Places to visit to see vibrant street art in Hong Kong

Hong Kong — home to inspiring architecture, major international art fairs, Asia’s first Digital Art Fair and more… this city has time and again reinforced itself as the region’s international art hub. And the burgeoning sub-culture of street art over the years, is no exception — firmly marking its place in the city and garnering the support and appreciation of business owners, fellow art enthusiasts, and neophiliac Instagrammers alike.

From chromatic graffiti art tucked into alleyways and across shop entrances to murals that stretch as high as the buildings they are painted on, take a pause from the bustle of the city and stroll the streets of SoHo, Kowloon and Sai Kung to appreciate the dynamic sub-culture of street art. We spotlight the best spots to take your camera and for a shot of some of the city’s most beautifil graffiti and mural paintings.

Sai Kung

Explore Hong Kong's many street art sai kung gafencu
(Whale #4 by Bo Law; Photo courtesy of HKWalls)

After the cancellation of the 2020 HK Walls street art festival, due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the collaborative project by the non-profit organisation returned last spring with its 2021 edition, choosing the famous fishing seaside town of Sai Kung as its wide-scale canvas.

The festival, which aims to create opportunities for local and international artists to showcase their talents in Hong Kong through street art, graffiti and muralism, invited 22 local male and female artists to decorate the town with murals, giving this hip town and even fresher look.

A cluster of art works can be found around the Sai Kung Market and Sai Kung Garden blocks.

Wong Chuk Hang

Explore Hong Kong's many street art wong chuk hang gafencu
(Mural SeeNaeMe and Messy Desk, aka Jane Lee; Photo courtesy of Ovolo Hotel)

Over on the far south, the hip and trending town of Wong Chuk Hang makes for a fun weekend trip with friends and family. With a slew of new dining hotspots and a vibrant new coat of murals and street are to appreciate, the area serves up long stretches of art works located along Heung Yip Road, where One Island South is situated, and Wong Chuk Hang Road, the stretch of road on which Ovolo Southside sits. Make sure to also make a stop next to the Wong Chuk Hang Playground and Yip Fat Street. These Instagrammable spots are sure to be a hit with the kids and liven up your social media feed.

Wan Chai

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(Outside of Morrison Hill Swimming Pool by Kwan Clan; Photo courtesy of HKWalls)

While you’re down south, stop over at Wan Chai for some wide-scale and psychedelic murals. Starting from Morrison Hill Swimming Pool on Oi Kwan Road, you’ll find a long stretch of oriental-style graffiti work by group Kwan Clan, a collaborative effort among five Chinese artists.

Then, continue down the road and you will find several more creative pieces marking various buildings along the way, including the famous animal mural outside of the SPCA Building. And if you’re willing to stretch your legs farther, check out the realist art piece titled The Huskey by Yopey on Kennedy Street as well.

Central

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(Old Townhouses by Alex Croft; Photo courtesy of discoverhongkong.com)

Making your way in and out of the streets of the city’s shopping and dining hotspot SoHo is almost an adventure, especially when you’re on the hunt for the most iconic  murals plastered across shop entrances and tucked between shops and alleways. This area colourfully reflects Hong Kong as the cultural melting pot that it is.

Boasting some of the most Instagramed parts of Hong Kong and featuring some of the most recognisable murals around town, the street art here is hard to miss, but if you’ve never taken a second to stop and appreciate it, some of the trendiest ones to look out for are the vibrant Old Townhouses by Alex Croft outside of the GOD store on Graham street; Uma Nota’s iconic Flamingo lady by Elsa Jean de Dieu on Peel Street; the imposing Hollywood-inspired piece above Madera Hollywood Hotel; the beautiful twin coy by Christian Storm on Shing Wong Street; and the urban impressionism-style of Hong Kong by Dan Kitchener (aka DANK) and Charles Williams on Elgin Street.

Sheung Wan

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(Bruce Lee mural by Yoo Seung-Baik, aka XEVA; Photo courtesy of Longzijun via Flickr)

If you have the bandwidth to continue to Sheung Wan, proceed along Hollywood Road until you reach the stairway that leads up to square street to reach Tank Lane. Here, the journey takes you through a series of murals by local and international artists. This is also where iconic mosiac-style portrait of hometown hero Bruce Lee by XEVA (Yoo Seung-Baik) hangs overhead. And at the end of the trip, turn into Bridges Street to arrive at Tai Ping Shan where Instagram-famous teashop  Teakha serves refreshingly delicious chai and treats.

Sai Ying Pun

Explore Hong Kong's many street art art lane sai ying pun gafencu
(One Art Lane; Photo courtesy of yogawinetravel.com)

Farther down the western side of Hong Kong island, a quaint alleyway in Sai Ying Pun named One Art Lane transports you to a multi-verse of colours and quirky characters. Its alleyways and stairways are completely covered with a collection of 26 murals by 17 international and local artists. This spot is easily accessible by train as it is conveniently situated right outside Exit B3 of Sai Ying Pun MTR station.

The Mills

Explore Hong Kong's many street art the mills gafencu
(The Past and Future of The Mills by Uncle; Photo courtesy of The Mills)

Although Tsuen Wan doesn’t score high on the list of must-see places to appreciate street art, the latest revitalised heritage building, The Mills, formerly a textiles factory, does feature over a handful of murals along the wide entrance of its building if ever you are on this side of town or visiting the landmark.  

Explore Hong Kong's many street art hkwalls sham shui po gafencu
(Rainbow Thief by Okuda San Miguel; Photo courtesy of HKWalls)

Although Kowloon side doesn’t spring to mind when on the hunt for art, its old buildings and old-style Hong Kong aesthetic provides a stark contrast to the city’s earlier commissions of murals. Decades old buildings, shop shutters and high rises along Sham Shui Po, Prince Edward, Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei were given new life thanks to HK Wall’s 2016 project.

If you find yourself around the Yau Tsim Mong district, check out the iconic large scale multi-coloured geometric dog by Okuda San Miguel, named Rainbow Thief, that is plastered along the length of the Man Fung Residential Building in Sham Shui Po or the street art that decorate the infamous Yau Ma Tei fruit market and bustling stalls along Waterloo Road. In Mong Kok, the Public Square Street is a relatively new addition. You’ll surprised to see that these vibrant gems stand out and highlight the areas with an vibrant interpretation of Hong Kong’s multicultural city.  

Home Décor: Ideas to refresh your space this spring…

Some clean their homes in spring, others itch for a change of scenery, and then some just fill their carts… If spring makes you want to re-vamp, redecorate or realign, check our tight edit of quick design swaps for a refreshing look. Keep scrolling for some all-around positive vibes…

1. Houseplants for the ‘urban jungle paradise’ theme

7 design and decor tips to refresh your home a spring refresh nature at home

The easiest way to spruce up your living space with a spring aesthetic is to incorporate greenery – houseplants make the space 100% better – agree? Fresh floral arrangements and indoor plants are the easiest art installations to enliven the room with bright, warm, and cheerful notes. If you don’t have much of a green thumb, floral prints on textiles and wallpapers can do the trick. 

2. Rattan is in!

7 design and d irecor tips to refresh your home a spring refresh organic natural materials

Wicker, rattan and woven furniture and décor are pretty timeless design trends. From woven chairs and cabinets to wicker baskets and ottomans, natural materials add a touch of tactility and an earthy sense of nature to the home. 

Also Read: Green thumb success: How not to kill your plants!

3. Earthy, distressed colour tones

(Photo couresy of Milia Shop HK)

Rich earthy tones of marigold, burnt orange, dusty pinks, warm sienna, muddy yellow and rich burgundy have been making its way into the spectrum of earthy neutral tones. Simply glazed in a solid colour or matched with interesting geometric patterns and rich textures, these full bodied overtones offer a stiking contrast to traditionally earthy cream and beige colours. 

4. Bring in some old world charm!

7 design and decor tips to refresh your home a spring refresh vintage furniture

There is a certain charm that only aged objects can evoke. The rustic and subtle tears in antiques, vintage items, upcycled and repurposed décor adds character and personality to the home. Often the focal point of the area, they tell a rich history and interesting story, and not to mention it is also a great way to reduce your carbon footprint. 

5. Natural stone tabletops

7 design and decor tips to refresh your home a spring refresh Minotti-2021-Collection-A-brand-new-chapter-in-innovation-and-modular-versatility_MARVIN-03
(Minotti 2021 Lido collection; photo courtesy of Andante)

Move aside hardwood, natural stone tabletops are making a solid statement this season! Subtle and elegant these materials add depth and visual intrigue to the home, while also mirroring the soothing, natural aesthetics of the element. As a bonus, natural stone is versatile and flows in effortlessly when pairing with other furniture and décor styes. It fits right into any casual, luxe or contemporary space – saving you the effort and money off curating a whole new set.

6. Soft, curved lines

7 design and decor tips to refresh your home a spring refresh vintage furniture soft lines

Today’s interior design trends call for softer lines in the form of arched hallways, cocoon-style furniture, ribbed ceiling and fluted wall panels. Drawing the eyes to its relaxing ebb and flow pattern, and adding a calming aesthetic to the detailing of the home’s interior and décor.

7. Bold, vibrant prints

7 design and decor tips to refresh your home a spring refresh bold print vibrant pattern
(Photo courtesy of Indigo Living)

Firmly claiming its place on the hottest Spring-Summer trends across the board, bold prints and vibrant patterns are taking the spotlight. Replete with rich textures and a zesty splash of colours, these textures add visual depth to anything and everything, from throw pillows and tribal rugs to upholstered furniture, paintings and wallpapers. 

Also Read: Go with the Flow – How best to apply feng shui at home

A guide to some stunning hidden yachting destinations in Hong Kong

A horde of weekend yachting aficionados often descend on the waters of such popular locations as Repulse Bay and Sai Kung, no doubt drawn by the opportunity to escape from social distancing restrictions and work-from-home norms that prevail in the city today. However, the attractions of these hotspots have worn a little thin of late, fear not, for concealed along the coasts of Hong Kong’s myriad islands are a few hidden yachting destinations that might just offer a new ocean-going experience. 

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(Photo from seakayakhongkong.com)

Tai Tam Bay

Just beyond the shores of the touristy beachside hub of Stanley, nestled between lush rolling hillsides and several sheltered coves is Tai Tam Bay. Thanks to the protection offered by its surrounds, the calm waters here are perfect for paddle boarding, kayaking, jetskiing or swimming. Visitors can also choose to take a short hike through the small island, which leads to flowing creeks and cascading waterfalls just waiting to be explored. 

 

gafencu magazine travel Lesser known yachting spots to visit gmhk southbaybeach
(Photo from @fannylenses)

South Bay Beach

The southern coastline of Hong Kong island has some of the most popular beaches known to the city, but one that is less frequented yet still offers sweeping sea views, ample serene space and sandy shorelines is South Bay Beach. Among the most easily accessible hidden yachting destinations in the city given its proximity to Central Pier and Aberdeen Marina Club, popular activities here include wakeboarding and banana boating.

gafencu magazine travel Lesser known yachting spots to visit gmhk po toi island
(Photo from @dronepixelshk)

Po Toi Island

A picture perfect trip to the underrated southeastern tip off Hong Kong Island is Po Toi beach, located just 3km from Aberdeen and Stanley. Boasting scenic vistas across the ocean and the island’s natural rock formations, no trip here would be complete without visiting Ming Kee Seafood Restaurant, long a popular dining option for the city’s discerning epicureans. 

gafencu magazine travel Lesser known yachting spots to visit gmhk tung ping chau
(Photo from hellohongkong.com)

 

Tung Ping Chau

For those not keen on beaches or water sports but still wanting to embark on an adventure in the open sea, the striking island of Tung Ping Chau in the eastern part of the New Territories affords visitors a very different yachting experience. Formed entirely of sedimentary rocks that back some 60 million years, this multi-layered, brightly coloured geopark pretty much guarantees fun for the entire family, with activities like coast walking and fossil-spotting all very much on the itinerary. 

gafencu magazine travel Lesser known yachting spots to visit gmhk sham wan turtle beach lamma island
(Photo from volunteerhongkong.com)

Turtle Beach

Lamma Island ranks among the city’s most popular island getaways, but what many may not be aware of, though is that it is home to Turtle Beach, a turtle sanctuary and the only known nesting area for green turtles in the whole of Hong Kong. Also known as Sham Wan, this hidden gem is closed to the public between the months of June and October – the season where chelonians come ashore to nest and lay their eggs. During the rest of the year, though, it’s a beautiful, serene spot that allows visitors to commune with nature in a manner almost unheard-of in the city. However, if you’re looking to wakeboard or hop on a banana boat, heading to one of the other hidden yachting destinations may be more suitable, lest you disturb the indigenous animals. 

Charter a yacht

yacht charter simpson marine hidden yacht locations hong kong
(New Beneteau Swift Trawler 48, photo courtesy of Simpson Marine)

For those without a sloop of their own to venture out into open sea, you can look to charter a private yacht as a luxurious alternative. Asia’s leading yacht broker charters a slew of yachts with a wide range of itineraries for any, and every, occasion. Choose from their wide selection of brands and models for your next nautical escapade.

Lovely Lisbon: Ancient architecture, stunning coastal beaches and a world of colour

Paris and Rome may top the must-visit lists of most travellers to Europe, but there’s one seriously underrated capital that shouldn’t be missed. We speak, of course, of Lisbon, Portugal’s main city and home to roughly half a million souls, which annually draws some three million eager visitors.

Now a global centre of finance, commerce and tourism, Lisbon was first settled more than two millennia ago by the Phoenicians about 1200 BC, then enveloped by the sprawling Roman Empire in 138 BC. Nearly eight centuries later, it came under Moorish rule before being conquered by Afonso I (the crusader knight who restored the city to Catholicism and became the first King of Portugal) in 1147.

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Today, its multicultural history is still very much in evidence, rubbing shoulders with modernity with enviable ease. Spread across seven rolling hills and abutting the Tagus River as it spills into the Atlantic Ocean, Lisbon’s charming blend of the old – an attention-grabbing Moorish castle, ancient Portuguese architecture and vintage trams meandering through cobbled streets – and contemporary art, dining and nightlife make for the perfect vacation destination throughout the year. Here are the main draws of continental Europe’s westernmost capital city.

Kings of the Castle

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The Lisbon tramway

Located right in the heart of Lisbon, São Jorge Castle’s idyllic hilltop location affords 360-degree panoramas – a fact that no doubt influenced the ancient Romans’ decision to build its initial fortifications here back in the first century BC. Apart from accommodating the city’s Roman overlords, it was occupied by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians and Moors before eventually being enfolded into the Portuguese empire following the 1147 Siege of Lisbon.
Visitors are invited to explore the pine-shaded ramparts and climbable towers that punctuate the citadel or drop by the small archeological museum that houses artefacts from its long history. You can also stroll through the Castelo neighbourhood and stop at the Church of Santa Cruz do Castelo, replete with bell towers that offer sweeping vistas of the castle.

Towering Heritage

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Belém Tower, officially the Tower of Saint Vincent, a 16th-century fortification

Another of Lisbon’s stunning historical landmarks is the Belém Tower, classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its part in defending the country’s coastline during the Age of Discovery (roughly 1400-1700 AD). Perched on the northern shore of the Tagus River estuary, it was constructed in the 16th century during the peak of the Portuguese Renaissance, and retains much of its original Manueline architecture, though hints of Islamic, Italian and Moorish influences can also be seen along its ivory-white limestone exteriors.

Inside, sightseers can visit all four floors via a narrow spiral staircase. Highlights here include the King’s Chamber – with fantastic views from its Renaissance-style balcony – and the Tower Terrace, from which you can spot the statue of Christ the King and the Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge, as well as picturesque river scenes. You’d best have your camera on hand.

Exploration Imagination

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Jerónimos Monastery, an example of Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style of architecture

Located a stone’s throw from Belém Tower, the Jerónimos Monastery is yet another symbol of Portugal’s wealth and power during the Age of Discovery. Constructed by Manuel I in 1502 at the site of a hermitage where explorer Vasco da Gama and his crew bunked before departing for India, the expansive compound is also the final resting place of that intrepid discoverer of new worlds.
A veritable feast for the eyes, its columns have been carved with imagery of rope coils, sea monsters and other maritime motifs that trumpet the bygone era of exploration. Twisted turrets, plaited arches and intricate masonry are also evident across its many cloisters, which transport visitors to the heyday of the Portuguese Empire.

Ocean’s 450

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Lisbon Oceanarium, located in the Parque das Nações

Take a breather from ancient architecture and artifacts and round up the little ones for a visit to the Lisbon Oceanarium – the largest salt-water aquarium in the world. Constructed in 1998 for the World’s Fair, today it is home to more than 450 diverse species, from penguins and sea otters to sharks, stingrays, seahorses and octopuses. The Oceanarium is divided into four main tanks, each representing the four major oceanic systems found on our planet. While there are guided tours here, for something more daring to post about you can arrange an overnight ‘Sleeping with Sharks’ stay.

Sand and Surf

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Vibrant street art in Lisbon

Though Lisbon sits adjacent to the Tagus River, it’s also surrounded by some of Portugal’s loveliest beaches – particularly visit-worthy during the summer. These hotspots lie along four different coastal stretches, with those at Estoril and Cascais on the Portuguese Riviera being accessible by 35- or 45-minute train journeys. You can also take a convenient ferry ride across to the sands of Costa da Caparica, which is situated along the western side of the Setúbal Peninsula.

Whichever beach you choose, there’s a veritable treasure trove of ocean activities on offer, be it surfing, fishing, or simply taking a cruise along the coast. In stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of Lisbon life, the pace here is much more sedate, allowing you to relax fully and take in sunshine and the tranquil local atmosphere.

Scintillating Sights

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National Palace Of Pena, atop a hill in the Sintra Mountains

Should your schedule allow, it’s well worth arranging a day or even overnight trip to the town of Sintra. Located about 40 minutes west of Lisbon by train, this rustic town with its cobbled streets and traditionally painted buildings is home to one of the largest expat communities in the vicinity, and consistently ranks among the best places to live in Portugal. Dotted with pretty boutiques, family-owned cafés and past architectural glories, Sintra is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

A surprising collection of fairy-tale-like palaces, villas and castles can also be viewed here. Of these, the Pena Palace is perhaps the most peculiar – built in the mid-1800s, its fantastical Moorish-Manueline structure is a strange amalgam of domes, spires and fortifications burnished in bright yellow, strong red and stone-grey hues. Another wondrous site is the 10th-century Castle of the Moors, whose stone walls snake across the hills and cliffs in an impressive fashion. Have your camera ready as you climb its ramparts – on a clear day, you can not only spy the city, but also see as far as the Atlantic Ocean.

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Asia’s Leading Private Jet Charter: Hongkong Jet at the World Travel Awards

The ever-changing global travel restrictions keep travellers at bay. Nevertheless, with the technical industry knowledge and strong operation experience, Hongkong Jet’s team has been able to support the travel needs of their clients. They have operated over 220 international flights and accumulated more than 550 flying hours with excellent safety records since the outbreak. 

Hongkong Jet proudly announces that it has been awarded ‘’Asia’s Leading Private Jet Charter 2021’’ at the World Travel Awards

With more than a decade of experience in the private jet industry, Hongkong Jet’s team remains committed to show clients the best aviation has to offer. Passengers can expect the most cost efficient personal flight plans accompanied by excellent real time service for any assistance or last minute changes to their charter flights. 

Hongkong Jet proudly announces that it has been awarded ‘’Asia’s Leading Private Jet Charter 2021’’ at the World Travel Awards

The market is fully optimistic about the recovery of air travel with an increasing number of travel bubble and green lane agreements established by different countries. Given private aviation offers more privacy, safety, flexibility and comfort than scheduled flights, flying private may become a new normal especially in the aftermath of COVID-19.

For more information, please contact the team via charter@hongkongjet.com.hk or +852 3126 1026.

Pulse of the Peak: Chronicling the ascent of Asia’s oldest furnicular

After almost a year of waiting, the sixth generation Peak Tram is set to launch by summer 2022 — trundling up and down the heavily forested slopes of Victoria Peak for 133 years, we look back at colourful history and the old world charm of this meticulously designed modern classic…gafencu the peak tram reopening

Trundling up and down the densely forested slopes of Victoria Peak for 133 years, the tramcar has long been the best way to see the sights from atop, to soak up the panoramic vistas and to absorb the boundless energy of a sleepless city that rises from sea level to Mid-Levels. For generations of families and millions of visitors, doing a weather check and then hopping on Asia’s oldest funicular railway to creak up to the Peak has been a holiday ritual.

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Humble Beginnings
Altitude is affluence in Hong Kong. By default, the higher you live, the wealthier you are. Mansions on the elite Victoria Peak make for some of the costliest real estate in the world. In the early years before the Peak Tram was constructed, just 30 or 40 well-heeled British families were in residence. From 1904 for nearly half a century, under a racially discriminatory ordinance passed by the colonial government, Chinese nationals were banned from living there unless they were domestic workers. Once that abhorrent European privilege changed in 1947, navigating the heavily forested slopes of the Peak was unequivocally possible because of the Peak Tram.

Pause for a moment and wonder how the people of the Peak functioned before the tram. With no speeding cars, mass transit system or fossil-fuelled vehicles, hauling up and down that staggering height for an arduous hour or more in sedan chairs, on horses, mules or on foot would undoubtedly have required beastly strength and, in the summer, buckets of sweat.

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More of a tourist attraction than a commuter train in today’s world, the Peak Tram climbs the 1.4km from Central in eight to 10 minutes, ascending a dizzying height of almost 400m, and navigating a 27-degree gradient on the most thrilling stretch of its single-track route. It is not only the most efficient route to the top but also the most picturesque. The journey in a boxy, burgundy carriage to the city’s best vantage points is a visual and visceral feast, revealing spellbinding views.

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Most of the credit for the gravity-defying funicular goes to an enterprising Scot, Alexander Findlay Smith. A young entrepreneur with a background in railways, Smith arrived in Hong Kong in the 1860s and built the prestigious Peak Hotel atop the Victoria Peak in 1873. Fascinated by the potential of combining rails and wheels, he suggested the ambitious plan for a tramcar to increase trade for his hotel.
Approval for the construction of tracks across the mountainous terrain was granted in 1882, allowing the colossal work of laying track to begin. Machine parts often weighing up to 136kg each were carried uphill by brute manpower. Six years of blood, sweat and tears later, the first generation of the Peak Tram was ready for its inaugural ascent.

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Crafted from varnished timber, the car had a seating capacity of 30 passengers; for many years the first two seats were reserved for the Governor of Hong Kong, whose summer house, Mountain Lodge, was then on the Peak. Some 800 passengers rode the tram on the first day, and 150,000 in the first year – to put this number into perspective, in 1888 that was the entire population of Hong Kong.

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A Slice of History
A revolutionary feat of engineering for a genius mode of transport, the first Peak tramcars were powered by coal-fired steam. The original price for a first-class ride was 30 cents, with 20 cents for second-class seats and 10 cents for third class, and tickets for the return journey slashed by half. At the last count this year, a single ticket was HK$37, thousands of times higher than the early fare, but only the cost of a Starbucks latte for a vintage Hong Kong experience.

The nostalgic, colonial vibe of the tramway, with its characteristic wooden benches, hasn’t really changed in 133 years, nor indeed the necessity of queuing for hours at peak times to board a crammed carriage. But in tandem with the extraordinary vertical growth of the majestic city skyline, the technology and structure of the funicular itself has undergone a series of makeovers since it first set wheels on the hilly terrain. The power system switched to electric in 1926; the tramcars began their shift from wood to metal in 1948; and the colour of the carriages went from deep red to green and then back to burgundy. Since the fifth-generation Peak Tram (car capacity: 120) was rolled out in 1989, it has carried some 140 million people up and down for day trips, evening dinners and scenic strolls around the summit.

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A Tramcar Called Nostalgia
A further, highly anticipated modernisation has been underway. The massive HK$700 million facelift during the last eight months will reveal a passenger-capacity uptick to 210 and a weekend waiting-time cut from 90 minutes to a mere 17 minutes. The upper and lower terminuses will be extensively renovated to accommodate the bigger cars, and the control and signalling systems completely overhauled.

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An emblem of Hong Kong, the Peak Tram has withstood the ruins of the Second World War, survived epic hillside floods and braved the current pandemic. Before 2019, it recorded an annual ridership of six million – roughly 17,000 passengers a day – and even during the peak of Covid-19, patronage stood steady at one million. It’s one of the oldest forms of public transport and a slice of local history.
Owned by the Hong Kong and Shanghai Hotels since 1971, the tramway is a landmark in the same ilk as the group’s grand-dame property, The Peninsula Hong Kong. It takes a place of pride in Hongkongers’ hearts. Hundreds of people queued for hours to ride in those iconic burgundy carriages one last time before the service closed at the end of June.

In a futuristic megapolis, the humble carriages of the Peak Tram are a reminder of the contrasts that define Hong Kong – of old and new, gritty and glossy – and they serve as a social bridge between the rich and the poor. Yes, you can whoosh to the top of the Peak in your Ferrari, but is it as enriching as chugging up in an ancient time capsule, wind caressing the hair as you reminiscence about the first tram journey you took as a child? The 10-minute ride to the top brings awe and perspective, changing more than just how you travel.

(Text: Nikita Mishra)

On Old Town Time: The ultimate Lijiang travel guide

There’s something mystical about Lijiang. More specifically, there’s something mystical about the Old Town of this famed Yunnan city. Perhaps it’s the meandering waterways, or the maze of cobbled streets lined with old-fashioned wooden houses. Perhaps it’s the plethora of ethnic-minority folk in traditional costumes. Whatever the case may be, Lijiang’s colourful sights and undeniably nostalgic aura have enchanted and enticed travellers for centuries, and latterly seen it immortalised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The_black_dragon_pool Lijiang, China Gafencu Travel March 2022

The political, commercial and cultural hub of the Naxi people since the seventh century AD, Lijiang subsequently came under the auspices of the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties of China. Yet, for many centuries, it was ruled by a single family, the Mu Clan. Thanks to a strategic position along the ancient Tea Horse Road – a network of caravan paths that traversed Sichuan, Yunnan, Burma and the Indian subcontinent – it was a crossroads for multiple ethnicities, and today remains a cultural melting pot that offers fascinating insights into China’s diverse indigenous populations.

Beyond that, however, Lijiang is blessed with splendid natural wonders, be it the soaring Jade Dragon Snow Peak, the impressive Tiger Leaping Gorge canyon or the tranquil Black Dragon Pool. Onward, then, to our round-up of the most visit-worthy spots in this compelling Chinese city.

Heritage Trail

Lijiang, China old town Gafencu Travel March 2022
Quaint, charming and romantically nostalgic, the Old Town of Lijiang in modern-day Guzheng district is understandably the city’s biggest tourist attraction. Given the confluence of picturesque waterways, 354 criss-crossing bridges and traditional Ming dynasty (1368-1644 AD) architecture, strolling along its cobblestone streets is akin to being transported back to much simpler times.

A UNESCO heritage location since 1997, it also affords a revealing window into the vibrant cultures of the Naxi, Bai and Tibetan minorities. Visitors can sample local delicacies such as chickpea bean jelly and baba (stuffed flat bread that can be either sweet or salty), and – if they’re lucky – catch a spontaneous circle dance led by women wearing colourful costumes. Trying on and perhaps purchasing these ornate garments is also a highlight of a stay here.

Yunnan Clan

Temple in the Jade Spring Park in Lijiang, China
Temple in the Jade Spring Park in Lijiang, China.

Located within the Old Town, Mufu Palace was once the residence of the Mu family, the hereditary chieftains who ruled the region until 1723. Though little is known about the clan’s origins, they governed the town well before Lijiang was incorporated into the newly risen Ming dynasty in the 14th century. In recognition of their legitimacy under the new regime, the Hongwu Emperor gave its then-leader, A-chia A-te, the Chinese name ‘Mu De’, with ‘Mu’ henceforth becoming the family’s official surname.

In its heyday, the Mufu Palace spanned some 16 acres. Sadly, military battles during the Qing dynasty would see much of its structure razed to the ground. Thankfully, the government initiated a complete rebuilding at the end of the 20th century, and today the complex not only offers an intimate look at both the official and personal quarters of the Mu clan, but also showcases an interesting blend of the Yuan, Ming and Qing architectural styles.

On Dragon Pond

Jade_Dragon_Snow_Mountain_Lijiang, China Gafencu Travel March 2022
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang China

A short walk north of the Old Town lies the resplendent Black Dragon Pool, set against the stunning backdrop of the snow-capped Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – the region’s tallest mountain at 5,596m. Built in 1737, it is officially listed in the government’s ‘Collection of Famous Pools in China’ and is part of the scenic Jade Spring Park. Perhaps one of the town’s most photogenic places, the pond abuts several beauty spots, including the Longshen Temple – also constructed in 1737 – the Moon-Embracing Pavilion and the Forest of Stone Steles. The latter is a museum housing some 3,000 steles – or standing stone slabs – with the most historically significant revealing the evolution of Naxi culture across the ages from the Tang dynasty (618 – 907 AD) to the 20th century.

Leaping Tiger

Lijiang, China Tiger Leaping Gorge Gafencu Travel March 2022 (2)
Tiger Leaping Gorge in Yunnan, China,

For those eager to explore beyond Lijiang, a trip to the Tiger Leaping Gorge may be just the ticket. Situated 60km from the town proper, the awe-inspiring gorge stretches some 15km along the Jinsha River, which wends its way between the towering Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the neighbouring 5,396m Haba Snow Mountain. It is the deepest river canyon in China, with a staggering drop of 3,900m from mountaintop to river bed. 

Avid hikers may choose to walk its entire length, but most tourists are drawn to one spot in particular – the narrowest point of the gorge with a boulder perched in the middle. Why, you may ask? Because this is the spot where, according to legend, a tiger being tracked by a hunter found itself trapped between the gushing waters and certain death. In a bid to escape, the feline took a literal leap of faith and reached the other side of the 25m-wide expanse by jumping to and from the aforementioned boulder, thus finding freedom and giving the gorge its name.

Ladies of the Lake

Lijiang, China lugu lake Gafencu Travel March 2022
Lugu Lake, Liajing, China

Explorers willing to undertake the four-hour drive to Lugu Lake (on the border of Yunnan and Sichuan) will find their patience rewarded. Known as the ‘pearl of the plateau’, the lake – the highest in Yunnan and the third deepest in China – boasts crystal-clear waters surrounded by verdant mountains. Comprising four peninsulas and six islands, its shores are home to many ethnic minorities, including the Norzu, Yi, Pumi, Tibetan and those close relatives of the Naxi, the matriarchal Mosuo people.

There’s much to see and do here, so opting for at least an overnight stay is highly recommended. Through tour operators in Lijiang, you can arrange such experiences as canoeing through the pristine water, cycling along its perimeter, visiting the various villages that dot the lake’s shores, and partaking in a thrilling bonfire party where the locals don traditional garb and sing and dance into the night. If you’re feeling particularly daring, you can even sample some homegrown spirits, join in the festivities and soak up some of the indigenous Mosuo charm.

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Roman Legacy: Exploring the breathtaking sights of Italy’s capital city

As the centre of one of the most powerful ancient civilisations, Rome has fascinated and enchanted people the world over for millennia. Aptly dubbed the Eternal City – its founding dates back some 2,800 years to 753 BC – this UNESCO World Heritage Site is brimming with historic monuments and artefacts that illuminate its importance and relevance through the ages. Indeed, even today, it wouldn’t be a stretch to say that elements of ancient Rome continue to impact our daily lives, be it through culture, healthcare, education or even democratic rule. 

Colosseum_in_Rome,_Italy_gafencu_travel

Unsurprisingly, then, its modern-day incarnation consistently tops the must-visit lists of travel publications across the globe, with the metropolitan city’s 4.3 million inhabitants annually overrun by nearly double their number in tourists during pre-Covid times. So what, exactly, draws these intrepid travellers? Ancient wonders? Majestic artworks? Delicious food? A vibrant culture? The answer: all of the above. Here are some of the most iconic sites to feast your eyes upon when in Rome…

roman italy gafencu art architecture

Glory & Gladiators

Perhaps the most instantly recognisable tourist destination in Rome, the oval amphitheatre known as the Colosseum lies at the heart of the city. So intrinsically linked is it to the Italian national identity that it even graces the country’s five-cent coin. Construction of this massive arena was completed in 80 AD under the rule of Emperor Titus, and during its heyday, the structure – originally dubbed the Flavian Amphitheatre – could hold as many as 50,000 eager spectators.

Today, the massive limestone, tuff and concrete building may be devoid of the skilled gladiators, exotic animals and roaring crowds that occupied it some two millennia ago, but its historic and dramatic aura remains palpable. The venue boasts countless items of interest, but the time-pressed traveller should make sure to visit the morbidly named ‘Gate of Death’ – through which the dead and injured were carried out of the Colosseum – the arena floor where matches took place, and the hyper exclusive hypogeum, the complex labyrinth of tunnels that competitors and staff used to navigate the edifice’s length in ancient times. While the former is open to general-admission ticket holders, the latter two are only accessible via guided tours.

roman italy gafencu art architecture

Epicentre of the Empire

Located a stone’s throw from the Colosseum is the Roman Forum. For centuries, this rectangular plaza dictated the rhythm of life in the city. It was the venue where triumphal processions ended along the Sacred Way, where commercial affairs occurred, where elections, trials and public speeches were held, and where Rome’s politicians decided the fate of all those living within its far-flung empire. Despite the fact that much of the original structure has since crumbled with the passage of time, an air of importance and solemnity still marks the remaining temples and pillars.

To get an insight into how it originally appeared, head to the Curia Julia. The former home of the Roman Senate – centuries before being converted into a church – remains one of the most intact structures at the Forum. Further on, you’ll find the Arch of Septimius Severus, which was constructed in 203 AD by the eponymous emperor to celebrate his victory over the Parthians (whose ancient empire lies in modern-day Iran). One of the largest arches in Rome, it stands some 23m high and boasts intricately carved reliefs. Among the temples venerating various deities on site, the Temple of Caesar (dedicated to Julius Caesar) is perhaps of foremost importance.

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Eye for Art

In a city awash with ancient ruins, it is perhaps the Pantheon that stands today as the most complete. Thought to be over 2,000 years old, the temple – originally believed to be dedicated to pagan deities like Neptune, god of the sea – became a Catholic church in 609 AD and features stunning works by some of Italy’s most renowned Renaissance painters. This includes the legendary Raphael, who would eventually make the Pantheon his final resting place, and whose tomb can still be visited. Perhaps even more impressive, though, is its dome, a 43m-high perfect half-sphere with a central open-air oculus. An impressive architectural feat for its age, the majesty of its soaring walls continues to thrill travellers to this day.

roman italy gafencu art sight seeing

Stairway to History

Having featured in such notable movies as Roman Holiday (1953) starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn, 1999’s The Talented Mr Ripley and more recently in 2015 spy-thriller The Man from U.N.C.L.E., the Spanish Steps are one of Rome’s most popular sights. First constructed in 1725, the stairway immediately became a hotspot for English visitors stopping in the city during their Grand Tour. Today, its popularity remains undiminished, and the top of the 135-step climb remains a great space to take in the city’s sights and people.

roman italy gafencu art culture

Appetite for Piazza

Past splendour and modernity meet in spectacular fashion at the Piazza Navona, a capacious open-air square punctuated with classic architecture, Baroque water features, historic churches alongside street artists, contemporary eateries and even a selection of retail outlets. At its centre stands Bernini’s iconic Fountain of Four Rivers, while underneath, you’ll find the Stadium of Domitian, a UNESCO site that was once an ancient athletics stadium seating some 20,000 spectators. Some of the city’s best culinary offerings can be found in the square, including traditional Roman-style pizza and mouth-watering pasta dishes such as cacio e pepe.

For a peek into local life, venture forth to Campo de’ Fiori, another open-air plaza just to the south of Piazza Navona. Since 1869, it has hosted a daily fish and vegetable market, and city dwellers gather to peruse the copious fresh, locally sourced produce. Once the sun dips below the horizon, the market gives way to outdoor cafes, where you can mingle with locals and toss back a well-deserved espresso – or beer – or several. Saluti.

 

The full version of this feature appears on Gafencu Magazine’s February 2022 print issue as ❝Roman Legacy❞ by Tenzing Thondup. Download the free app (iOSAndroid) for digital editions of the magazine.

 

Grand Ol’ Grenoble: France’s capital of the alps

Nestled at the foot of the French Alps, the French city of Grenoble immediately makes a strong visual statement to any visitor. During summer, the towering mountains that surround it are lush with verdant green forests, while winter sees them transform into snow-capped peaks, but whatever season you visit, it boasts one of the most beautiful natural vistas anywhere in Europe.

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Boasting a population of just 160,000 inhabitants, the city was first settled over two millennia ago in 43BC by a Gallic tribe. First known as Cularo, it was conquered by the Romans some three centuries later, and passed through the hands of the Kingdom of Burgundy and the Holy Roman Empire before coming under the sway of the Counts of Albon in the 11th century. These rulers later adopted the title of ‘Dauphin’, and when the city joined the French empire in 1349, it was upon the condition that heirs to the French crown would henceforth use that selfsame title.

Today, in addition to being an important centre for academia and mountain sports – no doubt aided by its proximity to the French Alps – Grenoble also boasts a plethora of historic sites, countless museums and art galleries, and much more besides. Without further adieu, we delve into the top sights of this picturesque French city… La BastillePerched atop Mount Rachais, La Bastille is perhaps one of Grenoble’s most popular tourist destinations. 

Grand Ol' Grenoble France's capital of the alps gafencu travel feature

Its construction dates centuries back to the Middle Ages, and its strategic location has seen it experience a series of military campaigns, including the successful rebuffing during 19th century against the invading troops of the Duchy of Savoy. Boasting a system of soaring walls and Mandarin Caves, the maze-like defensive system built beneath the fort’s very foundations, it was truly a military engineering marvel of its age. Today, in addition to exploring its passageways, travellers can also visit the small but interesting on-site military museum expounding La Bastille’s history. Thanks to its elevated position, it also affords some of the most spectacular views across the city.

The cable car

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One of Grenoble’s most iconic landmarks – and the speediest means of reaching La Bastille’s elevated heights – is the Cable Car. Built in 1934, it holds the distinction of being the world’s first urban cable car. Nearly as popular as the fort itself, its bubble-like carriages offer spectacular views across the surrounding landscape beyond the city, be it the wending Isère River or the tower Alpine peaks – including France’s tallest peak, Mont Blanc, on a good day – in the distance. Given the hill’s vertiginous incline, however, this is one attraction that acrophobic visitors may want to skip. 

Parc Paul Mistral

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Situated right in the heart of Grenoble, the Parc Paul Mistral provides a lush, verdant oasis amid the city’s bustling atmosphere. Spread across some 67 acres, locals and visitors alike can partake in a plethora of activities ranging from playing handball and street hockey to taking salsa lessons and even signing up for board game tournaments. In the midst of the tree-lined avenues, you’ll also find the Perret Tower. Unveiled in 1925, this structure dominates the park centre day and night, though the addition of twinkling lights during the twilight hours make it a particularly romantic time to visit. 

Musée de Grenoble

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Built in 1994, the contemporary Musée de Grenoble is a must-visit for any art aficionado. Mainly housing a collection of modern art, it includes works by such 20th-century luminaries as Andy Warhol, Matisse, Picasso, Kandinsky and Joan Miro. Elsewhere in the complex is a section dedicated to fascinating ancient artifacts from the Ancient Greek, Roman and Egyptian civilisations. An exhibition showcasing the mummified body of 6th-century Egyptian prophetess Antinoe is a particular highlight. 

Musée Dauphinois

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The 17th century convent that houses the Musée Dauphinois provides an aptly historic setting for its expansive collection of exhibits on the native people of the Dauphiné highlands. Hardened by the volatile Alpine weather, these highlanders soon evolved their own distinctive identity and culture, and interactive exhibitions allow visitors to track their entire history. There’s even a section dedicated to expounding the evolution of skiing from its Stone Age roots right to the Winter Olympics, which Grenoble hosted in 1968. Elsewhere within the museum’s grounds, you’ll find a historic Baroque chapel, an ancient cloister and picturesque gardens to meander through. 

Grenoble’s Natural History Museum

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Given that there are over 2,000 art galleries to be found in Grenoble, you may feel worn out by all its culture and art in this fabulously creative city. But fear not, for the Natural History Museum will provide a welcome interlude. In addition to hosting interactive exhibits that allow visitors to physically explore the world of Alpine wildlife, the museum also boasts a veritable treasure trove of some of the rarest flora and fauna to be found across the region. Whether discovering the underwater marine life in the on-site aquarium or strolling through the stunning 20,000sq.m Botanical Gardens, this is one destination that will appeal to people of all ages. 

The Sassenage Cisterns

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A short 10-minute drive beyond the bounds of Grenoble lies the commune of Sassenage, a quaint town nestled between the river and the mountains. Here, you’ll find the fascinating Sassenage Cisterns – also known as les cuves – a series of vast underground passageways that were carved by the Germe River across millions of years. Thanks to its stark landscape, walking through these caves almost feels like journeying to the centre of the earth. Expect gushing subterranean rivers, awe-inspiring geological structures and natural wonders that are completely a world away from life on the surface. 

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Catch the most beautiful sunrise on these Hong Kong hikes

With the colder season settling in, it’s time to get your trainers ready for another hiking season. Hong Kong is undoubtedly blessed with forested trails and remarkably idyllic views of coastlines and city skylight. Not to mention, there are a slew of hiking spots across the city to catch the breathtaking sights of the break of dawn. To chase the first ray of light, here’s just where to catch the city’s most beautiful view of the sunrise. 

For an easy stroll: Breamer Hill, North Point

Catch the most beautiful sunrise on these Hong Kong hikes gafencu braemar hill
(Photo: Brian H.Y. via flickr)

For those new to hiking, Braemer Hill offers a gentle introduction to the beauty of hiking, leading you to a gentle first glimpse of daybreak with a beautiful panoramic sight of the city. 

How to get there: Take the MTR to Tin Hau Exit B and cross the road. Then, on the right, walk up towards Tung Lo Wan Road until you reach Lin Fa Kung Street West on the left, and continue towards Lin Fa Kung Temple. Here, you will find Lin Fa Kung Garden and a set of steps that mark the starting point of the trail. It’s best to keep your google maps on for this trek as the trail, although short, may be confusing. 

Distance: approx. 1 hour

Difficulty: Easy

Best for city view: Lugard Road, Central

Catch the most beautiful sunrise on these Hong Kong hikes gafencu lugard road victoria peak
(Photo: Johnlsl via flickr)

Another easy alternative on the other end is Victoria Peak, often recognised for its iconic postcard landscape. However a detour towards a lesser trafficked path on the side of the trail, also known as the running trail, leads treats hikers to a lesser known but gorgeous view of Hong Kong Island and Victoria Harbour. Talk about picture-perfect sunrise.  

How to get there: You can take a bus to Victoria Peak or hike up its morning trail to get to the peak then find the pedestrian path also referred to as the running trail just off the side of the peak which will lead to a viewing point. 

Duration: appox. 1 hour

Difficulty: Easy

For a challenging hike: Sunset Peak, Lantau Island

Catch the most beautiful sunrise on these Hong Kong hikes gafencu sunset peak
(Photo: discoverhongkong.com)

Although named Sunset Peak (because the sun sets here), this 869-meter high mountain actually serves one of the best views of the sunrise in the city. It is the Hong Kong’s third highest peak and is a challenge that does require a good amount of resilience and a bit of luck foe the weather to be on your side as it is a part of Lantau Island that does get foggy towards the top. 

How to get there: Although this trail is relatively straight forward with a single paved path, the difficulty comes in the form of a couple of hundred steps. Start at Pak Kung Au via bus 3M from either Mui Wo or Tung Chung and follow its paved trail up towards the peak. 

Duration: 4-6 hours

Difficulty: Hard

 

Best Overnight Stay: Tap Mun, Grass Island

Catch the most beautiful sunrise on these Hong Kong hikes gafencu tap mun grass island (2)
(Photo: discoverhongkong.com)

With natural rock formations, the beautiful coastline, expansive verdant plains of grass in the day, and a blanket of stars above throughout the night. Campers looking to wait out the golden hour and long night to catch the first light of day, will enjoy the experiencing of camping here. 

How to get there: Take a taxi from Exit B University Station to Ma Liu Shui Ferry Pier or a bus 94 from Sai Kung to Wong Shek Pier for a sampan ride across to reach Grass Island. 

Distance: approx. 1-2 hours

Difficulty: Easy

For Hong Kong’s highest peak: Tai Mo Shan, New Territories

Catch the most beautiful sunrise on these Hong Kong hikes gafencu tai mo shan
(Photo: Johnlsl via flickr)

Standing at a mighty 957 metres above sea level, Tai Mo Shan is Hong Kong’s tallest mountain, making it one of the most popular hills to trek among avid hikers. Although many visitors travel here to chase the sunset, its 3am pre-dawn hike up also makes for a trip well worth the climb if you’re up for early start. 

How to get there: Take bus 51 at Tsuen Wan West MTR Station and get off at the country park. Walk up to reach the radar station and continue along the trail until you reach the top.

Duration: appox. 6hours

Difficulty: Moderate

Best for beach stay: Shek O Beach, Sai Kung

Catch the most beautiful sunrise on these Hong Kong hikes gafencu shek o beach

Shek O is no stranger to the city’s eager beach lovers, a hot spot for swimming, surfing and barbecuing. But just before the beach gets overtaken by crowds during the day, this long strip of shoreline actually serves as calming spot to watch the night transform into a beautiful gradient sky just above the South China Sea coastline. 

How to get there: Take the MTR to Shau Kei Wan Station Exit A3  and hop onto a the red minibus number 9 to Big Wave Bay. Drop off at the U-turn at the junction of Shek O Road and walk for about 10 minutes to Big Wave Bay Village and beach. Afterwards, you can make your way along the Dragon’s Back trail for a moderately easy hike back Shau Kei Wan, as the trail is not recommended to trek in the dark.

Duration: 30 mins (without hike); 4 hours

Difficulty: Easy (without hike) to Moderate (with hike)