The Wild Side: Inventive and artistic, jewellers across the globe are taking the animalistic approach
From ancient gold jewellery to contemporary gems, we have been attempting to capture the beauty of the natural world in our art and ornaments for thousands of years. Animals have served as a source of inspiration for artists, who have discovered materials that may hold the key to their creation’s mystery in stunning stones and rare metals. Our understanding of our own natures is shaped by these projections, which allude to our ancestry and the transition from nature to culture.
The urge to interpret animals as symbols is related to our understanding of what it means to be human and this comprehension links historical works of art and societies. Animal representations served as allegories, artistic inspirations, or emblems of creation, supporting widely-held myths or beliefs. Through the use of wild animals as intermediates, these animal images help us to comprehend the interactions between humans and nature, as demonstrated by top jewellery houses like Cartier, Buccellati and Chopard.
Chopard bracelet
Boucheron ring
Tiffany & Co. earring
Boucheron bracelet
Buccellati brooch
Cartier necklace
Cartier ring
Tiffany & Co. bracelet
Tiffany & Co. earring
Cartier necklace
Boucheron ring
Buccellati brooch
Peri Projectors
Create the prettiest new addition to your jewellery collection using peridot.
The mineral olivine, which naturally has an olive-green colour, is what gives Peridot its gem-quality status; however, it has a distinctive lime-green hue that truly plays up the current dopamine-dressing trend. High-quality resources, which were only recently discovered in China but were originally discovered on an island in the Red Sea, have sparked a peridot-jewellery explosion.
Peridots were the height of fashion in the Victorian era and are said to banish nightmares and bring luck. They were known as the Evening Emerald by the ancient Romans, believed to glow in the dark by the early Egyptians and adored by King Edward VII.
Don’t let the stone’s lime-green colour deter you; modern jewellers have demonstrated how its acidic tones can be tastefully complemented with other stones, especially diamonds and pearls, as shown by Chaumet, Buccellati and Mikimoto, amongst many others.
Call of Ruby: Dubbed “The King of Coloured Stones”, rubies have been a long-time favourite of royalties and warriors alike.
As a symbol of their eminent social rank, royalty from several cultures all over the world likewise proudly acquired and wore rubies. Natural ruby gemstones are extremely rare and expensive, making them a sign of opulence and dominance. As rubies have long been revered as a stone of kings, monarchs and other members of the aristocracy in Europe and Asia have adorned themselves with ornate ruby crowns. The birthstone for July, known for its associations with knowledge and beauty, can range in colour from a deep, almost purple red to a pinkish red that some might argue is edging closer to being a pink sapphire. There are no wrong choices when it comes to selecting stunning ruby jewellery for yourself or your significant other, even though the colour may have an impact on the value. In the end, the most appropriate ruby for you is the one you are most drawn to.
From Classic to Contemporary: The Best Jewellery Brands in Hong Kong
Hong Kong is known for its bustling shopping scene and is a popular destination for those in search of high-quality jewellery. With a plethora of options available, it can be overwhelming to choose the right brand. In this article, we’ve compiled a list of the top jewellery brands in Hong Kong that are renowned for their exquisite designs, superior craftsmanship, and exceptional quality. Whether you’re in search of a statement piece or something more subtle, these brands have got you covered.
Qeelin
The backbone of Qeelin’s designs is deeply rooted in giving a contemporary twist to traditional symbols thus holding on to the Chinese heritage and also being in the likes of the modern consumers. For instance, one of Qeelin’s iconic collections is the Wulu which is significantly inspired by Wu Lu (or Wu Lou) which represents prosperity and positive vibes in Chinese culture. The brand is also known for its playful pieces of bijouterie like the Bo Bo Gang collection which has a diamond-embellished panda as the focal point.
Niessing
Marrying the Bauhaus philosophy of design with the concept of minimalism is this jewellery brand Niessing with a rich history spanning up to 150 years. Through these 15 decades, it has continuously stayed true to its craftsmanship by creating jewellery pieces like tension rings, as Niessing calls them Spannrings, that maintain the mark’s design DNA while also appealing to the modern crowd. Beyond this, Niessing is known for its unique range of colours, including about 15 shades of gold and its newest addition a rose gold one named Supla Grenadine, that have all been created through alloying. Such a diverse range of colours in combination with the many design options allows people to create bespoke ornates.
Described as vividly artistic in nature, Taiwanese jeweller Cindy Chao’s The Art Jewel has heavy influences from both Eastern and Western techniques. It is appreciated for its unique jewellery designs that are a result of its creative process that begins with a two-dimensional layout of the jewel which is followed by the lost-wax casting technique to form a three-dimensional sculpture thus resulting in the brand’s standout 3D jewelleries. This particular style of craftsmanship is also reflected in the brand’s latest collections – Black Label Masterpieces and White Label Collection – especially in one standout piece, the Cabochon Colombian emerald-centred Spring Cardamom Brooch.
Austy Lee Art Jewellery
Rooted in creating vintage-inspired jewels that also look edgy, Austy Lee Art Jewellery is a brand that focuses on creating unique pieces of jewellery that cater to fashionable people. As Austy Lee Jewellery precisely puts it, the designs from the brand are “psychedelic.” Moreover, with its founder having a strong connection with jade, the brand has many earrings, necklaces, rings, and more that feature jade gemstones in them. In fact, there is even a collection named Jade Dynasty that has jade as its main attraction.
As a recipient of the prestigious A’ Design Award and Competition, Kajal Naina is a jewellery brand that tries to narrate a story through every single ornament. The jewellery makers here pay attention to every single detail – every stone and every carving – so that the result is nothing but an enticing ornament that will easily catch people’s attention. As its founder explains, the purpose of these pieces of jewellery is not just to elevate a person’s beauty but also their spirit. Moreover, Kajal Naina is particularly known for its collection of pearl necklaces with zodiac symbols.
Pride Burning: Rounding up some of the most colourful pieces of jewellery for you to wear during Pride Month and beyond
Pride and fashion, in this case, jewellery, go hand-in-hand like no other. Pride month is a time to showcase self-expression and freedom and what better way to do that than with these latest collections from the top jewellery houses like Tiffany and Co., Cartier and Faberge. This year, many brands that specialize in jewellery and accessories came out with beautiful Pride collections that range from subtle and classy to fun and totally out there. Truly, there’s definitely something for everyone’s sense of style and there’s no better time to shop for rainbow jewellery that will give all outfits a nice pop of colour. Also included are gems which are blessed with one or two of the colours from the celebrated flag and icon. Above are some designers who are showing their pride this month and supporting LGBTQ+ communities. Celebrate Pride this month and all year long!
Jewel Identity: Lab-grown gems vs properly-provenanced stones as the divide in the diamond market grows
Recent interest in the proliferation of Lab-Grown Diamonds (LGDs) factories in India has left many diamond lovers wondering whether they could one day oust the natural rocks from the jewellery market. These man-made beauties display the same physical, chemical and optical characteristics as diamonds found deep in the earth. Put simply, are they here to stay?
Surprisingly, synthetic diamonds have been sparkling among us for decades. There are two ways to make LGDs: one is High-Pressure High Temperature (HPHT), involving a seed placed within pure graphite carbon and exposed to temperatures of about 1500°C; another is Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD), which involves putting a seed in a sealed container filled with carbon-rich gas and heating to 800°C. HPHT diamonds have been around since the 1960s, but the real game changer, according to Roi Sheinfeld, Managing Partner of diamond manufacturer M&B Group, has been the more recent introduction of CVD-made LGDs. “This is a much more efficient and cost-friendly process. Also, the size of the reactor in the HPHD process is the size of a room, the CBD reactor is the size of a table,” he says.
Questions of quality Of course, those interested in buying a diamond will naturally want to know whether the quality of LGDs can compare to those of natural diamonds. Sheinfeld affirms that, at the top of the scale, they are indistinguishable. “If you are taking a very high-quality growth and you are putting it next to a natural diamond, and both of them would be high-colour and high-clarity stones, the chance that me, as a professional diamond dealer and manufacturer, will notice if it is an LGD or a natural diamond is basically zero,” he says.
However, he suggests quality can vary from one factory to another and buyers will need to be careful. Trustworthy sources are essential when procuring diamonds.
He compared LGDs grown under professional and less expert hands: “There is a very wide spectrum of quality. I am not saying that the end product is not the same crystal or hardness level as a natural diamond. In terms of quality, usually, lowend growth you see the certificate will be F colour like a better quality LGD, but it will not be lucid as the better quality LGD diamond,” he says.
He then adds: ”A high-end growth of lab diamond will shine and sparkle exactly like a good quality natural diamond.”
Sheinfeld sees this embryonic industry from all angles as his company is heavily involved in both natural and LGDs. A big part of their business is rough diamond sourcing, polishing and manufacturing, including polishing very expensive and unique stones. In the LGD sector, they are one of the biggest contract holders with Diamond Foundry, a US-based factory that makes huge quantities of cultured diamonds.
Compare & contrast M&B Group is soon to open a retail outlet in Hong Kong where discerning shoppers can compare the two types of diamonds in the same space. “It is going to be the first shop that combines natural and lab-grown diamonds in the same space together. You can see LGDs and natural diamonds together and compare and hear everything that we have to say and decide for yourself.”
Price differential The million-dollar question is how the proliferation in the supply of LGDs is going to affect the pricing structure within the industry. Sheinfeld has noticed that some major clients who bought huge quantities of natural diamonds are now switching to LGDs for the less expensive section of the market.
“It is an amazing product; it opens a whole new market,” he says. “We have clients coming in and saying for the very small stone, like those in a tennis bracelet, we don’t want to spend money on a natural diamond because, at the end of the day, there is no value for those stones when they are already set in a tennis bracelet.”
According to Roi, a two-carat natural diamond that costs in a shop around US$30-32k will cost around US$4500-5000 for an LGD with the same specs. Fun jewellery items like tennis bracelets and eternity rings, once the stones are set within the jewellery, lose much of their resale value. “If we were to try to take all of the stones out, probably you are going to damage some of the stones, or you cannot resell those five points that you took out of the tennis bracelet. I think in this segment, a lot of the people that are buying natural would move to buy lab-grown.
He also notes that lower-grade natural diamonds usually come without certificates so this could be a further incentive to consider LGDs.
No resale value One of the main issues concerning LGDs is whether they hold value. On this issue, Sheinfeld is unequivocal. “It is very important to say that for the LGD there is no resale value whatsoever,” he declares, adding that this is the main advantage and disadvantage between the two products, as natural diamonds do usually hold some resale value.
He does not think this will change in the foreseeable future either. “Basically, you have endless production of something; I do not think it will ever be an investment per se.”
Luxury arousal Despite these considerations, the luxury sector has been dipping its toes into LGDs. Last year LVMH Luxury Ventures, an investment arm within French luxury conglomerate LVMH Group, announced they had joined a US$90 million investment round in Lusix, an Israeli LGD factory. Industry rumours suggest other big conglomerates are entering the field.
“You are going to see more and more high-end fashion conglomerates getting into the field for sure. It is definitely here to stay,” says Sheinfeld.
Man-made diamonds offer luxury houses certain advantages: “I think using LGDs gives better precision and better quality control for a big brand that wants to do a big line of jewellery. It is easier to do it with LGDs than with natural diamonds.”
According to Sheinfeld, this potentially could have two effects on market pricing: the LGDs will become accessible, but will also ramp up the prestige factor of certain lines made of natural diamonds as discerning consumers will understand the complexities of their manufacture.
“Investment-grade diamonds that are appreciating over time are usually very large and very well-cut fancy shapes of high colour and high clarity,” he says.
Profit or loss? Naresh Jain, CEO of Belgium-based Sanket BV, who is involved in fine jewellery, wonders whether labgrown diamonds can be profitable. “As production is increasing, the price for LGDs is getting lower and lower,” he says. “The value of LGD stock is depreciating at the end of each year due to surplus goods. I wonder how it can be a profitable business or an investment.”
“LGDs will be like silver [jewellery] or freshwater pearls. You need big volumes to sustain [their production], and on the other hand, a long-term high turnover is not easy. Falling prices and lesser acceptance will be the main hurdles,” he says.
Jain suggests industry players are trying to keep one foot in the LGD market, but nevertheless have no real confidence in their future. Despite this, he is certain that man-made diamonds will have a bearing on the price of their earthly counterparts in the long run.
Green Lit: Green stone-infused pieces of jewellery take over this month
The May birthstone, which is connected to the heart chakra, has long been thought to improve vision, bring clarity, offer protection and represent fortune. Emeralds have also been worn by royalty including Cleopatra and the final Inca ruler. They are also a red-carpet favourite of the A-list. They are, after all, a variety of the mineral beryl and get their beautiful green colour from trace amounts of chromium and vanadium, so they are really precious and one of a kind, containing tiny seams and fractures known as “Jardins”, or gardens, which makes them less robust than diamonds, and therefore an unusual choice for engagement rings. However today, emeralds have been a popular option for wedding proposals worldwide. And even for the ones not planning to get on one knee, these green gems sit perfectly in accessorising any outfit and add just the right amount of bling. From necklaces and earrings to rings and bracelets, it’s always a yes for anything emerald. Embark on a voyage to the Emerald City with pieces from Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Chopard.
Summer’s Glimmer: Bold, bright and beautiful jewellery for making a statement for the season
As the days get longer and warmer, it’s time to freshen up your look with some stunning spring and summer jewellery. Whether you’re looking for something fun and playful or elegant and sophisticated, there’s a piece of jewellery out there that’s perfect for you.
The season calls for statement earrings. Big, bold and colourful, these earrings are perfect for adding a touch of drama to your outfit. Think oversized hoops, tassels and geometric shapes in bright, summery hues. Why not try making waves by layering delicate necklaces of different lengths which can create a beautiful and feminine effect? You can mix and match different styles and textures to create a unique and personal look.
For those who prefer something more understated, delicate bracelets and rings are always in style. Look for dainty chains, bold designs and sparkling gemstones to add a touch of elegance to your outfit.
(Text: Peter Chan)
Aquasitions: All about the instant confidence Aquamarine pieces of jewellery bring
Said to have sublime soothing qualities, aquamarine supposedly not only helps ease anxiety but also bolsters self-belief and instils a sense of inner tranquillity. In classic lore, it was also believed to have a special association with the throat chakra, consequently having an impact on how we communicate, particularly with regard to boosting the confidence of those tasked with public speaking.
More latterly, fine examples of aquamarine – a relatively moderately priced and widely-available gemstone – have become a regular feature of the accessory collections of many leading jewellery brands, including Cartier, Gubelin and Chopard. Its popularity is partly down to the wide variety of blue hues it comes in, a range almost as broad and vivid as the ocean depths its name commemorates. Over the years, the jewel’s cool blues have wooed many admirers such as Elsie de Wolfe, Princess Diana and Meghan Markle.
Applauding Creations From Different Centuries – Auction Bids to Note
Regardless of the time of the creation – the 16th century or the 20th century – anything that is crafted with great precision will surely rack up more appreciation and ultimately fetch mind-blowing auction bids. Four such works are a necklace worn by Princess Diana, The Head of Saint John the Baptist presented to Salome painting, and two more.
Iconic Cross
Diana necklace surpasses bid estimate
An amethyst and diamond pendant once worn by the late Diana, Princess of Wales, fetched £163,800 (HK$1,534,906) at a Sotheby’s auction. Kim Kardashian outbid her rivals to scoop up the Attallah Cross. The cross was bought by Naim Attallah CBE, from Garrard in the 1980s and through his friendship with Princess Diana, he could loan it to her several times over a number of years to wear at events. It is understood that the Princess only ever wore the cross, and following her death, it was never seen in public again until the auction. The cross-shaped pendant – thought to be a one-off private commission by Garrard for one of their regular clients – is a bold and colourful piece set with square-cut amethysts and accented by circular-cut diamonds. The cross has a total diamond weight of approximately 5.25 carats and measures about 136 x 95mm. Head of jewellery at Sotheby’s London, Kristian Spofforth, said: “To some extent, this unusual pendant is symbolic of the princess’s growing self-assurance in her sartorial and jewellery choices, at that particular moment in her life.”
A controversial early masterpiece created by the renowned 16th century Flemish grandmaster, Peter Paul Rubens – Salome Presented With the Head of Saint John the Baptist – changed hands for an astonishing US$26.9m at auction during Sotheby’s Masters Week. Supposedly painted in 1609, it is regarded as one of a small group of masterpieces created by the artist immediately following his return from Italy in December 1608. The painting formed part of a truly grand white-glove sale of works from the fabled Fisch Davidson Collection – one of the most significant arrays of Baroque art ever to come to market. While many other fine items jostled for attention during the course of the sale, there was no doubt that this renowned example of Rubens’s singular artistic vision was the star attraction, with the winning bid of US$26.9m – the third highest price ever paid for one of the artist’s works at auction – merely confirming its significance. Christopher Apostle of Sotheby’s New York, said: “This Masters Week has been one of the strongest ever staged by Sotheby’s, both in terms of the record numbers pouring through our doors to peruse the lots on the show and the spirited bidding later seen in the saleroom.”
Bronze Award Rijksmuseum wins bidding battle
A bronze figure of an écorché man – an individual sculptured with his inner anatomy very much on show – created by Willem Danielsz Van Tetrode, a much-admired 16th-century sculptor, went for a fairly healthy US$1.5 million when recently auctioned in New York. A sculptor rightly renowned for dramatic compositions and skilled écorché, this particular work – perhaps unimaginatively known simply as A Bronze Figure of an Écorché Man – together with Hercules Pomarius and Striding Warrior, are generally viewed as his three most accomplished pieces. Perhaps boosting its appeal to collectors, however, the exaggerated body, long legs, abbreviated torso and visually dazzling musculature are quite unlike any of the sculptor’s other works. Particularly popular throughout much of the 17th century, this sculpture was said to have inspired many later artists, with its distinct colouring and contours recreated in a host of subsequent drawings and paintings, most famously in Voorhout’s A Young Scholar in his Study. The sculpture is now believed to have been acquired by the Rijksmuseum.
Muscle Memory Nostalgia for the days of the mighty muscle
To the surprise of many, a 1969 Dodge Hemi Daytona muscle car – typically a two-door sports coupé designed for high-performance driving – sold for a highly commendable US$1.43 million at Mecum Kissimmee, a specialist automobile auction event held recently in Florida. Perhaps adding to its value, the vehicle was previously owned by Kevin Greene, a former NFL Defensive Player of the Year, and David Spade, the well-known US TV and movie star. Boasting a 4-speed manual transmission, power steering and a 426/425 HP Hemi engine, its eventual sale price far outstripped that commanded by a similar model that went under the gavel in 2022. This may be at least partly because it is believed to be the lowest-mile, original engine four-speed Hemi Daytona still in existence. Remarkably, it has retained its value even though its first owner removed the original interior and arranged for all its body panels to be custom re-painted, while its factory wheels and tyres were put into storage. Although this Daytona model was only in production for one year, it is viewed as one of the most iconic vehicles in automotive history.
