Northern Delights: Scrumptious Scandinavian dishes at Hjem

Following the fantastic reception of the city’s first stylish Burmese restaurant, Club Rangoon, its owners at F&B group Common Abode have shifted gears to introduce yet another relatively unfamiliar culinary concept in the form of Nordic eatery Hjem. Tucked along Hollywood Road near Man Mo Temple, this homely, welcoming new restaurant serves up authentic Nordic flavours alongside healthy beverages that are perfect for stressed-out urbanites to pick up on the go.

Hjem, which means ‘home’ in Norwegian (and pronounced ‘yem’ in English), lies particularly close to the heart of the group’s co-founder, Elin Fu, who grew up in the Scandinavian country. She explains, “Hjem is a way of keeping home close to me wherever I may be. Food can be a very personal thing; taste can evoke certain memories and can be an instigator of new experiences. I wanted to share with guests the same comfort that I felt growing up with Nordic cuisine.”

In line with this vision, simple, farm-to-table offerings are the order of the day, typified by the selection of smørrebrød, open-faced sandwiches with a base of robust rye bread and an array of toppings – quite literally Hjem’s bread and butter.
Our own tasting started with a trio of smørrebrød. Arctic Prawn Smørrebrød sees a heap of mayonnaise-coated prawns plucked from the region’s icy waters and placed on a bed of boiled eggs. Hearty yet refreshing, the inherent richness of this cold dish is deftly tempered with the addition of crunchy medallions of baby radish. Generous dollops of salmon roe, meanwhile, elevate the texture of each bite with a burst of flavour.

Scandinavian dishes Hjem hong kong_artic shrimp_gafencu — Image courtesy of Hjem

We then dove into the Herring Smørrebrød. A staple fish in northern European diets, the herrings here are not smoked, salted or pickled as one might expect, but marinated in a pungent mustard dressing. The epitome of a love-it-or-hate-it cold sandwich – some diners may be put off by the topping’s strong aroma – it nonetheless offers unique insight into the tastes of Scandinavia.

Rounding out our platter was the warm Pork Belly Smørrebrød. Here the slivers of perfectly cooked pork belly are reminiscent of Korean samgyupsal in their preparation, all fatty goodness. To cut through the oiliness, the meat is grounded by a bed of tangy pickled red cabbage, with the accompanying fresh slivers adding a delightful crunch to proceedings. A note for the uninitiated: the smørrebrød are hugely filling despite their diminutive size, and even just one of these open-faced creations will likely satiate your appetite.

Scandinavian dishes Hjem hong kong meatballs_gafencu — Image courtesy of Hjem

If, however, you’ve yet to hit your limit, sampling a plate of Hjem’s Meatballs wouldn’t be amiss. The very definition of comfort food, the juicy meatballs are complemented by creamy mashed potato and umami-laden gravy. Once again, a balancing of flavours to avoid overpowering the taste buds is achieved: a spoonful of lingonberry sauce bequeaths each mouthful with a delightful tanginess that lingers long after the morsel slips down the throat.

Scandinavian dishes Hjem hong kong_honey_golden_milk_tea_gafencu — Image courtesy of Hjem

Alongside these comforting culinary treats, no visit to Hjem would be complete without sampling the coffees and healthy drinks on offer. From Nordic teas to kombucha spritzes, there’s something to tempt every wellness-minded diner. A star turn here is Honey Golden Milk Latte, a caffeine-free concoction that has ground turmeric as its key ingredient. Creamy with just a touch of sweetness, it is the perfect tipple to beat the heat when served over ice. Sit back and feel that invigorating Nordic breeze.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Jee Whizz: Chef Siu makes Ying Jee Club a prime seasonal destination…

With the Chinese New Year celebrations coming to a close, restaurants and businesses across the city are preparing to reopen following a hectic festive celebration. One particular Michelin-starred restaurant, however, kept their doors open to usher in the new lunar year, serving traditional Lunar New Year features that are not only delicious but also brimming with symbolism and auspicious significance.

Ying Jee Club, the Cantonese fine-dining establishment set in Central’s Nexxus Building, is helmed by Executive Chef Siu Hin Chi – who previously helped ensure another high-end cuisinery, T’ang Court, achieved two Michelin-star status, brought home a second star for Duddell’s in 2015 and even helped this particular eatery secure its first star just four months after it opened – the restaurant’s beloved menu was enhanced with a special Lunar New Year spread for the period between 12-18 February.

Summing up the dishes that comprised the exclusive menu, Chef Siu says: “The food we’ll be serving for the holiday majors on iconic festive flavours, further heightened by the finest ingredients. What’s more, each course had been specially renamed to signify good luck and fortune, all in the hope of bestowing blessings on our diners.”

As part of our own tasting menu, we sampled five of the menu’s star turns, beginning with a bowl of Imperial Bird’s Nest Broth with Fish Maw, Conpoy and Chicken. Comfort food at its very finest, the hearty chicken broth was enhanced with complementing textures of gelatinous bird’s nest and crunchy fish maw, while the conpoy bequeathed a deliciously oceanic tinge to proceedings. Subtle yet palate-pleasing, the various ingredients blended together in a wholesome and wholly satisfying manner.

Next up was the Crispy Suckling Pig with Goose Liver Pate and Wok-fried Prawn with Salted Egg Yolk, the Chinese name of which equates to wishing diners a prosperous, gold-enriched home. All in all, the yolk-battered prawns were beautifully golden-hued – symbolising wealth and prosperity – and packed a major umami punch, while the crispy skin of the suckling pig was enhanced with the unusual addition of a small steamed bun and a layer of opulent pâté. Undeniably a feast for the eyes, this delicious dish blended two of Cantonese cuisine’s best-loved appetisers in a sinfully rich fashion.

Another appetiser, Braised Mushroom with Shrimp Paste, Scallop and Crab Roe, then made its much-anticipated entrance. Here, the subtle taste of scallop and prawn enhanced the meaty, umami-laden flavours of the mushroom, with the crab roe imparting an added textural dimension. The glistening jade-hued – yet another lucky Chinese New Year colour – bakchoy was a welcome addition, adding a refreshing component to the plate.

Clearly keen to turn the luxury factor up several notches, Chef Siu further enticed our appetite with a heaped plate of Braised South Africa Abalone with Roasted Duck, Black Mushroom and Yunnan Ham. The generously portioned serving of abalone – that most coveted of edible molluscs – was braised in the requisite sauce prior to being sat atop a bed of thinly-sliced roasted duck and mushrooms. Guaranteed to appeal to festive-minded local diners, slivers of Yunnan ham imparted a sharp saltiness to this otherwise subtly nuanced concoction.

The star of the show, though, was undeniably the Sautéed Lobster with Water Chestnut and Crispy Conpoy. Yet another study in how to perfectly balance flavours and textures, the sweet, crunchy water chestnuts and crispy conpoy shavings served to enhance each succulent morsel of lobster, while tantalising the taste buds with rich oceanic accents. As with preceding courses, this shellfish-led dish highlighted Chef Siu’s innate understanding of how to create a delicate equilibrium between the high-quality ingredients he chooses, with each contributing to the epicurean harmony that will leave patrons of Ying Jee Club yearning for more beyond the Chinese New Year festivities.

Ying Jee Club. Shop G05, 107-108, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Rd Central, Central. (852) 801 6882. www.yingjeeclub.com

Hearty, homey Burmese cuisine at Club Rangoon

In a city that has come to be largely dominated by Japanese, French, Italian and Chinese culinary hotspots, one particular eatery is bravely looking to bring a very different gourmet experience to Hong Kong connoisseurs. Nestled in the slopes of Central’s Aberdeen Street, Club Rangoon is unique in being the only Burmese restaurant in the whole of the SAR.

The brainchild of Nelson Htoo, a native of Yangon, Club Rangoon reflects his desire to introduce the culinary traditions of his homeland to Hong Kong’s more discerning diners. Expanding upon the thinking behind this passion project, he says: “With this restaurant, I don’t just want to introduce locals to the recipes my mother and grandmother swore by when I was growing up, I also want to provide a genuine taste of Burmese culture.” In line with this, the dark, plushly-upholstered interior of the eatery is adorned with a plethora of Myanmese images, including many photos of Htoo’s own family.

Turning to the cuisine itself, we commenced our tasting odyssey with the Mutton Samusa, a hugely popular snack in Myanmar, it also has legions of foodie fans in neighbouring India and Nepal. The dish sees lightly spiced morsels of mutton wrapped in flaky pastry and delivers a surprisingly light finish despite being deep-fried. The accompanying mint sauce – similarly subtle – heightens the samusa with a lovely aromatic tang.

Next to be served were the Village Style Egg Curry Bites, with each boiled egg topped liberally with deep-fried peas and caramelised onions. A study in restraint, rather than overwhelming the taste buds, the curry serves to enhance the flavours of the melt-in-your-mouth onions, while the crunchy peas add another layer of texture.

Then the first of our mains – Ohn No Khout Swel (Burmese style coconut noodles) – arrived tableside. Built on a base of chicken curry and coconut soup, the egg noodles are seasoned with liberal drizzles of sesame oil and chilli oil. Undeniably a feast for the eyes, its visual appeal was matched by its rich, hearty flavours, with the thicker consistency of the sauce finding the sweet spot when it comes to the optimal noodle-to-condiment ratio.

Scarcely had we finished than the next course put in an appearance – a piping hot bowl of Mohinga. This noodle soup concoction is widely considered to be the national dish of Myanmar and, as such, is an essential part of the Burmese diet. Traditionally consumed at breakfast time, mohinga is equally at home in the country’s fine-dining establishments as in its street-side hawker stalls. In Club Rangoon’s take on this iconic classic, the rice noodles are diced into bite-sized pieces and eaten with a soup spoon rather than chopsticks. The star of the particular show, though, is the catfish broth, an intense soup redolent with lemongrass, ginger and a hint of chilli that embodies comfort food at its very best.

Scarcely pausing for breath, it was then on to the A Mel Thar Dan Bauk, a Burmese-style beef biryani inspired by Htoo’s grandmother’s own recipe. Unlike typically heavier Indian biryanis, the rice-and-vegetable bed here is simply seasoned, making it the perfect foil for the delectably tender beef cheeks. Slow cooked for 12 hours, their delicious softness is further enhanced by a tomato and dried shrimp sauce and a coating of crispy fried shallots, with the resultant combination packing a powerful umami punch.

Although almost sated by the delicious meal proper, we had just enough space for dessert – Burmese Tea Ice Cream. Described as ‘an ode to the tea culture of Burma’, this particular after proved more than a little reminiscent of Hong Kong’s own famed milk tea, though, perhaps surprisingly, not that sweet. The banana and cashew crumble – made in-house by Head Chef Karisa Cheque – and banana pudding, however, more than made up for that, upping the sugar content of the dish by several notches.

Well aware of its pioneering positioning as the sole Burmese eatery in Hong Kong, Club Rangoon still goes the extra mile to ensure the authenticity of its dishes. Beyond that, though, it all but guarantess that every item on its menu isn’t just tasty, but also wholesome, hearty and welcoming, ensuring diners retain only the fondest memories of their encounter with this undeservedly rare culinary tradition.

Club Rangoon. 33 Aberdeen Street, Central. (852) 2503 3077. www.clubrangoon.com.hk

CHAAT serves up an enticing array of street food favourites from across India

With a population of over 1.35 billion souls, India boasts one of the world’s most vibrant, expansive culinary cultures, so much so that embarking on a quest to try every one of its dishes would be all but impossible in one lifetime. One particular high-end eatery, though, is bringing a very specific aspect of Indian cuisine to Hong Kong’s discerning diners – CHAAT, the Rosewood Hong Kong’s all-new Indian restaurant.

Headed by Chef de Cuisine Madav Tuli, CHAAT is a celebration of the vast country’s most beloved street foods. “We bring everything that is served on the streets of India, not just from the north, south or west,” explains Tuli, adding: “CHAAT is all about finger-licking good food that is raw in its nature, but that is then refined to fit into a Rosewood culture.”

CHAAT serves up an enticing array of street food favourites from across India gafencu magazine taste — Raj Kachori

Perched on the fifth floor of the luxurious Rosewood Hong Kong, CHAAT boasts a wholly contemporary appeal that is at once welcoming and sophisticated. This is the arena where Chef Tuli takes his guests on a nostalgic romp through favourite dishes from such far-flung regions of India as Delhi, Kerala, Hyderabad, Punjab and Bengal. Each dish represents a separate cooking tradition, albeit with a refined twist, and no two plates taste the same, so the restaurant’s diners can explore numerous facets of the subcontinent’s street food at their leisure.

CHAAT serves up an enticing array of street food — CHAAT Tandoori

In keeping with this vision, for our own tasting, Chef Tuli prepared a staggering 13-course menu. While every dish was scrumptious, a few in particular merit special mention, as is the case with Raj Kachori. This savoury appetiser is not just a visual feast, every bite packs a multi-flavoured punch. Here, a crispy lentil puff is filled with potatoes, deep-fried lentils and pomegranate, liberally drizzled with tamarind, chutney and yoghurt, giving every mouthful a refreshingly light mouth-feel.

CHAAT serves up an enticing array of street food favourites from across India gafencu magazine taste (6) — Black Pepper Chicken Tikka

CHAAT’s kebabs – sizzling meaty morsels that are lovingly cooked in the restaurant’s traditional Indian tandoor ovens – were also a major hit. First came the Kerala Grouper Tikka, a dish inspired by Hong Kong’s own love affair with the famed fish. Here, delicated slabs of Grouper are marinated in yoghurt before being cooked and what results is a melt-in-your-mouth concoction, with the yoghurt coating proffering an added layer of creaminess without overpowering the subtlety of the fish.

“CHAAT is about taking iconic Indian street foods and giving it a refined finesse”

It was perhaps the CHAAT Tandoori platter, though, that was a true stunner. Featuring an array of iconic kebabs – featuring traditional offerings like Lamb Seekh Kebab, Sarson Prawn and Black Pepper Chicken Tikka as well as the slightly more unusual Black Angus Beef Short Rib Kebab – the selection was the perfect exploration of kebab culture. The beef was a particular surprise, not least because beef rarely appears on the menu for the country’s largely Hindu population, but the prime cut of juicy meat was a true palate pleaser.

CHAAT serves up an enticing array of street food favourites from across India gafencu magazine taste (2) — Pork Cheek Vindaloo

Of the mains, it was perhaps the Pork Cheek Vindaloo that stands out as the star of the show. An iconic dish from Goa, Kerala and other former Portuguese colony regions, this particular version of the curry sees pieces of pork simmered in a rich sauce brimming with garlic, vinegar, ginger, chili and spices until the meat is so tender it falls off the fork. Unlike other iterations, CHAAT’s take isn’t mind-numbingly spicy. Instead, it offers a slow burn that still allows the pork flavour to shine through – a deft showcase of Chef Tuli’s dedication to balancing flavours.

Turning to dessert, it was the Nimbu Tart that stole the show. This Indian take on the lemon tart sees lime as the hero ingredient of the cream, while the pastry has been infused with the subtle taste of cardamom for a delicate, spiced finish. Light, tangy and delicious, it served as the perfect counterpoint to the richness of the previous courses in another deft display of Chef Tuli’s ability to balance flavours and ingredients with refined finesse.

CHAAT, (852) 5239 9220.

Valentine’s Day Dinners: Romance your loved one with a truly spectacular meal

There’s no better occasion than Valentine’s Day to show that special someone in your life just how much you appreciate them. To help, Hong Kong’s finest eateries have put together a smorgasbord of romantic menus to enhance the day even further. Below, we highlight some of the best Valentine’s Day dinners to be had come February 14th. Best book fast to ensure your evening is one to remember.

Épure

There is no doubt that the right ingredient can immediately transform any romantic Valentine’s dinner. With that in mind, the French fine dining restaurant Épure is offering a special eight-course Valentine’s day dinner menu with the much-coveted Black Truffles as its central motif, created by Executive Chef Nicolas Boutin. Besides, this one Michelin starred restaurant’s view of the Victoria Harbour adds to the intimate dining experience. Call (852) 3185 8338 or email reservations@epure.hk to book your table.

Location: Shop 403, 4/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong.

Price: HK$2,088 onwards + 10% per person.

Takumi by Daisuke Mori

On a day to celebrate the love shared by two people, Takumi by Daisuke Mori, a restaurant that brings together two different cuisines – French and Japanese goes well with the theme. Crafted by Michelin-starred Chef Daisuke, the nine-course menu served on Valentine’s Day features dishes like HIDA Tenderloin Sandwich, Hairy Crab Shogoin-turnip and Blue Lobster Rolled Pumpkin and Nori. There’s also a wine-pairing option of four glasses of wine for HK$880 or six glasses for HK$1,180, both of which will be subject to 10% service charges. For more details click here.

Location: Shop 1, G/F, The Oakhill, 16 Wood Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong.

Price: HK$2,080 + 10% service charges.

Madame Fù

If you believe in the popular phrase ‘sharing is caring’, the Valentine’s Day dinner menu served by the contemporary Chinese restaurant Madame Fù definitely looks set to please. The five-course menu features dishes such as Seafood Honey Bean Dumplings, French Blue Lobster with Dan Dan Noodles and Wasabi Angus Beef with Okra and more. With four out of seven rooms specially decorated for Valentine’s Day, there’s no doubt the atmosphere and culinary treats here will help enhance the romance of the evening. Click here to make your reservation.

Location: Madame Fù, 3rd Floor, Barrack Block, Tai Kwun, No.10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong.

Price: From HK$1,800.

The Tiffany Blue Box Cafe

Be it gifting your partner a beautiful piece of jewellery or surprising them with a remarkable dinner, with the creation of The Tiffany Blue Box Cafe, the American brand Tiffany and Co. knows how to put exquisiteness in both. Starting with the rich taste of Iberico Ham with Green Asparagus Panna Cotta and ending with the cafe’s homemade Lemon Madeleine and Dark Chocolate Madeleine, the five-course meal is sure to impress your taste buds and your date’s too. Click here to book your table.

Location: 2/F, Shop No. 7-8 One Peking, No.1 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Price: HK$1,688 + Perrier-Jouët Champagne: HK$150/glass.

Mott 32

If you are looking to eat to your heart’s content with your loved one, the long-lauded modern Chinese cuisine Mott 32 could be the perfect destination for Valentine’s Day. The Central-set restaurant’s nine-dish set menu includes mouth watering dishes like Foie Gras with Chinese Hwa Tiao, Egg White, Pumpkin Soup, and Baked Red Date Puff with Red Beancurd. Served exclusively on February 14, this feast is surely a wholesome gastronomic journey. Click here to make your reservation.

Location: Standard Chartered Bank Building, 4-4a Des Voeux Road, Central, Hong Kong.

Price: HK$1,480 + 10% per person.

The Landmark Mandarin Oriental

Everyone likes to have choices and those at the luxury restaurant The Landmark Mandarin Oriental offers that to you. If you choose to go on an afternoon date, the eatery offers a selection of pastries including Green tea matcha cheesecake, Coconut and mango bowl, and more, which you can pair with a bottle of pink Moët & Chandon rosé champagne. If you are looking to dine later in the evening or even midnight (till 1:00am), The Landmark Mandarin Oriental’s bar Please Don’t Tell serves Caviar tots and Moët & Chandon champagne or a classic Martini cocktail and a dessert of your liking. Both these dining options will be available from February 11 to February 17. Make your reservations via email – lmhkg-mobar@mohg.com or phone – (852) 2132 0077.

Location: The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong.

Prices: From HK$338 to HK$1,998.

Hue

Be it satisfying your visual senses with a panoramic view of Victoria Harbour or treating your taste buds with its mouthwatering menu, the contemporary Australian restaurant Hue has it all. This Valentine’s Day, Hue will be serving a three-course dinner menu in the evening (6:00pm and 6:30pm seatings) and a four-course menu at its 8:30pm seating. With options like Beetroot salad with goat’s milk curd and luxurious truffle for starters and Yam and ricotta dumplings with pickled squash served with truffle and burnt butter sauce for the main course, you can relish in a satiating, soul-satisfying Valentine’s Day dinner menu. Call (852) 3500 5888 or click here to make your reservation.

Location: 1/F Hong Kong Museum of Art, 10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK.

Price: Three-course dinner menu: HK$880+10% per person; Four-course dinner menu: HK$980+10% per person.

Arcane

Located in a quiet corner in Central, the one Michelin-starred hotel Arcane is a great dining option for couples looking for an intimate meal. Indulge in a six-course tasting menu with dishes including Seared Hokkaido scallop with roasted carrot oil, yamaimo, salsa verde and mustard frill; Slow braised wagyu short rib with sweet potato purée, brussels sprouts and maitake mushroom and other delicacies. With contemporary art work by Flowers Gallery filling the room, this restaurant provides the right ambience for a romantic dinner making it to our list of best Valentine’s Day dinners.

Location: Arcane, 3rd Floor, 18 On Lan St, Central.

Price: HK$1,388.

Suschic: Stylish sea-to-table sushi proves The Araki has arrived

There’s long been a special place in the heart of many of Hong Kong’s most discerning diners for one particular dish – sushi. Indeed, the city’s culinary landscape is dotted with a plethora of establishments serving up this uniquely Japanese cuisine at pretty much every imaginable price point. When it comes to Michelin-starred sushi standouts, however, the Fragrant Harbour boasts just three – three-starred Sushi Saikon, two-starred Sushi Saito and one-starred Sushi Wadatsumi.

Change, though, is in the air, with Mitsuhiro Araki – the only Japanese chef to ever attain much coveted Michelin treble-star status in both London and Tokyo – having now opened an outpost in Asia’s World City. His bold new venture – The Araki – is an exclusive 12-seat restaurant and can be found tucked in to the old stablery, part of Tsim Sha Tsui’s refurbished Heritage 1881 compound.

Discreet by design, Chef Araki’s Hong Kong debut dinery was conceived as a homage to Edomae sushi, a style developed in Tokyo-some 200 year ago as a means of keeping seafood fresh long before the invention of refrigeration. This saw the canny cooks of the day resorting to infusions of salt, miso and soy sauce as a way of ensuring their fine produce remained perfectly edible long after it had been caught. It’s a time-honoured tradition and one said to yield far more in terms of texture, flavour and sheer melt-in-the-mouth satisfaction than the solely raw seafood-on-rice approach favoured by many contemporary establishments.

Accordingly, when dining at The Araki, guests should expect a multi-course omakase menu, one continuously customised to make best use of the day’s finest freshly-caught ingredients. In one telling break with tradition, however, Araki personally oversees the inventorying, visiting the wet markets daily to source the best local seafood and specifying regular deliveries of certain fish found solely in Japanese waters.

Outlining his culinary philosophy, he said: “While people always assume the best quality seafood must come from Japan, that is not the case for every ingredient. As the ocean doesn’t recognise national boundaries, it is important to build relationships with local fisherman wherever you are in the world, whether that’s Japan, the UK or Hong Kong. That is the only way to ensure you always get the very best seafood.”

Eager to see how his approach pans out in practice, we pretty much pounced on our tasting fingers as soon as they appeared. To be fair, we were only following orders as we had been briefed that every item of sushi would be served directly onto the wooden countertop – with the requisite wasabi and sauce already applied – and should be consumed (using one hand only) within seconds of its arrival.

Appropriately enough, the first to be table-topped was the Tuna. As Araki is a world-renowned tuna master, our expectations were high. Fortunately, his truly delicious nigiri more than delivered – all melt-in-the-mouth morsels of tuna carved lovingly from the fish’s exquisitely tasty neck region.

Next to tempt our taste buds was Young Snapper, sourced fresh from the local wet markets and beautifully tender thanks to its relative infancy. Creamy yet firm, its flavours were enhanced with a dash of Thai lime, giving it a refreshingly citrusy aftertaste.

Barely had we completed this memorable course when the next locally-sourced sushi offering – Mantis Shrimp – took its on-table turn. Rather than being served raw, it was instead lightly poached, with only a dash of soy sauce to enhance its inherent sweetness. Boasting a somewhat crunchy texture, its cooked flesh was wonderfully counterpointed by the subtly tangy rice and came in sharp contrast to its raw counterpart.

Perhaps the most stunning course of all, though, was the Ebi Oboro with Prawn Crumb. Another cooked dish, here the ebi prawn came wrapped in oboro, a surprisingly soft, crumbly shrimp paste created by grinding prawns for hours on end. Together, they form a delectably cohesive whole, with the sweet crunch of the prawn and smoothness of the oboro merging synergistically before serenading your taste buds with their joyous unity.

From start to finish, Chef Araki’s passion and mastery over his craft was never less than wholly evident. From the undeniably high quality of the ingredients – “I check the eyes, gills and firmness to make sure each fish is perfect. If it’s not 100 percent, it’s not going to make the cut” – and flawlessly precise seasonings to the intimate atmosphere of the dining experience, every aspect of The Araki’s omakase tasting is exceptionally well orchestrated, with each individual dish striking a deliciously different note. Small wonder, then, that you currently have to book several months in advance should you want to check out Chef Araki for yourself.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Images: The Araki

Holiday Spirits: Usher in the festive season with classic Christmas cocktails

It’s no secret that the unstoppable rise of high-end cocktail bars has birthed countless bespoke beverages to suit the taste buds of even the most discerning drinker. A happy byproduct of this is the spawning of a surfeit of splendid seasonal tipples to suit every occasion, big or small. Indeed, one needs to look no further than the recent Halloween celebrations to find countless night spots serving spookily-themed drinks – no doubt with an eye covertly on the cash counter.

However, there is one particular season of the year that – rather surprisingly – seems to proffer a paucity of such ‘trendy’ thematic tipples – Christmas. Indeed, when it comes to the most joyful time of the year, cocktail enthusiasts are more inclined towards traditional offerings to quench their thirst, ones that are delicious, nostalgic and – most importantly – warm.

We are, of course, talking about the hot toddies, eggnogs and mulled wines that have long been a staple of Yuletide gatherings for many European nations and their once-colonies. Hot toddy, one of modern Britain’s best-loved seasonal beverages, for example, is a descendant amalgam of the palm wines of India, American spiced rum and Scotch whisky.

Mulled wines, meanwhile, can trace their roots back to the Ancient Romans, who imbibed on heated wines to ward off the harsh winter cold. As their empire spread across the globe, so too did the love of this delicious drink, with ensuing generations adding spices, herbs and flowers to enhance its flavours to its current-day form.

Finally, eggnog, that most quintessential of Christmas cocktails, first originated as ‘posset’ – a warm, milky, ale-like libation brewed by 13th-century British monks. Eggnog eventually became tied to Yuletide cheer when it was transported to the Americas in the 1700s, with Mexico and Puerto Rico adopting the tipple as their own soon thereafter.

Today, these classic alcoholic refreshments and their countless derivatives remain an indispensable part of any Christmas celebration, with their fulsome flavours and soulful warmth all but ensuring their popularity for generations to come.

RECIPES

HOT TODDY

Ingredients:

1 1/2 oz whisky
1 tbsp honey
1/2 oz lemon juice
1 cup hot water
1 tea bag

Directions:

Boil water and steep tea bag for 3-5 minutes
In serving glass, add honey
Pour whisky, lemon juice and tea
Mix well to incorporate the honey
Garnish with lemon wedge

EGGNOG

Ingredients:

6 eggs (yolks and whites separated)
1/2 cup superfine sugar
1/4 tsp salt
2 tsp vanilla
2 cups brandy
1 cup milk
1/2 tsp grated nutmeg

Directions:

Beat yolks, 1/4 cup of sugar, salt, vanilla and nutmeg until very thick and light yellow
Slowly beat in brandy and milk
Cover and chill in fridge overnight
Before serving, beat egg whites to soft peaks
Beat in remaining sugar
Pour over chilled brandy mix and fold gently
Garnish with nutmeg

Hide-and-Steak: Velo unveils heavenly, hearty Italian cuisine at K11 MUSEA

It is no exaggeration to say the Italian fine-dining options available in Hong Kong can more than match up in authenticity and fulsome flavours when compared to any top restaurant, including many dineries in Italy itself. With hundreds of the country’s chefs calling the Fragrant Harbour their home, there is no dearth of delicacies from any part of this Mediterranean country, be it white truffles from Alba or Florentine steaks from Tuscany.

Given the more-than-adequate representation of this particular cuisine within the city – from takeaway eateries to multi-Michelin-starred restaurants – one may question the efficacy of opening another such cuisinary in Hong Kong.

However, Velo Italian Bar & Grill, the newest such noshery to be unveiled comes with the highest of credentials. Part of Gaia Group, the force behind such restaurants as Isola and Gaia Ristorante (to name but two), Velo marks the group’s first foray into K11 MUSEA, a new museum-and-retail complex in Victoria Dockside.

Rather revelling in the aptness of its name – whose meaning in Italian is hidden or veiled – Velo is tucked away in a corner of the shopping mall, a quiet, hidden sanctuary where food, art and culinary experiences all culminate. On entering, one is greeted by plush interiors in subtle tones of sage, mahogany and black that are at once welcoming and luxurious. This feeling of warmth intensifies further on perusing the menu. Combining the freshest ingredients and culinary expertise, the chefs at Velo have come up with dishes that make the best of the land-meets-sea approach.

Eager to try it out firsthand, we dove right into our tasting, with the first course, Insalata di Astice, being an invigorating mix of Boston lobster, orange, lettuce, celery and red onion doused with lemon vinaigrette to create a mix of tangy, sweet acidity that immediately piques the appetite.

Italian fine-dining — ***Insalata di Astice***

The next dish, however, caused some slight confusion on our part as it approached tablewards, because while we were expecting Crema di Funghi e Tartufo Nero, a mushroom soup, what was served resembled a cappuccino more than a broth, complete with frothy foam. It was only when the server sprinkled truffle shavings on top and explained that it was indeed mushroom soup hidden under the milk foam that understanding dawned and we reached out for the first spoonful. And one spoonful is all it took for us to fall headlong in love with the rich, creamy brew, with its generous portion of truffles spreading warmth through every fibre of our being.

Equally wholesome was the next truffle dish, the Pizza al Tartufo Nero, with cheese, leafy vegetables and black truffle – the simplest of ingredients – transforming it into the most sumptuous of dishes. With the softness of the pizza dough combining with the freshness of the seasonal greens and the earthiness of the truffles, this is perhaps honest-to-goodness Italian cuisine at its very best, without frills or trappings, allowing each ingredient to shine bright.

This back-to-basics approach was again evident in the Spaghetti all’Astice, seafood pasta with Boston lobster and homemade tomato sauce with lobster bisque. Cooked in basil oil and garnished with basil leaves, it’s a dish where each element, be it the sweetness of the seafood, the tanginess of the sauce or the refreshing bite of the basil, combines to create a synergic, flavourful whole. The lobster, in particular, deserves a tip of the hat on its own merit, with its aroma and flavours underlining its sea-to-table freshness.

Moving on to the mains, the Bistecca di Tomahawk is as palate-pleasing – if not more so – than its precursors. Featuring Australian Wagyu beef, roasted potatoes, sautéed spinach and gravy sauce, the star turn is undoubtedly the bone-in Tomahawk ribeye, whose juices are locked in due to being cooked with the bone. The result is any meat-minded diner’s dream – succulent, tender beef that falls apart from the slightest pressure of the carving knife. However, at more than a kilogram in weight, it’s really meant for sharing, even though our heart may say otherwise. Perhaps, therein lies the secret to Velo’s success – plating up dishes that win our love and leave us craving for more.

Avo-lutely Delicious: Beloved British Avobar opens in K11

In 2017, Australian millionaire Tim Gurner caused quite a stir when he suggested that millennials would be more financially secure if they could just stop spending their money on avocado brunches. Thankfully, Gurner’s advise was largely ignored, with countless new eateries featuring avocado-fronted fare continuing to crop up across the globe. The latest of these is British-based avocado restaurant Avobar, which has opened its doors in K11 Musea, making Hong Kong its first international outpost.

Indeed, there isn’t a dish on offer at Avobar that comes without the ridiculously popular and healthy green fruit, as patrons can choose from smashed, mashed, sliced and diced plates ranging from from pasta, burgers, desserts and even avo-infused cocktails. Liana Kazaryan, owner of Avobar spoke to us during our tasting, explaining that her team wasn’t merely trying to build up a restaurant, but a lifestyle of healthy and positive choices.

Undoubtedly our favourite dish of the day was the Avo Bun Burger, nestled a sweet potato and red lentils between the avocado bun slices. Despite its deliciousness, though, holding onto the burger proved difficult when even the slightest grasp from our fingers had the buns sliding awry. Meanwhile, the Hong Kong-exclusive dish Pasilla & Mushroom Risotto provided us with a more than generous helping of miso zuke cod, while the risotto below it was creamy and rich. When it came time for dessert, the Choc Avo Brownie a fitting end-note, though those with a strong sweet tooth may be left craving something a tad sweeter. Regardless, Avobar proferred some truly unique and delicious interpretations of avocado-inspired dishes, affording those seeking a healthier diet with plenty to choose from.

Avobar, Shop B201, K11 MUSEA, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Text: Bailey Atkinson

Review: Proof proves itself worthy as Happy Valley’s sole artisan bakery

Hong Kong’s sugar fiends are barely famished as local bakeries and chains line almost every street. However, one with a sweet tooth that longs for the sugary cakes and treats of the west would be well-advised to visit Happy Valley’s sole artisan bakery Proof a visit.

Nestled into the affluent neighborhood just minutes from the horse race-track, the Australian-owned bakery provides its patrons with not only the best of breads but also with eco-friendly dishes that come sans the preservatives and additives. Upon our visit to Proof we were immediately overwhelmed with the selection of goodies on offer, as we tried to narrow down which of the sweets outlined on the chalkboard would do best within our hungry tummies.

Most memorable was the bakery’s Cinnamon Roll which left our fingers sticky and our tongues on buttery overload. Also among our favourites was the Cheese Bretzel which provided a savory relief from the sweets, and of course the friendly explanations from Proof‘s staff and help when it came to the selections of sweets will ensure our return.

Proof., GF, 14 Tsun Yuen Street, Happy Valley, (852) 6542 9788