Meet the designer behind Philippe V, Hong Kong’s most rebellious brand

Philippe Vergez is co-founder of Philippe V, a Hong Kong-based jewellery, eyewear and accessories brand.

With its edgy style and rebellious motifs, the brand embraces ‘anarchist values.’

Items are available for both men and women, and the collection includes skull-shaped rings, rebellious t-shirts and studded sunglasses, to name but a few.

Vergez, originally from France, teamed up with long-time friend Thierry Halbroth to create the brand in Hong Kong.

In their own words: “Philippe V values individuality and encourages it through stylish rock’n’roll and rebellious icons, designed for the 21st century. Similar to a members-only club, the brand aims to unite like-minded individuals by giving them a sense of belonging and letting them express their nonconforming entity through historical iconography – like the skull or the fleur de lys.”

Gafencu met with Vergez at his Hung Hom studio to discuss his work and latest eyewear collection.  

The brand you previously designed for, Jee Vice, was quite popular among celebrities. Is Philippe V experiencing similar success among A-listers?

This brand is pretty new so we are working on product placement in movies, and some celebrities like Amber Heard are already wearing our products. Brad Pitt has just received his order.

In the past, the brand I was designing for, Jee Vice, was very popular in Hollywood. It was the most popular brand at that time so we were featured in a lot of movies, and a lot of stars were wearing our glasses, like Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Lopez, Rihanna, Anne Hathaway, Katherine Heigl, Amber Heard and many more.

We were the only brand of sunglasses that Anna Wintour wore, apart from Chanel. But that was another life, another brand. I’m starting a new story, but we are looking to do something similar to what we did in the past.

Your jewellery and eyewear designs often feature two symbols – the fleur de lys and skulls. What’s the significance of these symbols?

Our logo is the fleur de lys (lily flower), which has been in my family since the 13th century – not because of nobility or royalty or whatever. The story is even nicer than that.

My family came from a small village in the Pyrenees, the mountains between France and Spain, called Aspin en Lavedan. From that plateau you could see if someone was coming, maybe three hours before they physically arrived. So they warned the next valley, and from valley to valley everybody knew that someone was coming.

My last name is Vergez, and there were about 53 families named Vergez in that area, so to differentiate them they attached the name of the closest mountain, valley or river. Since my family was looking towards France, we were called Vergez-France, and since we were surveying the Kingdom of France and the lily was the kingdom’s symbol, that’s why I chose it as the company’s logo.

It’s also an important symbol worldwide because it’s the symbol of the holy trinity. The lily flower is to the Occident what the lotus is to the Orient.

As for the skull, I’ve always liked skulls but I wanted to make it different. The lily is a little different from a normal lis because the three petals are free; normally there’s a ring holding the three petals, but I wanted it to symbolise freedom. With the skull, I wanted it to have a modern twist, so the skull is multi-faceted. Skulls remind us of the past and the people who have left us and the lessons we learnt from them.

What type of client do you market your products towards?

We don’t market based on demographics. It’s more about a sense of belonging – people who like what we do and the values that we promote. We don’t really sell the product. We sell those values. I like to make a design that has a story behind it. I don’t make things just for people to buy. I design to touch people’s hearts.

Where are you from, and what brought you to Hong Kong?

I’m from a small city in the Basque country called Biarritz on the shore of the Atlantic Ocean and at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains. Nowadays, we’re not Spanish, we’re not French – we are Basque. That’s very much a strong identity for us, and it’s part of my heritage. It’s a very nice city with beautiful waves. It’s like a European California, and it’s a surf city.

After the Jee Vice adventure, I lived in the US for some time, then came back to France before moving to Hong Kong to develop the design centre of a French company. I worked shortly after that for a Danish fashion brand and soon decided to launch my own venture together with long-time friend Thierry Halbroth. I worked three years on the development and design, and Thierry supported the efforts and wrote the story and marketing strategy.

We could have based the brand in France but the economy there is pretty dramatic at the moment. The French tax and social system makes it difficult to run a business and launch a brand, It is easier to make things happen in Hong Kong. And the second reason is that I like it here – except in the summer! Too hot and humid.

What are some of the highlights of your newest collection of eyewear and sunglasses?

Apart from the design, the highlights would be the fit and the quality – both the quality of the manufacturing and the quality of the lenses that are developed together with Essilor, which is the number one company in the world in terms of optical quality.

And once again, I don’t design to make a product. I design for people. I want people to feel good, look good and take pride in wearing the product. When they try these sunglasses, they say, ‘Wow, it fits well. It’s light and it’s comfortable.’ That really makes a difference.

For more information on Philippe V, visit www.philippev.com

Text Emily Petsko

Lively Affair: Anything but off the cuff

POTW_LorraineSchwartz_effFew events on the Hollywood calendar get more coverage than the Golden Globes. The 2017 extravaganza was no different, particularly when actress Blake Lively arrived and stole the show in a svelte Atelier Versace gown and a dazzling set of emerald green Lorraine Schwartz cuffs. The cuffs – set in gold and adorned with brilliant-cut white diamonds – totalled 300 carats, with each emerald weighing in at a staggering 150 carats. The impossible-to-miss bracelets were the standout piece of Lively’s accessories, although the matching diamond earrings, also by the US-founded jewellery designer, rounded off the red-carpet ensemble with a touch of panache. The total cost of the starlet’s jewels was US$7 million (HK$54.3 million).

Blake_Lively_

Schwartz was also the brand of choice for other actresses during the award show, including Bollywood siren Priyanka Chopra and Olivia Culpo. Other fans of the New York-based jewellery house are Beyoncé, Heidi Klum and Pharrell Williams, who have all donned various exquisite pieces in the past. Despite the hefty price tag, Lively’s look was unable to wrest bragging rights from actress Carrie Underwood, who attended the 2013 Grammys wearing a Jonathan Arndt diamond necklace. Comprising of 381 carats of diamonds, it was priced at an ice cool US$31 million.

Female entrepreneurs attend Maret Fine Jewelry event

A VIP event was held in Kowloon recently, hosted by luxury design house Maret Fine Jewelry. A total of 24 female entrepreneurs from the Golden Bauhinia Association and guests perused the glittering collections. Ten percent of the proceeds from sales went to the Golden Bauhinia Women Entrepreneurship Charity Foundation.

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Boucheron takes guests on journey through its heritage at exhibition

Luxury jewellery company Boucheron hosted an exhibition recently to showcase its high jewellery collections and to take visitors through the history of the maison.

The exclusive pop-up exhibition in Sheung Wan was divided into four rooms.

The first room focused on the heritage of Boucheron, from its first store at Place Vendôme, Paris, in 1893 to the unveiling of its Cape of Light High Jewelry piece in 2016.

The second room featured products centred around its Nature Triomphante – nature’s triumph over the earth – theme. The third room featured Serpent Bohème, an icon of the Maison since 1968.

The final room was dedicated to Quatre, a modern icon of the maison, created in 2004.

Noah’s Ark and Jewellery: Gafencu speaks to Van Cleef & Arpels President Nicolas Bos

Fans of Van Cleef & Arpels now have the opportunity to get an up-close look at one of the jeweller’s most fantastical collections yet. Inspired by the Biblical story of Noah’s Ark, the collection – now on display in Admiralty – features more than 40 pairs of animals in brooch form, including monkeys, swans, butterflies, kangaroos and exotic birds. There’s even a unicorn and a phoenix, bringing a touch of the whimsical to such a timeless tale.

As visitors enter the darkened room, they are met with a fully immersive experience. Claps of thunder and the sound of rain fill the room, and the occasional flash of lightning adds an exciting touch. The exhibit was designed by Robert Wilson, an American theatre and visual artist who is renowned for his creative use of light. The installation was first presented in Paris last September.

Gafencu spoke to Van Cleef & Arpels CEO and President Nicolas Bos, who was in Hong Kong for the exhibit.   

You started out as a marketing director for Van Cleef & Arpels in 2000. How did you get to that position?

It was a bit by accident to be honest. I started working for the Richemont Group at the Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art right after school.

I always had a passion for art and creativity so I was happy to work in an environment that combined art with commercial and business aspects. When Richemont acquired Van Cleef & Arpels, the president, my former boss Isabelle Guichot, was appointed and she asked me to join.

Interestingly, I wasn’t asked to join because of my knowledge of jewellery, but because I’d always been in an environment with creative people trying to organise projects and make things possible. That was pretty much my role at the Cartier foundation.

My role as marketing director was more of a title than anything because there was no marketing department before I joined. We don’t do things according to market research or trends. It is primarily what we want to do in house. The purpose of the department, and the role I filled at that time, was to make sure Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations were turned into projects and collections for the stores. My role was more to organise the whole creative process and move it forward.

In 2009 you were promoted to vice president, while keeping your position as creative director. How did you balance two very different roles?

It was quite organic. The company is quite small so I was just working with a different process.  I moved to New York to take care of the American subsidiary while keeping my creative role. I moved back four years ago to take over as president.

Now you are president and CEO. What’s changed at Van Cleef & Arpels under your leadership?

I don’t think much has changed. It is about continuity. I’m not the type of manager who starts a revolution and makes big changes.

I’ve been at the company a long time and continuity is important to brands like ours. Van Cleef & Arpels has been building an identity, signature style and level of expertise for many years. I’m not the sort of guy to change the strategy and retail policy. Creation and creativity are still at the centre of everything.

The only change is I don’t have anyone to blame now. The comfort of blaming another person if something isn’t working has gone, which is actually quite nice.

How would you describe your management style?

It’s very collaborative. I rely a lot on my teams. I try to strengthen the culture among the teams at all levels. I’m not the sort of person who asks designers or collaborators every week what they’re doing or how they’re doing.

There are some projects I run with them directly and then I expect them to understand and replicate it by themselves.

I don’t like when people say, ‘It is going to be like this because this is what I like or don’t like.’ I always try to explain why I’ve made a decision and it isn’t always a matter of personal taste. It is sometimes to do with tradition or a commercial aspect. The process is a learning curve for everyone.

How does Van Cleef & Arpels remain true to its heritage while at the same time keeping up with ever-changing demands?

The evolution of the market, the economy and clientele don’t influence the identity, design or craftsmanship of Van Cleef & Arpels. To make specific collections for a market or react to a downturn or an upturn in the market is very dangerous for brand identity.

Speed of change today is so fast that there is no way you can follow what’s happening.

The whole process in making a collection takes about three years and opening a store also takes years so it’s impossible to react to trends that happen over a couple of months. It’s better to stay who you are and then explain and express your identity by using the evolution of the market.  For example, there are new ways to tell stories and bring information to clients now that didn’t exist 10 years ago. So we stay true to today’s world but the information we pass through these new mediums hasn’t changed.

Is the market in Hong Kong different to the West? If so, how?

Originally, the market wasn’t that different. We are a brand that appeals to a type of customer who knows what jewellery they like, which means we have a consistent type of clientele. Hong Kong is very similar to markets in New York and London with the types of jewellery people like.

However, the level of tourism to Hong Kong over the last 10 years has changed the retail landscape.

A few years ago in Hong Kong was the first and only time we had to organise a line outside one of our stores.  For a few years it was an unusual situation when tourists came to Hong Kong with such an appetite for luxury goods. This was something we had never seen anywhere before.

It is quieter now here which is closer to our identity.

The exhibit, called L’Arche de Noé racontée par Van Cleef & Arpels (Noah’s Ark told by Van Cleef & Arpels), will be on display from now until 26 March at Asia Society Hong Kong Center, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty. It is free and open to the public.

For more information or to book a visit between the hours of 12pm and 8pm, visit www.vcaarchedenoe.hk.

Text: Andrew Scott

Additional information: Emily Petsko

Minimalist designs, Renaissance flair predicted for 2018 jewellery

Those looking to get a jump on next year’s jewellery trends need look no further than the ‘Forecast 2018+’ seminar held recently as part of the 34th Hong Kong International Jewellery Fair.

Paola De Luca, creative director and forecaster of Trendvision Jewellery and Forecasting, said the science of predicting jewellery trends is a little like stock broking. She predicts that simplistic, sustainable designs will be popular next year, and will be seen in the form of geometric patterns, enamelled surfaces, coloured inlays and retro 70s-inspired diamond chains.

“One such jewellery trend is lightweight and silhouette designs which are popular around the world, as well as in China,” De Luca says.

“When it comes to the modern consumer, less is more. Minimalism has become very popular nowadays among people who lead a busy lifestyle and in turn, we forecast that this will give rise to an evolution in jewellery design which reflects people’s daily lifestyles.”

Another predicted trend is Renaissance-inspired jewellery, which could be seen in the form of bold colours and symbols such as crosses, amulets, talismans and ‘lucky’ numbers. A futuristic-inspired trend is also expected to give way to electric colours and materials including nano ceramics and physical vapor deposition (PVD) coatings. High-tech jewellery will likely be an ongoing trend, as evidenced by the rise in popularity of 3D printers.

Testament to that is the fact that the best-in-show winner of the Jewellery Show’s Design Excellence Awards was a Japanese designer who created her necklace using 3D technology. Natsumi Odate designed the Rhythm necklace to perfectly replicate the form and shape of wild grape leafs. Realistic leaves are contrasted with abstract-shaped leaves, giving the piece a unique edge.

The annual International Jewellery Show, organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, is an occasion to showcase some of the finest craftsmanship and most innovative designs in the industry. More than 52,000 visitors attended the show this year.

Chopard displays its ‘Queen of the Kalahari’ jewellery collection in Hong Kong

Chopard displayed its ‘Queen of the Kalahari’ jewellery collection in Hong Kong recently. The collection showcases 23 absolutely pure diamonds including 5 weighing over 20 carats, all cut from one single 342-carat diamond.

The Queen of Kalahari, a D-colour rough of flawless clarity grade, was recovered from the Karowe Mine in Botswana.

The centrepiece of the collection is The Garden of Kalahari necklace, which “testifies to the ingenuity and the playful spirit governing Chopard design,” according to the jeweller.

Guests at the event also enjoyed a screening of a film about the story of the 342-carat diamond.

The event was held at Chopard’s IFC boutique.

PHOTOS: Stars sizzle at the Oscars

This year’s Oscars will go down in history for all the wrong reasons after actors Warren Beatty and Faye Dunaway awarded the Best Picture prize to the wrong movie.

The producers of La La Land were in the middle of their acceptance speech at the Dolby Theatre, Los Angeles, when the error was spotted and the award was eventually handed to Moonlight.

Monumental mix-ups aside, Hollywood’s best and brightest once again wowed the crowds with their outfits.

Check out our slideshow to see some of the best-dressed stars from this year’s Oscars.

Winners:

Best Picture: Moonlight

Actor: Casey Affleck, Manchester by the Sea

Actress: Emma Stone, La La Land

Supporting Actor: Mahershala Ali, Moonlight

Supporting Actress: Viola Davis, Fences

Animated Feature: Zootopia

British jeweller Annoushka opens flagship Hong Kong store

Few people know that renowned jewellery maker Annoushka Ducas designed her first piece of jewellery – her very own engagement ring – while living in Hong Kong in the late 1980s. It was here that she discovered her passion for the fine art of haute joaillerie, which ultimately inspired her to create her own brand, the eponymous Annoushka, in 2009.

So it is only fitting that the jewellery designer has just opened her first boutique in Hong Kong. Situated in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Central, the flagship boutique is also Annoushka’s first location in Asia.

To mark the special occasion, Annoushka released an exclusive pair of Jade Flamenco Earrings in 18-carat white gold with diamonds. The fan shape of the earrings mirrors the hotel’s logo, and was also inspired by the sensuality and movement of the Flamenco dance.

Ducas was awarded the prestigious Member of the British Empire medal (MBE) in 2012 for her contributions to the jewellery industry.

Her pieces have been worn by a myriad of celebrities, including Gwyneth Paltrow, Adele, Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez and Gigi Hadid. Even the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, and the Queen of Jordan, Rania Al-Abdullah, have been spotted wearing bespoke pieces by Annoushka.

Bollywood star Priyanka Chopra unveiled as Nirav Modi’s brand ambassador

Priyanka Chopra

Nirav Modi is well-known for its jewellery, but the brand is about to become even more popular after teaming up with a Bollywood starlet.

The high-end jeweller has teamed up with Priyanka Chopra, who will be their new brand ambassador.

Chopra is undoubtedly one of the biggest names in Bollywood and she also won the coveted Miss World title back in 2010. Furthermore, many people will know her from her role as Alex Parrish on the TV show Quantico, which airs on ABC.

Chopra’s appointment as Nirav Modi’s global brand ambassador comes after the company launched a new campaign this month, titled ”‘Say Yes, Forever”, to celebrate their solitaire diamond engagement ring.

“My association with Nirav Modi is like a meeting of minds in many ways,” the 34-year-old Bollywood sensation said.  “We are both fiercely proud of our heritage and are united by the idea of bringing a modern India to the global forefront. His jewels are one-of-a-kind and effortless, with an understated elegance.

“I have worn the brand on many occasions and have always been impressed with the exquisite designs, finesse, clarity and femininity of the jewels. I’m looking forward to a wonderful association.”

The company’s founder and creative director, Nirav Modi, added: “Priyanka Chopra embodies all the symbols of modern India while paving her own path, which also represents the ethos of our brand. She strives to not only achieve, but also to master the unexpected. She is unconventional and dazzles her audience with her unique style and there is perfection in every aspect of her work. An inspirational icon, she shares a distinct spirit similar to Nirav Modi – taking Indian excellence to the international stage.”