Light Fantastic: Dials can defy the dark with a touch of super-luminescent razzle-dazzle

Watches that glow in the dark offer the wearer reassurance they will be able to read the time even under most trying of circumstances. Many of the prestigious brands paint the hands and dial of their timepieces with a special pigment that gleams by absorbing and then reemitting light. Unfortunately, the first so-called lume watches derived their luminescence from radium, a radioactive material, and were discontinued, but the luminous phosphorescent glowing solution now used to coat key parts of the watch face is considered completely safe.

Rolex has long enjoyed a reputation for producing watches with that extra special glow. Indeed, some of their early pocket watches made for the military were painted with luminous material. Today’s collections use Super-LumiNova, which first came to light in 1933, or the brand’s proprietary Chromalight technology, which debuted in 2008, for luminescence.

The Chromalight display of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40, for instance, is designed to offer excellent legibility in all circumstances. The blue glow emitted in dark conditions lasts for about eight hours, while in daylight a distinctive bright white hue emanates from the watch. The new Explorer, a collection made famous by Himalayan expeditions, is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel.

Luminescence is a critical attribute for divers’ watches in murky underwater conditions. The Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge sports an array of features to combat such an environment, including patented case architecture with a sealed Triplock crown set to withstand extreme pressure and Chromalight display with superb luminescence to enhance underwater legibility.

The need for outstanding visibility has also played an important role in the design of Bell & Ross watches. The Lum collection, launched in 2017, is inspired by aeronautical instrumentation where readability and luminosity are key. Dials, numerals, indices and hands are highly legible day and night due to their Super-LumiNova coating.

In recent years, models have emitted a range of colours, from the intense green glow of the BR 03-92 Grey Lum to others exhibiting a pale yellow luminescence. The most recent iteration, the BR-X5 Green Lum, is crafted from titanium and an innovative photo-luminescent composite material, LM3D. So, unlike in previous iterations, it is the 41mm case that glows fully in the dark, serving to magnify the dial – replete with luminous hour and minute markers, hands, date and power-reserve indicators – and give the watch a surreal look.

Launched in 2010, the youthful, avant-garde brand of Ressence takes a minimalistic approach to watch design. Its latest release, the Type 1° M, features engraved indications filled with grade A Super-LumiNova on a convex German silver dial. The glow effect is enhanced by a greater range of colour codes than previously seen (M stands for Multicolour), with green, blue, yellow and red appearing on the hour, minute, second and weekday discs respectively in a beautiful contrast with the light grey dial. Its unique Ressence Orbital Convex System module is driven by the minute axle of a customised 2892 base calibre. Notably, there is no crown – time-setting and winding are accomplished via a retractable lever on the caseback.

Breitling has recently updated its Avenger range, and the new B01 Chronograph 44 Night Mission, powered by the Breitling calibre 01, has Super-LumiNova-coated indices, numerals and hands on a carbon fibre dial of all-black, or yellow with chronograph counters in black. The numerals are particularly legible. A ceramic bezel and case, with a titanium caseback, crown and pushers, round off a super-strong design.

Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ Edition pays tribute to the America’s Cup and defending champions Emirates Team New Zealand. The visually striking timepiece combines the turquoise hue of the team logo with the deepest black, while the distinctive green glow emitted in the dark by the white Super-LumiNova adds to the feast of colours. Its power comes from Omega’s Master Chronometer Calibre 9900.

The Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep in Summer Blue, meanwhile, joins a line in homage to a world-record dive of 2019. When UV light is directed at the lacquered dial, the words “Omega was here” are revealed.

One of the hallmarks of a Roger Dubuis timepiece is its superb luminescence, exemplified by the kaleidoscope of colours emanating from the synthetically grown spinels – graded from red to blue, and coated with Super-LumiNova – on the dial of the eye-catching Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier. This dazzling combination of colour and light bounces off the 42mm Eon gold case and bezel set with curved synthetic sapphires.

Capturing the free-spirited movement of the sea and the creatures who dwell within it, Seiko has added a “Whale” model to its Prospex Thong Sia Exclusive Limited Edition collection. The automatic diver’s watch features a bright white dial and bracelet and contrasting black hands and case. The bezel, hands and indices are coated with LumiBrite for practical and aesthetic reasons.

A skeletonised chronograph has joined the TAG Heuer Monaco range. It comes in a choice of three different colours powered by the Heuer 02 movement with an 80-hour power reserve. The distinctive skeleton dial, a first for the line, is housed in a tough grade 2 titanium case. In another innovation for the model, the date window (along with the indices and hands of the watch) are embossed with Super- LumiNova, ensuring brilliant legibility even in low light.

Chopard’s new ‘Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ features oversized 6 and 12 o’clock Arabic numerals which are enhanced with black SuperLuminova© – thereby meeting motorsports’ inherent legibility requirements.

Diamond Precision: Time is more precious when prestigious watchmakers turn to stones

For extra-special elegance and sparkle, watches embellished with diamonds raise their appeal that notch higher. Their allure is such that these fine mechanical works of art represent some of the most desired – and visually stimulating – timepieces available to collectors.

The heart of watchmaking, Switzerland, is replete with Haute Horlogerie manufacturers including Audemars Piguet, which recently unveiled two limited-edition 39 Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin models entirely set with gems. The 18-carat white-gold version has an 8.1-mm-thick case set with 138 brilliant-cut diamonds – about 2.6 carats – and glare-proofed sapphire crystal front and back. Adding to its lustre, the bracelet features 968 brilliant-cut diamonds and the dial is set with 422 brilliant-cut diamonds (for a grand total of 1,528 brilliant-cut diamonds and 8.3 carats) along with white-gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.

The 18-carat yellow-gold model is similarly carpeted with gems across the case, bezel, dial and bracelet – though these are yellow sapphires forming 10.41 carats.

Cartier delighted with a number of exquisite high- jewellery watches at Watches and Wonders 2023. The iconic Cartier Jewelled Tank watch remains true to its design code with its distinctive rectangular dial and parallel brancards. Whilst retaining that undeniable Tank identity, the bejewelled models are elevated by a flexible bracelet of mobile cylinders in onyx, chrysoprase or coral with articulated links to offer greater comfort, and a face flanked on all sides by diamonds of varying sizes. These new Tank watches pay homage to the colour palette of Jeanne Toussant with their coloured stones – coral, chrysoprase, amethysts and diamonds – and interplay of colour contrasts. The amethysts, coral, and chrysoprases, rose-gold dial of the Jewelled Tank watch, large model, quartz movement is set with 272 brilliant-cut diamonds and features polished rose steel sword-shaped hands.

For the new Baignoire Allongée, Cartier has built on the original design by creating a case composed of two parts combined by means of a micro-welding tool to incorporate two colour codes – yellow gold and white gold. It features a diamond-lit case that contrasts with a dial divided into different sections of varying sizes; the white and yellow gold areas are distinguished by a hand-carved sunray motif. The case is set with 212 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.81 carats.

The Baignoire continues to evolve and new Jewelled Baignoire editions showcase lines of diamonds that ring a snow-set dial and then extend the length of the bracelet to enhance the timepiece’s slim curves.

Presenting a discreet diamond face, Patek Philippe’s Ref: 4997/200R Calatrava in rose gold sets 76 internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds around the bezel. An ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 240 movement with a 22-carat gold mini-rotor powers the timepiece, which is housed in a 35 mm- diameter rose-gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback. Of note is its colour scheme: an eye- catching purple lacquered dial with an embossed pattern and rose-gold dauphine hands harmonises perfectly with a purple calfskin strap with a satinated finish and rose-gold prong buckle.

Richard Mille’s iconic RM 07-01 collection of automatic watches aimed at women is joined by new Intergalactic models combining the brand’s signature Carbon TPT with diamonds. The possibly unique combination of Carbon TPT – ultra-lightweight but strong with a warm velvety texture – and diamonds undoubtedly gives these models extra sparkle and highlights the fine attributes of each. Such is the strength of this high-performance material that settings for the stones as well as some snazzy red- gold prongs are machined with a diamond-bit milling tool. Diamonds are particularly prominent on the RM 07-01 Starry Night, worn with a Carbon TPT bracelet, and Bright Night models.

The new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 by Rolex welcomes dials made of decorative stone in shimmering tones that evoke the Mediterranean coast. Green aventurine, carnelian and turquoise are paired with watches in 18-carat Everose, yellow and white gold respectively. Each of these three models features a diamond-set dial, diamond-set bezel and President bracelet with a concealed folding clasp. This bracelet, composed of carefully selected 18-carat gold, is a brand signature dating back to the launch of the line in 1956. A total of 52 brilliant- cut diamonds are affixed to the bezel in a precisely aligned, hand-carved setting.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Self-Winding Jewellery novelty glitters with diamonds, boasting a total encrustation of 769 round-cut stones, of which 420 embellish the dial. This sleek 18-carat white-gold watch comes with a sapphire crystal caseback and a shiny dark-blue alligator leather strap.

Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection 2023 embraces a plethora of watches exotically and colourfully adorned with diamonds. These Haute Joaillerie masterpieces include Ref. 104429-1001, which shimmers with pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, and the dazzling Ref. 104672-1001 with 28.3 carats of white diamonds and 21.65 carats of emeralds. Ref. 134154-5001’s pretty satin strap is distinguished by a diamond-set buckle.

Chaumet has numerous models adorned with diamonds including the Souveraine and Maharani secret watches worn with black alligator-leather straps. The former dazzles with an 18-carat white gold case and hinges set with 111 brilliant-cut diamonds, and a secret cover resplendent in 155 brilliant-cut, pear-shaped and rose-cut diamonds.

Marble Marquetry by Harry Winston, on the other hand, is a spectacular bracelet watch showcasing 56 blue sapphires set among a blaze of white light comprising a grand total of 208 brilliant- cut, baguette-cut and pear-cut diamonds.

Swiss Precision: Geneva Watch Days allows Switzerland’s smaller names their day in the sun

Geneva Watch Days draws a plethora of independent manufactures to the city’s waterfront, where they shine alongside the bigger boys. The summer event acts as a platform for Swiss watchmaking and has been growing in stature since it was inaugurated in 2020 by eight prestigious brands. The number of participants has since mushroomed, and this year some 40 fine watchmakers took the opportunity to release new models or showcase their most eye-catching designs.

Take Breitling, which launched the new Navitimer 36 and 32 – two slender iterations, 36 mm and 32 mm respectively, to round out the Navitimer collection, and ideal for those who prefer a less weighty time machine on their wrists. Powered by the robust Breitling Calibre 17, the luxury models have mother-of-pearl dials studded with lab-grown diamonds and 18-carat red gold cases with cambered sapphire glass that is glare- proof on both sides. They can be worn with a seven- row traceable gold bracelet or an alligator leather strap. The 32mm version embraces the line’s first- ever powdery pink and light blue faces alongside the classic white. Using sustainable gold and diamonds vouches for the watchmaker’s integrity as well as its aesthetic credentials.

Bulgari’s watch collections combine Italian aesthetics with Swiss craftsmanship, as epitomised by novelties like the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Automatic and Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar which were presented at the Geneva event. Their combination of anthracite high-tech carbon and pink gold makes them true standouts. At just 2.23 mm thick, the Automatic version sports the BVL 138 ultra-thin mechanical calibre movement, featuring a platinum miniature automatic disc with small seconds, a power reserve of 60 hours and waterproofing to a depth of 100 metres. Its forged carbon dial comes with gold-plated hands and hour makers. The more complex BVL 305 self-winding mechanical calibre of the Perpetual Calendar, meanwhile, is only slightly thicker at 2.75 mm and it likewise proudly shows a textured, anthracite carbon face with luxurious accents in rose gold.

Through its ultra-thin Octo Finissimo collection, Bulgari aims to create unique timepieces by employing techniques such as contrasting polishing or monochrome treatment on a variety of materials like stainless steel, gold and ceramics. Models are consistently striking with round bezels against octagonal surfaces.

Interestingly, and highlighting the significance attached to Geneva Watch Days, year-old brand Byrne released the Gyro Dial Zero in pink gold and its limited-edition set with diamonds. This updated version follows the original rotating-indices watch concept released at the same event last year, in which the dial changes every day on either the stroke of midnight or noon according to the whim of its wearer. This unique attribute occurs as the dial’s four cardinal indexes (at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock) pivot in a flash to reveal a different face. The rose gold-encased Zero offers a new stylish, pared-down beauty exposing the magnificent mechanism within.

By contrast, Girard-Perregaux, founded in 1791, is one of the oldest fine-watch manufactures still in operation and maintaining all the required horological skills in-house, it has more than 100 recorded patents. It displayed the Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech, the latest model in an ultra-modern collection that uses the best solutions in materials technology. Formed of a carbon/titanium composite in octagonal parts via the 8Tech method, the case creates a random structural pattern. Indeed, the whole watch is made from a combination of differently shaped components and materials playfully juxtaposed together, with its splendid swirl decoration adding further interest. The GP03300-1058 automatic movement can be spied through a smoked sapphire-crystal caseback.

Russian watchmaker and inventor Konstantin Chaykin, known for his unique timepieces and artistic creations, auctioned a selection of his amazing monster-face watches and their accompanying sketches at the event. These included the Smilodon, which takes its inspiration from the prehistoric sabre-toothed tiger and boasts some unique functions; the limited-edition Joker Five, which features a distinctive day of the week indicator; and the prototype of his latest Wristmon, a jovial and optimistic-looking character.

Ulysse Nardin brought out the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, a watch which showcases the aesthetic qualities of silicon aside from its undoubted technical specifications. Ergonomically strong with pronounced geometric lines, the 45mm timepiece has an escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicon and uses blades technology. Its ultra-glass box design reveals the avant-garde movement, with a flying tourbillon commanding attention at 6 o’clock. The white-gold case is satin- finished and polished and opened at back with sapphire glass. To top off the unconventional look of the piece, it comes with a distinctive blue matte and polished silicon marquetry dial. The backplate is matte silicon, too.

Another Geneva Watch Days highlight was the launch of two models by luxury watchmaker H. Moser & Cie: the minimalist Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack and the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack. Composed of super-dark carbon nanostructures, which absorb 99.965% of light that hit them, the Vantablack dials can claim to have the effect of a black hole, sucking in all light in mesmerising contrast with their red-gold cases.

Also Read: Retro Revolution: Old and new harmonise in contemporary re-editions with a vintage vibe

Retro Revolution: Old and new harmonise in contemporary re-editions with a vintage vibe

For many avid collectors, there is a timeless charm about watches with the look and feel of classics. Couple that with a desire for the increased sophistication of modern technology and you have the underlying demand worldwide for vintage-inspired timepieces.

Some watchmakers tap into this combined love for the old and the new by reissuing cherished models with technical tweaks that add finesse and superior performance. Take Vacheron Constantin’s reissue of the famous 222, which itself was launched in 1977 to celebrate the 222nd anniversary of the manufacture. This contemporary reinterpretation nevertheless maintains the cultural heritage of the original model which heralded entry into the ‘sporty- chic’ watch category.

The Historiques 222 ‘Jumbo’ re-edition keeps the 1977’s monobloc tonneau-shaped countenance and 37mm diameter but comes with minor changes. Certain modifications have better readability and increased comfort in mind, such as offsetting the date window from the outer rim of the dial, or the Super-LumiNova coating of the hands and hour-markers, while the 18-carat yellow gold vertical satin-finished bracelet promises enhanced ergonomics. With a caseback designed to reveal its operation, Vacheron Constantin’s own Calibre 2455/2 movement was specially developed for this Historiques revival and delivers superior precision; the calibre’s oscillating weight has been etched with the original 222 logo.

Cartier’s famous Tank was launched over a century ago and the Maison has various collections that pay homage to a watch that dispensed with the traditional round-shaped dial. In 1921, the Tank Cintrée stunned the watch-buying public with slender, slightly curved rectangular lines that hug the wrist. Cartier has released several so-called Rééditions of past watches that mimic the original format as much as possible.

A centenary edition of the Tank Cintrée in yellow gold was released in 2021, and now Cartier is returning with another re-edition of the elegant original in platinum. Refinements are numerous; amongst others, a 6.03mm-thick case and brancards with finishes that are polished on the verticals and matte on the horizontals. The watch retains its faith in the Cartier heritage, sporting a movement with manual winding, rail tracks, Roman numerals, an eggshell dial and apple-shaped blued hands.

Breitling is another watchmaker that has released vintage-inspired models that hark back to earlier timepieces. This year sees new iterations of the 1953 Ref. 765 AVI, an aviator’s watch that famously came with a rotating 12-hour bezel for recording flight times. The original AVI incited a 46mm timepiece – the Super AVI – released in 2021, and now the beloved predecessor spawns another complicated imitation, the Classic AVI Chronograph 42.

Breitling Classic AVI Chronograph 42 P-51 Mustang

The new watches retain the distinctive colour schemes and design codes of the original that nod to classic aircraft in aviation history. The Classic AVI Chronograph 42 P-51 Mustang in 18-carat red gold is the standout.

The mysteries behind the wandering hours mechanism inspired Audemars Piguet to introduce the Starwheel watch in 1991. With interesting historical roots, the unusual timekeeping system stems from a request in the 17th century from the insomnia-suffering Pope Alexander VII for a silent, easy-to-read night clock. The solution presented to the pontiff involved a device lit from the inside where the quarter-hour marks appeared in a semi-circle in an aperture. Progressively, the silent wandering hours system developed in pocket watches with the minutes being graduated for greater precision. The mechanism remained hidden and its popularity waned. Upon being rediscovered by Audemars Piguet in 1989, intense development saw the wandering hours complication return from 1991 to 2003 in a watch that revealed its magnificent mechanism on the dial – named the ‘star wheels’.

A revived Starwheel reference in splendid black ceramic and 18-carat white gold joined the bold Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection late last year, utilising the next-generation self-winding Calibre 4310. An ultra-contemporary tribute to traditional watchmaking, and equipped just with a seconds hand, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel indicates the time using three discs that point to a 120-degree scale graduated with 60 minutes.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5261R- 001 Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar

The recent release of the Ref. 5261R-001 Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar by Patek Philippe adds another dimension to the Aquanaut Luce collection and hints at the past by featuring the manufacture’s patented Annual Calendar mechanism from 1996. Rooting back to the 1990s Aquanaut, this most recent addition to a line styled for women’s wrists is powered by the self-winding Calibre 26-330 S QA LU. The inversion of the annual calendar creates an unusual display: date at 6 o’clock, moon phases at 12 o’clock, both in apertures, while day is displayed at 3 o’clock and month at 9 o’clock in subdials. Among other Patek Philippe watches rocking a retro vibe, the Ref. 5172G Chronograph Salmon Dial oozes vintage charm with its opaline rose-gilded dial and gold hours/minutes hands.

Taking inspiration from one of the first Rolex watches to be fitted with the Perpetual rotor, the newly released Perpetual 1908 is another timepiece paying homage to traditional watchmaking. Its 9.5mm-thick case, crafted from 18-carat yellow gold, houses a Calibre 7140 mechanical movement offering bidirectional self-winding via a perpetual rotor.

The release of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Stainless Steel brings with it a connection the watchmaker’s past and its moon- landing legacy. The recreation of the Calibre 321 movement has the specifications of the original.

Track Stars: Winning watches inspired by supercars past and present

The unrivalled technical and sporting centenary by presenting a special version of its excellence embodied in racing cars is a perfect bedfellow for luxury watches that seek the ultimate in performance standards. These are watches taking their inspiration from the high-octane world of motorsport and high-performance cars.

An extraordinary example is the RM UP- 01 Ferrari spawned by the now two-year-old partnership between Richard Mille and Italian carmaker Ferrari. Thousands of laboratory hours were spent refining a dashboard-like timepiece with total shock resistance and a super-slim 1.75-millimetre sleekness that remains true to the spirit of the marque. Remarkably, this perfectly flat watch retains complete internal movement within the case and boasts a baseplate and skeletonised bridges crafted of grade 5 titanium, a material specifically chosen for its lightness and toughness.

In homage to the 24 Hours of Le Mans race, which celebrated its 100th anniversary this year, Richard Mille has also released a limited-edition RM 72-01 Le Mans Classic. Crafted as per usual in the event’s colours, the 150 watches are flyback chronographs with a patented double oscillating pinion clutch mechanism to maximise performance.

Rolex marked the 24 Hours of Le Mans legendary chronograph adored by the late actor and racing driver Paul Newman. The new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona’s calibre 4132 movement allows for a 24-hour chronograph function (as opposed to the usual 12-hour count) in tribute to the race itself. In addition, the number ‘100’ in red ceramic stands out on the tachymetric scale of this 18-carat gold watch with a brilliant black dial.

Such is the affection and status of the Daytona watch that Rolex has updated the entire range on the occasion of its 60th birthday. All iterations utilise a new chronograph movement via the calibre 4131, with innovations including the patented Chronergy escapement which is resistant to strong magnetic fields, a cut-out oscillating weight and new finishes, especially on the bridges. The new- generation Cosmograph Daytona spans a range of materials from 950 platinum and Oystersteel to 18-carat Everose gold.

Roger Dubuis’ inspiration is the supercar designs of the Lamborghini Squadra Corse, and hot off the blocks, the watchmaker has just released a striking blue Excalibur Spider Huracán Sterrato following last year’s pulsating orange version. The new variation is housed in a 45mm carbon case engineered from a compound nine times lighter than gold – Sheet Molding Compound (SMC) Carbon – then topped by black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) titanium.

A rubber and camouflage pattern strap blends hues of blue and uses a Combined Vulcanisation process for a seamless look. The watch also has 60 hours of power reserve and is water resistant to 50 metres. Meanwhile, a new Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph made its debut at the Goodwood Festival of Speed in July.

A month previously, just prior to the start of the annual 1000 Miglia race from Brescia and Rome and back in Italy, four new models of the ongoing Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph collection were unveiled by race sponsor and timekeeper Chopard. Made from Lucent Steel (eco-friendly recycled material more resilient than regular steel), the precision-engineered quartet comes in colours that nod to the paint jobs and interior finishes of the pre-1957 1000 Miglia racers – cherry red, grey blue, light green and racing black. A limited-edition version of the Mille Miglia GTS Chrono has also been released, featuring a large-diameter crown and ‘mushroom’ pushers to aid usage whilst driving.

TAG Heuer has also established a reputation for fine racing watches. With 2023 marking the 60th anniversary of the famous TAG Heuer Carrera, two new models hit the ground running: a Chronograph and Chronograph Tourbillon. The latter is its first ‘Glassbox’ model – domed glass encasing the dial and tachymeter bezel – featuring a tourbillon cage. Technical developments mean the tachymeter scale can now be read from a wider range of angles, whilst improved ergonomics of the stainless-steel case promise increased comfort.

The two new models come with a black or blue circular brushed dial respectively, and incorporate an evolved version of its automatic chronograph calibre, the Heuer 02, that offers bi- directional winding. The Monaco Chronograph and Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue are also TAG Heuer racing models of note.

Clocking into the 70th anniversary of the 1953 Le Mans race, Bremont has introduced a new Jaguar-inspired watch, the C-type, in homage to the car that won it. A stainless-steel case back features a decorative coin depicting a C-type hood badge and five stainless-steel screws with polished heads. It is water-resistant to 200 metres and boasts domed anti-reflective and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Other racy models in the Bremont showroom include the Jaguar MKI, the Williams Racing WR-22 and the WR-45.

Omega’s watches have long adorned the adrenaline-fuelled racetracks of the world and its famous Omega Speedmaster was considered of such a high technical standard that it was worn by Buzz Aldrin on his moon mission. Upgraded and slimmed- down versions of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 were introduced last year, powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9906.

These eight models can claim the iconic Omega column-wheel chronograph mechanism, a rhodium-plated bridge, as well as magnetic resistance to 15,000 gauss.

Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and Salon de TE commence

Certain to attract watch enthusiasts and industry players from around the world, the 42nd HKTDC Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and 11th Salon de TE commence in early September at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). Organisers are bringing new elements and themes to this year’s gathering.

The parallel events are jointly organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd. and The Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades and Industries Ltd. More than 700 global exhibitors from 17 countries and regions are anticipated.

Under the EXHIBITION+ hybrid mode, the physical fair will run from 5 to 9 September at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). Salon de TE will open its doors to both industry buyers and the public on the final two days (8 and 9 September). From 29 August to 16 September, exhibitors and buyers from across the world can engage in online and offline meetings through the AI-powered Click2Match smart business-matching platform.

Globally significant fair

According to Sophia Chong, HKTDC Deputy Executive Director, the globally renowned Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair has consistently served as an effective platform for the industry to secure orders and establish business connections. This is especially the case given the fact that Hong Kong remains the world’s largest wristwatch import market and the second-largest wristwatch export market, following Switzerland, she highlighted.

Chong also pointed out that the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair exhibits are more diversified this year to serve changing industry needs. “This year also welcomes a first-time exhibitor from Greece and Dubai, and will feature Guangdong, Guangzhou and Taiwan pavilions, hoping to create business opportunities for the industry,” she said.

The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair includes several key zones. The Pageant of Eternity zone showcases OEM and ODM high-end complete watches. Other product zones cover clocks, machinery and equipment, parts and components, packaging, and trade services.

Five themes at Salon de TE

Salon de TE, dedicated to showcasing internationally renowned watch brands, will feature five thematic zones: World Brand Piazza, Chic & Trendy, Craft Treasure, Renaissance Moment, and Wearable Tech. These zones will present more than 130 prominent watch brands and designer collections from France, Switzerland, Italy, the United States and more.

The debut Guo Chao theme welcomes several remarkable mainland independent watchmakers and watch designs. They will showcase timepieces that intricately blend Chinese cultural elements. Ma XuShu, an independent watchmaker from Mainland China, will present his masterpiece Starry Night wristwatch. Another watchmaker Wei Guang Wen will showcase Guangzhou clocks, a timepiece of historical, cultural and artistic value.

Swiss Independent Watchmaking Pavilion (SIWP) and Francéclat are returning this year, together with a debut by the International Luxury Group, presenting a range of Swiss and international watch brands.

Sponsored by Prince Jewellery & Watch for the 13th consecutive year, the World Brand Piazza zone remains a fair highlight. This year it will feature a lineup of 10 international watch brands and will showcase an exclusive selection of luxurious and rare timepieces.

The Wearable tech zone this year has tripled its exhibiting area compared to 2019, displaying a series of smartwatches and the latest technology brands, including Microwear, DTNO.1, DO and MYZI etc.

Other international timepiece brands will present wristwatches of different styles and personalities. This includes a limited-edition Mermaid Tourbillon by Hong Kong brand Memorigin, with just 100 pieces worldwide. First-time exhibitor King-Wear from Mainland China will feature one-touch Bluetooth pairing for calls, built-in music and video playback, body identification sensors and more than 100 sports modes. Young watchmaker Ricky (see below), cultivated by Hong Kong brand ANPASSA, has made his own tourbillon, a creative work described as a 15-year-old dream.

Networking opportunities

In addition to EXHIBITION+, the fair will also launch the Scan2Match function, which brings communication from offline to online. Buyers can use the HKTDC Marketplace app to scan exhibitors’ QR codes during the exhibition period, bookmark their favourite exhibitors, browse product information and the e-Floor plan, and continue to chat with exhibitors online during or after the exhibition period, extending their sourcing journey.

Seminars

Forums, seminars, watch parades and networking events will provide first-hand market information. At the Hong Kong International Watch Forum on 5 September will discuss the global trade situation and industry trends.

Global market research agency Euromonitor International will discuss sustainable watch design development around this year’s theme “Shaping the Future Watch: The Next Design Trends” at the Asian Watch Conference on 6 September.

On the same day, Noel Wong, a watch collector, and William Bai, a watch culture expert and founder of Watch Traveler, will discuss affordable luxury watch prospects, a hot topic among celebrities.

To cultivate a new generation of watch designers and technical talents and promote the innovation and development of watch design, the HKTDC, Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd and Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd have jointly organised the 40th Hong Kong Watch & Clock Design Competition.

The competition has two categories – The Beauty of Perspective for the Open Group and Game Code for the Student Group. Artist Jessica Hsuan was invited as a guest judge this year. Award-winning works and finalists will be exhibited during the Watch & Clock Fair, and the award ceremony will be held on 9 September at the Infinite Galaxy in Hall 3FG of the fairground.

Events, lucky draws, shopping discounts

Activities at Salon de TE (open to the public aged 12 and above) will include watch parades, watch and painting demonstrations, embroidery watch crafts, product launches and more. Visitors can participate in lucky draws, with prizes including luxury watches, fashion accessories, dining vouchers and more. They can also join Smart Bidding to bid on their desired watches starting at as much as 90% off the retail price. Some exhibits will be available for on-the-spot sale.

In addition, Asia’s premier fashion event CENTRESTAGE will be held from 6 to 9 September at the HKCEC, assembling designer brands from around the world to create synergies. Visitors can view the latest products of more than 350 watch and fashion brands at the same time.

Click here for more details.

Wrist Pilot: High-fliers can reach for the skies with the latest heritage-inspired aviator watches

The concept of the aviation watches has a long and rich history, stretching back to the onset of the wristwatch just after the turn of the last century. A reliable pilot’s watch was considered a vital and necessary part of the navigational armoury for aviators in the early days of flight.

Louis Cartier is said to have created the first pilot’s watch – Santos de Cartier – in 1904 and in so doing gave famous aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont something he had longed for: the ability to tell the time whilst flying. Crucially, this allowed him to carry on manning the controls of his plane without having to look at his pocket watch – a revolutionary concept which meant that the rollout of the aviation watch and the wristwatch could be said to have gone hand in hand.

The modern Cartier Santos-Dumont timepiece continues to imitate its heritage and engineering detail. The latest iteration features a skeleton movement which includes a miniaturised functional oscillating weight in the shape of an aircraft that soars over the globe. The wingspan reminds of a Demoiselle, the plane designed by Santos-Dumont himself. Also evoking the elegant early 1904 model are a gold or steel case, visible screws, a beaded crown and a blue cabochon. The Santos-Dumont Skeleton comes in three metals headlined by the yellow gold and navy lacquer version in a prized limited edition.

pilot timepiece — Breitling Classic AVI Chronograph 42

Another luxury brand with a rich history in aviation watches, Breitling nods to the original 1953 Ref. 765 AVI Co-Pilot in its latest offerings. The Classic AVI collection uses a 42mm format moulded from the design codes established by the 46mm Super AVI, which itself was inspired by the pioneering Ref. 765 AVI. With the inclusion of a Breitling Calibre 23 chronograph movement, the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 is a lighter version of the Super model in response to customer requests and comes without the brawny GMT complications. It comes in colour schemes which pay homage to four legendary aircraft – the Mustang, the naval Corsair, the Warhawk and the Mosquito.

Patek Philippe also dips back in time – though only eight years to the model’s origins in this case – for the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G. The new Calatrava pilot’s watch comes with either a sunburst blue-grey or lacquered khaki green dial highlighted by white-gold applied numerals that are recessed and filled with luminescent coating. The skeletonised hand displays the home time while the solid hand indicates local time. Chronograph pushers are positioned at two and four o’clock, with enlarged correction push-pieces for local time at eight and 10 o’clock. Its white-gold case is water resistant to 30 metres and features a sapphire crystal case back, and the calfskin strap matches the dial – either grained navy blue or vintage-finish olive green with contrasting cream stitching.

aviation watches — IWC 388106 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun

IWC has a long presence in the aviation sector, soaring back to the 1930s and 1940s, and is proud of its cockpit-instrument look. Essential characteristics of its modern aviator timepieces have remained loyal to the dial design and visual vibe of pre-Second World War models. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 features a green dial with luminescent qualities and 10-bar water-resistant properties (100 metres to non-divers). It has a matching green rubber strap and an 18-carat gold case with a diameter of 41 mm, making it suitable for slender wrists.

Zenith stated its early intention to be involved in the world of aviation when founder Georges Favre-Jacot saw the dawn of the aviation age and wanted his company to be part of it. It now offers a range of pilot’s watches including the Pilot Big Date Flyback, which boasts a black corrugated dial aid with large luminescent Arabic numerals, and the distinctive Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, distinguished by oversized Arabic numerals and powered by the EI Elite automatic manufacture movement. The Pilot Automatic is considered the template for Zenith’s new generation of pilot watches.

Also Read: Zenith Expands its Pilot and Defy Line with the Release of Seven New Watches at the Watches and Wonders 2023

Though a far cry from the precision ‘Time of Trip’ chronographs designed by Heuer and installed on airplane dashboards during the early years of aviation, the contemporary Tag Heuer Autavia still retains a classic feel. The Autavia COSC GMT pilot’s watch comes in steel with a blue sunray brushed dial and luminescent Super-Luminova hands and indexes.

Perhaps most notable within the Bremont collection of aviation models is the Bremont MB range, designed after ejection-seat manufacturer Martin-Baker requested they create a pilot’s watch. The timepiece had to withstand rigorous testing comparable to the ejection seats. The limited-edition MBI is reserved for flyers who have successfully ejected from an aircraft using one of the company’s seats – other versions (MBII and MBIII) are available to all enthusiasts.

Timeless Luxury: The Top Five Most Opulent Watches of 2023

While some may consider a watch as a mere timekeeping device, others see it as a symbol of prestige and sophistication. If you’re curious about the priciest timepieces, this article is for you. From exquisite design to intricate mechanisms, these timepieces are the epitome of luxury. Scroll down to explore the craftsmanship, beauty, and exclusivity that define these expensive watches and make them the most coveted timepieces money can buy in 2023.

5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Manchette for HK$203 million

Ever wondered what the smallest mechanical calibre ever to be manufactured looks like. Look no further than Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 101 which was a miniature-sized dial created in the early 1920s allowing the watchmaker to make a diverse range of watch designs particularly feminine watches. One such watch that featured this tiny calibre is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Manchette which has a strap made of white gold that is inlaid with 576 diamonds and 11 semi-precious crystals. As you would expect, this unique luxury watch is worth hundreds of millions with it being priced at US$26 million (HK$203 million.)

4. Breguet Grande Complication Marie Antoinette for HK$234 million

Getting its name as one of the most intricate pocket watches, the vintage Breguet Grande Complication was a watch that was made-to-order to be gifted to Queen Marie Antoinette with the buyer requesting that the horology piece be made with as much gold as possible and complete with the highest number of features in it. Likewise, this 60mm watch consists of more than 800 parts and 23 complications and is made with 24-carat gold and sapphire. For those who would like to take a closer look at this prestigious watch, it is on display at the L.A. Mayer Museum but if you want to own one, you will need to put down US$30 million (HK$234 million.)

3. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime for HK$280 million

Made especially for the Only Watch 2019 auction, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime made headlines when it received the highest hammer price at the eighth edition of the charity auction, making it one of the most expensive watches to be ever auctioned and making it the third year, the horology brand held on to this coveted position. There are many factors that set this rendition of the Grandmaster Chime apart. It is a two-faced watch consisting of a 48mm dial on either side and boasting a total of 20 different complications and five different chiming options. Moreover, the watch is made of stainless steel which is an uncommon choice for watches that are particularly instilled with various complicated features. During the auction, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime fetched an astonishing price of ₣31 million (HK$280 million.)

2. Graff Diamonds The Fascination for HK$ 313 million

Taking a spot among the most expensive watches ever to be made is the London-based jeweller Graff Diamonds with a diamond-covered timepiece called The Fascination. As the name suggests, the watch is fittingly fascinating as it is complete with 152.96 carats of white diamonds and a detachable pear-shaped diamond that can be switched with the watch dial or worn as a ring after attaching it to a shank. Above all, this three-in-one piece consisting of the rarest and the finest diamonds is also a reflection of the brand’s highly appreciated watchmaking techniques and precision in revealing the time. If you wish to own The Fascination timepiece by Graff Diamonds, it will cost you US$40 million (HK$ 313 million.)

Also Read: Engagement watches are the new engagement rings

1. Graff Diamonds Hallucination for HK$430 million

One glance at the Graff Diamonds Hallucination and anyone will notice why this watch has ranked as one of the most expensive watches since its launch at the 2014 Baselworld. The timepiece is literally covered with 110 carats of various fancy-coloured diamonds in different cuts. Laurence Graff, the founder of Graff Diamonds, even described this extravagant timepiece as a “celebration of the miracle of coloured diamonds.” With the myriad of diamonds being over the top, it can be easy to miss the relatively small pink Quartz dial that is also embellished with pink diamonds around it. Though the dial may not be the first thing to catch people’s attention, it certainly deserves high recognition for being able to tell the time very accurately, not needing a power reserve and not needing to be wound constantly. The Graff Diamonds Hallucination is priced at US$55 million (HK$430 million).

Depth Charge: Underwater watches that go below and beyond sports needs

Diving the depths of the oceans requires skill and daring and the ability to assess the passing of time. Submerging with the right watch is crucial and the latest watertight instruments provide timely assurance and robust good looks for adventurers.

The Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date epitomise the historic link between Rolex and underwater exploration. Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first diver’s wristwatch waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). A version with a date function, the Submariner Date, followed 16 years later. Contemporary models can plunge securely to 300 metres.

The unidirectional rotatable bezel is equipped with a 60-minute graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert – in black, blue or green, depending on the version – that allows divers to monitor their time underwater. This patented insert is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode.

Omega’s ocean story began with the Omega Marine in 1932, the world’s first diver’s watch available to civilians. Characterised by its double case design sealed with cork, the superb water resistance of that timepiece paved the way for the brand’s diving future.

To survive the toughest conditions, Omega created a Concept Ultra Deep watch in 2019 that included indestructible features, such as a case completely machined out of forged grade 5 titanium, robust ‘Manta lugs’ that provided an innovative way of securing the watch to its strap, and a sapphire face with a conical loadbearing design.

The release of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep collection last year allowed all underwater enthusiasts to feel like a professional aquanaut. Seven models, measuring 45.5mm in diameter and water-resistant to 6,000 metres (20,000 feet), are led by a bold version crafted in sand-blasted and forged grade 5 titanium.

Blancpain claims the honour of introducing the first modern dive watch 70 years ago. Revolutionising watchmaking, the Fifty Fathoms was conceived by passionate scuba diver Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then the brand’s CEO.

The 50th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms saw the arrival of a contemporary version, and 20 years later, the homage continues in a new model, the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa, with a high-tech instrument that makes it possible for the first time to measure up to three-hour immersion times. Designed to meet today’s technical diving requirements, the bezel boasts a three-hour scale that is linked to a special hand that completes one full turn in three hours.

The Panerai story is one of innovation in the service of creating tools for marine adventure. The newly released Submersible QuarantaQuattro is water resistant as far down as 300 metres, thanks to the patented crown-protecting device that is inextricably linked to the Italian watchmaker’s history. A unidirectional rotating bezel to measure submersion time and metallic appliques filled with white SuperLumiNova make the watch an indispensable diving instrument.

The first diving watch Bremont ever produced was the 43mm Supermarine 500, back in 2009. This robust timepiece met the criteria of brand co-founders Nick and Giles English – beautifully engineered, practical in design and also tied to its strong aviation heritage. A new entrant to the range is the Supermarine S501, which has drawn direct inspiration from the S301 released in 2017. The more vintage feel was a big differentiator within this series and it has proved incredibly popular. The thicker crystal case was critical to ensure the watch could still reach depths of 500 metres.

Swiss watchmaker Doxa developed the SUB 200 C-Graph II to fulfil the role of a tool watch on high-risk submersions such as cave dives. With a more contemporary diameter of 42mm and a reduced thickness of 15.85mm, it offers the same functionality and features as its larger 45mm sibling presented in 2020 and is also made of the highest quality 316L stainless steel.

Seiko has introduced a diver’s watch that commemorates five of the world’s highest peaks by Japanese adventurer Naomi Uemura. On the textured dial of the Prospex 1970 Diver’s The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition is an image of the contours of Mont Blanc, the first of Uemura’s climbs.

Watch and Wonder: The best of Geneva’s timely fest of fantastic new creations

This year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva displayed another plethora of dazzlingly sophisticated and stylish timepieces. A very grand total of 48 brands welcomed the biggest-ever turnout to the most prestigious watchmaking event of the year. The record attendance for the 2023 edition perused a range of novelties that could not fail to wow even the most seasoned of watch collectors.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432

Panerai unveiled six new Radiomir editions at Watches and Wonders 2023, paying tribute to the prototype presented in 1935. Bearing the brand’s debut annual calendar complication, two Radiomir Annual Calendar watches, PAM01432 and PAM01363, were the highlights. The dial is clearly designed and displays all the requisite information in a neat row at 3 o’clock: day and date visible through two apertures, and the current month on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow. With each monthly cycle, a cam within the P.9010/ AC automatic movement allows the rotating disc and the information display to change instantaneously. PAM01432’s splendid burgundy sun-brushed dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers offers smart contrast to its platinum case.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

The new Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF from Chopard combines precision, style and sportiness. It is the second high-frequency model – an innovation that delivers enhanced accuracy and stability – within the Alpine Eagle collection and is initially difficult to discern from an Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel. While Alpine Eagle watches are traditionally made of the brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel, ethical gold, or a combination of the two, the new Cadence model is all-titanium with a snazzy splash of orange on its black dial. Whereas Lucent Steel is shiny, hard and particularly comfortable to touch, titanium is distinguished by its even lighter weight, darker colour and more robust nature.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex aimed to preserve continuity with the past while demonstrating the powers of invention in its latest creations unveiled at the show. Take the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, which offers even greater visual harmony and a more modern demeanour. The dial graphics have a new balance. Lines of light are reflected from the lugs and the sides of its redesigned middle case. On versions with a Cerachrom bezel, this is edged with the same metal as the middle case. Most striking, though, is the addition of a sapphire caseback, allowing a clear view of the new manufacture 4131 calibre.

Zenith Pilot Automatic

Taking Zenith’s fascination with the world of aviation to a higher plane at Watches and Wonders 2023 is the Pilot Automatic enhanced by an entirely new 40mm case design. Crafted in either stainless steel or black ceramic, it features a distinct flat-top round bezel fixed on top of the rounded case. In the steel version, the surfaces are vertically satin-brushed with polished chamfers; the black ceramic model is microblasted for a stealthy matte finish. The oversized crown, a defining feature of Pilot watches, takes on a more modern, angular form while remaining easy to operate – even with gloves on.

Cartier Tank Normale

Cartier presented delicate and detailed refinements to models in its iconic watch collections. For instance, for its seventh Cartier Privé incarnation, the Maison has added a skeleton movement to the Tank Normale, accompanied by a quirky 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon that is also skeletonised. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes around in 24 hours instead of 12.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time

Patek Philippe also regaled attendees with a substantial number of debutants to an already vast range of collections. In total, it showed 17 new iterations, including Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time, an addition to its travel watches, which is equipped with dual time-zone function and distinguished by its 24-hour display. The Aquanaut Luce line welcomes a new useful and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001. Adorned in blue-grey from dial to matching strap, this elegant rose gold timepiece enriches the brand’s range of complicated watches for women by presenting a non-gem-set model.

Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph

The Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph from Roger Dubuis was another Watches and Wonders 2023 standout. The eye-catching model boasts a 47mm case made of hyper-tech MCF (Mineral Composite Fibre) – a material 2.5 times lighter than ceramic and 13% lighter than carbon. A Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight also features, sitting at 12 o’clock and positioned vertically, so that the entire force of gravity pushes down on the design to keep the watch running efficiently.