Watch Mania – Explaining the desire for the watch masterpiece

The recent online acquisition of a remarkable Patek Philippe has caused something of a stir in the watch-collecting community. Fetching US$5,815,300, the watch was the most valuable timepiece ever sold online globally and the most expensive object ever sold online at Christie’s Asia. This astronomical price for a Grand Complications Sky Moon Tourbillon has left some industry insiders wondering how high prices will go.

Buoyed by this massive headliner, the online watch sale at Christie’s Hong Kong in March proved a success with total sales comfortably exceeding US$8 million. Alexandre Bigler, Vice President and Head of Watches at Christie’s Asia Pacific believes this achievement is indicative of a vibrant market for watches across the world. He further opines that the sale cements Hong Kong’s status as an international epicentre for watch collecting.

He also attributed the success to the diverse selection of collectible watches. “Not only did we offer rare timepieces from reputed brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex, Cartier and Vacheron Constantin, but also iconic designs from other highly-sought after brands like Gerald Genta, Andersen, Hublot, A. Lange & Söhne., and Jaeger Le-Coultre.”

But just what is it that drives buyers to collect watches and pay such sky-high prices? Kenneth Or, founder of Hong Kong-based Ken’s Watches, a supplier of new and second-hand premium watches since 2002, says that for some, it is simply a hobby, just like any other pastime that gives pleasure, such as collecting arts or wine or cars or jewels.

But there are also financial motives. “It is now considered to be a kind of investment tool as well,” he notes. “Watches have their own value. A watch not only keeps its value but sometimes its value might also be increased as time passes by. One can enjoy collecting something they love while they know they can always get the money back.”

Or also believes the market is readily accessible for the avid watch lover. “Moreover, the international watch market is very mature nowadays. It is easy and convenient to sell a watch and get the money back,” he adds.

What drives up the value of a watch and makes it collectible depends on numerous factors, according to Or. “It is about the brand, the watch design and style, popularity in the market, production volume, demand in the market, and if there are any stories behind the item. All these criteria support the value of a watch and make it a collectible one.”

Technical complexity
Christie’s Bigler believes the value of some premium watches is derived from their historical significance, reflecting such things as technological advancements and design trends of their time. Some collectors also have an astute appreciation of the painstaking craftsmanship and technical expertise confined to a miniature work of art on the wrist.

As a case in point, he sees the price-busting Patek Philippe watch as one of the revered manufacturer’s most intricate and impressive creations. “ The reference 6002G seems to effortlessly combine immense mechanical complication with amazing aesthetics and readability,” he says.

“This inspirational double-face grand complication with hand-made blue cloisonné and champlevé enamel dial was launched in 2013 to replace the first Sky Moon Tourbillon model, reference 5002, launched in 2001 and formerly the most complicated wristwatch in the world.

“Boasting 12 complications, reference 6002G is housed in an extraordinary sculptural 44mm white-gold case entirely hand-chased and engraved with almost three-dimensional elegant scrolls which takes Patek Philippe’s master craftsmen over 100 hours to achieve,” he says. “In this superlative horological work of art, rare handcraft skills are combined with a mechanical tour-de-force, representing the very highest level of watchmaking and artistry.” Watches such as these will always retain their value. Bugler advises clients to only acquire watches they feel truly passionate about.

Unique And Intriguing Timepieces That Watch Enthusiasts Will Love

Conventionally, when people think of watches, they associate them with time and the traditional dial styles – analogue and digital but when you are looking to win the wrist game, it is always best to opt for something that will have people starring and definitely pondering about the watch you are sporting. That is why we have put together some attention-grasping unique watches that approach the concept of time in unique ways that will leave anyone intrigued.

Starting with the Ambush timeless bracelet, this watch needs no further explanation than its name itself. It subtracts the concept of time from itself, thus resulting in its plain-yet-bold-looking dial style which is elevated with its oyster bracelet strap. Made with Japanese stainless steel, this watch from the Tokyo-based brand comes in two colours – gold and silver tone.

Another timepiece that diminishes the notion of time is the Hautlence Pinball which encourages everyone to live in the moment and relish every second rather than keeping count of it. Accordingly, this horological invention has the pinball game on its dial thus automatically tingling one’s playfulness and childhood memories. Back in 2017, Christie’s auctioned a Hautlence Pinball Ball-E which was ultimately bought for about HK$300 thousand.

Also Read: Highly-valued Craftsmanships – The Latest Top Bids in the Auction World

Next is the Anicorn The Redundant which was designed as a clock for a class project by Ji Lee. Anicorn decided to reimagine the attention-grasping dial style – which got so much attention when Lee posted a sketch on his portfolio – into a watch. Sticking to the theme of redundancy, this watch tells the time twice with both the still time hands on the circumference and the moving hands on the centre telling the time.

This particular watch – Projects Breakfast – takes great motivation from the first meal of the day with its designer Claire Desjardins coming up with a layout that resembles your typical breakfast consisting of an egg omelette, a pancake and more on a plate. Instead of your typical clock hands, Projects Breakfast opts for something quirky and has a fork to tell the hour, a knife to tell the minutes and a spoon for the seconds.

Yet another eccentric horology creation is the Watchismo Click Keypad which is completely unique as it employs keyboard-style buttons which will have lights blinking on them in the order in which the time should be read. Simply put, the lights will flash in the following order – 0, 9, 4 and 5 – when the time is 9:45 AM (and 9:45 PM if it is the 12-hour-clock iteration). Clicking on the hash key will reveal the calendar day.

For people who prefer something less playful and more classy, there is the Qlocktwo W35 which has the most unique way of revealing the time. It is shown in words so instead of the usual digital or analogue pattern, the time appears in wordings like ‘it is half past nine.’ Available in various languages, this water-resistant watch can also be used to check the day, seconds and battery level.

The Devon Tread 2, on the other hand, has a more mechanical look to it as it uses an interwoven two-belt pattern to tell the time. Boasting a one-of-a-kind and avant-garde design, the horizontal motion belt tells the hours and the vertical one shows the minutes.

Great, new and innovative smartwatches for the smart consumer

New and even more sophisticated smartwatches are dazzling consumers with their technical wizardry and life-enhancing features. Some luxury brands have upped their product offering to higher levels of functionality and quality to capture the needs – in real-time – of today’s active and demanding watch lovers.

Take Montblanc, which continues its smart watchmaking evolution with the introduction of the Montblanc Summit 3. This latest iteration of the Maison’s smartwatch is an expression of elevated luxury with a handcrafted lightweight titanium watch case and configurable watch face inspired by Montblanc’s heritage in watchmaking paired with handmade calf leather and rubber straps.

The Montblanc Summit 3 incorporates a personal health suite on its owner’s wrist, including step tracking, sleep monitoring of the different sleep phases, and blood oxygen measurement. The fitness app has evolved its offering with a variety of workouts that can be tracked to maximise their impact over time. Powered with Wear OS by Google, the new Montblanc smartwatch can be enhanced with the addition of all the apps necessary to meet the needs of its owner.

Signalling its intent as another major Swiss player in smartwatches, TAG Heuer expands its offer to all committed athletes with the Connected Calibre E4 Sport Edition 45mm. Thanks to new functions as well as a redesigned strap, this smart timepiece can monitor any sporting activity with an even wider range of data.

It is boosted by the launch of a new “Trail & Hiking” application for runners and hikers who love the mountains and going higher and further than anyone else. Taking advantage of the barometer, the new activities feature will add to the watch’s multisport offering, enriching it even further. Changing the main metric to Altitude Gained allows the user to monitor their efforts during the session.

Apple Watch Ultra stakes its smartwatch leader claim anew with the introduction of novel three bands — Trail Loop, Alpine Loop and Ocean Band — offering unique design features that provide a secure, comfortable fit for every adventure. Made from aerospace-grade titanium, Apple Watch Ultra provides the perfect balance of weight, durability and corrosion resistance. The new Action button in aerospace-style high-contrast international orange is easily customised for instant access to a variety of features, including Workouts, Compass Waypoints, Backtrack and more.

Apple Watch Ultra has three built-in microphones that significantly improve sound quality in voice calls during any conditions.

Turning to Samsung, the Galaxy Watch5 series boasts comprehensive health monitoring features and is built with durable materials to accompany users in all kinds of daily activities and keep tabs on their energetic lifestyle. With the Galaxy Buds2 Pro in synch, exceptional sound quality, combined with enhanced active noise cancellation, assure an unparalleled listening experience that starts at the wrist.

The watch series offers a variety of smart monitoring functions to help users exercise, maintain a healthy lifestyle and manage health conditions easily. The Body Composition measurement tool sends microcurrents to get a detailed snapshot in just 15 seconds, with key measurements like skeletal muscle, basal metabolic rate, body water and body fat percentage, allowing accurate track of fitness progress and personalised exercise goals.

With a range of features to support your physical health to mental health, Mobvoi TicWatch Pro 3 empowers your workouts both outdoors and indoors, up to the mountains, and down into the swimming pool. There are 100+ workout modes and the watch itself is around 30% lighter and reinforced with stainless steel.

The Michael Kors Access Gen 6 comes equipped with a range of high-tech features – think Bluetooth-enabled calling, Spotify functionality so you can listen to your favourite tunes as you work out, and a heart rate and activity tracker. All their smartwatches are compatible with iPhone technology as well as Android so there is no need to worry about downloading anything new.

Jetting in from Garmin, the Marq Aviator (Gen 2) is a purpose-built luxury modern tool watch which features a hardened swept-wing titanium bracelet, a stunning AMOLED touchscreen display with traditional button controls and a 46mm case made of Grade 5 titanium for an ultradurable design. Designed for pilots, it can give weather reports and has a barometric altimeter among a host of other amazing tools. The jetlag adviser proves handy once on the ground.

(Text: Neil Dolby)

Face Time: Delightful dial styles for discerning haute horology investors and collectors

Through the ages, many of the finest watchmakers have frequently sought inspiration from the worlds of art and fashion. Typically, this has led to powerful graphic imagery being incorporated into the delightful dial styles of some of the most memorable high-end precision timepieces. At present, numerous such high-concept horological high points merit particular attention.

First up, there is the third watch in Chopard’s L.U.C Skull One series, an exclusive collection inspired by Día de los Muertos – Mexico’s infamous Day of the Dead festival. Available as a 25-piece limited edition, its bold, high-concept design embodies the marque’s hallmark creativity and innovation, while also remaining a prime example of horological excellence. Its centrepiece is a vivid, pop art-inspired Mexican calavera – the annual festival’s unmistakable skull motif – presented in bright flashes of colour and surrounded by a 40mm black beadblasted, DLC-coated stainless-steel case.

In essence, the L.U.C Skull One Calavera Pop Art is a striking blackened stainless-steel watch powered by an exquisite, hand-finished mechanical movement. Defined by its uncompromising and iridescent homage to the Day of the Dead’s timeless rituals, its dial features a transferred skull motif in punchy hues of blue, red, orange, green and yellow, giving the watch an unashamedly non-conformist, pop-art feel.

Second up is something of a departure for Hermès, with the forefronting of its new Super H brand hero motif akin to a horological Bat-Signal in the sky above a stunning graphic representation of Paris. The timepiece in question – the Slim d’Hermès Minuit au Faubourg – ably fuses the world of pop art with the French capital’s iconic skyline and is available in two limited edition series, each comprising 24 highly distinct, exquisitely wrought watches. The singular style of the range, meanwhile, is largely derived from a celebrated silk scarf designed in 2014 by Dimitri Rybaltchenko, an award-winning French artist.

On its highly distinctive dial, the Eiffel Tower stands out against a sky streaked with clouds and studded with aventurine stars, while a beam of light (fashioned from Super-LumiNova) projects out from the unmistakable monument. It is surrounded by a hand-drawn, micropainted embodiment of Parisian life, with its multi-layered rendering bestowing a grimy canvas-like finish.

Also Read: Spring Time – Stylistic Watches are a Motif for all the 365 Days

Equally enchanting is the fourth iteration of Roger Dubuis’ Urban Culture Tribe collection – the Excalibur Liu Wei Monotourbillon (MT). Keen to make this edition supremely special, the marque granted renowned sculptor and illustrator Liu Wei access to its fabled inner sanctum – the Manufacture itself. It was within its venerable walls that the much-admired artist set about reinterpreting the astral signature of the iconic Excalibur MT. Opting for a complex composite of multi-coloured lines, Liu delivered a stylised, bustling, digitised statement piece, which reinvented the original Excalibur MT as a beguiling blend of clashing colours and pulsing lights that uniquely captures the modern urban world.

Building on this, the brand then opted to enhance the hour markers with black SuperLuminova, creating a vivid glow-in-the-dark effect, which is most strikingly apparent under UV light. In a further refinement, the Roger Dubuis and Swiss Made logos have been accentuated with powdered SuperLuminova for the first time, an innovation that sees this element of the timepiece shift through three different colour variants – silver by day, green by night and blue under UV light.

Moving on now to something equally engaging for the lady who loves fine timepieces, the Vacheron Constantin Égérie collection, with its eternally elegant embrace of Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie, was unashamedly conceived as a paean to discerning femininity.

Daintily engraved in the style of Burano lace, the dial of the Égérie Creative Edition sees five enchanting elements expertly superimposed to create a dial of rare distinction. Re-deploying an ancient decorative technique and executed by the marque’s master guillocheur on venerable 100-year-old equipment, the pleated tapisserie motif sits on a silver base, a fine counterpoint to the black enamel.

Commenting on the inspiration for the piece, Christian Selmoni, the brand’s Style and Heritage Director, said: “During the course of Vacheron Constantin’s long history, many of its finest timepieces have been inspired by embroidery and lace motifs, particularly those drawn from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras. More recently, lace has inspired our Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements – French lace timepiece combining guilloché work, Grand Feu enamelling and gem-setting.”

Finally, for this month, we turn to the Moonphase, Skeleton and Flying Tourbillon Pasha de Cartier watches. Developed and produced at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the first of these features a delicate moon-phase movement in the shape of a circle surrounded by a midnight-blue star-strewn planisphere, a striking contrast to the typically bold design of a Pasha de Cartier watch.

(Text: Neil Dolby)

Spring Time – Stylistic Watches are a Motif for all the 365 Days

Just as the embrace of Chinese culture has become one of the fastest-growing phenomena of the 21st century, so too has the Chinese New Year – or the Spring Festival – established itself as an event of truly international proportions. Typically honoured in all of the largest cities around the world, citizens of every nationality now look forward to processions, street dances, and all the paraphernalia traditionally associated with the most important date on the Chinese calendar.

Inevitably, this has not been lost on many of the world’s biggest brands, companies never known to miss out on a commercial opportunity. In particular, luxury precision watchmakers – ever mindful of the value of the Chinese and Hong Kong markets – have celebrated this Rabbit Year with custom limited edition timepieces.

Also Read: Time Warp: Six of the best – and quirkiest – watch dials on the market

Boasting octagonal-shaped cases, the Harry Winston Emerald watch collection features cases crafted in 18-karat white or rose gold. The 18mm models also boast a diamond-set bezel as a nod to the house’s “King of Diamonds” legacy. Available in mother-of-pearl, the dial is crowned with rubies in the form of an emerald cut. The standout from this collection comes with a red, classic alligator leather strap, which is a straight-out nod to traditional CNY festivities.

In celebration of 2023 being the Rabbit Year, IWC Schaffhausen has unveiled its Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year”. Housed in an ergonomic 40-millimetre stainless-steel case and featuring a striking burgundy dial and gold-plated hands and applique, a particular highlight is hidden at the back of the watch – the automatic winding mechanism’s gold-plated oscillating weight in the form of a rabbit.

The Hong Kong tourbillon brand Memorigin, meanwhile, is honouring its long-term commitment to promoting Chinese traditions through the launch of its Memorigin Zodiac Series. The periphery of the dial is designed in an auspicious fret pattern, while the indices are represented by rubies or blue sapphires. The watch is equipped with a manual-winding tourbillon movement that consists of 155 pieces of subassembly module and 18 jewels. In all, it has 40 hours of power reserve and a vibration frequency of 28,800 oscillations per hour.

Also Read: Buyer’s Guide: 7 impressive hyper-accurate tourbillon watches

Turning now to the OMEGA Constellation Aventurine, this features dials fashioned from natural Aventurine stone, meaning no two dials are ever alike, with options to choose bezels paved with diamonds or engraved with Roman numerals. The watch also features diamond-set bezels and skeletonised hour and minute hands, as well as dial-matching leather straps in red.

For its part, Parmigiani Fleurier has gone full-on Chinese with the launch of its Tonda PF Xiali Calendar, with its offer of a precision take on the Chinese calendar over the long haul said to be a world first. In order to deliver on this, the watch conceals an extremely sophisticated mechanism within an all-new movement – the Calibre PF008 – which facilitates the display of classical Chinese characters. As the Chinese calendar is not cyclical, the complication is mechanically programmed and extends across 12 years via an intricate cam system.

For its part, TUDOR has debuted new versions of its Black Bay line in steel and yellow gold with a fixed bezel. These Black Bay 31, 36, 39 and 41 S&G models, as they are known, proffer a unique aesthetic with their T-curved cases intermittently highlighted with polished yellow gold sections. Fitted with Manufacture Calibres, including reference MT5201, one of the marque’s new family of movements, these models are said to be at the very cutting edge of technical watchmaking refinement.

Also Read: 7 stunning dive watch models that blend beautiful form with true functionality

Rounding off this month’s selection, Vacheron Constantin is looking to boost its appeal to the mainland and Hong Kong Haute horology aficionados and collectors by offering a customised rabbit-motif limited edition of its Métiers d’Art – The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac range for the Rabbit Year. The iconic representations appear on the dials and have to be etched directly into the metal, with the pattern remaining semi-embedded while standing out from its gold base thanks to a subtle array of accentuating reliefs designed to create an engaging depth effect.

(Text: Joseff Musa)

007 O’Clock – James Bond’s Deadly Horology

When bantering about the 007 franchise with sundry chums and acquaintances, talk is most likely to gravitate either towards the special ladies in the special agent’s life – the “Bond Birds” as they were chirpily known in times pre-woke – or the gadgets that helped him flee the clutches of sundry super baddies, the jetpack, say, or that souped-up seabed-cruising sportscar.

Those in the know, however, have quite a different focus. Nearly every instalment in the longrunning movie series sees our licenced-to-kill hero sporting one particularly fine timepiece or other. It’s a conceit drawn from the real-life peccadilloes of Ian Fleming, the author of the original Bond books, who penned each caper with his trusty Rolex 1016 Explorer strapped to his wrist.

It’s a tradition apparent right from the very beginning of the movie series, with 1962’s Dr. No seeing Bond, James Bond sporting a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538. Aside from the historic debut of this movie staple, the watch itself was pretty momentous in horological terms as it set a new standard for divers’ watches by being waterproof to a depth of 300 metres. The dial’s Chromalight display is also something of an innovation in that it delivered unprecedented visibility in even the darkest of environments. Notably, it also features hour markers in simple shapes and broad hour and minute heads.

Later, in the same movie, Sean Connery (the franchise’s first Bond) was seen wearing a Gruen Precision 510 gold dress watch on a black fabric strap, a timepiece known to chronometer connoisseurs as the Sylvia Trench watch. With a brown lizard leather band fitted as standard, this fine vintage piece also featured a 14k gold fill tang buckle and a 33 x 33 mm case with a round case back and a Champagne stick dial.

In Thunderball, four films on but still incarnated as Connery, Bond was brandishing a Breitling Top Time Chronograph, which helpfully had been customised to incorporate a Geiger counter, allowing Our Hero to dodge radioactive isotopes. In addition, it also boasted a stainless-steel case, a black dial with applied baton hour markers, two metal subdials, luminous hands, sweep centre seconds and a metal tachymeter ring around the dial. Fancy.

By the time of the next film – 1969’s On Her Majesty’s Secret Service – Bond was briefly incarnated as George Lazenby, an Australian former male model. Despite the change, his watch remained a Rolex, this time an Oyster Perpetual with an expanding bracelet. When not doing double-duty as a knuckle-duster it was otherwise a simple, time-only watch, albeit one with a legendary self-winding Perpetual movement and a 100-meter water-resistant Oyster case.

Skip forward a Bond or two and 1987 saw 007 (now Timothy Dalton) donning a Tag Heuer Professional Night Drive Ref. 980.031 in The Living Daylight. By 1995, Dalton’s successor, Piers Brosnan had moved on to an Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Ref. 2541.80.00 for 1995’s GoldenEye, with Q Branch thoughtfully adding a – sadly nonstandard – laser and a remote detonator.

It is the start of a beautiful relationship as, for the next 20 years or so, Omega was Bond’s wristwatch marque of choice. This saw his favoured crystal domed anti-reflective and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal watch become a familiar sight, along with its quartz precision movement with a rhodium-plated finish and battery life indicator.

Moving forward to 2002, Die Another Day – Brosnan’s fourth and final outing as the series’ lead – saw Bond partnered with comely M16 agent Miranda Frost. During an iconic fight scene, we later catch a glimpse of her own stylish timepiece – a black Tissot T-Touch watch with a black rubber strap. A multifunctional analogue/digital watch, it also boasted a handy bezel-mounted compass.

Proving that this showcasing of a more feminine timepiece wasn’t a one-off, 2012’s Skyfall (Daniel Craig’s third Bond) saw M, the boss of M16 (as played by Dame Judi Dench), wearing a Hamilton Jazzmaster Lady watch. This particular Jazzmaster paired an understated 27mm stainless steel case with an elegant black leather strap and muted black dial, a classic look for the most classic movie franchise of them all.

(Text: Joseff Musa)

World-time Watches cleared for take-off

As long-frustrated would-be travelers finally get the green light to globetrot once again, there couldn’t be a more opportune moment to reassess that most trusty of travel companions – the world time watch. Doing pretty much exactly what it says on the tin, these precision-engineered wonders tell you the time anywhere in the world just by glancing at the appropriate time zone indicator.

Typically, this involves viewing the outer chapter ring, located just within the bezel displaying the names of one (or more) cities for each of the 24 reference time zones. There are seven current models that we commend as worthy of your particular attention…

First up is the Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557 (appropriately Hora Mundi is Latin for ‘World Time’). To be fair, this may be something of a controversial nomination, given that the watch is more truthfully a GMT model – one designed to display both local time and Greenwich Mean Time – rather than a true world timer. This quibble aside, the Ref. 5557 is a truly impressive wrist adornment.

Undoubtedly more of a true world time timepiece, however, is Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph. The very first Patek to feature a finely integrated calibre CH 28-520 HU movement, its fetchingly designed salmon dial comes ringed with the requisite 24 cities’ names, while the time zone chapter ring is usefully burnished in black and white, making distinguishing night and daytime refreshingly straightforward.

Putting a playful spin on traditional aesthetics, meanwhile, is Bovet’s Orbis Mundi, which was launched to celebrate the maison’s recent bicentennial. Boldly incorporating a new manually wound in-house calibre 15BM01HU movement, the world time mechanism resides on the 12 o’clock subdial, while a window on the lower half of the aventurine dial allows for a fascinating view of the inner workings of the escapement below.

Marking a similar milestone for a rival marque is the blue-on-white Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer GMT Steel from OMEGA. This 15th anniversary edition features a luminous blue dial with all the requisite 24-city and 24-hour discs boldly depicted. Featuring a date aperture at 6 o’clock, the main attraction here is the gorgeously hand-enameled sapphire crystal world map at its heart.

Another artwork-themed creation comes courtesy of a canny collaboration between independent watchmaker Svend Andersen and famed Singaporean vintage watch collector Benjamin Chee: the Celestial Voyager Sunset over Cappadocia. Burnished in a similar white-and-blue motif, the timepiece’s dial is dominated by the iconic hot air balloons and picturesque vistas synonymous with its eponymous Turkish locale, all brought to life through painstaking cloisonné enameling work.

Standing in stark visual contrast is the black-dominant Blast Moonstruck from Ulysse Nardin. In something of an ambitious move, this particular watch not only shows world time, but it can also indicate dual time, while also delivering a highly accurate recreation of the moon’s real-time waxing and waning, as well as its effect on the global tidescape.

All of these displays extend in continuous circles outward from the central, geocentric image of Earth as viewed from the North Pole. This complexity is elegantly packaged in a sleek combination of ceramic and blackened titanium.

Finally, we turn to the truly avant-garde in the notable form of the GMT Balancier Convexe, a recent release from the house of Gruebel Forsey. In an interesting counterpoint to our first candidate chronometer, this watch, too, is somewhat misnomered.

Rather than being a conventional GMT model, instead, it ambitiously incorporates a multitude of travel-related features, all separately arrayed across its distinctive dished fascia. Local time is indicated by two red arrow hands, while a second time zone sundial is propped on the left and a dominant 3D rotating globe ringed with the 24 time zones and cities is on the right, all of which are underscored by an inclined balance wheel at 6 o’clock.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Old Time Magic- Secondhand second-hands win out as the watch world rewinds

The haute horology industry is famously adept when it comes to innovation in both the materials and movements. Indeed, it is this very aptitude that sees it continually able to astound, astonish and engage discerning enthusiasts and collectors alike. Of late, seven such old time, timepieces have particularly distinguished themselves in one of the world’s many specialist sales rooms.

Leading the list is a 1967 Cartier Crash, which went for a highly-respectable US$1.5 million (roughly US$1.65 million when the buyer’s premium is factored in) when it went under the digital gavel at a recent online auction hosted by Loupe This, the California-based virtual watch vendor. To put this a little into perspective, when the watch actually debuted some 55 years back, it could have been yours for an eminently reasonable US$50. Perhaps its latter-day valuation owes much to its clear homage to Salvador Dali’s iconic The Persistence of Memory.

Only last year, another fine example of heritage horology made notable waves when it came up for auction – a 1957 OMEGA Speedmaster “Broad Arrow” Ref. 2915-1. The Speedmaster is rightly famed as the only model of watch ever to be worn on the moon, a distinction owed to the marque’s exclusive partnership with NASA. Its value, has also been heightened by the fact that it’s one of relatively few Omegas to not feature the brand’s seahorse emblem on its case back. All told, this was just one of the many factors (including its near pristine condition) that saw it fetch a staggering US$3.12 million.

Another piece worthy of due acknowledgment is the 1952 Rolex Bao Dai Ref. 6062, a classic timepiece historically commissioned by the last Emperor of Vietnam. It remained in the possession of the royal family until it was sold in 2002. Some 15 years later, it cropped up again and an anonymous buyer snapped it up for US$5.06 million, in the process setting a new record for the most expensive Rolex ever to be auctioned.

That record, however, only endured for some five months, before another Rolex – the 1968 ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona – soared past it in the record-breaking stakes. This latter watch, gifted to the eponymous actor by his wife within a year of its release, was the first Daytona to feature a tachymeter scale on its bezel, while its dial came strikingly burnished in three different colours – black, white and red. Much beloved by the star, he eventually gifted it to his daughter’s then-boyfriend in 1984, who, in turn, sold it five years ago via Phillips New York for the princely sum of US$17.75 million. To date, it remains the most expensive vintage wristwatch ever sold at auction.

Turning to pocket watches, the star performer here is the 200-year-old Breguet & Fils, Paris, No. 2667. A truly elegant 18K gold creation said to be the first-ever resonance watch fashioned by brand founder Abraham- Louis Breguet, it was sold in 1814 for roughly 5,000 French Francs (about US$750 in today’s money). By contrast, when it headlined a Christie’s auction a decade ago, it commanded a hefty US$4.69 million price tag.

The currently priciest vintage pocket watch, however, came courtesy of Patek Philippe in the form of its 1943 Henry Graves Supercomplication. Deemed one of the most intricate creations ever to exit a Swiss workshop, this 18K gold timepiece contains a truly impressive 24 complications. Commissioned by the eponymous Henry Graves Jr, the price he paid some 79 years back was the equivalent of US$15,000 today in value terms. Some eight years ago, though, when auctioned by Sotheby’s Geneva branch, it went up for nearly 1,600 times that figure – US$23.98 million.

Another vintage Patek worth a mention is the 1943-made Stainless Steel Ref. 1518, which, five years back, sold for some US$11.134 million. Sleekly-designed and with a diameter of just 35mm, it was the first timepiece to ever integrate both a perpetual calendar and a chronograph. Furthermore, only 281 Ref.1518s were ever made, with just four of these are burnished in stainless steel.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Speed against Time- Best Racing watches for living life on fast track

A test of speed against time, the creation of racing watches is truly an exciting feat. Although it rose to prominence in the mid-90s, its inception dates back to 1821 – the invention of the first racing chronograph. Crafted for the passionate horse racer Louis XVIII, its evolution has since been adjusted to serve racers of all types, including car racers.

Racing watches boast features that distinctly stand out from other timekeepers. Notably, the tachymeter scale and high-contrast angled dial that track every split second of the wearer’s journey for the former, while the latter allows wearers to check the sweeping seconds of the watch’s hand without having to take your hands off the wheel.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is undoubtedly the most famous racing watch of all time. Named after the Daytona International Speedway in Florida, the timepiece was introduced as a racing chronograph in 1963 and became especially popular after being worn by actor and enthusiastic racing driving Paul Newman, who had his own collection of Cosmograph Daytona models. The tachymetric scale on the bezel provides excellent legibility, making the Daytona the ideal instrument for measuring speeds of up to 400 units per hour, either in kilometres or miles. It has a power reserve of 72 hours and remains on the front line of classic sports chronographs even after almost six decades.

The Omega Speedmaster, on the other hand, was one of the first chronographs to have a tachymeter scale etched onto the bezel instead of the dial on the original 1957 model. It has since shifted to the edge, improving readability. The Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional in particular, though a tribute to Neil Armstrong and mankind’s first steps on the moon, was originally a traditional racing watch with a perforated leather racing strap and a dial featuring a checked racing-style minute track.

Meanwhile, the Mille Miglia by Chopard flaunts a new, sleek, grey-and-blue dial design and exceptional functionality. The 2022 iteration, a limited edition of 1,000 stainless steel pieces and 250 dual-tone versions with 18-carat ethical rose gold, marks its position as the official timekeeper of the annual Brescia to Rome round trip, with the race logo engraved on the caseback that houses its automatic cam-lever-integrated chronograph, built on Valjoux 7750’s architecture.

Lauded for its uncommonly high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, Zenith has put out an optimised version of the Chronomaster Sport. Building on its revolutionary one-tenth of a second chronograph display, its newest sports edition is replete with a broad, super-legible ceramic bezel, a tri-compax dial in matte black and matte white, and a 60-hour power reserve.

After a successful collaboration with Lamborghini, Roger Dubius is laying strong foundations in the Motorsport industry by joining hands with Formula 1 tyre supplier Pirelli, while sharing a piece of victory with its wearers. The Excalibur Spider Pirelli straps are made with rubber inlays from the Pirelli Formula 1 tyres of actual winning vehicles, also featuring the Cinturato intermediate pattern. Taking as much time as it takes to change a tyre at a F1 pit stop (three seconds), the straps comes off and on just as quickly. Within its titanium casing is a self-winding movement of 28,800 bph and a power reserve of up to 60 hours. However, the model is limited to only 88 pieces per colourway, while the crown and bezel are also interchangeable with the brand’s first ever automatic skeleton.

Reputed for producing automobile-inspired racing watches, Tag Heuer’s Monaco collection is another firm favourite for Formula 1 racecar drivers, though its original 1969 design was the world’s first square-case water-resistant automatic chronograph. Its latest edition, powered by the Heuer 02 calibre movement with a reserve of 80 hours, features the same square-form in a masculine 39mm stainless-steel case.

Another classic timepiece embodying the spirit of a racing cars is Hublot Fusion Ferrari GT, made in collaboration with Ferrari’s head designer Flavio Manzoni. Featuring Hublot’s UNICO HUB1280 flyback openwork movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, its design is a brilliant combination between traditional Swiss watchmaking and cutting-edge technology. Created as a limited 500-piece series, it arrives in Titanium, King Gold and 3D carbon. It’s black rubber strap is made of Schedoni leather which is known to be used in Ferrari’s Maranello GT cars, while its dynamic design boasts an intricate skeleton dial.

(Text: Zaira Abbas)

7 stunning dive watch models that blend beautiful form with true functionality

Once upon a (not so long ago) time, dive watches were predominantly tools of necessity. Given the inherent dangers and limitations of the pastime – limited oxygen supply, underwater pressure, restricted visibility – they were vital safety aids that kept divers alive. So, these timepieces historically catered to the unique challenges of the sport. In 1926, Rolex developed the Oyster, the first hermetically-sealed waterproof wristwatch. Six years later, Omega developed the Marine, capable of withstanding depths of up to 135m.

Today, however, such wrist adornments are more often worn as statement pieces rather than underwater assistants. Be that as it may, the world’s leading watchmakers remain dedicated to crafting durable, legible and eminently usable diving chronometers that are as elegant as they are functional. Here, we highlight seven particular standout models worthy of attention.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet

First on our list is Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet, the latest interpretation of its 1956-released Fifty Fathoms dive watch. Kitted out with a full annual calendar complication, it nevertheless maintains its roots as a diving aid, boasting heightened durability with its titanium grade 23 alloy case, as well as an almost industrial all-grey, fully matte look. It’s also equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale to time dives, with the calibre 6654.P self-winding movement churning out a generous 72-hour power reserve.

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco

dive-watch-Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro-gafencu.jpg — Photo: Panerai

Similarly drawing from its rich history is Panerai with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco. While the Submersible only debuted as a solo model in 1998, the design harks back to watches made for the Egyptian Navy back in 1956. Featuring the iconic circle-in-a-square shaped case, it comes fitted with a calibre P.900 movement and can withstand depths of 300m. An olive-green strap rounds out a vintage-inspired utilitarian aesthetic.

Also Read: Make a date with one of these fabulous perpetual calendar watches

Oris Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition

dive-watch-Oris-Aquis-New-York-Harbor-Limited-Edition-gafencu.jpg — Photo: Oris

Swiss-based Oris has also embraced a verdant look for its Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition. The watchmaker is known for championing environmental sustainability projects across the globe; in this instance, profits from the 2,000-piece release are earmarked for the Billion Oyster Project, an initiative launched in hopes to reseed that number of oysters into New York waters. The watch features a yellowy-green mother-of-pearl dial that’s burnished with super legible Super-LumiNova-coated hour markers and hour and minute hands, all housed in a 41.5mm steel case and powered by an automatic calibre 400 movement.

Richard Mille RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth

For something more outré, Richard Mille unveiled the RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth at the 11th Les Voiles de St. Barth Richard Mille regatta in April. Characterised by an eye-catching Caribbean blue-on-white Quartz TPT aesthete, it offers optimal water resistance and durability thanks to the grade 5 titanium case middle. Blending a plethora of colours to increase legibility, the over-sized 60-minute counter rotating bezel makes for equally easy viewing. Limited to just 120 pieces, this technical timepiece is certified to withstand pressures to a depth of 300m.

IWC Aquatimer Automatic

dive-watch-IWC-Aquatic-Automatic-gafencu — Photo: IWC

A more minimalist approach comes courtesy of IWC’s latest Aquatimer Automatic, available with either a blue or black dial and the buyer’s choice of rubber strap or steel bracelet. Powered by the brand-new calibre 32111 movement, the 42mm dive watch eschews the traditional external rotating bezel in favour of an internal printed 60-minute scale lining the angled flange of the dial edge, thereby doing away with a secondary crown and minimising the risk of water creeping in.

Also read: Bare-faced Glory: The timeless allure of skeletonised dials

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 4000 — Photo: Rolex

The next entrant, Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, may not be so recent a release as others on our line-up, but it still merits particular mention. Crafted from Rolesor, its triple waterproof system allows this timepiece to withstand waters as much as 1,220m deep. A staggering feat of engineering indeed.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium

That, however, pales in comparison to Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium. As befits the final sub-aquatic timepiece on our list, it serves up an unimaginable water resistance to a depth of 6,000m – a greater drop than from the tallest mountain in Europe. It was this very watch, albeit in a concept form, that was strapped onto the Limiting Factor submarine during its record-breaking dive to 10,925m back in 2019. Painstakingly crafted from sandblasted grade 5 titanium and fitted with an athletic Nato-style strap, this timepiece stylishly represents the very pinnacle of dive watch-making.

Also read: Celebrating the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication