Bavaria Euphoria: Visitors come here for the beer – but also a countryside of fairy-tale castles and folksy festivals

The southern German state of Bavaria is so full of charm and beguiling beauty that it has been known to stimulate feelings of envy in the enchanted visitor. There are castles galore and the amazing Alps to behold, as well as the cultural melting pot of Munich and a host of medieval towns and villages that flaunt their folksy credentials in this prosperous region of Europe’s richest country. Time and tradition seem to have stood still at the plethora of festivals running from spring to autumn, where the men wear leather breeches and the women parade around in intricately embroidered dresses and aprons.

Bavaria, the largest of the states within the Federal Republic of Germany, has always had a distinct identity. The capital, Munich, is famous for its Oktoberfest, which runs from late September to early October and lures hordes of hedonists eager to indulge in the pleasures contained within raucous beer tents run by traditional breweries. Held in Theresienwiese in the centre of the city and dating back more than 200 years, this is the largest beer festival in the world and attracts millions of visitors – many joining in the hearty German spirit by donning the aforementioned lederhosen and dirndl.

Brewing pleasure

Indeed, beer gardens and beer halls are commonplace throughout Bavaria and the many local breweries are said to produce some of the world’s finest beers. These brews must adhere to strict quality and purity standards and be composed of water, hops and barley – the so-called Reinheitsgebot formula.

Munich itself houses some outstanding historic beer halls and taverns, and a visit to Hofbräuhaus is a must. Considered the most famous beer hall in the world, it has a darker side as the stage for the first Nazi Party event in 1920, but today it remains the definitive Munich pub for swaying tourists soaking up the atmosphere; the resident oompah band keeps the joyous and convivial mood flowing along with the beers.

The expansive beer gardens are marginally less crowded than the beer halls. Chinesischer Turm located within the English Garden has about 7,000 seats and an international clientele gathering for drinks in sight of the Chinese pagoda that counts as one of the city’s most notable landmarks. In Munich’s largest beer garden, Hirschgarten, Augustiner Edelstoff – first brewed by Augustinian monks in 1328 and regarded as the champagne of Bavarian beers – is served on tap from a huge wooden barrel. Other notable Bavarian beers are Lowenbräu, which dates to the 14th century and is made in Munich’s largest brewery, and Hacker- Pschorr, first mentioned in 1417.

Pigging out

As for culinary delights, the most famous of the Bavarian dishes is undoubtedly the wurst, or the sausage. They are popular across the state, but locals differ on the best time of day to enjoy them. Munich prefers its veal sausages (or weisswurst) for breakfast; Nuremberg to the north likes miniature bratwurst at lunch; and Regensburg, in between the two on the Danube river, loves the simple sausage for dinner.

Much Bavarian cuisine has its roots in Bohemian Austrian cuisine, such as knödel (dumplings), mehlspeisen (pastries) and schnitzel. Roast pork (the succulent schweinebraten) is also a popular dish and often the meat is continuously basted with dark beer while it is roasting, so the rind develops into crispy crackling. A beer-garden favourite is “Considered the most famous beer hall in the world, Hofbräuhaus … remains the definitive Munich pub for swaying tourists soaking up the atmosphere” obatzda, a spreadable cheese made from Camembert, butter, quark, paprika and onion. Of course, Bavaria is also noted for its gorgeous desserts, most notably the delightful apfelstrudel (apple strudel); others include elderflower pancakes and steamed dumplings.

Munich boasts a plethora of cafes, bars and bistros and some outstanding restaurants. The Landersdorfer & Innerhofer has a delightful Austrian-inspired menu, while Matsuhisa Munich, sitting inside the Mandarin Oriental, offers fine dining in a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisines. Aside from the Mandarin Oriental, the city has a slew of fantastic luxury hotels.

City of culture

Central Munich also embraces an outstanding museum quarter hosting Bavaria’s top art museums and other world-class attractions. There are superb science exhibits and some outstanding private collections – plenty to keep the enthusiast occupied. Like some historic areas of the city, many of the museums that were bombed during the Second World War have been painstakingly reconstructed or redeveloped. Further afield, in the north of the city lies the bowl-shaped BMW Museum, a delight for car and motorbike fans. The city is also a shopper’s haven; Residenzstraße is where the leading luxury brands are situated.

There is also magnificent theatre, concert and opera in Munich. The famed Munich Philharmonic will delight classical music lovers, while the Bavarian State Opera draws half a million visitors a year for more than 400 performances annually. An intimate and recently reconstructed historic theatre – the Staatstheater am Gärtnerplatz – hosts operas, operettas and musicals.

Land of tradition

Munich is ideally situated to explore wider Bavaria. The land is full of traditions which are played out throughout the year and the calendar is filled with picturesque rituals and spectacles. For instance, on the first Sunday in November there are processions on horseback or in painted carts throughout Bavaria in honour of St Leonard, the patron saint of horses.

The German National Tourist Board recently revealed the Top 100 tourist destinations and many Bavarian destinations figure prominently, including Rothenburg, which achieved fourth spot and is renowned for its fantastic medieval architecture. Situated in northern Bavaria, this magical town is worth visiting.

King of the castles

Another must-see is Neuschwanstein Castle (sixth on the above list) in the foothills of the Alps, and a day trip from Munich to Füssen – which is about six kilometres from the castle – is recommended. Visits are only possible as part of a guided tour. Commissioned by oddball king Ludwig II as a homage to composer Richard Wagner, this fairy-tale castle is one of the most popular in Europe and has a mystical, romantic air nestled in a forest of fir and pine; it is breathtaking in the early morning sunrise. Ludwig himself kept an eye on construction from nearby Hohenschwangau, a neo-Gothic building where he grew up. Not far away, the Museum of Bavarian Kings on the shores of the scenic Alpsee Lake tells the story of the Wittelsbach family dynasty and their 700-year tenancy of the long-abolished Bavarian throne.

There are numerous ancient monasteries and world-famous churches within easy reach of Munich, including Wieskirche, a Unesco World Heritage Site, which is noted for its magnificent rococo interior.

See sights

The many lakes in southern Bavaria, formed by huge glaciers that melted countless centuries ago, attract water sports enthusiasts, swimmers and other outdoor activities. Chiemsee, also known as the Bavarian Sea, offers fantastic yachting opportunities.

Well worth a visit is Starnberger See, a magnificent lake surrounded by several palaces, including Berg, the summer house of the Wittelbachs. It was near here that Ludwig II died in mysterious circumstances – a cross a few metres from the shore marks the tragic scene.

Alpine heaven

Bavaria may only contain a small slither of the Alps, but the landscapes are dramatic, and Germany’s highest mountain, Zugspitze, can be easily reached by mountain railway and cable car.

The observation platform on the top of the mountain has wonderful vistas that reach out as far as the Italian Dolomites on a clear day. The terrain is perfect for skiing in the winter, and there are countless cable cars offering access to superb ski runs.

Heritage Pilgrimage: Restored and ordinarily repurposed, Hong Kong’s remaining old buildings prompt trips down memory lane

In Hong Kong, it is not uncommon to demolish buildings that are only 30 years old (or younger) in order to make room for dazzling new office towers or public housing blocks. However, a new trend has evolved – turning grand buildings constructed during the 150 years of British colonial rule into hip places to dine, stay, and oddly enough, take in some culture. Escaping the fate of countless others that were destroyed, some historic buildings have survived to the present day and are prospering with a new life and purpose. While Hong Kong is famous for its contemporary skyscrapers, the city has more to offer.

Privately owned old buildings, on the other hand, might be difficult to preserve since owners may be able to request their demolition or redevelopment regardless of their historical legacy. Unless the property is declared a monument, the owner has the right to demolish it even if it is a graded building or demonstrates exceptional value. The government typically stays out of legal disputes between conservationists who want to preserve Hong Kong’s heritage and owners who can make money by replacing old with new. As a result, protecting these structures requires the help of the public who must stand up to stop heritage buildings from coming down.

Successful preservation projects are those that match the neighbourhood, do not cause an undue disturbance, and help society learn more about the past. The onus is on the government, the courts and the community to act more responsibly, recognise historic structures as a form of publicly owned treasure and take steps to prevent them from being hijacked by developers. We stop by seven restored buildings whose legacies can still be appreciated today.

1881 Heritage

The former Marine Police Headquarters that stood atop a hillock in the centre of Tsim Sha Tsui from 1884 to 1996 has been revitalised and reincorporated into the modern urban fabric of the neighbourhood. After considerable restoration and conservation work, a cultural and shopping landmark called 1881 Heritage, was created. Opened in 2019, it is home to upscale stores and restaurants, trendy bars, a heritage hotel and an exhibition hall where visitors can learn about the site’s history.

Blue House

A historic group of structures distinguished by their vivid colour has withstood the test of time. One cannot miss the Blue House, a four-house, four-storey balcony-type tenement block with a blend of Chinese and Western architectural elements situated in Stone Nullah Lane in the city’s Wan Chai neighbourhood. Built in 1922, this grade-one historic structure is an eye-catching example of a tong lau, or tenement building, commonly constructed in southern China and Southeast Asia in the late 19th century. The stunning blue exterior inspiring its moniker, the Blue House has come to represent a relatively uncommon Hong Kong success story in urban conservation. It received a Unesco Asia-Pacific Award of Excellence for Cultural Heritage Conservation in 2017.

Court of Final Appeal

One of Central’s most recognisable structures provides a neo-classical visual contrast amid a sea of high-rises. Constructed in 1912, the Court of Final Appeal Building – also known as the Old Supreme Court Building – has been designated as a monument. The two-storey granite structure supported by ionic columns is also noted for the 2.7-metre-tall, blindfolded statue of Themis, the Greek goddess of justice and law, that surmounts its central pediment; below is a semi-circular window topped by a carving of the British Royal Coat of Arms. One may take a tour of the premises and watch court proceedings.

Lui Seng Chun

This magnificent corner tong lau shophouse, designed by architect W.H. Bourne, once housed a bone-setting business and the Lui family’s private dwelling. It is now a Declared Monument. Its architecture is characteristic of the period’s hybrid Chinese-Western design, with large verandahs that made it possible to live indoors and outside in the absence of air conditioning. Even though all of its neighboring structures were renovated, the home managed to endure. In 2012, it underwent restoration and was turned into a Chinese medical center. Don’t overlook the exhibition and herbal tea shop on the ground floor.

Tai Kwun

As one of the most expensive real-estate markets in the world, Hong Kong doesn’t waste any space – which is why finding a location like the Tai Kwun Centre for Heritage and Arts is so refreshing. This historic heritage regeneration project, which officially opened in 2018 along Hollywood Road in Central, boasts a sizable courtyard encircled by 16 buildings from the colonial era and lush trees set over six acres. The following year it won the Unesco Award of Excellence for Cultural Heritage Conservation. A unicorn in Hong Kong, it is a free, open and laid-back area that more than lives up to its promise of offering engaging artistic, cultural, culinary and shopping experiences. Arriving at Tai Kwun on any given day, one will find a calendar of events that includes changing exhibitions, art installations, performances, films, concerts and storytelling spaces as well as regular tours.

The Clock Tower

Standing 44 metres high, the Clock Tower was built as part of the Kowloon-Canton Railway terminus in Tsim Sha Tsui in 1915. The once-bustling station is now gone, but this red brick and granite tower is still standing as a graceful relic of the Steam Age. It was declared a monument in 1990, and certainly, the millions of Chinese immigrants who passed through the terminus on their way to start a new life in Hong Kong or another part of the globe would have found it a memorable landmark. The bronze bell that had chimed from 1921 to 1976 was restored to its rightful place in the tower in 2021 in honour of its centennial.

Western Market

The oldest market building still standing in Hong Kong, Western Market occupies a whole block between Connaught Road Central and Des Voeux Road Central in Sheung Wan. The red-brick Edwardian-style structure has a granite entrance and prominent corner towers; it was completed in 1906 and sold produce until 1988. Today, it is home to cafés, restaurants, curio shops and fabric merchants who were relocated from stalls in adjacent lanes after it was refurbished and reopened in 1991. Visitors to this historic site may want to travel here by another still thriving vestige of Hong Kong heritage – Western Market is one of Hong Kong Tramways’ seven terminuses.

Rice Rhapsody: In a city where rice is life, Sushi Haru’s Chef Hirokuni Shiga orchestrates a masterful omakase

As Asians, we tend to gravitate to a bowl of piping hot rice to satisfy our hunger at any time of the day. But there’s the undeniable draw of something more, for which sushi, Japan’s heart of culinary offerings, sparks an entirely new love affair. The presence of countless establishments paying homage to the intricacies and revelations of Japan’s heart of culinary offerings underscores the Hong Kong craving for raw fish atop vinegared rice.

Taking over the hinoki wood dining counter of just exactly eight seats, Chef Hirokuni Shiga is flexing his faultless sense of taste at the intimate setting of Sushi Haru, at the top of Wyndham Street in Central. This humble master of Edomae sushi began his career at his family’s kappo-style restaurant and it wasn’t until he was in his early 20s that, at the invitation of his father’s friend, he had his first encounter with omakase sushi. He began an apprenticeship, and from then on, his imaginative culinary creations have captivated diners.

”What I think makes us stand out is that I am able to incorporate everything I have learned in kappo and kaiseki dining into the dishes I serve,” says Shiga, who doesn’t shy from sharing his own story from behind the counter. “For example, depending on the piece of fish I am serving, I use different types of rice and details like this help to shape the guest’s experience.”

Both Hong Kong and Japan are known for wearing their history as a badge of honour. Although it may seem that tradition and modernity are forever in flux, Sushi Haru manages to pay homage to the past while expressing a contemporary vibe. The Zen aesthetic is further enhanced by a display of minimal-themed, charcoal- based framed drawings and a grey and brown colour combination – the only two hues evident throughout the restaurant.

But of course, there’s the sushi, the main star of the show, as well as the chef showing off his knife skills while finely slicing a selection of seafood. His kitchen balances flavour and subtlety without coming off at all gimmicky and then splashes of vivid, varied colour are served dish after dish. Think akami (lean red tuna), shiromi (white fish), nimono (simmered fish), kai (shellfish), ika (squid), tako (octopus), ebi (shrimp), kani (crab) and gyoran (fish roe).

But of all these sensational toppings, it’s the hikarimono (silver-skinned fish) that Shiga names as his personal favourite. “I am most proud of our kohada [gizzard shad] and kasugo [young sea bream] because, although they are the most labour- intensive, the hard work can be tasted in the result,” he says. “Oftentimes, in the world of sushi, a true test of a sushi chef is in how they prepare kohada.”

There’s also good news for newcomers to East Asia who have yet to master chopsticks. “You can eat with your fingers or you can use chopsticks,” he adds, smiling. The dexterous chef also beguiles his audience with his step-by-step method of assembling a perfectly shaped sushi, which involves gently pressing the fish onto the rice.

In between exquisite bites, sake and beer add a smooth, subtle sweetness to the night’s bouquet of flavours. Shiga, who is often caught raising a glass or two with his audience, also brings a citrusy kick via a fruit-infused sake to the table.

“Sushi, if you are to just look at it, is not too complicated, but the amount of care that is put into it should always be reflected on the faces of your guests,” he emphasises. “That is when you know you have succeeded.”

The looks of joyous satisfaction around the table as our omakase feast concludes is a testament to both Sushi Haru and Chef Hirokuni Shiga’s triumph. Rice will always be appealing anywhere on this side of the world, but Sushi Haru truly goes far beyond satisfying a craving.

Sushi Haru, Mezzanine, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: 2111 1450

Photos: Jack Fontanilla / Sushi Haru Video: Jack Fontanilla

Mono Modernity: Less is more for the quiet luxury trend

Look 1

On Her
Dress, tie, mini handbag and boots by Valentino

On Him
Trench coat, top, tie, cross- body bag, shorts and boots by Valentino

Look 2

On Her
Necklace and rings by Chopard
Dress and handbag by Miu Miu

On Him
Sweater, belt and pants by Zegna
Handbag by Ferragamo Scandals by Christian Louboutin

Look 3

On Her
Necklaces and ring by Messika
Turtle neck sweater, jacket and pants by Isabel Marant Handbag by Maison Margiela
Slingback pumps by Roger Vivier

On Him
Rings, bracelet, jacket, top and pants by Gucci

Look 4

On Her
Earrings and rings by FRED Jacket, handbag and pencil skirt by Prada

On Him
Bracelets by FRED Cardigan, jacket, handbag and pants by Prada

Look 5

On Her
Earrings, necklace and rings by Tiffany & Co. Dress by Loewe Handbag by Dior
High knee boots by Christian Louboutin

On Him
Bracelet by Tiffany & Co. Jacket and pants by Loewe

Look 6

On Her
Scarf, trench coat, pants and boots by Hermès

On Him
Top, vest, pants and boots by Hermès

Look 7

Earrings and ring by Chopard Torin strapless feather-trimmed sequined crepe
mini dress by RETROFÊTE, courtesy of Net-A-Porter Heels by Christina Louboutin

Look 8

On Her
Earrings, necklace and ring by Messika Dress by Chloé

On Him
Jacket and pants by Dolce & Gabbana

Look 9

Ring and bracelet by Chopard Jacket and pants by Diesel

Photographer: Jack Law Art Direction & Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma Videographer: Jack Fontanilla Female Model: Iris F (Quest Artists & Models) Male Model: Kostya D (Quest Artists & Models) Hair and Make-up: Owen Ko & Joenny Lau

Also read: Park Keepers: Outré outwear you will never ever want to part with

What’s on? Things to do this October in Hong Kong

Make October more fun and entertaining with all the cultural events ranging from Sports events to trade shows and concerts that are taking place this month. Gafencu has picked the ones you should not absolutely miss.

National Day Fireworks

The traditional fireworks display in Victoria Harbour makes a welcome return to celebrate National Day. Taking place for the first time since 2019 following the lifting of Covid restrictions, the spectacle is sure to draw huge crowds keen to see colourful fireworks displays set against the amazing backdrop of the Hong Kong skyline. Whatever the weather, this world-class event is always an unforgettable experience. The event celebrates the 74th anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China, and the extravaganza is a goodwill gesture intended to bring happiness and prosperity to the city.

When: October 1-2

Where: Victoria Harbour

How much: Free

Ocean Park Halloween Fest

If ghoulish goings-on during Halloween appeal, hasten to Ocean Park this month as it celebrates the horror show in style. There will be monsters galore, ghostly apparitions and lots of shows to keep you scared stiff but wanting more. The large site contains haunted houses and amazing interactive experiences to make sure your visit to the park is a memorable one. Favourite themes should return such as Ghost Tours, Survivor of the Undead and Treasure Hunts. Holders of Halloween Terror Trio Tickets can present the ticket and experience the thrill of three designated Halloween attractions.

When: October 1-31st

Where: Ocean Park

How much: From $388

Freespace Jazz Fest

A fantastic cocktail of different jazz styles will be on offer at Jazz Fest 2023, which will feature more than 500 musicians from across the world. The festival includes Jazzscapes, a series of one-hour concerts held over three consecutive evenings with musical genres ranging from punk and electronica to fusion and world music. Arts, DJ booths, interactive activities and plenty of food and drink will be available. Jim Tomlinson and Stacey Kent headline on the final night.

When: October 3-8 / 26th October

Where: West Kowloon Cultural District

How much: From $160

Fine Art and Ink Asia

Running alongside each other, Fine Art Asia and Ink Asia are returning to Hong Kong in their traditional guise with the much-missed overseas exhibitors also present, promising to make the four- day event one to remember. Various exhibitors and collection categories will highlight the dynamics between East- West artistic interaction and showcase new trends in collecting.

When: October 5-8

Where: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai

How much: $15

One Ok Rock Luxury Disease Asia Tour In

Japanese band One Ok Rock finally gets to perform in Hong Kong after the cancellation of their scheduled concert in 2020 left many fans in a state of despair. The group first hit international music headlines with their superb 35xxxv album, released in 2015 to much acclaim. Since that breakthrough moment, they have toured the world. The superstars’ current tour is named for their 10th studio album, Luxury Disease.

When: October 7

Where: Central Harbourfront

How much: From $599

Hong Kong Tennis Open

Sports enthusiasts will be delighted to see the return of world-class tennis to our shores in the form of the Prudential Hong Kong Tennis Open 2023. Previous tournaments attracted top- ranking players such as Venus Williams and Caroline Wozniacki. Huge crowds are expected to watch the stars of the women’s game expertly serve, volley and lob to get their hands on some of the US$250,000 (HK$1.96 million) prize money.

When: October 7-15

Where: Victoria Park Tennis Stadium

How much: From $160

Mega Show Part 1

This annual trade show is notable for the wide range of household goods, gifts and toys on display. Exhibitors from around the world will flock to show off their wares and countless buyers will congregate for an amazing sourcing extravaganza. On offer will be houseware and kitchenware, lifestyle products, toys and baby products, plus arts and crafts and Christmas-themed items. There are special sections gathering the latest sporting products, and design and tech gadgets.

When: October 20-23

Where: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai

How much: Price varies

Hong Kong Cyclothon

The 2023 Sun Hung Kai Properties Hong Kong Cyclothon will whizz through the streets late in the month, with places for 5,200 biking enthusiasts. There are multiple races being staged, ranging from 30 km to 50 km, the more leisurely Family Fun Ride and for top-tier professional cycling teams, the UCI Class 1.1 Road Race.

When: October 22

Where: Start / finish in Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

How much: Free for spectators

Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival

Foodies and wine connoisseurs will rejoice in anticipation of the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival, which promises to cater for all tastes and sweet spots. This is a never-to-be-forgotten outdoor dining experience set against the stunning skyline and ambience of Victoria Harbour. Coming to the party are wineries and brewers from around the world who will bring some of the best beverages available and masters of culinary delights serving sensational dishes.

When: October 26-29

Where: Central Harbourfront

How much: Price varies

Kings And Aces: Mark Cho, the visionary co-founder of The Armoury, tailors an entire floor of luxury shopping in Pedder Building

Two consecutive weekends of typhoon and heavy rain have halted The Armoury team who were working non-stop to finish their new home on the fifth floor of Pedder Building in Central. It’s close to 3 pm and Mark Cho moves along his shelves and racks of canvassed Savile Row-style suits, bench-made shoes, crisp shirts, neckties and much more in a kind of reverential awe. The 40-year-old, internationally known as the co- founder of The Armoury, co-owner of Drake’s haberdasher and director of the Pedder Arcade, meticulously checks the smallest of details, including the spacing between the textile canopy of the shop ceiling.

“Give me 10 minutes,” he says. “I just need to finalise a few things with our interior designer, then we can start [the cover shoot].”

It feels like a tacit invitation to explore the whole floor of what will become the Pedder Arcade. Cho is the director of the much- anticipated project – a pitch he delivered to the Pedder Building landlords during Covid – to create a shopping arcade that will resonate with the ones in the UK, complete with a café and dapper essentials boutiques that will become a one-stop destination for lounging and shopping.

Scrolling along the floor-to-ceiling shelves, Cho pulls out, using one hand, his selection of six different looks for our cover shoot, and in the other hand holds his go-to energy booster, a Venti Iced Americano.

At first, Cho may look like your typical businessman – oftentimes he puts on a serious face and dresses like a geezer. He has a cool composure that could read as seriousness, or perhaps he’s just drained from the weight of arcade preparation he and his team have shouldered over the past two years. Yet, he pushes through, like he has always in his life, and makes things work despite the situation.

“I was originally a womenswear designer, but my parents wanted something more of a conventional career path for me. It’s an Asian thing, I know,” he says. “And so, for a few years, I worked in the banking industry. But then life has its way of bringing you to where you are supposed to be. A place where your passion really thrives. And 13 years later, I am still doing what I am really passionate about – tailoring and dressing people.”

King of uncool

Born in the UK and simultaneously calling Hong Kong, the United States and the UK his homes, the Brown University alumnus confesses he was a bit of an outsider during his formative years. On his Instagram account, one can read and question the bio line that says ‘Making uncool uncool again’. Giving a very vague explanation, he says: “Perhaps that’s what I do best?” he gives a side smirk and at the same time a little shrug. “Growing up, I was like a mongrel because I moved around a lot.”

Moving to a more serious note, he passionately articulates the inspiration he derived from the Japanese fashion entrepreneurs and creative directors of the ’70s to the ’90s, such as Hirofumi Kurino, Yasuto Kamoshita, Osamu Shigematsu, Kenji Kaga, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo. He sees them as a sort of God-tier in the world of style – strong personalities with no existing playbook to follow who basically figured things out on their own and set the tone for the fashion of their entire country, as well as having a knock-on effect throughout Asia.

Tailored approach

For Cho personally, though, it was the other way around – from Asia to New York. In 2013, having successfully become classic menswear retailers in Hong Kong, with their initial 2010 shop in Pedder Building joined by another in The Landmark, he and co-founder Alan See established The Armoury New York. They honed their abilities to design collections in-house and now have a unique selection of products that are exclusively under their brand.

“Our vision is to teach people to appreciate classic style and tailoring, to offer an enjoyable and personal customer experience, and to encourage people to buy less, buy better and appreciate their clothing,” he recaps.

Taking the fifth

The Pedder Arcade passion runs deep. Almost part of Cho’s branding at this moment, it subtly informs the classic yet stylish aesthetic he has steered at The Armoury. And just as the Pedder Arcade will orbit around different players housed along the length of the fifth floor, Cho is the centrifugal force of his own creative team. His sense of dialogue and open-mindedness are evidently what makes him and his brand tick. Moreover, his ultra- responsiveness makes him the greatest ally on both strategic and creative fronts.

“Expressing yourself through clothing is very important,” he says. “People need to be who they want to be. Expressing yourself through fashion is difficult because it changes faster than you yourself might change. You can be in fashion for a moment and then out of fashion the next. Or, you can be a slave to fashion and chase it forever.”

The entire floor, best described as somewhat similar to the hallmarks of the tailor shop in the film Kingsman, is poised to be elegant, modern and romantic, with prices in the upmarket apparel boutiques ranging from HK$10,000 to $30,000. But as a thinking millennial, Cho is pragmatic, too.

He says: “I don’t see fashion as exclusive to the rich and famous. If anything, there are so many wonderful deals to be had if you’re willing to use second-hand or old stock. If life is going to be a competition, then you can always compete with your imagination instead of your wallet.”

Time is prime

A man of many interests, Cho is in a permanent state of doing. Just recently, he was on a Discord chat about watches hosted by an international publication, in addition to the challenges of making a curated shopping arcade come to life before mid-October. He works at weekends too, which is why, he thinks, he could use a little help via a superpower to freeze time.

“Ah! It must be nice to stop time even for a while. I never had enough time,” he says, while wiping his glasses, finger-brushing his hair and straightening his suit and tie ready to face our camera.

With the help of his takeaway iced coffee, Cho negotiates our six-spread photoshoot without a single flinch, even suggesting which lens would work best for each angle.

In between effortlessly poses, including lounging on a newly delivered leather couch, he has a word of encouragement for our production team: “When you have a vision, you just have to stick to it and make it work.” As the camera clicks its last shot, he immediately shakes everyone’s hand before attending to another appointment.

And unlike Kingsman’s heroes, Cho, The Armoury and the Pedder Arcade’s services are now far from being a secret. They all ace the dapper gentleman lifestyle with the right attitude, commitment and excellence.

Interview & Art Direction: Joseff Musa Photographer: Jack Law Videographer: Jack Fontanilla Venue: The Pedder Arcade

Living the life: Vienna stays top, but Asian cities are rising in the ranks of the best places to be

Famed for its magnificent imperial palaces and love of opera and classical music, Vienna has retained its crown as the world’s most liveable city. That is according to the Economist Intelligence Unit’s (EIU) latest Global Liveability Index, which ranks Vienna in the top spot owing to its “winning combination of stability, good culture and entertainment, reliable infrastructure, and exemplary education and health services”.

Another European city, Copenhagen, takes second place, while third and fourth positions go to Melbourne and Sydney respectively. This represents a return to form for Australian cities which were particularly badly affected by the restrictions imposed as a result of the pandemic. Three cities in Canada, two in Switzerland, and two in Asia (Auckland and Osaka are joint tenths) comprise the rest of the top 10. The rise of Asian cities among a total of 173 ranked this year is particularly striking.

The EIU is the research and analysis division of The Economist Group and provides forecasting and consulting services on an international level. The first survey was conducted in 2004 and Vienna, in 2018, was the first European city to win the coveted ranking.

This year’s edition of EIU’s Global Liveability Index has notched up the highest average score in 15 years for the original comparable list of 140 cities. The ranking process is determined by a number of criteria: stability (25%), healthcare (20%), culture and entertainment (25%), education (10%) and infrastructure (20%). Assessment is based on a mixture of quantitative and qualitative performance measures.

Viennese waltz

The authorities in Vienna were naturally cock-a-hoop about the results of the latest survey. “We are delighted to have been named the most liveable city twice this year, by Monocle and the Economic Intelligence Unit,” said a spokesperson for the Vienna Tourist Board, also referring to a separate survey.

This city certainly has a lot going for it in terms of arts and cultural experiences, catering to traditional and contemporary tastes alike. In the luxury sector, it has it all – five-star hotels, fantastic dining experiences, superb coffee houses that made the Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage list, and marvellous shopping with top – brand retailers – while private concerts and tours of magnificent museums are available.

Aside from low crime and efficient trams, living within the splendour of this beautiful cultural cocktail is also enhanced by more simple pleasures: the quality of its drinking water. Fresh water flows into the city’s homes from 30 natural sources emanating from the nearby Alps. Water fountains are dotted around the city to top-up supplies free of charge.

Despite these undoubted attractions, the typical Viennese is characterised as being grumpy with a dark sense of humour. It is thought about a quarter of Austria’s residents hail from outside the country, making for a cosmopolitan mix.

Melbourne reemergence

Melbourne is also another famously cosmopolitan city, with people noted for their sense of irony. The capital of Victoria has traditionally been a strong performer in the Global Liveability Index, with this year’s third-ranked city previously winning the top spot seven times.

Melbourne’s climb back up the rankings comes as no surprise to journalist Robert Blain, whose family migrated to the city from Scotland when he was three years old. Blain, who has lived and worked between Melbourne and Hong Kong for more than 30 years, notes how it is such a safe and stable city, mirroring broader Australia.

“There is an excellent subsidised and affordable healthcare through the Medicare scheme,” he says. “Primary and high-school education is practically free for all, and there are excellent private schools. Tertiary education is also of a high standard with the University of Melbourne regularly featuring highly in global university rankings, and Monash University has one of the world’s top medical faculties.”

Though Melbourne is a relatively high-taxing jurisdiction with a high cost of living, Blain believes this delivers certain advantages – outstanding infrastructure, including roads, public facilities and hospitals. He also considers the city’s culture and environment to be among its strengths; it offers thriving live-music and arts scenes and is one of the world’s great sporting cities.

“Restaurants and cafés are also varied and of the highest quality due to Melbourne’s cosmopolitan makeup,” he says. “For example, yum cha in the city rivals anywhere in the world due to the number of Hong Kong-trained chefs, combined with high-quality and fresh ingredients.”

He blames “one of the longest lockdowns in the world” for the city’s 2022 ranking when it attained 10th position. “Melburnians are indeed proud of the city’s high ranking – especially if it finishes above Sydney, with which there is a keen rivalry!”

A spokesperson for the EIU said that Australian cities are traditionally high performers and the transition away from the pandemic has been the biggest factor in restoring their status. They also noted that all cities in Canada received perfect scores for healthcare and education.

Asian risers

Interestingly, the Europeans dominate the list of top 10 fallers in this year’s rankings. Though their overall index scores did not necessarily drop sharply, other cities particularly in Asia made great strides in their scores and rose up the table. Indeed, eight of the top 10 risers are from the Asia-Pacific region, with Hanoi in Vietnam and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia climbing impressively.

The EIU spokesperson said the liveability of a city is often connected to its economic success and vice-versa and it was this that helped explain the incremental structural improvements in cities across developing economies of Asia. “Economic growth has enabled many of the cities to push forward structural improvements in areas such as education and healthcare,” they noted. “As the world’s political and economic axis continues to shift eastwards, we expect the cities in these regions to move slowly up our liveability rankings.”

Tenth-place Osaka got a perfect score in three out of the five categories covered by EIU’s liveability index – stability, culture and environment, and education. According to the spokesperson, the city’s slight uptick in culture and environment ratings in this edition was due to the removal of pandemic restrictions.

The survey has added 33 cities since last year, many of them in China. These cities dominate the middle of the rankings, with healthcare reforms having aided their liveability scores.

Stability slips

Further to this, the spokesperson revealed global average healthcare scores had improved the most, with smaller gains for education, culture and entertainment, and infrastructure. “However, scores for stability have slipped backwards, amid several instances of civil unrest around the world.”

Inflation fuelled by high petrol and food prices and shortages of goods have sparked unrest and dissatisfaction in many cities. High-ranking Melbourne was not immune from the turmoil with supply chain issues caused by the pandemic and war in Ukraine.

Blain cites manpower shortages, especially in the retail sector, the escalating cost of living and high property prices as areas of concern. “It will be interesting to see how these challenges affect Melbourne’s ranking in the future,” he notes.

Best Games Ever: While covering themselves in glory, Hong Kong’s medal heroes also spread sporting joy throughout society

The FISU World University Games in Chengdu, China, were ones to remember for Hong Kong and its athletes. Astonishingly, their medal haul – 12 including 4 golds – matched Hong Kong’s combined total at all previous games. While friendships were forged and great individual and team battles played out, this summer’s edition of the biennial world student games will undoubtedly leave a lasting sporting legacy for the city. There were moments of supreme personal achievement and performances representing the pinnacle of sporting excellence.

Most impressive was the achievement of Hong Kong fencing superstar Edgar Cheung Ka-long, who notched up double gold, in the Men’s Individual Foil and the Team Foil. The 26-year-old, who is studying for a bachelor’s degree in Physical Education and Recreation Management at Hong Kong Baptist University (HKBU), is no stranger to the winner’s podium, having bagged the gold medal at the 2021 Tokyo Olympics in the same individual event.

Professor Alexander Wai, President and Vice- Chancellor of HKBU, expressed immense pride in his student’s unwavering perseverance and determination, further stating: “His exceptional performance has solidified his position as one of the world’s top fencers, and we are all expecting him to reach new heights in the field.” Cheung’s achievement in winning two gold medals at a single World University Games was last matched by Hong Kong swimmer Siobhan Haughey at the 2017 edition in Taipei.

Win win for Hong Kong

In total, Hong Kong won four gold, one silver and seven bronze medals in Chengdu. Dr. Hon Sze-Sze of the HKBU’s Department of Sport, Physical Education & Health believes the success of Hong Kong athletes at the 31st University Games will enhance the perception of sports and boost participation in a city where traditionally it has ranked low in the public consciousness. “It is important for people to see that Hong Kong athletes could compete in high-level sports competitions and find success there, proving that it is not just a wild dream for young kids wanting to reach the Olympics one day,” she says.

Hon is convinced successful role models are much needed for aspiring young athletes and children alike. Regarding its value for sporting exposure, she places the games organised by the International University Sports Federation (FISU) just second to the Olympics in terms of the number of participants and the level of sporting excellence. “In terms of spectatorship, it is undoubtedly very successful in drawing a good audience,” she stresses, adding: “The World University Games is seen as a platform where young student-athletes can learn from peers of diverse culture and background; it is not merely a gathering to demonstrate athletic prowess.”

Beyond sporting excellence

The stated aim of HKBU’s Physical Education and Recreation Management degree is to provide students with sufficient depth and breadth of knowledge, skills and practical experience in the discipline. While the course is not focused on training elite athletes in technical sports skills per se, it would certainly support student-athletes in pursuing their sporting goals while studying. “In addition, under the ethos of ‘whole person education’ of HKBU, our students will receive a strong liberal arts education to prepare them for a variety of careers,” says Hon.

Other notable student-athletes studying at HKBU have competed in major games. Recently retired top track cyclist Sarah Lee Wai-sze, who won two bronze medals at separate Olympics, graduated from its Creative and Professional Writing programme. The university also had other athletes at the World University Games who performed well, such as wushu star Lau Chi-lung, who won a silver medal in the Men’s nanquan. His achievement represents triumph over adversity as he suffered a serious knee injury a couple of years previously. Hon says Lau’s example will inspire others to overcome setbacks through hard work and self-discipline.

University support

She points out that HKBU and other local universities offer different categories of scholarships to encourage current and retiring athletes to engage in academic programs which help to expand their future career prospects. Cheung, for instance, was one of the scholarship awardees under HKBU’s Talented Athletes Direct Admission Scheme last year.

According to HKBU’s website, the scheme provides funding for eligible applicants who have sport talent and achieved outstanding results in sport at admission. Funding is renewable for the normal duration of the course, subject to the student’s academic results, good progress in sport training and performance, as well as contributions to the Sport Leadership Programme.

The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology (HKUST) also provided medal winners at the Games and encourages students with exceptional athletic abilities to enrol through various admission programmes. A spokesperson indicated that as part of this commitment, HKUST has enhanced its Student Athletes Admissions Scheme to offer special admissions consideration based on sport achievements, as well as flexible study arrangements, scholarships, living allowances, academic accommodation and other relevant assistance, allowing student-athletes to pursue their sporting and academic goals simultaneously.

Citywide, the University Grants Committee of Hong Kong, which embraces eight universities, paves the way for sports stars to gain tertiary education. It maintains the Student-Athlete Learning Support and Admission Scheme to promote sport achievement-based university admissions for local athletes.

Power of sport

HKUST says it recognises the wider personal and developmental benefits of sports and its ability to foster a sense of belonging, dedication and enjoyment among students. To this end, there are more than 30 sports clubs at the university and over 50 HKUST sports teams participating in intercollegiate, local and international competitions. All new undergraduates are required to take the sports skill class within its Behavioral Foundations of University Education: Habits, Mindsets and Wellness course in their first year of study to learn how to maintain a well- balanced and healthy lifestyle.

The Hong Kong Jockey Club’s Athlete Incentive Awards Scheme rewarded those athletes who achieved success at the World University Games. Monetary bonuses provide extra incentives for top- level performance, according to Hon, who points out that many athletes devote a great deal of time to training and competitions. “However, I do not think many athletes are aiming to earn big money through their sports endeavours,” she says. “Most of them do it because of the pure love of the sport itself.”

Hon also notes many are driven by a continual desire to improve their performance levels. Hong Kong’s world-class fencer is a classic example of a person driven to succeed. Soon after his latest gold medal triumph, Cheung told the assembled media: “I don’t think about anything. My mind is just ‘be a warrior, just fight’.”

The Asian Games in Hangzhou, which begin on 23 September, is the next opportunity for the city’s sports warriors to shine.

Cruise the Mediterranean on board Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ magnificent new ship – Seven Seas Grandeur

Premium travel agents Miramar Travel are offering the chance to book an unforgettable eight-day cruise on board Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ magnificent new ship –Seven Seas Grandeur– for the 7 Nights Iconic Italy and a Taste of Spain (Cruise Only) voyage.

The 7-night sailing will depart from Rome on 1 May 2024, with disembarkation in Barcelona 7 nights later. Cruising the Mediterranean, the ship will call in Naples, Italy; Taormina (Sicily), Italy; Valletta, Malta; the island of Mallorca; Valencia, Spain, before ending at Barcelona on Day 8.

The all—inclusive package ranges from $58,799 (Deluxe Veranda Suite, 28.6-33.5 sq. m) to $62,299 (Superior Suite, 38.6-43.1 sq. m)per person.

These are some of Europe’s finest tourist hotspots from the Roman splendour of the Eternal City with its coliseum and magnificent vistas, to the historic harbour of Malta’s charming capital, Valletta, full of Baroque palaces, to the beautiful island of Mallorca, and lastly the elegance and visual splendour of Valencia and Barcelona. This is a cruise whose destinations and melting pot of captivating cultures will combine to leave a lasting impression.

Seven Seas Grandeur is the newest luxury liner of Regent Seven Seas Cruises, who have been delivering top-of-the-range cruise experiences for over 30 years. The ship’s maiden voyage is set for November 2023 and promises to feature unrivalled space, unparalleled service, epicurean indulgence, and transformative experiences for guests as soon as they step on board.

It will elevate the cruising experience to a new level of luxury and refined indulgence. With a gross tonnage of 55,500 and only 746 guests, Seven Seas Grandeur provides among the highest space and staff to guest ratios in the industry.

Accommodation categories on offer for the all-inclusive packages include the lovely Deluxe Veranda Suite (28.6-33.5 sq. m) from $58,799 (price per person upon twin sharing), featuring a private balcony, plush sofa, large desk space and a slew of superb amenities, including a Welcome Bottle of Champagne and 24-hour room service.

The stunning Superior Suite (38.6-43.1 sq. m) from $62,299 (price per person upon twin sharing) is beautifully appointed and spacious, featuring a walk-in closet, sitting area to unwind and dual sinks in the bathroom.

Guests may savour the best of world cuisine with Serene Spa & Wellness Selections in the many restaurants on board. These culinary dishes offer an extensive array of innovative options that inspire healthy living, featuring exquisite dishes influenced by a myriad of global fares including delectable plant-based cuisine.

The signature steakhouse aboard Seven Seas Grandeur is Prime 7. Designed by Studio DADO, the fully re-imagined venue takes its cues from the classic New York steakhouse at the turn of the 19th to 20th century. Prime 7 may embrace its roots but this is a restaurant designed to cater directly to Regent’s sophisticated, worldly guests who expect only the finest culinary experiences.

There plenty of other ways guests can be pampered to the hilt. The ship’s Serene Spa & Wellness™ experience will enhance relaxation at sea with an indulgent treatment menu that integrates best-in-class techniques and luxury ingredients from around the world, including new treatments utilizing the restorative power of an amber and quartz crystal bed, and an advanced treatment table for a Zero Gravity Wellness Massage.

Guests could book a Hot Mineral Body Boost to alleviate muscular pain and remove toxins, while the Poultice-Powered Muscle Release works away sore, aching muscles with an invigorating treatment that targets tension and finishes with a restorative facial massage.

For a completely unique experience, the Zero Gravity Wellness Massage is an option. Producing a zero-gravity effect, the body is suspended on an advanced treatment table that allows for ergonomic workflows and a seamless series of sophisticated techniques.

The Serene Spa & Wellness Hydrothermal Suite allows spa-goers to relax before or after spa treatments and enjoy Regent’s multisensory aromatherapy steam room, chill room, infrared sauna and experiential showers.

On land, Serene Spa & Wellness Tours enhance wellness through immersive and restorative shore excursions where guests can, for example, soak in mineral-rich thermal springs in Rome, Italy, or balance themselves in a yoga class overlooking the picturesque seaside town of Taormina, Sicily.

Guests could also admire the ship’s awe-inspiring multi-million-dollar art, including an exquisite Fabergé egg, a meticulously hand-crafted objet d’art known as Journey in Jewels and spawning from Seven Seas Cruises’ partnership with Fabergé, the world-renowned jewellers.

For bookings, click here.

Miramar Travel Website: www.hkmiramartravel.com

Cruise Hotline: 3960 0386

Email: mecruises@miramarexpress.hk

Peri Projectors

Create the prettiest new addition to your jewellery collection using peridot.

The mineral olivine, which naturally has an olive-green colour, is what gives Peridot its gem-quality status; however, it has a distinctive lime-green hue that truly plays up the current dopamine-dressing trend. High-quality resources, which were only recently discovered in China but were originally discovered on an island in the Red Sea, have sparked a peridot-jewellery explosion.

Peridots were the height of fashion in the Victorian era and are said to banish nightmares and bring luck. They were known as the Evening Emerald by the ancient Romans, believed to glow in the dark by the early Egyptians and adored by King Edward VII.

Don’t let the stone’s lime-green colour deter you; modern jewellers have demonstrated how its acidic tones can be tastefully complemented with other stones, especially diamonds and pearls, as shown by Chaumet, Buccellati and Mikimoto, amongst many others.