Category: Jewellery

Dotty over Spots: Circle, circle, dot, dot – get set for your glamour shot

Since the dawn of time, people have associated the ubiquitous circle with objects of beauty, wonderment and perfection – a full moon, the human eye, the Olympic flag, the Yin and Yang symbol. Small wonder that this humble shape has inspired countless designers to create similarly timeless yet forward-thinking objects, especially in the world of haute joaillerie.

Running the gamut from rings to necklaces, Christian Dior’s new Rose Des Vents Collection is a celebration of the Normandy designer’s favourite symbol – a delicately encircled eight-point star. The Breastplaster, arguably highlighting this new collection, features a constellation of double-sided medallions.

On one side, monsieur Dior’s star (often referred to as “the traveller’s symbol”) is displayed. On the other, precious stones such as diamond, turquoise, malachite and mother-of-pearl have been carefully curated by Parisian jeweller Victoire de Castellane.

For the vivacious extrovert, Palmiero’s Bubble Collection is sure to appeal. With their bulbous and multi-faceted design, even the smallest items in the collection – such as the colourful 18-carat diamond rings – are sure to make a bold statement. Displaying shimmering and deeply saturated colours of marine and amber, the dotty designs are also spectacularly sea-inspired.

Watch lovers keen to inject a modicum of circular style into their accessories need look no further than Piaget’s new Couture Précieuse. Powered by the 56P quartz movement, this white gold wonder tells discrete time via a clean indexless dial. Where are the dots and spots? In a lattice of 176 brilliant-cut diamonds, all interlinked to form the watch’s cuff-like fastening.

Whether you prefer your circles prominently displayed or subtly referenced, the shape’s timelessness makes it suitable for any occasion.

Annie Tse on giving up her IT career to run one of HK’s finest jewellery giants

Annie Yau Tse is the chairman and chief executive officer of Tse Sui Luen Jewellery (TSL), one of Asia’s largest jewellers.

 You haven’t always worked in jewellery. What did you do early on in your career?

I studied computer engineering in college. I’m a very analytical and logical person, and I like math and science. After graduating, I worked in a software company for a few years in the States. Later, I moved back to Hong Kong and began working for Motorola, then for IBM as an IT consultant.

I enjoyed being part of the IT industry because it’s such an innovative environment. It exposed me to many new concepts and people. It’s quite different from jewellery, but I’m trying to incorporate the lessons I learnt from IT into my current role.

When you joined TSL in 2002, was it a big change for you?

Not too much. Although I had never worked in jewellery before, I got married to jewellery, so to speak. When I initially began dating my husband [Tommy Tse, son of TSL founder Tse Sui Luen], I spent a lot of time at TSL shops listening to him, talking to staff and learning how to do business.

By the time I joined the company, I already knew a lot about the trade. At that time I had been married six years, and my husband and I often talked about business at home. Even when I wasn’t with TSL, my husband liked to share his views with me and get my opinion on products as a consumer.

Was it your plan from the beginning to work together?

Not really. Originally we didn’t want to work together because we didn’t want to bring business back home. My husband told me that as a child he would see his parents arguing about business over the dining table. He wanted us to avoid that kind of conflict. Besides, we both enjoyed our own careers – me in IT and him in jewellery.

When did the turnaround happen?

I changed my mind when I saw him struggling. Like me, he studied in the States, and then worked for Johnson & Johnson. Being on the manufacturing side, he was used to a certain kind of technology and way of doing things. He was trained in material planning systems and wanted to introduce that expertise back into his family business. He was trying to implement those ideas – which were new here 30 years ago – but people around him were far from ready. They didn’t understand what he was trying to achieve.

Whenever he came home and aired those concerns, I thought, ‘How can I help him?’ In time, it occurred to me to offer my help, even though that meant risking future arguments.

Surprisingly, he was receptive. As Christians, we tried to discern what God wanted us to do. The more we prayed, the more at peace we felt about working together. After mulling it over for a couple months, I quit my job and joined TSL.

How do you navigate the road bumps of working together as husband and wife?

Of course we argue from time to time about the other’s way of doing things, but in the end we love each other so much. Love can help us overcome all problems.

I enjoy and treasure the experience because it lets me see the unity between myself and my husband. Even though we don’t take the same path to achieve something, we have the same destination.

We also try to avoid talking about business at home and focus on our children instead. If we do have arguments, they end in the conference room.

You’re the youngest member and one of two women on a board of seven. Is it challenging being in the minority?

I think it’s perfectly fine. Being in charge as a woman even has its advantages in a jewellery company. I can try on the jewellery and be a model for the brand! I am well respected by my husband, colleagues and friends, as well as the other directors when we’re meeting in the boardroom. I do, however, have privileges as the owner’s wife, and of course people have no choice but to respect me [laughs]. Kidding aside, so far I only see advantages, and it helps that I actually wear the product.

What advice do you have for other aspiring career women?

I think you just need to work wholeheartedly. I devote a lot of time to something I want to achieve and give 100 percent. If people around you see you putting in time and effort, you naturally gain respect. But if you take shortcuts and evade responsibility, then of course you lose credibility. It’s about accountability, responsibility and working at things with all your heart.

Are you grooming your children to take over TSL one day?

I wouldn’t force them to, but I really hope they will. I respect them as individuals, and if they have talent in certain areas, I wouldn’t force them to give that up. My eldest daughter’s dream is to be a medical doctor. She’s now studying biochemistry in the States, and wants to come back to help people. Of course, I hope she’ll ultimately come back to the family business, but if she’s determined to pursue her dream, I will be there to support her.

My younger daughter is talented in art and design, and I believe there might be an opportunity for her to work on TSL’s core products. We really need someone who is creative. Thankfully, she’s open to getting involved. My youngest child likes sports but is still too young to decide what he wants to do.

What does the future hold for the company?

I really want to bring TSL into a new era. Nowadays women are looking for practicality, even when choosing fine jewellery. In Hong Kong it’s too segmented – people look at fine jewellery as a valuable item that you need to spend a lot of money on. On the other hand, there are non-precious metals or stones that you can buy very cheaply. I want us to strike a balance and bring fine jewellery to the mass market in a real way.

We are also focusing on developing our business in China. In 2014 we started franchising in the mainland. That market has been our growth engine since the early 2000s, especially since Hong Kong has taken a hit in recent years. We would like to expand into Southeast Asia as well.

Thank you.

Text by: Julienne C. Raboca
Photos by: Neville Lee
Art Direction: San Wong
Hair & Makeup: Chris Yu @ Morphologique
Venue: Fantastic Suite & Kitchen at W Hotel

Diamond Daze: Stunning necklace unveiled by De GRISOGONO

Italian high jewellery atelier De GRISOGONO created some serious shockwaves when they unveiled the highly anticipated “The Art of De GRISOGONO” necklace at Christie’s Hong Kong.

Set in an elegant swirl of emeralds and diamonds, the necklace’s stunning centrepiece is a staggering 163.41-carat flawless D-colour emerald-cut white diamond.

Already gargantuan in size, the stone was cut down from a mind-bogglingly large 404.20-carat rough diamond mined by Nemesis International in Angola.

De GRISOGONO founder Fawaz Gruosi snuck in a second surprise reveal – an elegant diamond-studded black bracelet into which the large gem can also be socketed.

Gruosi shared, “In my entire 40 years in this business, I even imagined that I would have the chance to hold in my hand something so beyond beauty.”

The Art of De GRISOGONO necklace and bracelet are set to tour London, Dubai and New York before heading to Christie’s Geneva in November for auction. Keep your eyes peeled, there may be some records broken that day!

Text by: Tenzing Thondup 

Glitterati spotted at dazzling exhibition by Larry Jewelry and Marvella

Asia-based jewellery maison, Larry Jewelry, and French fine jewellery and watch brand, Marvella, recently came together to host a joint exhibition in which they displayed the choicest selection from their high jewellery and watch collections.

The collections of the two houses complemented each other in a harmonious way, as both brands are united by a common thread of skilled craftsmanship and elegant designs.

While Larry Jewelry showcased its dazzling diamond collection, Marvella displayed some unique watches from its Blanc de Blanc, Jardin and other collections.

A bunch of socialites turned up at the venue to show their support for the brands. Familiar faces included Real Ting, Ruby Lam, Michelle Chua, James Shing, Kirk Yip, Amanda Lui, among others.

Poetry in Precious Stones: Palmiero’s jewellery tells a unique story

Luca Palmiero, Palmiero’s executive vice president, was recently in Hong Kong to unveil a new collection of bespoke high jewellery exclusively available at Masterpiece by King Fook. Luca talked to us about how the family-run business set up by his father, Carlo Palmiero, has now become an international brand.

Tell us about the origins of Palmiero.

Palmiero Jewellery House was started by my father in our Italian hometown of Valenza in 1979. Over the years, we have become famous for our intricately designed and handcrafted jewellery, all made exclusively in Italy.  

 How does your Italian heritage influence your work?

Firstly, our hometown of Valenza has a rich history of boutique jewellers perfecting their craft that goes back to the 19th century. By 1950, it was well recognised as Italy’s high jewellery capitol. Palmiero’s designs encapsulate this devotion to artisanal craftsmanship.

Secondly, many of our pieces are inspired from quintessentially Italian themes. My father especially loves to draw from our vibrant art history and gorgeous landscapes.

 Why has Palmiero been so successful?

We never follow current trends; we always go our own way. When you look at the market now, it is very common to find pieces that are built to highlight one central precious gem. We do exactly the opposite, focusing on making the overall design into a piece of art. 

We also stay on the cutting edge of high jewellery. My father was a pioneer in utilising multicoloured stones to enhance his designs. He started this back in the ‘80s, and was hailed a visionary.

 Since then, the use of multi-tonal gems with intricate 3D designs in a Pavé setting has become a Palmiero signature.

 What else sets Palmiero apart from other high jewellery houses?

Our brand is positioned at the very high end luxury spectrum. It’s not targeted to the mass market, but rather a niche group of discerning jewellery enthusiasts looking for unique statement pieces to punctuate their well-developed collections.

With such an exclusive clientele, do you have any competitors?

Well, currently, I don’t think we have any direct competitors in the international market. A lot of the other high-end brands create luxury jewellery but releases many pieces per design that can be found at all their boutique stores worldwide.

On the other hand, Palmiero’s clients get a sense of exclusivity because many of our pieces are one-of-a-kind. Each Palmiero piece has a unique story behind it, and is inspired from unlikely sources, be it Haiku poems about the four seasons, or a chameleon that changes colours at will. When you wear a Palmiero, you are not only wearing a piece of jewellery, but also being a part of a unique narrative. That’s what sets us apart.

Thank you.

Interview: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Text: Tenzing Thondup

Cartier shines bright at the annual Emmy Awards

Any awards show is an occasion to dress your best and show off your bling. Cartier was on hand to help some TV personalities shine just a little bit brighter at the 69th Annual Emmy Awards.

Alexander Skarsgård, who won Outstanding Supporting Actor in a Limited Series or Movie for his role in Big Little Lies, was spotted with a vintage 1929 platinum and diamond brooch. His co-star Laura Dern picked up her Outstanding Supporting Actress award wearing a Panthère de Cartier ring studded with tsavorite garnets and onyx.

Other big names also showed their support for the jewellery house. White Collar star Matt Bomer was spotted with a diamond-accented 18-carat white gold Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch and Cartier Picot décor cufflinks.

Comedienne Tina Fey was decked out in Cartier High Jewellery diamond earrings, a Maillon Panthère bracelet and a sapphire and diamond topped platinum ring.

It was definitely a star-studded event where the stars shone bright and the jewels shone even brighter!

L’ÉCOLE: Educating Hong Kong on the precepts of jewellery arts

Hong Kong jewellery aficionados were in for a treat as the third edition of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts returned to The Qube in PMQ last week.

The School, which is supported by luxury jewellery brand Van Cleef & Arpels, held a series of workshops, talks and demonstrations that explored different facets of jewellery craftsmanship.

Guests were invited to try their hand at Savoir-Faire techniques and attempt Japanese urushi lacquer classes, or attend talks on ‘The Universe of Gemstones’ and ‘Art History of Jewelry.’

A selection of photography by up-and-coming local talents was also on display. The artists were selected by a panel of industry experts as part of L’ÉCOLE’s Legacy Program.

L’ÉCOLE President Maria Vallanet-Delholm succinctly summarised the pop-up school’s objectives, saying, “The inspiration behind the founding of L’ÉCOLE was to open up the inner world of jewellery to the public, provide a form of initiation for those really interested, and to share the passion of our professors and experts.”

Eternal knot: Chaumet’s Liens collection seals the bond between lovers

 

French high jewellery maison, Chaumet, recently hosted an exclusive private event for its VIP customers at its showroom at the Elements mall. In the event, Chaumet especially displayed the Liens de Chaumet collection to the assembled audience.

Essentially a simple design, Liens de Chaumet is Chaumet’s link between an illustrious past and a fashion-forward future.
The Liens collection inherits the rich heritage of the deep love between Emperor Napoleon and Queen Josephine, a love story that has been the inspiration behind so many of Chaumet’s collections.

The four jewellery ranges within the Liens collection – Liens Séduction, Liens Évidence, Liens D’Amour, Jeux de Liens – all take off from the idea of a loosely tied knot, symbolising the eternal bond between two lovers.

Set with diamonds, in rose or white gold, the sixteen fine jewellery pieces, be it rings or bracelets or ear studs, are the perfect gifts for a loved one. There is indeed a Lien for every occasion.

Gala Gems: What to wear to your next black-tie affair

A single strand of pearls might suffice for a stuffy banquet, but more opulent occasions call for jewellery that rises to the task. If you have a gala coming up and aren’t sure how to accessorise your gown, the latest high jewellery collections from top labels promise to provide ample inspiration.

Created in collaboration with Chinese designer Guo Pei, Chopard’s Silk Road Collection fuses Eastern elegance with European charm. One standout necklace features 105 carats worth of pear-shaped emeralds, surrounded by tourmalines and brilliant-cut diamonds. The contrast of the rich emerald green with the dazzle of the white diamonds is bound to make any ensemble pop.

 

 

Chaumet is also seeing green with its Pastorale Anglaise earrings. Launched as part of the brand’s Chaumet est une Fête Collection – an ode to extravagant celebrations – the dangle earrings are fashioned out of white and yellow gold, and set with emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds. The vibrant, geometric design is modelled after the Scottish tartan print.

 

 

Another soiree-inspired range – albeit Italian, not French – is Bulgari’s Festa collection. According to the designer, “Festas (parties) happen everywhere in Italy and are the essence of the Italian way of life.” What better way to celebrate than with pearls, sapphires and diamonds? The Festa delle Principesse necklace boasts three strands of pearls and has two bows on each side – a tribute to Italian Queen Margherita of Savoy, who loved wearing bows, the region’s symbol.

 

For something whimsical, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Le Secret Collection takes a page from mythical and magical stories. Its Secret des Amoureux clip – a bow-and-arrow-shaped medley of diamonds, three kinds of gold and coloured sapphires – pays homage to Cupid, the Roman god of love.
Whether you go with something dazzlingly bold or more demure, there’s no denying that these jewellery pieces put the joie – or joy – in haute joaillerie.

Chopard’s Ice Cubes just upped the cool quotient of minimalist jewellery

Minimalism in jewellery may seem like an oxymoron, but according to jewellery maisons, minimalist jewellery is very much in demand and on-trend because they can be paired with any ensemble effortlessly.
Chopard’s Ice Cube range of jewellery, part of the RIHANNA ♥ CHOPARD Joaillerie Collection, takes this idea of minimalism to a new degree of coolness.
The seed of this avant-garde collection was borne as early as 1999, inspired by the sharp, geometric perfection of ice cubes. Finally, with the collaboration with pop icon Rihanna in April this year, the idea came to fruition as the Ice Cube collection.
Featuring edgy cubes in gold, diamond and green ceramic, these simple yet stylish designs, can be worn solo or stacked up together as bracelets, anklets, necklaces, etc.
The jewellery in this collection is not only cool to look at, but is also part of Chopard’s really cool process of sourcing ‘Fairmined’ certified gold. Stylish design meets sustainable luxury! What could be cooler than that?