Shades of Pascal: Painting a portrait of Pedro Pascal’s art-centric life and mounting that picture into one small frame.

After years of obscurity, Pedro Pascal’s recent breakthrough roles have added a line to the ‘life begins at 40’ tally. Fame is now rushing to the 48-year-old thespian who has drifted away from being “he’s the guy from” to a bona fide Hollywood name. Long-overdue recognition has come from his recent hit TV series, The Last of Us, as well as The Mandalorian – where he was a constant presence but his face was rarely seen – and the game-changing Game of Thrones. Countless trending social-media memes and flattering photos gush praise for his charisma. All to his credit; not a lot of people get to be in their 40s and have their lives change workwise, especially in show business. So what really makes Pedro Pascal tick?

American Dream Reversal
“The smallest of opportunities kept me going,” says the actor of making ends meet with TV work and his not inconsiderable stage presence. Now that he has the recognition he has long deserved, he is not about to waste his chance in the limelight. Born José Pedro Balmaceda Pascal in Santiago, Chile, and raised in San Antonio and Orange County, California, he is a self-confessed movie buff which did little to help his social life. His parents, both from the medical field, fled Chile in the 1970s during the military junta and worked out a life of comfort in the US.

However, when his father became embroiled in an Orange County fertility clinic controversy that made national headlines, his comfortable upbringing was upended. While he was studying at the New York University Tisch School of the Arts, his parents and two younger siblings returned to Chile. Soon afterwards, his mother took her own life.

Having to fend for himself, young Pedro pursued acting work while sharing an apartment with his sister in Manhattan. He secured plentiful theatre assignments and a few TV roles, including one-offs on the likes of Buffy the Vampire Slayer and Touched by an Angel. He had it rough and money was obviously tight, amounting to earnings of only about US$515 (HK$4,043) a week.

Also Read: Game of Thrones meets haute couture with Delvaux’s new collection

Politically Compassionate
In the age of wokeness, producers from that time would now be called out for typecasting actors for a role – sex, race and age-wise – but not Pedro. He was desperate to be typecasted just so he could get a job. He played a series of masculine gay men and vaguely ethnic characters. But breakout roles, both onstage and on television, proved elusive, and there were plenty of times when he was ready to quit.

Pascal also has a glowing reputation as an outspoken ally of the LGBTQ community. His supports his sister Lux, a transwoman, and the Instagram fiasco with his former Mandalorian co-star Gina Carano – whose right-wing views are contrary to his own – served to highlight what a true ally he is; he called out Carano for publicly mocking the preferred pronouns concept.

Just recently his on-screen daughter-like figure, Last of Us co-star, Bella Ramsey who identifies as non-binary, has testified that they share many conversations around gender – not necessarily always deep, but also funny and honest about the whole spectrum.

In an interview about his personal values, he comes across as refreshingly grounded, saying: “My entire heart is set on the marginalised underdog. It’s not a choice. The truth is that I don’t think I do nearly enough. I’m, like, a LIB-ER-AL, but there are contradictions there as well because we live capitalistically. I guess we carry the weight of that shame?”

(Text: Joseff Musa)

Read the full interview in the April 2023 issue (pg: 114). Available on the Gafencu app on Android and Apple.

Omakase Code: Understanding is the key to enjoying Hong Kong’s hottest Japanese food fad

Roughly translating as “I’ll leave it up to you”, Omakase is a distinctly Japanese style of food preparation, one where a skilled chef is entrusted to create a bespoke culinary experience for would-be diners. The only restriction is that it has to be attuned to their particular preferences and use solely the finest available ingredients.

It’s a style of dining that has become increasingly popular over recent years. This has seen it both move beyond Japan and find favour in restaurants serving a somewhat different fare to the sushi solely on offer in first-generation Omakase establishments.

Despite this broadening of the initial concept, the appeal of Omakase is still most clearly apparent in those sushi and sashimi restaurants where a bond of trust characterises the key customer-chef relationship. Put simply, the customer must have faith in the chef’s ability to create a unique and delicious meal, while the chef, in turn, must believe the diners in question are sufficiently discerning to appreciate his culinary artistry. This is why, for the optimum Omakase experience there should be no more than six-to-eight diners, all of them close enough to the chef to freely interact as he goes about his work.

Given that sashimi and sushi are the two most popular Japanese dishes, any chef skilled enough to prepare them Omakase style will seldom find himself surplus to requirements. Such individuals, after all, will have to have a keen mastery of an array of knife skills, as well as a deep understanding of how to truly present premium ingredients at their very best.

The comparative rarity of such culinary craftsmen, however, appears to have been no obstacle to Omakase’s conquest of Hong Kong, with the city now home to a growing number of such establishments. Typically specialising in the cuisine of one particular part of Japan, whether Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka, the chefs at all these restaurants are undoubtedly highly skilled and widely experienced when it comes to faithfully recreating their home country’s most-desired dishes.

Given the number of such establishments now competing for your custom, it’s well worth taking a little time to choose the one most likely to meet your needs. As a first step, try and assess the reputation of every prospective restaurant by reading the related reviews. It is also important to determine the likely per-diner cost of each establishment, particularly as dining in Omakase style in Hong Kong can prove prohibitively expensive.

Another factor to consider when choosing just where to dine is the specific type of cuisine on offer. While many restaurants focus solely on traditional Japanese cuisine, others have more of modern fusion menus or may have chosen to cater more to local tastes.

Finally, it is important to consider the ambience of each particular restaurant. Many Omakase restaurants are intimate and offer a distinctly personal dining experience, something that may not appeal to everyone.

Once you have chosen, booked and arrived at your favoured Omakase restaurant, it is then important to clearly communicate your preferences to the chef. Let him know what type of food you enjoy, as well as any dietary restrictions he should be aware of. Without this level of transparency on your part, it is unlikely your needs and expectations will be entirely met.

Bearing all of these factors in mind, you are more than equipped to fully immerse yourself in the finest Omakase experience Hong Kong has on offer. All you have to do now is choose just which one…

Read the full version of the article in the March 2023 issue (pg: 116) to discover the best Omakase establishments in Hong Kong. Available on the Gafencu app on Android and Apple.

The Archaeological Discovery That Unravelled The Story of A Lost Pharaoh

It was 1923 when Howard Carter, a British archaeologist and adventurer, had come across a burial site that had lain untouched since it had been dedicated to the memory of its revered occupant more than 30 centuries earlier. He had uncovered the tomb of the boy king Tutankhamun in the Valley of the Kings.

Tutankhamun, an 18th dynasty King thought to have died around 1323 BC, was buried with many of the accumulated testaments to his wealth and power in a royal necropolis. Its eventual uncovering delivered a unique treasure trove of past wonders.

Among the 5,000 priceless artefacts were a huge collection of ancient jewellery, commemorative statues, a disassembled chariot, weapons and royal regalia. There was a perfectly preserved mummy, with the long-embalmed body of the prince the first intact example ever to be found.

Also Read: Van Cleef & Arpels historic 1925 Egyptian-style jewellery

Long after the opening of the tomb, researchers completed a DNA analysis of the king’s body, allowing them to create a family tree spanning back five generations. The genetic tests also identified links with other mummies, including establishing that Akhenaten was his father, Amenhotep III his grandfather and Queen Tiye his grandmother. It was also determined that he ascended to the throne at the age of just nine following the death of his father. He also died young, being laid to rest in his entombment place when he was just 18.

Applying contemporary scientific techniques, including x-rays, CT scans and DNA testing, it was determined that Tutankhamun suffered from malaria as well as a number of other illnesses, while also having a cleft palate. He had also broken his leg shortly before he died.

It has also been speculated that the boy-king had died in a chariot accident, largely as parts of his chest wall and ribs were missing. While he was tall, he was physically frail, with a crippling bone disease in his clubbed left foot. He was the only pharaoh shown to have been depicted seated while engaged in such physical activities as archery.

Unlike most mummies, whose hearts were preserved for the afterlife, Tutankhamun has no heart. Instead, he was provided with an amuletic scarab inscribed with a funerary spell. It could be a sign that Tutankhamun died far from home. By the time his body arrived at the undertaker’s workshop, his heart may have been too decayed to be preserved.

There were also rumours of a curse afflicting the tomb. Indeed, the locals popularised the notion of the “Curse of the Pharaohs,” claiming that the hieroglyphs on the tomb walls promised swift death to all those who disturbed King Tut. Giving some credibility to this, Carter’s patron, Lord Carnarvon, died four months after first entering the tomb, while a dozen more deaths were later attributed to the curse.

Despite this, artefacts from the tomb have toured the world in several hugely popular museum shows, including the worldwide 1972-79 “Treasures of Tutankhamun” exhibition.

(Text: Zaira Abbas)

Read the full version of the article in the February 2023 issue (pg: 116). Available on the Gafencu app on Android and Apple.

Sam Lin on forsaking the high-tech world in favour of the lure of luxury auctioneering

Sam Lin of Madison Auction remains certain in uncertain times, seeing the glass (of wine) half-full. Fuelling his business mind with a sip of liquor and a puff of cigar, he hammers life’s odds – one bid at a time.

How did your career path take you into your role as Chief Executive of Madison Auction?
Back in the mid-90s, I developed my own system integration and service offerings, which were ultimately listed on both the Singapore and Hong Kong exchange markets. Asia Online, which I co-founded, was actually Hong Kong’s second Internet Service Provider. I then refocused my career on the luxury consumables sector, a move that was more in line with my family’s 30-year-old business with its focus on wine and spirits. This saw me integrate investment-grade cigars, wine and whiskey into the existing operation. As I had interned for some small auction houses in the UK, it was then a natural progression for me to also become an auctioneer for Madison Auction.

“The brand name was acquired from my partner’s existing business and we both agreed to persist with it.To my mind, good branding is essential for the success of any business”

What do you see as Madison Auction’s primary focus?
When we started, it was really about wine. More recently, though, we signed an exclusive deal with Pacific Cigar, the Asia-Pacific company behind the renowned Habanos Cuban cigar. In all, we have been auctioning investment-grade cigars for some six months now and it is gradually starting to take off for us. Looking back, there came a point where I had to choose between being a high-tech vendor or working in the luxury consumable sector, something I am passionate about. I chose the latter and that’s how the launch of Madison Wine came about in 2011. The brand was acquired from my partner’s existing business and we both agreed to persist with it thanks to its heritage. To my mind, good branding is essential for the success of any business.

Of late, have you seen any shift away from an interest in luxury auction items, with people looking to focus on more grounded essentials?
It really depends on where people are in their lives. As the world economy has been somewhat derailed over the past three years, some have, indeed, looked to re-focus on alternative investment opportunities. Fortunately for us, we also offer those kinds of opportunities. At the end of the day, though, any bid boils down to Economics 101 – the supply and demand chain. A lot of people have looked to alternative investment classes largely because the equity market has not been performing well. As a consequence, people have become more interested in investing in fine art wine or spirits hoping that they will appreciate in value. Even if they don’t, people know they will still be able to enjoy them afterwards for what they are. For me and for most people, happiness is always the ultimate priority.

To date, what has been the most expensive lot you have ever sold?
Well, we sold one lot of wine for more than HK$2 million and we sold a vintage cigar for about half that. In pre-pandemic times, when the world was still a lot more normal, we’d do three or four live online selling events every year and that was a really good business. But a lot of things have changed since the pandemic happened. Now, though, if I was asked to advise which category was likely to offer the most lucrative investment opportunity, I’d have to say whiskey. Over the past decade, it has given sustained returns of about 8% to 12% per annum.

Is it fair to say that auctions are solely reserved for the rich and famous?
Absolutely not. Especially for our category. We see a lot of participants from all walks of life. Of course, by default, auction houses have an affinity with the rich and famous, but as they have such smart purchase channels, there are also a lot of middle-ranking professionals who take an interest.

Today, I still believe that if you want to be successful, you need to immerse yourself in your chosen industry, which is something i share with my two children.

For you, what constitutes a good day at work and what constitutes a bad one?
As an integral part of the auction business, we entertain a lot of people at night, so it is definitely not a nine-to-five job. A good day at work inevitably involves a glass of wine or whisky and a cigar. A truly bad day at work, however, is one I have yet to really experience, partly because I always ensure I have lots of positive energy before I step into my office. I always tell myself to anticipate challenges, such as dealing with customs paperwork. It’s a good thing and I’m lucky to have such supportive and optimistic team with me. We all make each other’s job easier in a way. It’s good to also note that, people are people. We all make mistakes. To my mind, you have to deal with everything with a smile. As a manager, there’s no point in yelling at your staff. Instead, you have to ensure you have the right kind of communication, which inevitably requires a humanistic approach.

In terms of success, who do you admire and who inspires you?
Both Bill Gates and Steve Jobs have been inspirations to me. I grew up unable to afford a computer, while these two were emerging as IT pioneers. When I was 19, I applied to a number of tech companies, but no one wanted to hire me and I was advised to go back to school. Jobs and Gates were both college dropouts too, so maybe I can follow in their footsteps. When I worked in the hospitality sector, I had to teach myself every step of the way. Today, I still believe that if you want to be successful in your chosen industry, then you need to immerse yourself in it. I have two children of my own now, both in their twenties, and I wouldn’t, however, advise them to follow my example. Things are more complicated now. While I share my experience with them, I don’t recommend them to take the same approach. I believe in their own strength and talents. This is the best thing I can do as a parent.

How important has being based in Hong Kong been to your success would you say?
Believe it or not, I find great joy in being out and about in the further reaches of Hong Kong. It is a real contrast and welcome balance from being in the bustling centre of the city where I spend so much of my time. Aside from driving around the mountains and hanging out in country clubs, I also enjoy tram rides. Contrary to what many others might say, I find these more rural areas clear my mind even after just a few minutes. After a short break, I can bounce back to business with renewed energy. It always gives me a sense of belongingness to the city. It is truly the perfect short sweet escape from the daily Hong Kong busy work and grind life. I may be in and out of the city from time to time, but I will always come back to it. I find my home city has a very positive and unique energy.
Thank you.

(Interview by: Joseff Musa Photographer: Jack Law Art Direction and Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma
Videographer: Kes Lei Venue: Club K7)

NFTs: Future of investment or another bubble waiting to burst?

The world is now divided into two types of people: those who invest in NFTs and those who don’t. As mind-boggling as it is, an increasing number of people now use digital currency to purchase digital goods – or rather the certificates that legitimises ownership of said items – without ever having to physically touch them at all.

culture-cryptocurrency-nft-blockchain--might-are-nfts-investment-hongkong-beeple — 5000 days NFT artwork by Beeple

NFTs have been around since 2014, but they were relatively low profile before the end of the decade. They really began sweeping the internet last year, when this novel technology went mainstream and disrupted industries across the board, especially the art world. The NFT landscape has rapidly evolved over the past 12 months, with more institutions around the world and some governments recognising cryptocurrency as legal tender and NFTs as strong investments.

Even a traditional international art auction house like Sotheby’s has launched its own Metaverse dedicated to NFTs and digital art. So, those few who still staunchly prefer cash in hand might just have to come to terms with this new digitalised transaction that is revolutionising the financial, investment and creative sectors.

Cryptocurrency and NFTs: What’s the difference?
An NFT (non-fungible token) is a unique digitalised certificate that entitles one, and only one, person to exclusive ownership of an asset. Cryptocurrency is a peer-to-peer electronic cash system, such as Bitcoin, Ethereum and Doge, used to purchase NFTs. Blockchain is the platform on which all cashless digital transactions happen. The process is calculated by a large group of computers and recorded publicly, but anonymously, on the internet to ensure everything adds up. This provides transparency and avoids human error or the risk of financial mismanagement.

Yet, the use of digital ownership tokens remains controversial. While championed by artists and tech-savvy investors, others are cautious, citing a volatile, unregulated marketplace. Environmental campaigners, in particular, decry the huge amount of energy they eat up. What does that mean for Hong Kongers looking to invest in NFTs? And is embracing crypto a positive move for society? We break down the pros and cons…

culture-cryptocurrency-nft-blockchain--might-are-nfts-investment-hongkong-shoutartgallery-andrewmok-offgod-exhibition — Andrew Mok’s debut solo exhibition at Shout Art Hub & Gallery, Hysan place

Democratising art and the value of scarcity
NFTs spurred a creative boom for developers and artists last year. Helping to democratise art, they allow creators control and ownership of their created content while also sharing deserved revenue, and offering involvement in a community of like-minded individuals. The key takeaway here is that NFTs are one-of-a-kind, non-fungible and certified original tokens of an object, whose value is dictated by the community, not an institution or an art market.

culture-cryptocurrency-nft-blockchain--might-are-nfts-investment-hongkong-james-jean-forager — NFT artwork by James Jean Forager

Pro: They certainly benefitted Hong Kong high schooler, illustrator and graphic artist Andrew Mok. Also known as Offgod, Mok is a cover artist for social media rappers such as Bella Poarch, The Kid Laroi, and the late Juice Wrld. He was invited to do an NFT exhibition – his first solo exhibition – at Shout Art Hub & Gallery in Hysan Place – a gallery dedicated to NFTs and digital art and providing global support for local artists. “Offgod’s skill is very mature and creative with his own style and he has over 200,000 followers on social media from all over the world,” says gallery founder Christopher Tang. “The feedback from the market exceeded my expectations. We sold every art piece by the end of the first week – and some pieces pre-sold before the exhibition opened, which for a [then] 17-year old local artist is a miracle.”

Con: Difficulties arise when talking about value and how volatile the NFT marketplace can be. Unlike stocks or bonds, there is no way of knowing the intrinsic value of an NFT investment. What makes a successful NFT largely depends on how the popularity of the brand is, and how strongly the community feels about it.

The scarcity principle used in economics, social psychology and manipulating consumer behaviour theorises that greater value is placed on items that are scarce or in low supply, but in the case of NFTs, it is perhaps the exclusive ownership of a token that creates value rather than the uniqueness of the object itself. Why else would crypto entrepreneur Sina Estavi pay US$2.9 million for Twitter CEO and founder Jack Dorsey’s first tweet?

Pushing the boundaries of technology

There is one thing that is undeniable about the technology behind blockchain and cryptocurrencies, and it is that it has pushed the boundaries of how society and systems utilise computers for the purposes of validation and verification. As evidence by the 2008 financial crisis following the collapse of Lehman Brothers, there is room for error and risk of mismanaging financial systems when regulators are in a position to control funds.

Pro: Blockchain technology is a complex system that allows for strong security since it acts as a shared, immutable ledger; it is almost impossible to hack, alter and manipulate because all transaction records are publicly documented, in contrast to transactions conducted on traditional platforms.

Cons: However, ideal and utilitarian the blockchain is in theory, without the middleman or an institutional buffer between consumers and retail, NFTs leave investors vulnerable. Their value is volatile, and there is still the potential for fraud, scam and theft during transfers within the NFT marketplace, despite the security of blockchain and the anonymity it allows. The process and language can be complex as well, especially for those new to the NFT scene.

If the goal is to truly democratise blockchain and the NFT market for the masses, the exponential growth will require an institutional buffer to aid buyers and investors to oversee the marketplace, as risk in their trade is still very much present.

culture-cryptocurrency-nft-blockchain--might-are-nfts-investment-hongkong-boredape — Bored Ape NFTs by Bored Ape Yacht Club

Future or fad?
Whichever side one stands on the debate of NFTs as the future of investment, there is no denying the good they have reaped for artists and creators, inspiring them to take the lead in how their own creations are presented in the market. Artists have been enabled to deal directly with buyers and control the revenue they earn, while building communities of like-minded individuals with the same interests, fostering a positive and empowering influence for creators.

However, there are fears that a new law that will come into effect next year will stymie the growth of cryptocurrency in the city. The new legislation states that virtual asset trading platforms will face regulations and be monitored through a licensing system to prevent illegal activities, particularly money laundering. This will undermine the main point of decentralising, but perhaps it is a middle ground both sides can come together on.

Six most expensive local delicacies in Hong Kong

There’s no shortage of fine dining options in Hong Kong. But there’s also a brisk trade in exorbitantly priced delicacies – morsels that carry status by virtue of their scarcity and cost, or boast an impressive list of health benefits. Some of the most prized – and occasionally the downright weird – are put under the griller here.

Cocaine of the Sea

To find high-end fish maw, one need look no further than the many dried seafood outlets on the streets of Hong Kong’s Sheung Wan district. Fish maw is actually the swim bladder, a gas-filled organ located near the gills of fish – providing the buoyancy they need to maintain their depth in water. In truth, you can get a tasty serve of fish maw with a plate of Chinese vegetables and a bowl of steamed rice for under HK$100 at any number of cha chaan tengs dotted around the city – but for fish maw at the very top of the price spectrum, the cost is a good deal higher.

The most expensive fish maw is found in the Gulf of Mexico and is sourced from totoaba – a type of drum fish. Totoaba bladder is, in fact, so valuable it has been nicknamed the ‘cocaine of the sea’. It can reportedly fetch as much as US$129,000 (HK$1.01 million) per kg on the black market. There are, however, a couple of catches. The first is that international trade in totoaba maw is banned. The second is that totoaba is becoming increasingly rare due to overfishing, with grave concerns that it is being hunted to extinction. Fortunately there are plenty of more readily available sources of fish maw on the market if that’s your fancy.

Himalayan Viagra

Caterpillar fungus (a species of Cordyceps), is another in-demand delicacy with an extravagant price tag. It is prized for its aphrodisiac properties – which is why it is commonly referred to as Himalayan Viagra.

The life cycle by which the caterpillar fungus comes into is like something out of a B-grade horror movie, along the lines of The Invasion of the Body Snatchers. Caterpillar fungus is found on the Tibetan Plateau. It is here that it invades the bodies of caterpillars of the Thitarodes moth. The caterpillars are born underground, ingest a kind of fungus, which infects takes over the host’s tissue. These unfortunate caterpillars never metamorphosize. Their bodies are taken over by the caterpillar fungus, which then shoots out hardened plant roots.
In addition to its aphrodisiac properties, the caterpillar fungus is also believed to be a cure-all valued for its power to treat back and knee pains, reduce stress and coughing and even treat anemia by boosting haemaglobin levels – but it’s worth noting that these claims do not have a basis in science.

Especially popular as a Chinese medicine, caterpillar fungus sells for as high as 880,000 RMB (HK$1.03 million) per kg and is usually served up double-boiled in soup for maximum impact. Given the price, you would certainly want to get maximum bang for your buck.

For the Birds

Another very popular dish commonly served up on special occasions in Hong Kong is bird’s nest soup. The key ingredient here is actually the saliva of the a particular species of bird – the swift – which uses its saliva to bind its nest together and is prized for its all-round medicinal benefits, especially to the skin, the lungs and the digestive system. The substance extracted from the abandoned nests are highly expensive due to their rarity and difficulty of retrieval – as the swift nests high up on cliff faces and caves in Malaysia and Indonesia.

Consuming the saliva of another creature may turn off some diners but at least no birds were killed in the process, though the extraction process can be dangerous with those hired to collect the bird’s nest from their precarious resting places. Prices for the precious substance generally starts at around HK$175,000 per kg. As the name suggests, it is usually double-boiled in a soup of gelatinous strands.

Mushroom Madness

Mushrooms are a central part of much of traditional Chinese cooking – and are usually affordably prices and easily purchased in any number of wet markets around Hong Kong. But there are exceptions to this rule. With some mushrooms only available to those ready to part with a fair wad of cash.

The priciest of these exotic fungal delicacies is the Hericium Erinaceus. Also called lion’s mane and/or monkey’s head mushroom due to its characteristics shape, this rare and delicate fungus grows wild in the northeast Chinese province of Heilongjiang. It typically prospers in the trunk or hollow of a hardwood tree in the deep recesses of a forest. The fresh mushroom is more costly than the dried version and weights in at around 350 RMB per 500g, although it’s usually sold in half kilo lots. It is praised for boosting blood circulation and reducing cholesterol.
More expensive still is the matsutake mushroom. Commonly known as the ‘king of fungi’, this mushroom can only thrive in pristine forests free of human influence and grows wild in a number of provinces in northern China. It takes up to five years to grow to fruition and must be picked and consumed within 48 hours – making it a challenge to get it from forest to table.

The dried version is pricier than the fresh version and can fetch up to 2000 RMB per 500g. It usually steamed or served up in a soup but should be cooked at or below 90 degree Celsius to preserve its cancer-fighting properties.

Dried Abalone

Often gracing the tables of special occasion dining in Hong Kong and mainland China. these delicacies are often served up on special occasions. Abalone is a staple at multi-course meals in Chinese restaurants around Asia. Strict controls on the number of licences available push up the price of these tasty – if somewhat rubbery – gastropod mollusks. High in selenium, which is good to boost stamina, abalone can sell for up to HK$35,000 per kg.

Sea Cucumbers

Despite the name, sea cucumbers, are in fact marine animals. These slug-shaped seafloor dwellers were once popular at banquets in China but have fallen somewhat out of fashion in recent years. Although they can still fetch a price as high as 20,000 RMB per kg, driven up by how long these critters take to mature. It is believed that the recovery of post-operative patients can be speeded up eating braised sea cucumber in porridge.

Smart Fashion: Marrying luxury fashion with the latest in technology

Technology has always been the essence of fashion. At a commercial level, consumers do not pay that much attention to the meaning the clothes convey upon purchasing – unmindful that fashion and technology comes hand in hand. The fast-paced progress of technology complements fashion’s ever-evolving aesthetic and landscape. As a result, artificial intelligence is pushing its way to the forefront of the fashion industry, bringing forth a new era of garment manufacturing and sustainable production. This not only offers fresh looks and ground-breaking fabrics, but the opportunity to step forward in practicing clean, sustainable and eco-friendly living.

Shifting Silhouettes
Traditionally, clothes are created with the basic knowledge of hydraulics for function purposes and design, making it as much a field for technological innovation as an arena of style. Technological advances continue to underpin fashion, taking garment design and manufacturing technologies dramatically forward, to the extent that clothing can now be computerised, and computers can in turn create garments to be worn.

As new automated processes and techniques start to replace human skills, future notions of what fashion can achieve will be radically different from the current ones. Innovations such as laser-cut fabric technology, body scanning and nanotechnology with temperature-sensitive textiles, no-wash fabrics and phase-change materials (which stores and releases heat), are state-of-the-art technology that improve functionality as well as fit.

As often seen in lifestyle brands such as Nike and Lululemon, a new style of technologised clothing, also commonly known as ‘techwear’ or ‘wearables’. These are garments that are developed based on technological principles that also follow current fashion trends. With computers practically sewn into modern day garbs, clothing may be just another means of storing data in the future. Although today’s garments are conceived as individual structures, the technological interfaces that characterise these acoutrements will make fabrics a part of the global system in the future – proving fashion is more than just a façade.

The future of fashion will deliver more than a technological portal, making garments inextricably intertwined with one’s experience of wearing them. In fact, many fields of design are already exploring sustainable textile, fabcrics inspired by biomimicry is one example, allowing garments to thicken in autumn and slim down in spring – making linings and layers unnecessary. Some innovations are created with the aim of prolonging the garments’ lifespan. Forever clean fabrics and ‘sweat-proof’ shirts will transform clothing from wash-and-wear into self-cleaning or non-wash materials. As a result, seams will stop twisting out of shape and detailing will no longer fray or disintegrate, allowing clothes to look fresher for longer and giving them an extended life. Hence, well-tailored garments will continue to prevail, while throwaway chic may soon be obsolete.

Clothes Beyond Clout
The word sustainability has been dominating the fashion industry long before the term ‘woke’ made its way into our everyday vocabulary.Whether it is re-purposing used and old materials or simply opting for a much more eco-friendly alternatives, there are many ways to make an impact that are better for the earth, while still enjoyin the aesthetic fashion allows. However, it is easier said than done as sustainability has become somewhat of a marketing ploy for some major brands.

So, what exactly does sustainable fashion ential? It means eco-friendly practices on multiple levels across the industry, referencing the approach of design, production and consumption of clothes and accessories that avoid causing little to no damage to the earth, and in turn creating an industry practice that is sustainable for the environment. In an industry not always known for its transparency, consumers may look to brands that put an emphasis on transparency in their supply chain.

A leading example is Stella McCartney. She has earned public appreciation for her epynomous label’s business model and brand DNA that put sustainability, fair trade and anti-animal cruelty at the forefront of its production and supply chain long before sustainability was a hot topic.

Never mixing sustainability with non-sustainable components, while also excludeing products made from leather, fur and PVC. In 2005, the brand collaborated with sneaker giant Adidas to create ‘Adidas by Stella McCartney,’ a collection of sustainable sneakers and activewear that pushed the boundaries of what it meant to create an open and green ethos. In 2014, the brand launched Clevercare, a five-step labelling system that provides guided information on maintaining clothes – reducing waste and making each item a timeless piece.

More than just a high-fashion designer, Vivienne Westwood is also an activist that champions eco-friendly luxury fashion. In her Fall 2022 collection, the creative team opted for eorganic cotton, recycled polyester and nylon, as well as natural fabrics, led by the motto ‘Buy less, choose well, make it last’ at its core. According to the company website, they emphasise on making clothes with greater care, promoting arts and culture, while trying to mobilise people around climate change and human rights. These star examples pave the way for luxury fashion to take an ethical approach and move the needle in the right direction. With room for growth, the path forward cannot be an all-or-nothing approach.

Fashion Forward and Onward
On the other side of fashion’s future horizon, ‘life-cycle’ clothing is inspiring a new paradigm for fashion retail. Thrusting upcycled garments to the top of consumer goods, this practice takes old garments apart, remake them into entirely new fashion pieces that surpass their second-hand status and give them the same prestige as brand new clothings.

Fashion retail as we know it is already exploring a future in which consumers can contribute to the production cycle. No longer limited to the shelves of boutiques, consumers are taking a more active role in the creation process. As fashion companies depart from conventional retail, they are establishing fresh forums that enable brands to communicate with their consumers effectively, transforming their relationship with clothes – physically and emotionally. This reflects our ever evolving connection to fashion and technology.

(Text: Joseff Musa)

All About Jadeite: A symbol of wealth and status

old has value but jade is invaluable, goes the Chinese saying. A revered Asian obsession since time immemorial, the ‘stone of heaven’ is prized for its hardness, resilience and purity, not to mention the belief that it can heal and ward off evil.

In China, jade has long been viewed as a symbol of wealth and great privilege; during the Han Dynasty (202 BC-220 AD), Chinese nobility were interred in jade suits as part of an opulent ceremonial burial tradition reserved for the privileged classes. In a ritual suggesting that the smooth gemstone had magical abilities to prevent physical decay and provide an auspicious after-life, hundreds of square jade plaques were stitched together with wire to cover the body in its final resting place.

Archaeologists assumed tales of jade burial suits were the stuff of legend until two whole examples of said shrouds were unearthed in 1968 in the tomb of Liu Sheng, son of Emperor Jing, and his wife, Dou Wan. Replete with a total of 2,498 tiles of solid jade weighing two and half pounds and bound by the gold wire reserved for imperial lineage, their magnificence had excavators in awe.

While being bedecked in green at death is no longer the fashion, jade is still widely beloved as a status symbol, a valuable collectible and an investment option. A walk along any commercial street in China, Hong Kong or Vietnam affords the opportunity to admire jade jewellery worn by many in varied forms, from pendant to bracelet to prized cabochon ring.

Rising Fortunes

Jade trumps gold in value today – at about US$3,000 per ounce compared to bullion’s US$1,900. The mineral certainly outshone the metal in 2016 when auctioneers at the Shanghai World Jewellery Expo raised the opening bid for a jadeite to more than US$160 per gram (about $4,500 an ounce). It’s no wonder collecting jadeite (high-quality jade) is often viewed as offering greater investment return than buying real estate.

“There’s been an upward trend in jade’s prices over the last few years; China’s rising wealth has seen prices go through the roof,” says Chiang Shiu-fung, Vice-President and Senior Jewellery Specialist at Christie’s Hong Kong. A necklace that once belonged to American heiress Barbara Hutton comprising 27 vivid green jadeite beads – believed to have hailed from the Qing Dynasty court – and a Cartier clasp of rubies and diamonds sold at Sotheby’s in 2014 for an eye-watering US$27.44 million, roughly twice the estimated price.

When collectors part with millions of dollars for jade jewellery, what drives the market: the quality of the stone or its exquisite setting? “Always the quality, not so much the design,” noted Eddy Hui of iconic jade jewellery brand Edward Chiu Jewellery Art. In an interview with CNN in 2016, Hui remarked that sentiment and a stone’s value are inherently important to his traditional Asian clientele. “While Westerners pick more modern, beautifully carved jade pieces, the quality of the stone – the simplicity, originality and ability to make one feel calm – is the allure for most Chinese customers.”

Green Envy

One of the purest, hardest and most translucent minerals, jadeite presents itself with gleaming lustre and an array of colours – stunning apple green, lavender, white, even black. Its toughness allows for fine carving and polishing to increase its luminosity and create stunning jewellery and decorative objects. The best jadeite comes from Myanmar (Burma), and the most precious is the translucent emerald-green allure of so-called imperial jadeite. Nephrite, jadeite’s low-grade cousin, is a weaker, cloudier mineral.

Since the type and quality of jade differs enormously, having an eye for a fake is critical. Indeed, colour or polymer is often added to low-grade green stones to augment their visual appeal and make them look like the real deal.

Carving Class

Once the choice of the imperial court and then an elder generation of Chinese who covet its colour and protective powers, jade’s tranquil, glossy beauty is slowly spreading westwards. In 2008, former BBC journalist Andrew Shaw took an early retirement from the world of international news to learn jade carving in Suzhou, China.

Coming across a jade hawker stall in Thailand, the Londoner happened to pick up a quiet lavender jade Buddha. “It’s as if the beautiful stone sang to me. I fell in love, didn’t haggle, didn’t bargain, just bought it. The stone’s beauty and serenity were second to none,” says Shaw in his internationally acclaimed book, Jade Life: An Englishman’s Love Affair with China’s National Treasure.

From that moment he was pulled into the vivid intensity and energetic history of the stone. He learned the language and the delicate skills of carving the stone to become the only non-Chinese master jade carver in the world. “One in 20 Chinese wears some form of jade – yet no one in the West knows about this industry,” he notes.

Choose Wisely

As with all things precious, there is a dark underbelly to the world of jade. The most valuable jadeite mined in the Himalayan foothills of Myanmar remains shrouded in a trail of blood, crony capitalism and lack of labour laws. While blood diamonds attracted international attention and Hollywood scripts, the jade journey remains largely unscrutinised. There is only a basic, broad classification of jade and no certification process, which means the end customer has to rely on instinct or blind faith that the piece they’re paying very dearly for has been ethically sourced.

Christie’s Chiang shares important insight into what a layperson should look for in a stone before flexing their wallet. Texture, light and hue are the three most important factors when picking a piece. You should be able to feel the smoothness and appreciate the gloss of the stone. Colour is a key determiner of price: “Go straight for green, pure green; not bluish or sea green, just green,” he advises.

Translucency is paramount, so as far as possible see if light radiates from the stone and passes through it. Finally, bigger isn’t always best. “Large is good in bricks, not in a gemstone,” he quips. “If you have the option of buying a bigger, commercial-grade jade and a smaller, finer-quality stone – it’s better to go for the quality.”
Methodology aside, Chiang concurs with jade master Shaw. Love at first sight is the best way to connect with jade: “When you know, you just know.”

(Text: Nikita Mishra)

Hallyu to the World: The rise and rise of Korean Culture

Back in 1960, South Korea was one of the world’s poorest countries. In the wake of the Korean War, the northeast Asian nation was so poverty-stricken that its GDP per capita clocked in at a meagre US$79. Fast forward six decades, and the country is on an incredible high. Having transitioned from a largely agricultural economy to a high-tech producer of semiconductors, phones and cars, it boasts the fourth largest economy on the continent (in terms of nominal GDP), lagging behind only China, Japan and India.

Home to such plugged-in conglomerates as Samsung, LG and Hyundai, South Korea has also spawned a whole new hit of global exports: Hallyu. If the term is new to you, chances are the phenomenon it represents is not. For the uninitiated, Hallyu is the romanised form of hanryu, the term for what has come to be known as the Korean Wave – the immense growth and export of the country’s pop culture to the world.

When this movement first began some 20 years ago, it was quickly adopted by neighbours China and Japan, but today Western nations are equally enamoured with all things Korean, be it movies like the 2019 Academy Award-winning film Parasite, TV shows such as 2020’s Crash Landing on You and last year’s record-breaking Squid Game; music (think wildly successful bands such as BTS and girl squads Girls Generation and Blackpink); food, and even cosmetics.

The current global love for all things South Korean can be traced back to the turbulent times of the 1997 Asian financial crisis, when the nation took active measures to restrict cultural imports from Japan. To fill the resulting void, a new mission to foster and strengthen local culture and talent was initiated, including pouring funds into creative industries such as film and TV studios. High-quality Korean dramas were produced very cheaply, and these new media offerings rapidly gathered a fan base in China before reaching further afield. Thus, Hallyu spread to the West, piquing the curiosity and capturing the imagination of the ’90s generation.

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K-wave

Many liken the beginning of the Korean Wave to the popularity that Japan itself experienced around that time, when anime, manga, J-pop music and such heavy hitters as Pokemon and Studio Ghibli gained cult status beyond its shores. However, the critical difference between them is that Hallyu managed to capitalise on the emerging trend of digital globalisation, and thus became accessible to a wider international audience.

As Margot Peppers, Consumer Trends Editor at Foresight Factory, explains: “[Japanese culture is] still seen as offbeat, quirky and cool to like, but it is not necessarily mainstream. [Whereas] there has been such a push for K-dramas and stories that are rooted in Korean settings but still have universal themes and archetypes that everyone across the globe can relate to. They are built on this accessible universality that has really resonated with people.”

K-beauty

It’s no secret that standards of beauty are often set by what society sees in the media, and given the widespread dissemination of Hallyu, it’s not surprising that many young people want to mimic the pristine, pale skin of Korean celebrities, paving the way for the rise of K-beauty. The country’s cosmetics industry responded deftly, introducing a constant flow of new, innovative and sometimes unusual ingredients – snail slime, starfish extract, pig collagen and bee venom, to name a few – to serve up the Next Big Thing to consumers.

As a result, the South Korean beauty and cosmetics market now ranks among the top 10 worldwide. According to a study published by Portland-based research company Allied Market Research, the business was valued at US$10.2 billion in 2019 and is projected to grow to US$13.9 billion by 2027 – representing a staggering 36-percent increase.

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K-dramas

South Korean dramas always had an avid fanbase across Asia and its diaspora population, but they have now hit their stride on a global scale. It began when streaming service Netflix decided to break into K-dramas – as the country’s TV series are affectionately dubbed – and debuted its zombie drama series Kingdom in 2019. Since each episode cost a whopping KRW 2.2 billion (about HK$14.4 million) to make, the investment into Hallyu’s popularity was a gamble, to say the least, but the show was received with great acclaim.

Next to break records was Crash Landing on You, which stayed on Netflix Japan’s Top 10 list for 229 consecutive days; it even became the sixth most-watched series in the US. But that all pales in comparison to the enormous cultural impact of nail-biting survival series Squid Game. Having been streamed for a whopping 1.65 billion hours in the first four weeks of airing, it is Netflix’s biggest series launch ever, outstripping nearest competition Bridgerton almost two-fold.

Korean movies were no less in the spotlight, with comedy-thriller Parasite becoming the first non-English-language film to clinch Best Picture at the Academy Awards. Director Bong Joon-ho nabbed the Best Director prize as well. Then, last year, Minari – which follows the travails of a family of South Korean immigrants in rural ’80s USA – also garnered an Oscar (for supporting actress Youn Yuh-jung), prompting a new generation of Western cinephiles to explore other works by the creative talents in these films.

K-pop

While Korean food, cosmetics and films have undoubtedly permeated throughout Asia and the West, there is one aspect of Hallyu that outstrips them all – K-pop. Thanks to its distinctive blend of addictive melodies, slick choreography and production values, and an endless parade of attractive performers who spend years in gruelling studio systems learning to sing and dance in synchronised perfection, K-pop has become a global phenomenon.

No band exemplifies the rise of this sensation than BTS; the country’s leading musical act raked in a massive US$4.65 billion for its economy in 2019. To put that sum into perspective, it equates to 0.3 percent of South Korea’s entire GDP, and more than what many small African nations earned within the same timeframe.

While naysayers may scoff that Hallyu is but a passing phase, the mercenary truth of the matter is that the staying power of the movement is reflected by the financial gains involved. What’s more, it’s not just the bands and the nation that are basking in reflected glory – it’s multinational brands as well, with everyone from McDonald’s and Nike to Louis Vuitton cashing in on collaborations with BTS and their ilk. As long as the attractiveness of the Korean Wave continues to enchant fans, the world will remain at their dancing feet.

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(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Here’s what makes ❛oud❜ more expensive than gold!

Forget frankincense, and patchouli is so last century. Jasmine? Well, that’s just mundane. There’s a surprising five-star ingredient in the world of luxury scents that has been wafting into the Western consciousness of late. It is intense enough to stir the most jaded nose, and sufficiently surreal to intrigue non-traditionalists. Rich, woody, soft yet smoky; astoundingly rare, exotically precious and more expensive than gold – please give it up for oud.

Fragrance is subjective, yet oud (pronounced ‘oodh’) is the universal, lingering combination of luxury, fantasy and passion, blurring the line between great and extraordinary. Often described as “the scent from heaven” or “liquid gold”, it was ignored by the European master perfumers for thousands of years, but it’s once hidden sensuality is now finally etched in the scent-makers’ palette. Giving a modern spin to this old-world ingredient, they are experimenting with notes and creating strangely irresistible, singular, exclusive and sometimes startling blends.

Ode to Oud agard wood fragrance perfume gafencu 10 — (Photo courtesy of Tom Ford)

The Trail of Scent: From Tom Ford to MFK

The scent was first introduced to the Western world by designer Tom Ford in 2007 in his Oud Wood perfume. As Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie in Harrods, London, where the initial collection was showcased, put it:

“Tom Ford creates the most directional fragrances; where he leads, others follow.”

They were right: Jo Malone, Christian Dior, Armani Privé and Maison Francis Kurkdjian tapped into the trend and oud soon became mainstream – if that’s the right word for something so rarefied. The prospect of getting under people’s skin and bagging a share of the fragrance industry’s massive US$31 billion year-on-year revenue stream led to the bottling of an enticing number of such rich, woody, smoky and sensual perfumes.

Visionary French master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, who boasts a keen understanding of how raw ingredients behave, finds oud fascinating. He’s drawn to its animalistic notes, finding it “a wild beast (yet) to be tamed”. So, what exactly is oud – where does it come from, and what makes it one of the most expensive fragrance ingredients known to the human nose?

Ode to Oud agard wood fragrance perfume gafencu 9 — (Photo courtesy of Maison Francis Kurkdijian)

Smells like Money
Not a pretty plant, oud is Arabic for wood and is derived exclusively from the agar, a tree in the evergreen Aquilaria family. When the heartwood of agar is infected with a specific type of mould, it oozes a sticky, scented resin to protect itself from the parasitic infection. The oil from this resin – oud or agarwood – is extremely precious. There is nothing quite like it in the olfactory world – dark, sensual and intense, kilo for kilo it is more expensive than gold but strangely it’s just an incredibly aromatic anti-fungal!

“The scent has a fruity facet … and a very waxy side. It’s potent animal inflection is powerful, persistent and very special”

The main reason oud is so expensive is its rarity; not every tree gets infected with mould and thus emits the rich resin. For reasons still unknown to science, only some two to seven percent of wild agar trees produce this gooey ‘gold’, and experts claim the very best oud comes from the oldest trees, which are even more scant. Lower quality oud may cost about US$5,000 per kilogram, but the finest variety of Cambodian oud can easily command beyond 10 times that price. But price is directly proportional to ageing – a decade ago, an anonymous collector gave US$7,000 for barely half a teaspoon of pure oud oil made in 1982 for Sultan Qaboos of Oman from 100-year-old agarwood trees.

History of Agarwood
Writings from the Tang and Song Dynasties show agarwood was a valued commodity in China. Its intoxicating scent was revered across religions and there is evidence of it being extracted for fragrance in Vietnam as early as the third century A.D.
Renowned for his heady, enchanting perfumes, Kurkdjian travelled to Laos and Cambodia to source a “very specific type of oud, aged for 15 years and harvested with the strictest quality standards”. The scent, which infuses the maison’s Oud eau de parfum, has “a very fruity facet, reminiscent of peach and saffron, and has a very waxy side. Its potent animal inflection is powerful, persistent and very special.”

From Assam (India) to Middle East – Thirst for Gold
Oud possesses a cultural significance in the Middle East that is hard for outsiders to grasp. When burned in the house to welcome guests, wafts of the delicious, musky aroma linger in a precious, purified trail. Gifted to wives, bosses and friends, each chip of agarwood tells a different scented story, encapsulating the culture and life of Arabs. There is no such olfactory parallel in the Western realm.

Oud worn in the Middle East smells very different from the scent that infuses today’s Western perfumes. Abdulla Ajmal, third-generation scion of the Ajmal Perfumes family of India, says that foreign perfumers douse the earthiness of oud by blending it with the likes of patchouli, jasmine, bergamo, green neroli and tuberose. Traditionally in the Arab world, the liquid gold stands on its own as an essential oil.

Ajmal Perfumes, which moved to Dubai in the 1970s, has long sourced its high-quality agarwood chips from Assam, India. With rising demand and scarce supply, industry players keep tight-lipped about the exact location of the aromatic wood. “Everyone has their sources and they’re protective about them,” says Ajmal. “Only dealers on the ground know where the wild Aquilaria forests exist and haven’t yet been destroyed.”

“Only dealers on the ground know where the wild Aquilaria forests exist and haven’t yet been destroyed”

The chance occurrence of resin formation has led to considerable swathes of Aquilaria trees being destroyed. One can’t look at a tree and tell if its trunk is infected with oud, so farmers chop them down in the hope of extracting huge rewards. This has gone on for centuries, leaving the tree endangered in most Southeast Asian countries.

As the stock of 100-year-old agarwood borders on extinction, several perfumers have established their own plantations. When the tree reaches maturity, it is injected with the artificial bacterium to cultivate oud. Chemically, the experiment is a success, though Ajmal says this fragrance pales in comparison to what his grandfather could gather a few decades ago.

The staggering shortage has prompted some fragrance houses to turn to synthetic, lab-made oud, but it’s not an easy substance to mimic. Ajmal notes, you can smell the “cheap, artificial stuff from 50 feet”. It is, indeed, not the rich, woody, smoky, animalistic scent we have come to treasure.

The full version of this feature appears on Gafencu Magazine’s January 2022 print issue as ❝Ode to Oud❞ by Nikita Mishra. Download the free app (iOS, Android) for digital editions of the magazine.

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