Into the Void: VR is a truly visionary medium

Virtual reality (VR) is the ultimate example of man meets machine. By simply putting on a VR headset, users can escape the real world and explore pretty much anything in the virtual world. All achieved with ever-improving electronic equipment, typically with a helmet and inbuilt screen or gloves fitted with sensors.
But where did VR originate? The term ‘virtual reality’ was coined by web pioneer Jaron Lanier in 1987, but the concept had been around long before that. In the 1950s, when people still watched black and white TVs and Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Elvis were wowing the public, American inventor and cinematographer Morton Heilig invented the first interactive multimedia device, the Sensorama, in 1957.

Heilig’s invention gave users the illusion of reality by immersing them in a 3-D motion picture with smells, stereo sound, seat vibrations and wind. The viewing holes were surrounded by a series of vents, which were sheltered under a hooded canopy. The 3-D film was viewed through eye portals and filled most of the user’s peripheral vision.
However, as Sensorama was so far ahead of its time, the device was missing the one thing that truly defines a virtual reality experience: a computerised image. Heilig dreamed up his invention long before modern computers and technology caught up to his vision.

In the late 1980s, Lanier’s company – the Visual Programming Lab (VPL) – developed the first multi-person virtual worlds using head-mounted displays, along with the first representations of users within these virtual worlds.

A true visionary, Lanier also saw the benefits of virtual reality beyond just entertainment. Even though militaries had been using flight simulators for years – the first one was commissioned by the US Air Force in 1966 – to train their pilots on how to fly and to deal with problems in a virtual setting, the use of virtual reality technology outside of entertainment was limited. Lanier cottoned onto this and his team developed the first implementations of virtual reality applications for surgery, vehicle interior prototyping, television production and beyond.

This golden era of virtual reality was to be short-lived, however. Even with the release of breakthrough movies such as Tron and The Lawnmower Man, set in the world of virtual reality, by the mid-1990s, the promise of being whisked away to a different world just by donning a headset was trickier and more expensive than people realised.
It wasn’t like today where people can slip on slim headsets and enjoy VR from the comfort of their homes. People in the ‘90s had to go to an arcade and pay over the odds to sit in a giant pod, wear a huge headset to play a game with substandard graphics and sluggish movement from the avatar – and look totally ridiculous in the process. The VR arcade machines in the 1990s and movies using VR brought the technology to the public’s attention, but it wasn’t enough to keep people interested or make them eager enough to pay for the technology. Unsurprisingly, it slowly fizzled out as a form of entertainment.

It did, however, remain a tool in fields such as medical care and the military. Since 1997, virtual reality has been used to treat patients with Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD). Georgia Tech released the first version of the Virtual Vietnam VR to treat Vietnam veterans with PTSD. Virtual Vietnam allows users to ride a combat helicopter and walk through a hostile helicopter landing zone in Vietnam. The scenes experienced by the vets through Virtual Vietnam helped them relive and process difficult emotions as a way of curing them.

The technology was not just used to help patients. Research teams in the ’90s developed virtual reality scenarios to help surgeons rehearse real or robotic procedures using advanced computer generated images. Surgery simulators have been invaluable for physician training. VR has also been used to help people get over phobias such as a fear of heights and flying.

Due to advancements in technology over the past two decades, VR can now be the immersive experience it has promised. And when Facebook purchased Oculus – a virtual reality startup – in 2014 for US$2 billion (HK$15.5 billion), developers and investors became convinced the technology had a future.
Shortly after the purchase, Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg posted on his Facebook wall: “This is just the start. After games, we’re going to make Oculus a platform for many other experiences. Imagine enjoying a courtside seat at a game, studying in a classroom of students and teachers all over the world or consulting with a doctor face-to-face – just by putting on goggles in your home.”

Zuckerberg is not the only one with the idea to make VR a platform for more than just games.

Here in Hong Kong, VR is used for fitness, to sell property and by art galleries.

Pure Fitness spent US$450,000 to build the world’s first 270-degree virtual reality screen in a gym in 2015. Fitness fanatics can enjoy a spin class that immerses them in a world where they cycle through space, up the Himalayas and through the streets of cities. ‘Immersive Fitness’ is clearly aimed at attracting younger people to the gym with loud music and shouty instructors. But it’s also unique, as VR fitness tends to be limited to headsets, and working out alone is arguably not as much fun as exploring the virtual world in a room filled with other sweaty cyclists.

The use of VR in property does the opposite, in a way, to that of fitness as it takes the effort out of property hunting. Potential buyers just have to strap on a headset and they are then whisked away on a virtual tour of the property they are interested in buying. All from the comfort of the property agent’s office. The virtual tours are perfect for people looking for a home but who don’t really have the time to traipse around the streets of Hong Kong.

It is also ideal for people who are looking to buy a house outside of Hong Kong as it eliminates the need to travel. It also suits property agents and developers because all they have to build is a virtual showroom and everything can be contained in the headset rather than in an actual bricks-and-mortar showroom. Developers like Sino Land have taken advantage of the advancement in technology with VR tours of its properties in Sai Kung.

It isn’t just property developers who are taking advantage of VR to make sales. At the recent Art Basel in Hong Kong, the use of VR was a star attraction in and around the event. Google showed off the work of five artists that had used Tilt Brush, its 3-D drawing and painting tool.

The exhibition, Virtual Frontiers: Artists Experimenting with Tilt Brush, was a highly successful presentation of VR artworks by the five artists.

“This collaboration extends Art Basel’s interest in the digital realm and how artists approach this topic on different levels,” said Marc Spiegler, Art Basel’s global director.
“Virtual Frontiers allows internationally renowned artists to experiment with new technology and to expand their practice into another dimension.”

It wasn’t just Google who was getting in on the VR act. Artist Huang Yong Ping made an eight-minute film of his Empires installation, which was viewed through a Samsung Gear headset.

Visitors who donned a headset at Art Basel could decide how close they wanted to get to a piece of art, which aspects of it they wished to view and even move inside the artwork.

Advancements in virtual reality are continuing apace. So whether it’s for purely thrilling entertainment purposes, buying a property or even gleaning a greater appreciation of an enthralling artwork, VR presents fascinating possibilities. Undoubtedly more intriguing developments are just over – and beyond – the horizon.

Text: Andrew Scott

Visitors to Hanoi and beyond will find a surprisingly romantic backdrop

When scouring the web for the world’s most romantic destinations, you’ll see Paris, Venice, Casablanca and Hawaii on any number of top-20 lists. While their appeal is undeniable, these listings are hardly definitive, and after all, true romance is what you make of it.

A convincing case can be made for taking a trip for two to a less-travelled locale – one that’s just a two-hour flight from Hong Kong. When it comes down to planning your next amorous escape with your better half, you may want to consider a stay in North-Central Vietnam. From Hanoi’s lakeside sunsets to the striking limestone peaks of Halong Bay and the lantern-lit streets of Hoi An, the region is brimming with natural beauty and charm.

First things first, though. You will need to get those ideas of flip flop-wearing backpackers and honking motorbikes clogging the streets of Hanoi out of your head. While those things can certainly be found in Vietnam’s bustling capital, the city also has a subtler side. Hanoi tends to move at a more languid pace than its southern sister, Ho Chi Minh City, but the northern city arguably has more sights worth seeing.

Hanoi’s stunning scenery is reason enough to stop and admire the views while sipping a cà phê sữa đá (Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed milk) at a lakeside café. Hanoi is home to more than 100 lakes, the most famous of which are Hồ Tây (West Lake) and Hồ Hoàn Kiếm (Lake of the Restored Sword). For a truly idyllic setting, take your beloved for a nighttime stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake. The ancient tower in the centre of the lake is beautifully illuminated, as is the iconic red bridge leading to Đền Ngọc Sơn (The Temple of the Jade Mountain), which sits on a small island.

Long Bien Bridge also offers a picture-perfect view, particularly at sunset. Built in 1902, the bridge was designed by French architect Gustave Eiffel, mastermind of the eponymous Eiffel Tower. The bridge was partly destroyed by American bombs during the war and had to be rebuilt, but half of the original structure remains. Head across the bridge by foot and enjoy the view as the setting sun paints the Red River and lush banana trees a rosy hue.

To keep the romance going, spoil yourself a little and head to the InterContinental Hotel for a meal at Café du Lac, followed by after-dinner drinks at Sunset Bar. Accessed via a torch-lit bridge, the bar offers an unrivalled view of West Lake, all in a discrete location. Recommended tipple for two is the signature Hanoi Breeze cocktail – a refreshing blend of dark and white rum, lemongrass, fresh mint and soda.

With your evening itinerary covered, fill your days with a little city exploration. The vibrant, winding streets of Hanoi’s Old Quarter are best explored by foot or by cyclo – somewhat akin to a rickshaw. The quarter is home to French colonial architecture and more than 40 traditional streets, many of which are named for the products sold there. Head to Hang Dau for shoes, Hang Bac for silver jewellery and Hang Dao for ready-made clothing. It’s easy to get lost, but that’s all part of the Old Quarter’s charm – embrace the chaos.

Partly due to its French influence, Hanoi also has a thriving café culture and it’s well worth sampling the fare. Try the creamy egg coffee from the famous Giảng Cafe (located at 39 Nguyễn Hữu Huân, Hoàn Kiếm), or a yoghurt coffee from the tongue-in-cheek Cộng Cà Phê (Communist Coffee), a café chain with a war-era theme.
Slightly further afield but well worth the visit is Cafe Cuối Ngõ (located at the end of alley 68 on Cầu Giấy Street in Cầu Giấy District). Literally meaning ‘Café at the end of the lane,’ this well-hidden hub is one of Hanoi’s best-kept secrets. The entrance is accessed via an old, moss-covered archway, and the dimly lit café is filled with antiques, artworks and little artificial lighting – giving visitors the sensation of revisiting a foregone era.

Unlike Hong Kong, Hanoi’s cafés encourage lingering, and the long conversations that unfurl over a cup of coffee or trà đá (iced tea) are partly what make North Vietnamese culture so inviting.

As for accommodation, nowhere has more charm for an amorous pair than the Metropole, a French colonial-style hotel built in 1901. Over the years, the five-star hotel has accommodated a number of high-profile guests such as actor Charlie Chaplin, actress and political activist Jane Fonda, former American president George H.W. Bush, and most recently, French president François Hollande.

Not only is the Metropole within walking distance of Hoan Kiem Lake and the Opera House, but it’s also close to a number of top-rated eateries and bars. Catch a live performance at the sultry Binh Minh Jazz Club (1 Tràng Tiền), or head to the nearby Tadioto bar (24 Tông Đản) – an artsy hideout and favourite among the city’s literati. For both delicious food and a cosy balcony overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake, head to Cầu Gỗ restaurant (7 Đinh Tiên Hoàng). Other dining options that come highly recommended are Asian fusion restaurant Pots ’n’ Pans (57 Bùi Thị Xuân) and French restaurant La Badiane (10 Nam Ngư).

Whether you’re looking for luxurious spas, fine dining, cooking classes or excellent museums, Hanoi has something to offer everyone. Although it’s hard to leave the city, there’s much more to see outside of the capital. It’s advisable to head north to Halong Bay and its majestic islands, or south to the central city of Hoi An – or preferably both, if time allows.

From Hanoi, the most scenic route to Halong Bay is by air. Just three years ago, Hai Au Aviation launched the first and only seaplane service in Vietnam, which includes a stop in the heart of Halong Bay. Departing from Noi Bai International Airport, the short flight to Halong includes a 15-minute scenic flyover of the bay’s teal blue waters and stunning limestone peaks. Most impressively – if a little precarious – the airline’s skilled pilots land the Cessna Caravan planes atop the water before taxiing to land.

Halong means ‘descending dragon’ in ancient Vietnamese, referring to a legend in which a dragon is sent by the Jade Emperor to help the people conquer invaders. Many cruise options abound, including luxury cruise lines Paradise Luxury, Dragon Legend and Au Co. Most offer two- or three-day excursions, and some offer packages in partnership with Hai Au Aviation. For those with time to spare, the less-crowded Cat Ba Island in Halong Bay is well worth a visit.

After returning to Hanoi – either by plane, bus or private transfer – you can then fly to the central city of Danang. The beach is lovely, but it’s a quiet and fairly uneventful city, and your time is perhaps better spent in the ancient town of Hoi An, which has been called the “Venice of Vietnam” for its beautiful canals. Nestled between the Thu Bon River and the sea, this UNESCO World Heritage site can be reached via a 45-minute private transfer from Danang.

Although it was once a major port between the 15th and 19th centuries, ‘Hoi An’ translates to ‘peaceful meeting place,’ and the name couldn’t be more fitting. No cars are permitted in the ancient town, and entering the city feels like stepping back into a simpler time. The town’s cheerful storefronts and riotously colourful temples represent a blend of Chinese, Japanese and European influences. One of the highlights of the town is its wooden Japanese Bridge, constructed in the 1590s to link the Japanese and Chinese communities living there.

At night, the town is illuminated by a dazzling array of lanterns. An especially magical time to visit is during a full moon, at which time a festival is held and floating lanterns are released onto the river – a most serene scene.

The scenery, culture and easy way of life all conspire to lure travellers back to Vietnam, time and time again. Celebrity chef and TV personality Anthony Bourdain is one of those who have fallen under the country’s spell. As he put it: “Vietnam: It grabs you and doesn’t let you go. Once you love it, you love it forever.”
Perhaps there’s some romance to be found in Vietnam after all. What better place for a little pho with your beau or an aperitif with your amoreux.

Text: Emily Petsko

Claudia Shaw reveals how she juggles family, spirituality, writing and a successful career

Claudia Shaw is a buyer and head of style advisory for Chanel and has also co-authored two cookbooks.

As someone who was raised in Hong Kong, do you feel like it’s a good environment to grow up in?
Yes, I did and I do. I think a lot of people think of Hong Kong as a very dense city with not a lot of open spaces – but we have so many amazing and beautiful parks, mountain trails and beaches. I think that is a side of Hong Kong not many people realise we have. Growing up, I spent a lot of time outdoors. My mother is Austrian and we did a lot of hiking and swimming and that was all very much a part of my childhood. I always feel I was very fortunate to have grown up in a bustling metropolis that also has a great deal of nature and outdoor activities. So it was a great mixture of the two.

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We have so many country parks that are protected so you can actually walk and not see any high-rise buildings and find yourself out in nature where there are snakes and wild boar. Just the other day I was out walking and I came across a little python strewn across the path. And quite recently near my home I came across a wild boar rummaging right next to me and I just thought how incredible that is for such a busy city.

You are renowned for your style and your fashion sense. Is that something you have to work at?
I would say it comes quite naturally and it is not something I find incredibly difficult. I think that is because I am quite relaxed about it and I never try too hard to be something. I don’t follow fashion religiously or believe something is the style for the season so you must have it. When you are relaxed about things they come easier. It’s also about knowing your own style. I know what is comfortable and what works for me. I was also fortunate enough to grow up with a mother who had a great sense of style so I guess that was instilled in me.

How would you describe your sense of style?
I think there is a sense of timelessness to it and I feel like that is why my relationship with Chanel has been so long and solid, because it is very much my sort of style. I wouldn’t say it is simple but it is timeless. There is no wildness about it. It is not overtly anything but it has a very classic sophistication without being outdated.

You mentioned your relationship with Chanel, can you tell us what that entails and what it has meant to you?
It affords me a lot of interaction with people and that is what I have very much enjoyed over the years – not just with Chanel but also developing relationships with clients, giving them confidence and advising them to try different things to expand their horizons and step out of their comfort zones a little bit.

The other side of the industry is being involved in the buying. For example, going to Paris several times a year and really tapping into your creative side – not that I am creating, but you still feel the buzz and you feel the creativity, and that gives you a sense of excitement.

You also enjoy cooking and have written two cookbooks. What motivated you to do that?
It was quite simple actually. A friend and I were both sitting at lunch and discussing how we both love cooking, we both cook a lot for our families and we come from families where food is such an important part of daily life.

So we were talking about how much we enjoyed eating at each other’s houses and I think I mentioned that I would love to write a cookbook one day. Then we just said ‘let’s do it’ without thinking about whether it would be complicated or how we would go about it. It was just one of those things where nothing is impossible if you set your mind to it.

You have used the proceeds of your books altruistically. Can you elaborate on that?
The first book benefitted a group of local charities and proceeds from the second book went to Room to Read (an organisation to improve literacy in the developing world). It’s about giving back. I feel that we are so fortunate and life should not always be about oneself. It should not just be about me. You need to ask, ‘What can I do to give back?’ I feel that is one of the great purposes of life.

Are charities something you feel strongly about?
I’m not sure I would say charities in particular but rather service, the act of giving back. How can I be – without sounding too lofty – of service to humanity? It’s this whole idea of giving and the idea that as you give, so shall you receive.

I understand spirituality is something that you are quite involved with?
For quite a few years I have been studying with a teacher who founded a meditation centre called the Samadi Training Centre for the Soul. It’s a place where you can go to connect and meditate, and for me that has been very grounding. It’s as if I have a world on the outside connected to people and society and beautiful clothes and glamour. And then I have a side that is very much focused on being centred and grounded in a much more spiritual way.

Are you religious?
I find religion quite man-made. There are a lot of rules and they can be quite exclusive whereas when I say ‘spirituality,’ it is inclusive of all religions.
I was brought up Catholic so I am very comfortable in a Catholic church. But I find religion and spirituality can be two different things.
I find organised religion too dogmatic. I am not sure God, being all benevolent, meant for us to live by all those rules.

What is a typical day for you?
Usually I am up quite early and I start with a morning meditation session for an hour. It is the perfect way to start the day. In the beginning, it was a little difficult with the early morning practice but even the Dalai Lama is up at 3:30 in the morning. When you talk to Buddhists they always say meditation should be done early in the morning because that is when your mind is the calmest and the energies in the world are the calmest.

You have a successful career and a public persona as well as a close family and your private persona. How do you manage to juggle all that?
Sometimes I feel a little frazzled and feel like I’m being pulled in different directions. But my spiritual practice has involved not letting the mind control feelings. If your energy is a certain way, that is the way you will think, so it is really about pacing yourself and prioritising. Sometimes family takes priority and other times work does, but the main thing is to avoid cutting corners.
Whatever you are doing, do it all the way and don’t move on to something else until you are done. Give 100 percent and stay in the present.

So you are not one of those people that wish there were more hours in the day?
Well yes there are times! Sometimes the outward persona is not what is happening on the inside! But you know what they also say: ‘Fake it ‘til you make it.’ There are those times when you have to pull yourself together and put the theory into practice.

What is your advice for women looking to enjoy a successful career and a family?
I think you have to do it because you love it. If you are doing it for any other reason and you are not happy doing it, you won’t be successful. I have to say in the beginning it was difficult juggling motherhood and work but I was really fortunate with Chanel in that they allowed me the time to be with my children so I feel I am successful at work but I wasn’t an all-out career woman. I had the ability to be with my children when I needed to be, thanks to the company. If I hadn’t had that freedom and if I had been made to choose one or the other, my kids would certainly have come first.

Has motherhood had a dramatic impact on you?
I think I became less self-centred. Before you have children life revolves around you, because you have no one else to be responsible for. When you have children life is about them and you come out of yourself and you have to think about someone else for a change. In the same vein at work, if you are not listening to your boss or your colleagues you are not a good employee.
I can’t imagine life without my kids. They drive you crazy sometimes but they are an absolute joy as well.

What was your dream profession as a child?
I wanted to be a ballerina as a kid, I really loved ballet. I also love the art world but when I first came back to Hong Kong (the art scene) was quite small. I kind of fell into fashion but I believe that the universe is precise so I must be where I am meant to be.

What does the future hold for you?
I would like to see how I can give back and be of service. Learn more in order to give more. If anything, that is what I hope my future holds. Maybe using my experiences – whether they be good or bad – and helping someone else who finds themselves in a similar situation.

Thank you.

Text: Hans Schlaikier

From the Silk Road to couture gowns, silk has come a long way

Silk. For centuries, people crossed deserts and scaled mountains to trade it. Opposing powers fought to control it. Traditionally used to make cheongsams, now we also buy it in the form of pyjamas, scarves and bath robes.

In modern times, silk has become synonymous with all things pleasing: soft sheets, chocolate mousse, smooth skin. The word itself promises unparalleled comfort and indulgence. But how did silk become so widely attainable, while still maintaining its luxury status and aspirational price tag?

The story of silk is one that dates back a long way. According to Chinese myth, silk was discovered by Chinese Empress Leizu about 5,000 years ago. Legend has it that the empress – wife of the mythical Yellow Emperor – was having tea under a mulberry tree one day when a silkworm cocoon dropped into her tea cup.
According to an account in the book Middlesex: “When (the empress) tried to remove it, she noticed that the cocoon had begun to unravel in the hot liquid. She handed the loose end to her maidservant and told her to walk. The servant went out of the (empress’s) chamber, and into the palace courtyard, and through the palace gates, and out of the Forbidden City, and into the countryside a half mile away before the cocoon ran out.”

While the tale of Leizu is rather charming, new scientific findings actually suggest that silk was discovered much earlier. Last January, scientists unearthed the earliest evidence of silk production to date – silk fibres contained in soil samples that had been excavated from tombs dating back 8,500 years in Jiahu, central China. Researchers suggested that people may have been buried in silk garments during that time. Shrouded in mystery, silk remained one of China’s best-kept secrets for centuries.

While there are several varieties of silkworm throughout the world, the Bombyx mori species is the most widely used. Starting out as a blind moth that cannot fly, it lays about 500 eggs in less than a week, and dies shortly thereafter. After emerging from the eggs, the larvae – or caterpillars known as silkworms – feed on mulberry leaves. Then, after moulting several times, the silkworm excretes a fluid from its salivary glands, which forms a long thread that is hardened by a gum called sericin. It then spins the thread and encloses itself inside its cocoon for a few days.

To acquire the raw material, the cocoons are boiled in water during the ‘degumming process’ and the silkworms are killed, save for an important few that are kept alive by silk producers to propagate the species. The silk fibres are then unravelled and wound onto reels. It takes about 3,000 silkworms to produce just one pound of raw silk. Hence the Chinese proverb: “With time and patience the mulberry leaf becomes a silk gown.”

In modern times, silk has courted controversy. Some animal rights organisations, like PETA, take issue with the number of silkworms sacrificed to produce silk. Thus, ‘peace silk’ emerged as a substitute – the manufacture of which does not involve the death of the silkworm. This, however, is a fairly new trend. Silk Road traders and, for that matter, the Chinese emperors who at one time forbade everyone else from wearing silk, were unlikely to have been too concerned about the dying wishes of the silkworm.

China’s early rulers reportedly wore white silk robes inside the palace, and yellow robes – the colour of the earth – outdoors. Eventually, silk trickled down to the higher classes of Chinese society and was fashioned into clothing and decorations. Through time, silk found a number of other applications. It was used in the production of musical instruments, fishing lines, bowstrings and a luxurious type of paper. It later became a valuable form of currency in its own right, and – along with bronze coins and grain – was traded for other goods.

Myths abound as to how China’s silk-spinning secrets spread beyond its imperial borders to Central Asia. One tale has it that around 500AD a Chinese princess married the King of Khotan (now present-day Xinjiang, northwest China), who told her that if she wanted to continue wearing silk dresses, she had to bring him some mulberry tree seeds and silk worms. So she smuggled them in her enormous headdress.

Regardless of the veracity of the tale, historical evidence has revealed that the Silk Road, a trade route that emerged during the Han Dynasty around 200BC, was the main factor contributing to the spread of silk. The term ‘Silk Road’ was coined in 1877 by a German geographer who worked in China and created an atlas depicting a “relatively straight and well-travelled” route from China to Europe. However, contrary to popular belief, the Silk Road was not a single, unified road at all.

According to historian and author Valerie Hanson: “The ‘road’ was not an actual road but a stretch of shifting, unmarked paths across massive expanses of deserts and mountains. In fact, the quantity of cargo transported along these treacherous routes was small.”

The goods transported and traded along the now-famed route were not just limited to silk either. They also included spices, leather goods, metals, glass and other materials. The route began in Xi’an, China, and snaked westward through the 1,000-kilometre Gansu Corridor – wedged between the Qinghai Mountains and the Gobi Desert. After reaching Dunhuang in Gansu Province, traders could take one of three routes, one of which ran right through the desert. Then it was onward to the western borders of imperial China and further beyond to Central Asia, South Asia and the Middle East.

Few traders actually traversed the entire route. Instead, it was much easier to have middle-men placed along the route, and the goods typically changed hands several times before ending up at their final destination. Silk found its way into the Roman Empire around 115BC, and even Julius Caesar was said to have owned silk curtains.

While China has more or less maintained its monopoly on the silk trade for thousands of years (at times, it fell behind Japan and other powers), the empire could not stop others from cultivating their own silk. The practice spread to Korea in 200BC, then to Japan, India, the Byzantine Empire and on to the Middle East. The Crusades brought silk to Western Europe, particularly Italy, which profited from the trade boom and also become the fashion capital that it still is today. After the invention of the spinning wheel and the Industrial Revolution in Europe, the rest, as they say, was history. Cotton eventually became cheaper to produce than silk, followed by other materials like nylon, which cemented silk’s status as a rare luxury good.

For evidence of that fact, look no further than the array of high-end silk products currently on the market. A king-sized silk bed cover by Frette, for example, will set you back US$2,200 (HK$17,300). The Italian brand makes some of the world’s most expensive linens, which have been supplied to luxury hotels around the world, including the Ritz in Paris, the Danieli in Venice and the Peninsula in Hong Kong. The aforementioned silk bed cover displays a chromatic effect produced by yarn-dyed mixed silk jacquard, a process that colours each individual thread, giving the cover a lavishly luminous look.

Silk bathrobes can be even more expensive. Designer Tom Ford’s silk bathrobes – which are often limited editions – carry a price tag of US$4,000 to $6,000. They have been featured in a number of TV shows such as the vampire fantasy-horror True Blood as well as the James Bond films. Not to be outdone, a purple paisley bathrobe previously released by Italian designer Stefano Ricci – made of 100 percent silk and lined with cashmere – was priced at $5,415. But nothing compares to the price tag on antique Chinese robes. Silk robes from the Qing Dynasty can cost up to $10,000, while ones from the 17th century often cost up to $20,000.

While silk has a reputation for being soft and delicate, the fibres that constitute the material are surprisingly strong and durable. This makes it useful in a number of more industrial products, such as electronic insulation coils, suture materials for medical use, military-grade parachutes and artillery gunpowder bags, tires and even prosthetic arteries.

China is once again the leading producer of silk at 146,000 metric tonnes per year. Along with the second largest producer, India, the two countries produce more than 60 percent of the world’s annual silk supply.

So what’s next for silk? Scientists recently made a breakthrough by inventing a method to produce artificial spider silk that is both biodegradable and as strong as steel. The spinning process mimics the way that spiders produce the fibres naturally.

“In the future, this may allow industrial production of artificial spider silk for biomaterial applications or for the manufacture of advanced textiles,” said Dr Anna Rising, a member of the team of Swedish researchers developing the new method.

The continued mechanisation of silk production could render the good old silkworm obsolete – but that remains to be seen. For now, silk is very much part and parcel of the luxury industry, whether it be high fashion or five-star hotels. After all, if silk is fit for an emperor, it’s a material most definitely worth flaunting.

Text: Emily Petsko

International Women’s Day: 6 inspirational women who made their mark on Hong Kong

Today, 8 March, marks the occasion of International Women’s Day. Founded in the early 1900s, the event has grown over the years, now serving as a way to recognise the struggle for women’s rights around the world.

Hong Kong has had no shortage of trailblazing women, all of whom made valuable and groundbreaking contributions to their respective fields, from education to sports to government. Here are just a few of the exceptional women to make their mark on Hong Kong’s history over the years:

Irene Cheng, first female university graduate in Hong Kong

A member of the affluent Ho Tung family, Irene could have led a comfortable, carefree life, but instead she set out to achieve more. In 1926, she became Hong Kong’s first female university graduate, receiving an English degree from Hong Kong University. After earning a doctorate in London, she moved to Guangzhou to teach at Lingnan University and became a member of the Ministry of Education.

In 1948 she returned to Hong Kong and became the city’s first senior education officer. Her motivation was partly inspired by her mother, Lady Clara Ho Tung, who told her, “Gather all the learning you can from your teachers, study to serve humanity and hand over your knowledge to others.”

Hazel Ying Lee, first Chinese-American female pilot in US military

Although she was born in Portland, Oregon, the Chinese-American pilot became a hero in both China and the US for helping to protect both countries during World War II.

In 1933, Hazel travelled to China to volunteer for the Chinese Air Force, but was turned away because she was a woman. Instead, she stayed in Canton and flew for a private airline until 1937, when Japan invaded China. She survived the bombing attacks and escaped to Hong Kong, where she continued to help the war effort by visiting a refugee camp for women with babies. She then returned to the US and ultimately became the first Chinese-American woman to fly for the US military, and was tasked with ferrying aircrafts from manufacturers to North America airfields.

Tragically, she died in a crash in 1944. Her sister, Frances Tong, said of Hazel: “It so happened that Hazel got her pilot’s license right after the passing of our father. If dad had still been there, I don’t think she would have been able to get it. But she knew that’s what she wanted to do. She didn’t care if it was ladylike or not.”

Emily Lau Wai-hing, first elected legislator in Hong Kong

Also dubbed an “Iron Lady,” in 1991 Emily Lau Wai-hing became the first woman to be elected to Hong Kong’s Legislative Council. She also served as chairperson of the pro-democracy Democratic Party.

Previously working as a journalist, she famously posed a controversial question to Margaret Thatcher in 1984 about the Sino-British Joint Declaration to “deliver over 5 million people into the hands of a communist dictatorship.” She has been an unwavering advocate of a free press and human rights, often flying to Geneva to attend United Nations hearings on human rights issues.

When she left Legco last year, she vowed to continue serving civil society: “My bosses are the Hong Kong people,” she said. “I have no conflict of interests or conflict of roles. I devoted all my time to serving the Hong Kong people.”

Perveen Crawford, Hong Kong’s first female pilot

Perveen became Hong Kong’s first female pilot in 1995, and she is now on track to become the city’s first astronaut. After introducing herself to Virgin Group founder Richard Branson at a party, she was offered a once-in-a-lifetime trip to outer space as part of Virgin Galactic’s push to create a space tourism industry. Originally scheduled for 2008, the trip was delayed after some setbacks, but 100 people have already signed on including the likes of John Travolta, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie.

Perveen was quoted as saying, “My husband and kids don’t think it is completely safe. But I told them it’s more dangerous to cross the road in Hong Kong. Besides, I’m not afraid of death. I would rather die and float gracefully in space than be buried on Earth.”

Lee Lai-shan, Hong Kong’s first Olympics gold medalist

Professional windsurfer Lee Lai-shan was not only the first woman to win an Olympic gold medal for Hong Kong, but she also remains the only person in the city’s history – male or female – to clinch the top athletic award. Affectionately known as “San San,” the athlete, now 46, won gold at the 1996 summer games in Atlanta while representing the then British colony. After winning, she proudly announced to media: “Hong Kong athletes are not rubbish!” And right she was.

Margaret Leung Ko May-yee, first female CEO of a Hong Kong bank

Hong Kong-born Margaret Leung Ko May-yee became the first female CEO of a Hong Kong-listed bank when she took the reigns as Hang Seng Bank’s head honcho in 2009.

After graduating from Hong Kong University in 1975, she started working at Bank of America, followed by various positions at HSBC in retail, commercial and investment banking. In 1985, she decided to relocate to Melbourne for a position with HSBC – something she says changed the trajectory of her career path.

“I was told it would not be right for a woman to leave her family in Hong Kong,” she said. “If I hadn’t gone to Australia, I would likely have stayed on in my job, comfortable until retirement and becoming part of the bank’s furniture.”

When she returned to Hong Kong, she made sure that didn’t happen.

Text: Emily Petsko

Hong Kong chocolatiers look to raise the bar

Chocolate has come a long way. From its humble origins when it was consumed in only its purest form, free of all those scrumptious little add-ons – caramel, nuts, dried fruits, nougat and so on – the moreish foodstuff continues to evolve. The forms and shapes it now comes in are myriad. And surprisingly, it’s not always world-renowned chocolatiers in Switzerland and Belgium that are leading the charge. Asian chocolate makers are getting in on the act too, with tasty – and sometimes downright outlandish – combinations.

Click here to watch the video

Chai with chaga mushroom. Raspberry with rose and açai. Blueberry lavender. Cherry chilli. If these flavour combinations sound unusual on their own, try mixing them with chocolate. These pairings might prove the perfect amuse-bouche, giving your taste buds a pleasant tingle.

They are also the premium chocolate flavours that have been lovingly crafted by Raiz the Bar, a Hong Kong-based, family-owned business and – most notably – the first bean-to-bar organic chocolatier in the city. While other brands ship over frozen chocolate, or melt down couvertures (chocolate blocks) from Europe to create their own confections, Raiz the Bar starts from the finest raw ingredients to create its bespoke confectionary.

The company was founded by two Australian sisters, who are part of a growing group that is leading a vegan, gluten-free, health-conscious movement in Hong Kong. While this trend is well established in Western countries, it has been slow to take off in Asia.

However, this is all starting to change. While the low-cost chocolate confectionary treats found on the shelves of Hong Kong’s multitudinous 7-Elevens – think Twix and KitKat – still dominate market share, premium chocolate (especially dark chocolate) is experiencing high growth. This is led in part by an increasingly health-savvy consumer base. Perhaps most surprisingly, Asia is behind that demand.

“Growth of the chocolate industry over the last decade has been driven in large part by an increasing awareness of the health benefits of certain types of chocolate and growing popularity in Asia Pacific countries,” states a report by Value Research. “As consumers in these areas grow more accustomed to ‘western’ tastes, demand for chocolate has been booming.”

Rising incomes in Asia, particularly in China and India, are expected to contribute to a 30 percent increase in the global demand for cocoa over the next three years.

The report also found that “unique products and consumption experiences are keeping consumers coming back for more.”
According to Priscilla Soligo, who runs Raiz the Bar alongside her sister, Rachel Whitfield: “Our chocolates are free of refined sugar, dairy, gluten, soy, peanuts, tree nuts and GMOs. There is absolutely zero junk in our chocolates.”

“Our chocolates are free of refined sugar, dairy, gluten, soy, peanuts and tree nuts. There is absolutely zero junk in our chocolates”

In fact, the bars are considered so healthy that they are sold in wellness centres around Hong Kong, and the foodstuffs will soon be available for purchase in mainland China and other countries. The question, then, is how does Raiz the Bar ensure a taste that meets the high standards of chocolate aficionados?

The answer – like the brand’s ethos – can be traced back to the bean itself. Instead of using milk or coconut oil, cacao butter is extracted from the bean and mixed with the chocolate to produce a finished product that is creamy and smooth.

Rather than roasting their cacao beans – like most chocolate makers – they leave the beans raw for a pure, unadulterated taste of “real chocolate” without the distraction of other flavours that emerge during the roasting process. The beans, which are sourced primarily from Indonesia, are fermented and dried, then compressed to extract the cacao nibs and cacao butter. Once these products are ground down and liquefied, the chocolate is tempered and other flavours are added to the mix.

The result is a product that is high in magnesium (which aids muscle recovery) and has a low glycemic index. Chocolate is also one of the best sources of phenylethylamines. These compounds are naturally produced in the brain and often called the “love drug” for their ability to arouse feelings similar to the elation that comes with being particularly smitten.

It’s unsurprising, then, that chocolate lovers are willing to part with top dollar for that cacao-based feel-good hit. Despite fluctuations in chocolate prices due to extreme weather and political instability in some cacao-producing countries, the average chocolate consumer will spare no expense when it comes to this decadent treat, according to Value Research.

“Chocolate consumers are considerably price insensitive,” the report states. “Except in rare circumstances consumers are willing to purchase what they consider an ‘affordable luxury.’”

This is backed up by just how much chocoholics are willing to spend to sink their teeth into the tasty foodstuff.

For the ultimate in luxury cocoa comfort, sweet tooths should consider To’ak, an Ecuador-based brand that has repeatedly claimed the title as the world’s most expensive chocolate. One particular offering, the Vintage 2014 bar, retails for US$345 (HK$2,680) per 1.76 ounces. Much like how a fine brandy or wine is aged in barrels, the chocolate is placed for 18 months in a 50-year-old French oak Cognac cask. Only 100 bars were produced – all of which quickly sold out.

As described by To’ak: “The finest of wines, be they from Bordeaux or Napa or Tokaj (in Hungary), allow us the privilege of tasting the valley in which the grape was grown. We wanted to offer this same privilege to connoisseurs of chocolate.

“The idea of ageing our chocolate in a Cognac cask came about quite naturally. Of all the spirits that we paired To’ak with, Cognac in general was always the best partner. In most cases, the progeny of the two flavors – spirit and chocolate – was an enhancement of both. In the best of cases, the combination could rightfully be described as sublime.”

Even if they do say so themselves. But there’s little doubt the Ecuadorian chocolatier takes its craft seriously.

The brand’s “tasting guide” sounds similar to the steps that would be taken at a wine tasting. It recommends cleansing the palate with green apple or white bread, then observing the colour and sheen of the chocolate, followed by the cracking sound when the bar is split into a bite-sized piece. After that, it’s time for the sniff and taste test.

“Some chocolatiers even experiment with distinctly Chinese flavours like fermented bean curd, black garlic and black sesame”

The chocolate purists at To’ak even pack a pair of hand-made, tweezer-like “tasting utensils” into each box of chocolate to prevent any scents on the consumer’s skin from muddling the aroma, and to avoid any “corruption” of the flavour that could be caused by skin contact.

What consumers are paying for is the taste, of course, but also time. It’s a long and laborious process to take a cacoa bean and turn it into a premium dark chocolate with a taste that is exceptional enough to make consumers overlook the price tag.

Other luxury chocolate brands, like La Maison du Chocolat and Godiva, have also been popular among Chinese consumers – proof that for many, quality rather than economy is the main consideration.

Another homegrown Hong Kong business is Vero. It has been a staple in the city’s chocolate industry for over a decade. The artisanal brand no longer has any retail locations, except for a few occasional pop-up shops, and has instead shifted focus to the bespoke and luxury market. Many of Vero’s clients include corporations, banks and hotels looking for a unique way to increase their brand recognition – and Vero has taken an all-consuming approach to this challenge.

Company logos are not only imprinted onto and engraved into Vero’s chocolates, but they can also be moulded onto chocolates through the use of a 3-D machine, giving the logo a raised effect rather than a sunken or flat surface. This service has been hugely popular and is evidence of the growing demand for a chocolate that not only tastes good, but it also aesthetically pleasing and beautifully packaged.

“The taste, of course, is important, but I think that the look of it – the shape, as well, and the colour (are equally important),” says Christine Chan, director of business development at Vero. “If you see the Japanese market, the trend is to use a lot of different colours – very sharp, very colourful. People are looking for something more than just plain dark chocolate.”

Vero starts with a couverture containing fresh ingredients from France, Italy and Belgium, then melts it down and adds unique ingredients, sometimes even experimenting with distinctly Chinese flavours like fermented bean curd, black garlic and black sesame, while also sticking to tried-and-tested ingredients like salted caramel and hazelnut.

One unique limited edition set called “Lunar,” released for the Mid-Autumn Festival last year, included miniature chocolates shaped like the moon, with craters and varying shapes and colours. It featured a white chocolate full moon, different shades of milk chocolate and ended with a dark chocolate eclipse, with fillings including toasted black sesame, raspberry jelly, and yuzu and mandarin pearls.

While bespoke chocolate makers are unlikely to surpass the sales of corporate giants like Nestlé and Hershey’s anytime soon, a finely crafted artisanal chocolate will always be a worthy investment among consumers with refined tastes.

Perhaps American actress Mariska Hargitay put it best: “Chocolate is the first luxury. It has so many things wrapped up in it: deliciousness in the moment, childhood memories and that grin-inducing feeling of getting a reward for being good.”

And even when no reward is merited, a piece of chocolate just tastes so darned good.

Text: Emily Petsko

As C.Y. Leung comes to the end of his term, we take a look at his time in office

“Politics is the art of choosing between the disastrous and the unpalatable.”

So said Canadian economist and thinker John Kenneth Galbraith. With that sentiment in mind, it’s difficult to think of public figures more polarising than Hong Kong’s incumbent Chief Executive, C.Y. Leung. However, there was seemingly a genuine and unified reaction of shock when Leung – having served as the city’s top official since 2012 – announced his decision not to seek re-election this year, after serving just one term as Hong Kong’s political leader.

“After I made the announcement I knew that I could now have more time for my family, and I felt relieved. My family supports my decision,” said Leung.

C.Y. Leung – or Leung Chun-ying, to quote his full name – was born on 12 August 1954 in what was then British Hong Kong. He was afforded a scholarship to King’s College in Hong Kong, where he attended secondary school before studying at Hong Kong Polytechnic. Upon graduating in 1974, Leung undertook further studies at Bristol Polytechnic in the UK before finishing first in his class in 1977.

Although he was undoubtedly a good student and a diligent worker, there was little at this point to suggest that Leung was destined for a future as Hong Kong’s top politician. His career began modestly with a job at real estate company Jones Lang Wootton (JLW) where he worked for five years.

“While Leung’s tenure was a mixed bag, it’s fair to say he fulfilled some of his campaign promises”

Upon leaving JLW, Leung joined the Hong Kong Basic Law Consultative Committee in 1985, his first foray into politics. Leung would later become real estate advisor for Zhu Rongji, when the latter was mayor and party chief in Shanghai from 1998 to 2003. Zhu would go on to be vice-premier and eventually fifth premier of the People’s Republic of China. It’s not difficult to imagine that this time spent in such elite political company may well have sown the seed that would blossom into Leung’s steadfast political ambition.

Officially announcing his decision to run as Hong Kong Chief Executive in 2011 – two years after hinting at the prospect – Leung was elected on 1 July 2012 after a hard-fought campaign.

After five years in the hot seat his term comes to an end later this year. In today’s fleet-footed digital age, where information travels ever-faster and attention spans grow ever-shorter, Hong Kong has already turned its rapt attention to the next election for Chief Executive.

Leung gave his final policy address recently, in which he was quoted as saying: “I don’t want to create any legacy, but I think it would be useful for everyone to actually go through the policy addresses of the past five years … and ask whether or not these are the right policies and measures that people in Hong Kong need.”

in mind we take a look back at some of these policies and measures and ask exactly what kind of reluctant legacy will C.Y. Leung leave as Chief Executive?

While most will agree that Leung’s tenure as Chief Executive was a mixed bag at best, there are those who cannot deny that he managed to fulfil some of his campaign promises successfully.

Welcomed by workers but not as well received by businesses, Leung finally announced his intention to scrap the controversial Mandatory Provident Fund offsetting mechanism during his final policy address on January 18th this year. The offsetting mechanism previously allowed employers to use money they put into workers’ retirement funds to cover their severance and long-service payments. Workers considered it an unfair policy, which has sparked controversy and protests since the policy was introduced in 2000.

To ease the transition, the government is expected to subsidise the new setup over the next 10 years – with an estimated cost of HK$1 billion for the first year alone. While this comes very near the end of his term, it is nonetheless a campaign promise fulfilled, much to the approval of the average Hong Kong worker.

Other successes that Leung has enjoyed while in office include promptly dealing with the milk powder shortage brought on by reports of tainted milk powder on the mainland in 2013. Parallel traders from the mainland made life difficult for local mothers when they bought up local stock of milk powder to bring back across the border for re-sale. Leung swiftly declared a limit of two cans per person, which alleviated the shortage and brought relief to local mothers.

Similarly, Leung also acted decisively when mainland mothers were overwhelming the supply of hospital beds in Hong Kong. Pregnant mainland mothers made their way to Hong Kong in large numbers for dual purpose: to take advantage of the city’s premium private healthcare, while hoping to secure Hong Kong residency for their child by giving birth in the city. Leung curtailed the strain being placed on local maternity wards by announcing a ban on non-local parents having babies in Hong Kong. This resulted in the number of babies born to non-local parents being cut from more than 35,000 per year to about 800 per year and freeing up much needed maternity beds for local mothers-to-be.

One of Leung’s major campaign promises was addressing Hong Kong’s housing shortage. Leung has made this a priority but has arguably had less success in this area.

At the end of 2016 the government announced it would maintain a target of adding 280,000 public flats and 180,000 private flats to the housing market within a decade. While efforts have no doubt been made in identifying potential land for re-development, the shortage of readily available land and opposition to re-zoning of existing land has considerably hampered any real progress. Despite his best efforts, Hong Kong retains the undesirable honour of being one of the world’s most expensive cities to live in – not least due to the high cost of apartment rentals.

“After I step down, I would like the new government to continue to look after the underprivileged”

Another issue high on Leung’s agenda has been attempts to address environmental pollution in the city. Again, critics will claim that more could have been done while others have praised Leung’s initiatives to force ocean-going ships to switch to cleaner fuel and efforts to replace thousands of heavily polluting vehicles. While this has undoubtedly had some impact on the city’s air quality, Leung and the government have made little headway in addressing the city’s waste disposal issues.

In terms of environmental conservation, Leung’s government was lauded for a plan to phase out the local ivory trade by 2021. However, others point to hypocrisy in the fact that no allowances have been made for Chinese white dolphins – a species that is currently in danger of extinction. Its habitat is under dire threat from infrastructure projects such as the Hong Kong–Zuhai–Macau bridge.

It would also be impossible to talk about C.Y. Leung’s tenure as Chief Executive without mentioning Occupy Central. In late September 2014, students and protestors took to the streets to rally against a decision by the Standing Committee of the National People’s Congress (NPCSC) regarding proposed reforms to the Hong Kong electoral system. The decision was widely seen to be highly restrictive, and tantamount to the Chinese Communist Party’s pre-screening of the candidates for the leadership of Hong Kong.

What followed was 79 days of protests, where students set up camp in several of the city’s high-profile areas. On the first night of the protests, events culminated in the firing of tear gas by police on protestors on C.Y. Leung’s order. Not only was this incident harmful for Leung’s poll numbers but it also thrust Hong Kong politics firmly into the international spotlight, no doubt much to Beijing’s annoyance.

In policy terms, C.Y. Leung has himself declared that he has basically delivered on all his election promises, while his critics point to a lack of initiatives to heal the social and political divides that have marked his time in power. On the other hand, he has also been hailed for his shift of focus from pure politics to more developmental policies that address the standard of living in the city.

“After I step down, speaking as a Hong Kong person, I would like … the new government to continue to look after the underprivileged, particularly the elderly,” says Leung.

For better or worse, C.Y. Leung has left his indelible mark on our city. As with anything political, it might be some time before we can actually gauge the effectiveness of his policies. One thing is certain, though. Whoever wins this year’s election has quite a job ahead of them.

Text: Hans Schlaikier

Fitness Video: Start the New Year off on the right foot

If you’re feeling a bit unfit (fat) after gorging yourself on fish, pork and rice cake over Chinese New Year, or you just want to start the New Year in a positive way, then we have the video for you.

We spoke to fitness coach Tricia Yap to find out how easy it is to exercise at home and what type of mistakes people make when they try to get fit.

Tricia also demonstrated some easy exercises, along with a 5-minute workout to do at home.

So now you really have no excuse.

Turn Back Time: Hong Kong’s beauty industry grows ever-larger

The Curious Case of Benjamin Button – a novella by F. Scott Fitzgerald, who most famously penned The Great Gatsby – tells the story of a man who grows younger with age.

Benjamin is born into the body of a 70-year-old man, but as the years go by, his wrinkles mysteriously fade and the grey hairs vanish. He reverts back to middle age, then to early adulthood and finally adolescence. In his final years of life, his physique is indistinguishable from that of a child.

In some ways, Benjamin Button’s case wouldn’t seem all that curious in 2017. Recent groundbreaking research by the US-based Salk Institute has presented convincing evidence that the ageing process is reversible at a cellular level. Using a type of gene therapy that ‘rewinds’ adult cells, scientists successfully made mice look younger, prolonged their lives by 30 percent, and gave them straighter spines and better cardiovascular health – all after six weeks of treatment. The tests had the same effect on human cells in vitro.

“Our study shows that ageing may not have to proceed in one direction,” Juan Carlos Izpisua Belmonte, who led the study, told The Guardian. “With careful modulation, ageing might be reversed.”

Researchers are still determining how to apply these findings in real live humans – something they say could take a decade. In the meantime, the anti-ageing and ‘cosmeceutical’ industry continues to grow ever-larger, with new anti-wrinkle serums and ‘miracle’ creams hitting the market each week. By some estimates, the global anti-ageing market is expected to hit US$216.5 billion (HK$1.68 trillion) in 2021. According to the report by Zion Market Research, the market was valued at US$140.3 billion in 2015.

In Hong Kong, where beauty spas are unregulated and many anti-ageing devices are uncertified, it can be difficult to know which treatments are safe. For some, the quest for beauty has even been fatal. In 2012, three Hong Kong women suffered septic shock – and one ultimately died – after being given a treatment called DC-CIK, which is typically used on cancer patients. Some beauty clinics have touted the unfounded claim that this treatment – which involves withdrawing blood from a patient and injecting it back into the veins – can make the skin look younger. Three men were charged with manslaughter in connection with the woman’s death, including the owner of the DR Esthetic Centre Limited clinic in Causeway Bay, where the women had undergone the procedure.

There have also been reports of extreme treatments with serious health risks, like the Chinese “fire facial” in which an alcohol-soaked towel is draped across the face and lit on fire – supposedly to regenerate cells and reduce wrinkles. For those who are dead serious about reclaiming their youth, no level of pain or price tag is high enough to stop them.

Hong Kong-based physician Susan Jamieson, who lectures on anti-ageing and has treated celebrities like Mick Jagger and Fergie of The Black Eyed Peas, has some simple advice for such determined beauty seekers: “Don’t go to beauty clinics, go to a doctor. Clinics all over the place are using unregistered products,” Dr Jamieson says. “And if the businesses are small, they get away with it because people don’t notice.” The Hong Kong government has taken some steps towards regulating the industry. Last month, it announced a proposal for beauty devices to be categorised by level of risk. For high-risk devices, such as skin lasers, doctors would need to be on hand to operate the machines or, at the very least, to supervise the treatment process.

The local Federation of Beauty Industry has denounced the proposal, calling it “discrimination against beauticians as it is confusing the cosmetic and medical markets,” industry chairman Nelson Yip Sai-hung told the South China Morning Post.
Indeed, many businesses in Hong Kong have blurred the line between medical and cosmetic services. At The Face Magic Haven ‘medi spa’ in Central, treatments are administered by staff with nursing backgrounds, and doctors are on hand to give treatments involving injections.

The spa is run by Deborah Sims, a former champion swimmer who had her own television programme. Sims said she would support some degree of government control over treatments, stressing that “beauty salons that have no training and want to make a fast buck” have negatively affected the beauty industry’s reputation.

The Face Magic Haven, which was recently named the Best Luxury Medical Spa by the Korean Newspaper Association, has an extensive treatment menu. It includes everything from ‘fruit acid’ glycolic peels to Botox and dermal fillers to a ‘placenta essence’ treatment that is said to promote blood circulation and accelerate metabolism.

The spa’s newest treatment, the Byonik pulse-triggered laser, is one of the latest technological innovations in the anti-ageing market. Lasers fire in sync with the client’s pulse, thus ensuring that hyaluronic acid and anti-oxidants are absorbed into skin cells as they expand.

Even the most laser-phobic of clients (like the author of this article) may find themselves relaxing a few minutes into the treatment. It is entirely pain-free; the only minor discomfort is a bright red light that flashes into view when the hand-held laser sweeps the skin surrounding the eyes, which are protected by goggles.
The results are hard to deny. After the hour-long treatment is complete, the skin feels smooth and hydrated, and looks positively radiant. A single treatment can yield effects lasting a month, while successive treatments (eight are recommended) can prolong results for one year.

Another popular option at The Face Magic Haven is the ‘Lunch Hour Facelift,’ so named for its 50-minute treatment time. Fine threads are inserted under the skin to tighten and lift sagging skin. While it is more invasive than a laser treatment, it is non-surgical and carries a short recovery time.

“The thought of putting threads into your skin has many saying, ‘Oh my God,’ but again, they don’t understand [how it works],” Sims says. “The threads that we use are all dissolvable threads.”
Although Dr Jamieson’s private practice in Central’s Asia Standard Tower is strictly a medical clinic – offering treatments such as stress management and hormone replacement – some women come in seeking more youthful and radiant skin by way of an ‘acupuncture facial.’

Using a traditional Chinese method, ultra-fine needles are inserted into the face at different pressure points, which redirects the flow of energy, or ‘qi,’ and stimulates the production of collagen for firmer skin, Dr Jamieson says.
“Women love it. They come in regularly every week for that. It increases blood circulation in the skin, it gives you a mini face lift and it increases skin clarity,” she says.

For those who aren’t too keen on lasers or needles, creams and serums are still the primary choice for many seeking younger skin. And although many skin care brands peddle snake oil serums that do little to reduce wrinkles, the industry is arguably more reputable than ever.

Dr Björn Örvar, who holds a doctorate in plant molecular biology and co-founded skin care brand Bioeffect, thinks so at least.

“I think [the industry] is maturing in the sense that we have more real science now than we used to have,” Dr Örvar says. “We are seeing these companies becoming more and more serious about what actually works, and when we talk about what actually works in terms of skin care products, there are not many options.”

A team of Icelandic scientists, including Dr Örvar, took a groundbreaking approach to skin care when they started producing tiny proteins called ‘growth factors,’ which are used for stem cell research but can also be used to slow the ageing process in skin cells. Thus, Bioeffect was born, and it is now used by 30 percent of Icelandic women over the age of 30, as well as a slew of women around the world. China is now the company’s fastest-growing market.

The success of the Bioeffect serum – which contains only seven ingredients – also points to a consumer populace that is no longer wooed by attractive packaging or exotic-sounding ingredients. What they want is proven results.

“We are appealing to the group that we call the ‘beautyistas,’” Dr Orvar says. “They’re more concerned about what they put on their skin … and they want to know if it does something to the skin, if it’s really helping. I think this population is growing and growing.”

More than ever before, women in their 20’s are starting to take preventative measures to preserve their youthful glow longer, and men are increasingly purchasing anti-ageing products and treatments, too.

While many treatments work wonders, there are no silver bullets when it comes to anti-ageing. Physicians are quick to stress that a total-body approach is most effective, which includes a well-balanced diet, exercise, a sound mindset and overall healthy lifestyle.

“You can’t separate the skin and appearance from internal health, but people do, and they just think they’ll go for a bit of Botox and look great,” Dr Jamieson says.

“We all love to look good, but at the end of the day, if you don’t feel good it doesn’t get you very far. Inner glow leads to outer glow.”

Written by Emily Petsko

Zodiac tips for loved-up pairs ahead of Valentine’s Day

Are you and your partner a match made in heaven, or star-crossed lovers doomed from the start? Do your celestial signs align, both physically and emotionally? Let astrology be the judge.

Valentine’s Day has once again arrived, with swathes of loved-up pairs seeking to celebrate the day with a romantic rendezvous. Sometimes, though, a little extra-cosmological support is needed to make sure you and your lover are on the same celestial page. While some signs complement each other perfectly, others are less well matched, which could lead to emotional and physical strife.

When it comes to finding out how well suited you and your other half are – publically and behind closed doors – the zodiac’s pairings give a general idea of what to expect. Although no two people are the same, the various defining traits that are attributed to each sign can help guide you on your path to relationship satisfaction. Are you an attentive lover or is it adventure that you seek? Are you a passionate romantic or a coy wallflower? Perhaps it’s variety and the unexpected that you love the most? Read on for our comprehensive celestial compatibility guide to love, romance and everything inbetween…

Aries

March 21 – April 19
Relationship traits: Passionate, energetic, pursuer
Most compatible with: Leo, Libra, Gemini, Scorpio
Least compatible with: Cancer, Capricorn

Assertive Aries is the ram, the first sign of the zodiac and a fire sign. This makes you self-assured, extroverted and eager when part of a couple. More of an in-the-moment than a hearts-and-flowers sign, you like open, honest relationships with plenty of physical intimacy. You prefer to pursue rather than be pursued, and you’re not afraid to say exactly what you want. You are unabashedly fiery and confident which can sometimes come across as dominant; be gentle and thoughtful at times.

Aries Valentine’s Day Tip: Spoil your loved one with a special night just for them. It’s long overdue.

Taurus

April 20 – May 20
Relationship traits: Traditional, sensual and romantic
Most compatible with: Virgo, Capricorn, Cancer, Pisces
Least compatible with: Leo, Aquarius

As a Taurian, you value sensual pleasures more than other signs and have a heightened sense of smell, sound and touch. You can be a bit picky when it comes to choosing a partner, preferring to wait until the right person comes along. You are thoughtful and considerate when it comes to loving relationships and will express great consideration for the needs of others. You love being wooed, so potential love interests should wine and dine you for romantic success. A well-thought out gift may be coming your way.

Taurus Valentine’s Day Tip: Be spontaneous. Make a bit more effort than you usually would and be open to new ideas.

Cancer

June 21 – July 22
Relationship traits: Passionate, protective and elusive
Most compatible with: Taurus, Virgo, Pisces
Least compatible with: Aries, Libra

Known for their love of stability, Cancers seek faithful, loyal and loving partners. You are sensual and creative, but you’re also wary when it comes to new love interests. Once you feel secure, your confidence grows both emotionally and physically. You love romance and romantic gestures, especially dinner à deux. You are sometimes possessive of the ones you love, and often need lots of reassurance or loving words. Trust more and you’ll soon see how little substance your fears have.

Cancer Valentine’s Day Tip: Cook a romantic meal for two and shower your partner with praise.

Leo

July 23 – August 22
Relationship traits: Sensual, social and attentive
Most compatible with: Aries, Sagittarius, Leo
Least compatible with: Taurus, Scorpio

Known for their high libido and fiery nature, Leos are one of the most passionate signs of the zodiac. You have an intense and powerful chemistry that draws plenty of attention from the opposite sex. You love intimacy and are extremely attentive when it comes to physical interaction. However you also need constant reassurance from your partner in private, as well as in social situations. Sometimes you can be overly demanding so take a step back once in a while.

Leo Valentine’s Day Tip: Let your partner know you’re thinking about them too, with a thoughtful gift or trip away.

Gemini

May 21 – June 20
Relationship traits: Flirty, experimental and carefree
Most compatible with: Libra, Aquarius, Aries, Leo
Least compatible with: Virgo and Pisces

Geminis are renowned for their flirtatious side and are quite open when it comes to experimentation, or even mysterious trysts in new places. You have great communication skills and you look for fun, easygoing partners. In the past, you have flitted from one relationship to another, although you can also be loyal and loving. You can be somewhat indecisive at times, making it hard for your other half to address your needs. You need to be more assertive as it will help your relationship in the long run.

Gemini Valentine’s Day Tip: Spend time sharing thoughts, secrets and dreams with your partner.

Virgo

August 23 – September 22
Relationship traits: Sensitive, loving and intimate
Most compatible with: Taurus, Capricorn, Cancer, Scorpio
Least compatible with: Gemini, Sagittarius

Highly sensual, Virgos look for physical intimacy with their partners at all times. Forget fancy dinners or extravagant gifts, it is closeness with your beloved that you seek. You wear your heart on your sleeve and are immensely proud of your relationship. You often look for more extroverted star signs and love appearing in public as a Hollywood-perfect couple. Behind closed doors, however, you’re far more adventurous and ready to shake off your conventional image. Don’t be afraid to share your innermost thoughts.

Virgo Valentine’s Day Tip: Splash out and celebrate your loved-up status, perhaps at a special restaurant you’ve been meaning to try.

Libra

September 23 – October 22
Relationship traits: Coy, experienced and seductive
Most compatible with: Aries, Gemini, Leo, Sagittarius
Least compatible with: Cancer, Capricorn

The most refined sign of the zodiac, Libras seek sophisticated tête-à-têtes with distinguished lovers. You are hyper-aware of your surroundings, so the setting is as important as the person, especially if they are a new partner. You are flirty and seductive, but also a tad secretive when it comes to socially romantic situations. You prefer to be tucked away than in a public setting and like to keep things discreet. Don’t be afraid to show your feelings, you may find it strengthens your relationship.

Libra Valentine’s Day Tip: Spill your heart. Your partner is used to you being secretive, so open up for a change.

Scorpio

October 23 – November 21
Relationship traits: Fiery, communicative and experimental
Most compatible with: Cancer, Pisces, Gemini, Libra, Scorpio
Least compatible with: Leo, Aquarius

Many believe Scorpios to be untameable, thanks to their highly sensual, extroverted nature. Ardently amorous though you may be, you are also willing to listen to your partner – especially if they want to explore new avenues in your relationship. You also like to keep your lover on their toes, and aren’t afraid to let them know if you’re not satisfied. You like to give, but you also usually get what you want. Try to keep an open mind; your partner might be too shy to open up to you.

Scorpio Valentine’s Day Tip: Plan to do something with each other that you’ve never tried before.

Capricorn

December 22 – January 19
Relationship traits: Considerate, romantic and intuitive
Most compatible with: Taurus, Virgo, Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces
Least compatible with: Aries, Libra

Stable without being dull, Capricorns are one of the most loving and reliable signs of the zodiac. You are prepared to spend time making sure you and your partner are on the same page physically, and you also enjoy making romantic gestures. Sensuality and trust are both deeply crucial to you, especially when it comes to forming a bond with someone. Make sure you are giving off the right signals to your loved one and don’t be afraid to share your inner thoughts.

Capricorn Valentine’s Day Tip: Keep doing what you do best! If you’re feeling particularly amorous, light some candles and enjoy a couple’s massage to get into the romantic mood.

Aquarius

January 20 – February 18
Relationship traits: Discerning, physical, receptive
Most compatible with: Gemini, Aries, Leo, Sagittarius
Least compatible with: Taurus, Scorpio

Aquarians are notably fickle when it comes to giving bedroom preferences away. You pride yourself on your clear-headedness and rationale. Once you meet the right person, though, these scruples often fall by the wayside. You like to be mentally stimulated and that’s often the way to your heart. You like to explore, but you don’t like to be caged in. Finding the right physical and emotional match is important to you but make sure you aren’t being too judgemental about potential suitors – someone’s got their eye on you.

Aquarius Valentine’s Day Tip: Experiment more than you usually would. Your strict principles may be holding you back.

Sagittarius

November 22 – December 21
Relationship traits: Adventurous, affectionate and flirtatious
Most compatible with: Aries, Libra, Aquarius, Sagittarius
Least compatible with: Virgo, Pisces

Spontaneous Sagittarians are known for their affection and attentiveness. The perpetual wanderer, you love to meet new people and try new things. In relationships, you’re the one usually making suggestions and you are often flirty and, possibly, a bit promiscuous. You’re always up for an adventure, especially if it’s of a romantic nature. While your partner loves spending time with you, remember that alone time can also mean just enjoying each others’ company.

Sagittarius Valentine’s Day Tip: Harness your sense of adventure to your relationship by whisking your lover away on a romantic mini-break.

Pisces

February 19 – March 20
Relationship traits: Discreet, thoughtful and mysterious
Most compatible with: Scorpio, Cancer, Taurus, Virgo, Capricorn
Least compatible with: Gemini, Sagittarius

Playful Pisceans are a source of delight for their partners, and are keen to share interests and pursue adventures together. Moderately physical, you often rely on non-verbal communication with your other half, especially in intimate scenarios. You are very giving in your relationship and happiest when you are relaxing as a pair. You are also – at times – shy, as well as being incredibly loyal. Don’t be afraid to suggest new activities together, too. You need to make sure you don’t get stuck in a domestic rut; your partner may well think the same.

Pisces Valentine’s Day Tip: Vocalise more. Share you inner thoughts and you might be rewarded.

Written by Juliette Silver