Clearly Superior: Tough as they come, sapphire watches cut a distinctive transparent dash on the wrist

The fantastic qualities of sapphire have been used to enrich high-end watches for many years. Sapphire crystal, whether natural or synthetic, is one of the hardest substances on earth, almost as hard as diamonds. Synthetic sapphire is formed by crystallising pure aluminium oxide at exceedingly high temperatures to form a single crystal structure that is transparent, virtually scratch-proof, and so hard that expensive tools are required to cut and polish it.

Nevertheless, major names in watchmaking are harnessing sapphire’s desirable qualities to produce innovative timekeeping instruments that push boundaries. Ultimately, sapphire crystal is favoured because of its clarity, durability and longevity, scratch-resistance, anti-reflective properties and high-temperature tolerance. Most often it appears as a protective crystal dome over the watch face and a transparent caseback to showcase the movement, but it can also be utilised for the entire watch case, the bezel, and on the hands to protect against shock.

Hublot has used all the fine qualities of sapphire to create the Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu watch. In this visually stunning creation, celebrity Swiss tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi of Sang Bleu studio has transposed his three-dimensional geometric craftsmanship onto a new iteration of the famous watch, imparting depth, transparency and aesthetic distinctiveness. The complexities of the polygonal tattooing necessitated machining sapphire that stretched the technology to its limits. Despite this, the Big Bang spirit remains intact, including its 42mm diameter and barrel shape. Sapphire features prominently, from the dial, with the HUB4700 self-winding skeleton chronograph clearly visible, to its case and bezel.

It takes more than 100 hours of work for the incised, chiselled, angled and faceted features of this watch to be machined into the hardness of the demanding sapphire material. Amazingly, the only non-transparent elements of the timepiece are the crown, the push buttons, the screws on the case, the 6 H-shaped screws on the bezel, and the folding clasp.

Hublot has also released a Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire watch, with its seven-barrel, 14-day power reserve movement, in an alluring “glacier blue” shade. The novelty is based on a new chemical formula that retains the brilliant, luminous, transparent and resistant qualities of sapphire while also acting as a magnifier for the emblematic barrel of the timepiece.

Limited to 25 pieces a year, Armin Strom’s Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple watch has a grey-toned off-centre dial utilising transparent sapphire crystal. Only seen in the Ultimate Sapphire editions, this material brings out the elegance of the purple main plate handcrafted in the atelier of Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen with a guilloché-engraved barley-grain motif. This vibrant hue adds additional panache to a range noted not only for its transparency but also for being the first automatic watch endowed with an equal-force transmission integrated into the mainspring barrel, providing consistent power transmission and ensuring constant precision.

Just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 Sapphire White from Swiss tourbillon watchmaker Bianchet is noted for being the first sapphire crystal case to integrate rubber seams into its construction. This remarkable fusion of materials and technology specifically made for this watch affords an unerringly clear perspective of the intricate movement housed within the softly curved tonneau case. In a timepiece limited to 21 pieces, the titanium-made components of the flying tourbillon appear to float – a trick of the ball-bearing mechanism – and are arranged under the principles of the Fibonacci spiral.

Harry Winston’s Ocean Biretrograde Diamond Waves Automatic 36mm model also utilises an open, transparent caseback made of sapphire crystal to reveal the intricacies of its HW3302 movement. This addition to the Ocean Collection has a white beaded mother-of-pearl dial set with streams of baguette-cut diamonds (51 in total) and baguette-cut blue sapphires (33). These precious embellishments to the watch face allude to the aquatic spirit of the collection and the movement of waves.

Limited to just eight models, HYT’s Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires timepiece fuses innovative tourbillon design utilising a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees with the aesthetic allure of sapphire gemstones in its construction. Three strikingly coloured and rotating sapphire gemstones – in fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – guard the periphery of the conical tourbillon while also serving to magnify the watch’s breathtaking heartbeat. Six slightly smaller sapphires rest within the tourbillon’s brackets, further elevating the attraction of the animated display, which is boldly encased in rose gold and black titanium and protected by a sapphire crystal dome.

Dressed with anti-reflective coating, the tough, translucent and scratch-resistant sapphire that forms the 45mm case and caseback of the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire Ice Blue watch by Bell & Ross is derived by melting alumina powder to temperatures exceeding 2,000°C. With aesthetics influenced by aeronautics, a dial composed of skeletonised faceted sapphire contrasts with the boldness of a blue anodised steel skull that sports a mocking smile. The mechanical BR-CAL.209 movement boasts a 48-hour power reserve and animates the skull and jaw of this remarkable 25-piece edition.

Utilising a case cut from a block of a standout material called NanoSaphir, the Tiny Purity Tourbillon NanoSaphir Chameleon watch by ArtyA exhibits a stunning light show on the wrist. While all the time maintaining clarity, its colour shifts in response to changes in ambient light. Treatments designed to alter the material’s optical properties mean that this high-tech, tinted synthetic sapphire will change from amber-orange to bright green depending on whether it is exposed to natural or artificial light.

Sapphire blue CVD coating distinguishes the striking dial of the Chronoswiss Delphis Sapphire watch, which also catches the eye with its three-dimensional construction and hand guilloché. Limited to just 50 pieces, it features the signature elements of the range – jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and oversized onion crown – in a case protected by double anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The transparent crystal extends to the satin-finished screwed-down caseback, further enhancing its durability and water-resistance qualities.

Multi-coloured precious sapphires embellish an exquisite iteration of Damiani’s Margherita Watch. This line of secret watches dazzles with a design derived from the shape of daisies.

Dynamic Ceramic: The high-tech watch material that offers scratch protection and a wearable lightness of being

Ceramic watches can project style and sophistication while possessing strength and endurance. The strong, light, scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic ceramic is usually created from powders like zirconium dioxide, zirconium oxide and yttrium that are pressed into shape and fired at extremely high temperatures. Add to this the elegance embodied in the material itself and these timepieces are among the most versatile in the market and are much sought after.

Take Blancpain’s new Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune, which for the first time offers all-ceramic options, with a bracelet made of patented black ceramic and case also hewn from this sturdy material. Two of the iterations bring contrasting colour to the dial in splendid shades of blue or green, a quite beautiful effect magnified in the light by the striking gradient and sunburst finish of the watch face. This is a sublime marriage of the strength of ceramic and the poetic reproduction of the brand’s statement moon-phase complication at six o’clock.

The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe range – introduced in 1956 by Blancpain as a diver’s watch that could be worn daily – has long been associated with cutting-edge timekeeping. All of the high-tech material is manufactured in Switzerland for environmental reasons, and it offers comfortable durability; the ceramic is an incredible five times harder than stainless steel. Meticulous craftsmanship enhances the line’s aesthetic qualities via its satin finish, as does the workmanship involved in the alignment of the bracelet links.

Omega has long appreciated the fine qualities of ceramic watches, whose lightweight and scratch-resistant properties suit arduous sporting activities while offering an elegance ideal for the chronograph. Just last year, the brand released the Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey model crafted using silicon nitride ceramic for the 45.5mm case, patented Naiad Lock screw-down caseback and bezel ring.

It represented an innovative step in the world of watchmaking, since this compound – two times lighter than zirconium ceramic – had never previously featured to such an extent on an Omega watch. An added benefit aside from its super toughness is its lightness, so it feels extremely comfortable on the wrist. Grade 5 titanium used by the aerospace industry dresses the bezel body, sand-blasted dial and folding clasp of the rubber strap, enhancing durability without loading on much additional weight.

A pioneer in black ceramic watches, Hublot has been changing the game over recent years with the introduction of a slew of brightly coloured variants. Models in vibrant red, blue and a striking yellow hue have successively been released. The latest is the Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic, like the others a coloured transparent ceramic achieved through the incorporation of pigments. To do this, zirconium oxide is heated to 1,700°C for colouration, while intense pressure renders only the colour pigments visible. Complex in-house R&D development has mastered every colour, resulting in a patented ceramic that is durable and scratch-resistant.

This latest Unico Ceramic, like the others, has a uniform hue with a mirror polish over the exterior components, including the dial counters and hands. Limited to 250 pieces and powered by the brand’s flyback chronograph movement, the 42mm-diameter timepiece is blessed with many of the signature features of other Big Bang models, such as a column wheel at six o’clock, bicompax layout, silicon escapement and skeleton architecture.

Roger Dubuis harnesses the material’s advantages by presenting two new black ceramic watches in the Excalibur family. A highly complex manufacturing process was required to ensure that the signature shapes of these timepieces were not compromised – the final grinding of hard material took 10 times longer than usual and demanded extreme craftsmanship. As a res ult, the 45mm case, bezel and crown of the Excalibur Monobalancier Black Ceramic edition are extremely resistant to marks of any kind. Housed within the case of the Excalibur Double Tourbillon Black Ceramic is the RD108 calibre and two signature tourbillons rebuilt with lighter materials.

By employing the benefits of both titanium and ceramic, Chopard grabbed collectors’ attention this spring with a new L.U.C Full Strike watch in ceramicised titanium, a material derived from oxidising the surface layers of titanium at extreme temperatures using electro-plasma technology. Aside from coming in an attractive anthracite colour, the 42.50mm ceramicised titanium case boasts superior hardness and shock-resistance properties, as well as lightness of weight. A verdigris brass dial with a finely frosted centre offers distinctive contrast.

A limited-edition release inspired by the design of stealth aircraft, the BR 03 Cyber Ceramic watch by Bell & Ross cuts a discreet avant-garde statement on the wrist. Worn with a rubber strap, the 42mm high-tech ceramic case is characterised by sharp edges, visually creating a 3-D effect and offering water resistance to 50 metres. The Swiss-made BR-CAL.383 automatic movement comes with a 48-hour power reserve. Also measuring 42mm in diameter, the recently released BR 03 Diver Black Matte Ceramic exudes a contemporary sporty appeal. A unidirectional rotating bezel in black ceramic with 60-minute scale circles the standout square case in the same material.

The bezel of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II is a gleaming 24-hour graduated monobloc of two-colour Cerachrom insert in grey and black ceramic. These special ceramic materials developed exclusively by the brand not only exhibit hues of rare intensity, they also are inert, virtually scratchproof and cannot corrode. Numerals coated with platinum applied via PVD (physical vapour deposition) serve to enhance the visibility of the moulded, recessed graduations.

Panerai embraces the modern marvels of the material in the Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic 44mm Ceramic. A Swiss-made P.9010 automatic mechanical movement with a three-day power reserve drives the timepiece, which is crafted from high-tech and exceptionally sturdy ceramic derived from a complex process in its manufacture. It has the signature features of the iconic Lumina range, including crown with protective shield for time adjustments and manual winding.

The peak of sporty endurance, Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere CARBO₂ 0 Oxygen Limited Edition watch is distinguished by a black ceramic bi-directional rotating bezel sitting on a titanium case devoid of oxygen. Creating the CARBO₂ case involves an engineering process that ensures extreme resilience at high altitudes with no danger of fogging or oxidisation.

Good as Gold: From red to lime to ‘magic’, a watch hewn from a golden hue radiates success

Luxurious gold watches undoubtedly carry an air of distinction and grace. Many believe these golden masterpieces of craftsmanship will somehow bring success and good luck, such is the distinctiveness of their charming colours. Another essential quality is their timelessness; these are some of the most elegant timepieces in the high-end market, and no fluctuations in the vagaries of fashion can diminish their intrinsic appeal. Indeed, their allure elevates any style of attire while projecting power.

The beautiful contrasting effect of colour tones that gold can inspire is surely what drove Vacheron Constantin to render four pink-gold models – chronograph, dual time, date in case diameters of 41mm and 35mm – from its Overseas Collection with a new green dial, a colour never used in the range before. The sheer intensity of this luscious, lacquered deep-green dial featuring a sunburst satin-finished centre and velvet-finished flange magnifies the splendour of its pink-gold case. This contrast was specifically designed to bring a new signature aesthetic to the brand’s sporty-chic watches. The new dial colour also enhances the legibility of the Super-LumiNova-treated pink-gold hour markers and hands.

The four models utilise self-winding calibres with a 22-carat pink-gold oscillating weight featuring the collection’s emblematic compass rose. The 18-carat 5N pink-gold case matches wonderfully with the integrated pink-gold bracelet whose polished and satin-brushed links, secured by a pink-gold triple-blade quick-release folding clasp with push-pieces, subtly reveal the Maltese cross.

Chopard emphasises that its recent addition of the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono in 18-carat rose gold is crafted from an ethically-sourced alloy – indeed all the brand’s models since July 2018 have taken the ethical-gold route, smelted at its own precious metals foundry.

The rose gold extends to the 44mm case that is water resistant to 100 metres, 8mm crown engraved with the compass rose, bezel with eight screws set at a tangent, and tapered in-house bracelet of wide links with satin-brushed sides, polished central cap, triple folding clasp and safety pushers. These myriad gold features offer a pleasant contrast to the bernina grey of a dial achieved by galvanic treatment – a colour palette evoking the Alpine landscape. Powered by the Chopard 03.05-C movement, the watch excites with its technical prowess of a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock whose hand makes semi-instantaneous jumps and an aperture-type date indication between 4 and 5 o’clock that also jumps semi-instantaneously.

Swiss master Gerald Charles has just released the Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon featuring a hand-hammered dial of pure uncoated 18-carat rose gold. It takes years of experience and fine craftsmanship to create these types of dials, and the hours of endeavour required results in only two per month emerging from the workshop.

Limited to just 50 pieces, each model is a unique statement with its face offering a homogenous feel and fine texture as well as durability and resistance. Interesting technical accomplishments include a blue bezel in grade 5 titanium with specialised coating derived from the aeronautical industry, and a 60-seconds flying tourbillon with a tourbillon cage, also in titanium, designed by Octavio Garcia and representing the Gerald Charles logo. The tourbillon also has a surgical-grade stainless steel case and a gold tourbillon bridge, all combining to create surreal three dimensional contrasts.

Hublot presents two new watches in its Square Bang Unico collection which utilise the properties of its scratch-resistant 18-carat gold known as Magic Gold.

Retaining the signature geometry of the iconic modern series, both the Square Bang Unico Magic Gold and Square Bang Unico Ceramic Magic Gold are crafted from a solid block, with the signature large bezel with six H-shaped screws forming a stunning statement piece. ‘Magic gold’, which has been certified as 18-carat gold, has extraordinary hardness and scratch-resistance qualities above standard gold – meaning these watches offer both durability and the lustre of the precious metal.

This year Rolex harnesses the luxurious qualities of gold via two new 18-carat additions to its Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller series.

Utilising the signature Calibre 9002 movement, a mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding properties via a perpetual rotor, these world-traveller watches feature a Jubilee bracelet in a precious metal for the first time – either the brand’s Everose gold paired with a slate dial or yellow gold juxtaposed with a white dial. Distinguished by polished centre links, satin-finished outer links with polished edges and ceramic inserts, the bracelet’s Easylink comfort extension link allows the option of an extra 5mm in length. The gold caseback, which is hermetically screwed down to achieve waterproofing to 100 metres, is edged with fine fluting. The precious metal also graces the hour markers, hands and bezel.

Last year Montblanc launched two versions of the Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva boasting an innovative bezel-activated chronograph.

Just 28 watches were manufactured with an 18-carat lime-gold bezel – compared to 100 pieces in white gold. A click of the unidirectional fluted bezel activates the chronograph, which stops with a second click, and is reactivated by a third push. The crown is fluted in lime gold and sports the Montblanc emblem in relief, and the dark green dial has beige luminescent Arabic numerals and indexes coated in gold.

Another standout gold watch duo can be found at Audemars Piguet. The new 34mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding timepieces reveal ‘Crystal Sand’ finished dials in 18-carat white or yellow gold that sublimely set off the frosted finish of the hammered gold case and bracelet with folding clasp. In a distinctive touch of contrast, the yellow-gold version has white-gold applied hour markers and hands. For each, the brand signature is applied on the dial in the same gold tone as the decorations.

Part of the Villeret collection, Blancpain’s Quantième Perpétuel Phases de Lune is resplendent in a 40.3mm red-gold case. Powered by the Calibre 5954.4 automatic movement with 72 hours of power reserve, the moon-phase complication displayed on the opaline dial accurately tracks the lunar cycles of the month, while the perpetual calendar indicates the correct date for a century without manual intervention.

Housed in a case made of 18-carat rose gold, the Ocean Date Moon Phase Automatic 42mm – Limited Edition by Harry Winston ramps up high-jewellery bling with scores of glistening baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds totalling more than 38 carats. Buttressed by its gold base, the glittering dial is further highlighted by a moon-phase disc coated with blue varnish and a yellow-gold moon cabochon crafted by hand.

Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and Salon de TIME commence 2024

Superb watch & clock fair a must-see event

Register now for free admission

Always guaranteed to attract watch enthusiasts and industry players from around the world, the 43rd Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, together with the 12th Salon de TIME, will be held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Center (HKCEC) from 3-7 September 2024.

The parallel events are jointly organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd and The Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd.

The fairs will return in EXHIBITION+ hybrid model, complemented by the “Click2Match”, an online smart business matching platform that will operate on 27 August – 14 September, providing a convenient and efficient platform for traders to connect.

World’s premier timepiece event – Be on Time

As the world’s premier timepiece event and one of Hong Kong’s mega events, the fairs provide a one-stop trading platform for the industry. Centred around the theme “Be on Time”, the fairs present an extensive selection of premium watches across various categories – from luxury and high-fashion designs to technologically-advanced and sustainable models. The diverse lineup also includes collaborative branded timepieces, limited editions, customised watches, and creations by independent watchmakers, offering buyers a dynamic and comprehensive sourcing experience.

Categories of Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair

For example,“Pageant of Eternity” displays a variety of high-end collection of exquisite finished watches. Other exhibiting categories consist of “Complete Watches”, “Pre-owned Watches”, “Clocks”, “Machinery & Equipment”, “OEM Smart Watches”, “Packaging & Display”, “Parts, Components & Accessories” and “Trade Services”, making it convenient for buyers to source.

Salon de TIME

Salon de TIME features renowned watch brands and designer collections in five themed zones: World Brand Piazza, Chic & Trendy, Craft Treasure, Renaissance Moment, and Wearable Tech. Salon de TIME is open to trade buyers and public visitors for the five-day physical fair period this year. Celebrity events, watch parades and lucky draw sessions will be arranged. Selected items are also available for sale.

Five themed zones of Salon de TIME:

• World Brand Piazza, the major highlight will display limited editions and rare timepieces of numerous international prestigious brands;

• Chic & Trendy features trendsetters and fashion-driven watch brands, including Ice-Watch (Belgium), Infantry (Japan), ROMAGO (Switzerland) and Bruce Lee (US);

• Craft Treasure showcases mechanical watches and flawless craftsmanship of jewellery-laden watches, including Anpassa (Hong Kong), Memorigin (Hong Kong) and SAGA (US);

• Renaissance Moment showcases classic and elegant watch brands originated in Europe, such as, Pierre Lannier (France), Gagà MILANO (Italy) and Solvil et Titus (Switzerland). Among them, the Swiss Independent Watchmaking Pavilion (SIWP), International Luxury Group (ILG) and Francéclat will showcase various outstanding independent watch labels;

• Oskron (Germany) in Wearable Tech will bring an array of smart watches with dynamic technology.

Highlighted Watches:

Watch of the Year: Barista Collection

Brand: STEPPER

Country/Region: Hong Kong

Milano x Change MXG3118 Men’s Wristwatch

Brand: Milano x Change

Country/Region: Italy

SPACE WATCH

Brand: SAGA

Country/Region: USA

MASSA DUE WATCH

Brand: AIGNER

Country/Region: Germany

WP4 Black Green

Brand: WATCHPEOPLE

Country/Region: Switzerland

Chronograph Analog Watch – For Men LC07319.360

Brand: Lee Cooper

Country/Region: UK

Captivating Events & Activities

An array of watch parades, seminars, buyer forums and networking events will be held during the fair period to present the latest market insights and inspiration to industry players and facilitate business interaction. On 3 September, representatives of major watch associations around the world will gather at the Hong Kong International Watch Forum to discuss the global trade performance, forecast the market trends for the coming year, and foster the global watch industry towards sustainability.

At the Asian Watch Conference on 4 September, a market research analyst from Euromonitor will reveal the latest outlook for the watch industry, while a representative from Huawei Device BG will share insights on the prospects of wearable technology. Leadership representing the brand of Pierre Lannier and France Horlogerie will outline the emerging trends shaping the fashion watch industry.

Watch & Clock Design Competition

To promote exchange in local watch and clock design as well as fostering creativity, the HKTDC, Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Associations Ltd. and The Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd. have jointly organised the 41st Hong Kong Watch & Clock Design Competition again this year.

Student and Open groups

Under the theme of “Talent Moment” for the student group and “Go Beyond Innovation” for the open group, winners will be announced at the fair and winning pieces will be displayed during the fair at Hall 1 Concourse. Newly introduced this year is the “The Made-to-Sell Award” which will be presented to the student group entry demonstrating exceptional marketability. The winning entry will be manufactured under guidance of the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd and will be officially launched in the retail market at HKTDC Design Gallery.

Enamel Polish: Intricately crafted grand feu dials take timepieces into another dimension

Enamel timepieces represent some of the most elegant and beautiful models available in the high-end watch market. The process of constructing an enamel dial is time-consuming and expensive. It involves fusing soft glass – usually made from silica – onto a metal substrate in an oven heated to about 800°C – hence the term grand feu enamel – and delicately applying layers of enamel powder by paintbrush onto a wafer-thin metal disc.

It is a temperamental material that may emerge from the oven with imperfections. Successive coats and multiple firing cycles are required for a uniform surface – the need for five or more layers of enamel is usual. Yet, the watch dials can be just a millimetre thick, if not thinner. The craft takes years of practice and often renders each dial unique.

A fine example of a dazzling enamel watch is Vacheron Constantin’s recent addition to its Métiers d’Art collection. Tribute to Explorer Naturalists embraces, in fact, four models each released in 10-piece limited editions and designed as a tribute to the scientific discoveries of the Voyage of the Beagle in the early 1830s. The dexterity of the master engravers and enamellers comes to the fore in the aesthetics of richly decorated grand feu miniature enamel dials displaying scenes from four locations along the coast of South America, where Charles Darwin encountered previously unknown plants and animals.

Encased in a 41-mm diameter 18-carat white or pink gold case and featuring a jumping hours and minutes display, each scene took a master enameller four days of meticulous craftsmanship to compose, using fine pigments on a two-level dial. For instance, the white-gold Cap-Vert model concentrates on the Cape Verde stop (January 1832), with the upper dial displaying the HMS Beagle in the centre, viewed from the stern, while the lower dial on the right enthrals with a montage of colourful flowers and luxuriant foliage.

Breguet’s Classique Dragon 7145 celebrates the Chinese zodiac with the powerful dragon exotically embellishing a distinctive dial composed of red grand feu enamel with gold applied – a perfect combination to bring out the majesty of the auspicious creature. Utilising a Calibre 502.5 self-winding movement housed in a rose-gold case, the watch is limited to eight pieces and blessed with a power reserve of 45 hours.

Chopard often calls upon the power of the enamellist to highlight the aesthetic qualities of a watch. Take its Imperiale in 18-carat ethical white gold, which has two enamel colour tones gracing the dial. Most noticeably, a deep, luscious blue-green enamel sets the tone of this feminine watch, which is encircled by white enamel-filled arabesques formed out of a raised white-gold decorative fillet. Its elegance is enhanced by a shower of padparadscha sapphires, diamonds and mother-of-pearl, as well as gilded openwork dagger-shaped hour and minute hands. A seamless alligator strap in blue-green or pink comes with a white-gold buckle set with diamonds.

Representing a first for the minimalist Louis Erard Le Régulateur model, an edition just off the blocks has a dial made with grand feu enamel. Unlike a traditional dial, an enamel dial comes without the risk of fading and the unalterable hue here is a slightly speckled ivory colour. It is the handiwork of the Donzé Cadrans workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland. The hours counter at 12 o’clock and the seconds counter at 6 o’clock come in two-colour enamel detail, fused together by the final firing. Crafted in polished stainless steel and measuring 39 mm in diameter, Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel is limited to 99 pieces, underscoring the exclusivity of enamel-dial watches.

Dedicated to métiers d’art, Geneva-based Taos has a range of one-of-a-kind watches that employ the luxuriousness of enamel. The Euphorie is dressed in a grand feu paillonné enamel dial, achieved through a multiple overlay of gold and silver paillons and enamel emanating from multiple firings. Its bold colour code comprises red, orange and black. The self-winding VOP318 calibre movement was developed exclusively by Swiss manufacturer Télôs for the independent watchmaker. The pretty Floréal model has a silver, blue and pink dial with a miniature flower painting etched out of mother-of-pearl placed on paillonné enamel. Delightful petals are formed out of cloisonné enamel.

The pink-gold Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ timepiece was released by Jaeger-Lecoultre in homage to the ancient crafts of enamelling and engraving. Both the dial and case back are composed of grand feu enamel in such a pure black hue that they required five or six layers of enamel to ensure the depth of colour is retained. This was a lengthy process as each new layer necessitated another round of firing and cooling – meaning the process took many days, eventually culminating in a half-day of polishing. Other notable features include the dragon etched out of pink gold and set among golden clouds on the reverse side of the case and the Jaeger-LeCoultre manually wound Calibre 822 movement.

Limited to 50 pieces, Blancpain’s Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar entered its second 12-year cycle this year with a new addition utilising full-fired grand feu enamel for its dial. Marking a first for this unique grand complication series that boasts both a complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase, it pairs red gold with a green enamel dial for a striking colour code. The patented under-lug correctors that facilitate finger-tip changes of the calendar are also worthy of remark. Another nifty mechanism protects from damage if settings are adjusted during automatic changes.

Cartier’s latest Crocodile Jewellery watches utilise the aesthetics and magical beauty of enamel to full effect. Graded enamel is used to recreate a sculptural creature in the guise of a crocodile which coils menacingly around the case and dial. The crocodile’s bright emerald eye, its scaly skin and slick curves crafted from enamel portray depth and realism and harmonise with the hues emanating from diamonds and gemstones adorning the timepiece. Besides a crocodile and a crocodile-cum-zebra, there are numerous other iterations of these bewitching, bejewelled animal watches that cannot fail to capture the imagination.

Seiko’s Presage SPB403J1 model in the Craftmanship Series features an enamel dial as part of its attributes, wedged in a 40.2-mm case made of stainless steel with super-hard coating. Its dual-curved sapphire crystal glass is daubed with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface. Powered by a 6R55 automatic manually wound movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, it is water resistant to a depth of 100 metres and has a see-through case back.

Geneva Invention: Showcasing the new crop of imaginative timepieces to watch and wonder

Watches and Wonders is the year’s standout event in the world of horology, a time when many watchmakers release new offerings to an eager public fascinated by the elegance, beauty and mechanical sophistication on display. The Geneva gathering also serves to reinforce the signature statements of the top manufactures.

Take Cartier, which pulled out all the stops to supplement existing collections with intriguing tweaks and exciting alternatives. A highlight was the exotic appeal of a different creature joining its menagerie of Animal Jewellery watches. The new timepiece is a breathtaking convergence of the aesthetic beauty of a zebra and a crocodile. This mythical multi-striped creature – a figment of the imagination – wraps itself around a lozenge-shaped dial of diamond pavé or black lacquer. The coiled design of the case, crafted from white, yellow or rose gold, is variously studded with green tsavorite garnets, rubies or black spinel, and each stripe is meticulously lacquered by hand.

The eighth iteration of the prestigious Cartier Privé line is a reworking of the Tortue watch, first introduced in 1912. Three hour-and-minute versions have a slimmer profile and are noticeably lighter than the original model while retaining significant design details including apple-shaped hands and a rail track following the curves of the iconic tortoise-shaped case. Collectors will surely crave the Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, available in platinum with a silvered opaline dial or yellow gold with a grained gold-finish dial. The monopusher chronograph graced the Tortue in 1928 and again in 1998, with the new version retaining many of the features of the reinterpreted model, such as the hollowed-out central seconds hand and triangle motifs at the corners of the dial, though subtle changes enhance the harmony of a cabochon-ruby crown set in precious metal. The movement is just 4.3 mm thick, and rhodium-plated Roman numerals, and the azure effect of the two chronograph counters distinguishes the dial.

New and innovative Santos timepieces were also introduced, in particular a Dual-Time model and the Santos-Dumont Rewind that can tell the time backwards via an inverted set of Roman numeral indices appearing counter-clockwise around the dial.

Rolex presented two new 18-carat-gold versions of its Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller watch for sophisticated jetsetters, both fitted with the supple five-piece-link Jubilee bracelet in precious metal for the first time. One model has an Everose-gold band distinguished by a slate dial with a sunray finish, while the yellow-gold bracelet of the other contrasts with an intense white satin-finish dial. Both have hands featuring highly legible Chromalight, which emits long-lasting luminescence and a blue glow. The brand has also made subtle updates to its GMT-Master II model.

Following three years of development, Van Cleef & Arpels debuted new Lady Arpels Jour Nuit (38 mm) and Lady Jour Nuit (33 mm) models at Watches and Wonders. In a simply beguiling effect worthy of the Poetic Complications collection to which these timepieces belong, their dials display a diamond-paved moon in continuous pursuit of the sun across a sky studded with stars. They are cased in white gold and diamonds, offer a self-interchangeable alligator-leather strap, and are powered by a self-winding mechanical movement that rotates a disk once every 24 hours. Aventurine glass, mother-of-pearl, white gold, yellow gold and diamonds dress the dial, with the larger watch encrusting its sun with yellow sapphires.

In another enchanting creation, two plique-à-jour enamel butterflies flutter among swaying flowers caught by a summer breeze on the face of the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été watch. The extraordinary dial of the Lady Arpels Nuit Enchantée watch depicts flowers used as a bed by a fairy after they are picked in the day (Jour Enchanté) version.

Patek Philippe unveiled a total of 11 new iterations, most notably a full production model of the innovative watch that was released as a limited edition last year with a world-first feature – a date display synchronised with local time. Utilising the patented differential system of its self-winding calibre 240 HU C movement, the World Time Ref 5330G-001 has a dial of blue-grey opaline with the date shown on its periphery.

When Ulysse Nardin first released the Freak, it was considered revolutionary for eschewing the traditional watch dial, hands and crown in favour of an orbital flying one-hour carousel and a balance wheel, hairspring and escapement made of silicon. For the Freak S Nomad, the hour disc that sits behind the ‘spaceship’ movement features a sand-dune-like diamond guilloché pattern with CVD (chemical vapour disposition) coating.

Of particular note among a slew of watches introduced by Grand Seiko during Watches and Wonders is the Sport Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC275. Released in homage to the 9R Spring Drive movement and limited to 700 pieces, its startling feature is a radiant colour-changing dial. Taking inspiration from the glowing colours emanating from the peaks of Japan’s Hotaka mountain range half an hour before and after sunrise, the watch face seems to strike a different hue depending on the viewing angle – a feat achieved by the brand’s patented ‘Optical Multilayer Coating’ system.

Another watch whose dial nods to nature’s beauty is Chopard’s Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, fully crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold. The Bernina Grey colour of the brass dial, achieved by galvanic treatment, is inspired by the gorgeous hues and natural splendours of the Alpine rocks, while its sunburst stamping reminds of the iris of the noble bird of prey. The chronometer-certified movement with flyback function boasts three separate patents.

Roger Dubuis premiered four watches at Watches and Wonders including the Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon, which comes in a blaze of powerful colours befitting its name. The brand’s signature flying tourbillons are contained within a 45 mm pink-gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback, while the pink gold bezel is set with 72 stones comprising red garnets, orange spessartites and yellow sapphires. A further nine glistening stones in hues inspired by the sunrise embellish the dial of this watch, which is limited to just eight pieces.

Panerai also unloaded numerous new timepieces during the goings-on at Geneva. The 44 mm Submersible Quaranta Quattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech, blessed with a blue sun-brushed or white matte-grained dial, is forged from the innovative Ti-Ceramitech material created at the watchmaker’s Neuchâtel lab. This titanium ceramisation process delivers a supremely tough and hardy timepiece that is nonetheless 44% lighter than steel.

Time & Tide: Models for aqua men and women to sail accurately into the sunset

Sailing is one of the most intense outdoor pursuits and watches designed to cope with the rigours of the highly competitive sport need, at the very least, to be hardwearing and waterproof. Better still, they should possess ultimate accuracy, countdown timers for the start of each race, and tools to indicate tide level. An essential compass, a barometer showing air-pressure variation and multiple time zones are also worthy attributes.

Rolex’s association with the world of sailing stretches back to the 1950s, and its Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master series is considered essential regatta gear by many. The timepieces have a range of features tailored to the demands of sporting life on the ocean wave. For instance, the bidirectional 60-minute graduated bezel, hewed from either gold or platinum or fitted with Cerachrom insert in matt black ceramic, is marked by polished graduations and numerals which are raised to enable the wearer to read time intervals, for instance between two buoys, accurately.

The sailing watches come with either a paramagnetic escape wheel (calibre 2236) or a Chronergy escapement (calibre 3235) movement. The latter has strong anti-magnetic properties and is known for its high energy efficiency. Crucially for sailing, its Parachrom hairspring made of a paramagnetic alloy not only strengthens resistance to shocks but also enhances stability under variable temperature conditions. This stability is ably supported by high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers.

The dials feature large hour markers and broad hands filled with luminescent material that boosts legibility under all sailing conditions by emitting a glow lasting longer than traditional phosphorescent materials. The scratchproof sapphire crystal features a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for the ultimate in visual enhancement. Bracelets are equipped with patented Oysterlock safety clasps to prevent accidental opening, which could be critical in a racing environment.

Omega’s 45.5 mm Seamaster Planet Ocean chronograph watch pays homage to the turquoise colours of Emirates Team New Zealand, which will compete at the America’s Cup in Barcelona in August. Contrasting the deep black that dresses the rest of this large model, the aqua hue appears on the indicator hand, subdial ring, minute track, number 12 and seconds, brushed black ceramic pushers, helium escape valve and Omega logo on the crown. A countdown indicator with a flagged start appears at 3 o’clock.

More than 200 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon to counteract the effects of gravity seen in standard vertically held timepieces of the era. The excellence of his chronometers at sea was lauded by the French navy. Joining Breguet’s seafaring line, the Marine Tourbillon 5577 pays tribute to the early invention of the manufacture with an ultra-thin tourbillon positioned at 5 o’clock and rotating in 60 seconds – the traditional concept that acts to cancel out gravitational errors. Water resistant to 100 metres and constructed of materials that provide resistance to corrosion and wear, plus gravitational fields, the self-winding movement with peripheral oscillating weight is visible through a sapphire caseback.

The spirit of exploration and designing watches that can withstand the most challenging and inhospitable of environments lies behind the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Collection. The latest addition to the line – Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen South Pole Exploration – features a sfumato iced-blue glacier-patterned dial created using a special layered technique called gratté boisé that involves more than 30 steps. Here it creates the impression of staring at the oxygen-free blue-toned Antarctic ice. In a reaction to this harsh environment for which the watch was designed, the titanium case is devoid of oxygen internally, preventing oxidisation and fogging. The components are thus rendered far more durable to foster long-lasting precision.

Another interesting attribute is a complication of turning Northern and Southern hemisphere globes at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock with a 24-hour scale and day and night indication, meaning it is possible to see the time anywhere across the globe quickly and easily.

Chopard’s Happy Ocean is a chic water-sports model with a steel and 18-carat rose gold case. Aided by a rose gold screw-down crown, it offers water resistance all the way down to 300 metres, where visibility is assisted by applied gilded hour-markers enhanced with Super-LumiNova. As expected of this watch line, its galvanic-treated wave-pattered blue dial features five dancing diamonds.

Ulysse Nardin has had a long association with marine chronometers and continues to craft timepieces suitable for the ardours of the ocean. Two recent additions, Diver Net Azure and Diver X Skeleton Azure, offer increased durability and increased usage of recycled materials to nurture the health of the ocean by reducing plastic waste. The former’s central case, bezel, caseback and movement mount are manufactured from 95% recycled steel, while its side case and caseback ring meld 60% Nylo recycled fishing nets and 40% Carbonium upcycled carbon fibre from the aeronautics industry.

New red gold or grade 23 titanium watches bring lustre to the Blancpain 42 mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique diving line. The red gold version has undoubted aesthetic appeal, while grade 23 titanium provides a sporty look; it is also lightweight yet robust with anti-scratch and anti-corrosion qualities.

Timepieces from Harry Winston’s Ocean Collection are specifically designed to facilitate adventurous activity. Some come with cases hewed from zalium, a zirconium-aluminium alloy developed by the house which is ultra-lightweight and possesses anti-corrosion and anti-scratch properties. The dials of the 36mm models feature ocean-sourced mother of pearl. Water resistant to 100 metres, their Swiss-made movements display functions to track the time with the utmost precision.

The IWC Schaffhausen Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month comes in two versions, boasting either red or blue luminescence on the dial and hands. Water resistant to 10 bars, they feature a Ceratanium case and caseback ring, black dial, black hands and black rubber strap with Ceratanium pin buckle. Based on a special titanium alloy, this material is forged to IWC’s specifications and offers enhanced hardness and scratch resistance, making it suitably desirable for rigorous outdoor activities on the water.

Green Hands: Applauding watches embodying the power of jade – and other viridescent beauties

Jade green watches have a treasured quality attached to their aesthetic beauty. The ornamental mineral has long been prized for its translucence and durability; in Chinese culture, jade is thought to convey nobility, longevity and protective power. Here we pay homage to outstanding watches inspired by jade or rendered in other stunning shades of green.

H. Moser & Cie certainly understands the value-enhancing elegance and subtlety of jade stone and its striking colour. The dial of the recently released Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade model is made of 100% natural Wyoming jade that is untreated from its original source and exudes a subtle purity. Its appeal is enhanced by the fact that the Swiss watchmaker chose a jade with a concentrated olive tone.

Furthermore, the simplicity of the uncluttered dial highlights the fantastic hue of the natural stone. Hour and minute hands come with luminescent inserts, and only three red gold-faceted indices dot the dial of a timepiece devoid of any logo. Its bare, green good looks also serve to magnify the technical excellence of the one- minute flying tourbillon with skeletonised bridges visible at six o’clock. This Streamliner Tourbillon is limited to just 100 pieces, with each translucent jade dial hewn from semi-precious natural stone and precision cut using CNC (computer numerical control) technology.

Giving each model subtle differences in shading and marking, the process also meticulously preserves the structure of the jade; each slab is pared down into slices 1 to 1.2 mm thick, then hand polished to project the splendid natural colour.

The watch is equipped with the manufacture’s HMC 804 automatic movement, which boasts an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, a three- day minimum power reserve and double hairsprings that alleviate the effect of gravity and reduce friction. Dressed in red gold, the 40mm-diameter case is topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal and the integrated bracelet has a three-blade folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo.

Cartier’s limited-edition Santos-Dumont XL model is embellished with jade Roman numerals. A beaded crown set with a jade cabochon adds to the allure of a watch backed by a calibre 430 MC mechanical movement.

It also features a rose gold case, guilloché-effect dial, and rose gold-finished steel apple-shaped hands. A green alligator-skin strap adorned with a traditional ardillon buckle of rose gold complements the jade green touches on the Roman numerals. For those measuring, XL here means 46.6 mm from lug to lug and 33.9 mm wide.

One version of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 by Rolex comes with a dazzling dial cut from green aventurine – a stone thought to promote a sense of well-being. A bezel studded with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds encircles the arresting dial, whose hour markers are also diamond-set.

The calibre 3255 movement facilitates the display of the day, date, hours, minutes and seconds concurrently. As is standard with all Day-Date models since their launch in 1956, this timepiece has a three-piece link design President bracelet crafted from a precious metal, in this case 18-carat Everose gold.

A 41-mm 18-carat pink gold bezel circling a black ceramic case is the perfect counterpoint for the deep- green enamelled aventurine dial of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon. This mesmerising effect is heightened by components that are hand-finished through satin brushing and polishing. Similarly, pink gold hour markers and hands beautifully complement the smoky green of the dial.

In the same vein, the dial’s compelling colour serves to highlight the flying tourbillon cage at six o’clock. Illusions of depth and light are created by a manufacturing process repeated multiple times, in which layers of glass sand are mixed with water, laid onto crushed aventurine glass, and then heated to more than 800oC in a dedicated oven. Resting above the dial, a glare-proof double-curved sapphire crystal accentuates this beautiful play of light.

Hublot produced only 100 Big Bang Unico Green Saxem watches, a robust 42 mm model that catches the eye. Case, caseback and bezel are all crafted from the brand’s fetching green Saxem alloy, a mix of sapphire aluminium oxide and rare-earth mineral.

The dial, made of black transparent composite material, is brightened by luminescence on its hands and indices in the same shade of green. The colour coding is amplified by a transparent green rubber strap, which comes with a titanium buckle clasp. Equipped with the in-house HUB 1280 movement, this self-winding flyback column-wheel chronograph has a power reserve of about 72 hours.

A beautiful dark-green dial is the distinguishing visual hallmark of the Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva, a bold 18-carat lime gold model limited to just 28 pieces and based on the historic calibre from 1923. In an intriguing technical innovation, the satinated and polished gold unidirectional fluted bezel activates the chronograph.

The dial sports beige luminescent green-coated hour and minute hands, a green-coated seconds hand, a gold-coated chronograph minute hand with a green tip, and a green chronograph seconds hand. The colour story is further augmented by an interchangeable green alligator- leather strap with a lime gold pin buckle.

Two of Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle hand-wound watches are an envious dark green, each showcasing a beautiful sunburst-decorated dial encased in 18-carat pink gold. The smaller version (33mm) is a sparkling standout, having a bezel populated by 54 brilliant round diamonds.

The caseback is transparent crystal, the dial has gold applied hour markers and hands, and the matching dark-green Mississippiensis alligator-leather strap with calfskin lining is fastened by a pink gold pin buckle.

In charming contrast to the white engraved dial, the distinctive green alligator leather of its bangle strap adds to the appeal of the ultra-feminine Joséphine Aigrette oval-faced timepiece from Chaumet. The Maison’s emblematic V-shaped aigrette is rendered in rose gold and brilliant-cut diamonds on this gem of a watch.

To celebrate the colour that symbolises prosperity, renewal and progress, the new dial of Vulcain’s Chronograph 1970s comes in a hue that evokes the iconic British racing green. The eye- catching design of the sunburst dial with its white or black indexes contrasts well with the leather or crocodile-pattern strap.

Out of Pocket: Contemporary watches on a chain – or car dashboard – to wear or display with pride

The history of modern watchmaking began with the classic pocket watch so beloved by people of a certain standing in society and releasing them from the constraints of the public clock tower. These timepieces undoubtedly held a particular charm and are now much sought after by collectors. Many top manufactures continue to roll out fine pocket watches for their growing legion of admirers.

Cartier, which first turned its hand to such watches in 1853, now produces the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton pocket watch. Set in a frame hewed from rock crystal with traces of black obsidian and white gold, it is powered by a 9506 automatic movement comprising 578 parts including 44 rubies in a skeletonised style that allows admirers to view its mechanical sophistication – minute repeater, flying tourbillon and perpetual calendar – and elegant aesthetics.

Coming in two versions, the white-gold model has a beaded crown set with a cabochon-cut sapphire, a colour picked up by blued-steel apple-shaped hands, while the other iteration dazzles with 263 baguette-cut diamonds on its case, 111 baguette- cut diamonds on its dial, and a diamond on the crown for a grand total of 27 carats.

Among IWC’s contemporary pocket watches is a precious homage to its original Pallweber pocket watch released in 1885. The limited-edition Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years” timepiece evokes the original pocket watch but comes with large digital hours and minutes displayed in windows.

The instrument, which is attached to an 18-carat red-gold chain, boasts a red-gold case and a white lacquered dial with black-printed white display discs and blued seconds hands. Its convex glass sapphire has an antireflective coating on both sides. Even when the pocket watch is closed, the time can be read thanks to two windows in the spring cover.

Blancpain’s standout pocket watch is the ultra-slim Montre De Poche Demi-Savonnette, a Métiers d’Art creation available in three variants. Classically elegant, its white grand-feu enamel dial is ensconced within a 9 mm-thick red-gold case that measures 44.5 mm in diameter. Resplendent through the sapphire caseback, the 151B manual movement – which is only 2.2 mm thick – has 40 hours of power reserve.

A one-of-a-kind piece of high jewellery and haute horlogerie, The Ultimate Quadri Tourbillon pocket watch by Harry Winston has four independent tourbillons on its dial that rotate counterclockwise in 36 seconds. It is adorned with an 18-carat white-gold chain and 254 baguette- cut diamonds on a matching case, while its calibre HW4703 movement is also blessed with 95 jewels.

In fact, the total gem-setting for this collector’s item amounts to 272 baguette-cut diamonds of about 27 carats as well as an emerald-cut diamond and a brilliant-cut ruby.

Among 12 pocket watches displayed last year as part of the Rare Handcrafts collection at Patek Philippe’s Geneva salon was the “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001, adorned with wood marquetry, hand engraving and champlevé enamel. The image of a leopard emerges from the darkness on its caseback – a wonderful artistic creation derived from different species of wood with varying colours, textures and veining.

The spectacle is complemented by a pattern of tropical foliage inset with black enamel hand-engraved on the border of the caseback, the bezel on the dial side and the bow. The black-tinted tulipwood dial stands in beautiful contrast to a crown embellished with a yellow sapphire.

In homage to its 1932 pocket chronograph, Omega produced three editions (100 pieces each) of the Olympic Pocket Watch 1932 Rattrapante Chronograph utilising unassembled chronograph movement kits that had been in storage for 80 years.

These timepieces come in 18-carat yellow, white and red gold to mimic the colours of the Games’ gold, silver and bronze medals. The original 1932 pocket chronograph was used as a stopwatch in the Los Angeles Olympics that year.

A particularly novel reinterpretation of yesteryear’s timepiece is the Hublot MP-03 Pocket Watch, which takes the traditional hanging pendant- type format but morphs the case into the shape of a bullet. Time is told by a horizontal tourbillon with three rotating wheels visible through the case aperture. The watch can be worn as a necklace or attached to a bag, belt and wrist strap.

Vacheron Constantin has created a bespoke timepiece at the behest of a client who adores fine watches and luxury cars. While boasting aesthetic similarities to a pocket watch, Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon fits into the fascia of a motorcar – the Rolls- Royce Amethyst Droptail to be exact.

Its mechanical self-winding movement has a bi-retrograde display with the instantaneous return of the hours and minutes, reminiscent of the sweep hands on traditional speedometers. These hands are made of titanium, while the case is stainless steel, the main plate brass rhodium opaline, and the dial sapphire crystal.

Panerai’s Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica 59mm was released in a special limited edition of 50 pieces and retains the brand’s water- resistance tradition, plunging securely to a depth of 30 metres. Its chain, likewise, has a nautical appearance. A sapphire case reveals the skeletonised P.2005/S calibre with a six-day power reserve, a version of Panerai’s first in-house tourbillon movement launched in 2007. Interestingly, 12 rods link the case to the movement, giving the impression the latter is suspended in the centre of the device.

Special supports can transform the pocket watch into a table clock once the attached chain is removed – which is detached with ease simply by pressing a small button. The single links of the chain itself are linked by universal joints which guarantee greater resistance and at the same time provide maximum flexibility. The chain is attached to the case by a skeleton device shaped like the characteristic bridge that protects the winding crown of other Panerai timepieces.

Dragon Layers: The fantastic beasts of the Chinese zodiac breathe new life into watch design

February 2024 heralds the Year of the Dragon, the magical animal with a massive presence in Chinese mythology and culture that projects power and commands reverence. Many fine watchmakers have released timepieces paying homage to the Dragon, a popular symbol of nobility, prosperity and wisdom, as well as good luck.

Arnold & Son, a manufacture with roots dating back to 1764, marks this auspicious new phase of the traditional Chinese calendar with the limited-edition Luna Magna Red Gold ‘Year of the Dragon’, which comes in two versions. A quite spectacular feature is the intricately hand-engraved dragon in 18-carat red gold which adorns either a large pietersite (blue with veining) or onyx (smooth and black) dial. All the elements of the dragon as it wraps around the dial – scales, claws, whiskers and horns – point to the three- dimensional globe showing the phases of the moon that distinguishes the Luna Magna collection. The white opal hour dial is enhanced with additional Super- LumiNova, while an indicator of the moon’s age is displayed on the case back.

Another high-end watchmaker celebrating the Year of the Dragon is Corum, which releases two versions of the Bubble 47mm model. One depicts a dragon hovering above the dial between clouds, while the other looks deep into the dragon’s eye – with the 8mm-thick sapphire dial acting as a magnifying glass for both versions to surreal effect. The eerie appeal of the fantastical dragon eye on the Bubble 47 Dragon Eye is amplified by meticulous hand-crafting of the exquisite details. Both models are limited to 88 editions, have stainless-steel cases with black PVD treatments, and are equipped with the CO 082 automatic movement that possesses a power reserve of 42 hours.

Harry Winston presents a glittering take on the divine symbol of power that is the dragon. The slim 18-carat-gold case of the Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm sees 118 brilliant-cut diamonds set in two rings framing a dial embossed with an imposing figure of an imperial red dragon – considered a colour of luck, joy and passion. The stones then slope via two rose-gold bands towards a gold crown positioned unconventionally at noon and distinguished by a white pearl. The dial itself is blessed with 39 brilliant-cut diamonds, where they form an inner circle beside the red lacquer dragon, which swirls within clouds of white mother-of-pearl. A pearl in the mouth of the dragon symbolises wisdom or, perhaps in this case, the perpetual cycle of life. A further 17 diamonds dress the rose gold buckle that fastens the red alligator leather strap.

A different shade of red is used to enhance the Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon by IWC Schaffhausen, issued in a limited production of 1,000 pieces. Burgundy decorates a dial set with gold-plated hands and appliques, and colours one of two strap alternatives – burgundy rubber or black calfskin – that offer different looks for the wearer. The mythical beast in question appears at the back of this stainless- steel watch. The IWC-manufactured calibre 69355 movement can be observed through the sapphire caseback and its gold-plated rotor amazingly takes the visual form of an intricate dragon.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ uses the back of the signature swivelling case of the Reverso range – first launched in 1931 – for the depiction of a dragon in the midst of clouds tinged with a golden hue. Some 80 hours of painstaking work by a master engraver with 10 types of chisels went into creating the beautiful creature. Set against a background of glossy black grand feu enamel, the pink gold dragon appears to take on a 3-D effect, seemingly ready to leap off the caseback. Opaque black grand feu enamel graces the dial on the front of this elegant reversible timepiece, meaning the two surfaces appear in harmony.

Vacheron Constantin has been paying homage to the Chinese annual animals since 2012, and as the 12-year cycle comes full circle with the Year of the Dragon, the maison has brought out two 25-piece Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Dragon limited editions. Powered by the calibre 2460 G4 offering about 40 hours of power reserve, the watch is crafted from either platinum or 18-carat pink gold and has a transparent sapphire crystal caseback. With enamelling and engraving skills to the fore, the dial features a hand-engraved pink-gold dragon that demonstrates the meticulous precision of the artisan, such as the fine detail of its scales and a hand-engraved pearl. Each measures 40mm in diameter and comes with a deep blue (platinum version) or brown (pink gold) grand feu enamel dial and alligator leather strap.

The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon by Roger Dubuis ushers in the Lunar New Year with what appears to be a 3-D dragon. The visual interpretation is certainly in the eyes of the wearer, given the abstract design and freedom of expression bestowed by a creature crafted from 27 separate pieces of brass. The dragon boldly stands out via pink-gold polished surfaces surrounded by black lacquer. Enriching the surrealism and powerful symbolism of this watch is the image of another dragon that appears to flow within the sapphire crystal of the caseback. Here, the lower flying tourbillon of the Monotourbillon Calibre RD512SQ skeletonised movement uses materials far lighter than stainless steel, and its mechanical excellence only enhances its aesthetic appeal.

Chopard marks the arrival of the auspicious animal with the release of the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon, featuring a dial hand-crafted in Japan by an artisan skilled in the urushi lacquer technique. Each dial took at least 20 hours to refine using this painstaking ancestral process. Encased in a combination of 18-carat rose gold and glare-proof sapphire crystal, a spectacular red- and yellow-coloured dragon appears to float high in the clouds, elevating the timepiece to majestic heights.

The mythical hand-sculptured 5N rose gold dragon coils its way around Ulysse Nardin‘s skeletonised X structure of their Blast Tourbillon Dragon.