Saffron Specifics: Three facts about the world’s most expensive spice
There was once a time, not too long ago, that spices were a luxury in our world, a luxury so splendrous that wars were declared in their names. While it has been a few hundred years, give or take, since the last spice-sourced bloodshed occured, one particular spice still remains a luxury in the modern world – saffron.
Indeed, the swanky spice has been coveted and craved by humankind for more than 3,500 years, a desire that crossed continents, cultures, and dynasties. Saffron, derived from a the dried stigmas of the saffron crocus plant, was a name bequeathed to it by the Ancient Greeks, with a dash of Hebrew. The plant is unmistakable, blooming into a cup-shaped flower in gorgeous lilac hues.
Crocus – the plants from which saffron is derived
1. It sells for USD$500-5,000 a pound
It is only natural for one to wonder, what is so special about saffron that accounts for its stunning wholesale price of US$500-$5,000 per pound? The bulk of the reason is that it actually takes over 80,000 of the crocus flowers to produce just one pound of the vermilion spice. Furthermore, each plant can only be harvested within a short time frame in the Autumn months.
2. It was discovered in Greece
Saffron is said to have first been discovered on the Greek island of Crete during the Bronze Age, with its first recorded image said to depict the flower being picked by young girls and monkeys.
3. Most of the world’s supply now comes from Iran
Iran is now responsible for over 90 percent of the world’s saffron harvest and supply. However, despite the country’s mass production of the spice, it is said that the producers in Spain are, in fact, purveyors of products of the best quality in the world.
New Fangled: Fang Fang puts a maverickly modern twist on Asian cuisine
While Lan Kwai Fong was once solely renowned for its countless drinking establishments and late-night entertainment haunts, spots where Hongkongers hit the hard stuff until well into the early hours of the morning, a change has surely come. Today – though it seems heresy to say – good grub is as much on the agenda of the LKF-bound as devil-may-care drink downing.
Among the new generation of upmarket eateries to be found within LKF is Fang Fang, a permanently packed pan-Asian restaurant that certainly pushes the boundaries of contemporary cuisine. Opened just over a year ago, this thoroughly modern meal machine is headed by Executive Chef Wong Tai Po, a 14-year veteran of a number of London’s leading Asian fine dining establishments, as well as several of the best restaurants that Monaco, Switzerland and France have to offer.
Fang Fang Executive Chef Wong Tai Po
As if emphasising that he is bringing all his considerable experience to bear at Fang Fang, Wong’s menu reads like a mad dash across North Asia, taking in Hong Kong, China and a fair proportion of Japan. Outlining his strategy, he says: “You’ll find everything here – from dim sum and sushi to wok-fried dishes. In addition to using only the freshest ingredients, we also place a heavy premium on delivering a colourful, energetic presentation that allows each dish to tell its own story.”
Hokkaido Scallop Ceviche
Keen to experience Wong’s culinary storytelling first hand, we tucked into our first appetiser – a colourful Hokkaido Scallop Ceviche served with watermelon pickle, watermelon foam, sliced red onions and cherry tomatoes. And, fair play to him, this initial serving alone was an apt testament to his ability to deconstruct expectations and traditional dishes alike, with this particular plate proving an amazing amalgam of soup and salad. The refreshing tartness of the watermelon and lime juice, cut by the sweet watermelon, was just the perfect foil for the deliciously smooth morsels of scallop sashimi.
Next to test our taste buds was the second appetiser – Chilean Sea Bass Kataifi. The presentation of the dish is an unashamed show-stopper, largely on account of the semi-fluorescent pink hues of the beetroot yoghurt sauce and the bright orange spicy mayonnaise that rest at the bottom of the plate.
Chilean Sea Bass Kataifi
Proving that you should never judge a cook book by its cover, the very first bite uncovered a surprisingly subtle flavour profile. While the sea bass was cooked to perfection, it was the kataifi – a shredded pastry of Greco-Lebanese origin – that delivered the most memorable mouthfuls.
Wong then opted to highlight his prowess in delivering more traditional fare with his Kuromitsu Buta Kakuni – braised pork belly encased enticingly in a flavour-packed sauce blended from Japanese black honey and Japanese vinegar. Each cubed meaty morsel sat atop a lettuce leaf, lightening the pork’s richness while also allowing us to unashamedly dig in, fingers first.
Spicy Popcorn Chicken
Plate well and truly cleared, it was back to Fang Fang’s signature modern fusion flair with Spicy Popcorn Chicken. Its name proved doubly apt – not only are the tender pieces of chicken thigh proportionately bite-sized, but the chef has also added homemade caramel popcorns to this Sichuanese-derived dish. It proved an inspired move, with the sugary kernels serving to keep the dish’s high spice levels at bay, while also restricting the taste bud-numbing effects of the ma la spice to an acceptable minimum. That said, if you’re not a fan of spicy food, perhaps best give this one a miss.
Beef Short Ribs
After plating colourful sauces and deconstructed dishes, Wong chose a surprisingly unadorned item for his grand finale. The focus of the simply-monikered Beef Short Ribs rests squarely on the perfectly cooked slow-cooked beef – a task that apparently requires more than twelve hours of precision preparation in a sous vide system – with the accompanying slivers of deep-fried lemongrass and lemongrass gravy serving only to heighten its melt-in-your-mouth memorableness.
From neon-hued sauces to hybrid soup-salads, Fang Fang disrupts the traditionally accepted notions of exactly what Asian food should look and taste like, while still offering the very best flavours for which its chosen regional cuisines are rightly famed for. It’s a challenging balancing act, but one that Wong pulls off superbly and seemingly with little sweat.
Pan-tastic: Le Pan serves inspired French cuisine with an Asian tweak
Stepping into Le Pan, an 18-month-old French fine dining establishment, the first thing that hits you is its sheer immensity. There is, however, sound thinking behind its commodiousness. Unlike Central, Wan Chai or Causeway Bay, where a clutter of deluxe dineries vie for patrons, Le Pan has the missionary-esque task of converting the gastronomically unaware citizens of Kowloon Bay into true aficionados of fine food.
At the head of this wholescale culinary conversion is Chef Edward Voon, Malaysian-born, but Singapore-reared. Bankrolling his bid to properly educate the local palate is Pan Sutong, the Hong Kong-based billionaire businessman who founded Matsunichi Communication Holdings, the home appliance giant. Together, they have created a restaurant that is unashamedly, as Voon puts it, “contemporary French, reimagined”.
Le Pan is ably helmed by Chef Edward Voon
Thankfully, a legion of fine dining enthusiasts and eminent food critics have bought into the shared vision of Le Pan, with many seeing an excursion to Kowloon Bay as more than amply recompensed by the array of ever-changing, well-finessed Gallic gourmandry that is always on offer.
Explaining his approach to building the restaurant’s reputation, Voon says: “I cook everyday as if it’s a competition. Whenever a regular returns, I throw out the menu and change things about for them. I love that kind of adrenaline and that’s also why we swap out over a quarter of the menu every month, giving me the chance to experiment anew.”
Eager to give this ceaseless rotation of fine cusinery a go, we started our tasting with Kristal caviar, botan shrimp, sea urchin, crustacean jelly. Much like the man himself, this starter was multi-layered and complex, with sharply contrasting flavours expertly woven into a wholly-coherent and supremely-satisfying platter.
Cured ocean trout, scampi, verjus, ‘piperade’, Granny Smith apple
Next up, a sumptuous appetiser of Cured ocean trout, scampi, verjus, ‘piperade’, Granny Smith apple. Divided into hot and cold servings, the warmer end of the spectrum featured a crunchy pastry-and-oba-leaf-wrapped scampi, rounded off with a tart Granny Smith apple butter sauce and a drizzle of basil reduction. The chillier choice – perhaps the stronger showing of the two portions – majored on cold trout, foiled wonderfully by a bed of vegetable jelly and topped with creamy salmon tartare.
Cancale whelk ravioli, seaweed, fermented black bean beurre blanc
Delicacy was the order of the day with our final starter – Cancale whelk ravioli, seaweed, fermented black bean beurre blanc, expertly paired with cod roe eggs. The tactical deployment of the (potentially overwhelming) black beans here, proved a surprising yet wholly appropriate addition, and a subtle nod to the Le Pan chef’s Asian roots.
Brittany blue lobster, artichoke, cherry, aromatic sauce
Then it was on to the main course proper – beautifully-plated Brittany blue lobster, artichoke, cherry, aromatic sauce, a dish sure to find favour with even the haughtiest high-end epicurean fans. Indeed, the pairing of such a perfectly-cooked crustacean with lobster and pearl onion tartare was nothing short of inspired.
Imperial pigeon au sang, petit pois, grelot onion, jus carcasse
Skipping from one peak palate performer to the next, it was due time for the house’s piecé de résistance – Imperial pigeon au sang, petit pois, grelot onion, jus carcasse – to take centre stage. Whilst a notoriously problematic bit of poultry for many chefs, the pigeon à la Le Pan – sumptuously smoked in applewood and rosemary – was tender and proved quite the revelation.
After a series of unquestionably complex, yet wholly delicious courses, Chef Voon saw fit to end our gallop through Gallic gastronomy with an apparently simple dessert. The merest tincture of the proffered Yuzu cremeux, white chocolate, almond, lemon confit, however, was enough to dispel that particular notion. Tart yet sweet, creamy yet light, it was the perfect postscript to a truly marvellous menu, and a testament to his deft hand at composing complex dishes far greater than the sum of their parts.
Le Pan. G/F, Goldin Financial Global Centre, 17 Kai Cheung Rd, Kowloon Bay. (852) 3188 2355. www.lepan.com.hk
Text: Tenzing Thondup
Takumi by Daisuke Mori plates up well-finessed Franco-Japanese cuisine
It’s no secret that every Wan Chai eatery is desperate to snaffle passing trade by being bolder, glitzier and more in-your-face than its neighbouring rivals. Should such one-uppery and ostentation leave you with no appetite, then one of the district’s more discreet dineries – Takumi by Daisuke Mori, a bastion of well-finessed Franco-Japanese cuisine – should maybe loom large on your ‘to nosh’ list.
The 12-seat Takumi by Daisuke Mori offers an intimate omakase experience
Set squarely at the less-travelled end of Wood Road, this craftily-concealed cuisinery is fronted by an unassuming, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it access point. Once home to Wagyu Takumi, Chef Daisuke Mori now holds sway here, with his new restaurant having won a Michelin star of its own for two successive years.
Maintaining that it’s his experience on the global gourmand trail that gives him his edge, he says: “I’ve worked in many places across the world and that really opened my eyes, making me willing to experiment with different ingredients and cooking styles. At Takumi, though, we’re solely focussed on fusing Japanese simplicity with a typically French aplomb, while using only the finest produce both countries have to offer.”
Homemade pasta with Japanese sugar tomato, “mi-cuit” Aori Ika
Keen to see if his philosophy truly delivered, our chef-selected tasting menu opened with Homemade pasta with Japanese sugar tomato, “mi-cuit” Aori Ika. The mi-cuit (a French technique that outwardly sears an ingredient while leaving it tender within) Aori Ika squid was perfectly complemented by the tender sweet tomatoes, with a judicious basil oil reduction neatly binding the dish.
With Mori’s innovative East-meets-West flair immediately to the fore, the dish was served unexpectedly cold. Given the summer heat, this proved to be an unusual, yet wholly-refreshing, departure from the norm.
Pan-fried hairtail, baby corn and French green pea
What else to follow but Pan-fried hairtail, baby corn and French green pea? Having never partaken of the hairtail fish, this was a revelatory introduction. Most memorably, the fish’s unusual ground sourdough crust gave each delicate bite that added crunch. Served with a kinome-miso sauce, the dish calls to an underwater garden.
For the soup course, Chef Mori presented Black abalone with shiitake consommé, with Hong Kong’s most-loved mollusc proudly taking centre stage. Seared to secure a caramelised and slightly smoky texture before being be-brothed, these succulent sea snails were amply garnished with ginko nuts and black truffle shavings.
Black abalone with shiitake consommé
Scarcely had the consommé been consumed than the Grilled Wagyu tenderloin made the grandest of entrances. This particular premium beef would quell the quibbles of even the most quarrelsome critics, even before its custom-picked condiments – including Salsifis puree, Aomori garlic confit and fresh wasabi – hoved into view. Arguably amounting to five different dishes in one serving, the only complaint – and, I suspect, a common one – might be that is there is not nearly enough on the plate to sate the inevitably-drooling diner.
Finally, it was dessert time, with Chef Mori unveiling his summer special Hokkaido melon with Sauternes wine and basil sorbet. Pitching symmetrical spheres of Hokkaido’s famous Yubari melon, marinated overnight in sweet Sauternes wine, against a cold melon soup, with a striking basil sorbet mediating between the two, this took us well into premium pudding territory.
Hokkaido melon with Sauternes wine and basil sorbet
It was a fitting finale to a fantastic feast and an apt testament to the Chef’s finesse in subtly fusing Japan’s finest ingredients with weaponised French preparatory techniques. This dish, as with the entire menu and the establishment itself, proves that tactical, bold – but informed – blending is the gift that, in the right hands, just never stops giving.
Shop 1, G/F, The Oakhill, 16 Wood Road, Wan Chai. (852) 2574 1299.
Text: Tenzing Thondup
Among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018, nine eateries from Hong Kong stood out
With the results now in for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2018 sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, it seems as though Bangkok-based Gaggan – “a progressive Indian restaurant” – surprised pretty much no-one by taking the top prize for the fourth time in a row. Closer to home, though, competition was a little more intense, with nine eateries jostling to take the Hong Kong Top Nosh Slot…
Number nine on the Hong Kong list (number 46 overall) was Caprice, the Four Seasons’ contemporary French restaurant. Headed by Chef Guillaume Galliot, it beguiled judges with its selection of bold French dishes, including beef-oyster tartare and caviar, crab laksa with confit egg, leeks, coriander, hazelnut and sudachi lime, and roasted pigeon with confit legs, beetroot and port wine sauce. Its award-winning desserts were also acknowledged as enhancing the French experience, with the restaurant’s very own Nicolas Lambert hailed as 2018’s Best Pastry Chef in Asia. (Read full interview with Chef Nicolas here.)
Standout dish: Beef-oyster tartare and caviar
Flower Crab from Ronin
Ronin, number eight in Hong Kong (number 41 overall), won due to its informal Japanese pub-style appeal, thanks to its twin specialties of seafood and Japanese whiskey. Chef Matt Abergel was particularly commended for a number of his standout dishes, most notably crab shells with crab meat, mitsuba (wild parsley) and iwashi sardine and clams with kimchi, kabu and sake. The drinks selection also won plaudits for its choice of more than 100 Japanese whiskies, not to mention umeshu, shochu and sake.
Standout dish: Flower crab, Hokkaido uni, mitsuba
Belon, led by Chef Daniel Calvert, takes the Hong Kong seven (40) slot. Describing itself as a “dynamic neo-Parisian bistro with an eye on the classics”, Belon impressed with its fusion of local Hong Kong bistro-style French cooking techniques. From an entrée of pork and pistachio terrine with Dijon mustard to a main course of pigeon pithivier with fig and amaretto, the chef sums up the experience as “inherently excellent”. Thankfully, the judges agreed.
Standout dish: Pigeon pithivier with fig and amaretto
Neighborhood, the Hong Kong number six (32), made its debut on the list this year, thanks to its widely-praised French-Italian fare. A new offering from David Lai, that serial restaurateur, Neighborhood is blatantly minimimalist, with the food apparently left to do all the talking. Thankfully its unique combination of flavours, at once delicious and down-to-earth, clearly spoke to the judges. To keep things interesting, Lai is continually changing the menu, with recent highlights including wild boar garganelli, bone marrow and kale risotto, and bouchot mussels in green curry.
Standout dish: Local chicken rice, aged yellow wine sauce
Baked abalone puff from Lung King Heen
It came as a bit of a shock to the Four Season’s team that its authentic Canto restaurant, Lung King Heen, dropped five places to number 24 overall this year. It can take some comfort, however, from the fact that it is rated as the fifth best place to eat in Hong Kong. This, of course, is largely down to the sterling work of Chef Chan Yan-tak, who continues to provide the very finest Cantonese cuisine, including barbecued suckling pig, braised goose webs with Chinese mushrooms in casserole and crispy scallops with fresh pea.
Standout dishes: Baked whole abalone puff with diced chicken
While Lung King Heen fell this year, another Hong Kong Cantonese restaurant, The Chairman, impressed by rising 25 places to take the number 22 spot overall (number four in Hong Kong). Clearly more than pleased with the restaurant’s performance, owner Danny Yip said: “We didn’t expect anything – we were actually surprised we were on the list again.”
Standout dish: Steamed flowery crab with aged Chinese wine and rice noodles
Ta Vie was another noshery clearly on the up, surging from no. 33 last year, to no. 16 this year, while also being voted into the Hong Kong Top Three. With a name that means ‘your life’ in French and ‘journey’ in Japanese, it’s an apt epithet for an establishment that blends the very best from two countries that, between them, epitomise the finest European and Asian culinary traditions, all under the skillful supervision of Chef Hideaki Sato. Particularly commended here are the homemade pasta with fresh Aonori seaweed sauce and uni and the sweet-corn puffed mousse with shrimp and shrimp jelly.
Standout dish: Civet braised abalone with abalone shell
Baby lamb from Aveyron
Nobody expects anything but the very best from award-winning chef Umberto Bombana, a man rightly hailed as the King of White Truffles, so it was something of a surprise that his critically-acclaimed three-Michelin star establishment 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana dropped from fourth place overall last year to 13th this year (number two in Hong Kong). It has rightly won plaudits for a tasting menu that starts with confit abalone carpaccio, continues with black truffle risotto, blue lobster and baby lamb, before concluding with limoncello soufflé, grand cru chocolate five styles or marinated wild strawberries.
Miyazaki Wagyu beef strip loin from Amber
Standout dish: Baby lamb from Aveyron, aromatic herbs, black olive, barley and vegetables
While Amber, The Landmark, Mandarin Oriental’s French restaurant, dropped four places this year, down to seventh on the list overall, it is still the most highly-ranked Hong Kong eatery, as well as – for a stunning eighth consecutive year – the best restaurant in China. Revealing the secret of its success, chef-director Richard Ekkebus said: “We are a genuinely collective force, with our best days still ahead of us.” In another claim to fame, Amber’s signature dish – Miyazaki Wagyu beef strip loin with dulse and red cabbage slaw with oxalis, horseradish and pepper berry emulsion – is often cited as the most Instagrammed dish in Hong Kong.
Standout dish: Miyazaki Wagyu beef strip loin
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Image Courtesy: Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2018 sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, Four Seasons Hong Kong
Matsunichi review: Going green with Japanese gourmet cuisine
It’s not often that we hear about vegetarian options in Japanese cuisine. It is on this rather unchartered territory that we ventured as we started our gastronomic journey within the elegant dining space of Matsunichi, a contemporary Japanese restaurant somewhat hidden within the rather intimidating-looking Goldin Financial Global Centre in Kowloon Bay.
Go meatless with Matsunichi’s vegetarian platter
Authenticity and an artisanal dining experience can be said to be the twin pillars of Matsunichi. Riding on the tide of authenticity, the restaurant welcomes spring with a new eight-course ‘Vegetarian Vibes’ menu (HK$600), sourced only from the freshest produce from Japan.
Our affair with ‘haute vegetarianism’ started with the Tomato Tofu, which is painstakingly crafted from three kinds of tomatoes, and is perfectly paired with a home-made vinegar jelly that was refreshingly tangy and set the right note of anticipation for the next course – the colourful Vegetarian Nigiri Sushi platter. As easy on the eye as on the palate, the sushi platter was quite an interesting change from the heavier non-vegetarian sushi that we’re more accustomed to.
Assistant Executive Chef Miyasako Yukihiro cooking up a green revolution
However, the dish that won us over was the Tempura course, which only used vegetables known for their medicinal values. So there were the high-in-protein Maitake mushrooms, Butterbur buds – known for soothing migraines – and the vitamin-rich sweet potato, all coated with a crispy light batter. We particularly hearted the butterbur tempura for its soft-yet-crunchy texture.
The white peach sorbet with yellow pitahaya is perfect for warmer weather
The next course – Japanese rice with Edamame, peas, corn and Hokkaido kombu – was more tummy-filling than soul-satisfying to be honest, but best was indeed reserved for the last. The Peach Sorbet with Yellow Pitahaya (dragon fruit), with all its sweetness perfectly balanced with citrusy tanginess was a fitting finale to a meal that was as hearty as it was healthy.
Here’s to more plant power, we say!
Matsunichi, Level 2, Goldin Financial Global Centre, 17 Kai Cheung Road, Kowloon Bay, 3188 2760, www.matsunichi.com.hk
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
French-Asian sensation Le 39V combines haute cuisine with HK know-how
Main dining room at Le 39V
Chef Nicolas Raynal, it has to be said, is not comfortable in front of the camera. The helmsman of the new Le 39V glances uneasily at the looming videographer as he prepares yet another dish in the glare of the studio lights.
Explaining his natural inclination to shun the limelight, he says: “I chose kitchen life for a reason.” Indeed, Raynal couldn’t be further away from the new breed of epicurean mega-egos that dominate the current crop of cooking shows, including The Chef’s Table. An apparently simple Frenchman from the landlocked Clermont-Ferrand region, Raynal began his career as a restaurant junior, climbing his way up the culinary ranks until he was hand-picked by the award-winning Chef Frédéric Vardon to work in Paris’ legendary Golden Triangle.
Chef Nicolas Reynal heads Le 39V in Hong Kong
Vardon is the acknowledged visionary behind the original Le 39V, a renowned Parisian eatery that has merited a Michelin star every year since its 2012 launch. Situated on 39 George V Avenue, the restaurant prides itself on presenting neo-classical French cuisine that blends the sincere and the modest with the delicate and the contemporary.
Recalling his early years, Raynal says: “After working at Le 39V, I moved to Lausanne in Switzerland, but kept in touch with Vardon. Three years later, he called me and invited me to oversee the Far East branch of his restaurant – so here I am.”
Le 39V offers stunning views
Raynal arrived in Hong Kong in June 2017, playing a key role in the launch of Le 39V that following September. Summarising a clearly hectic few months, Raynal says: “It was my first time in Asia. I had a lot to learn and I had to do it fast.” Not least, the fastidious chef had only a few months to familiarize himself with the Cantonese palate, as heset about customising Vardon’s dishes in line with local tastes.
Outlining the scale of the challenge, he says: “We soon realised we couldn’t just transplant Parisian recipes here. Hong Kongers want extremely hot dishes and they are only too willing to send back food that’s too salty or too rich.
Blue lobster in ‘Pot au Feu’ ($630)
“While in Europe, you can predict what diners want – usually more of the same thing – here in Hong Kong, you have to be more experimental, with customers always open to tasting something new.”
For us, our particular ‘something new’ began with an Amuse-bouche of curry lobster spring roll, balanced precipitously on a small glass bowl of parsnip cream – a suitable prelude to a truly French-Cantonese affair.
Appetisers came in the form of seafood, a suitable nod to Hong Kong’s coastal location and its marine heritage. The juicy Roasted Scallops from Hokkaido (HK$620) then proved most delicious, as did the accompanying black truffle shavings and artichoke Jerusalem tortellini.
Roll crab with crunchy radishes ($460)
The Blue lobster in ‘Pot au feu’ (HK$630) was next up, a dish notable for its novel use of bistro cooking methods (pot au feu stew), as well as its substitution of the traditional prime ingredient (beef) for a more seasonal one (a hefty portion of lobster). A consommé of the latter was poured into the bowl, dousing the appurtenant seasonal vegetables and small raviolis with its nourishing warmth. The final starter came in the form of a Roll crab with crunchy radishes (HK$460), all immersed in a saffron sauce, generous and satisfying.
Of the mains, Le 39V’s bestseller ever since it first opened its doors is its Pigeon from France (HK$620). Although not normally huge poultry fans, we were soon won over by Raynal’s roasted and smoked pigeon breast creation.
Pigeon from France ($620)
To follow was Lamb from France (HK$590), a classic option for those who want a touch of the familiar – perfect morsels of confit (slow-cooked) shoulder with eggplant, roasted rack and saddle, tastefully garnished with anchovies.
The desserts, perhaps thankfully, were decidedly on the light side – the Soufflé (HK$250) with passion fruit, creamy calamansi and yogurt sorbet was baked to light-as-a-feather perfection. On a warmer day, however, a better option might be the Iced nougat cake (HK$240), a nutty concoction fetchingly topped with hazelnuts, pistachio and chestnut honey. Topping it all off, of course, were the mignardises, fast becoming staples of all the finest Francophile saloons.
Soufflé ($250)
For all its pomp and circumstance – impressive eagle-eye views and perfectly executed wine displays – the Hong Kong branch of Le 39V retains the best on offer from its Parisian mothership, while ably fusing that with subtle tastes of its eastern setting.
Overall, the restaurant manages to nimbly manoeuvre its way through a series of self-set culinary challenges, emerging wholly unscathed, largely on account of the able stewardship that comes courtesy of Raynal. As both chef and manager, he is clearly far from peaking, with his future progress likely to fascinate the city’s many foodies.
Le Pan: A review of Kowloon Bay’s ritziest restaurant
Taste-testing Le Pan’s seven-course ‘Hedonist’s Lunch’
Kowloon Bay has been undergoing a major revitalisation in the last couple of decades since the old airport relocated to Lantau in 1998, exactly 20 years ago. Nowadays, however, when one thinks Kowloon Bay, the following might come to mind: the Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, concerts at KITEC, the red monstrosity that is MegaBox (Hong Kong’s biggest ice skating rink!) and maybe the cinema at Telford Gardens.
How about the most opulent brunch you could possibly find this side of the harbour?
Kowloon East has finally gotten its own swanky Saturday bubbles ritual by way of Le Pan’s elaborate Hedonist’s Lunch featuring seven courses of contemporary French cuisine in a positively palatial property effused with natural sunlight.
Admittedly, we were not prepared for the grandeur that greeted us upon arriving at Le Pan, in the middle of a heretofore unexplored industrial-looking area of Kowloon Bay. Located on the ground floor of a brand spanking new skyscraper, this expansive restaurant extends over 10,000 square feet – a far cry from the tight spaces of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.
One might feel a twinge of embarrassment, as we did, about not dressing up for such an impressive setting. But our nerves were quickly calmed upon meeting Herman Pang, Le Pan’s sincere and easygoing Assistant Manager. He even seemed genuinely curious about the hike we were planning to do after the lunch: the nearby “Suicide Cliff” on Kowloon Peak.
After Pang introduced the menu to us, we were then familiarised with the drinks as presented by Lauri Vainio, Le Pan’s Finnish Wine Director and award-winning sommelier. That was the beginning of the day’s free-flow champagne: Jacques Picard “Le Chapitre” Brut NV. If you’re celebrating something as we were, there couldn’t be a more opportune moment for this indulgent menu.
The meal started with a stomach-soothing chicken consommé followed by Royal Oscietra caviar in an oh-so-authentic tin; dig in and you’ll be rewarded with a satisfyingly salty Petuna ocean trout tartare. Crustacean lovers would love the fresh Fine de Claire oyster flown in from France, flavoured with the most subtle ginger vinaigrette. We got a taste of the sea, but it wasn’t overwhelming; texture was impeccable.
The seafood continues with the Blue lobster ‘piperade’, a concoction of arroz bomba grains and calamari: equal parts crispy, foamy and chewy. For the main course, you can choose between a lightly spiced Hapuka fish and jumbo prawns; Picalou French yellow chicken and Hokkaido scallop; or USDA Prime onglet ‘Bordelaise’. We went with the first and last dishes.
The ocean grouper didn’t quite melt in the mouth, but the prawn made up for where the white Hapuka was lacking. We had no complaints about the steak, which came in rich and filling cuts of tender beef with duxelles pureé (mushrooms) and grelot (pearl) onions.
And last but not least, dessert: the Tropical ‘rum baba’. If you’re a chocolate person, this might not be your cup of tea, but after such a heavy meal you might appreciate the fruity zing and spongey cake. There’s also a weighty cheese selection for those who prefer savoury to sweet.
If one day you find yourself in the vicinity of Kowloon Bay and feel like treating yourself to a stately experience, there is only one place to go. Complimentary valet parking beckons to those with wheels coming from the New Territories and don’t want to get stuck in downtown traffic. For the more centrally located, however, you would have to exhaust the champagne brunches closer to home before heading further afield to this rare gem in Kowloon East.
Le Pan’s Hedonist Lunch is available every Saturday, from noon until 3:30 p.m at HK$980 per head. Ground Floor, Goldin Financial Global Centre, 17 Kai Cheung Road, Kowloon Bay, Hong Kong. (852) 3188 2355. www.lepan.com.hk
Five daily diet requirements: Nutritionist Kim Murphy explains five daily dietary must-haves
Do you know your top five daily diet requirements? The five things that you must have in your diet at all cost? We caught up with acclaimed nutritionist and wellness consultant Kim Murphy (read more about her here) inside the cushy luxury of Cafe Siam at Kennedy Town to find out our five dietary must-haves. Chef Somchai of Cafe Siam also rustled up a few delicacies from their health-conscious menu (check out the full menu) at the same time, showing how healthy can also be hearty!
Interview: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay Video: Johnny Yau
Old is gold: Have you checked out Hong Kong’s heritage restaurants yet?
Hong Kong’s a city of paradoxes, a city where modernity and tradition can cohabit in harmony. No surprise then that among the city’s countless glitzy restaurants, a few have survived from its colonial past and are among the city’s time-honoured favourites.
One of the oldest surviving restaurants in Hong Kong, Jimmy’s Kitchenhas been one of the most renowned culinary destinations in town since 1928. Indeed Jimmy’s Kitchen has come a long, long way from its bare-basic structure of the colonial era to an impressive gastronomic landmark of Hong Kong. It has gone down into Hong Kong’s urban legend as the place where more business deals have taken place than any meeting room in the city. Its fares from British-era bangers and mash to Indian dishes and its wine cellars boasting more than 400 bottles of rare vintages are a huge draw for the crowds. Given its legacy it has transcended from being just a restaurant to a place where memories are relived.
Situated over breathtaking views from The Peak,The Peak Lookout is a perfect venue, thanks to both its food and location. The restaurant takes us down the memory lane with its old-world charm and a well-preserved collection of old photos. The restaurant’s humble beginnings date back to 1947 when sedan chairs were the only means of transport for the residents of The Peak. Sedan car carriers would gather at the site of The Peak Lookout as a resting shelter, which was later transformed to the Peak Cafe. In 2001, the site was renovated to its present setting. To this day, it is one of the oldest surviving restaurants in Hong Kong that carries its proud heritage with an elegant and intimate ambiance.
When Giuseppe and Aldo Macchetti first opened La Taverna in 1969, they conceived it as an “islet of Italy away from Italy”. Since then, La Taverna has continued to be a go-to destination for all those in search of authentic Italian food in an authentic Italian setting. Head Chef Marco Bajma says, “Even before I walked into La Taverna, I felt like I was in the high street of my home town. I breathed a real Italian atmosphere.” According to him, the emphasis has always been on remaining faithful to genuine Italian ingredients and Italian tradition. This is inherent in the name itself, which pays homage to their grandmother’s restaurant by the same name in Milan.
The Pawn, located in one of Hong Kong’s most iconic historic sites dating back to 1888, owes its name to the famous Woo Cheong pawnshop which was housed in the same venue. After extensive renovations, The Pawn reopened in 2014, joining hands with renowned British chef Tom Aikens who says, “Our intention is to serve dishes that not only appeal to local diners, but also travellers and foodies. Above all, we want to create a fun dining experience and a relaxed, informal environment.” And that’s just exactly what The Pawn is all about, with its offering of traditional and modern British cuisine across two floors, the bar ‘Botanicals’ and the restaurant ‘Kitchen’.
So have you checked out all the oldest surviving restaurants in Hong Kong yet? If not, now’s the time to head out.
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay Photos: The Peak Lookout, Jimmy’s Kitchen, The Pawn, La Taverna
