Wrist Pilot: High-fliers can reach for the skies with the latest heritage-inspired aviator watches

The concept of the aviation watches has a long and rich history, stretching back to the onset of the wristwatch just after the turn of the last century. A reliable pilot’s watch was considered a vital and necessary part of the navigational armoury for aviators in the early days of flight.

Louis Cartier is said to have created the first pilot’s watch – Santos de Cartier – in 1904 and in so doing gave famous aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont something he had longed for: the ability to tell the time whilst flying. Crucially, this allowed him to carry on manning the controls of his plane without having to look at his pocket watch – a revolutionary concept which meant that the rollout of the aviation watch and the wristwatch could be said to have gone hand in hand.

The modern Cartier Santos-Dumont timepiece continues to imitate its heritage and engineering detail. The latest iteration features a skeleton movement which includes a miniaturised functional oscillating weight in the shape of an aircraft that soars over the globe. The wingspan reminds of a Demoiselle, the plane designed by Santos-Dumont himself. Also evoking the elegant early 1904 model are a gold or steel case, visible screws, a beaded crown and a blue cabochon. The Santos-Dumont Skeleton comes in three metals headlined by the yellow gold and navy lacquer version in a prized limited edition.

pilot timepiece — Breitling Classic AVI Chronograph 42

Another luxury brand with a rich history in aviation watches, Breitling nods to the original 1953 Ref. 765 AVI Co-Pilot in its latest offerings. The Classic AVI collection uses a 42mm format moulded from the design codes established by the 46mm Super AVI, which itself was inspired by the pioneering Ref. 765 AVI. With the inclusion of a Breitling Calibre 23 chronograph movement, the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 is a lighter version of the Super model in response to customer requests and comes without the brawny GMT complications. It comes in colour schemes which pay homage to four legendary aircraft – the Mustang, the naval Corsair, the Warhawk and the Mosquito.

Patek Philippe also dips back in time – though only eight years to the model’s origins in this case – for the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G. The new Calatrava pilot’s watch comes with either a sunburst blue-grey or lacquered khaki green dial highlighted by white-gold applied numerals that are recessed and filled with luminescent coating. The skeletonised hand displays the home time while the solid hand indicates local time. Chronograph pushers are positioned at two and four o’clock, with enlarged correction push-pieces for local time at eight and 10 o’clock. Its white-gold case is water resistant to 30 metres and features a sapphire crystal case back, and the calfskin strap matches the dial – either grained navy blue or vintage-finish olive green with contrasting cream stitching.

aviation watches — IWC 388106 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun

IWC has a long presence in the aviation sector, soaring back to the 1930s and 1940s, and is proud of its cockpit-instrument look. Essential characteristics of its modern aviator timepieces have remained loyal to the dial design and visual vibe of pre-Second World War models. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 features a green dial with luminescent qualities and 10-bar water-resistant properties (100 metres to non-divers). It has a matching green rubber strap and an 18-carat gold case with a diameter of 41 mm, making it suitable for slender wrists.

Zenith stated its early intention to be involved in the world of aviation when founder Georges Favre-Jacot saw the dawn of the aviation age and wanted his company to be part of it. It now offers a range of pilot’s watches including the Pilot Big Date Flyback, which boasts a black corrugated dial aid with large luminescent Arabic numerals, and the distinctive Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, distinguished by oversized Arabic numerals and powered by the EI Elite automatic manufacture movement. The Pilot Automatic is considered the template for Zenith’s new generation of pilot watches.

Also Read: Zenith Expands its Pilot and Defy Line with the Release of Seven New Watches at the Watches and Wonders 2023

Though a far cry from the precision ‘Time of Trip’ chronographs designed by Heuer and installed on airplane dashboards during the early years of aviation, the contemporary Tag Heuer Autavia still retains a classic feel. The Autavia COSC GMT pilot’s watch comes in steel with a blue sunray brushed dial and luminescent Super-Luminova hands and indexes.

Perhaps most notable within the Bremont collection of aviation models is the Bremont MB range, designed after ejection-seat manufacturer Martin-Baker requested they create a pilot’s watch. The timepiece had to withstand rigorous testing comparable to the ejection seats. The limited-edition MBI is reserved for flyers who have successfully ejected from an aircraft using one of the company’s seats – other versions (MBII and MBIII) are available to all enthusiasts.

Timeless Luxury: The Top Five Most Opulent Watches of 2023

While some may consider a watch as a mere timekeeping device, others see it as a symbol of prestige and sophistication. If you’re curious about the priciest timepieces, this article is for you. From exquisite design to intricate mechanisms, these timepieces are the epitome of luxury. Scroll down to explore the craftsmanship, beauty, and exclusivity that define these expensive watches and make them the most coveted timepieces money can buy in 2023.

5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Manchette for HK$203 million

Ever wondered what the smallest mechanical calibre ever to be manufactured looks like. Look no further than Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 101 which was a miniature-sized dial created in the early 1920s allowing the watchmaker to make a diverse range of watch designs particularly feminine watches. One such watch that featured this tiny calibre is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Manchette which has a strap made of white gold that is inlaid with 576 diamonds and 11 semi-precious crystals. As you would expect, this unique luxury watch is worth hundreds of millions with it being priced at US$26 million (HK$203 million.)

4. Breguet Grande Complication Marie Antoinette for HK$234 million

Getting its name as one of the most intricate pocket watches, the vintage Breguet Grande Complication was a watch that was made-to-order to be gifted to Queen Marie Antoinette with the buyer requesting that the horology piece be made with as much gold as possible and complete with the highest number of features in it. Likewise, this 60mm watch consists of more than 800 parts and 23 complications and is made with 24-carat gold and sapphire. For those who would like to take a closer look at this prestigious watch, it is on display at the L.A. Mayer Museum but if you want to own one, you will need to put down US$30 million (HK$234 million.)

3. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime for HK$280 million

Made especially for the Only Watch 2019 auction, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime made headlines when it received the highest hammer price at the eighth edition of the charity auction, making it one of the most expensive watches to be ever auctioned and making it the third year, the horology brand held on to this coveted position. There are many factors that set this rendition of the Grandmaster Chime apart. It is a two-faced watch consisting of a 48mm dial on either side and boasting a total of 20 different complications and five different chiming options. Moreover, the watch is made of stainless steel which is an uncommon choice for watches that are particularly instilled with various complicated features. During the auction, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime fetched an astonishing price of ₣31 million (HK$280 million.)

2. Graff Diamonds The Fascination for HK$ 313 million

Taking a spot among the most expensive watches ever to be made is the London-based jeweller Graff Diamonds with a diamond-covered timepiece called The Fascination. As the name suggests, the watch is fittingly fascinating as it is complete with 152.96 carats of white diamonds and a detachable pear-shaped diamond that can be switched with the watch dial or worn as a ring after attaching it to a shank. Above all, this three-in-one piece consisting of the rarest and the finest diamonds is also a reflection of the brand’s highly appreciated watchmaking techniques and precision in revealing the time. If you wish to own The Fascination timepiece by Graff Diamonds, it will cost you US$40 million (HK$ 313 million.)

Also Read: Engagement watches are the new engagement rings

1. Graff Diamonds Hallucination for HK$430 million

One glance at the Graff Diamonds Hallucination and anyone will notice why this watch has ranked as one of the most expensive watches since its launch at the 2014 Baselworld. The timepiece is literally covered with 110 carats of various fancy-coloured diamonds in different cuts. Laurence Graff, the founder of Graff Diamonds, even described this extravagant timepiece as a “celebration of the miracle of coloured diamonds.” With the myriad of diamonds being over the top, it can be easy to miss the relatively small pink Quartz dial that is also embellished with pink diamonds around it. Though the dial may not be the first thing to catch people’s attention, it certainly deserves high recognition for being able to tell the time very accurately, not needing a power reserve and not needing to be wound constantly. The Graff Diamonds Hallucination is priced at US$55 million (HK$430 million).

Depth Charge: Underwater watches that go below and beyond sports needs

Diving the depths of the oceans requires skill and daring and the ability to assess the passing of time. Submerging with the right watch is crucial and the latest watertight instruments provide timely assurance and robust good looks for adventurers.

The Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date epitomise the historic link between Rolex and underwater exploration. Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first diver’s wristwatch waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). A version with a date function, the Submariner Date, followed 16 years later. Contemporary models can plunge securely to 300 metres.

The unidirectional rotatable bezel is equipped with a 60-minute graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert – in black, blue or green, depending on the version – that allows divers to monitor their time underwater. This patented insert is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode.

Omega’s ocean story began with the Omega Marine in 1932, the world’s first diver’s watch available to civilians. Characterised by its double case design sealed with cork, the superb water resistance of that timepiece paved the way for the brand’s diving future.

To survive the toughest conditions, Omega created a Concept Ultra Deep watch in 2019 that included indestructible features, such as a case completely machined out of forged grade 5 titanium, robust ‘Manta lugs’ that provided an innovative way of securing the watch to its strap, and a sapphire face with a conical loadbearing design.

The release of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep collection last year allowed all underwater enthusiasts to feel like a professional aquanaut. Seven models, measuring 45.5mm in diameter and water-resistant to 6,000 metres (20,000 feet), are led by a bold version crafted in sand-blasted and forged grade 5 titanium.

Blancpain claims the honour of introducing the first modern dive watch 70 years ago. Revolutionising watchmaking, the Fifty Fathoms was conceived by passionate scuba diver Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then the brand’s CEO.

The 50th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms saw the arrival of a contemporary version, and 20 years later, the homage continues in a new model, the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa, with a high-tech instrument that makes it possible for the first time to measure up to three-hour immersion times. Designed to meet today’s technical diving requirements, the bezel boasts a three-hour scale that is linked to a special hand that completes one full turn in three hours.

The Panerai story is one of innovation in the service of creating tools for marine adventure. The newly released Submersible QuarantaQuattro is water resistant as far down as 300 metres, thanks to the patented crown-protecting device that is inextricably linked to the Italian watchmaker’s history. A unidirectional rotating bezel to measure submersion time and metallic appliques filled with white SuperLumiNova make the watch an indispensable diving instrument.

The first diving watch Bremont ever produced was the 43mm Supermarine 500, back in 2009. This robust timepiece met the criteria of brand co-founders Nick and Giles English – beautifully engineered, practical in design and also tied to its strong aviation heritage. A new entrant to the range is the Supermarine S501, which has drawn direct inspiration from the S301 released in 2017. The more vintage feel was a big differentiator within this series and it has proved incredibly popular. The thicker crystal case was critical to ensure the watch could still reach depths of 500 metres.

Swiss watchmaker Doxa developed the SUB 200 C-Graph II to fulfil the role of a tool watch on high-risk submersions such as cave dives. With a more contemporary diameter of 42mm and a reduced thickness of 15.85mm, it offers the same functionality and features as its larger 45mm sibling presented in 2020 and is also made of the highest quality 316L stainless steel.

Seiko has introduced a diver’s watch that commemorates five of the world’s highest peaks by Japanese adventurer Naomi Uemura. On the textured dial of the Prospex 1970 Diver’s The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition is an image of the contours of Mont Blanc, the first of Uemura’s climbs.

Watch and Wonder: The best of Geneva’s timely fest of fantastic new creations

This year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva displayed another plethora of dazzlingly sophisticated and stylish timepieces. A very grand total of 48 brands welcomed the biggest-ever turnout to the most prestigious watchmaking event of the year. The record attendance for the 2023 edition perused a range of novelties that could not fail to wow even the most seasoned of watch collectors.

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432

Panerai unveiled six new Radiomir editions at Watches and Wonders 2023, paying tribute to the prototype presented in 1935. Bearing the brand’s debut annual calendar complication, two Radiomir Annual Calendar watches, PAM01432 and PAM01363, were the highlights. The dial is clearly designed and displays all the requisite information in a neat row at 3 o’clock: day and date visible through two apertures, and the current month on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow. With each monthly cycle, a cam within the P.9010/ AC automatic movement allows the rotating disc and the information display to change instantaneously. PAM01432’s splendid burgundy sun-brushed dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers offers smart contrast to its platinum case.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

The new Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF from Chopard combines precision, style and sportiness. It is the second high-frequency model – an innovation that delivers enhanced accuracy and stability – within the Alpine Eagle collection and is initially difficult to discern from an Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel. While Alpine Eagle watches are traditionally made of the brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel, ethical gold, or a combination of the two, the new Cadence model is all-titanium with a snazzy splash of orange on its black dial. Whereas Lucent Steel is shiny, hard and particularly comfortable to touch, titanium is distinguished by its even lighter weight, darker colour and more robust nature.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex aimed to preserve continuity with the past while demonstrating the powers of invention in its latest creations unveiled at the show. Take the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, which offers even greater visual harmony and a more modern demeanour. The dial graphics have a new balance. Lines of light are reflected from the lugs and the sides of its redesigned middle case. On versions with a Cerachrom bezel, this is edged with the same metal as the middle case. Most striking, though, is the addition of a sapphire caseback, allowing a clear view of the new manufacture 4131 calibre.

Zenith Pilot Automatic

Taking Zenith’s fascination with the world of aviation to a higher plane at Watches and Wonders 2023 is the Pilot Automatic enhanced by an entirely new 40mm case design. Crafted in either stainless steel or black ceramic, it features a distinct flat-top round bezel fixed on top of the rounded case. In the steel version, the surfaces are vertically satin-brushed with polished chamfers; the black ceramic model is microblasted for a stealthy matte finish. The oversized crown, a defining feature of Pilot watches, takes on a more modern, angular form while remaining easy to operate – even with gloves on.

Cartier Tank Normale

Cartier presented delicate and detailed refinements to models in its iconic watch collections. For instance, for its seventh Cartier Privé incarnation, the Maison has added a skeleton movement to the Tank Normale, accompanied by a quirky 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon that is also skeletonised. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes around in 24 hours instead of 12.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time

Patek Philippe also regaled attendees with a substantial number of debutants to an already vast range of collections. In total, it showed 17 new iterations, including Ref. 5224R-001 Calatrava Travel Time, an addition to its travel watches, which is equipped with dual time-zone function and distinguished by its 24-hour display. The Aquanaut Luce line welcomes a new useful and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001. Adorned in blue-grey from dial to matching strap, this elegant rose gold timepiece enriches the brand’s range of complicated watches for women by presenting a non-gem-set model.

Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph

The Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph from Roger Dubuis was another Watches and Wonders 2023 standout. The eye-catching model boasts a 47mm case made of hyper-tech MCF (Mineral Composite Fibre) – a material 2.5 times lighter than ceramic and 13% lighter than carbon. A Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight also features, sitting at 12 o’clock and positioned vertically, so that the entire force of gravity pushes down on the design to keep the watch running efficiently.

Watch Mania – Explaining the desire for the watch masterpiece

The recent online acquisition of a remarkable Patek Philippe has caused something of a stir in the watch-collecting community. Fetching US$5,815,300, the watch was the most valuable timepiece ever sold online globally and the most expensive object ever sold online at Christie’s Asia. This astronomical price for a Grand Complications Sky Moon Tourbillon has left some industry insiders wondering how high prices will go.

Buoyed by this massive headliner, the online watch sale at Christie’s Hong Kong in March proved a success with total sales comfortably exceeding US$8 million. Alexandre Bigler, Vice President and Head of Watches at Christie’s Asia Pacific believes this achievement is indicative of a vibrant market for watches across the world. He further opines that the sale cements Hong Kong’s status as an international epicentre for watch collecting.

He also attributed the success to the diverse selection of collectible watches. “Not only did we offer rare timepieces from reputed brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex, Cartier and Vacheron Constantin, but also iconic designs from other highly-sought after brands like Gerald Genta, Andersen, Hublot, A. Lange & Söhne., and Jaeger Le-Coultre.”

But just what is it that drives buyers to collect watches and pay such sky-high prices? Kenneth Or, founder of Hong Kong-based Ken’s Watches, a supplier of new and second-hand premium watches since 2002, says that for some, it is simply a hobby, just like any other pastime that gives pleasure, such as collecting arts or wine or cars or jewels.

But there are also financial motives. “It is now considered to be a kind of investment tool as well,” he notes. “Watches have their own value. A watch not only keeps its value but sometimes its value might also be increased as time passes by. One can enjoy collecting something they love while they know they can always get the money back.”

Or also believes the market is readily accessible for the avid watch lover. “Moreover, the international watch market is very mature nowadays. It is easy and convenient to sell a watch and get the money back,” he adds.

What drives up the value of a watch and makes it collectible depends on numerous factors, according to Or. “It is about the brand, the watch design and style, popularity in the market, production volume, demand in the market, and if there are any stories behind the item. All these criteria support the value of a watch and make it a collectible one.”

Technical complexity
Christie’s Bigler believes the value of some premium watches is derived from their historical significance, reflecting such things as technological advancements and design trends of their time. Some collectors also have an astute appreciation of the painstaking craftsmanship and technical expertise confined to a miniature work of art on the wrist.

As a case in point, he sees the price-busting Patek Philippe watch as one of the revered manufacturer’s most intricate and impressive creations. “ The reference 6002G seems to effortlessly combine immense mechanical complication with amazing aesthetics and readability,” he says.

“This inspirational double-face grand complication with hand-made blue cloisonné and champlevé enamel dial was launched in 2013 to replace the first Sky Moon Tourbillon model, reference 5002, launched in 2001 and formerly the most complicated wristwatch in the world.

“Boasting 12 complications, reference 6002G is housed in an extraordinary sculptural 44mm white-gold case entirely hand-chased and engraved with almost three-dimensional elegant scrolls which takes Patek Philippe’s master craftsmen over 100 hours to achieve,” he says. “In this superlative horological work of art, rare handcraft skills are combined with a mechanical tour-de-force, representing the very highest level of watchmaking and artistry.” Watches such as these will always retain their value. Bugler advises clients to only acquire watches they feel truly passionate about.

Unique And Intriguing Timepieces That Watch Enthusiasts Will Love

Conventionally, when people think of watches, they associate them with time and the traditional dial styles – analogue and digital but when you are looking to win the wrist game, it is always best to opt for something that will have people starring and definitely pondering about the watch you are sporting. That is why we have put together some attention-grasping unique watches that approach the concept of time in unique ways that will leave anyone intrigued.

Starting with the Ambush timeless bracelet, this watch needs no further explanation than its name itself. It subtracts the concept of time from itself, thus resulting in its plain-yet-bold-looking dial style which is elevated with its oyster bracelet strap. Made with Japanese stainless steel, this watch from the Tokyo-based brand comes in two colours – gold and silver tone.

Another timepiece that diminishes the notion of time is the Hautlence Pinball which encourages everyone to live in the moment and relish every second rather than keeping count of it. Accordingly, this horological invention has the pinball game on its dial thus automatically tingling one’s playfulness and childhood memories. Back in 2017, Christie’s auctioned a Hautlence Pinball Ball-E which was ultimately bought for about HK$300 thousand.

Also Read: Highly-valued Craftsmanships – The Latest Top Bids in the Auction World

Next is the Anicorn The Redundant which was designed as a clock for a class project by Ji Lee. Anicorn decided to reimagine the attention-grasping dial style – which got so much attention when Lee posted a sketch on his portfolio – into a watch. Sticking to the theme of redundancy, this watch tells the time twice with both the still time hands on the circumference and the moving hands on the centre telling the time.

This particular watch – Projects Breakfast – takes great motivation from the first meal of the day with its designer Claire Desjardins coming up with a layout that resembles your typical breakfast consisting of an egg omelette, a pancake and more on a plate. Instead of your typical clock hands, Projects Breakfast opts for something quirky and has a fork to tell the hour, a knife to tell the minutes and a spoon for the seconds.

Yet another eccentric horology creation is the Watchismo Click Keypad which is completely unique as it employs keyboard-style buttons which will have lights blinking on them in the order in which the time should be read. Simply put, the lights will flash in the following order – 0, 9, 4 and 5 – when the time is 9:45 AM (and 9:45 PM if it is the 12-hour-clock iteration). Clicking on the hash key will reveal the calendar day.

For people who prefer something less playful and more classy, there is the Qlocktwo W35 which has the most unique way of revealing the time. It is shown in words so instead of the usual digital or analogue pattern, the time appears in wordings like ‘it is half past nine.’ Available in various languages, this water-resistant watch can also be used to check the day, seconds and battery level.

The Devon Tread 2, on the other hand, has a more mechanical look to it as it uses an interwoven two-belt pattern to tell the time. Boasting a one-of-a-kind and avant-garde design, the horizontal motion belt tells the hours and the vertical one shows the minutes.

Great, new and innovative smartwatches for the smart consumer

New and even more sophisticated smartwatches are dazzling consumers with their technical wizardry and life-enhancing features. Some luxury brands have upped their product offering to higher levels of functionality and quality to capture the needs – in real-time – of today’s active and demanding watch lovers.

Take Montblanc, which continues its smart watchmaking evolution with the introduction of the Montblanc Summit 3. This latest iteration of the Maison’s smartwatch is an expression of elevated luxury with a handcrafted lightweight titanium watch case and configurable watch face inspired by Montblanc’s heritage in watchmaking paired with handmade calf leather and rubber straps.

The Montblanc Summit 3 incorporates a personal health suite on its owner’s wrist, including step tracking, sleep monitoring of the different sleep phases, and blood oxygen measurement. The fitness app has evolved its offering with a variety of workouts that can be tracked to maximise their impact over time. Powered with Wear OS by Google, the new Montblanc smartwatch can be enhanced with the addition of all the apps necessary to meet the needs of its owner.

Signalling its intent as another major Swiss player in smartwatches, TAG Heuer expands its offer to all committed athletes with the Connected Calibre E4 Sport Edition 45mm. Thanks to new functions as well as a redesigned strap, this smart timepiece can monitor any sporting activity with an even wider range of data.

It is boosted by the launch of a new “Trail & Hiking” application for runners and hikers who love the mountains and going higher and further than anyone else. Taking advantage of the barometer, the new activities feature will add to the watch’s multisport offering, enriching it even further. Changing the main metric to Altitude Gained allows the user to monitor their efforts during the session.

Apple Watch Ultra stakes its smartwatch leader claim anew with the introduction of novel three bands — Trail Loop, Alpine Loop and Ocean Band — offering unique design features that provide a secure, comfortable fit for every adventure. Made from aerospace-grade titanium, Apple Watch Ultra provides the perfect balance of weight, durability and corrosion resistance. The new Action button in aerospace-style high-contrast international orange is easily customised for instant access to a variety of features, including Workouts, Compass Waypoints, Backtrack and more.

Apple Watch Ultra has three built-in microphones that significantly improve sound quality in voice calls during any conditions.

Turning to Samsung, the Galaxy Watch5 series boasts comprehensive health monitoring features and is built with durable materials to accompany users in all kinds of daily activities and keep tabs on their energetic lifestyle. With the Galaxy Buds2 Pro in synch, exceptional sound quality, combined with enhanced active noise cancellation, assure an unparalleled listening experience that starts at the wrist.

The watch series offers a variety of smart monitoring functions to help users exercise, maintain a healthy lifestyle and manage health conditions easily. The Body Composition measurement tool sends microcurrents to get a detailed snapshot in just 15 seconds, with key measurements like skeletal muscle, basal metabolic rate, body water and body fat percentage, allowing accurate track of fitness progress and personalised exercise goals.

With a range of features to support your physical health to mental health, Mobvoi TicWatch Pro 3 empowers your workouts both outdoors and indoors, up to the mountains, and down into the swimming pool. There are 100+ workout modes and the watch itself is around 30% lighter and reinforced with stainless steel.

The Michael Kors Access Gen 6 comes equipped with a range of high-tech features – think Bluetooth-enabled calling, Spotify functionality so you can listen to your favourite tunes as you work out, and a heart rate and activity tracker. All their smartwatches are compatible with iPhone technology as well as Android so there is no need to worry about downloading anything new.

Jetting in from Garmin, the Marq Aviator (Gen 2) is a purpose-built luxury modern tool watch which features a hardened swept-wing titanium bracelet, a stunning AMOLED touchscreen display with traditional button controls and a 46mm case made of Grade 5 titanium for an ultradurable design. Designed for pilots, it can give weather reports and has a barometric altimeter among a host of other amazing tools. The jetlag adviser proves handy once on the ground.

(Text: Neil Dolby)

Face Time: Delightful dial styles for discerning haute horology investors and collectors

Through the ages, many of the finest watchmakers have frequently sought inspiration from the worlds of art and fashion. Typically, this has led to powerful graphic imagery being incorporated into the delightful dial styles of some of the most memorable high-end precision timepieces. At present, numerous such high-concept horological high points merit particular attention.

First up, there is the third watch in Chopard’s L.U.C Skull One series, an exclusive collection inspired by Día de los Muertos – Mexico’s infamous Day of the Dead festival. Available as a 25-piece limited edition, its bold, high-concept design embodies the marque’s hallmark creativity and innovation, while also remaining a prime example of horological excellence. Its centrepiece is a vivid, pop art-inspired Mexican calavera – the annual festival’s unmistakable skull motif – presented in bright flashes of colour and surrounded by a 40mm black beadblasted, DLC-coated stainless-steel case.

In essence, the L.U.C Skull One Calavera Pop Art is a striking blackened stainless-steel watch powered by an exquisite, hand-finished mechanical movement. Defined by its uncompromising and iridescent homage to the Day of the Dead’s timeless rituals, its dial features a transferred skull motif in punchy hues of blue, red, orange, green and yellow, giving the watch an unashamedly non-conformist, pop-art feel.

Second up is something of a departure for Hermès, with the forefronting of its new Super H brand hero motif akin to a horological Bat-Signal in the sky above a stunning graphic representation of Paris. The timepiece in question – the Slim d’Hermès Minuit au Faubourg – ably fuses the world of pop art with the French capital’s iconic skyline and is available in two limited edition series, each comprising 24 highly distinct, exquisitely wrought watches. The singular style of the range, meanwhile, is largely derived from a celebrated silk scarf designed in 2014 by Dimitri Rybaltchenko, an award-winning French artist.

On its highly distinctive dial, the Eiffel Tower stands out against a sky streaked with clouds and studded with aventurine stars, while a beam of light (fashioned from Super-LumiNova) projects out from the unmistakable monument. It is surrounded by a hand-drawn, micropainted embodiment of Parisian life, with its multi-layered rendering bestowing a grimy canvas-like finish.

Also Read: Spring Time – Stylistic Watches are a Motif for all the 365 Days

Equally enchanting is the fourth iteration of Roger Dubuis’ Urban Culture Tribe collection – the Excalibur Liu Wei Monotourbillon (MT). Keen to make this edition supremely special, the marque granted renowned sculptor and illustrator Liu Wei access to its fabled inner sanctum – the Manufacture itself. It was within its venerable walls that the much-admired artist set about reinterpreting the astral signature of the iconic Excalibur MT. Opting for a complex composite of multi-coloured lines, Liu delivered a stylised, bustling, digitised statement piece, which reinvented the original Excalibur MT as a beguiling blend of clashing colours and pulsing lights that uniquely captures the modern urban world.

Building on this, the brand then opted to enhance the hour markers with black SuperLuminova, creating a vivid glow-in-the-dark effect, which is most strikingly apparent under UV light. In a further refinement, the Roger Dubuis and Swiss Made logos have been accentuated with powdered SuperLuminova for the first time, an innovation that sees this element of the timepiece shift through three different colour variants – silver by day, green by night and blue under UV light.

Moving on now to something equally engaging for the lady who loves fine timepieces, the Vacheron Constantin Égérie collection, with its eternally elegant embrace of Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie, was unashamedly conceived as a paean to discerning femininity.

Daintily engraved in the style of Burano lace, the dial of the Égérie Creative Edition sees five enchanting elements expertly superimposed to create a dial of rare distinction. Re-deploying an ancient decorative technique and executed by the marque’s master guillocheur on venerable 100-year-old equipment, the pleated tapisserie motif sits on a silver base, a fine counterpoint to the black enamel.

Commenting on the inspiration for the piece, Christian Selmoni, the brand’s Style and Heritage Director, said: “During the course of Vacheron Constantin’s long history, many of its finest timepieces have been inspired by embroidery and lace motifs, particularly those drawn from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras. More recently, lace has inspired our Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements – French lace timepiece combining guilloché work, Grand Feu enamelling and gem-setting.”

Finally, for this month, we turn to the Moonphase, Skeleton and Flying Tourbillon Pasha de Cartier watches. Developed and produced at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the first of these features a delicate moon-phase movement in the shape of a circle surrounded by a midnight-blue star-strewn planisphere, a striking contrast to the typically bold design of a Pasha de Cartier watch.

(Text: Neil Dolby)

Spring Time – Stylistic Watches are a Motif for all the 365 Days

Just as the embrace of Chinese culture has become one of the fastest-growing phenomena of the 21st century, so too has the Chinese New Year – or the Spring Festival – established itself as an event of truly international proportions. Typically honoured in all of the largest cities around the world, citizens of every nationality now look forward to processions, street dances, and all the paraphernalia traditionally associated with the most important date on the Chinese calendar.

Inevitably, this has not been lost on many of the world’s biggest brands, companies never known to miss out on a commercial opportunity. In particular, luxury precision watchmakers – ever mindful of the value of the Chinese and Hong Kong markets – have celebrated this Rabbit Year with custom limited edition timepieces.

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Boasting octagonal-shaped cases, the Harry Winston Emerald watch collection features cases crafted in 18-karat white or rose gold. The 18mm models also boast a diamond-set bezel as a nod to the house’s “King of Diamonds” legacy. Available in mother-of-pearl, the dial is crowned with rubies in the form of an emerald cut. The standout from this collection comes with a red, classic alligator leather strap, which is a straight-out nod to traditional CNY festivities.

In celebration of 2023 being the Rabbit Year, IWC Schaffhausen has unveiled its Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year”. Housed in an ergonomic 40-millimetre stainless-steel case and featuring a striking burgundy dial and gold-plated hands and applique, a particular highlight is hidden at the back of the watch – the automatic winding mechanism’s gold-plated oscillating weight in the form of a rabbit.

The Hong Kong tourbillon brand Memorigin, meanwhile, is honouring its long-term commitment to promoting Chinese traditions through the launch of its Memorigin Zodiac Series. The periphery of the dial is designed in an auspicious fret pattern, while the indices are represented by rubies or blue sapphires. The watch is equipped with a manual-winding tourbillon movement that consists of 155 pieces of subassembly module and 18 jewels. In all, it has 40 hours of power reserve and a vibration frequency of 28,800 oscillations per hour.

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Turning now to the OMEGA Constellation Aventurine, this features dials fashioned from natural Aventurine stone, meaning no two dials are ever alike, with options to choose bezels paved with diamonds or engraved with Roman numerals. The watch also features diamond-set bezels and skeletonised hour and minute hands, as well as dial-matching leather straps in red.

For its part, Parmigiani Fleurier has gone full-on Chinese with the launch of its Tonda PF Xiali Calendar, with its offer of a precision take on the Chinese calendar over the long haul said to be a world first. In order to deliver on this, the watch conceals an extremely sophisticated mechanism within an all-new movement – the Calibre PF008 – which facilitates the display of classical Chinese characters. As the Chinese calendar is not cyclical, the complication is mechanically programmed and extends across 12 years via an intricate cam system.

For its part, TUDOR has debuted new versions of its Black Bay line in steel and yellow gold with a fixed bezel. These Black Bay 31, 36, 39 and 41 S&G models, as they are known, proffer a unique aesthetic with their T-curved cases intermittently highlighted with polished yellow gold sections. Fitted with Manufacture Calibres, including reference MT5201, one of the marque’s new family of movements, these models are said to be at the very cutting edge of technical watchmaking refinement.

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Rounding off this month’s selection, Vacheron Constantin is looking to boost its appeal to the mainland and Hong Kong Haute horology aficionados and collectors by offering a customised rabbit-motif limited edition of its Métiers d’Art – The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac range for the Rabbit Year. The iconic representations appear on the dials and have to be etched directly into the metal, with the pattern remaining semi-embedded while standing out from its gold base thanks to a subtle array of accentuating reliefs designed to create an engaging depth effect.

(Text: Joseff Musa)

007 O’Clock – James Bond’s Deadly Horology

When bantering about the 007 franchise with sundry chums and acquaintances, talk is most likely to gravitate either towards the special ladies in the special agent’s life – the “Bond Birds” as they were chirpily known in times pre-woke – or the gadgets that helped him flee the clutches of sundry super baddies, the jetpack, say, or that souped-up seabed-cruising sportscar.

Those in the know, however, have quite a different focus. Nearly every instalment in the longrunning movie series sees our licenced-to-kill hero sporting one particularly fine timepiece or other. It’s a conceit drawn from the real-life peccadilloes of Ian Fleming, the author of the original Bond books, who penned each caper with his trusty Rolex 1016 Explorer strapped to his wrist.

It’s a tradition apparent right from the very beginning of the movie series, with 1962’s Dr. No seeing Bond, James Bond sporting a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538. Aside from the historic debut of this movie staple, the watch itself was pretty momentous in horological terms as it set a new standard for divers’ watches by being waterproof to a depth of 300 metres. The dial’s Chromalight display is also something of an innovation in that it delivered unprecedented visibility in even the darkest of environments. Notably, it also features hour markers in simple shapes and broad hour and minute heads.

Later, in the same movie, Sean Connery (the franchise’s first Bond) was seen wearing a Gruen Precision 510 gold dress watch on a black fabric strap, a timepiece known to chronometer connoisseurs as the Sylvia Trench watch. With a brown lizard leather band fitted as standard, this fine vintage piece also featured a 14k gold fill tang buckle and a 33 x 33 mm case with a round case back and a Champagne stick dial.

In Thunderball, four films on but still incarnated as Connery, Bond was brandishing a Breitling Top Time Chronograph, which helpfully had been customised to incorporate a Geiger counter, allowing Our Hero to dodge radioactive isotopes. In addition, it also boasted a stainless-steel case, a black dial with applied baton hour markers, two metal subdials, luminous hands, sweep centre seconds and a metal tachymeter ring around the dial. Fancy.

By the time of the next film – 1969’s On Her Majesty’s Secret Service – Bond was briefly incarnated as George Lazenby, an Australian former male model. Despite the change, his watch remained a Rolex, this time an Oyster Perpetual with an expanding bracelet. When not doing double-duty as a knuckle-duster it was otherwise a simple, time-only watch, albeit one with a legendary self-winding Perpetual movement and a 100-meter water-resistant Oyster case.

Skip forward a Bond or two and 1987 saw 007 (now Timothy Dalton) donning a Tag Heuer Professional Night Drive Ref. 980.031 in The Living Daylight. By 1995, Dalton’s successor, Piers Brosnan had moved on to an Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Ref. 2541.80.00 for 1995’s GoldenEye, with Q Branch thoughtfully adding a – sadly nonstandard – laser and a remote detonator.

It is the start of a beautiful relationship as, for the next 20 years or so, Omega was Bond’s wristwatch marque of choice. This saw his favoured crystal domed anti-reflective and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal watch become a familiar sight, along with its quartz precision movement with a rhodium-plated finish and battery life indicator.

Moving forward to 2002, Die Another Day – Brosnan’s fourth and final outing as the series’ lead – saw Bond partnered with comely M16 agent Miranda Frost. During an iconic fight scene, we later catch a glimpse of her own stylish timepiece – a black Tissot T-Touch watch with a black rubber strap. A multifunctional analogue/digital watch, it also boasted a handy bezel-mounted compass.

Proving that this showcasing of a more feminine timepiece wasn’t a one-off, 2012’s Skyfall (Daniel Craig’s third Bond) saw M, the boss of M16 (as played by Dame Judi Dench), wearing a Hamilton Jazzmaster Lady watch. This particular Jazzmaster paired an understated 27mm stainless steel case with an elegant black leather strap and muted black dial, a classic look for the most classic movie franchise of them all.

(Text: Joseff Musa)