Category: Jewellery

Quirky jewellery: Ornamentation experimentation to the maximum

There’s something about spring that brings out our fun, funky sides. Keeping with our mood, there is a whole new range of quirky jewellery from the haute joaillerie houses across the world that promises to make a ‘oh-so-fun’ statement. Inspired by anything and everything, be it the outer space or the hidden recesses of Africa, these jewellery are unapologetically outré and out of this world. Check out our favourite quirky jewellery items this season.

Otherwise Engaged: Modern engagement rings for the New Age bride

Across sundry countries and cultures, if there’s one thing that’s almost as ubiquitous as marriage, it’s the gifting of an engagement ring to the bride-to be. It’s a tradition that can be traced back more than 2,000 years, with the ancient Romans slipping betrothal rings on to the fingers of their prospective spouses, more to ensure they weren’t gazumped by a passing legionnaire than out of any genuinely romantic impulse. In fact, it wasn’t until the 15th century that any true sentiment surfaced, when both English and French beaus began presenting their beloveds with ‘posie’ rings – gold bands adorned with amorous entreaties.

Engagement rings

Diamonds, however, made their debut later still. It wasn’t actually until well into the 20th century that a demure damsel could expect her dainty digit to be multi-carat-clad as proof positive of her intended’s intentions. Following De Beers’ famous 1947 slogan “Diamonds are Forever”, the celebrity engagement rings of that era – from Mia Farrow’s 9-carat pear-shaped diamond ring to Elizabeth Taylor’s 29.4-carat emerald-cut diamond solitaire – fuelled the fantasies of even the least avaricious brides-to-be and are now the stuff of legend.

Indeed, it has taken a further 70 years for ring-mounted rocks to become a little passé in the ostentatious wooing stakes. More contemporary couplings now require nothing less than the likes of halo settings, multi-stone effects and the finest gems fancily cut. Appropriately enough in the digital age, it’s now fair to say that every bride-to-be is definitely free to set her own ring tone.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Dark matter: Is black pearl a hidden treasure in the world of jewellery?

While white pearls are adored and admired the world over for their pristine beauty, their darker cousin, the black pearl, is a much rarer natural phenomenon. While mythology in the French Polynesia has it that a local god came down from the heavens to bestow the first black pearls on a favoured princess, the reality is far more prosaic.

black pearl

In fact, naturally-occurring black pearls start to grow just like their white counterparts. When an irritant – like sand particles – enters an oyster’s body, it coats it in a layer of calcium carbonate to ease of its discomfort. This then evolves into a pearl, when hardened. The black colour of the pearl, then, depends on the nature of oyster itself – if the oyster is a dark-lipped variety, the pearl forming near the black band takes after its dark hue.

However, what makes black pearls so extremely rare is that dark-lipped oysters themselves are only found in two regions – in French Polynesia, from where black Tahitian pearls are derived, and in Guyamas, Mexico, the place of origin of Sea of Cortez black pearls. Black Akoya and black freshwater pearls can also be found in some cases, but they are most often colour-treated to enhance their dark glow. Check out the gallery below to appreciate some of the black pearl high jewellery pieces from our favourite brands:

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay 
Photo credit: Sami Sarkis

Pure and Simple: Minimal jewellery, maximum effect

Let’s admit it, from time to time we all crave those big, chunky pieces of jewellery with large stones, high carats, bold designs, but in a practical sense, they are always not very comfortable to wear on a day-to-day basis. Not only are they heavy, they also look out of place with our everyday wardrobe. Enter, minimal jewellery which not only looks perfect with our daily wardrobe, but their petiteness also makes it effortless to wear them from nine to six.

minimal jewellery

But while choosing minimal jewellery, make sure the impact they have on your look is optimum, don’t go for a tiny earring that’ll get lost in your tresses or a pendant that’ll not stand out against your dress. Choose sensibly and let these minimal jewellery have a maximum effect on your style. To start off, check out our top picks here.

Jambicious: Cartier’s Jambi necklace displays cutting-edge diamond-cuttery

Diamond-doting auction-goers were no doubt delighted by the impressive array of jewels and jadeites that went under the hammer under the careful scrutiny of Phillips Hong Kong earlier this year. Overall, though, the most must-have of the many top trinkets on offer was a unique and spectacular 43.40-carat Briolette diamond and ruby gem-set Jambi necklace, paired with a set of Cartier pendant earrings, which went for an undeniably dazzling US$1.3 million (HK$10.7 million).

The Briolette style of diamond cutting is said to be one of the most time-honoured gem-honing techniques. Originally pioneered and perfected in India, its history stretches back more than 800 years. Essentially, the process results in the presentation of a finished pear- or drop-shaped diamond, covered in triangular facets across its entire surface. Uniquely, this approach allows light to enter the gem and be refracted from all sides, resulting in some of the most unforgettable of all precious stone settings. Cartier, a brand with a deep attachment to all things Far East, has named the necklace “Sumatra”, a knowing nod to the ancient name after which modern-day Indonesia takes its name.

Snake Charms: Why snake-themed jewellery finds favour through the ages?

While cats and dogs pretty much clean up on the online meme front, these doughty domestic favourites do noticeably less well on the feature jewellery front. In fact, it’s fair to say, in that particular arena, “four legs bad, no legs good”, with sultry serpents notably snaking out in front.

snake-themed jewellery
The bust of this ancient Pharaoh shows snake-themed jewellery on his crown

Pretty much since one bright Bronze Age beau fashioned the first romantic keepsake, snakes have been a recurrent fine jewellery motif on many of the world’s most cultured civilisations. In China, for instance, the snake symbolises reproduction – it doesn’t take too great a leap of the imagination to see why. It has similar resonances throughout India and Nepal, with Hindu god, Shiva, depicted as draping a snake around his neck, and believers worshipping the snake as symbol of desire and sexual passion. The more business-minded Romans, however, primarily associated the creature with wealth and prosperity.

Snake-themed jewellery
Snake-themed jewellery is draped around the statue of Hindu god Shiva

It was perhaps Ancient Egypt, however, that set the high watermark for snake veneration, with these legless lizards seen as wholly synonymous with royalty and even divinity. Indeed, a pharaoh was not deemed to be a legitimate ruler unless his crown incorporated the rearing gold cobra that was the mark of Wadjet, the goddess under whose protection Egypt thrived.

In times more contemporary, the serpent motif has been co-opted by the haute joaillerie world, with a number of high-end jewellers – notably Bulgari and Damiani – creating exotic, wholly snake-themed collections. This celebration of the reptile has even extended to Hong Kong, where Stéfère now offers a range of snake-themed jewellery, a homage to one of the most venomous members of the snake clan.

Check out our slideshow of the most viper-esque jewellery below.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Why platinum is the metal of choice for women who self-purchase jewellery?

Jewellery has traditionally always been the forte of the fairer sex. But over the years, perhaps because of women’s empowerment movements and a rise in their disposable incomes, more women are buying jewellery rather than being gifted it. According to a De Beers Report from 2017, in US alone, self-purchase of diamond jewellery by women reached 31% in 2016.

Cartier High Jewellery Collection platinum earrings

Another report based on the Platinum Usage & Attitude survey by Platinum Guild International (PGI), an organisation that promotes sale of platinum jewellery globally, reveals that 60% of Japanese women in their 40s bought jewellery for themselves in 2016, while in China, 37% of women like to buy jewellery for themselves, compared to only 30% of those who like to receive gifts from their partners.

Chaumet Josephine Aigrette Impériale earrings

A substantial number of these women seem to be leaning towards platinum, a metal that’s not only more expensive but also much rarer than gold. Since only 190 tons of platinum are mined annually, as opposed to 3,347 tons of gold, it may be that women associate platinum as something more exclusive and unique – something they have ‘earned’ for themselves.

Bulgari Griffe ring
Bulgari Griffe ring

Hisako Hankinson, CEO of PGI Japan, corroborates this view, saying: “Be it at office or home, or at important occasions, platinum’s everlasting lustre elegantly accentuates the wearer. Platinum is the precious metal of choice for women having their own styles, who are not swayed by trends or age.”

Panthere de Cartier ring

It is probably this very appeal of platinum that draws more and more women towards this precious metal, because perhaps the qualities of platinum are the very same qualities that the modern woman exemplifies: strong, unique and timeless.

Novel approach: Sarah Zhuang on her jewellery brand and beyond

Sarah Zhuang may have been born into a family of jewellers, but she has carved out her own name through her eponymous jewellery label. The Gafencu team sits with Hong Kong’s own home-grown jeweller to talk about her inspirations and aspirations.

Sarah Zhuang

With your family having been in the jewellery business for generations, were you always destined to follow suit?

Well, I studied journalism at university and hoped to get into news broadcasting. It was my sister, Fiona, who initially joined the family business, but she soon realised that it was too overwhelming to manage on her own. That was when I jumped in to help her. She focused on the business side of things, while I managed the PR and creative sides. We soon realised that we worked very well together. To be honest, though, before I actually started designing jewellery, I had no idea that was what I wanted to do. Once I got into the groove, however, I realised I had found my true calling.

You studied at both the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and Accademia Riaci in Florence. What impact did they have on your own approach to jewellery design?

What I learnt at GIA was very different from what I learnt in Accademia Riaci. GIA is very good for beginners, as its style is easy to pick up and they teach you a lot of the basic techniques. By contrast, Accademia Riaci teaches you the more traditional forms of jewellery-making.

Sarah Zhuang

What made you decide to launch your eponymous brand and make it distinct from Tak Fook, your mother’s established business?

Tak Fook is a very traditional Hong Kong brand and, when I took over my mum’s business, it was felt that there was a mismatch between my creations and the positioning of her brand. My pieces tended to appeal to a younger demographic and were a lot more playful. When customers came to Tak Fook and saw my jewellery, it didn’t quite fit with their expectations of the label. So we thought it’d be better to create a separate entity, one that was younger in its approach and that embodied a new design philosophy. That’s how, in 2017, Sarah Zhuang Jewellery came into being.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?

I am inspired by the multi-faceted nature of the modern woman. Something that especially influences me is the way that women adapt to the many distinctive roles they have to play in life. In essence, my brand celebrates womanhood in its entirety. Each one of my five collections depicts a particular aspect of the modern woman, which is why each one of them has a very different style.

Tell us about those different styles…

Well, I want every woman to be able to find a collection that she can truly relate to. In line with that, I have tried to portray a very different woman in each of my collections. Spread Your Wings, for instance, is a celebration of someone who’s ambitious and goal-driven, while Lady Rose is more suited to a woman who’s elegant and beautiful, rose-like in fact. Mix and Match is for those who are cool and down-to-earth, while Enchanted Pearl – which features only white pearls – symbolises someone who’s innocent and pure at heart. By contrast, Dancing Butterfly is dedicated to all the cheerful and happy souls.

Sarah Zhuang

Which collection do you see as reflecting your own personality?

The Mix and Match collection. For daily wear, I favour simple jewellery from that collection, as they tend to be petite and go with almost any outfit.

What new things can we expect from the brand this year?

We’ve been working on two new collections, both of which will launch this year. We will also be unveiling a range of men’s jewellery especially tailored to the Japanese market. We’re also continuing to work with Memorigin [a Hong Kong watch brand] on a new range of designer watches.

Sarah Zhuang

 With Sarah Zhuang Jewellery already well-established in Japan, China and the UK, are there any other territories you are looking to conquer?

We are definitely planning to target a number of US cities, as well as Paris and a few other key European markets. For me, every jewellery brand has to make its mark in the US. As it’s such a huge and competitive market, though, we wanted to build our brand strength before taking up that particular challenge.

Lastly, tell us something that people don’t really know about you…

Not too many people know this, but I write science fiction novels. I recently finished my second book, tentatively titled Parallel Dreams. I published my first science fiction novel, The End of Reincarnation, after I graduated. Since then, I haven’t really had time to focus on my writing as I have been so busy with my jewellery brand. In the end, it took me three years to finish this one, but now – at last – it’s finally done.

Thank you.

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 Interview by: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Photos: Neville Lee
Art direction: San Wong
Video: Kingsley Lau
Makeup: Margaret Wong
Jewellery: Sarah Zhuang Jewellery
Venue: Tai Fook Showroom

Indulge in flights of fancy with new bejewelled brooches by Mabros

Hong Kong’s homegrown jewellery brand Mabros has come a long way since 1949 when Lee Heng Group began importing quality diamonds to Hong kong as a diamond wholesaler. Since the group opened its first jewellery boutique in Central with a new brand name, Mabros, there’s been no looking back.

Over time, the Hong Kong-based jewellery house has become synonymous with exquisite timepieces and fine diamond jewellery crafted painstakingly by hand over weeks and even months. The result is a fine balance of design and craftsmanship. In its latest Bird Brooch collection, the haute joaillerie house has brought together an array of precious stones, from diamonds and sapphires to rubies and tsavorites to create a colourful canvas that would bring just the right touch of luxury to any attire. From quirky toucans to romantic love birds, there’s a Mabros for every occasion. Check out the collection here.

Red and gold jewellery: Fantastic festive finery for CNY

While in some cultures, the colour red may signify aggression, in China, red is the most auspicious colour of all. Especially during Chinese New Year, there’s an abundance of red everywhere, from red lanterns to red packets. Legend has it that, once upon a time, a vicious monster Nian would haunt villages during Chinese New Year, eating crops, cattle and even small children. Apparently, Nian was only afraid of two things: fire and the colour red. The beast was finally beaten weaponizing the colour red, and from then on, red has come to symbolise the good luck in Chinese culture. So what better time to flaunt your love for red than during the Chinese New Year. Check out our collection of premium red and gold jewellery to embrace good vibes not just during this auspicious period but for the whole year.