Jacky Tang: Man of Note

Jacky Tang is a man donning many hats. As well as heading the Portfolio Management Group and co-heading the Investment Strategy Group in Asia at Goldman Sachs Investment Private Wealth Management, Jacky Tang is also an adjunct professor at the City University of Hong Kong, the chairman of the Rehabilitation Service of the Evangelical Lutheran Church Social Service and the founder of the Chi Mei Children Education Fund.

What can you tell us about your early years?

I grew up in Hong Kong and finished my schooling and university career here before going to the UK and then to China for further studies. I had a very regular childhood and, while I was quite interested in sports, I was also academically-inclined. As with most Hong Kong kids, I tried to strike a balance between the two, while also being quite a good singer, well, good enough to win a few competitions at least.

For you, did the world of finance always beckon?

To be honest, I got drawn into that particular world almost by accident. My dream career was always to be a doctor and my parents wanted me to go to medical school. When I finished school, though, I wanted to go to the same college as my then-girlfriend and she decided to attend the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, which unfortunately didn’t have a medical department. Going against my parents’ wishes, I then signed up for an engineering degree.

By the time I graduated, though, the technology bubble had already burst in Hong Kong, leaving me without a job and obliging me to look for options in other sectors. Thankfully, a finance company took me on as a quantitative analyst. Ever since then, I have stayed in the finance sector.

You have a full-time job at Goldman Sachs, while also being involved in charity work in both Hong Kong and China, as well as undertaking academic duties at the City University of Hong Kong. How do you manage to find time for it all?

Time management is like playing Tetris – you have to position each tile properly and, once each line of tiles is aligned, it vanishes. It’s all about how well you allocate your time and you have to find the right pace. Alongside that, you have to leverage your work.

How does a typical day pan out for you?

I wake up at 5am, read newspapers, get ready and aim to be in the office by 7am. My office hours are typically engaged in meetings and research. Then, over dinner, I tend to meet up with my associates from various NGOs. Afterwards, I may go home or go to the gym. My day ends after a round of conference calls with colleagues in other time zones, such as New York.

You were recognised as one of Hong Kong’s Ten Outstanding Young People in 2017. How did it feel to get that particular accolade?

I felt very honoured. I have been working in finance and supporting charities for 15 years now, always trying my best and hoping for a good result. I see the award as recognising all that.

You are well-known for championing care for those with mental disabilities. What drew you to that particular cause?

Well, if you look at Hong Kong’s budget, there’s quite a focus on services for the elderly, which makes sense given the city’s changing demographic. For people with mental disabilities, though, even while there is a budget, it’s nowhere near big enough.

The other big issue is that the average life expectancy of mentally disabled individuals has increased considerably, creating an issue as to who exactly will care for them in their old age. It’s a problem that, I think, needs to be discussed more widely. In line with that, when we organise events or functions, we always hold them in shopping malls, ensuring that as many people as possible are aware of what we are doing.

If you hadn’t gone into finance, is there an alternative career you would have liked to have followed?

If I could start all over again, I’d like to be a singer. As I said earlier, when I was young I was quite a performer and even finished in the top 10 of one Hong Kong’s most popular singing competitions. To go any further in that competition, though, I would have had to sign a contract and my parents weren’t keen on the idea. Nowadays, I only really sing karaoke but, as everyone knows, good karaoke is really more about socialising than singing…

Thank you.

Interview by: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Photos: Neville Lee
Art direction: San Wong
Venue: Le q Café & Bar

For the full interview with Jacky Tang, please check out the latest issue of Gafencu’s print magazine or the PDF version on the Gafencu app. Download the app from the Google Play Store or Apple App Store

Snow Queen: Patty Tung of Fera skiwear fame talks family and fitness

Patty Tung runs the Asian operations of Fera, the ski/leisurewear brand started by her mother. In an exclusive interview with Gafencu, she reveals how fitness and family are eternally intertwined…

Let’s start at the beginning – how did a California girl end up in Hong Kong?

Even though I was born in California, as kids we always spent the summer in Hong Kong visiting relatives. I fell in love with the city and thought: ‘Wow, this place is amazing.’

Was there any culture shock when you moved here permanently?

It was already familiar to me from my childhood visits and my husband is from Hong Kong too. As a result, the city was a constant in my life even before we relocated here.

You’re now running the Asian operations of Fera, your mother’s ski/leisurewear brand. What can you tell us of its history?

After moving from Shanghai to Hong Kong, my grandfather opened a factory here, initially making dress shirts. He then expanded into insulated jackets, a move that saw him working with many premium European ski brands.

In the ‘70s, it struck him that US skiwear was nowhere near as good as that available in Europe. With my mother already based in the US and keen for a new adventure, it was the perfect opportunity to expand into a new market. Using our family’s strong manufacturing background, they set about creating a fashionable skiwear brand – Fera.

How would you define Fera’s USP?

Our motto is ‘Look good, feel good’. While some brands, such as Gore-Tex, major on their technical specifications, we have a more happy-go-lucky ethos. For us, it’s all about wearing something that looks good, feels comfortable and makes you more confident.

How did you come to be involved?

I didn’t get involved full-time until about seven years ago. At that time, as a hardcore skier, I wasn’t really designing for Fera, but more for myself, which wasn’t really what our buyers were looking for.

After a while, I started to take stock of what was actually selling and it wasn’t at allwhat I expected. At the time, our most popular product was a quilted jacket with a fur-trimmed hood – a world away from the kind of technical skiwear I was designing. That’s when I really started to appreciate what we’re really all about. It’s about versatility, not technical specifications.

What lies ahead for Fera?

Right now, we’re expanding and looking to establish ourselves in China. We’re also looking to relaunch our kids’ range. People go skiing as families and we have to factor that in.

How much crossover is there between your work life and your personal life?

Thankfully, my whole family loves skiing. So, every winter, we product test our inventory for ourselves. Even though the Fera range isn’t super technical, it more than meets our needs.

Do you hope your sons will take over from you one day?

I think that’s too far ahead to even think about it too seriously. When I was growing up, it was never a given that I would join the family firm, so there’s no pressure on my kids.

I have told them, though, not expect to have a tenured spot waiting for them and they are used to me saying: ‘You can’t work with mummy or daddy until you’ve proven yourselves.’

Aside from Fera, what else is on your current agenda?

My southern California roots really dictate my lifestyle. Although I grew up in a place where jogging and aerobics are huge, having young children obliges you to give all that up. Two years ago, though, I started working with a personal trainer.

I’ve relished the new challenge and I now feel more energetic and younger than I did five years ago. I want to help others embrace this mindset as well, so I’m thinking about how to merge this with my thoughts on nutrition, a subject I have a degree in. It’s all bubbling in my head at the moment…

What inspires you? Is there a particular maxim you have taken to heart?

That maxim would be: ‘Always learning’.

As for a role model, that would have to be my mother. She really has done it all. She was a competitive swimmer in China and then helped my grandfather launch his factory in Hong Kong. When she moved to the States, she spoke virtually no English but still got into UC Berkeley. As well as being a pioneer female chemist, she also started Fera, got involved in real estate and manages her own stock portfolio.

She taught me that there’s no limit to what you can achieve if you put your mind to it. While we may not have the same interests, it’s her example that keeps me learning and trying new things.

Thank you.

Interview by: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Neville Lee
Art Direction & Styling: San Wong
Make-up: Irene Hung
Hair: Billy Wong (E3)

For the full interview with Patty Tung, please check out the latest issue of Gafencu’s print magazine or the PDF version on the Gafencu app. Download the app from the Google Play Store or Apple App Store

Curator Conversations: Inside Hong Kong’s Opera Gallery

Originally founded by Gilles Dyan in 1994, Opera Gallery has established 12 locations around the world including London, Geneva and New York. With museums as well as private clients worldwide, Opera Gallery is one of the leading dealers in modern and contemporary art.

In celebration of Art Month, we talked to Sharlane Foo, Director of Opera Gallery Hong Kong to learn more about life as a curator.

Having started your career at the Museum of Contemporary Art Loewen in Singapore and then relocating to the UK for further studies at Sotheby’s Institute of Art, it is clear that you have always had a passion for art. What are your earliest memories and experiences with art and what were your main inspirations behind these pieces?

My father travelled a lot for work and he always brought a book home. For me, I treasured the art books the most and I would read them until I wore them out. During one of our family trips to London for the summer, while in my early teens, a poignant moment for me occurred on a visit to the Tate Modern. Entering the Mark Rothko room was such an incredible experience and that was when I decided that I wanted to be in an industry that allowed me access to such beauty.

What inspires you to drive awareness for collectors and emerging artists?

My role in the gallery is to bridge the gap between artists and collectors. I find that collectors gain the most satisfaction when they have the utmost understanding and a true connection to the artist. I feel extreme happiness when I can bring both sides together. You have a wealth of experience in contemporary and modern art.

How do you use this to strengthen collaborations with artists?

I am blessed to have had great experiences with artists, and feel doubly fortunate to be part of the Opera Gallery group led by Founder and Chairman Gilles Dyan. As a global organisation with 12 galleries worldwide, we (collectively) have a wealth of experience and knowledge of the industry that we all call upon. I also work very closely with the group’s Art Director David Rosenberg to bring on new artists to our Hong Kong gallery roster.

Have you observed any recent trends among Hong Kong art collectors and more specifically, at Opera Gallery?

Opera Gallery Hong Kong has gone through a number of changes over the past year. We are progressing and moving with the times and our collectors. One trend that has become apparent is a slight shift in the demographic of the clientele. We are now seeing more of a younger crowd walking through our doors, which is exciting. We are always keen to meet new collectors and to learn more about their interest in the works on our walls.

Will Opera Gallery feature any art exhibitions at Art Central in March?

We are thrilled to be a part of Art Central 2018 and will showcase a number of magnificent artists, one of which includes Manolo Valdes. Following the great success of Valdes’s monumental sculptures shown in Singapore and Paris, we are bringing the same energy to Hong Kong. During Art Month in March we will also have a group exhibition at Opera Gallery for three amazing Korean Artists: Yoo Bong Sang, Lee Gil Rae and Seo Young Deok. We consistently strive to bring unique talent to Hong Kong to engage local art enthusiasts.

Following the success of Mike Dargas’ exhibition, what’s in store for Opera Gallery this year?

The successful opening of Mike Dargas’ exhibition empowered us to take on more avant-garde works by young global emerging artists. We have a great 2018 ahead of us with a superb line-up for the coming year. With four floors of gallery space, we can bring Hong Kong a diversity of artists that work closely with us and we are always thrilled to see new faces through our door!

Frock Star: Yen Kuok talks fashion, family and business

Yen Kuok, daughter of “The Sugar King” Robert Kuok, is the Founder and CEO of second-hand luxury e-commerce site Guiltless.

Kuok gives us the lowdown on her passion for fashion and the evolution of Guiltless in this exclusive online Q&A following our March 2018 print coverage.

Tell us about Guiltless. What inspired you to start it?

Guiltless, as its name implies, tries to help the modern woman sort through her guilt-filled closet. Thanks partly to the popularity of online shopping, a lot of people are accumulating excess clothing. This is creating a real problem given that most people have a limited amount of closet space.

Many Asians are also keen to be seen in the latest seasonal styles, but they don’t want to be wear the same outfit twice. In light of all of this, I thought there really should be an easy way for people to recycle – or upcycle – their clothing. In the States, buying and selling second-hand clothing is pretty much a way of life, but it’s never really caught on in Asia

What inspired you to name your venture Guiltless?

Well, my basic thought was that it was all about helping the ladies of Hong Kong deal with the guilt occasioned by their over-full closets. It’s also a way of allowing them to shop guiltlessly, as they know there is now a recycling channel in place.

You’ve followed quite a different route to the rest of your family….

I’ve always been the black sheep of the family. I’ve always been the one that went off and did their own thing. I was the only one to attend a local school all the way through and I was also the first to move out.

As the youngest of my father’s eight children, I knew that my older brothers and sisters had already stepped up and taken key roles in the family business. I then had the luxury of going my own way and trying something new.

Talking of something new, last year you trialled a Guiltless pop-up shop for two months. How was that received?

Very well. So, well, in fact, that we kept it open for two months rather than just for one month as we had originally planned. It was very encouraging to see that Hong Kong people have embraced the recycled clothing concept, buying into it for both environmental and financially prudent reasons.

Overall, has being the daughter of such a well-known businessman as Robert Kuok been a blessing or something of burden?

I’ve always see it as something of a negative. From being very young, my parents were very keen that none of us took their wealth for granted. My mum, in particular, was very strict with me while I was growing up, even to the extent of giving me the bare minimum of pocket money – literally just a few dollars. My friends always had more money than I did and I would be like ‘Can I borrow from you to buy hamster stickers?’

At school, it also counted against me. Whenever I achieved something, people would assume strings had been pulled or an expensive tutor had given me extra coaching.

As a champion of recycled clothing, are you still allowed to have a favourite designer?

I really like Anna Dello Russo. She has a lot of personality. She takes risks and goes out of her way to look good, which is very refreshing. I think, above all, you have to be honest with yourself and Anna Dello Russo certainly is. Her attitude is very much: ‘Yes I’m over the top, but everyone knows it and I love it.”

I also really like Iris van Herpen, a Dutch designer. She was one of the first commercial 3D-printed designers and her stuff is still relatively hard to find. Her outfits are very intricate, which fits in with my rejection of minimalism.

Overall, having done so many things and played so many different roles, how would you like to be remembered?

I really like the idea of being seen as a woman who was strong and self-sufficient, yet nurturing. Someone who took care of others and was, hopefully, wise beyond her years. I like to think that I long ago realised that the world was not all about me. While I’m still a long way off achieving all of those goals, they are still what I am aiming for and they’re still the way I’d like to be remembered.

Thank you

The full version of this interview appears on Gafencu Magazine’s March 2018 print issue as “Frock Star” by Julienne C. Raboca . You can download the free app for digital editions of the magazine.

Charles Pang on failure, ‘tiger parents’ and educating China

For Charles Pang, Executive Director of the Canadian International School of Beijing, success is more than just academic…

You grew up in Canada. What do you recall of those years?

I moved to Toronto when I was about five or six and went to boarding school there, which proved to be one of the most wonderful experiences of my life. Some of the people I met during that time became lifelong friends.

What brought you back to Hong Kong?

You could say that I never really came back to Hong Kong. After university, I headed off to join the family education business in Beijing. It was only after I got married that I started to spend more time in Hong Kong, largely because my wife – and then, later, my kids – lived here.

Read: Singer Charlene Chou Xuan on spreading traditional Chinese music to new audiences

Initially, your family was heavily involved in the textile sector, but then switched into education. What triggered such a dramatic change?

Around 1994, my father was part of Team Canada, a business delegation invited to meet Li Peng, then the Chinese Prime Minister. One of the issues discussed was the possibility of exporting the Canadian education system to China. With Li’s blessing, we then launched the Canadian International School of Beijing (CISB), with my father as one of the founders. Today, CISB has more than 30 branches across China, catering mainly to the expat community.

Do you see your schools as having had an impact on China’s education system overall?

Education in China is very much focused on the gao kao, the National Higher Education Entrance Examination, an approach that I find quite one dimensional. Typically, the teacher speaks and the student just listens. In our schools, the teacher is more of a guide, rather than forcing education on students.

We also took a lead in terms of technology. Some 10 years ago, we were the first to bring Smart Boards into the classroom. Now, nearly all of the schools in China have followed our lead.

Over recent years, the education sector has been transformed. What do you see as the most dramatic change?

When we started CISB 16 years ago, education was not at all technology-based and everything was still taught in a traditional fashion. Now, the internet has become an integral part of the educational process.

This is to the extent that we rarely use blackboards or whiteboards anymore, with many schools set to become entirely paperless. Similarly, homework and assessments can now be submitted online, with teachers able to instantly award grades and provide feedback. It also allows parents to go online and check grades in real time.

Moving on, you’ve now ventured into the luggage sector…

Ah, Ventris; it’s an aspirational lifestyle brand. The concept came about two years ago and then a few of us got together and informally launched the brand. Initially, we were just making luggage for family and friends but, after a few people commented on its commercial potential, we decided to get more serious about it. The brand has been under development ever since, with an online launch planned very soon.

The luggage sector is famously competitive – what do you see as Ventris’ USP?

It’s made from carbon-fibre, the same material racing cars are built from. As a result, it’s super-sturdy, yet very light. While we hope it will appeal to those who enjoy a fast-paced, jet-set lifestyle, it’s not going to be mass-produced. It’s a bespoke line for a distinctly niche clientele. We definitely won’t be going up against TUMI, Rimowa or any of the other big brands.

Does that complete your business portfolio or do you have other plans?

Well, I have just opened a restaurant in Causeway Bay – the Phó Metro. We also have a number of new schools opening this year – two in the US and two in Canada. Just as we brought Western education to China, we’re now looking to export Chinese language and culture to North America, with the Chinese Ministry of Education being one of our key backers. It’s also partly about giving the children of Chinese ex-pats the opportunity to learn about their own language and culture.

Read: A guide to gentlemen’s grooming and skincare in Hong Kong

In terms of teaching your own children, what are the most important values you have sought to instill in them?

For me, it’s important that they grow up well-mannered and considerate. I am actually okay if they don’t turn out to be too academically-inclined. I am a great believer in the importance of kids being kids.

Right now, I see a lot of ‘tiger’ parents in Hong Kong, mums and dads who are constantly pushing their kids to over-achieve at school. Many of them are packing their kids’ after-school hours with endless extra-curricular activities and supplementary tutoring, with their children having little say in it.

I feel most Hong Kong kids don’t really get the freedom to enjoy their childhood. While I was growing up in Canada, we really had the chance to be ourselves and kids need that. They shouldn’t be burdened with their parents own unfulfilled ambitions.

Read: The 300 Most Powerful People in Hong Kong

Overall, then, do you see yourself as a laid-back parent?

No, not laid-back, but I do want my children to realise their full potential in as natural a way as possible. Of course, that doesn’t mean there are no ground rules. While I ensure that homework is done, I don’t force them to do things they don’t like. Inevitably, if you force your children into learning something they have no interest in, they will never excel at it.

Finally, as a successful entrepreneur with several businesses under your belt, what advice would you give to those looking to follow in your footsteps?

As an entrepreneur, you should never be afraid to fail. Not all businesses will succeed, and failure is part of the learning process. On top of that, you need a good business plan, solid finances and a willingness to work very hard indeed. Above all, though, learn from your mistakes and apply that knowledge to your next venture.

The full version of this interview appears on Gafencu Magazine’s March 2018 print issue as “Class Act” by Suchetana Mukhopadhyay. You can download the free app for digital editions of the magazine.

The Perfect Fit: Clothier Mark Cho gives us the low-down on classic menswear

Mark Cho is the co-founder of classic menswear store The Armoury and co-owner of British retailer Drake’s. Having worked in commercial real estate in the UK and China for many years, Cho decided to pursue his passion for clothing after helping W.W. Chan & Sons Tailor with their London trunk shows.

Cho gives us the lowdown on the true meaning of classic menswear and the evolution of The Armoury in this exclusive online Q&A following our February 2018 print coverage.

Having cut your teeth in real estate, how did you wind up working in menswear?

I used to work in commercial real estate in the UK and China, and then about seven years ago I decided to pursue my passion for clothing.

I’ve been into classic, tailored clothing ever since I was a teen. The school I attended allowed students to switch from a uniform to a suit at age 16, so with that in mind I started investigating my options. Once I started peeling back the layers, I realised there were all these aesthetic and cultural rules that underscored classic menswear. I was instantly hooked.

What’s the idea behind The Armoury?

The tagline for The Armoury is “international classic artisanal clothiers”. A lot of people don’t realise that aside from the traditional British or Italian aesthetic, many other countries are making great classic clothing. We wanted to show the world that there’s great stuff in Spain, France and Japan as well as what you might expect from the more obvious tailoring regions.

Your style seems to be the epitome of classic. Do you follow fashion trends at all?

I typically stay within the realm of classic. I don’t buy overly designed clothing–it’s too trend-driven and ‘of the moment’. What I do appreciate about fashion, though, is that it’s a shared experience. It brings a group of people together for the sole reason that everyone is wearing the same thing, and I think that can be beautiful.

How did you come to co-own Drake’s?

I took over Drake’s in 2010. At the time, I had been purchasing ties from Drake’s to sell at The Armoury and W.W. Chan. The owner, Michael Drake, was looking to retire and he had no successor. He was starting to think about selling the company and I happened to be in the right place at the right time.

In my opinion, Drake’s has the finest neckties on the market. I love the aesthetic – it’s British but draws from French and Italian influences when it comes to colour. I grew up in the UK, so naturally I have an affinity for all things British.

You’ve well versed in the history of tailoring in Hong Kong. Is it an industry that can survive here?

I think there’s a viable future, but it will have to adapt. A lot of Hong Kong tailors have moved their productions to China. Unfortunately, Hong Kong has had a reputation of being a cheap and cheerful tailoring city for far too long, and they didn’t price in what it would take to keep the industry going for successive generations. It’s a real shame because the quality of Hong Kong tailoring is extremely good, and they’re quite cheap for what you get – perhaps too cheap. Many might not be able to afford taking on an apprentice. A lot of the good tailors are heading towards retirement with no guarantee that the next generation will take over.

What’s the most valuable item in your closet?

The Armoury collaborated with Tokyo-based clothier Tailor CAID to create a new aesthetic, which doesn’t happen often because tailoring is such a mature thing. We set out to make something original, and what we ended up with was the Model 99 suit, which I actually wore for Gafencu’s photo shoot.

The Model 99 is all about drape, which means that the chest in the jacket doesn’t necessarily touch the body. It harks back to military uniforms and the idea that the chest should be fuller and a little more curved..

It’s probably my most interesting and valuable garment because it’s the summation of my experiences with getting to know a lot of different people over the years and being able to put all those ideas and influences into one garment.

Thank you.

Catch our main interview with Mark Cho in Gafencu magazine’s February 2018 print issue, out now!

Yen Kuok gets candid on fashion and identity (Part II)

In an online exclusive for Gafencu magazine, Robert Kuok’s youngest daughter talks about giving up her Malaysian passport and fashion inspirations. Gafencu sits down for an exclusive interview with the sprightly fashionpreneur.

Yen Kuok at the *Gafencu* photo shoot last December 2017 at her father’s Island Shangri-La

In part two of our exclusive digital-only edition Q&A with Yen Kuok, we get up close and personal with the founder of second-hand luxury business Guiltless, who considers herself full Hong Kongese. If you missed the first part, read all about it here.

Would you say that the tag of ‘Robert Kuok’s daughter’ has been a heavy presence following you around?

Growing up, it was definitely not something I was proud of. At school I was a good student, so I was picked to join interschool organisations. I remember we would go to meetings and afterwards my driver would come pick me up, but obviously it would be awkward if everyone’s taking the MTR. They’d be like, ‘How are you getting back?’ to which I would say, ‘Oh, I’m walking to the bus stop.’ ‘Which bus stop?’ ‘Oh I don’t remember the name, somewhere down that road’ – I would try to cover it up.

If I had been sent to an international school like my older siblings, I probably would have been very different, but my parents decided to send me to Diocesan Girls’ School – one of the most academically competitive local schools in town. The environment was cutthroat, pushing me to prioritise doing well in my studies. I was much more chilled and less driven before going to DGS as a kid!

Your dad being Malaysian Chinese, would you consider yourself Hong Kongese?

I consider myself one hundred percent Hong Kongese. I gave up my Malaysian passport – I don’t speak the language, don’t have any friends there, rarely go there. I might as well call myself Japanese ‘cause I go to Tokyo more often than KL!

You would never catch me dead in something like Céline or Haider Ackermann, I’m not going for that aesthetic. I have been in this maximalist phase for the past few years versus minimalism.

What do you like to do in your free time?

I had a really horrible break up a year and a half ago, and it wrecked my skin. I’ve gone through really tough periods before, but that was the only time my skin was affected so dramatically by emotional stress. I broke out had rashes everywhere – it was horrible. I didn’t leave the house, I was crying everyday… I finally said, ‘I need to fix my life. Let me start with my skin.’

I began looking into skincare, going deep from ingredients to ‘What is the best kind of exfoliator?’ or ‘What’s the difference between an apricot shell scrub and a walnut shell scrub??’ [Laughs]

When I set my heart on something I go all in, so ever since then I’ve become all my friends’ go-to person whenever they have skin problems or want recommendations. I’m always the first to know about beauty gadgets, home lasers, nano-current devices, LED facial machines… That’s what I do in my free time – I read beauty blogs to research on skincare!

Styling by San Wong; Photography by Neville Lee

Let’s talk about fashion, since you’ve taken the deep dive into doing business in the industry ever since. Who are your favourite icons and go-to designers?

You would never catch me dead in something like Céline or Haider Ackermann, I’m not going for that aesthetic. I’m all about Erdem, Nanette Lepore, and of course the Dolce & Gabbanas, the Cavallis, the Versaces…I have been in this maximalist phase for the past few years versus minimalism.

There’s a fine line between what I mentioned and being overdone or tacky, sure, but I can’t help but be drawn to complexity and pattern. Etro is one example, for the diversity of textures, and then there’s Iris van Herpen who does 3D printing, which is all about the intricacy. Check out some of her runway pieces, they’re really beautiful. I remember she came out with this innovative skeleton dress which visualized the inside of the body outside [Editor’s Note: The piece was later acquired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art].

Iris van Herpen’s plastic skeleton dress represents her feeling of being reborn during a parachuting jump. (Cariole June 2011)

Today it’s women’s fashion, lifestyle goods and gadgets; tomorrow you mentioned wanting to expand into men’s and children’s wear. What’s next – with the recent success of your pop up, do you plan to open a physical shop eventually?

We had never entertained the idea of opening a permanent physical shop because looking at the likes of Net-a-Porter, staying online has been one of the reasons they’ve been able to maintain a successful international business model with an image extending to all corners of the world. Once you have a physical shop, you become localised to a certain place. But this pop-up has been a pleasant surprise, so I wouldn’t completely rule it out, but right now I’d rather focus on online.

Thank you.

Catch our main interview with Yen Kuok on Gafencu magazine’s March 2018 print issue coming out in newsstands on the 1st of March 2018!

Interview by: Julienne C. Raboca

Yen Kuok on the shocking burglary of Guiltless’ pop-up store (Part I)

Yen Kuok has been typecast all her life. Whether it‘s ‘family black sheep’ for leaving father Robert Kuok’s Kerry Properties, or ‘spoiled rich heiress’ during her school days, she has lived in the shadow of her family name since birth. Over the past few years, however, Yen has taken great strides to break free of the stereotypes that have been attached to her by carving out a name for herself in an industry she is passionate about: second-hand luxury.

In 2015, Yen founded Guiltless, an e-commerce site targeted towards the Asian high-end market allowing people to buy and consign pre-loved designer items. Last November, the brand launched a pop-up on Queen’s Road Central that was so successful they ran for two months instead of the normal two-week duration for standard pop-ups.

In a disconcerting spin on events, last December the shop was broken into by unidentified burglars who escaped in a white seven-seater. The three felons ran away with fifteen Hermes and YSL handbags worth a jaw-dropping HK$1.44 million (US$184,000).

We were able to catch up with a less than chirpy Yen just three days after the robbery. Although gutted by the blow to her business, she showed up for the photo shoot and kept her composure throughout the interview, sending rapid-fire messages to her team handling the crisis every time she had a few seconds’ break.

Scroll down for the first part of the exclusive online Q&A precluding our March 2018 print coverage of the interview and photo shoot with Yen Kuok.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Balad-0AbVB/?hl=en&taken-by=yenskiboo

Last December the Guiltless pop-up shop was broken into. That must have been a huge blow to you – can you tell us about that? What happened?

In the early morning a few minutes past 6 o’clock on December 5, the CCTV showed three robbers breaking in via the mall’s interior entrance to the store. They used a giant hammer and literally smashed through the glass. They knew exactly what they were looking for, going straight for the bag cabinet where we kept all our Birkins. They picked out fifteen bags and made a swift exit.

It was quite scary because they clearly knew what they were doing; the robbers didn’t go for the exotic bags because they knew it would arouse more suspicion if they tried re-selling it in the second-hand market as they’re more easily identified. It’s also more difficult to bring those exotic Birkins overseas because all these skins are being restricted just like furs… the thieves made sure not to stir up any suspicion on the Queen’s Road Central main entrance side. They did everything inside the mall. It was a shocking experience.

Sorry to hear that. What’s the equivalent value of what they got?

The estimate is up to HK1.5 million. It’s difficult to put a price on the Birkin bags, it’s like trying to put a tag on a limited edition stamp.

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I stopped by the pop-up just last Sunday, actually, and thought the branding was really well done.

We had only wanted to do two weeks in the beginning, actually. We didn’t want to compromise on a prime location as it was our first pop-up; we had to do it in a place that sets the standard. It had to be on the ground floor – none of those walk-up-the-stairs gallery space kind of nonsense – it had to be a main street location in Central. We had dabbled with the idea of doing it in Causeway Bay, but decided that for the first one we definitely had to do it in Central; we treated it like a flagship.

And did it work?

The results were really good, so we extended it for another month. The landlord was happy about that because it was driving a lot of traffic to the mall itself, us being right at the entrance. The window displays were interesting and fun – we had games inside the store. The management approached us to extend, and we said ‘Yes, looking at the financials it makes sense to do it.’ But in the end I don’t know if that’s a blessing or a curse since we got robbed!

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What were your demographics like? Who were your biggest fans?

A lot of the people who went to our pop-up have actually been the slightly older customers and tai tais who come in and buy like ten items at a time. They would say things like ‘Honestly I don’t really buy anything second-hand, but everything here looks so new, it’s wonderful.’

That’s the feedback that we get all the time, so much so that when we just opened the pop-up store, people didn’t realise it was second-hand and couldn’t figure out why we were so cheap. In the first week we had to print emergency store stickers saying ‘second-hand’ because unless you say it, people think it’s first-hand!

Stay tuned for the second part of this article, up next Sunday. Yen divulges tidbits from her personal life along with her fashion inspirations.

Interview by: Julienne C. Raboca

Alisan Fine Arts hosts HK’s no.1 nature photographer Stephen King’s first solo exhibition

Alisan Fine Arts is currently hosting Stephen King’s first solo photography exhibition, Rhythms in Nature, from 24 January to 2 March 2018. Stephen, a landscape photographer based in Hong Kong, explores the hidden patterns in nature through his photographs. With several published works and awards under his belt, he has been recently ranked # 3 in the world (and #1 in HK) in the World’s Top Ten Landscape Photographers 2017 competition held by One Eyeland. We caught up with the ace photographer at the opening of his exhibition at Alisan Fine Arts.

Your exhibition is named Rhythms in Nature. What is the significance of this name?

Patterns or rhythms in landscapes fascinate me. Sometimes, these patterns are obvious, at other times, hidden. As human beings, we respond emotionally to these patterns and rhythms. We can see these patterns in grand vista-type shots or in intimate shots like grouping of leaves or designs on a rock. These natural rhythms really resonate with me and I hope to convey the same feelings to my viewers.

Some of your photographs look like paintings. Are you influenced by Chinese painters and their art?

I do get this a lot. I think it’s because as a painter you can put elements on your canvas exactly as you wish. You don’t have any extraneous elements. Everything fits together harmoniously because you can control it. On the other hand, a photo can be chaotic or random.

For me, as a photographer, composition is very, very important. I take a lot of care to compose my photos. I brutally exclude things that don’t add to a picture. So when people see my photos, they compare them to paintings, because, like paintings, my photos don’t have extraneous elements.

To get to your question, I have been surrounded by Chinese paintings all my life because my mother owns an art gallery. My use of negative space and vertical composition is borrowed from Chinese paintings. But it’s not just Chinese paintings that influence me. I am also influenced by the works of Western painters like Georgia O’Keefe, Mark Rothko, etc. It’s not a conscious decision on my part, but unconsciously I feel drawn to the aesthetics of their paintings.

You have been honoured with several rewards and recognition. Is there any that is particularly close to your heart?

One of my photos was recently selected to be on the October cover of Landscape Photography Magazine. I have also won the Best Single Image award in the Earth & Climate category in Travel Photographer of the Year 2017, and have been ranked #3 in the World’s Top Ten Landscape Photographers 2017 competition held by One Eyeland. Last year I had a photo published in the Outdoor Photography Magazine in their top 150 photos. I have just been informed that they have selected two photos for the Top 150 list this year among 18,000 submissions. In fact, the two photos selected are displayed here at Alisan Fine Arts exhibition.

What are the challenges of taking landscape photos?

The thing about taking landscape photos is that it is very unpredictable. You can plan where you want to shoot, you can go to the best spot for taking photos, but the weather’s going to be different from what you planned. The light will be different from what you planned. So you need to be a bit spontaneous and work with what the landscape has on offer. This can be challenging, but this makes it so much fun as well. The same landscape looks completely different in different conditions. If there’s a storm coming, it could look dramatic, if you are shooting in direct sun, you can play with the patterns in the shadow. It’s all about your emotional response to the nature in front of you.

Perfecting the journey with TUMI’s Spring Summer 2018 collection

Premium travel and lifestyle brand TUMI has just launched its new collection for Spring/Summer 2018, inspired by the landscapes and creative energy of California. To celebrate the occasion, they set up a TUMI House, recreating a beautiful beach house in sunny California, right in the middle of the Atrium at the ifc mall from 18 to 21 January.

There’s something for every traveller in the new TUMI Spring/Summer 2018 assortment. We particularly loved the Alpha Bravo, Mariella and Merge collections.

We caught up with Victor Sanz, TUMI’s Creative Director, and Adam Hershman, GM of TUMI Mainland China, Hong Kong and Macau to talk more about the inspiration and creative process behind the collection. Check out TUMI’s Spring Summer 2018 collection as well in our video.