INN Style: Because fashion is a lifestyle, luxury brands are increasingly getting into the hotel game

Luxury shoppers and travellers today are craving experiences that go beyond simple products and services. Taking strategic steps outside their boutiques, fashion brands have found the perfect combination to satisfy both their growth and customer demand by projecting a whole lifestyle. The smartest among the fashion-forward companies have already entered the hotel industry, including Armani and Versace; the Italian duo recently expanded their portfolios by opening properties in Dubai and Macau respectively. French luxury goods behemoth, LVMH, which owns Louis Vuitton, has also announced its ambitions in the hospitality industry. In fact, company CEO Michael Burke revealed that Louis Vuitton’s Paris headquarters will be converted into a hotel and shopping centre.

The overlapping between fashion and hospitality is far from uncharted territory, but travelling comfortably forward, this year’s crop of entrants seems particularly well-positioned to not only succeed but potentially scale up. Although specifics of the Louis Vuitton hotel project have not yet been disclosed, LVMH is no newbie to the world of upscale hospitality. The conglomerate’s holdings include: the upscale travel company Belmond, which manages more than 30 hotels; the luxury jewellery, accessory and hotel brand Bulgari; and the Cheval Blanc luxury hotel chain as well as the famed winery.

Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, a division of Bulgari established in 2001 thanks to a partnership with Marriott International, has a strong presence in the market. Indeed, it may be the fashion world’s most successful hotel venture to date. The brand currently has outposts in Milan, London, Dubai, Bali, Beijing, Shanghai, Paris, Moscow and Tokyo, with Rome to open this month and Miami, the Maldives and Los Angeles in the pipeline.

Executive Vice-President of Bulgari Hotels & Resorts Silvio Ursini highlights that Bulgari’s long-established association with beauty, exclusivity and glitz contributes to the hotel concept’s longevity. “As a luxury brand, we know how to pamper and build a true relationship with our customers,” he says, adding that business across the portfolio has remained robust in recent years, thanks to increased demand for “ultraluxe experiences”.

The Bulgari properties also function as great showrooms for the company’s jewellery and accessories. Each has a few Bulgari items on show in the lobby, and some, like the ones in Shanghai, Dubai, and Paris, also include a retail store. “A hotel guest dedicates at least one or two days, if not more, to their stay and has more time to observe and choose a piece,” notes Ursini.

Indulgent Elegance

Attention to the smallest details and touches is what fashion is all about. Luxury products offer a certain level of excellence, from the tortoiseshell buttons that adorn our winter coats to the finely built bags we can’t live without. This kind of indulgent elegance, which includes chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royces, breathtaking views and culinary creativity, is what draws tourists every year to the top fashion designer hotels in the world, especially at a time when luxury becomes more accessible and diverse. Needless to say, stays at popular traditional hotel chains won’t feel the same once you experience the high-end designer holiday sensation.

These expansion approaches are key to the success of luxury brands. The upscale hotel experience allows them to be closer to their target segment, while the cache of owning five-star properties around the world elevates their brand even further.

Beyond Haute Couture

Two decades after the first luxury fashion brand ventured into luxury hospitality – with Palazzo Versace on the Gold Coast of Australia claiming that landmark breakthrough in 2000 – the past few years have also demonstrated that haute couture isn’t the only door into hotels. High-profile companies in the likes of publishing and furniture design have made their own excursions into the hotel industry, frequently with the intention of bringing their brand equity and aesthetics with them.

Swiss watch company Audemars Piguet has been luring tourists to its hometown of Le Brassus in the country’s Vallée de Joux region. The company debuted Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet in the summer of 2020, then opened the 50-room Hôtel des Horlogers next door two years later – the name translates literally as “the watchmakers’ hotel”.

In collaboration with luxury management company Marugal, footwear icon Christian Louboutin opened a boutique hotel and restaurant this spring. A long-time favourite vacation spot for the designer, the town of Melides on Portugal’s Alentejo coast is home to the 13-key Hotel Vermelho.

France’s fashion publishing giant, Elle, made waves in spring 2022 with the announcement of two hospitality brands. The 25-room Maison Elle collection premiered in Paris’s 17th Arrondissement recently. Its resort division, Elle Hotel, is scheduled to launch this summer with a beach property in Jalisco, Mexico.

La Maison Fragonard, created in Arles by Agnès and Françoise Costa, scions of the century-old perfume business, and Paris-based design company Ateliers Saint-Lazare, added a little extra fragrance to Provence last summer. Its six rooms are above a ground-floor boutique selling clothing, houseware and perfume including the newest Fragonard release, Belle d’Arles.

Lastly, leading US luxury home brand RH has expanded into hospitality via the opening of the RH Guesthouse in New York City. The 1887 structure, a cosy distance from RH’s Meatpacking District showroom, has nine rooms and suites decorated in Italian travertine and white oak, as well as a restaurant and a basement caviar bar. Its top attraction – literally – though is a huge draw in New York: a rooftop pool.

From Hotel to Retail

Back here at home, the luxury brand and hospitality collaboration trend continues as Rosewood owner and Chief Executive Sonia Cheng plans to transform the luxury hotel and resort Text: Joseff Musa group into a fully-fledged lifestyle brand within three to five years. “[This new direction is] about the attitude we’re seeing and what our guests are interested in, and being able to engage with them,” says Joanna Gunn, Chief Brand Officer of Rosewood Hotel Group. Before joining the company in May 2020 after two decades in the luxury retail sector, her most recent post was at Hong Kong’s iconic department store, Lane Crawford.

Brand-hotel partnerships will only grow in importance as the latter place more emphasis on their role as “staycation” destinations. Beyond international travel, luxury hotels have become places of entertainment outside of the home. How sweet it is to be living the suite life!

The Art of Perfumery: A Guide to the Different Types of Scents

The importance of wearing perfumes goes beyond just smelling good. Wearing perfumes can boost confidence, improve mood, and even have an impact on our overall well-being. Choosing the perfect perfume can be a daunting task. With so many different scents available, it can be overwhelming to know where to start. However, understanding the different types of scents can help you make an informed decision and choose a perfume that suits your personality and style. In this article, we will explore the various types of scents and their unique properties, so you can make an informed decision and find the perfect perfume for you.

Floral Scents

The most common and easily recognisable of all the fragrance types is the floral scents. As the name suggests, these scents get their essence from flowers like roses, jasmine, lavender, peonies and more. They have a calming and soothing effect on them, thus often being the first choice for aromatherapy. For the same reason, floral scents are also found in perfumes, candles and air fresheners.

The Best Floral Perfumes

Dioriviera is an Eau de Parfum with a long-lasting note of roses in combination with the sweet smell of fig.

Creed Spring Floral has strong floral characteristics because of the key ingredients like jasmine and white flowers inside the fancy pink bottle.

Citrus Scents

Derived from the essence of citrus fruits such as oranges, bergamot, lemons, and grapefruits, citrus scents have a refreshing and energetic feel to them. They are also known for their uplifting and invigorating properties thus making them popular choices for morning routines. As this scent family evokes a sense of freshness, it is often associated with the summer season.

The Best Citrus Perfumes

Acqua di Parma’s Arancia La Spugnatura has Vanilla Orange, lemons and mandarins as its starring ingredients which give the perfume its zesty and citrusy smell.

Gucci’s The Alchemist Garden 1921 is another luxurious perfume which has its citrus ingredient, citron lemon, on the top note thereby allowing you to smell it in the first spray.

Woody Scents

Woody scents are extracted from the essence of trees such as sandalwood, cedarwood, and pine. They are known for their grounding and calming properties, making them desirable choices for meditation and relaxation. Due to their strong connection with nature, woody scents easily attract outdoorsy people who love hiking, camping and other outdoor activities.

The Best Woody Perfumes

Le Labo Santal 33 was created to replicate the smell of a campfire, for which the brand included extracts from Australian sandalwood and cedarwood to bring out a woody fragrance.

Bleu de Chanel is appreciated by connoisseurs for its pleasant and perfumy woody notes that come from the New Caledonian sandalwood extracts found in them.

Spicy Scents

Spicy scents are derived from the essence of spices such as cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg. They are known for their warming and alleviating properties, making them popular choices for the fall and winter seasons.

The Best Spicy Perfumes

Aesop Gloam is concentrated with essences from spices such as pink pepper, cardamom, saffron and more that strongly appeal to your olfactory senses.

Imagine the sweet aromas that you smell in a coffee shop, that is mildly what Yves Saint Laurent’s Black Opium smells like with the sparkling black bottle holding essences of the coffee accord, pink pepper and more that give it its spicy fragrance.

Aquatic Scents

Aquatic scents mimic the aroma of the ocean and sea breeze. They essentially remind you of relaxing at a seashore or going on a cruise trip. They are known for their fresh and clean properties, making them popular choices for the summer seasons.

The Best Aquatic Perfumes

Jo Malone London Wood Sage & Sea Salt is characterised as a standout aquatic perfume for invoking the refreshing smell of the sea.

Hermès Eau des Merveilles Bleue is rejuvenating as it smells like the ocean with this eau de toilette possessing the fragrances of the salty pebbles that you find on the seashore.

Jewel of the World: Can the newly crowned most populous country finally become a global superpower?

According to the UN, the teeming, colourful expanse of India is now home to more people than any other country on Earth. Could this herald its breakthrough as a top-tier nation with global clout?

“I do feel a sense of pride because of the fact that India is the most populated country, but I cannot explain why,” says Gia Karamchandani, an Indian student at the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology. “I think it is because it makes me feel like there are many people that I can connect to on a cultural level.”

India’s vast mass of people of different ethnicities and religions has long been a source of strength as well as a potential weakness. During the time when India was known as the ‘Jewel in the Crown’ of the British Empire, its pool of manpower was considered essential to help run and police a global empire.

Superpower Revival

Some academics now view India during that time as an Asian superpower within the structures of the British Empire, so perhaps talk of the country now becoming a superpower is just a return to the status quo. Go back even further, circa 1700, and it was certainly an economic might, accounting for a fifth of the global economy.

“I wish India could return to its former glory,” says Aditi Jhaveri, Senior Lecturer at the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology. “Despite being one of the oldest civilisations in the world, we haven’t been able to convey how modern, cultured, developed and scientifically and economically advanced we were before colonisation.”

And yet, India’s modern relationship with Britain is revealing. People of Indian ethnicity number about 1.4 million in the UK and are high achievers with some of the greatest levels of education and proportion of professionals. The ascent of Indian-origin Rishi Sunak to the British premiership was met with glee in India and by Indians the world over. “It also stoked the nationalistic sentiments of many Indians who really want to believe that the future can be ours,” says Jhaveri.

In deference to diplomatic niceties between the UK and India, the magnificent Koh-i-Noor diamond, in British hands since 1849 when the 10-year-old Maharajah of Punjab was compelled to hand it over to Queen Victoria, remained firmly locked in the Tower of London during last month’s coronation of Charles III. Recent speculation suggests that the Indian government is planning to campaign for the repatriation of the diamond and other artefacts.

Economic Drive Britain’s largest carmaker, Jaguar Land Rover, has flourished under the benevolent ownership of Tata, India’s largest conglomerate. This company has come a long way from its initial beginnings as a textile-trading business in 1868 and has diversified into many sectors of the Indian and global economy.

“Tata existed even when I was a child,” says Jhaveri. “Since then, there should have been many more Tata-like companies for India to showcase. But unfortunately, for a country its size, India does not have enough Tatas.”

She believes India’s age-old (and much-discussed) problem of economic resources being misallocated is to blame: “Part of the problem is the very high level of corruption in the politicoeconomic sphere.”

India overtook the UK to become the fifth largest world economy in 2022, so now, having become the most populous nation, calls are growing for the country to wield its influence on a wider scale; this includes gaining a permanent seat on the UN Security Council. Geopolitics, however, suggests this goal will not be straightforward.

India can already claim superpower status in some areas. Its domestic cricket contest is now the most lucrative in the world after America’s National Football League; its film industry churns out more productions than Hollywood; and the sprawling Indian diaspora fills powerful commercial positions.

“Indians living abroad are go-getters who have done very well in different sectors around the world,” says Jhaveri. “Their contribution to the IT sector, medicine, literature and education is most notable.”

Youthful vigour

Some academics heap praise on India for the way it has managed the decline in birth rate through population policies. A virtuous path has led to a growing workforce and declining fertility, coupled with rising incomes and improved access to healthcare. Smaller families have more to spend on consumption, a so-called ‘demographic dividend’.

Indian economist Shruti Rajagopalan believes the fast rate of growth in the Indian economy and the rich pool of young talent – 47% of Indians are below the age of 25 – places the country in a hugely favourable position that will reap immense benefits. “This generation of young Indians will be the largest consumer and labour source in the knowledge and network goods economy,” she notes. “Indians will be the largest pool of global talent.”

High-tech achievers

India’s growth story since its liberalisation policies of the early 1990s is unique in the sense that it has not been based on the export of labour-intensive manufactured products. Its leading export sector is technological services, with India accounting for 15% of global IT services spending in 2021 according to The Economist.

But one downside is that this area generates few jobs compared to other sectors. According to Ashoka Mody, a Visiting Professor of International Economic Policy at Princeton University, India possesses vast pools of unproductive labour and much of India’s growth in the financial and property sector has failed to create enough jobs.

“India has to continue focusing its efforts on job creation, especially for people with university degrees who struggle to find stable employment,” says Jhaveri.

India faces other substantial challenges. Parts of the country may soon become unliveable because of climate change, and climate migration could be an issue of the future. There remain marked differences in the performance of different states across India and, even more worrying, religious and ethnic tensions can spill over into conflict. In just one example of this, ethnic violence left more than 55 people dead in the north-eastern state of Manipur last month.

States vs The Nation

Few large developing economies have had smooth, trouble-free growth stories – so India is no exception here. But some Indian states have ambitious goals. In a recent interview with India Today, Tamil Nadu chief minister M.K. Stalin said he wanted to treble his economy to trillion-dollar levels by 2030, an aspiration backed up by a raft of investment in power plants, electronics, auto components, information technology and pharmaceuticals. He is proud of the performance of his state and had some harsh words to say about the central government for not respecting the interests of individual states.

In any functioning democracy, tensions will often arise between central and devolved levels of power. Take education – the Indian Institutes of Management produces some of the best business graduates in the world and many top students now prefer to study in India. However, some academics believe dictates of the central government are preventing these institutions from competing with leading Western universities by failing to give them full autonomy and freedom.

Force of the Future

Underscoring the dynamism of India’s economy, the country is home to well over 100 “unicorn” companies – classed as privately held start-up businesses valued at over US$1 billion – a total only surpassed by the US and China. In luxury fashion, Indian designers are now featuring at Paris Haute Couture Week. The BBC recently reported the “premiumisation” of the Indian economy – whereby wealthier consumers move towards more expensive products – in such sectors as luxury cars and smartphones, although the report also noted ongoing inequalities.

“India has a long way to go before it can catch up with China,” concludes Jhaveri. “But this is not to say that it cannot in the future, especially if we can focus on eradicating of poverty, tackling illiteracy, bridging the gender divide, and stop obsessing about religion. There is a lot that India has to offer that most people don’t know about. India business communities are intelligent and enterprising but the government needs to reward the more ethical businesses that demonstrate social responsibility with many more opportunities that are currently available,”

As Manny As Possible: More than just another pretty face, Manny Jacinto isn’t silent on how Hollywood should change

Manny Jacinto is in a good place and it has only got better. The Filipino-Canadian actor’s breakout role in the Golden Globe-nominated hit show, The Good Place, drew viewers, especially Southeast Asians, to his effortless charisma and comedic prowess; he played a DJ and dancer who was initially mistaken to be a Taiwanese Buddhist monk observing a vow of silence as he happened to be wearing a barong-inspired outfit. When he did speak and the credits rolled at the end of the first season (2016-17), fans of the show were proven right – his performance had caught the eye of the critics, gaining favourable reviews. His portrayal of a “lovable doofus” from Florida goes against the stereotypes of how Asian men are often portrayed in Hollywood.

The show’s success allowed him more room for role experimentation. Last year, he joined the stellar cast led by Tom Cruise in Top Gun: Maverick – though disappointingly, in another silent performance, his lines were cut – and was among the leads in the romantic comedy, I Want You Back. He also cinched his next TV gig with no less than Nicole Kidman and Melissa McCarthy in the Hulu miniseries, Nine Perfect Strangers, an adaptation by David E. Kelley of Liane Moriarty’s 2018 novel of the same name.

PacMan revival?

Born in the Philippines and raised in Vancouver, Jacinto had a few small roles in film and TV before landing his biggest breaks. He happened to appear in a 2013 episode, titled “Pac-Man Fever”, of the long-running dark fantasy-drama Supernatural, and the PacMan adjacencies stirred instant connections to legendary Filipino international boxing icon Manny Pacquiao, not least because of the name similarity.

Making a name in Hollywood is, of course, a feat for our Manny, not just as a Filipino but as an Asian actor. As with any success, it took a lot of hard work, determination and patience. Having had the privilege of working alongside some of the industry’s biggest names, he is sure of one thing: he doesn’t want to get too comfortable.

Engineering a break

Life had a different path for Manny Jacinto before making it to the city of stars. Believe it or not, he was once a practising civil engineer. The University of British Columbia graduate was supposed to become a pharmacist, but having failed chemistry, he took another route – towards his dad, actually, thinking if his father could be an engineer, then why couldn’t he? But having accomplished that, he discovered his dancing feet.

“There were lots of risks or jumps but a lot of it came through a series of steps because if you told me eight years ago that I would be an actor, I would laugh. I wouldn’t believe you. It’s crazy, Filipinos and Asians performing onscreen. Dance and music were things I really resonated with so I was like, hey, I think that’s super cool, maybe let’s try it out.”

He took a dance class in downtown Vancouver and fell in love with performing. From dancing, he went on to acting and from there, it snowballed. Once this spark had activated his “acting bug”, he realised that he could express himself through different methods – from voice projection to gesticulation – and the floodgates to his career opened.

“I had a civil engineering degree in my back pocket so I knew that if things didn’t pan out, I could always go to engineering. I also have incredibly supportive parents who never frowned upon or hindered my need to explore the creative arts,” he shares.

Filipino etiquette

Filipinos, as many would and could attest, put a lot of emphasis and importance on work ethic, and for Jacinto, this is something that he has in his genetic makeup. He stresses that it was passed on to him by his parents, especially his father, who always finds a way to make things work and who has sacrificed everything for the family.

“That’s something I would love to tie into the script I’m writing,” he says, adding: “Filipinos have this general sense of optimism and sense of ease. I remember going back to the Philippines when I was younger, and there was just so much joy being around family.”

Despite growing up in Canada, the boyish-looking star identifies himself as a Filipino, with habits unique to the culture, such as the simple preference “to eat with a spoon and a fork”.

When the shoe fits

As for his physical attributes, Jacinto’s stunning looks, particularly his cheekbones and jaw, have also sparked rhapsodic gushing in The New York Times. When complimented on his supermodel jawline, he notes: “It’s very flattering, but the reaction usually involves me blushing and sweating in my palms.”

Often seen dressed down in denim jeans and t-shirts, the actor is quick to point out that shoes play an important role in his craft. “I have too many different shoes. I apply this to acting as well like I put on shoes to fit different characters,” he explains. “So, if I need to be Jason Mendoza [in The Good Place] – someone who moves a lot and is light on his feet – I wear sneakers, like a pair of Jordan’s or something like that.

“Yao of Nine Perfect Strangers is more of a minimalist so he will probably wear a Birkenstock. Logan from I Want You Back is more of a hipster, so he’ll probably be in vintage boots. Shoes help me get more grounded with the characters.”

More and/or Less

Like many other Asian talents currently making waves in the international mainstream media, Jacinto hopes to see more diverse faces on screen in the future – and not just in roles that are sidekicks, but those that occupy the lead spots. He also urges Hollywood to be more of a force for change and creativity: “I want to see more diverse stories. This isn’t a revelation, but a lot of things are being recycled or rebooted. There’s this fear for change or fear to do something different. I’d like to see less repetition and see more originality in the stories we tell.”

Know Your Matcha – 5 Fascinating Facts About Matcha

With more than 7 million posts about matcha on Instagram, matcha is certainly one of the most popular superfoods which has often been raved about by nutritionists for its many health benefits. Its unique taste allows it to be enjoyed in the form of beverages and desserts. Despite its popularity and the large population of people who like matcha-flavoured edibles, few people have a basic knowledge of the vibrant green powder. So, here are five interesting facts to educate yourself about matcha.

Matcha’s history goes back to the 7th century

Introduced during the Tang dynasty in China, green tea leaves were boiled and turned into bricks which were convenient to store and transport. These blocks were later powdered and consumed with water and salt. But it was only after the 10th century, this form of tea, or as we call it matcha today, started gaining worldwide popularity with a Japanese Buddhist monk named Eisai, who lived in China to learn about Zen Buddhism, introducing the tea to Japan. He sowed green tea seeds in the Kyoto region thus starting a new cultivation there.

Differences between green tea and matcha stem from the cultivation

Both green tea and matcha are harvested from the tea plant which is scientifically known as the Camellia sinensis plant. However, the process by which matcha is harvested is different from the methods used to grow green tea. For starters, in order to produce the matcha, the tea plant is grown in a spot with no sunlight during the last few weeks. The leaves are then dried as quickly as possible ensuring that they don’t turn brown by coming in contact with oxygen. Following this, its veins and stems are removed so that the leaves can be ground into the powdered form which is the matcha powder.

Matcha is healthier than green tea

Given that when people drink matcha tea, they are consuming the tea leaves which were pulverised, matcha tends to have more health benefits than green tea which only consists of the essence from the tea leaves. Besides, matcha gets its name as a superfood because of its numerous advantages to one’s health. To list a few: it is rich in antioxidants; it is good for the heart; it acts as a catalyst for weight loss; and it prevents cancer.

Matcha keeps you awake for a longer period of time

The caffeine content in matcha can range anywhere between 20 – 45 milligrams in one gram of matcha powder and the high-quality ones which are often referred to as ceremonial grade matcha will have about 34 milligrams of caffeine. Despite containing lesser caffeine than coffee, matcha tends to keep you alert for a longer period of time in comparison to drinking a cup of coffee. This is because matcha contains a type of amino acid which slows down the absorption of caffeine, thereby when a person drinks matcha, the caffeine in it is released gradually keeping you energised for a longer period, unlike coffee which gives you a quick spike in energy levels but also wears out quickly.

Matcha is a wonderful skincare ingredient

In addition to the benefits one can reap from drinking a cup of matcha tea, matcha is also a wonderful ingredient to include in your skincare. Today’s beauty market boasts a range of matcha-infused products like foaming cleansers, toners, face creams, masks and more. This is due to matcha’s antioxidant content which helps to fight acne and prevent ultraviolet rays from entering the skin. Matcha also increases collagen production which helps you achieve clear and supple skin.

Super Synagogue: UNESCO-winning Ohel Leah synagogue remains focal point of Jewish life

As Robert Dorfman stares at the foundation stone, dated May 1901, of the Ohel Leah Synagogue, he becomes a tad philosophical about the Jewish community in Hong Kong and the building itself. “In many ways, we as a community have mirrored the rise of Hong Kong, and this building has witnessed all the changes that have taken place around us,” says the Chairman of the Trustees of the Ohel Leah Synagogue Charity. The synagogue, which claimed a UNESCO cultural heritage prize following its 1998 restoration, recently celebrated its 120th anniversary.

The beautiful Edwardian Baroque building is now encircled and dwarfed by tall apartment complexes, a far cry from the days when three grandsons of David Sassoon, the patriarch of the Sassoon family, gifted the land in Robinson Road, Mid-levels, to the Jewish community of Hong Kong. The Sassoons had first opened a Hong Kong office in 1844, and the brothers requested that the synagogue be named after their mother, Leah. Speaking of the site today amid glorious spring sunshine, Dorfman says: “How nice we have the sanctuary, the garden, the greenery.”

Dorfman’s own family is of Russian descent with roots in Hong Kong going back more than 60 years. As we continue our tour of this immaculate and decorative place of worship, he talks proudly of the work of the Ohel Leah Synagogue Charity, which has done so much to preserve the building. “Making sure the building is well kept and that we always have a rabbi, a spiritual leader of the community, are among the highest priorities of our trust,” he says.

The synagogue has maintained its position as a focal point of the Jewish community since the early days when the Kadoorie family – who like the Sassoons had settled in Hong Kong via Baghdad, Bombay and Shanghai – funded the building of a Jewish Recreation Club on part of the grounds. The club served the social requirements of a burgeoning community, though it did not survive Japanese occupation during the Second World War; it was rebuilt in 1949, and later replaced by the extensive community centre that neighbours the synagogue today.

Smuggled Scrolls
Happily, Ohel Leah’s antique Torah scrolls were wartime survivors, smuggled out of the synagogue before it fell into Japanese hands. They were returned safely and are now stored in a small alcove behind a multicoloured curtain that was gifted to the synagogue about 15 years ago.

Erica Lyons, who chairs the Jewish Historical Society of Hong Kong, pulls the curtain to one side to reveal a line of ornate cases on a curved shelf running along the wall. Within the cases are handwritten parchment scrolls of the Torah, the first five books of the Hebrew Bible. Some scrolls originate from the 1860s; others are much newer, having been inked within the last decade. “In Jewish tradition, everyone is meant to complete the writing of a Torah scroll sometime in their life,” she says. “It takes more than a year for somebody that is very skilled. This is often done symbolically through a communal effort as was the case with one of the community’s scrolls that was rededicated in 2007.”

Before the pandemic, the synagogue would conduct many synagogue tours – sometimes more than once a day – for schools, universities, church groups and even tourists who had just stepped off a cruise ship. “It is the only historic synagogue in Greater China that is still in use for its intended purpose,” she notes.

Heated Debate
It was touch and go at one point whether the landmark building would be demolished. As a result of extensive construction work in the neighbourhood, the massive granite retaining wall between the property and the road became dangerously unstable. In the late 1980s, the Hong Kong government issued a notice to the trustees to secure the wall.

A heated debate arose within the Jewish community as the cost of repairing the wall and stabilising the building was extensive. Some thought redeveloping the whole site and building a new synagogue was the best solution, and acrimonious exchange spilled over into broader Hong Kong society.

A compromise was eventually reached with a developer; two residential towers were built, but the synagogue was saved. The new Jewish Community Centre (JCC) was built on the podium of the high-rise and opened in 1995. Facilities include a Jewish day school, a kosher supermarket and two restaurants, an indoor swimming pool, function rooms and offices. There is daily worship in the synagogue and vocational and social events are organised around synagogue life.

Living Heritage
Old and new coexist in harmony. A two-year conservation project to refresh the Grade 1 historic building began in 1996 and was overseen by the synagogue trustees. “[The restoration team from Australia] did everything in the style that it was originally done so that it was all uniform and wasn’t changed,” says Dorfman. Certain soothing pastel colours inside the synagogue were only revealed after the team scraped the walls. “Nobody living had remembered these colours, and it was decided that since those were the original colours, we should go back to them.”

The restoration also improved other features: air conditioning and new lighting were installed; the original bimah (elevated platform) from which the rabbi reads the Torah remained but was raised slightly to improve the acoustics; support beams and new tiered seating in the gallery were added. The heritage team helped restore or replace damaged glass and touched up and finished the woodwork. The restored building was named an Outstanding Project at the 2000 UNESCO Asia-Pacific Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation.

Flourishing Community
The Jewish community of Hong Kong started with traders who came in the 1850s and were predominately Sephardi (Jews with ancestry from Spain and Portugal) and Mizrachi (Jews with ancestry from the Middle East) ancestry. It is now estimated to be about 5,000 strong and spans a diverse group of some 30 nationalities. There are numerous places to worship in Hong Kong for the different denominations; the United Jewish Congregation, for example, holds services in one part of the JCC complex.

Lyons, who has lived in Hong Kong for more than 20 years and raised a family, believes the fact that the Jewish community in Hong Kong is relatively small and extremely welcoming allows someone to take up leadership roles that elsewhere would take years to achieve.

A can-do attitude has spawned many cultural activities set up by the Jewish community. For instance, from its beginnings in the auditorium at the JCC, the Hong Kong Jewish Film Festival has grown enormously and receives support from the consulates of the countries of films screened. The Hong Kong Holocaust and Tolerance Centre provides educational resources in local schools.

Reaching Out to Other Faiths
The Ohel Leah Synagogue plays a part in interfaith bonding. Dorfman recounts how during an event called ‘From Moses to Mohammad’, the imam spoke at the Jamia Mosque in nearby Shelley Street and then visited the synagogue and was shown around by the rabbi. “The rabbi and the imam are very good friends,” he says.

He marvels at the feeling of inclusiveness the synagogue helps to create, explaining how, during Covid, the rabbi did services via Zoom a few days before the Jewish New Year. Invitations were sent to all members of the community past and present. “I was stunned how many people who happen to live in London, New York, Israel, Australia or elsewhere came online and joined the call,” he says. “People still want to be connected and still want to be part of it. That is a great tribute.”

Rabbi Dr Asher C. Oser offered these words: “There is something magical about this sacred space, where it is situated and what it offers. Of course, we have daily services, which are the vital signs of any place of worship, but there is so much more than ‘just’ prayer that goes on over here.”

On the Wings of Luxury: Private jet-setting in elevated style is the hot ticket across a reopened world

Leaving or living on a private jet plane has revolutionised the way people travel, offering a luxurious, convenient and flexible alternative to commercial airlines. While it may seem expensive at first glance – and let’s be honest, flying on a private jet is really an over-the-top luxury – it can be cost-effective for certain types of trips and can save travellers time and hassle. With a range of aircraft to choose from, jet-setters can customise their travel experience to their needs and preferences, and with the top private-jet rental companies providing safe, secure service, peace of mind while soaring above the clouds is assured.

When international borders reopened, “revenge travel” emerged – a means to make up for lost holidays after the pandemic – and affluent leisure seekers took the trend quite literally to another level. After all, private jets are the closest thing possible to teleportation in the 21st century – allowing people to fly whenever and wherever they want in an environment tailored to their tastes. The question is, how do we make the right choices when it comes to boarding that private jet plane?

Sky is the limit
The extravagant portrayal of flying on a private jet in films and television shows is more fact than fiction nowadays. Private aviation, undeniably, delivers the ultimate in ease and elegance. The most frequently asked question by travellers thinking of making the step up to private-jet rental is how the onboard experience compares to commercial flights. The convenience it offers is certainly one of the most significant benefits. People can choose their departure time and destination, and they do not have to worry about connecting flights or layovers. Private jets can take off and land at smaller airports too, allowing closer access to one’s final destination.

Privacy, comfort and a personalised experience that cannot be found on commercial flights also tip the (now redundant) baggage scales in the favour of jet rental. It avoids long lines and security checks, allowing more time to relax and enjoy the trip – be it for business or pleasure. Isn’t that what travelling and taking a breather should be all about?

Private aviation truly redefines the way passengers travel. A fully equipped business suite provides those travelling for work with a comfortable conference room in the sky. There’s a dedicated private dining team, and many private flights offer a top-notch sommelier for wine pairings, as well as caviar tastings. Even pets get VIP treatment, with a menu created by leading veterinarians and comfortable travel suites and sleeping mats instead of the obligatory crate required on commercial flights. Extraordinary dining experiences combined with unique entertainment make every trip enjoyable and unforgettable.

A standout private aviation company is VistaJet – the first company to provide a fleet of Bombardier Global 7500 aircraft, providing customers with access to destinations across the globe with the world’s largest and longest-range business jet. With direct flights from Hong Kong to New York and on-the-go departures, it’s easy to set off anywhere, anytime, to participate in important conferences and industry events while enjoying a luxurious home-away-from-home experience.

Onboard for bright flights
The cost of renting a private jet varies depending on the type of aircraft, the distance travelled and the duration of the rental. The hourly rate for a private jet can range from about HK$20,000 to HK$100,000, with larger planes costing more. As a testament to the upscaled revenge-travel trend, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts has launched a series of new journeys on its Four Seasons Private Jet. Over the past few years, this five-star ‘air cruise’ has enjoyed an overwhelming response, sell-outs and extensive waitlists – a signal of considerable pent-up demand for travel.

“Now more than ever, guests are planning bucket-list trips to far corners of the world to make up for the lost time,” said Christian Clerc, President of Global Operations for Four Seasons, in 2021. “To meet this demand, we’ve introduced additional opportunities to explore new and remote destinations with legendary Four Seasons service in the sky.”

Luxury hotel companies have increasingly entered partnerships with private jet companies to ease travel to and between their properties as luxury travellers seek dream trips across multiple destinations.

(Read the full article in the May 2023 issue (pg: 132). Available on the Gafencu app on Android and Apple.)

Jewel Identity: Lab-grown gems vs properly-provenanced stones as the divide in the diamond market grows

Recent interest in the proliferation of Lab-Grown Diamonds (LGDs) factories in India has left many diamond lovers wondering whether they could one day oust the natural rocks from the jewellery market. These man-made beauties display the same physical, chemical and optical characteristics as diamonds found deep in the earth. Put simply, are they here to stay?

Surprisingly, synthetic diamonds have been sparkling among us for decades. There are two ways to make LGDs: one is High-Pressure High Temperature (HPHT), involving a seed placed within pure graphite carbon and exposed to temperatures of about 1500°C; another is Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD), which involves putting a seed in a sealed container filled with carbon-rich gas and heating to 800°C. HPHT diamonds have been around since the 1960s, but the real game changer, according to Roi Sheinfeld, Managing Partner of diamond manufacturer M&B Group, has been the more recent introduction of CVD-made LGDs. “This is a much more efficient and cost-friendly process. Also, the size of the reactor in the HPHD process is the size of a room, the CBD reactor is the size of a table,” he says.

Questions of quality
Of course, those interested in buying a diamond will naturally want to know whether the quality of LGDs can compare to those of natural diamonds. Sheinfeld affirms that, at the top of the scale, they are indistinguishable. “If you are taking a very high-quality growth and you are putting it next to a natural diamond, and both of them would be high-colour and high-clarity stones, the chance that me, as a professional diamond dealer and manufacturer, will notice if it is an LGD or a natural diamond is basically zero,” he says.

However, he suggests quality can vary from one factory to another and buyers will need to be careful. Trustworthy sources are essential when procuring diamonds.

He compared LGDs grown under professional and less expert hands: “There is a very wide spectrum of quality. I am not saying that the end product is not the same crystal or hardness level as a natural diamond. In terms of quality, usually, lowend growth you see the certificate will be F colour like a better quality LGD, but it will not be lucid as the better quality LGD diamond,” he says.

He then adds: ”A high-end growth of lab diamond will shine and sparkle exactly like a good quality natural diamond.”

Sheinfeld sees this embryonic industry from all angles as his company is heavily involved in both natural and LGDs. A big part of their business is rough diamond sourcing, polishing and manufacturing, including polishing very expensive and unique stones. In the LGD sector, they are one of the biggest contract holders with Diamond Foundry, a US-based factory that makes huge quantities of cultured diamonds.

Compare & contrast
M&B Group is soon to open a retail outlet in Hong Kong where discerning shoppers can compare the two types of diamonds in the same space. “It is going to be the first shop that combines natural and lab-grown diamonds in the same space together. You can see LGDs and natural diamonds together and compare and hear everything that we have to say and decide for yourself.”

Price differential
The million-dollar question is how the proliferation in the supply of LGDs is going to affect the pricing structure within the industry. Sheinfeld has noticed that some major clients who bought huge quantities of natural diamonds are now switching to LGDs for the less expensive section of the market.

“It is an amazing product; it opens a whole new market,” he says. “We have clients coming in and saying for the very small stone, like those in a tennis bracelet, we don’t want to spend money on a natural diamond because, at the end of the day, there is no value for those stones when they are already set in a tennis bracelet.”

According to Roi, a two-carat natural diamond that costs in a shop around US$30-32k will cost around US$4500-5000 for an LGD with the same specs. Fun jewellery items like tennis bracelets and eternity rings, once the stones are set within the jewellery, lose much of their resale value. “If we were to try to take all of the stones out, probably you are going to damage some of the stones, or you cannot resell those five points that you took out of the tennis bracelet. I think in this segment, a lot of the people that are buying natural would move to buy lab-grown.

He also notes that lower-grade natural diamonds usually come without certificates so this could be a further incentive to consider LGDs.

No resale value
One of the main issues concerning LGDs is whether they hold value. On this issue, Sheinfeld is unequivocal. “It is very important to say that for the LGD there is no resale value whatsoever,” he declares, adding that this is the main advantage and disadvantage between the two products, as natural diamonds do usually hold some resale value.

He does not think this will change in the foreseeable future either. “Basically, you have endless production of something; I do not think it will ever be an investment per se.”

Luxury arousal
Despite these considerations, the luxury sector has been dipping its toes into LGDs. Last year LVMH Luxury Ventures, an investment arm within French luxury conglomerate LVMH Group, announced they had joined a US$90 million investment round in Lusix, an Israeli LGD factory. Industry rumours suggest other big conglomerates are entering the field.

“You are going to see more and more high-end fashion conglomerates getting into the field for sure. It is definitely here to stay,” says Sheinfeld.

Man-made diamonds offer luxury houses certain advantages: “I think using LGDs gives better precision and better quality control for a big brand that wants to do a big line of jewellery. It is easier to do it with LGDs than with natural diamonds.”

According to Sheinfeld, this potentially could have two effects on market pricing: the LGDs will become accessible, but will also ramp up the prestige factor of certain lines made of natural diamonds as discerning consumers will understand the complexities of their manufacture.

“Investment-grade diamonds that are appreciating over time are usually very large and very well-cut fancy shapes of high colour and high clarity,” he says.

Profit or loss?
Naresh Jain, CEO of Belgium-based Sanket BV, who is involved in fine jewellery, wonders whether labgrown diamonds can be profitable. “As production is increasing, the price for LGDs is getting lower and lower,” he says. “The value of LGD stock is depreciating at the end of each year due to surplus goods. I wonder how it can be a profitable business or an investment.”

“LGDs will be like silver [jewellery] or freshwater pearls. You need big volumes to sustain [their production], and on the other hand, a long-term high turnover is not easy. Falling prices and lesser acceptance will be the main hurdles,” he says.

Jain suggests industry players are trying to keep one foot in the LGD market, but nevertheless have no real confidence in their future. Despite this, he is certain that man-made diamonds will have a bearing on the price of their earthly counterparts in the long run.

Everything You Should Know About Quiet Luxury – The Rules Of This Fashion Trend

Gwyneth Paltrow’s courtroom fashion during her recent eight-day trial or some super-wealthy men like Mark Zuckerberg and Simon Cowell who are mostly spotted wearing outfits that look super casual – people associate their fashion to high-end brands simply because it is them who are wearing it and as you guessed it, all their attires are branded.

The Meta owner’s choice of clothing for instance includes a simple-looking grey T-shirt which is actually a Brunello Cuccinelli estimated to be about HK$2500. The X-Factor judge’s laid-back white or black T-Shirts are Armani. Likewise, if it does not look obvious to the unfamiliar eyes, the wellness icon and Goop founder was decked in Celine, The Row, Prada, Ray-Bans, Foundrae, Gucci and other luxury brands during her appearances in the courtroom.

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These simple-yet-luxurious styles, which resemble the ‘money talks, wealth whispers’ phenomenon, are what is gaining traction in 2023 and are referred to as quiet luxury or as social media platforms have popularised it – old money aesthetics. So, what exactly is quiet luxury?

Quiet luxury is a fashion trend that focuses on dressing simply and sophisticatedly. It follows the minimalist approach while sticking to investment pieces usually falling under the colour palette like neutrals such as black, white, grey, beige, olive green, caramel and more that allow for endless possibilities of outfit combinations to wear. In other words, it does not boast monograms or logos that make it very apparent that they were purchased from a high-end brand.

Instead, quiet luxury prioritises the quality of the clothing and sticks to closet essentials that will be in vogue forever. The easiest example has to be something like a white T-shirt. Quiet luxury encourages you to buy one that is of great quality and that you can wear comfortably for many years to come without worrying about its wear and tear. Precisely, it is also a smart and sustainable way of shopping because by opting for clothes of better quality, you are not inclined to do an annual purchase of your basics. You are cutting down on fashion waste.

Another important rule of Quiet luxury is that the clothes are always very neat, ironed and well-tailored because if you agree or not, quiet luxury is definingly the fashion of the ultra-rich so the trend is also an extension of their lifestyle. These are people who are driven in their cars thus never having to worry about their shirts or blouse getting crinkled while taking public transport and the material itself is less prone to wrinkles. They also have their own personal tailors who will alter anything they buy to fit them perfectly. As a result, these people’s styles always look prim and proper and that is the aesthetic Quiet Luxury is going for.

Law of Collab: Brand collaborations evolve as collections of creative alliances necessary for any type of business

Brand collaborations are generally visionary alliances of inspiring creativity, but in one respect they are no-brainers – they are done because of their effectiveness to garner higher sales and reach a wider audience. The 2010s were the peak years of collaboration, but the phenomenon that began back in the early 2000s was initially just hype. Since then, it has been proven that two is really better than one by making the sole product or service more exclusive, and therefore the demand higher. Many of these items become rare collectables with a prestige value that increases as the years go by.

Collaborations also strengthen a brand’s reputation by supporting artists, charitable organisations and innovations. Essentially, modern brands must be relatable and accessible, savvy social communicators, and the centre of a community of creatives, artists, muses and friends – and true enough, no one does it alone.

With the younger spending groups becoming smarter with their purchases, luxury brands in particular have had to make their products more memorable by creating unusual visuals, packaging and taste associations. As there are no set guidelines for how companies and other partners should collaborate, the success of the initiative depends on ingenuity. But in the era of serial collaboration, how does one stand out?

Long-Term Benefits

Collaborations between brands are the most common phenomenon. Such action may involve working with a partner brand on a joint product line, collaborating to provide a service package or creating products that perfectly match each other. Collaboration at the brand level often means reaching a wider audience. As a rule, the audience of such ‘one-off’ campaigns can exceed the audience of both brands together and bring unique value to clients.

One perfect example is the launch of the first Dior Men collection by Kim Jones. It generated a lot of excitement, not only for its fusion of workwear and couture trends but also for the roster of well-known designers Jones gathered under the Dior brand. Yoon Ahn, the co-founder of Ambush, was appointed head of jewellery for Dior Men while custom buckles were created by Matthew Williams, the independent mastermind behind Alyx, for Jones’s first two collections. In this way, Jones developed a community of creatives that he could continue to collaborate with for the foreseeable future rather than promoting these alliances as typical collabs – or worse, hiring Yoon and Williams without giving them credit.

Icons x Newbies

The most traditional choice of collaboration is a business enterprise working with an artist. This partnership gives the artist creative licence so that the finished product is an original work of art rather than a well-completed design task. By celebrating both the old and the young, the established and the rising star, products are raised to a new artistic level.

With limited resources and access, emerging fashion designers have a difficult time breaking into the industry. Some major brands have formed beneficial alliances with up-and-coming acquired a measure of rejuvenation or street cred.

Case in point: Burberry. Although he finally changed both, Riccardo Tisci’s first objective upon joining Burberry in 2018 was neither to revamp the logo nor reimagine the runway presentation. He announced that he would be working with Vivienne Westwood and made news when a legacy brand and an anti-establishment designer clashed culturally. Truly, Tisci was creating room in the battle for the novelty to honour a fashion icon.

A similar strategy was used by Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton in the same year when he commissioned Vogue legend Grace Coddington to create a line of accessories that were based on their pets. By working with Coddington, Ghesquière demonstrated that fashion can be more than a business – he also solidified the significance of her capacity to influence fashion from behind the scenes. Are we primarily talking about reputational and PR benefits here? Maybe. Is it effective? Definitely.

(Text: Joseff Musa)

Read the full article in the April 2023 issue (pg: 120). Available on the Gafencu app on Android and Apple.