Spice Fixing – The inventive dishes at the Gaylord Indian Restaurant keep getting better

Ask an Indian friend where to find the best Indian food in Hong Kong and the prompt answer will be: “At our house.” It is not feasible, though, to show up at a friend’s home, let alone unannounced, whenever we crave Indian food. Within the bustling cityscape of Tsim Sha Tsui, the thriving local Indian community has unabashedly and generously shared its culinary heritage with those of us who can’t get enough of the country’s spice-infused favourites. A standout among all of these establishments is the Gaylord Indian Restaurant, which has been operating since 1972.

“We have kept our menu true to its Indian roots while also adapting to the change of times in food trends,” says owner and general manager Rajeev Bhasin. “It makes my heart full when I see frequent customers now have grandkids that they also bring here. I hope we’ll have another 50 years to celebrate with them.”

Like its palatable offerings, Gaylord’s interior design makes a lasting impression. A wall of art and gold photo frames and a golden Ganesha greet diners, beckoning the way into what is seemingly a two-room design. The restaurant proudly displays a dazzling new façade via peacock teal and bright orange upholstered booths and chairs that contrast with the salmon-pink walls. Envisioned to be a place with a lot of colours, the overall effect pays tribute to both India’s history and modern culture. The previously wood-carved pillar partitions now breathe new life, dangling as accents to the already exceptional ceilings. It is with this consideration of detail that diners will encounter the intimacy of Gaylord’s India with a touch of Hong Kong influence. The space is, indeed, a veritable feast for the eyes and any Instagram feed.

Of course, it’s the food that is the real star here, where authentic recipes have been tweaked to perfection for a one-of-a-kind Indian dining experience. Indian cuisine is, after all, among the world’s most enticing due to its vibrant colours and unusual spices. It has alternatives that suit every palate and diet and is distinctive while still being diversified. Such is the wonder of the 50th-anniversary tasting menu created by guest Master Chef Sanjeev Kapoor, which is unassumingly divided into categories like Relish, Amuse Bouche, Appetisers, Tandoori & Kabab Course, Main Course and Dessert.

Chilli Pineapple Sambal and Poppadum paired with Prawn Balchao Puri with Solkadhi [note: the menu online says Mushroom] make a great introduction to this spice-centred show. The soft, hollow dough balls are stuffed with prawns sprinkled with Goan spices and ooze with kokum-flavoured coconut milk. Vegetable Samosa, the ubiquitous Indian street snack that is a Gaylord classic, makes a cameo, its fried coned pastry filled with spiced potatoes and green peas.

The harmony of both flavour and fragrance continues with Lemongrass Paneer Malai Tikka. Chunks of tandoor-grilled homemade cottage cheese with a hint of lemongrass and cream complement the stuffed kidney-bean cakes blended with aromatic spices of Rajma Bean Galouti Kabab, which come atop masala-baked bread.

Like many Indian dishes, the renditions at Gaylord often come in pairs. Truffle Dum Jackfruit, subtly spiced and slowly cooked with coconut milk and truffle cream, is accompanied by Saffron Basmati Pulao Rice. Another flavourful favourite pairing is Shaam Savera with Smoked Pepper Makhani and Baby Beetroot and Walnut Raita. A signature main of the celebrity chef, the creamy balls are rolled in spinach purée and presented on a bed of smoked pepper sauce. Also of note are saucy Indian staples like black dal, which Kapoor elevates in Lalla Mussa Dal. The 36-hour slow-cooked green and black lentil dish, enlivened with a blend of aromatic herbs, is best enjoyed with freshly baked naan stuffed with ricotta cheese and truffle pâté.

To satisfy anyone’s sweet tooth, Baked Jaggery Yogurt with Peach and Walnut ends this degustation demonstration with a wow. If that still isn’t enough, then make sure to save a little space for the cardamom- and saffron-infused homemade ice cream, Kesar Kulfi – one of the original offerings from the restaurant’s launch just over 50 years ago.

GAYLORD INDIAN RESTAURANT, 5/F, Prince Tower, 12A Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2376 1001

Photos: Gay Lord Indian Restaurant

The Best Food and Wine Pairings: Which wine goes well with which dish?

Both chefs and food lovers would agree that a dish must be relished and people should be able to appreciate the food’s different flavours, and wines have often been a trusted way to bring out a dish’s optimal taste. Case in point, many tasting menus created by fine dining restaurants will serve a glass of white or red that would complement the dish on the plate.

While you can pair food with a drink from your personal wine collection or the one you newly bought from the store, some of these connoisseur-picked food and wine combinations will certainly impress your taste buds.

Peking Duck and Pinot Noir

Food enthusiasts have different opinions when picking a wine bottle that matches perfectly with this popular Chinese dish, but the most common pick has always been Pinot Noir. This is because Peking Ducks have a rich salty and savoury taste to them due to the hoisin sauce that is added to the crispy duck meat. So, a wine like Pinot Noir which has a relatively high amount of acidity to it balances out the roasted duck’s intense flavours, making this one of the most favoured food and wine combinations.

Shellfish and Japanese Koshu Wine

This wine variety that originates from Japan has subtle notes of fruitiness allowing people to feel the refreshing taste of white grapes and apples in each sip with the Koshu wine being produced at a specific altitude and temperature. Such flavours, in combination with its low acidity, make this white wine variety a perfect drink to pair with shellfish dishes, which are often cooked with a thick layer of butter, as the food and the wine balance each other out. To enjoy the best of this wine pairing, you may want to try the Michelin-starred restaurant Arcane’s Lightly Cured Hokkaido Scallops with a glass of the Grace Wine Gris de Koshu 2021 which Chef Shane Osborn has featured in Arcane’s limited-edition menu in collaboration with CulinArt 1862 that is exclusively only available on the 17th and 18th of May.

Raclette and Burgundy Chardonnay

Another food and wine pairing that has been recommended by top chefs for the light texture of the wine to balance out the heaviness of the dish is the Raclette paired with a glass or more of Burgundy Chardonnay. For those unfamiliar, the Raclette is a classic French dish that is made by melting the Raclette cheese and eaten in combination with boiled potatoes, meat, pickles and spices. With the dish obviously being packed with calories and rich in flavours, a French wine like Bourgogne blanc has citrus notes and a subtle saltiness that make it go well with something heavy like a traditional Raclette.

Wagyu Steak and Rioja Red Wine

Red wines have often been voted as the best wine to be paired with steaks, and apparently, there is a scientific reason for it. Red wines have a substance called tannins, particularly strong in the younger wines, which has a molecular structure that helps to melt fats, thus when paired with a dish like steak, it brings out the taste to the fullest by cutting into this thick layer of meat. True to this technique is Chef Stanley Wong’s recommended pairing – Binchotan-Grilled Australian Wagyu Striploin with Finca La Emperatriz Las Cenizas 2018 which can also be enjoyed at CulinArt 1862’s six-course tasting menu that has been created alongside Arcane.

The Roe Down: Handcrafted with feeling, Artifact presents artistic yet approachable caviar-infused Japanese cuisine

Tucked away below Central’s traffic horns and meandering pedestrians – along what has become the go-to canteen of people in stilettos and navy suits – is Artifact, a newly opened upscale chef’s table Japanese restaurant uniting the different variations of caviar with fine dishes. Paired harmoniously with jet-fresh ingredients flown directly from Japan, this whole caviar experience is savoured at a deep-blue upholstered 14-seat dining counter and ultra-sleek contemporary speakeasy bar set within a casual basement food hall. These diverse concepts converge in the creative mind of Chef Sato Kiyoshi, whose vision has brought eccentric Japanese cuisine to the energetic epicentre of Hong Kong – in the depths of BaseHall 02 in Jardine House.

It is the quality of food and ingredients presented in a delectable style that sets Artifact apart from the hundreds of other Japanese restaurants scattered around the city. In true Japanese fashion, calling in an artisanal expert like Chef Kiyoshi was an important puzzle piece in its realisation. Scrimping on quality is never an option for the head chef, who says of his edible masterpieces: “It’s a combination of texture, foundation, ingredients and balance. For me, a perfect dish is always driven by a feeling or an inspiration.”

The speakeasy bar offers separate and interchangeable menus; it is only at the chef’s table that a single menu is strictly adhered to, omakase-style. However, with an intricacy based upon ‘shun’ – the Japanese philosophy of seasonality – the menu adapts constantly to fold in the finest produce on the market. “We are an ingredients-focussed restaurant, so the menu changes according to what is the best for the season,” says Kiyoshi. “From the first menu to the next one, for instance, we changed chocolate and coffee dessert to milk and ginger, and wagyu to tenderloin.” It is often said that we eat with our eyes first. At Artifact, the food looks just as good as it tastes and all the dishes are pretty spectacular. And so, the caviar chronicle begins. With a name defined as a handmade object or the remains of one, Artifact takes pride in the craftwork that goes into the construction of each tasting menu – both for its four-course lunch and eight-course dinner.

Also Read: Omakase Code: Understanding is the key to enjoying Hong Kong’s hottest Japanese food fad

The four-course set embraces appetisers of Miso Cheese with Baerii Caviar, and Namerou, Goma and Kaluga Caviar, followed by a choice of entrée between Polmard Beef with Kaki Potato and Obsiblue Prawn with Ginger Orange Ponzu and Oyster. For the main course, there are options of Hokkaido Pork, Carrot and Wakami; Toothfish, Kabocha and Razor Clams; or Wagyu with Maitake and Soy, along with a traditional Tamago Kake Gohan (Japanese egg and rice) to accompany the meal and a seasonal dessert to wrap it up.

Caviar is central to the dinner journey, where the dégustation menu includes highlights such as Namerou and Goma with Kaluga; Takoyaki and Rakkyo with Ossetra; and Carabineros with Smoked Miso Cream and Baerii. Kinmedai, Kabu and Yuzu is another wonderful course. If the caviar rush becomes too much, a carefully curated wine list spans an international selection of Champagnes, rosés, whites and reds to cool racing minds and calm overworked taste buds.

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The ambience is chic and bustling, catering to smart mid-towners in need of a Japanese fix. The act of sitting around a counter enhances the Artifact experience, as Kiyoshi elaborates: “We aim to offer the best dining experience as we can with the counter dining setting. It gives me and my team more opportunities to interact with customers. Diners can also see what’s brewing behind the kitchen and the preparation that goes into each dish.”

The truth of these words is evident as human connections extend from those relaxed at the counter enjoying their food to everyone labouring diligently within to create it. In a city like Hong Kong, where life whizzes by at almost twice the speed of a watch’s tick, Artifact stands apart because warmth, style and artfulness abound throughout the entire place. It lives in the buzzy dining room, the service, the interiors and, above all, in the sumptuous, well-considered meals. It is a scene and a dining room you want to lean into, linger over and – without question – indulge in.

Artifact, Shop 5 and 7, LG/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong. +852 6468 8762. artifactbar.com

(Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Artifact)

Pazzi Isshokenmei- Fine dining with a cultural blend

Celebrate the festive season and your special occasions by indulging in the Japanese-Italian fine dining experience at Pazzi Isshokenmei. Merging Japanese ideals with Italian culinary traditions, the restuarant offers a unique take on a cuisine that blends Asian and European flavours. Located in the heart of Hong Kong, the amazing ambience makes meals all the more enjoyable. Relish their UNI FEAST UMAKASI, a 7 course meal, each paired with the Japanese thick, creamy delicacy UNI freshly imported from Japan. Delectable dishes with artistic food presentation will make for a perfect celebration and enviable photos.

Address: 2/F, Queen’s Road Central

Traditional Italian recipes combine deliciously with modern techniques in Cantina

In Hong Kong, gourmands will never find themselves short of new flavours, new hotspots and even new mixes of cultures. The list of Italian restaurants alone is long enough to stretch the length of Hollywood Road and beyond. Still, we find ourselves going back to the warm, hearty cuisine of Italy – always determined to find the best pastas, the tastiest pizzas and the most mouth-watering gelato and tiramisu.

gafencu-dining-taste-italian-traditional-modern-sicilian-tai-kwun-hongkong — Photo courtesy of Aqua Restaurant Group

Over at Tai Kwun, the former Central Police Headquarters, the site serves as no better a place to bring traditional and modern together. This is exactly what Aqua Group has done with Cantina, a new addition to its stable of restaurants. Cantina, which translates to canteen, is perfectly situated within the location’s former dining hall.

gafencu-dining-taste-italian-traditional-modern-sicilian-tai-kwun-hongkong-Luca Schiavone — Photo courtesy of Aqua Restaurant Group

Here, classic Italian dishes are served with the occasional surprising twist – “wow-factor” is what Luca Schiavone, Cantina’s executive chef calls it. Having only landed in Hong Kong in February, Chef Luca brings the flavours of his native Sicily to this warm, casual eatery. “We try to stay traditional but we also play with consistency and presentation. The goal is to have an explosion of flavours with every bite”, says Chef Luca.

One example is the Sicilian Red Prawn Carpaccio. The dish features sweet Southern red prawns, complemented by fruity pomegranate jelly and further elevated with dollops of sumptuous caviar and Italy’s finest Bronte pistachios from Mount Etna, before finishing with lemon zest. Light but savoury with a hint of sweetness, this was just enough to rouse us for the next dish.

Impressively, the majority of pastas on the menu are homemade to respect the Italian culture of cooking al dente. However, the Linguine with Clams & Mullet Bortarga we had sampled was cooked with a dry pasta sourced from Italy, which to our surprise still offered a perfectly chewy and firm texture. Its starchier content (compared to freshly made pasta) gives the dish a creamier texture that perfectly complements the simplicity of its white wine, chili, garlic and butter sauce. The driving force of its rich flavours though was the clam juice which was filtered out and mixed into the sauce – rounding up the dish with a savoury punch of umami.

The pièce de résistance of our experience was the theatrical table-side service that came with the Breaded Veal Cutlet and Salt Baked Sea Bass with Vegetable Caponata. The scrumptious deep-fried Milanese veal cutlet hovered over on a charcuterie board and was cut table-side – crisply crunching with every slice. Cooked in clarified butter and garnished with fried rosemary, the dish was then drizzled with a squeeze of lemon juice for piquancy, oozing with a combination of sweet and nutty flavours.

The fish was a showstopper. Arriving within a thick layer of salted pastry that was set ablaze, then skillfully doused and cracked open to reveal the sea bass that was expertly deboned and delicately plated. It was served alongside a sweet and sour caponata, a traditionally Sicilian vegetable appetiser. The plate’s mix of eggplants, olives, onions and sweet red pepper seasoned with herbs, olive oil and sweet and sour dressing (agrodolce sauce) perfectly balanced the freshness of the sea bass with fruity and tangy notes.

No Italian fare is complete without a sweet ending. In this case, it was the Table Side Tiramisu. Literally meaning pick-me-up in Italian, tiramisu was the perfect finale to a satisfyingly carnivorous meal. When it comes to beloved classic recipes that have travelled beyond its borders and endured centuries of reinvention, some dishes are best kept as its original form, delighting the palate with a sense of home and momma in the kitchen. Thankfully this classic tiramisu was just that.

Moist with coffee, its savoiardi (ladyfingers) is delicate and fully absorbed with the creamy mixture of eggs, sugar, and mascarpone cheese before being dusted with cocoa powder. Perhaps the only blip in the sensational experience was that after a couple of bites, it was a tad too sweet to finish off; but given the calories we had happily consumed by that point, it might have been for the best.

Cantina. 1/F, Block 1, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Rd., Central. aquarestaurantgroup.co.uk/cantina

(Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio)

Han Sweet Han: Hansik Goo celebrates its 2nd anniversary with a Michelin Star

What takes a food experience into the next realm, is the emotion it evokes and the stories it tells. A truly special dining experience can bring to mind the first bite of a fondly remembered dish, or the ambience of a simple, cosy dining room can recall family meals at home.

At Hansik Goo, the idea of sharing a meal and serving authentic Korean flavours are two pillars that bring together a holistic dining experience. So much so that it had earned its first Michelin star this year, making it the first Korean restaurant into the Michelin Guide Hong Kong & Macau. It is also head chef Steve Lee’s first Michelin star since taking over the helm from successor and founding chef Mingoo Kang two years ago. The third pillar to this fast-rising local favourite is a modern touch that completes the circle.

Despite being Korean, Hansik Goo is chef Lee’s first Korean culinary experience. “Korean cuisine is my home food – I have the background, the memory and the palate. These help me bring together authentic Korean flavours, while my experience in western cuisine allows me to add a modern twist to it”, says Lee. Celebrating its second anniversary, we tuck into the restaurant’s tempting seasonal Korean flavours and the signature dishes that have won over the hearts of their diners over the last two years.

Kicking off our tasting menu with a delicate start, the Fish Mandu arrived with an intriguing composition. Serving seasonal blackthroat seaperch stuffed with pork and a generous layer of pork floss in cho-ganjang sauce, each bite offered an interesting combination of sweet, tangy and rich umami – gently delivered by the tender fish meat, and finished with the sensational pork floss that dissolves in the mouth.

Next to the table was the Korean Fried Chicken, a popular add-on to the seasonal menu and the hero dish that carried the eatery through the Covid-19 pandemic’s dining restrictions. At first bite, we understand why. Simple and homey, yet perfectly juicy and tender with the right balance of batter and meat – a rarity in the city. The deep fried chicken was paired with sparsely battered eggplant and drizzled with yuza jang which gave the dish a refreshingly deep flavour that remained light and not overwhelming to the palate.

We then shifted attention to the signature Samgye Risotto 2.0. Welcoming the season of morel mushroom in its iconic chicken roulade, the dish was completed with slices of steamed South African abalone sumptuously brushed with house-made Korean prickly-ash butter and coriander, and a serving of Ginseng infused glutinous rice. Cheekily referred to as ‘the risotto’, the rich flavours of each component stands out but also comes together in a harmonious combination of flavours.

Following up with the last main dish, the Pork Duo is laid across the table complete with a brass bowl of Yukhweh Bibimbap and a series of house-fermented and house-made condiments that added depth in flavour to the overall dish. Showcasing two types of grilled pork: ganjang Iberico pork chop and gochujang marinated pork neck, and served alongside a refreshing Dallae (wild rocambol, or garlic leaves), the house-made sauces recalls childhood and family dinners around the grill. A tender memory elevated by the bibimbap that was served with an assortment of fresh vegetables and mouth-watering beef tartare.

The best was saved next to last, with the arrival of chef Mingoo’s sensational signature dessert, Jang Trio. A creative composition of sweet crystallised Doenjang crème brÛlée, an ultra-light and airy home-made vanilla ice cream, and ganjang glazed pecan and gochujang powder as garnish – a perfect marriage of textures and flavours.

For the finalé, we were treated to Dagwa, a delicious assortment of refreshments to end the meal – with a touch of finesse to elevate the array of sweets. A warm sip of Korean mulberry leaf tea perfectly complimented a plate of savoury black sesame dasik, sweet yakgwa and strawberry jeonggwa. We ended our charming dinner at Hansik Goo with the kind of contentment that brings back the comforting warmth of home.

Hansik Goo. 1/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central. (852) 2798 8768. hansikgoo.hk

(Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio)

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare

There’s an exciting new entry into the 2022 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants guide that has gained much buzz since its opening a year ago. Wing restaurant, helmed by Michelin-starred Chef Vicky Cheng of acclaimed French-Chinese restaurant VEA, is nestled on the 29th floor of The Wellington in Sheung Wan, just a floor below its acclaimed sister eatery VEA.

Having been trained in French techniques, Wing is a step outside of Cheng’s comfort zone, prompted by his journey of rediscovering his Chinese roots. Here, the menu is described as seasonal dining. By sourcing only the freshest and seasonal ingredients, the Hong Kong-born chef offers his patrons a rotation of the best ingredients for each season of the year. “This is my take on Chinese cuisine”, Cheng tells Gafencu. “We do what I like to call ‘boundary-less Chinese cuisine’. By respecting centuries of traditions and flavour combinations, but at the same time adding our own element to the dishes, we are able to create flavours of our own, and ultimately a cuisine of our own”.

“We do ‘boundary-less Chinese cuisine’…adding our own element to the dishes to create flavours of our own”

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_firefly squid — Firefyle Squid with Yunnan Chili and Bull Kelp

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_Drunken South African Abalone — Drunken South African Abalone

Without delay, we began with a line up of cold appetisers. The Firefly Squid with Yunnan Chili and Bull Kelp was a deliciously tender and creamy bite with a gentle hint of spice, courtesy of the generous Yunnan chili garnished atop, while the Drunken South African Abalone was a sweeter follow up to contrast. Perfectly marinated with two different types of Chinese wine, the balance of sweet and savoury was a delight.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_ Appetiser — French White Asparagus with Chicken Fat; Chili Shirako with Century Egg

To its side, was the French White Asparagus with Chicken Fat. Sprinkled with chicken skin crisps, this gave the dish a subtle yet noticeable dimension in texture and taste. Last in line from the appetisers was the Chili Shirako with Century Egg. Delighting with a custard-like texture and taste that paired perfectly well with the mild flavours of the soft-boiled century egg. The dish was brought together with a tantalising note thanks to the restaurant’s house-made Sichuan chilli sauce.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_Steamed Japanese Pomfret — Steamed Japanese Pomfret with Preserved Vegetables

Serving as a brief interim while we waited in anticipation for the second course was the Shanlinsi Oolong tea. Subtle with a fruity aftertaste, our palates were refreshed as we steadied ourselves for the Steamed Japanese Pomfret with Preserved Vegetables. Complementing the fatty, natural sweetness of the meat was a liberal bed of house-preserved vegetables and fresh scallions – giving the fish a unique aroma.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_baby_pigeon — Baby Pigeon with Cane Sugar

Next to arrive was the Baby Pigeon with Cane Sugar. Dry-aged for about three days, then glazed with sugar cane juice before finally smoked with dried sugar cane pulp, the result of this elaborate preparation is a decadently sweet and incredibly crispy skinned bird with juicy, tender meat that slid right off the bone.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_Abalone sauce fish maw with morel mushroom rice — Abalone Sauce Fish Maw with Morel Mushroom Rice

Not long after had we finished off the game on our plates did the next dish arrive, the Abalone Sauce Fish Maw with Morel Mushroom Rice. The chef used two-head fish maw for the dish, which, to put in perspective, is thicker and more chewy than typical fish maw. Rich umami flavours exude throughout each component of the dish, from the fish maw that was braised in house-made abalone sauce to the morel mushroom rice that was elevated by the hint of earthy notes. When put together in a single bite, a seamless balance of texture and flavours are married in perfect harmony.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_ Osmanthus snow gum with coconut sorbet — Osmanthus Snow Gum with Coconut Sorbet

To end on a refreshing note, the dessert arrived in the form of an Osmanthus Snow Gum with Coconut Sorbet. We took our time savouring this sweet ending for as long as it lasted. The snow gum, infused with Osmanthus tea, resembled the unique texture of a bird’s nest, but left a satisfying swirl of floral notes on our palates. The coconut sorbet, on the other hand, added a creamy body to the dessert that was both sweet and refreshing. If there was anything we could have added, it would have been a second serving.

Wing. 29/F The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central. (852) 2711 0063. wingrestaurant.hk

(Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio)

Yung Kee: A new look at the iconic Cantonese eatery

In a city where restaurants rise and fall according to the admittedly fickle tastes of its discerning diners, Yung Kee is a singular success story. Indeed, the Cantonese eatery is something of an institution, having recently celebrated its 80th anniversary. Despite being internationally renowned today, its roots, however, are humble to the extreme.

yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining renovation — Newly renovated dining room at Yung Kee

Having begun as a dai pai dong in 1936, Yung Kee moved to a sturdier location in Wing Lok Street in 1942. Two years later, though, during Hong Kong’s occupation by the Japanese, the site was razed by US bombers and had to be rebuilt. Two decades on, Yung Kee finally found its forever home on Wellington Street, and to mark its landmark 80th year, the restaurant underwent significant renovations.

Yvonne Kam, Third-generation owner yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining — Yvonne Kam, Third-generation owner of Yung Kee

“With the new refurbishment, we’ve ensured that each floor provides a different type of atmosphere to suit diners’ different needs,” says third-generation owner Yvonne Kam. “The ground floor is more for light dining, while the first floor has a ’50s / ’60s teahouse vibe. At the top is our formal dining area, replete with a stunning Dragon Phoenix Hall. We’ve even interspersed various pieces of memorabilia and artworks from Yung Kee’s past, so it’s almost like eating within a majestic living-history museum – one that has evolved alongside the city’s rapid culinary development.”

Multiple nods to the restaurant’s legacy are indeed to be found, from the painstakingly restored handcrafted Italian tiles that were fitted on the first floor in 1964 and the original signage that now graces the contemporary bar area, to the beautifully maintained gold-plated, traditional dragon and phoenix statues and custom-made art punctuating the second-floor grand hall.

dim sum yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining -1 — Yung Kee steamed shrimp and scallop dumpling

Amid this august environment, we kick off our own tasting with a duo of signature dim-sum dishes – Steamed Shrimp and Scallop Dumpling and Supreme Soup Pork Dumpling. The former encompasses delightfully delicate oceanic flavours, while the latter features a single oversized dumpling brimming with soup and a soft pork stuffing.

yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining 1 — Yung Kee Roasted Pigeon Legs and Stir-fried Pigeon Fillet

Next to arrive is Roasted Pigeon Legs and Stir-fried Pigeon Fillet, an updated combination of two disparate dishes. Here, the plump bird’s legs have been deboned then sewn up, so not one iota of flavour or moisture can escape. Roasted to perfection, each mouthful combines succulent meat with crispy skin. The fillets, meanwhile, are beautifully tender, with the accompanying asparagus slivers and lily bulb petals adding a welcome textural element.

yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining — Yung Kee Crispy Toast with Mixed Shrimps and Lobster Tail

Another new addition to the menu then hoves into view – Crispy Toast with Mixed Shrimps and Lobster Tail. An elevated interpretation of a dim-sum favourite (shrimp toast), this particular iteration sees the base layer of bread covered with a decadent lobster tail, which is then sprinkled with sakura shrimp for a dash of added texture. Crunchy yet subtly flavoured, this is a guaranteed hit for any shellfish aficionado.

yung kee 2022 80 year anniverary gafencu dining goose — Yung Kee Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose

Rounding out our delicious tasting is a return to that Yung Kee classic – Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose. “The secret behind our iconic roast goose is our Chinese charcoal grill,” explains Kam. “We have the last remaining one in the CBD area, as the government no longer issues new licences for them. By slow-roasting the goose in it, the meat retains a succulent flavour while simultaneously being given a uniquely fragrant smokiness.”

That’s not all, though. The bird in question is no ordinary goose. It’s a purebred black-maned Chinese goose, carefully chosen for its juicy flesh, which is then bathed in a secret marinade that locks in extra flavour. The result is an explosion of fat, meat and saltiness with every bite – a powerfully addictive combination that keeps you coming back for more. Small wonder, then, that this dish, more than any other at Yung Kee, has kept eager epicureans in thrall across the decades.

Yung Kee. 32-40 Wellington Street, Central. (852) 2522 1624. yungkee.com.hk

(Text: Tenzing Thoundup)

LPM Restaurant & Bar: Fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining

Exquisite service, incredible food, attention to detail – a beautiful restaurant in the heart of Central whisked us off to the French Riviera without having to catch a plane. Located in the art-themed complex of H Queen’s on Stanley Street, LPM Restaurant and Bar is a modern brasserie awash in elegant whites, and one of the go-to places in the city for fine French-Mediterranean food minus the fuss or undue flourishes.

Casting off the gloom of a fifth Covid wave in Hong Kong, on a bright winter’s day, we arrive at the stylish, handsomely white-tableclothed restaurant for a lunchtime tasting. Entering through an open patio that seats 14, we are immediately struck by the expansive dining space (LPM accommodates 104 in total), modern architecture and relaxed, welcoming vibe. The interiors are a sunny delight, dotted with carefully curated contemporary artwork from the South of France and its environs.

Modern French gastronomy may not be hot at the moment, but that doesn’t bother head chef Maurizio Pace. “Our food is timeless,” he says, “You really can’t eat a bad French meal, and we’ve designed a classic menu with a contemporary twist. It is labour-intensive, detail-oriented and the execution is flawless.” Armed with more than two decades of culinary experience across Italy, the United Kingdom and Hong Kong, Pace steers clear of trends to create new, bold flavours amidst an informality unfamiliar in most traditional French restaurants. Each mouthful here, is an unapologetic food adventure, one that is not easily forgotten or recreated elsewhere.
From a menu exhibiting a wide confluence of classics, the chef prepares four courses of earthy fare for this vegetarian. Once seated, the server comes forth with a plate of Italian tomatoes, lemon and olive oil to “make your own salad”. Ripe and bursting with flavour, it’s an entertaining start to escape the wait for entrées which are prepared in the open kitchen.

Also Read: The best restaurant takeaway options in Hong Kong

Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French dining Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts — Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts

We begin with Endive Salad with Gorgonzola and Caramelised Walnuts. Bitter and twisted, endives are an acquired taste, but once you’re accustomed, there’s no looking back. Sliced and bathed in a tangy dressing of mustard, mayonnaise and olive oil, the chicory is topped with apple slices, a mound of cheese and crispy caramelised nuts.

Our taste buds thus shocked out of hibernation, we’re ready to dig deep into Black Truffle with Burrata. Fresh, milky burrata cheese flown straight from Italy is served with a drizzle of olive oil and a generous shaving of European black truffle. This delicious marriage of earthy, aromatic ingredients can be savoured all winter long.

Language of Love No longer a petite maison, LPM Restaurant and Bar shows its maturity in fine, flavoursome, fuss-free French diningHomemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes — Homemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes

Homemade Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes is a humble, comforting dish – flavourfully packed with herbs but not piled with cream, and most importantly not leaving a sinking feeling in the mouth like some pasta creations. It’s served with the right amount of piquancy, warmth and salt, and I can imagine children getting wild for it.

LPM offers an exhaustive wine list, as well as cocktails that are beyond impressive. Bar Manager Benjamin Boyce, stirs a complex, magical potion for Beauty and the Beast, a mildly sweet and invigorating mix of Ketel One vodka, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, strawberry, fennel cordial and yellow Chartreuse.

The heady cocktails are outdone by the calorie-dense dessert of Vanilla Cheesecake with Berry Compote. A faultlessly smooth, unassuming wedge comes with the promise of airy lightness, the thin crunchy base and the tartness of mixed berries prove to be exactly the sort of old-school sweetness I’d wage a fork-war over.
The undisputed simplicity and freshness of ingredients here, prepared with love and respect, make you crave for a leisurely Saint-Tropez holiday, and it’s this ability to captivate and transport diners that has built LPM such a solid local clientele.

Also Read: The best restaurant takeaway options in Hong Kong

LPM Restaurant and Bar. H Queen’s, 23-29 Stanley Street, Central. (852) 2887 1113. lpmrestaurants.com/hongkong

(Text: Nikita Mishra Pictures: LPM Restaurant and Bar)

Giovanni Pina: Newest Italian restaurant in Central

Following the successes of his K11 Musea and Nina Mall outlets, renowned Italian pastry chef Giovanni Pina has pulled back the curtain of a new, eponymous flagship bakery-cum-restaurant in Central. The latest, and swankiest, Giovanni Pina will allow the city’s eager epicureans to sample both sweet and savoury Italian flavours in a modern setting.

Pina is not only a 40-year veteran baker with countless international accolades to his name, he’s also the third generation of a century-old lineage; his grandfather first opened a small pastry shop in the northern Italian town of Trescore Balneario in, yes, 1920. The grandson’s latest offering features interiors inspired by aristocratic European castles of old. Featuring wooden accents, plush purple upholstery and a massive chandelier, the 40-seat eatery affords patrons direct views of the open kitchen. This is where the culinary magic happens, where the chef’s now-famous traditional-meets-contemporary style is on full display.

Eager to savour the results of this fusion of old-meets-new experimentation, our own tasting began with a classic Italian appetiser – Burrata and Seasonal Tomato Salad with Basil infused Balsamic Vinegar Dressing. The inherent creaminess of the fresh buffalo cheese is enhanced by the tartness of the accompanying tri-coloured baby tomatoes, while the house-pickled black garlic imparts a delicious hint of umami to the proceedings. Refreshing yet decadent, it is elevated further by the basil-infused balsamic vinaigrette, which imparts a welcome earthiness.

Next to arrive was Handmade Pappardelle with Porcini Ragu with Pan-fried Kagoshima A4 Wagyu Sirloin. Fronted by melt-in-your-mouth slivers of Kagoshima A4 Wagyu and perfectly al dente home-made pappardelle pasta, the star ingredient here is undoubtedly the porcini ragù. This sauce is truly a labour of love, requiring porcini mushrooms to be soaked overnight before being simmered with three additional types of Japanese mushrooms and short ribs for over four hours. Thick and brimming with flavour, it bequeaths a delicious richness to the Tuscan-style pasta while also tempering the fattiness of the meat.

We then sampled another signature dish of the restaurant – Pan-fried Jumbo Scallops & Asparagus Risotto. A deft display of Chef Pina’s ability to create a dish far greater than the sum of its parts, the risotto is creamy without being overwhelming, thanks to interspersed slivers of asparagus. Topping the all-white affair are two generously sized scallops, which are further garnished with heaped helpings of black caviar. It’s an indulgent and decadent affair, but with a measure of subtlety that allows its oceanic accents to shine through on the palate.

Scarcely had we finished our risotto when a platter of Black Truffle Scrocchiarella hovered into view. Once tableside, the maître d’ garnished the dish with shavings of fresh black truffle. For the uninitiated, scrocchiarella – the crunchy one in Italian – is the Roman take on pizza dough and delivers an authentic thin-crust style of pizza. In this instance, the bread base was light, airy and chewy, while the aromatic truffle and rich cheese combination raised it to the level of pure satisfaction. This, unsurprisingly, is comfort food at its finest.

Given Chef Pina’s legendary reputation as a pâtissier, no trip to the restaurant would be complete without sampling some of his sweeter bakes, so it was no surprise that the final course of our expansive tasting menu came in the form of a dozen Pasticcini Mignon, or mini pastries. As beautiful as they were delicious, it was an endless selection to choose from, but no chore to identify our favourites. We settled very happily indeed on the pistachio cream, pine nut and almond tarts, which were fresh and flavourful with just a hint of sweetness.

Giovanni Pina. G/F, Two Chinachem Plaza, 135 Des Voeux Rd, Central. (852) 2811 9888.
(Photos: Giovani Pina 1920)