Track Stars: Winning watches inspired by supercars past and present

The unrivalled technical and sporting centenary by presenting a special version of its excellence embodied in racing cars is a perfect bedfellow for luxury watches that seek the ultimate in performance standards. These are watches taking their inspiration from the high-octane world of motorsport and high-performance cars.

An extraordinary example is the RM UP- 01 Ferrari spawned by the now two-year-old partnership between Richard Mille and Italian carmaker Ferrari. Thousands of laboratory hours were spent refining a dashboard-like timepiece with total shock resistance and a super-slim 1.75-millimetre sleekness that remains true to the spirit of the marque. Remarkably, this perfectly flat watch retains complete internal movement within the case and boasts a baseplate and skeletonised bridges crafted of grade 5 titanium, a material specifically chosen for its lightness and toughness.

In homage to the 24 Hours of Le Mans race, which celebrated its 100th anniversary this year, Richard Mille has also released a limited-edition RM 72-01 Le Mans Classic. Crafted as per usual in the event’s colours, the 150 watches are flyback chronographs with a patented double oscillating pinion clutch mechanism to maximise performance.

Rolex marked the 24 Hours of Le Mans legendary chronograph adored by the late actor and racing driver Paul Newman. The new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona’s calibre 4132 movement allows for a 24-hour chronograph function (as opposed to the usual 12-hour count) in tribute to the race itself. In addition, the number ‘100’ in red ceramic stands out on the tachymetric scale of this 18-carat gold watch with a brilliant black dial.

Such is the affection and status of the Daytona watch that Rolex has updated the entire range on the occasion of its 60th birthday. All iterations utilise a new chronograph movement via the calibre 4131, with innovations including the patented Chronergy escapement which is resistant to strong magnetic fields, a cut-out oscillating weight and new finishes, especially on the bridges. The new- generation Cosmograph Daytona spans a range of materials from 950 platinum and Oystersteel to 18-carat Everose gold.

Roger Dubuis’ inspiration is the supercar designs of the Lamborghini Squadra Corse, and hot off the blocks, the watchmaker has just released a striking blue Excalibur Spider Huracán Sterrato following last year’s pulsating orange version. The new variation is housed in a 45mm carbon case engineered from a compound nine times lighter than gold – Sheet Molding Compound (SMC) Carbon – then topped by black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) titanium.

A rubber and camouflage pattern strap blends hues of blue and uses a Combined Vulcanisation process for a seamless look. The watch also has 60 hours of power reserve and is water resistant to 50 metres. Meanwhile, a new Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph made its debut at the Goodwood Festival of Speed in July.

A month previously, just prior to the start of the annual 1000 Miglia race from Brescia and Rome and back in Italy, four new models of the ongoing Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph collection were unveiled by race sponsor and timekeeper Chopard. Made from Lucent Steel (eco-friendly recycled material more resilient than regular steel), the precision-engineered quartet comes in colours that nod to the paint jobs and interior finishes of the pre-1957 1000 Miglia racers – cherry red, grey blue, light green and racing black. A limited-edition version of the Mille Miglia GTS Chrono has also been released, featuring a large-diameter crown and ‘mushroom’ pushers to aid usage whilst driving.

TAG Heuer has also established a reputation for fine racing watches. With 2023 marking the 60th anniversary of the famous TAG Heuer Carrera, two new models hit the ground running: a Chronograph and Chronograph Tourbillon. The latter is its first ‘Glassbox’ model – domed glass encasing the dial and tachymeter bezel – featuring a tourbillon cage. Technical developments mean the tachymeter scale can now be read from a wider range of angles, whilst improved ergonomics of the stainless-steel case promise increased comfort.

The two new models come with a black or blue circular brushed dial respectively, and incorporate an evolved version of its automatic chronograph calibre, the Heuer 02, that offers bi- directional winding. The Monaco Chronograph and Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue are also TAG Heuer racing models of note.

Clocking into the 70th anniversary of the 1953 Le Mans race, Bremont has introduced a new Jaguar-inspired watch, the C-type, in homage to the car that won it. A stainless-steel case back features a decorative coin depicting a C-type hood badge and five stainless-steel screws with polished heads. It is water-resistant to 200 metres and boasts domed anti-reflective and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Other racy models in the Bremont showroom include the Jaguar MKI, the Williams Racing WR-22 and the WR-45.

Omega’s watches have long adorned the adrenaline-fuelled racetracks of the world and its famous Omega Speedmaster was considered of such a high technical standard that it was worn by Buzz Aldrin on his moon mission. Upgraded and slimmed- down versions of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 were introduced last year, powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9906.

These eight models can claim the iconic Omega column-wheel chronograph mechanism, a rhodium-plated bridge, as well as magnetic resistance to 15,000 gauss.

Seamless Serenity: Open concept, dual layers, expansive views – this redesigned Kowloon peninsula penthouse is top draw

Modern, minimalist styling throughout a remodelled penthouse at Royal Peninsula in Hung Hom, Kowloon, reveals a masterclass in subtle extravagance. Entrusted to award- winning firm Grande Interior Design, the renovation of this 1,787-square-foot duplex apartment showcases a beautiful blend of aesthetics and practicality. Comfort merges with a unique design to epitomise sophistication and elegance.

From towering glass façades that offer awe-inspiring views to a meticulously designed floor plan that maximises space, the architectural brilliance here is captivating. High ceilings, an open-concept layout and seamless integration of indoor and outdoor spaces create an ambience that exudes both grandeur and tranquillity.

In the open-plan living quarters, plush sofas, custom-made cabinets and carefully curated décor reflect the discerning taste of the residents while ensuring optimal comfort. The materials used are premium, the furnishings are exquisite and the artwork is stunning. An interplay of subtle colours and natural light enhances the sense of serenity.

Light shades of wood for the floor and stairs, and bright white paintwork on the walls and ceiling follow the living room into the dining space and then the kitchen area. This luminous colour palette is highlighted by functional spotlights as well as a variety of lighting features to suit different activities. An airy frame ending in black- bronze pendent lamps drops down from the ceiling towards the grey marble-topped dining table, serving to mark the division between lounging and eating.

Modular furniture crafted from natural materials adorns the living area and allows for a flexible layout. The feature wall behind the TV has display shelves for art pieces and wooden cabinets for storage. Bronze lines running vertically along the back wall give a delicate layering to the dining area.

Parallel to the dining table, the designer has added an open bar area, with a wooden counter and high stools. It delineates the open kitchen equipped with spacious cabinets and attractive appliances that make preparing meals an enjoyable experience. Dressed in white and touched with marble, this area is coherent with the living and dining spaces.

A former bedroom on this floor has been transformed into a multifunctional space by adding an upper level. The double-level design provides an area for entertaining and shared family activities below, and a guest bedroom with a private bathroom above, accessed by an internal flight of steps. It is another versatile feature of a home unhindered by boundaries.

The staircase from the lounge that leads up to the more private second storey of the penthouse blends harmoniously with the interior by disappearing into the wall after the first landing. An earthy colour scheme distinguishes the master bedroom. The bronze lines of the dining area reappear, etching the wall behind the bed, while the grey fabric wallpaper provides texture. The bed faces an expansive window that affords stirring views of the urban outdoors.

To suit the needs and lifestyle of the owners, the master suite spans a bedroom, study, walk-in closet and ensuite. A darker wood veneer creates a mature yet cosy environment. The closet is equipped with a dresser and high wardrobe to maximise storage, and the ensuite is furnished in relatively brighter tones with an abundance of glass and marble.

Adjacent to the master bedroom is their daughter’s room, where lighter earth tones evoke a more youthful ambience and textured wallpaper imparts a tranquil vibe. The ensuite here, which echoes that of the master bedroom, is accessed through a sliding door. A high wardrobe and tall mirror enhance the practicality and feeling of spaciousness in a compact closet.

The seamless flow of space and light throughout this apartment instils a sense of integration and intricacy. It is a home offering commanding views and a calming presence that makes you feel on top of the world.

Photos: Grande Interior Design

Taylor to Perfection: Beyond the guitar strum, blonde locks and sold-out concerts, there is plenty of substance to Taylor Swift’s striking silhouette

It was music for Taylor Swift and Taylor Swift for music at the get-go. The country star turned pop star royalty showed a passion for music at a young age and quickly advanced from parts in children’s theatre to performing in front of a large audience. Before a Philadelphia 76ers basketball game at age 11, she sang The Star-Spangled Banner and the following year she picked up the guitar and started writing songs.

Swift created original music that expressed her experiences of tween alienation by drawing inspiration from country-music performers like Shania Twain and the Dixie Chicks. Her parents, supportive of her ambition for a musical career, sold their farm in Pennsylvania when she was 13 and relocated to Hendersonville, Tennessee, so she could attract the attention of country labels in nearby Nashville.

Swift met recording-industry veterans through a development arrangement with RCA Records, and in 2004, when she was 14 years old, she signed with Sony/ ATV as a songwriter. She frequently played her own songs at venues in the Nashville region, and it was during one of these performances that record executive Scott Borchetta took note.

Swift was recruited by Borchetta to his budding Big Machine label, and in the summer of 2006, she released her debut single, Tim McGraw, which was heavily influenced by the teenager’s favourite country musician. And the rest, including her chart-topping discographies, as they say, is history (her story in that case).

Voice for feminism

When the Grammy Award-winning music video – full of strong women kicking ass – for her iconic hit Bad Blood came back to back with her topping Maxim’s 2015 Hot 100 list, she took a moment to speak out about feminism and equality: “A man writing about his feelings from a vulnerable place is brave; a woman writing about her feelings from a vulnerable place is oversharing or whining. Misogyny is ingrained in people from the time they are born. So, to me, feminism is probably the most important movement that you could embrace, because it’s just basically another word for equality.”

At the same time, Swift faced criticism for penning too many songs in the past about her ex-boyfriends and other intimate relationships. She finds this critique anti-feminist and no longer has time for it. “When I was a teenager, I would hear people talk about sexism in the music industry, and I’d be like, I don’t see it. I don’t understand. Then I realised that was because I was a kid,” she explains.

“I didn’t see myself being held back until I was a woman. Or the double standards in headlines, the double standards in the way stories are told, the double standards in the way things are perceived.” She used her 2019 song The Man to emphasise how women and men are treated differently in the industry.

Political pride

Taylor also wants people to know that she supports the LGBTQ community, having received criticism of inaction in this regard. She claims she has consistently supported the movement through her work and charitable contributions. Clarifying her viewpoint, she says: “I didn’t realise until recently that I could advocate for a community that I’m not a part of. It’s hard to know how to do that without being so fearful of making a mistake that you just freeze.”

You Need To Calm Down, the smash-hit single from her 2019 album Lover, highlights her support of the LGBTQ community. The music video features Katy Perry, Ellen DeGeneres and iconic drag queens. The whole Lover catalogue was released at midnight on June 1, the beginning of Pride Month, when Swift introduced a petition in support of the US federal Equality Act. This legislation would amend the Civil Rights Act to outlaw discrimination based on gender identity and sexual orientation.

Swift also posted a letter to the Republican Lamar Alexander, then the US Senator from Tennessee, asking him to vote yes. The request, on her personal letterhead, denounced President Donald Trump for not supporting the Equality Act. “I personally reject the president’s stance,” Swift wrote. Need she say more?

Unfashionable authenticity

Since breaking into the public eye in 2006 as a 16-year-old wunderkind, Swift has become one of the most commercially successful singers of all time. Last year, her songs received 36.6 billion streams, but her aesthetic has never attracted the same kind of attention. Unlike her contemporaries, she isn’t necessarily a fashion icon. She rarely attends Fashion Week and frequently misses the Met Gala. She favours light-blue wash denim shorts, a faded pink vest and unassuming sneakers.

Despite being quite nondescript, this style is notable for how Taylor Swift really is. Her attire suggests that she may be performing at a local talent show even though she is playing to tens of thousands of fans on a stadium tour. Lots of slogan T-shirts, sparkly bodysuits and prom dresses with meringue skirts. Her current tour, dubbed Eras, is a retrospective of the outfits from each of her 10 studio albums.

However, a lack of fashion cred is not always a terrible thing. She is a sincere and cinematic hitmaker who effortlessly navigates embarrassing confessionals on Lover and small- town stagnation on Midnight (2022). All of this is done with an unfashionable authenticity.

Swift is portrayed in pop culture as the wise best friend that her followers wish they had when they were teenagers (the Swifties actually exchange friendship bracelets). She is someone who may have covered their eyelids in glitter after being rejected by their preferred prom date, a person who would take great satisfaction in creating the ideal ‘heartbreak’ sundae with heaped piles of whipped cream, Oreos and chocolate syrup.

Swift’s songwriting, in contrast to that of so many of her peers, is more likely to make references to her pet cats and a home-for- the-holidays crush than a Hermès bag. And this ordinariness resonates with many more people than perhaps she ever imagined when she first visited Nashville as a child and dreamed of making it big.

Volcanic Fury: For many tourists, there’s no crater joy than a volcano that has just erupted

Iceland’s volcanic eruption this summer set the tourist industry into overdrive. People from all over the country and overseas made a beeline for one of the most awe-inspiring sights nature has to offer – an active volcano.

Litli-Hrútur, a hill about 38 kilometres from Reykjavík, began spewing lava on July 10, in an area which has seen an unusually large amount of volcanic activity in recent years. It is part of a volcanic system on the Reykjanes Peninsula that also experienced eruptions in 2021 and 2022 at Fagradalsfjall. Some estimates put the number of sightseers in 2021 at 350,000 as the lava flowed off and on for six months.

Since no lava was seen running from the crater at Litli-Hrútur after August 5, total visitor numbers there will likely fall short of those previously recorded in other parts of the peninsula. Acutely aware of the whims of plate tectonics, some tourists booked flights to Iceland within an hour of the initial eruption for the chance to see close up the perhaps once-in- a-lifetime opportunity of nature unleashing its molten fury.

Creation in view

Authorities created a path to the hill and day by day a column of hikers made their way to within 1.5 kilometres of the cone and touching distance of smouldering fresh lava. Some visitors sent drones over the top of the boiling inferno to get a bird’s eye view of the mesmerising spectacle.

Indeed, flying drones over the rims of lava-spewing craters has become something of a craze for YouTubers; one ‘decommissioned’ his beyond-repair probe on a final flight down into a volcano in Iceland last year, churning out some remarkable footage.

Professor Thorvaldur Thordarson, a volcanologist at the University of Iceland, was awestruck when he saw the Litli-Hrútur eruption, telling a reporter from the Financial Times who was with him: “You’re looking at creation. The crust makes Earth a habitable place. Volcanoes maintain our atmosphere and are the reason why we have life on Earth.”

Icelandic blast

With some 30 volcanic systems running beneath it, and historically 130 volcanoes onshore and off it, Iceland has long attracted throngs of visitors hoping to catch a glimpse of an active one. Status reports on volcanic activity are regularly issued in the island nation, one of the most active volcanic regions on the planet with an eruption every four years on average.

Some eruptions can be huge, like the one in 2010 in the main crater of Eyjafjallajökull which caused a vast cloud of ash to spread over large areas of northern Europe, while in others, lava flows quietly from fissures.

Some tours of Iceland are centred purely around volcanoes – being lowered by lift into a cavernous magma chamber of the dormant Thrihnukagigur volcano, visiting huge lava cave complexes, undertaking spectacular hikes along volcanic peaks, or visiting the interactive volcano exhibition in Hvolsvöllur known as the Lava Centre.

The striking cone-shaped peak of the Snæfellsjo ̈kull National Park in the west of the country is thought to be the inspiration for Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth.

Volcano volume

Japan, New Zealand, Indonesia and other countries also promote their volcanic heritage. The world’s largest active volcano is Mauna Loa (Long Mountain) in Hawaii, covering more than 5,200 square kilometres.

Like Iceland, Japan is one of the most active volcanic regions on Earth. It is located above the Pacific Ring of Fire, sitting on top of four tectonic plates on the edge of a subduction zone. About 60 of its 186 volcanoes are still active in geological terms.

One active Japanese volcano popularly on people’s bucket lists is Sakurajima (Cherry Blossom Island) in Kagoshima Bay, appearing to rise more than 1,120 metres directly above the water, this regularly spews ash.

About half a million people live within 10 kilometres of its crater, and taking the spectacular ferry journey to Sakurajima from precariously positioned Kagoshima city is recommended. The volcano is also accessible by road around the periphery of the bay since the former island has been joined to the peninsula since a 1914 eruption spilled out three billion tonnes of lava.

Springing forth

Iceland and Japan are known for their vast number of hot springs which pepper the countryside and are located close to areas of volcanic activity. Here, the water temperature increases through circulation close to magma reservoirs below the surface.

This manifestation of geothermal energy is evident in geysers, bubbling mud pools and hot springs. The mineral content of hot springs is thought to impart health benefits. In Iceland, many hotels offer baths fed by local hot springs. The Viking Pool in Leirubakki is made special with views of Mt Hekla in the background.

Japan places cultural significance on its more than 20,000 hot springs of volcanic origin. Many hot- spring resorts (onsen) follow a tradition going back centuries and are often located next to hiking, skiing, climbing and crater-viewing areas. In Hokkaido, Toyako is famous for its hot-spring baths with lake views.

Not far off, Showa Shinzan is a lava dome that emerged only in 1944, and parent volcano Usuzan stands nearby. The hot springs of Noboribetsu are a memorable must-try. In an amazing spectacle, indoor marble-tiled hot springs fed by geothermal energy at the Dai-ichi Takimotokan Hotel can accommodate 1,000 bathers simultaneously.

Zao Onsen, 20 kilometres southeast of Yamagata City, is an all-year hot-spring resort – go hiking or skiing during the daytime, then chill out before dinner in a mountain hot spring and contemplate the finer things in life.

Crater close-encounters

Famous for its geysers at Rotorua, the hot springs in New Zealand play an important part in the Māori culture, as do the volcanoes. The country offers some spectacular hiking across volcano areas, notably in Tongariro.

Home to three breathtaking volcanoes (Tongariro, Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe), the Tongariro Alpine Crossing has oft been described as the best one-day hike in the world, taking you over red craters, green and blue lakes and wild open countryside. It was briefly closed in 2012 due to volcanic activity from one of the cones.

With close to 130 active volcanoes, Indonesia can also boast some fantastic volcano tourism. There are organised tours to see Anak Krakatau (Child of Krakatau) in the Sunda Strait between Java and Sumatra, though it is now considered a dangerous mountain and access depends on its level of activity.

Mount Merapi is another favourite destination, especially given its proximity to the World Heritage site of Borobudur. Further to the east of Java, watching the sunrise over Mount Bromo – named after Hindu god Brahma – can provide glorious views.

Perhaps lured by the element of danger, tourists have been attracted to volcanoes for centuries. By the mid-1860s, Thomas Cook, the pioneer of package tours, was arranging visits to Pompeii in Italy, and Vesuvius, the volcano that buried it in 79 A.D.

In the 1880s, a funicular was built to take tourists to the top of Vesuvius. Active volcanoes burn on and on in the imagination of adventurous travellers, calling them to the edge of their craters.

Heat Resistance: Tips to keep hydrated and avoid heatstroke as the world gets rapidly warmer

Global warming is not only a threat to the planet as a whole; it also affects the health of every individual inhabitant. July was reportedly the hottest month on record around the globe, and the number of heat-stressed days is only set to increase.

Indeed, a study published in The Lancet estimated that about 356,000 deaths worldwide were related to heat in 2019. And the World Meteorological Organisation is now warning of global warming breaking through the crucial 1.5°C cap above pre-industrial temperatures in the next five years.

With record-tumbling baking-hot spells happening more frequently, it is vital that we keep our cool and take precautions to safeguard our well-being.

Hong Kong warning system

The authorities in Hong Kong are acutely aware of the severity of the situation. A new three tier Heat Stress at Work Warnings system was introduced earlier in the summer to help tackle heatstroke among those working outdoors or without air-conditioning. If the Hong Kong Observatory’s Hong Kong Heat Index (HKHI) hits 30, this will trigger a recommended rest time for each hour of labour depending on whether the workload is “light”, “moderate”, “heavy” or “very heavy” and the level of the alert (amber, red or black). The heat index uses data that considers relative humidity, the intensity of sunlight, temperature and hospitalisation rate.

Workers deemed to be involved in “very heavy” workloads during an amber alert will be recommended to take 45 minutes of rest after working 15 minutes every hour. Those involved in this level of intense physical activity are advised to cease work completely if the HKHI hits 32 or above – red and black warnings. Workers at lower intensity of physical labour would be advised to rest for varying periods of time (or even suspend work).

The warning system is operated by the Labour Department with the Observatory assisting to broadcast the message, which can be received via the GovHK Notifications or MyObservatory mobile applications. The guidelines inherent in the warning system are only voluntary measures, though, and are not legally binding. A construction worker in Hong Kong lost his life from heatstroke this summer during an amber heat alert.

Water everywhere

The Department of Health’s Centre for Health Protection (CHP) consistently urges the community to take heed of necessary measures against heatstroke and sunburn in very hot weather. “The public should carry and drink plenty of water to prevent dehydration while engaging in outdoor activities,” warned a CHP spokesperson recently.

The importance of staying properly hydrated during hot summer days has long been advocated by medical professionals. Water is known to perform vital functions such as regulating body temperature, flushing waste from the body, supporting a healthy immune system, lubricating and cushioning joints, as well as promoting healthy digestion and improving memory, alertness, mood and sleep quality.

Some health experts suggest consuming 13 cups of beverages a day, including water. However, this total depends on the level of activity, climate and overall health. Hot and humid places mean people tend to sweat more and it is important to keep water on hand. Drinking before, during and after a workout is also essential.

Dehydration danger

Tips for optimum hydration include ingesting a glass of water (about 8 fluid ounces) upon waking and before bedtime, drinking throughout the day, infusing water with slices of fruit, vegetables or herbs, and using a favourite water bottle to encourage fluid uptake.

Not all liquids are recommended, though. “Those engaged in strenuous outdoor activities should avoid beverages containing caffeine, such as coffee and tea, as well as alcohol, as they speed up water loss through the urinary system,” said the CHP spokesperson.

The World Health Organization (WHO) advises to check the colour of urine, and to drink more if it is dark. They warn against drinking distilled water as it leaches all-important electrolytes.

Apart from dark urine, there are a multitude of signs of possible dehydration such as thirst, flushed skin, headache, fatigue, increased body temperature, dizziness, irritability, constipation and nausea. Possible options to try to alleviate the situation include drinking electrolyte-infused water, Pedialyte, Gatorade, coconut water and watermelon, which contains 92 percent water.

Combatting heatstroke

Some groups are more vulnerable to heatstroke than others. According to the CHP, children, the elderly, the obese and those with chronic illnesses, such as heart disease or high blood pressure, “should pay special attention”.

These dos and dont’s will help reduce the risk of heatstroke:

– Wear loose and light-coloured clothing to reduce heat absorption and facilitate sweat evaporation and heat dissipation.

– Avoid vigorous exercise and prolonged activities like hiking or trekking as heat, sweating and exhaustion can place additional demands on the physique.

– Perform outdoor activities in the morning or the late afternoon.

– For indoor activities, open all windows, use a fan or use air-conditioning to maintain good ventilation.

– Do not stay inside a parked vehicle.

– Reschedule work to cooler times of the day. If working in a hot environment is inevitable, introduce shade in the workplace where practicable.

– Start work slowly and pick up the pace gradually. Move to a cool area for rest at regular intervals to allow the body to recuperate.

The WHO advises keeping a good supply of medicines, batteries and frozen or tinned food at home to avoid frequent trips to the shops during especially hot days.

Sunlight protection

As the sun blares down on these days of increasing heat, the Ultraviolet (UV) Index released by the Hong Kong Observatory is a helpful tool. When the UV Index is high (6 or above), avoid direct exposure of the skin and the eyes to sunlight.

The following measures will help protect against UV damage when out in the sun:

– Wear long-sleeved and loose-fitting clothes.

– Wear a wide-brimmed hat or use an umbrella.

– Seek a shaded area.

– Don UV-blocking sunglasses.

– Apply liberally a broad-spectrum sunscreen lotion with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or above, and reapply after swimming, sweating or towelling off.

– When using a DEET-containing insect repellent, put on sunscreen first, then the repellent.

Cold comfort

While there is plenty for the public to do and be aware of to adapt to extreme heat, measures on an individual level and government action plans like those adopted in Hong Kong do not tackle the root cause of the problem. Global warming is a result of climate change generated most significantly by greenhouse gas emissions. Until we get serious about curtailing these, our heat stress is only going to get worse.

Strokes Of Genius: 50 years after his passing, the art world muses on Picasso’s magic and missteps

The man, the myth, the misogynist – just three of the few words that best describe Pablo Picasso, one of the world’s most celebrated artists of modern times. The many sides of his life and work come under the spotlight this year as institutions around the globe mark the 50th anniversary of the Spanish artist’s death.

Given that he was originally thought to have stolen the Mona Lisa, it’s safe to assume that the co-founder of Cubism endured early troughs among the peaks of his path to fame. Improbable though it may sound, Picasso was a prime suspect when Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece vanished from the Louvre in 1911. The picture was later found to have been stolen by a former museum employee, but not before Picasso was cast in a doubtful light. It was a low point in what would become a dazzling, high-profile career.

Ever prolific, Picasso created tens of thousands of works of art, experimented with a bewildering variety of styles, and never stopped innovating. His legacy is still exciting and inspiring to artists and art enthusiasts everywhere, and tributes abound half a century after his passing.

The governments of Spain and France, where he spent most of his adult life, have partnered for Célébration Picasso 1973-2023, which embraces some 50 exhibitions and events in Europe and North America. Hong Kong joined in the remembrance by showing a glistening selection of his masterpieces in an intriguing medium.

Sotheby’s, which has championed some of the happenings in this timely retrospective of his work and life, highlights Picasso’s formidable influence as the resident artist of the 20th century – an idiosyncratic eye refracting the turbulence, traumas, dreams and visions of his times into stunning visual statements that challenged convention and still pulsate with energy today.

Naturally, the Musée National Picasso-Paris is central to the year-long salute; it has already held one tribute show masterminded by British designer Paul Smith, while another from French conceptual artist Sophie Calle begins in October. It also opens a Centre for Picasso Studies in the prestigious and newly renovated quarters of Hôtel de Rohan, a short walk from the museum’s equally storied building in the Marais district. This unique resource for the artist and his subjects combines documentation, a library and archives around a research centre and a digital gateway.

Period pieces

When Picasso passed away in 1973, at the age of 91, it was discovered that he kept pieces from all his periods in his 78-year oeuvre. It took seven years to complete an inventory of his works in all media, and many held by his family landed in the hands of the French authorities as payment for inheritance taxes. It was this initial body of work that enabled the Musée National Picasso-Paris to open its doors nearly 40 years ago.

Olivier Widmaier Picasso, the artist’s grandson, gathered exclusive testimonies, historical records and personal photos from this time to make a new documentary entitled Picasso, The Legacy. Sponsored by Sotheby’s, it is an intimate exposure of the man and the splendour of his artistry.

Bohemian romance

Another way to glean more about the artist’s life is through ‘Picasso’s Montmartre with Le Meurice, Celebrating 50 Years’, an experience that combines an overnight stay at the grand hotel in Paris with a guided walking tour that propels art enthusiasts back in time to the hedonistic, bohemian era of the Belle Époque. When Pablo Picasso married Russian ballerina and early muse Olga Khokhlova in 1918, the wedding reception was held at the hotel and it was the season’s biggest affair.

Le Meurice’s expert guide succeeds in opening minds to the romance and derring-do of the youthful non-conformist in the early 1900s. When he first arrived in Paris, Picasso was regarded with suspicion as a foreigner and watched by the French police for his supposed anarchist leanings. During the walk, anecdotes are shared and landmarks are highlighted while tracing his ootsteps through the cobblestone alleyways of Montmartre where he once lived and painted.

Changing with the ages

More than five decades later, in 1961, Picasso married Jacqueline Roque, the face that launched more than 400 portraits completed in the dozen years before his death. Museum Casa Natal Picasso in Málaga, Spain – the artist’s hometown – stages The Ages of Pablo, a chronological and stylistic overview of works from his formative years to the time spent with his second wife.

Picasso is revealed through his paintings, sketches, sculptures, ceramics and photographs, all of which have enduring value. Demonstrating his dynamic ability to convey life and emotion, the exhibition is divided into eight sections corresponding to the major phases of his art, including ‘Blue and Pink’, ‘Cubism’, ‘Classicism’, ‘Surrealism’, ‘Wartime’ and ‘The Joy of Living’.

Glass act

Here at home, Hong Kongers were able to join the momentous commemoration as a summer exhibition, Pablo Picasso: Paintings in Glass, threw light on some of his most-known painterly compositions. A collaboration between the University Museum and Art Gallery of the University of Hong Kong and the French May Arts Festival, it paid tribute not only to the iconic artist but also to the art form of gemmail.

A type of stained-glass mosaic developed by French painter Jean Crotti and perfected in the workshop of Roger Malherbe-Navarre, gemmail involves the expert assembly and melting of meticulously chosen pieces of glass. When Picasso first witnessed the gemmistes’ endeavour in 1954, he exclaimed, “A new art is born!” Enthused, he proceeded to layer shards of glass into graphical representations of more than 50 of his existing paintings.

The 50th anniversary of Picasso’s passing is, above all, a tremendous opportunity to honour his creative legacy while also challenging key events in his life, particularly his relationships with women who became his muses and lovers. “People were happy to be consumed by him,” his daughter Paloma Picasso, the jewellery designer, has said. “They thought it was a privilege. If you get too close to the Sun, it burns you. But the Sun can’t help being the Sun.” As evidenced by many of his life documentations, Picasso cared primarily for his creations, but what creations they were!

Photos: University Museum and Art Gallery, The University of Hong Kong

Sure Hammer: Having been around the auction block for 27 years, Robert Sleigh now drives Philips forward in Asia

It was perhaps a “somewhat undercover” wine-appreciation society started by Robert Sleigh and a schoolfriend that heralded an illustrious career spanning the idyllic vineyards of France, the hurly-burly of New York, and now the international melting pot of Hong Kong.

Aptly ensconced in smart new headquarters at WKCDA Tower in Hong Kong’s cultural hub, the Managing Director, Asia, of Phillips talks fondly of those early years. Sleigh’s brief now extends beyond the world’s finest bottles as he oversees the regional strategy of the historic auction house known for its 20th-century and contemporary art and luxury sales.

The Briton’s early passion for wine steered him into a driving job in London with wine merchant Haynes, Hanson & Clark. Crucially, the role allowed him to take his Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) exams, as at the time only those employed in the trade could sit them. Then, as the UK economy stagnated in the early ’90s recession, he sought broader experience that would differentiate him from the crowd. Meeting some Burgundy producers at a wine-tasting event, he promptly asked if he could work for them.

Burgundy benefits

Sleigh found himself at a small domain in Beaune where the grapes were handpicked from its own vineyard and the wine crafted and bottled onsite. “I did one viticultural year in a way; it was vineyard work and cellar work, and when I first got there, they were still pruning the vines,” he recalls.

The labour was rewarding and he learnt the essentials of vinification. “Winemaking is 90% cleaning,” he says with a smile. “It is cleaning everything spotless so that you do not get bacteria in the wine and it all turns to vinegar.”

He spent three years in France and is now an unashamed Francophile who would happily drink only French wine. His second job in Burgundy was at Maison Louis Latour, a leading négociant-éleveur with many English-speaking buyers. He liaised with clients and assisted with customer service and marketing.

US points

It was this experience that likely helped Sleigh secure a “career-defining” move to the US, where in 1996 he joined the wine department of Sotheby’s auction house in New York. Aside from demand for the cult wines of Napa Valley, he noted other distinct differences in the US wine market compared to Europe. “The Americans are very much led by critic scores; the likes of Robert Parker at the time, who exerted a very powerful influence. They are buying on the 100-point scoring system,” he says.

Hong Kong hub

He was called to Asia in 2010 to manage the huge demand in the Hong Kong wine auction sector following the reduction and then elimination of tax on wine in the territory.

With the West still reeling from the 2007-2008 Global Financial Crisis, coupled with the pent-up demand for Western luxury goods from Chinese consumers with huge disposable incomes, this “perfect storm” propelled Hong Kong into the wine hub of Asia.

“The wine market has never seen anything like it and probably never will again,” says Sleigh, relating how prices took off and Hong Kong became the most important market within 18 months. “Just the amount of stimulus that happened then – it was an extraordinary time.”

Auction house

After more than 25 years at Sotheby’s, Sleigh assumed his new position with Phillips at the start of the year, tasked with a broader role in the art and luxury sector. Asian-based clients clinch about a third of Phillips’ sales, and he believes their new Asia headquarters with a purpose-built exhibition space – the largest premises of any auction house in Hong Kong – increases their visibility and power in the Asian market. “Being the first auction house to have our own permanent galleries and auction room leaves no doubt about how committed Phillips is to Asia,” he stresses.

This site, occupying the lower six floors of WKCDA Tower near the M+ museum and the Hong Kong Palace Museum, has definite advantages. “The possibilities that this location holds for Phillips are endless, especially as the West Kowloon Cultural District continues to expand and thrive,” he says. “We are excited to be at the heart of it and play an active role in its evolution.”

Early indications suggest the move to West Kowloon will be a successful one. Phillips’ 20th Century & Contemporary Art exhibition in March and April, as well as previews of watch and jewellery lots, attracted 30,000 visitors, and their inaugural evening sale there yielded notable results – Yoshitomo Nara’s Lookin’ for a Treasure sold for HK$84 million, and Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkin fetched HK$56 million.

Asian ascendency

According to Sleigh, the art world once operated in two separate ecosystems – East and West – but Hong Kong is now part of a unified global market, with a huge collecting base that extends from Asia to all parts of the world and vice-versa. He talks of a transformation of the playing field: “It now comes as no surprise that the highest-value lot in our long history – a masterwork by Jean-Michel Basquiat – came from the collection of Yusaku Maezawa and was sold to another collector based in Asia for US$85 million.”

Since arriving at Phillips, Sleigh has noted a much younger clientele viewing contemporary art, 20th-century art, design, photographs and watches compared to those interested in wine. He is excited by how collecting is becoming integral to the Asian lifestyle – with many people travelling to the art fairs in Taipei, Tokyo, Seoul and Singapore – and sees huge growth potential and less of a weight of tradition in the art market here.

Sales drivers

Eternally fascinated by the cycle of the auction industry, Sleigh has conducted literally hundreds of sales during his career. He believes the auction ritual remains “a compelling call to action” for unique and valuable items and will always play a role when there is competition for a desirable collectible. There are those who say that all auctioneers are frustrated actors, and though Sleigh remains unconvinced by this characterisation, he concedes he has known some who like “being there in front of the world!”

He describes how having fallen asleep on a plane whilst watching the documentary The Truffle Hunters, he woke with a start, possibly due to hearing his own voice eerily on the headphones. It transpired that the director had taken an excerpt from a recording of a truffle auction for charity he performs every year.

Indeed, charity is close to his heart. He is regularly involved in charity auctions and his wife, Libby Alexander, is the co-founder and CEO of Splash Foundation, which provides swimming lessons to those in need. “We are lucky we live in Hong Kong and we are very fortunate in many ways,” he says. “There are a lot of people who are less fortunate, so I think it is important [to give back].”

Interview by: Neil Dolby Photographer: Jack Law Art Direction: Joseff Musa Fashion Stylist: Jhoshwa Ledesma Videographer:Jack Fontanilla Hair & Make Up: Owen Ko Venue: Phillips Asia HQ in West Kowloon

Bleu De France: Belon shifts the epicentre of Hong Kong’s French food a little closer to the 10th arrondissement

There are grand French fine dining rooms, and then there is Belon. The path it has travelled has taken many detours. When the restaurant opened, its goal was to be a French bistro, not a Michelin starred establishment, however, it quickly developed a following.

Cut to 2020, Chef de Cuisine Jacob Zuidervliet and the rest of the gastronomic geniuses behind Belon’s highly praised reputation extended the rustic luxe interior design, the ingredient provenance, and the preparation-focused dishes that have graced the pages of many publications and social media to a dining destination accessed via Elgin Street in SoHo.

Given the hip neighbourhood locale, Belon still exudes a surprisingly exuberating fine-dining aesthetic with plaster artwork revealing a history of the fleur-de-lis motif. At the same time, it pegs itself as a homey, unhurried restaurant with an easygoing vibe – courtesy of the ’90s and early noughties hip-hop music in the background – that hides the greater ambitions of the chefs.

“I like to think that we are introducing guests to something they would expect in the grand restaurants of France, both in terms of culinary execution and service in our intimate SoHo dining room,” says Chef Jacob, “We are focused on building a restaurant experience where there is no sleight of hand or showmanship; it is about providing solid, friendly service and food that is prepared with excellence and presented in a way that is sincere to its origin.”

*Dungeness Crab with White Asparagus and Caviar*

With month-on-month menu updates, the cascading a la carte supports this endless dedication, smoothly flowing from apéro or predinner, to a tasting menu and latenight drinks while featuring distinctive and modern French staples.

The team stretches the limits of a tiny kitchen, working the wood-fired oven over time. Precision is the driving force to their efficiency and everything must be timed so that the heat levels can quickly adjust.

A case in point is Cervelas en Brioche, smooth pork sausage cooked inside brioche dough, the chef’s personal favourite from his vast list of creations. The commitment to quality, though, starts long before anything is fired up. “It is a deceptively simple dish when it is served, but the amount of time, practice and technique that goes into preparing it is staggering. It is an excellent representation of our style of food, simple-looking but complex in flavour and technique.”

Though French, Belon brings inventive Asian touches to a playful menu. On our visit, we begin with the unabashedly French starters of Smoked Saba (mackerel) with Shishito Pepper and Yellow Courgette; Dungeness Crab with White Asparagus and Caviar; and Canadian Spot Prawn with Ravioli and Champagne Sauce.

A medley of mains comes right after: the bistro inspired Kinmedai with Cassoulet and Lardo di Colonnata; Hokkaido Scallop with Morel Farci and Sauce Hollandaise; and Quercy Lamb Saddle with Walnut and Swiss Chard.

These are the temptations that will make first-timers and regulars return for more. However, the true highlights of Belon’s taste test come in the form of Whole Roasted Chicken with Petits Pois à la Française; and Miyazaki Wagyu Striploin with Pomme Aumônière and Sauce Barigoule.

*Miyazaki Wagyu Striploin with Pomme Aumônière and Sauce Barigoule*

We close with an assortment of decadent desserts such as Gâteau Basque with Sherry and Foie Gras; Rhum Baba with Mango; Honey and Passion Fruit Millefeuille; and Black Truffle Gâteau Marjolaine. A portfolio of wines and other tipples complete the culinary escapade.

A faultless dinner recommendation, Belon is infused with a deep indigo hue and understated floral arrangements, while hints of underwater geometries of fish scales, coral and sponges recall found pieces from an abandoned shipwreck that serve as inspiration for its name and the dishes. More than good food and beyond a gateway to French cuisine, this restaurant proves that it is possible to give the level of attention palates deserve.

Belon, 1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street, SoHo, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2152 2872

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Belon Video: Jack Fontanilla

Social Paradise

A dazzling Oasis in NUSA DUA: THE MULIA, MULIA RESORT & VILLAS

The Mulia Bali resort, which is situated on the isolated beach of Nusa Dua, provides guests with three five-star experiences. The Mulia offers a luxury beachside refuge with an outstanding infinity pool, while Mulia Resort offers dining, leisure, and business amenities. With private villas and individualized butler service, Mulia Villas offers exclusivity and luxury. The award-winning Bali beach resort provides four swimming pools, world-class culinary experiences, and unique access to the island’s longest oceanfront infinity pool. While the cutting-edge Fitness Centre offers daily programs taught by qualified teachers, the award-winning spa offers luxurious treatments and wellness rooms. The hotel also provides a variety of beach activities. In accordance with WHO recommendations, Mulia Bali implements updated safety and health standards to provide a relaxing and delightful vacation in paradise.

The Ultimate Work-Life Balance

The ability to work from any place is undoubtedly something that technology has enabled us to achieve and has become popular in recent years. And where better to do that than Bali, a tropical haven? The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas – Nusa Dua, Bali, a multi-award winning beachfront resort, should be at the top of your list of locations to be in order to work remotely. It is situated on the rather quiet beach of Nusa Dua, Bali. Here are the main arguments for choosing this opulent resort as the location of your future mobile office.

Sole Creators: The shoe fits perfectly when it’s painstakingly custom-made by dedicated artisans

Owning a pair of bespoke shoes can be a transformative experience. They are markers of superior craftsmanship, unmatched comfort and individual style. Unlike mass-produced shoes, bespoke footwear is crafted to your precise measurements, ensuring an impeccable fit that enhances your posture and provides unparalleled comfort. To add to this feeling of pleasure, greater artistry and attention to detail go into making bespoke shoes, resulting in a product that stands out from the crowd while also reflecting your unique personality and taste.

With their exceptional quality and durability, bespoke shoes also offer an investment that will last for years to come. For those who want to put their best foot forward in the future, there are shoemakers in Hong Kong who will meticulously craft a pair to your exact specifications.

Shoe Artistry

Backed by science and elevated by style, Shoe Artistry’s mission is to make personalised shoes that perfectly fit your feet. For this, it takes multiple measurements of both feet to ensure that even microscopic differences between the left and the right are not overlooked. To further increase the accuracy, the shoemakers employ a special foot-scanning technology called Phits which uses sensors to determine your gait pattern, thus collecting an analysis of the different pressure points formed while you walk. This is then 3D printed into insoles that are unique to your feet. Such avant-garde techniques and painstaking precision to detail not only ensure the finest fit for your bespoke beauties, they also eliminate any orthopaedic pain, regardless of how long you walk.

After determining all the necessary measurements, the shoemaker assists you in finding the right material. Options are presented within two classifications – either vegetable-tanned leather, which is made by processing animal hide with plant proteins, or vegan leather, which uses plant-based or synthetic materials instead of animal skin.

Next comes deciding between a Goodyear welt or Blake stitch, the two techniques used to connect the upper leather to the outsoles. In the Goodyear construction, a welt is sewn onto the edges of the upper leather under which the outsole is added, thus allowing for the outsole to be replaced without deconstructing the entire shoe. Inversely, Blake stitching is when the outsole is stitched directly to the midsole. Since the latter option does not have a welt, Blake-stitched shoes are more flexible and have a sleek appearance.

Once the material and construction of the shoe have been established, the artisan focuses on design choices, funnelling down the preferred colour, texture and other details. Once all the specifications are set, shoes will be made in six to eight weeks. Men’s shoes are priced upwards of HK$11,300, while women’s start at HK$5,300.

To order, call +852 2796 6018, WhatsApp +852 6159 4670 or email hi@shoeartistry.com.

Kow Hoo Shoe Company

A pioneer in local shoemaking, Kow Hoo Shoe Company has its origins in 1920s Shanghai and moved to Hong Kong in 1946, so it might be your first resort for a custom-made pair if you are inclined to support local craftsmen. It is also where famous names like architect I.M. Pei and business magnate Li Ka-shing go for their bespoke shoes.

Owning your very first pair begins with a meeting at their shop in Prince’s Building where the in-house shoemaker gains a better understanding of your foot morphology through fastidious measurements and noting your preferences for design, colour, texture and construction. Once all the required information is gathered, crafting begins at their Quarry Bay workshop where your ideas will come into form.

Devoted to producing shoes that fit your feet like a glove, the shoemakers will first make a trial pair using wooden lasts they have carved from your measurements – Kow Hoo claims to be the only shop in Hong Kong still making wooden lasts for each individual customer. Only after you are 100 per cent satisfied with the trial pair will they start making the actual pair that will become yours. Until then, as many adjustments as you want in terms of fitting and design will be accommodated. Expert cobblers then hand-sew each pair with immense dedication.

As a result of their priority in producing shoes that are exemplary and cherished, the entire process can take up to six months. Pricing starts at HK$18,000, but it is certainly worth the wait and cost. Moreover, after you buy your first pair, your lasts will be stored for at least seven years, thus significantly reducing the length of craftsmanship for subsequent pairs.

To order, visit Kow Hoo Shoe Company, Shop 341, 3/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong. Call ahead on +852 2523 0489 for an appointment or email kowhoo@hotmail.

Berluti

For those looking beyond Hong Kong for custom-made indulgence, Berluti boasts a history spanning more than 120 years, and its bespoke footwear has become a significant part of the brand identity. The French Maison is renowned for its dedication and finesse; its cobblers spend at least 50 hours and perform more than 250 procedures to create one pair of bespoke shoes.

Your personal shoemaking journey begins at a meeting when measurements are taken and much more – they also want to know about you, so they can craft a pair to match your feet, your lifestyle and your personality. You will also discuss the material, design and other features you would like reflected in your shoes.

Given that Berluti encourages an innovative mindset, you can broach unique ideas and choose from a wide range of materials, from classic Venezia leather to rarities like bullfrog skin. But if you are oblivious to what might look good, or what is fashionable, the artisan will guide you through the selection process. They will then create hornbeam wood lasts, which at the end of the process are delivered to you in a wooden box along with your personalised pair of shoe trees.

With Berluti crafting all their shoes in Paris, travelling shoemakers will meet clients in different parts of the world, including Hong Kong, so the first step is to request an appointment through the brand’s website. Since there is a high demand for bespoke shoes, the entire detail-oriented process can take about six months. The price tag for a bespoke pair starts at HK$67,000 and can go as high as HK$300,000.

To order, book an appointment on berluti.com.