

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Seemingly reacting to the realities of the Trump era and its global ramifications, Prada’s Spring/Summer runway depicts female ascendancy in a patchwork of thoughts and ideas. Set among the work of women cartoonists and manga artists, the comic strip collection narrates the feminist story in a playful manner. Miuccia Prada displays women’s individuality through big overcoats with pushed-up sleeves and zebra and leopard-spot prints. Meanwhile, the men’s collection explores the instinctive need for normality with screen-printed coats and bags harking back to a simpler time before technology.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

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In a true celebration of women, Ferragamo explores multi-dimensional styles, personalities and beauty. From ‘20s pencil skirts to ‘70s flares, this collection is fused with standalone pieces that can be mixed-and-matched to suit one’s personality. The colour palette is quintessentially Ferragamo with shots of emerald green, softened with pastels and white. Textures play a key role with perforations on hand-painted python for a semi-transparent look and wide-legged pants with a mélange effect. Geometric totes and small leather bags featuring gold and silver Gancini hardware add to the individuality and distinctiveness that embody this collection.

Versace

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Paying tribute to the life and works of her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace explains “It would be impossible to commemorate Gianni’s entire world in a single collection; therefore, I have decided to honour his legacy with his beloved prints and dazzling metal mesh”. While the prints drew on the late designer’s 1991-1995 collections, the monumental spirit of the early 1990s – Warhol, Baroque and Native American inspirations – filled the air at this tribute show. Gianni’s iconic shoulders, leggings and high-waist jeans were interjected with a modern twist of comfort, lending a nostalgic yet contemporary feel to the collection.

5 Hong Kong startups to watch this year

On 25 January 2018, Sheung Wan based investment accelerator Betatron held its ‘Demo Day’ – a culminating event for the second cohort of its intensive four-month programme. The private, invitation-only affair was held at The Annex in Nan Fung Place, Des Voeux Rd Central, attended by more than 360 entrepreneurs, investors, strategic partners and the media.

With an estimated worth of US$32 Billion, Hong Kong’s startup ecosystem – the world’s fifth fastest growing – is definitely one to watch. Let’s take a look at some of the exciting new players in this up-and-coming sector, as presented in Betatron’s event last month:

Pakt: The Smart Wardrobe

Asia’s most innovative clothing storage service

Shopaholics, rejoice. This “wardrobe away from home” offers pristine storage conditions and a digital platform so you can browse your clothes anytime, anywhere and always know what you have in storage. PAKT also helps property developers like JLL innovate; they think smaller units should become smart homes and that means a smart wardrobe.

The startup also holds occassional Preloved Fashion and charity sales and works closely with bridal dress designers, retailers, beauty / fashion bloggers and more. www.pakt.hk

Pixofy: Interactive furniture shopping

The augmented reality furniture shopping experience

Moving into a new space? Forget hours of going through different home stores only to realise they don’t match with your home or office in the end. Pixofy is focused on providing a next generation interactive shopping experience that allows consumers to visualise products in a different environment via augmented reality. Pixofy aims to enable furniture shoppers to make enhanced purchasing decisions and works with design studios and furniture manufacturers. www.pixofy.io

IC Workshop: Product testing, Inspection and factory certification

An international compliance platform

It may not be the sexiest of startups out there, but this B2B solution promises to deliver solid returns with real added value to the supply chain industry. IC Workshop enhances the efficiency in the procurement process; as of late 2017, the startup had over 100 enterprise users, generated 700 projects and US$6.3 million in revenue. Its vision is to make Hong Kong the international centre of global product testing, inspection and certification. www.icw.io

KidHop: All You Can Play

Discover and book amazing children’s activities

Parents, this one’s for you. The entrepreneurs behind KidHop understand how hard it is to navigate through the myriad of education centres and activities providers in Hong Kong. How do you choose which ones are best for your kid?! With KidHop’s aggregator, you only have to go to one platform containing a comprehensive list of curated activities for children, categorised by time, location, age, etc. Kids can explore a different activity everyday, or take up to 3 visits per month to the same provider for drop-in classes.www.kidhop.com

Trip Guru: Authentic Travel Experiences

A platform for travellers to discover each other through the best group experiences

Who said solo travel has to be lonely? There’s nothing better about travelling than the people you meet along the way! (Read: Gafencu’s travel section) This Hong Kong based startup – headed up by a team of Italian and Argentinian travel enthusiasts – is the millennial answer to the dusty travel agencies of the past. Their first batch of destinations cover Southeast Asia, but with more funding they are hoping to expand to China, India, Myanmar and Latin America. thetripguru.com

Written by: Julienne C. Raboca

Finding Hong Kong’s new crop of urban farmers

Can agriculture and urban growth find a way to coexist? A new generation of urban farmers is reinventing the meaning of concrete jungle in Hong Kong

From helipad to sky-high farm: Bank of America Tower x JLL

Care for a Malaysian durian? That will be HK$600, please. Too expensive? How about Tasmanian cherries? HK$550 only. These were the going rates of ‘exotic’ fruits at the Yau Ma Tei market in last year’s expensive fruit fad, which made news all over the world.

“On the shelves of City Super, a single Japanese strawberry recently fetched a whopping HK$168,” reported AFP. “Each strawberry was nestled on a paper pillow, encased in a glossy cardboard box.” The “appetite for pricey fruit from far afield” reflected “a quest for clean, fresh produce” from anywhere but China.

Food safety and contamination have been sources of concern and alarm in Hong Kong and China in recent history. The 2008 milk scandal in China’s Gansu Province terrorised young parents when toxic melamine was found in baby milk powder. Last year, Hong Kong faced a shortage when livestock from Jiangxi (supplying 20% of the city’s pork) was found to be tainted with illegal food additives: asthma drugs used to artificially enhance growth and leanness. These scares have driven local consumers to take action and become more vigilant about the sourcing of their produce; “never mind the extra cost, as long as I’m sure it won’t kill me.”

*Harvest from The Fringe Club’s rooftop farm*

Back to nature

Hong Kong’s return to farming has been driven in part by such food safety issues. Up north, in the New Territories, ‘rural’ farming was once thought to have become extinct. Little over a decade ago, there was barely any agricultural activity to be found in those parts. However, in the last ten years organic farms have resurged, and today they number in the hundreds – closer to 500 and growing.

“I tried to work in the city for almost three years, but I hated it,” says Becky Au, who runs the Ma Po Po Community Farm in Fanling. “I realized that I want a job that is close to nature and to my home. Some of my friends suggested that I should build a farm… so why not?”

In 2011, Becky Au was in the midst of a Post-80s movement that saw a return to farming amongst Hong Kong’s denizens disillusioned by corporate life. [Post-’80 refers to the generation born between 1980 and 1989 after the death of Mao Zedong and the introduction of the One-child policy]. In an interview with Emily Wu for now defunct HK Magazine, Becky told her tale of growing up on a farm in Ma Shi Po, getting a job in the city and then choosing to go back to her roots.

According to Becky, she feels luckier than her peers as she gets to “eat the best and freshest food” nurtured by her own hand. “I have everything I need here,” she says.

Sky’s the limit

Meanwhile, on top of one of Central’s iconic skyscrapers, a decommissioned helicopter helipad enjoys a new lease on life thanks to Rooftop Republic, a local social enterprise. The five-year-old company provides agricultural services to rooftops all over Hong Kong’s concrete jungle, including the stunning site on the 39th floor of the Bank of America Tower.

“I realised the potential of urban farming to transform the way we currently grow, consume and think about food,” says Rooftop Republic co-founder Pol Fàbrega. The sky-high farm rotates crops by season: sweet potatoes and Chinese spinach in the summer, and radishes, lettuce and kale in winter. The team sometimes donates its harvests to a local food bank where it’s cooked and sent to the poor.

Now with 34 similar projects in Hong Kong, Rooftop Republic has gone a long way since 2012. Businesses have been hiring them for services from site assessment and customised farm design to seedling delivery and edible green wall installations. Everyday folks are also invited to participate; the company holds events on a regular basis, such as urban farming for kids, microgreens workshops and nutrition talks.

The future of agriculture?

According to Matthew Pryor at the Division of Landscape Architecture at the University of Hong Kong (HKU), there are around 60 such rooftop farms in the city. Pryor is currently working on a model estimating the total space for potential rooftop farms in the SAR. “There’s more on the roof than there is on the ground,” he says.

Pryor, a landscape architect, hopes to persuade the government to integrate rooftop farms into city planning. He reasons out that green ceilings can provide thermal and sound insulation, potentially saving buildings’ overall energy consumption. If you want to see proof of concept, you can visit his rooftop farm in HKU, which he founded with fellow staff and students out of recycled materials from construction sites.

Many may tout indoor / vertical / urban agriculture as nothing but a passing fad, but those in the know stand their ground on it being inseparable from the future of humanity. “With hundreds of millions suffering from under-nutrition, anything that helps to bring nutritious food closer to the urban table can only be worth pursuing,” says Laurie Winkless, physicist and science writer.

In 2015 science fiction film The Martian, Matt Damon plays a botanist who survives being stranded on Mars by cultivating potatoes on his rocket ship. It presents an interesting scenario: can the technology we are using for urban farming today be employed beyond the confines of earth one day? We wouldn’t be surprised if Elon Musk’s SpaceX were to onboard some of the budding hydroponic experts on his quest to colonise the red planet – would you?

Written by: Julienne C. Raboca

Gal Power: Gal Gadot shatters superhero glass ceiling with Wonder Woman debut

Former Miss Israel and mother-of-two Gal Gadot was catapulted to superstardom last year with the record-breaking success of Wonder Woman. After appearing in the second highest-grossing movie of the year (second only to Star Wars: The Last Jedi), Gadot made another appearance in Justice League (November), securing her place as 2017’s highest-grossing actress and third highest-grossing actor, period.

Considering’s Gadot’s relative Hollywood obscurity prior, these achievements are not to be sniffed at. It only took 70 years to bring Wonder Woman to the big screen – a rare female lead in a world of male superheroes. It’s also been more than 40 years since the character, played by Lynda Carter, appeared on TV.

Whether she intended to or not, Gal Gadot (that’s Ga-dote) has shown the world that women can rise to the top of their careers, be successful mothers and look fabulously fit all at the same time. Getting there was no small feat, though.

Gadot prepared for her first appearance as Wonder Woman in Batman v Superman (2016) by training six days a week with horseback riding lessons, martial arts, sword fighting and weightlifting. By the time she shot her first stand-alone, hundred-million dollar movie, she had gained 7.7kg (17lbs) in pure muscle – spurring her husband to hit the gym more just to keep up with her physical prowess.

In Wonder Woman (2017), Gadot plays an Amazonian princess fighting against evil in World War I. Audiences the world over were shocked to learn that she had performed choreographed fights and running scenes while five months’ pregnant with her second child.

Born in Rosh Ha’Ayin, Israel, Gadot studied dance and played several sports in her youth. “I was a dancer for 12 years,” says Gadot, who did ballet, hip-hop, modern and jazz. Standing at 1.78m, she received offers to model throughout her teens. After high school, she was crowned Miss Israel in 2004 and went on to represent her country in the Miss Universe pageant.

“I was 18, and I had some time in between going to the army,” she told W magazine. “My mom figured, ‘Hey, why don’t I send your photo?’ I got in but never thought I would win.” Despite her reservations, the experience paved the way to a career in modelling and exposed her to international travel.

After wrapping up Miss Universe and modelling for some time, she went home to serve two years in the Israeli Defense Forces – a mandatory requirement for all Jewish Israelis, both male and female.

“I wish no country had the need for an army,” she says. “But in Israel serving is part of being an Israeli. You’ve got to give back to the state … It’s not about you. You give your freedom away. You learn discipline and respect.”

After the army, she enrolled in IDC Herzliya College to study law. Her studies were interrupted, though, when a casting director for Quantum of Solace contacted her after seeing her modelling card on her agency’s wall.

“I said, ‘No way am I going to audition to be a Bond girl,'” she says. “‘I’m studying law and international relations. I’m way too serious and smart to be an actress, and besides, the script is all in English.” Her first language is Hebrew.

She pursued the role nonetheless and received multiple callbacks, which required her to split time between Tel Aviv and Los Angeles. “Throughout this process I realised that acting is so much more fun than going to law school!” she says.

While someone else was ultimately cast as James Bond’s love interest, the process got Gadot into acting. She started seeing an acting coach, then landed her first role in an Israeli TV series.

“I had finished my first year in school, and I decided to stop when I got that project,” she says. “Then that same Bond casting director cast me as Gisele in Fast & Furious – my first movie.”

After Gadot’s big screen Hollywood debut in 2009, she was asked to return for the sequels: Fast Five (2011), Fast & Furious 6 (2013) and Furious 7 (2015).

“Whenever I met with producers, writers or directors, I said I wanted to portray a strong, independent woman,” says Gadot. “Cut to Wonder Woman.”

Gadot’s big break came when she turned 30, in a move she never imagined as a child growing up in small-town Israel. But before she became Wonder Woman, she had to endure numerous callbacks and screen tests, only to be let down repeatedly.

“It would be a ‘no’, over and over,” she says, recalling being on the brink of quitting. “Then my agent called and said Warner Brothers wanted to audition me for something.”

Zack Snyder, the director of Batman v Superman, finally called and asked her, “Have you ever heard of Wonder Woman?”

“My jaw dropped,” she says. “I tried to sound nonchalant, like, ‘Oh yeah, Wonder Woman, sure.’” It was a whirlwind from that point up until Wonder Woman’s premiere on May 2017 in Hollywood.

“It should have happened a long time ago,” she says. “People are looking for (a superheroine), waiting for one, and I’m so happy and grateful to be the one who is actually doing it.”

At Comic-Con in July 2015, Gal Gadot introduced herself to an enthralled crowd. “I feel like I’ve been given such a huge opportunity to show the strong, beautiful side of women,” she said. “Finally, Wonder Woman is getting the respect of having her own movie!” The room broke out in wild applause.

Beyond the big screen, she is playing another important role: mother of two. She and her husband, Yaron Varsano, are the proud parents of two little girls – Alma, six, and Maya, born last year.

“The Jewish guilt I feel about being a working mom is the hardest thing,” she says. “When Alma was around two, I was really anxious about moving her from one country to the other. It was my husband who told me: ‘Gal, think about what kind of a role model you want to be. If you want to show Alma that she can follow her dreams, that’s what you should do, and we will figure out the logistics.’”

Gadot believes feminism is part of being a woman and mother. “There are such misconceptions as to what a feminist is. Feminism is about equality. I want all people to have the same opportunities and to get the same salaries for the same jobs.

“I realise I’m doing what I want to do because of the women before me who laid the groundwork. Without them I wouldn’t be an educated working mother who is following her dreams. I wouldn’t be here.”

In October 2016, the United Nations invited Gal Gadot and Lynda Carter, the original Wonder Woman, to a special panel. The comic book heroine was named an “honorary ambassador for the empowerment of women and girls”. However, the event was sabotaged by protesters accusing the character of being “overtly sexualised”.

A petition signed by nearly 45,000 people prompted the UN to nix the campaign. Gadot said in response, “When people argue that Wonder Woman should ‘cover up’, I don’t quite get it. They say, ‘If she’s smart and strong, she can’t also be sexy.’ That’s not fair. Why can’t she be all of the above?”

Text: Julienne C. Raboca
Photos: AFP