Beyond Baker Street and the Final Frontier, Benedict Cumberbatch takes on his Strangest role to date

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He’s intrigued, infuriated and amused as the 21st century incarnation of Sherlock Holmes, the world’s greatest detective. In the rebooted Star Trek franchise, he nearly saw off Captain Kirk and his crew before their re-tooled five-year mission even had a chance to get out of space dock. Now, he is about to debut his take on one of the most remarkable characters in the Marvel Comics universe – a universe that is already home to the mighty Avengers, the extraordinary X-Men and the somewhat eccentric Guardians of the Galaxy.

Doctor Strange, however, Marvel’s master of the arcane arts, is said to represent the greatest cinematic challenge the comic book group has ever tackled. Not only does his multi-dimension, hopping backstory require an unparalleled display of special effects, bringing to life the central character – otherworldly, aloof and almost omnipotent – in a way that could engage the modern blockbuster audience but it also calls for a leading man with a certain magic of his own. It didn’t require a huge leap of faith, then, to cast Benedict Cumberbatch.

The film’s director, Scott Derrickson, certainly had no doubts that Cumberbatch was the man for the job. At first, though, despite the obvious fit, it seemed it wouldn’t happen. The actor was already contracted to play Hamlet in a London stage production at the very time the film was scheduled to shoot.

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“Sherlock might be on the side of the angels, but don’t think for one second that he’s one of them”Derrickson recalls: “Although he was the only actor we seriously considered, it just wasn’t possible. To his credit, he said: ‘I can’t bail out of Hamlet, I’ve given my word.’”

The film’s producers then looked at possible replacements, including Ryan Gosling and Jared Leto. Derrickson, though, insisted on getting his man, reportedly telling Marvel Studios: “It’s got to be Benedict.” Ultimately, he prevailed. In almost an unprecedented move, Marvel agreed to postpone both the filming schedule and the release date of Doctor Strange. Cumberbatch was in.

It was a decision that Cumberbatch clearly welcomed. He said: “I really thought I had to kiss it goodbye. If you can’t jump on board when the ride’s going past, that’s usually it. It was a huge compliment when they came back to me. I knew then I had to fulfil their faith in me.”

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“Sherlock might be on the side of the angels, but don’t think for one second that he’s one of them”

Playing the lead in a Hollywood blockbuster is the latest milestone in the remarkable rise to fame of the 40-year-old British actor. It was only six years ago, however, that he seemingly sprang from nowhere to international acclaim in Sherlock, the BBC’s multi-award winning reimagining of Conan Doyle’s classic detective tales.

It’s clear Cumberbatch adores playing the 21st century Holmes. He says: “I was thrilled with how Sherlock was received. It was such great fun to film. It’s so rewarding when something you enjoy doing is so well received.”

The show, a co-production with PBS, a US network, has now run for three series, with a fourth set to be screened early next year. Its clever and imaginative adaptations of the original Conan Doyle stories have proved a hit with audiences from Beirut to Beijing. For all its story-telling genius, however, it’s Cumberbatch’s portrayal of the strange, sociopathic, emotionally austere Sherlock that has made the show such a hit.

So what does the actor make of his somewhat damaged alter ego? He says: “I don’t think he’s damaged at all. I think it’s all self-inflicted. I think there’s actually an adolescent inside him that is being deliberately repressed in order for him to try and become the ultimate, calculating deduction machine.

“What we do is remind the audience that somebody they have fallen in love with has had to let vulnerability into his life. He has a moral compass of some kind and is actually on the side of the good guys. That, though, shouldn’t make him any less terrifying.

“As Sherlock himself says: ‘I may be on the side of the angels, but don’t think for one second I’m one of them.’ He’s violent and incredibly dark, largely because of what he deals with. There should be moments where you are very uncertain of this person, times that you find him eccentric and rude, but still attractive.”

Cumberbatch also believes that Sherlock’s trademark social awkwardness is a deliberate ploy. He says: “He knows how to turn it on. He knows how to be charming. He knows how to play all the games we play in every social interaction. Yet he withdraws from them.

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“The new Sherlock series is going to be very dark. We’re talking end of the universe dark”

“It’s an athlete thing. He’s reserving what he needs for when he needs it. That’s a huge difference between him and me. I kind of spend myself too easily. I’m far more of a putting it all out there person, whereas he’s incredibly controlled. That is what’s remarkable about him.

“It’s all about control. He just wants control. I think what he realises – and what Dr Watson (his friend and collaborator) teaches him – is that it’s all very well to understand human behaviour, but you have to be human to really get the benefit of it.”

The overnight success of Sherlock sometimes obscures the fact that Cumberbatch was actually a successful actor before the show came along and remains so beyond it. Despite his fondness for the role, he was recently quoted in online media saying that series 4 of Sherlock “feels like the end of an era” – hinting that he may not return to the show as his increasing popularity and work commitments crowd his hectic schedule.
Cumberbatch studied drama at Manchester University, before graduating to LAMDA, the prestigious theatre academy. His first professional appearances were at London’s West End, before breaking into TV while still in his 20s.

He is often bracketed as part of a generation of “posh boy” actors, alongside the likes of Eddie Redmayne and Tom Hiddleston (a close friend of his). In fact, all of them were educated at some of Britain’s most expensive private schools – he went to Harrow, for example, while Redmayne and Hiddleston both attended Eton.

While he’s on record as decrying “posh-bashing” in the popular press, he is unapologetic about his background. He says: “I am desperately proud of my parents for sending me to Harrow. It was a huge stretch for them. They were working actors who often never knew when the next payday would come along. My parents wanted the best for me. I wasn’t sent to the school my dad went to. I’m not a hereditary peer or anything like that.”
In the past, Cumberbatch has suggested that his social class has hindered his acting career, limiting the number of roles that he is considered for. Post-Sherlock, however, that seems much less of a handicap.

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In the last few years, he’s starred as the British war-time code-breaker Alan Turing in The Imitation Game – a role for which he was nominated for an Oscar. He’s also played the pious plantation owner William Prince Ford in the award-winning movie 12 Years a Slave and provided the voice of Smaug, The Hobbit’s terrifying dragon. He also turned in a mesmerising performance as Khan, the arch-villain in Into Darkness, the second instalment in the rebooted Star Trek franchise. Although Doctor Strange is set to take Cumberbatch to another level entirely, he is quick to put the role into a broader perspective. He says: “I’m very excited about the opportunities that a bigger audience gives you, but that’s all it is, really. It’s another source of work. People look at being in big films as a sort of zenith. It’s really not.

“For me, every single job is a new beginning, a new starting point where you can learn again and begin again. It’s never a case of: ‘I’ve made it.’ Don’t get me wrong, I count my blessings every day — it’s been wonderful. I do, though, try to treat each job as a job, no matter what scale it is. Otherwise, it could get quite overwhelming. If you ever started believing your own press, you could go a little insane.”

What comes next for Cumberbatch in the wake of Doctor Strange is still unclear. In the immediate future, though, there’s series four of Sherlock to look forward to. The BBC has already confirmed the titles of the first two episodes – The Six Thatchers (a take on the Conan Doyle story The Six Napoleons) and The Lying Detective (a reference to The Dying Detective, an adventure where Holmes narrowly escapes being poisoned).

The pre-publicity has already suggested that Moriarty – Sherlock’s arch-enemy – is set to make a comeback, despite having apparently died in an earlier instalment. There’s also the likelihood that a third Holmes brother – possibly played by Cumberbatch’s pal Tom Hiddleston – will put in an appearance. Meanwhile, the show’s creators have heralded the arrival of a new bad guy, one that they describe as “purest evil, the most evil villain we’ve ever had.”

For his part, Cumberbatch isn’t giving much away, while still promising plenty of surprises for viewers to look forward to. He says: “We’ve moved on to a new step in the evolution of Sherlock in the new series. It will be dark, though. Myopically dark. We’re talking about end of the universe dark…”

Happily, this won’t be the end of Sherlock, as Cumberbatch has already signed up to a fifth series. With his movie career about to go stratospheric in the wake of Doctor Strange – with the Sorcerer Supreme already rumoured to appear in the next Avengers outing – it may be a while before we actually return to Baker Street.

Jonathan Young, co-founder of Tassels, explains how he stays in-step

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You grew up in Hong Kong. Can you tell us a little about your childhood?
I was born here and lived in the city until I was 12. We then moved to Beijing, which was quite unusual back in the 1980s. At the time, most people were looking to move to Canada, the US, the UK or Australia. As my father was going to work in Beijing, he thought it would be good for me to experience life there for two or three years. I studied at a local school and began to learn Mandarin. I’m glad I did. It’s so much easier to learn a language when you’re young. In total, I spent two years studying in Beijing, then I went to boarding school in the UK.

As China is such a big country, my father believed that – in time – it would offer a huge number of business opportunities. He always encouraged my brother and I – and indeed the whole family – to travel. He was a fervent believer that the more you see, the more you learn. It’s so important to get to know different cultures and it’s a lot easier to learn by seeing, feeling and talking to people rather than just by reading books. As a result, my family travelled to more than 30 countries. We would travel every summer and every Christmas. To this day, I still love to travel.

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“When the police first saw the state of the car, they assumed we were all dead”

After living in HK and Beijing, moving to the UK must have been a bit of a culture shock…
Moving from Hong Kong to Beijing, in the first place, involved a degree of culture shock. Back in the ’80s Beijing was very different to how it is now. Today, it’s quite an easy place to live. Back then, though, they had no idea about customer service for instance. They’re getting there now, though. Back in the ’80s, we had to argue with the sales staff all the time.
The UK was very different again. The way that UK people think is quite different to the way Chinese people think. In Hong Kong, for instance, academic success is very important. At boarding school in the UK, though, there was a broader approach. They believed you should not limit yourself to just one area of activity. There was a belief that you should grasp every opportunity and see what you enjoy. In truth, it’s only by trying different things you find out where your strengths lie. It ended up being a much more rounded education.

In terms of Tassels, why do you think it has become such a success in Hong Kong?
Well, we are very selective in terms of the brands we work with, all of which tend to have a considerable heritage. While most of them date back more than 100 years, they are still family-run businesses, all run by people who genuinely love shoes. Another reason is that we are all very knowledgeable when it comes to footwear. When it comes to dealing with customers, we can all talk to them about shoes and share ideas and knowledge. We have become something of a shoe gathering place. People come and see nice shoes and then discuss related issues.

Have you ever had a near-death experience?
When I was 11 years old, I was involved in a major car accident. To this day, my hand still carries the scar. I lost skin and bone so I had to have surgery. They grafted skin from my foot onto my hand and shaved half of the bone from my toe to replace my finger. It all happened when we were driving along the Tolo Highway, when my mom passed out. It was just as she was turning, so we struck a slope and rolled down a flyover. I was thrown out of the car as I wasn’t wearing a seatbelt – that was never a requirement in the ’80s. My brother was also thrown out as the car flipped upside down.
When I opened my eyes, my finger was dangling off my hand. There was blood everywhere. Luckily that was the worst injury. My brother had to have seven stitches on his head and my mother had to have stitches on her finger. All in all, though, it was a very lucky escape. The roof of the car was totally flattened. When the police first saw the state of the car, they assumed everyone had died. Luckily, though, my mother and brother were able to walk to the hospital, while I was taken in a wheelchair.
The police contacted my father to tell him we had been in an accident and advised him to come to the hospital immediately. He was expecting to find us all on stretchers. When he saw us walking out of the ambulance, he was hugely relieved.

Which profession do you consider the most overpaid?
I don’t feel any profession is overpaid. It is a free market so pay reflects the value you add. If you are indeed overpaid, the market should automatically adjust to match the value you add and the demand for your services.

What is in your wallet right now?
Some cash – although I don’t usually carry a lot – some credit cards, ID, of course, and some shareholder cards. I have a stake in several bars and restaurants – including Lilly and Bloom, Play and Studio – so I carry my shareholder cards around. Name cards of course, my joint bank account card with my wife, my Jockey Club card, some receipts and a bunch of different SIM cards for when I am travelling.

Where do you tend to travel to most often?
For business, I travel to the US, the UK and Italy. When it comes to leisure, I travel to Europe once a year for skiing, I love skiing. We try to arrange a ski trip every year to France or Austria. I also love scuba diving, preferably in Malaysia, Indonesia or the Philippines.

Where are your favourite diving haunts?
Sipidan is beautiful and I went to Tubbataha on a live-a-board which was amazing. It is about 16 hours from Palawan Island so you travel out on the boat overnight. The next morning, you are at the dive site and then you just dive, dive, dive for five whole days. You don’t see any land at all, just reefs and two atolls beneath the water. A scary moment came when I saw a six metre whale shark and a tiger shark swim right towards me. While not quite a near-death experience, it was one of the scariest moments I have ever had.
We were diving off a cliff and I was the one furthest out. I was looking out into the distance and suddenly I saw this Great White headed right towards me and I thought: “Hang on a minute, why am I seeing a Great White in the tropics?” I just froze, it was so big. It was not long, but hugely bulky. All I could see was teeth. All the time, I was thinking: “If it keeps on swimming towards me, what am I going to do?”
When it turned, I could see its stripes and I realised it was a tiger shark. We had been told there were sometimes tiger sharks there, but we were lucky to see one. It was clearly a curious shark and it was definitely checking us out.

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“There was a Great White swimming towards me. All I could see was rows and rows of teeth…”

Do you believe in the death penalty?
I don’t. Not because no crime should be punishable by death, but because any judgement could be wrong. Someone could be innocent, wrongly convicted and executed. There is no going back after that. Okay, otherwise, they could have spent time in jail that they didn’t deserve. You can try and compensate for that. You can’t reverse the death sentence though.

How did you propose to your wife?
I proposed in Australia. We had planned a trip there over Christmas. My wife had not travelled as much as I had, so she was keen to see more of the world. As we both like the great outdoors, we decided on a caravan trip. We flew to Perth and rented a 4×4 caravan so we could drive along the trails and go off-road.
I had told myself I would propose during the trip. At first I thought I would do it in the desert, but that didn’t have the right feel and there were too many tourists around. One night, I suggested we drive out to the beach. It was a beautiful beach. We sat and watched the sunset with a bottle of wine. At the time, I thought this is just perfect.
Then, all of a sudden, the wind picked up and there was sand everywhere. It blew into our faces and into our wine glasses. I was left thinking: “This is so bad. It’s not the right time”. Despite this, my fiancée – as she then was – remarked how romantic it was. That persuaded me that it was the right moment after all. As the sun set, I popped the question. And she said yes.

Marie-Christine Lee discusses giving children a sporting chance

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Marie-Christine Lee is the founder of both the Sports for Hope Foundation and Sport Max.

You are the founder of the Sports for Hope Foundation. What led you to set up this particular charity?

I have always loved sports, ever since I was a child. I fundamentally believe that sport can be hugely beneficial – both mentally and physically. Sport gives people a goal and it teaches them to be persistent in many other areas of their lives. It instills in people a never-give-up attitude, something that is essential to have no matter what your aim in life.

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“I tend to trust people too much and sometimes that leads to mistakes”

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“There is one person in my life who is my greatest indulgence and my biggest secret”

I decided to set up my own charitable sports organisation five years ago. I really want to give back to society by helping financially-in-need children here in Hong Kong, particularly through the medium of sport. Overall, we try to use sport as a way of reaching out to help children in need, those who may come from poorer backgrounds. We aim to improve their self-respect and boost their confidence. Overall, we give them something to look forward to and help them with their self-esteem.

Is there anything that keeps you awake at night?
There is nothing that keeps me awake at night. If there is a problem it can be solved eventually. I like to be proactive. You can’t just reflect on a problem. You have to find ways to tackle it and that takes time and effort.

Do you enjoy fancy dress parties?
I kind of like to give people surprises. It’s a fun thing to surprise people in that way. My favourite fancy dress experience was when I dressed up as a character from Avatar because it was challenging to paint my whole face and body, standing up for two hours.

What is your favourite aroma?
Rose. It’s pure and elegant. Very romantic.

Are you a good listener or a good talker?
I think I’m a better talker than a listener. My friends always say to me: “Will you please listen to me before you talk.” That may be because I’m a very confident person, but it’s also a weakness. I may be the most confident, but I’m not necessarily the best or the most intelligent. I do have a lot of compassion, though, and a lot of empathy. Usually, I find the right thing for me to do is to talk first because I always talk from my heart.

Do you know your blood type?
Yes, I do. It’s B-positive.

What’s your favourite colour?
Blue, especially denim blue. I also love the sea. I love the bright, blue sky. They give out energy, hope and happiness.

English or Cantonese?
My mother tongue is Cantonese. But when it comes to expressing my feelings and emotions I feel more comfortable with English.

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Famously, you rode a bike across the Uygur region of northern China. That must have been challenging…

It was part of a fund-raiser and a way of kick-starting my foundation. Whenever I can, I like to take myself out of my comfort zone, as I’ve been very fortunate with my own upbringing. I have always had a lot of love from my family and a lot of support from my friends. As a result, I’ve always lived in a very comfortable environment. So I realised, when I started the Foundation, that I had to show people that you shouldn’t always stay in your comfort zone. Everyone can take on new challenges.

The Uygur region was new to me and I’d never even thought about trying mountain cycling in my life. To make matters more challenging still, even though I had professional riders with me, they had never been there before either. So the whole thing was planned so that we could complete our mission through sheer determination and our ability to adapt to the unknown – the environment, the climate, the culture, the whole thing.

Do you have a secret you could share with us?
I only share my secrets with my family and best friends.

What was the last thing you got for free?
I never get anything for free.

What do you want to be remembered for?
Compassion. Empathy for people. Love for people.

What’s your astrological sign?
Aquarius. While I’m not too knowledgeable about astrology, I’ve been told I am a typical Aquarius. They are very passionate people and they’re very sensitive. It’s also a water sign – and that suits me too. I love the water.

What has been the best birthday present you have ever received?
My best birthday present is love and respect from my children.

If you could bring about world peace or end global famine, which one would you go for?
Can I say both? I don’t think the world’s problems can be separated out. You can’t establish a priority because the two can only be solved jointly.

Are you a radio listener?
Yes, if it’s about sports and health issues.

What are your favourite sports?
My favourite sports are the two I was introduced to when I was very young – tennis and swimming. I’m very competitive and that’s part of the fun of taking part in any sport. Of course, you also have to like the sport – and I love those two in particular.

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“When it comes to expressing my feelings and emotions I’m more comfortable with English” 

When you’re swimming, you’re basically competing against yourself and basically always striving to beat your personal best. With tennis, of course, you’re competing against others, so there’s also interaction in the mix. I basically love anything outdoors. I much prefer to swim in the sea or outside rather than in an indoor pool. And tennis always has to be outdoors for me.

What do you consider to be your biggest mistake?
I tend to trust people too much and sometimes that leads to mistakes.

Do you have a favourite food?
Rice. Steamed. I can even eat rice for breakfast. It’s very much my staple. I cannot eat anything if it’s not accompanied by rice.

Chopsticks or cutlery?
Chopsticks, of course, because my favourite cuisine is Chinese and Japanese.

What has been your greatest indulgence?
Does it have to be materialistic? Can my indulgence be a person? There is one very special person in my life that is my indulgence. This, though, I will keep a secret…
What’s next for you?
I am still very much committed to giving back. So, since the Foundation launched five years ago, I have had to keep coming up with events to raise funds and awareness. I need to spread this concept to the rest of Hong Kong to help make it a more sports-nurturing place. This is affected by the demographic of the city. We have very limited space and the school system is more geared to academic achievements than sporting excellence. On top of that, parents don’t see being an athlete as a long-term thing. They believe it’s better for the children to become doctors, engineers, accountants, lawyers…
I truly don’t believe that is the case. While not everyone can be an Olympian, as long as you have a passion for a particular sport, that will benefit your whole mindset – as well as every other aspect of your life.

Thank You

Pride of the Fall

Pride of the Fall

The long nights are rolling in and there’s just a hint in the air that temperatures are already starting to drop. It’s time to commit your summer look to the deeper recesses of your closet and reinvent yourself for the cooler seasons to come. Thankfully, the way has been prepared. The world’s biggest designer fashion brands have readied their closing clothing collections of 2016, outfits to augment your autumn and to help you weather the worst that winter has to offer. Whether your personal style tends to the more conservative or even if you favour the more outré stylings of the ostentatious end of the haute couture market, you will find something in the following pages that you will do with due delight. From the chic to the sheltering, from the off-the-peg to the off-the-wall, your look is just waiting to be found. For the man about town, there is nothing worse than sporting Last Year’s Thing. You are, after all, most indubitably, a Man for All Seasons.

BERLUTI  BOSS   BOTTEGA VENETA   BRIONI   BURBERRY   CANALI   CORNELIANI   DIOR HOMME   DOLCE & GABBANA   DUNHILL   ETRO   GIEVES & HAWKES   LANVIN   MICHAEL KORS   PAUL SMITH   ROBERTO CAVALLI   SALVATORE FERRAGAMO   TRUSSARDI   VALENTINO   VERSACE   ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Berluti

This collection is all about silhouettes; outlines that are very long and lean – elegant and elevated. Tailored pieces are worn with sweaters; double-breasted sets help to accentuate the silhouette. Fabrics are key, from the softest cashmere and needle-punched wool checks to cotton/linen velvet and heavy rubber. Clearly, Tomas Maier (Creative Director) is always mindful of materials and the way they are best combined. Accessories include a near weightless tote in the softest matte calfskin that can be sealed with a zip. Document holders are in crocodile leather, ID bracelets come in heavy silver, while round sunglasses are colour-tinted. There are no frills, nothing ostentatious. While the collection is discrete, it still exudes an aura of magnificence.

Boss

BOSS Menswear for Fall/Winter 2016 presents a juxtaposition of shiny and matte, textured and smooth. Brushed textures are paired with neoprene; wool contrasts with rubberized finishes. Clean cuts and sharp silhouettes are the signature, and balance is key to the collection. Sharp tailoring is completed with clean sneakers or a backpack. Craftsmanship is also key to the soft, tailored coats made from double cashmere. The handmade construction results in garments that are cleanly finished and super light. Full monochrome looks feature a pop of yellow, rich red or bright blue. Water-resistant jackets are crafted from bonded cotton. Each piece is made in Germany, and pays tribute to master craftsmanship. This season’s message is clear; precise, masculine and sartorial.

Bottega Veneta

This collection is all about silhouettes; outlines that are very long and lean – elegant and elevated. Tailored pieces are worn with sweaters; double-breasted sets help to accentuate the silhouette. Fabrics are key, from the softest cashmere and needle-punched wool checks to cotton/linen velvet and heavy rubber. Clearly, Tomas Maier (Creative Director) is always mindful of materials and the way they are best combined. Accessories include a near weightless tote in the softest matte calfskin that can be sealed with a zip. Document holders are in crocodile leather, ID bracelets come in heavy silver, while round sunglasses are colour-tinted. There are no frills, nothing ostentatious. While the collection is discrete, it still exudes an aura of magnificence.

BRIONI

Brioni’s first collection with Creative Director Justin O’Shea at the helm, recently debuted to much aplomb at the Paris Haute Couture fashion week. The “Paris One” collection pays tribute to the brand’s handmade prêt-à-couture heritage while also marking a new emphasis on what they call “the Brioni lifestyle”. The collection presents soft velvet, leather and patterned shirts and ties in glowing shades of navy, forest green, charcoal and black. Particularly striking were Brioni’s classic three-piece suit lines and how they appeared to be sculpted to the body while the extraordinary use of monochrome colours were another highlight on the catwalk. Brioni once again playfully presents diversity in formalism.

Burberry Prorsum

The “Something Old, Something New, Something Borrowed, Something Blue,” collection was revealed at the custom-built venue in London’s Kensington Gardens. The collection was a celebration of the unification of the brand’s different ready to wear labels and styles, while British singer-songwriter, Benjamin Clementine, performed live from the centre of the venue. The collection celebrates outerwear shapes redefined for relaxed weekends, including; topcoats, duffle coats, military coats and parkas in a combination of Burberry colours; navy, black, claret, purple, camel, mustard and honey. The collection also introduces a new bag, The Satchel, alongside new shoe designs; The Driver and The Derby. In acknowledgment of the sad news of David Bowie’s passing, several of the models wore glitter eye makeup in honour of the fallen star.

CANALI

For Fall/Winter 2016-17, Canali presents a collection that is an exercise in equilibrium, one in which contrasts take centre stage. A range of checks in varying dimensions appear in suits, pants and outerwear. Silhouettes tend to follow the body’s natural contours while sleeves, pant legs, collars and lapels slim down on traditional tailoring. Voluminous coats conceal an unexpectedly lightweight air, thanks to extremely soft wool and alpaca blends. Wool features prominently throughout the rest of the collection in heavy gabardines for suits, jackets, pants, coats and sportswear. The palette takes on a shadowy and industrial air. Belts are integrated via oversized loops directly into pants and coats. Once again Canali renews its style with a meticulous attention to detail and the use of premium fabrics.

CORNELIANI

For A/W 2016 the Corneliani man assembles his look by looking to the fashion of the 1940s. The centre of gravity for trousers and jackets are considerably higher; shoulders are wider, as are waists to a lesser degree and lapels. The retro feel comes courtesy of crocheted details on the waistcoats to micro-geometric effects. The colours reflect classic elegance in caramel, brown and tobacco coloured suits, peacock green and lead grey jackets. Mid-length cashmere coats are oversized and designed to be tied at the waist. The stiff, textured feel of post-Second-World-War fashion is hinted at subtly in the contours of the designs, which break away from the body to restore a sense of independent strength in fashion, all with a whisper of nostalgia.

DOLCE & GABBANA

Dolce & Gabbana’a Men’s Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection is a declaration of love for Italy and its culture, inspired by the iconic “Spaghetti Western” movies directed by Sergio Leone. The scores composed for these movies provided the soundtrack for the fashion show while 79 male models, nearly all of Italian descent, walked down the catwalk in line, in impeccably tailored Dolce & Gabbana creations. It is clear that for Mr Dolce and Mr Gabbana it continues to be important to always convey a story through their collections, and to create and present clothes with a heartwarming soul. The BIG FINALE playfully took the form of pyjamas paired with jackets and embroidered knits.

DIOR HOMME

“How does an individual grow and morph into his present self without nostalgia?” This is the question, Kris Van Assche (Creative Director) posed for Dior Homme’s A/W 2016 collection. In “Ritual Show Square”, lit by stark red neon to the sound of electronic music the collection was presented in a palette of black, red and white. Silhouttes appeared in a combination of exaggerated volumes and shapes. The Oxford bags could be seen to have been transformed into voluminous ‘WORKWEAR”, with couture techniques used to almost disruptive effect, with Dior’s flora prints presenting a symbol of provocation. There is a sense of celebration and rebellion evident throughout this sublime collection.

DUNHILL

This season Dunhill presents the finest traditions of the English gentleman. Protective, hand-engineered pieces, warm and durable: leather coats lined in rich shearing; driving blousons in British racing green; a leather driving topcoat in chestnut goatskin bonded with cashmere are directly inspired by the Dunhill archive. Knitwear is in luxurious Scottish cashmere, Aran patterned and traditionally cable stitched. Sweaters have a long-tail stripe; Jeans are cut from specially-woven hardwearing Japanese selvedge denim. These robust pieces are teamed with polka-dot accessories such as fine wool silk scarves and big, blanket-heavy tartan scarves, traditionally woven in Scotland. Warm, earthy ochre colours contrast with cool blues.

ETRO

A call back to nature echoes Etro’s roots with its latest Fall-Winter’16 launch that features a selection of supremely crafted cashmeres, fuzzy mohair wools, glowing jacquards and silky wools. Without a tie in sight, classic pieces are shaken up with jacket trims appearing subtly tattered and leaf patterns gently printed over plaids. Pattern building is evident in this new look with traces of shaggy jacquard coats or cashmere wool jackets paired with dandy shades of purple, polenta or green suede pants. Mismatched materials lining up against one another complete the look and helps mirror the essence of nature “wherein lies a universe of possibilitiy and the opportunity to disconnect from the world at large and escape into the unknown”.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

A pair of Andy Wahol paint-splattered, Ferragamo Oxfords heralded the starting point for creative director, Massimilano Giornetti and this season’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection. The Oxford shoes’ mix of artistic splashes of paint with the classic styling transforms the whole outfit, oozing character, emotion and depth. The mismatching and clashes are offset by sharply tailored single and double-breasted suits. The winter Macintosh is presented here in pure white, a statement piece in itself. The collection was designed to be assembled, deconstructed and personalized according to each man’s individual identity, lifestyle, needs and desire celebrating nuance as a statement of freedom from the increasingly homogenous world in which we live.

GIEVES & HAWKES

Gieves & Hawkes go casual this season with their latest pieces that are ideal for country house parties or exploring the streets of a foreign city. The foliate country jacquard in bronze comes in a relaxed double-breasted jacket worn with a cashmere/silk polo neck and black wool dress pants that chracterises the signature look in this season’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection. Reflecting the adventurous spirit that lies within the brand, the oversized cable-knit scarf worn with tailored style clothing further enhances the sporty country look that defines the collection. The richly textured knits in basket weave and twist-cable are a layering staple and makes an appearance in this collection worn under tailored sports coats.

HERMÉS

It’s all about the detailing and popping of colours this season with the new collection featuring creative pieces which has got detailing to a T. The khaki glazed calfskin parka jacket thrown on top of the grey flannel cashmere V-neck pullover and paired with a raspberry coloured narrow straight trousers echoes colour vibrations on all levels.l In addition the Etrivière belt in red H Hunter cow skin helps break down the colour blocking.

LANVIN

To mark his 10 years as the men’s wear director at Lanvin, Lucas Ossendrijver has chosen to go beyond a mere retrospective and look to the very heart of his craft. With visibly heavy stitches, this collection is all about the detailing. From the delicate thread that hangs from one side of the sleeve, to the structure of a long scarf with a fringe formed by hanging ribbons he formulates the notion of surprise and highlights the central idea of craftsmanship, symbolically incorporating the tools of the trade itself with pendants and key rings. This wealth of detail also reflects a true sensuality, a kind of nonchalant and comfortable elegance, with generous volumes, wide trousers and fine constructions of merino wool.

MICHAEL KORS

This Fall Winter 2016/17 collection is all about embracing change and facing challenges head-on, clearly evident from the collection is Michael Kors’ focus on performance wear this fall. From the city to the slopes, the relaxed unstructured suiting is made for comfort above all else. This collection is perfect for people who enjoy different outfits for every occasion in their life, after all who doesn’t want to look ultra chic every minute? You will feel bundled up yet still practical with fabrics such as high performance wools in a mix of neutral greys, brown and black. Aimed to suit the individual that lives by the “straight” luxurious 24/7 lifestyle. Streamlined leather accessories include backpacks and duffels paired with the infamous city hiking boot.

PAUL SMITH

For Autumn/Winter 2016, Paul Smith embraces the past exploring some of his signature designs with stripes, prints and unique tailoring. Embracing the free spirit of the late-60s and early-70s, stripes are woven into cashmere knitwear. Getting creative with dinosaur prints appearing on blue flowing shirts peeping from underneath digitally-printed peaches on bomber jackets is a clear reference to Paul’s pioneering use of photo-printing techniques. The focus this year is on outerwear, with bold long stripes symbolising Paul’s longstanding passion with cycling where shades of green and peach are reminiscent of the vividly coloured knitted jerseys worn by his sporting heroes.

ROBERTO CAVALLI

Peter Dundas is Cavalli’s new Creative Director who channels a different direction for Roberto Cavalli this season playfully mixing casual and tailored elements, juxtaposing the precious and the practical for the twenty-first century gentleman. Infused with elements of the late sixties and early seventies, the Fall/Winter 2016 Cavalli man is presented as a rock icon and his masculinity made ever more potent by the touches of femininity in his attire. Cavalli’s big cat prints are once more in abundance, joined by trompe-l’oeil kimono embroideries and foulard silks cut into fluid lounging pyjama styles. The bitter chocolate and rust, dusty rose, sepia and tobacco colours are embedded with jewel tones: amethyst, emerald and ruby and help set a Bohemian mood.

TRUSSARDI

This season Trussardi gathers musicians and rockers and presents a collection with an all-pervasive ’70s rock mood – a carefree, snarling, rebellious mood. The collection appears pulled together from disparate, everyday items – corduroy and tweed jackets; silk shirts with matching ties; a subdued palette of blues, greys, and earthenware tones of sepia and terracotta. While fast and loose it still retains an aspirational vibe, albeit for men who aspire to look cool. Collection highlights include a scarlet leather jacket with bonded wool interior and a lush clay-red shearing with an intarsia of oversize lumberjack check in calf. Luxurious and undeniably cool this collection is ideal for anyone who wishes to make a lasting impression.

VALENTINO

Undertaking an aesthetic exploration of empirical authenticity in their A/W 2016 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s new pieces blend an outdoor spirit with edgy, punk vibes, with Pacific Northwest traces, tribal embellishments as well as beat and bohemian exoticism. Hypnotic geometric Navaho patterns spread over jackets; checks multiply over tailored suits while studs embellish heavy winter outerwear. The recurring comparison between open nature and free elements emerges on waxed camping jackets and slim overcoats with camouflage patterns. Jackets, coats and overcoats are redefined through exquisite workmanship that combines a healthy respect for tradition and the freedom of reinterpreting it.

VERSACE

Welcome to the universe of Versace, where a wardrobe from the celestial heavens has been created for this A/W 2016. Fibre optic tracksuits are the futuristic trend that people are screaming for this season, whether its merino wool zip-ups with a zigzag at the neck or drawstring track pants enriched with embellishments. An iconic Versace astrological print is reworked and revitalized, while a star map Medusa print has been created and looks perfect on white jeans. Other highlights include tech cycling boots, which look like they might propel you into the future. Donatella Versace explains, the collection is about the “perfect representation of the ambitious man that is real, bold and totally connected with the future.”

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

In an era where anything goes, Stefano Pilati tones things down with his latest Fall Winter 2016/17 collection by making the act of embellishment a “classic”. An exceptional wardrobe ruled by fearless style with hints of masculinity fused into the lushness of the fabrics that echoes “Haute Couture” incorporating depths of subtlety in an effortless and oh so “Zegna-way”. Each piece of clothing is heavily embellished with three dimensional hand embroideries sourced only from the finest Italian craftsfolk including the woven patchwork of jacquard patterns that stems from the super fine Lanificio Zegna wools. A truly authentic couture collection, where the clothes themselves deliver the essence of an intuitive elegance unregulated in its formality.