World-time Watches cleared for take-off

As long-frustrated would-be travelers finally get the green light to globetrot once again, there couldn’t be a more opportune moment to reassess that most trusty of travel companions – the world time watch. Doing pretty much exactly what it says on the tin, these precision-engineered wonders tell you the time anywhere in the world just by glancing at the appropriate time zone indicator.

Typically, this involves viewing the outer chapter ring, located just within the bezel displaying the names of one (or more) cities for each of the 24 reference time zones. There are seven current models that we commend as worthy of your particular attention…

First up is the Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557 (appropriately Hora Mundi is Latin for ‘World Time’). To be fair, this may be something of a controversial nomination, given that the watch is more truthfully a GMT model – one designed to display both local time and Greenwich Mean Time – rather than a true world timer. This quibble aside, the Ref. 5557 is a truly impressive wrist adornment.

Undoubtedly more of a true world time timepiece, however, is Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph. The very first Patek to feature a finely integrated calibre CH 28-520 HU movement, its fetchingly designed salmon dial comes ringed with the requisite 24 cities’ names, while the time zone chapter ring is usefully burnished in black and white, making distinguishing night and daytime refreshingly straightforward.

Putting a playful spin on traditional aesthetics, meanwhile, is Bovet’s Orbis Mundi, which was launched to celebrate the maison’s recent bicentennial. Boldly incorporating a new manually wound in-house calibre 15BM01HU movement, the world time mechanism resides on the 12 o’clock subdial, while a window on the lower half of the aventurine dial allows for a fascinating view of the inner workings of the escapement below.

Marking a similar milestone for a rival marque is the blue-on-white Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer GMT Steel from OMEGA. This 15th anniversary edition features a luminous blue dial with all the requisite 24-city and 24-hour discs boldly depicted. Featuring a date aperture at 6 o’clock, the main attraction here is the gorgeously hand-enameled sapphire crystal world map at its heart.

Another artwork-themed creation comes courtesy of a canny collaboration between independent watchmaker Svend Andersen and famed Singaporean vintage watch collector Benjamin Chee: the Celestial Voyager Sunset over Cappadocia. Burnished in a similar white-and-blue motif, the timepiece’s dial is dominated by the iconic hot air balloons and picturesque vistas synonymous with its eponymous Turkish locale, all brought to life through painstaking cloisonné enameling work.

Standing in stark visual contrast is the black-dominant Blast Moonstruck from Ulysse Nardin. In something of an ambitious move, this particular watch not only shows world time, but it can also indicate dual time, while also delivering a highly accurate recreation of the moon’s real-time waxing and waning, as well as its effect on the global tidescape.

All of these displays extend in continuous circles outward from the central, geocentric image of Earth as viewed from the North Pole. This complexity is elegantly packaged in a sleek combination of ceramic and blackened titanium.

Finally, we turn to the truly avant-garde in the notable form of the GMT Balancier Convexe, a recent release from the house of Gruebel Forsey. In an interesting counterpoint to our first candidate chronometer, this watch, too, is somewhat misnomered.

Rather than being a conventional GMT model, instead, it ambitiously incorporates a multitude of travel-related features, all separately arrayed across its distinctive dished fascia. Local time is indicated by two red arrow hands, while a second time zone sundial is propped on the left and a dominant 3D rotating globe ringed with the 24 time zones and cities is on the right, all of which are underscored by an inclined balance wheel at 6 o’clock.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Old Time Magic- Secondhand second-hands win out as the watch world rewinds

The haute horology industry is famously adept when it comes to innovation in both the materials and movements. Indeed, it is this very aptitude that sees it continually able to astound, astonish and engage discerning enthusiasts and collectors alike. Of late, seven such old time, timepieces have particularly distinguished themselves in one of the world’s many specialist sales rooms.

Leading the list is a 1967 Cartier Crash, which went for a highly-respectable US$1.5 million (roughly US$1.65 million when the buyer’s premium is factored in) when it went under the digital gavel at a recent online auction hosted by Loupe This, the California-based virtual watch vendor. To put this a little into perspective, when the watch actually debuted some 55 years back, it could have been yours for an eminently reasonable US$50. Perhaps its latter-day valuation owes much to its clear homage to Salvador Dali’s iconic The Persistence of Memory.

Only last year, another fine example of heritage horology made notable waves when it came up for auction – a 1957 OMEGA Speedmaster “Broad Arrow” Ref. 2915-1. The Speedmaster is rightly famed as the only model of watch ever to be worn on the moon, a distinction owed to the marque’s exclusive partnership with NASA. Its value, has also been heightened by the fact that it’s one of relatively few Omegas to not feature the brand’s seahorse emblem on its case back. All told, this was just one of the many factors (including its near pristine condition) that saw it fetch a staggering US$3.12 million.

Another piece worthy of due acknowledgment is the 1952 Rolex Bao Dai Ref. 6062, a classic timepiece historically commissioned by the last Emperor of Vietnam. It remained in the possession of the royal family until it was sold in 2002. Some 15 years later, it cropped up again and an anonymous buyer snapped it up for US$5.06 million, in the process setting a new record for the most expensive Rolex ever to be auctioned.

That record, however, only endured for some five months, before another Rolex – the 1968 ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona – soared past it in the record-breaking stakes. This latter watch, gifted to the eponymous actor by his wife within a year of its release, was the first Daytona to feature a tachymeter scale on its bezel, while its dial came strikingly burnished in three different colours – black, white and red. Much beloved by the star, he eventually gifted it to his daughter’s then-boyfriend in 1984, who, in turn, sold it five years ago via Phillips New York for the princely sum of US$17.75 million. To date, it remains the most expensive vintage wristwatch ever sold at auction.

Turning to pocket watches, the star performer here is the 200-year-old Breguet & Fils, Paris, No. 2667. A truly elegant 18K gold creation said to be the first-ever resonance watch fashioned by brand founder Abraham- Louis Breguet, it was sold in 1814 for roughly 5,000 French Francs (about US$750 in today’s money). By contrast, when it headlined a Christie’s auction a decade ago, it commanded a hefty US$4.69 million price tag.

The currently priciest vintage pocket watch, however, came courtesy of Patek Philippe in the form of its 1943 Henry Graves Supercomplication. Deemed one of the most intricate creations ever to exit a Swiss workshop, this 18K gold timepiece contains a truly impressive 24 complications. Commissioned by the eponymous Henry Graves Jr, the price he paid some 79 years back was the equivalent of US$15,000 today in value terms. Some eight years ago, though, when auctioned by Sotheby’s Geneva branch, it went up for nearly 1,600 times that figure – US$23.98 million.

Another vintage Patek worth a mention is the 1943-made Stainless Steel Ref. 1518, which, five years back, sold for some US$11.134 million. Sleekly-designed and with a diameter of just 35mm, it was the first timepiece to ever integrate both a perpetual calendar and a chronograph. Furthermore, only 281 Ref.1518s were ever made, with just four of these are burnished in stainless steel.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Speed against Time- Best Racing watches for living life on fast track

A test of speed against time, the creation of racing watches is truly an exciting feat. Although it rose to prominence in the mid-90s, its inception dates back to 1821 – the invention of the first racing chronograph. Crafted for the passionate horse racer Louis XVIII, its evolution has since been adjusted to serve racers of all types, including car racers.

Racing watches boast features that distinctly stand out from other timekeepers. Notably, the tachymeter scale and high-contrast angled dial that track every split second of the wearer’s journey for the former, while the latter allows wearers to check the sweeping seconds of the watch’s hand without having to take your hands off the wheel.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is undoubtedly the most famous racing watch of all time. Named after the Daytona International Speedway in Florida, the timepiece was introduced as a racing chronograph in 1963 and became especially popular after being worn by actor and enthusiastic racing driving Paul Newman, who had his own collection of Cosmograph Daytona models. The tachymetric scale on the bezel provides excellent legibility, making the Daytona the ideal instrument for measuring speeds of up to 400 units per hour, either in kilometres or miles. It has a power reserve of 72 hours and remains on the front line of classic sports chronographs even after almost six decades.

The Omega Speedmaster, on the other hand, was one of the first chronographs to have a tachymeter scale etched onto the bezel instead of the dial on the original 1957 model. It has since shifted to the edge, improving readability. The Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional in particular, though a tribute to Neil Armstrong and mankind’s first steps on the moon, was originally a traditional racing watch with a perforated leather racing strap and a dial featuring a checked racing-style minute track.

Meanwhile, the Mille Miglia by Chopard flaunts a new, sleek, grey-and-blue dial design and exceptional functionality. The 2022 iteration, a limited edition of 1,000 stainless steel pieces and 250 dual-tone versions with 18-carat ethical rose gold, marks its position as the official timekeeper of the annual Brescia to Rome round trip, with the race logo engraved on the caseback that houses its automatic cam-lever-integrated chronograph, built on Valjoux 7750’s architecture.

Lauded for its uncommonly high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, Zenith has put out an optimised version of the Chronomaster Sport. Building on its revolutionary one-tenth of a second chronograph display, its newest sports edition is replete with a broad, super-legible ceramic bezel, a tri-compax dial in matte black and matte white, and a 60-hour power reserve.

After a successful collaboration with Lamborghini, Roger Dubius is laying strong foundations in the Motorsport industry by joining hands with Formula 1 tyre supplier Pirelli, while sharing a piece of victory with its wearers. The Excalibur Spider Pirelli straps are made with rubber inlays from the Pirelli Formula 1 tyres of actual winning vehicles, also featuring the Cinturato intermediate pattern. Taking as much time as it takes to change a tyre at a F1 pit stop (three seconds), the straps comes off and on just as quickly. Within its titanium casing is a self-winding movement of 28,800 bph and a power reserve of up to 60 hours. However, the model is limited to only 88 pieces per colourway, while the crown and bezel are also interchangeable with the brand’s first ever automatic skeleton.

Reputed for producing automobile-inspired racing watches, Tag Heuer’s Monaco collection is another firm favourite for Formula 1 racecar drivers, though its original 1969 design was the world’s first square-case water-resistant automatic chronograph. Its latest edition, powered by the Heuer 02 calibre movement with a reserve of 80 hours, features the same square-form in a masculine 39mm stainless-steel case.

Another classic timepiece embodying the spirit of a racing cars is Hublot Fusion Ferrari GT, made in collaboration with Ferrari’s head designer Flavio Manzoni. Featuring Hublot’s UNICO HUB1280 flyback openwork movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, its design is a brilliant combination between traditional Swiss watchmaking and cutting-edge technology. Created as a limited 500-piece series, it arrives in Titanium, King Gold and 3D carbon. It’s black rubber strap is made of Schedoni leather which is known to be used in Ferrari’s Maranello GT cars, while its dynamic design boasts an intricate skeleton dial.

(Text: Zaira Abbas)

7 stunning dive watch models that blend beautiful form with true functionality

Once upon a (not so long ago) time, dive watches were predominantly tools of necessity. Given the inherent dangers and limitations of the pastime – limited oxygen supply, underwater pressure, restricted visibility – they were vital safety aids that kept divers alive. So, these timepieces historically catered to the unique challenges of the sport. In 1926, Rolex developed the Oyster, the first hermetically-sealed waterproof wristwatch. Six years later, Omega developed the Marine, capable of withstanding depths of up to 135m.

Today, however, such wrist adornments are more often worn as statement pieces rather than underwater assistants. Be that as it may, the world’s leading watchmakers remain dedicated to crafting durable, legible and eminently usable diving chronometers that are as elegant as they are functional. Here, we highlight seven particular standout models worthy of attention.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet

First on our list is Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet, the latest interpretation of its 1956-released Fifty Fathoms dive watch. Kitted out with a full annual calendar complication, it nevertheless maintains its roots as a diving aid, boasting heightened durability with its titanium grade 23 alloy case, as well as an almost industrial all-grey, fully matte look. It’s also equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale to time dives, with the calibre 6654.P self-winding movement churning out a generous 72-hour power reserve.

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco

dive-watch-Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro-gafencu.jpg — Photo: Panerai

Similarly drawing from its rich history is Panerai with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco. While the Submersible only debuted as a solo model in 1998, the design harks back to watches made for the Egyptian Navy back in 1956. Featuring the iconic circle-in-a-square shaped case, it comes fitted with a calibre P.900 movement and can withstand depths of 300m. An olive-green strap rounds out a vintage-inspired utilitarian aesthetic.

Also Read: Make a date with one of these fabulous perpetual calendar watches

Oris Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition

dive-watch-Oris-Aquis-New-York-Harbor-Limited-Edition-gafencu.jpg — Photo: Oris

Swiss-based Oris has also embraced a verdant look for its Aquis NY Harbor Limited Edition. The watchmaker is known for championing environmental sustainability projects across the globe; in this instance, profits from the 2,000-piece release are earmarked for the Billion Oyster Project, an initiative launched in hopes to reseed that number of oysters into New York waters. The watch features a yellowy-green mother-of-pearl dial that’s burnished with super legible Super-LumiNova-coated hour markers and hour and minute hands, all housed in a 41.5mm steel case and powered by an automatic calibre 400 movement.

Richard Mille RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth

For something more outré, Richard Mille unveiled the RM 032 Voiles de Saint Barth at the 11th Les Voiles de St. Barth Richard Mille regatta in April. Characterised by an eye-catching Caribbean blue-on-white Quartz TPT aesthete, it offers optimal water resistance and durability thanks to the grade 5 titanium case middle. Blending a plethora of colours to increase legibility, the over-sized 60-minute counter rotating bezel makes for equally easy viewing. Limited to just 120 pieces, this technical timepiece is certified to withstand pressures to a depth of 300m.

IWC Aquatimer Automatic

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A more minimalist approach comes courtesy of IWC’s latest Aquatimer Automatic, available with either a blue or black dial and the buyer’s choice of rubber strap or steel bracelet. Powered by the brand-new calibre 32111 movement, the 42mm dive watch eschews the traditional external rotating bezel in favour of an internal printed 60-minute scale lining the angled flange of the dial edge, thereby doing away with a secondary crown and minimising the risk of water creeping in.

Also read: Bare-faced Glory: The timeless allure of skeletonised dials

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 4000 — Photo: Rolex

The next entrant, Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, may not be so recent a release as others on our line-up, but it still merits particular mention. Crafted from Rolesor, its triple waterproof system allows this timepiece to withstand waters as much as 1,220m deep. A staggering feat of engineering indeed.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium

That, however, pales in comparison to Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Titanium. As befits the final sub-aquatic timepiece on our list, it serves up an unimaginable water resistance to a depth of 6,000m – a greater drop than from the tallest mountain in Europe. It was this very watch, albeit in a concept form, that was strapped onto the Limiting Factor submarine during its record-breaking dive to 10,925m back in 2019. Painstakingly crafted from sandblasted grade 5 titanium and fitted with an athletic Nato-style strap, this timepiece stylishly represents the very pinnacle of dive watch-making.

Also read: Celebrating the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication

Make a date with one of these fabulous perpetual calendar watches

Purchasing an elaborate timepiece is certainly a hefty investment. Yet, unlike other fleeting luxury indulgences, watches – if properly maintained – can hold if not increase their value. These prime examples of haute horology are also the perfect mementos to bequeath onto future generations. And what better way to ensure your legacy stands the test of time than to sink your cash into a chronometer equipped with the long-lasting perpetual calendar complication.

For the uninitiated, the perpetual calendar keeps hyper-accurate track of the day, date, and month without ever needing to be hand-wound. What’s more, it even takes leap years into account, with the finest such pieces capable of ticking on for centuries without adjustment. Intrigued? Then perhaps these seven standout timepieces below may tickle your fancy …

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar

Blending an athletic appeal and timeless elegance with true aplomb is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris Perpetual Calendar. Housed in a 42mm pink gold case, this latest iteration of the revived Polaris sports watch line sees the brand’s 2013-debuted perpetual calendar calibre movement updated to churn out a lengthier 70-hour power reserve, while the moonphase indicator is now updated to showcase the stars from the southern hemisphere. Four subdials grace the cardinal directions of its blue fascia, showcasing the day, date, month, year and lunar phase.

A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna”

A sleeker interpretation of this classic function comes in the form of German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna”, a chronometer that cleverly uses both sides of its dial to showcase its many intricate complications. Here, the argenté-hued dial features three interlocking hour, minute and second subdials that together track the day, date and month. On the reverse, some elements of the calibre L096.1 movement peek out through the sapphire crystal caseback that is otherwise dominated by a prominent moonphase display.

IWC 100-piece Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Toto Wolff x Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team”

Eschewing traditional colours for a more vibrant hue is IWC’s 100-piece Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Toto Wolff x Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team”, launched ahead of the June Formula One British Grand Prix of which the brand is a proud sponsor. Created to celebrate Toto Wolff – the mastermind behind Mercedes’ record eight consecutive constructors’ titles – its racing heritage is evidenced by the lightweight appeal of a proprietary Ceratanium alloy case, while the dial’s accents have been burnished in the team’s signature Petronas green.

The Naked Watchmaker x Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

Meanwhile, a more vintage vibe is on offer from Fredrique Constant with The Naked Watchmaker x Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition, created in collaboration with educational resource foundation The Naked Watchmaker. Awash in heritage brown, its skeletonised domed dial affords direct views of the in-house FC-775 self-winding perpetual calendar movement, which offers a 38-hour power reserve. Limited to a release of 99 pieces, it comes with a relatively affordable price tag of €9,995.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

Similarly open-worked, albeit in a more attention-grabbing 18K 5N pink gold case, is Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton. An impressive feat of watchmaking, its innovative Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 perpetual calendar movement is wholly skeletonised. What’s more astonishing is the thinness of the complex wristwatch is just a scant 8.1mm. Coming with pink gold straps as standard, buyers can also opt for tool-free changes to blue rubber or blue calf leather options as well.

Glashütte Original’s new Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar

For a more minimalist appeal, consider Glashütte Original’s new Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar, whose galvanised rose opaline dial is punctuated with a bevy of blue touches that allow easy viewing of the day, date and month apertures as well as the moonphase display at 8 o’clock. Fitted with a staggering 100-hour power reserve, sleek blue alligator leather straps round out the allure of this 100-piece release.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374-300P

The final entrant on this list of prime perpetual calendar watches is none other than Patek Philippe. Its Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374-300P is, simply put, an outré affair, prominently garnished with a plethora (241 to be exact) of sparkling baguette-cut diamonds along its case and bezel. Not only does its elegant blue dial proudly showcase the complex mechanism in all its glory, its self-winding calibre R 27 Q movement is also equipped with a charming chiming complication. A masterclass in the art of blending haute horlogerie with the watchmaker’s craft, it’s an apt new chapter for the legendary watchmaker who created the first-ever perpetual calendar wristwatch.

Bare-faced Glory: The timeless allure of skeletonised dials

Even though they seem the very epitome of contemporary design, skeletonised dials have been around for centuries. Indeed, they date back to the eighteenth century when André Charles Caron – clockmaker to King Louis XV of France – first eschewed all the window dressings of a timepiece to afford clear views of the intricate machinery beneath. Since then, the open-worked aesthetic has charmed haute horology enthusiasts the world over, be it to exemplify a minimalist theme or spotlight avant-garde stylings. Below, we highlight seven superlative new examples of this transparent motif.

Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise

First up is Cartier’s 100-piece Privé Tank Chinoise, the latest avatar of the iconic design first launched exactly a century ago in 1922. As its name suggests, it embodies a distinct Oriental allure. Ringed by a diamond-studded bezel and housed in a platinum case, its fascia is dominated by vertical and horizontal bars inspired by the traditional architecture of ancient Chinese temples. Peeking out beneath these stripes are the inner workings of the brand’s new 9627 MC manual-winding movement, the elaborate stylings of which can be better viewed through its transparent caseback.

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

Next to the table is the ultra sleek Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton from Swiss manufacture H. Moser & Cie. Blending minimalism and extravagance in equal measure, graceful anthracite PVD-finished bridges hold the hour-and-minute Funky Blue fumé domed subdial at 12 o’clock, contrasted beautifully with the timepiece’s pièce de résistance – a one-minute flying tourbillon – on the bottom half of its fascia. Visible underneath is the automatic calibre HMC 811 movement, which churns out a generous 72-hour power reserve.

Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58

From Hamburg-headquartered Montblanc comes the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58. Available in a limited release of 58 pieces, this blue-on-steel creation pays tribute to the maison’s historic Minerva manufacture – a famed watchmaking facility known for its specialisation in precision-engineered chronographs and folded into the brand in 2006 – by ‘unveiling’ one of its handmade movements beneath its open-worked dial, in this instance, the MB 16.29 calibre. The traditional transparent caseback, meanwhile, has been replaced with a beautiful engraved relief of the aforementioned Villeret factory.

Piaget Polo Skeleton

For a more slimmed down finish, though, look no further than Piaget’s latest Polo Skeleton. Unsurprisingly for a label that holds several records in crafting hyper-thin designs, its latest offering boasts one of the world’s thinnest mechanical movements: the skeletonised 1200S1, which measures a scant 2.4mm. Injecting an element of sparkle to proceedings, its 42mm white gold case is graced with a staggering 1747 brilliant-cut diamonds across its dial, bezel, case and bracelet. Deftly fusing high-end watchmaking with haute joaillerie know-how in one attractive package, this is a timepiece that will surely ensnare any passing gaze.

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire

Opting for a wholly transparent aesthetic, meanwhile, is Chopard’s new LUC Full Strike Sapphire. To fully enhance the chiming function of this minute repeater watch, its entire case has been fashioned from a translucent sapphire case, with its crystal gongs similarly crafted from that same material. At the heart of its skeletonised fascia beats the 533-part calibre LUC 08.01-L movement that boasts five new patents to achieve the clarity of its sounding of the hours, quarters and minutes.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier EX0953

A more outré example of the open-worked motif comes courtesy of Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Monobalancier EX0953, whose sharp geometric lines and sand-blasted finishing gives it an almost industrial appeal. Housed in a 42mm Eon gold case ringed with 60 round-cut diamonds, it affords direct views of the RD 720SQ calibre movement underneath. The ruby accents of the mechanism, meanwhile, are perfectly accentuated with purple calf-leather straps.

Rebellion T-500 Titanium

The final entrant on our list is none other than the T-500 Titanium by Swiss watchmaker Rebellion. Exuding an undeniable avant-garde aura, this rectangular timepiece’s see-through dial perfectly displays its unusual timekeeping mechanism. Under the curved sapphire dome, the 380-part manual winding vertical movement and six barrels that charge its jaw-dropping 420-hour energy reserve is on full display. Further underscoring its race car-esque appeal, the traditional hour-and-minute indicators have been eschewed in favour of two parallel rollers at the centre of its fascia. Available in the buyer’s choice of blue, red, orange, green or black, it’s the perfect choice for watch enthusiasts enamoured with a bit of experimental horology.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Dual Exordium: Blancpain’s new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet

Putting our attention towards a timepiece that boasts warmth, comfort and utility, Swiss luxury horologist Blancpain introduces two new faces for the Fifty Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet that presents itself as a lesson in style and functionality.

Bringing together two emblematic Blancpain universes into one model by combining the maison’s Bathyscaphe sporting DNA with its professionally minded Fifty Fathoms, two become one in a noble redesign.

blancpain-new-fifty-fathoms-bathyscaphe-quantieme-complet-titanium-case-anthracite-dial

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Looking back, the Bathyscaphe line has seen several redesign since its inception in 2013. While its classic form remains largely unchanged, this new model comes measures 43 mm and arrives in either a red gold case with a sunburst blue-gradient dial or a 23-grade titanium case with matching anthracite dial.

The blue dial is framed by a unidirectional rotating bezel with a brilliant blue ceramic inlay and regal Ceragold™ time scale. Meanwhile, the titanium version showcases subtle shades of grey on its matt athracite dial, elevated by gold hour-markers, rhodium-plated hands and moon, and framed with satin-brushed anthracite ceramic bezel and graduated Liquidmetal™ scale.

Featuring a day of the week, month and date indicator, and a moon phase positioned in a large window at 6 o’clock, this three-handed chronograph, which is waterproof up to approximately 300 m, serves the perfect utility watch for the active gentleman looking to sport a timepiece that is both functional and stylish.

Powered by 6654.P self-winding movement, this chronometer is protected by a security system that enables the wearer to handle each indication at any time without any risk to the movement. This is a unique feature that stands out among the slew of other calendar watches available on the market.

For more information, please visit www.blancpain.com

Time Warp: Six of the best – and quirkiest – watch dials on the market

Choosing a timepiece with a point of difference is a way to make a statement about your own personality. There are many aspects of a watch that can set you apart from your contemporaries, but nothing makes a statement quite as strikingly as a unique dial.

Jaquet Droz is a watchmaker that has long prided itself on creating watches that not only have exemplary technical specs, but also boast collections that have elegant and vivid dials that are worthy of being called works of art in their own right. True originals. The maison’s Relief Petite Heure Minute Tiger wristwatch is a case in point. Emanating power and masculinity, this bold creation has 18-karat white gold and opal dial, black onyx subdial with carefully hand-engraved and hand-painted 18-karat white gold tiger relief appliques.

The case (also 18-karat white gold) houses 144 baguette-cut diamonds and crown set with a diamond, with 28 jewels and 2.15 carats in total. It has a power reserve of 68 hours, is 41 mm in diameter and water resistant to 30 metres. A rolled-edge hand-made black alligator wristband completes the deal. The Relief Tiger also comes in an 18-karat red gold version.

More feminine, but still in a similar vein, is the Lady 8 Flower series. Featured next page is the iteration with the grand feu enamel dial. The 18-karat white gold case set boasts a to-die-for 114 diamonds, totalling 1.40 carats. There is a mechanical opening flower automaton movement and push-button automaton triggering mechanism. Meticulously hand-engraved petals in 18-karat white gold are prominent and there is a rotation of a briolette blue sapphire (0.24 carat) in both directions. The buckle is an 18-karat white gold folding clasp set with 47 dazzling diamonds.

Sticking with the theme of artistic horological creations with unique dials is this sublime offering from Franck Muller, in collaboration with acclaimed artist, Hom Nguyen. The two have joined forces to produce this exceptional timepiece: the Cintrée Curvex Double Mystery with Tourbillon. Nguyen is a French painter of Vietnamese origin who is famed for creating portraits in a figurative style – clearly depicted in the watchface.

In place of hands, time is shown by rotating discs with the brand’s trademark double mystery complication. Completly hand-drawn and assembled in the purest watchmaking tradition, this timepiece is equipped with a manual winding mechanical movement and boasts a power reserve of 60 hours.

Also from Frank Muller and distinctly more ladylike – but still retaining a certain degree of quirkiness – is the Vangaurd Lady Heart. Playfully replacing the numbers ‘3’ through ‘7’ with a burst of tastefully designed hearts, this watch incorporates dynamic and graceful features. The collection is a tribute to femininity, with a poignant silhouette and a poetic dial. Shown on previous page are the red and pink iterations.

This month’s offering by Roger Dubuis takes us way back in time to the days of merry old England, the Knights of the Round Table MT Gold is as playful as it is historically accurate – and a beautifully crafted timepiece to boot – with each number on the dial replaced with a mini-sculpture of one of the aforementioned knights of King Arthur’s fellowship, from Lancelot to all the others.

The main material of the dial is gold and a matching case with sapphire crystal with a special anti-reflective coating open case back with a sapphire crystal pink gold bezel with a saphhire crystal crown with Murano glass. The clasp comes with a gold cover, with titanium blades – triple folding – interchangeable with an ingenious crystal release system.

Rounding out our set of six is the Tag Heuer Monaco V4. This racey little number was made famous when it first appeared on the wrist of action-man film star Steve McQueen duirng his appearnce in the 1970 film Le Mans. This revolutionary watch features four barrels mounted on ball bearings, pinions and belts. The timepiece displays its movement through its anti-reflective sapphire glass – revealing the intricate design features within, comprising tungsten ingot, linear mass and two pairs of barrels, that are mounted in parallel and cleverly connected by belts.

Sky’s the limit for Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual watch collection

On 30 May 2022, Rolex unveils its latest creations. The watchmaker subsequently invited Gafencu to public showing of its fine new range in Hong Kong on 31 May. One of the first things you notice when you pick up a Rolex wristwatch is the heft. The sturdiness a testament to consummate craftsmanship.

Rolex-Skys-limit-new-watch-collection-Air-King — Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King

The first watch we examined was the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King. This superb timepiece celebrates the pioneers of aviation and encourages those that wear it to take command of their own destiny. The dial inspired by aircraft instruments but the 2022 iteration also it incorporates new features. The dial is now easier to read and achieves better balance due to the addition of a ‘0’ before the ‘5’ on the minutes scale, while a crown guard and straight sides have also been included. These evolutions confirm the Air-King’s place among the brand’s Professional models.

Rolex-Skys-limit-new-watch-collection-GMT-Master II — Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

The next was based on a Rolex classic – the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Since its creation in 1955, the GMT-Master has seen some of the greatest moments in aviation history – as varied as the first intercontinental flights to world speed records to Concorde testing. Feats that are underscore human endeavour as much as they are to technological excellence. The GMT-Master II builds on this legacy.

This new iteration of the timepiece incorporated several innovations. It required moving the winding crown to the left side of the watch case and the date aperture to 9 o’clock, as well as modifying the date disc – adjustments that also led to greater precision in the testing process carried out during final controls. The Cerachrom bezel insert is in green and black, a striking colour combination that is exclusive to this watch.

Rolex-Skys-limit-new-watch-Yacht-Master-40 — Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40

The final timepiece put forward for our consideration was the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40. The new Yacht-Master 40 harnesses elements of the ocean, the sky and the sun. The bezel, set with diamonds and sapphires in hues of blue, silver and pink, is inspired by the aurora borealis and the first blush of dawn. The palette of hues is accentuated by the 46 diamonds that adorn the lugs and crown guard. An absolute stunner.

Celebrating the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication

The moon has inspired artists and artisans for countless generations, and those plying their crafts in haute horology are no exception. Indeed, the first watch mechanism that tracked the changing lunar phases was introduced by Patek Philippe nearly a century ago, in 1925, with Rolex following suit in 1949 with the Reference 8171.

For the uninitiated, a moon-phase complication precisely tracks a lunar cycle from new moon to new moon – a period of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and three seconds. Watchmakers display each phase through a rotating disk that displays the illumination of the moon as it appears from Earth in real time. We highlight seven standouts that showcase this mesmerising lunar-tracking complication.

Breguet Reine de Naples 8905

First to the table is the femme-focused Reine de Naples 8905 from Breguet, which features an unusual oval-shaped 18K-white-gold case neatly ringed with a diamond-studded bezel. Its luminous white mother-of-pearl dial features an hours-and-minutes subdial at six o’clock, while the moon-phase indicator graces the top of its oblong fascia. A red leather strap completes the chic appeal of a release limited to just 28 pieces.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-vous Dazzling Moon Lazura

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu Rendez-Vous Dazzling Moon Lazura watch — (Photo courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre)

Next up is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-vous Dazzling Moon Lazura, replete with a stunning blue lapis lazuli dial that perfectly captures the hue of a clear night sky. The mother-of-pearl moon rotates through an aperture at six o’clock, which is further encircled by a star chart that underscores the model’s lunar inspirations. Powered by a self-winding Manufacture Calibre 935 movement, the large moon-phase indicator need not be adjusted for 972 years – a true haute-horological feat.

Montblanc Star Legacy Moonphase

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu Montblanc star legacy watch — (Photo courtesy of Montblanc)

Adopting a subtler colour scheme is Montblanc’s Star Legacy Moonphase, whose 42mm-stainless-steel case not only displays the phases of the moon, but also the day and date. Interestingly, its Breguet-style Arabic numerals – reminiscent of the brand’s historic Minerva pocket watches – have been lined with a unique railway minute track that signals the seconds via a red-tipped hand.

Also Read: The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu Ulysse Nardin Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle complete openface watch — (Photo courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)

Much lauded for the myriad complications that grace its precision-engineered designs, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface. Here, the open-worked dial is not only punctuated with a moon-phase indicator, but also tracks the day, date and month. Encased in either 18K 5N pink gold or 18K white gold, and visible beneath the various displays, is the impressive Calibre 2460 QCL/2 movement, which develops a 40-hour power reserve.

Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu Hermes Squelette lune watch — (Photo courtesy of Hermes)

Hermès’ new Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune – which, as its name suggests, offers a super slim design – similarly utilisies a skeletonised design. Powered by the self-winding Hermès H1953 Manufacture movement, its moon-phase indicator at six o’clock displays not one, but two oscillating moons. Crafted from ultra-lightweight titanium and boasting an airy architecture with contrasting matte and gloss finishes, it encompasses an almost industrial aesthetic.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

Elsewhere, embracing an all-black look is the Blast Moonstruck from Ulysse Nardin. The star turn here is undoubtedly the Moonstruck, an astronomical complication which not only follows the lunar cycle but also tracks the sun’s visible trajectory across a representation of Earth that forms the centre of its mineral-black dial. This geocentric design also features a dual-time mechanism. Crafted from black ceramic and black DLC-treated titanium, this 45mm creation can be paired with a choice of alligator leather, velvet or rubber strap in, yes, black.

De Bethune DB25 GMT Starry Varius

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu DeBethune DB25_GMT watch — (Photo courtesy of DeBethune)

Taking the final spot in our round-up of standout moon phase-fronted designs is De Bethune’s avant-garde DB25 GMT Starry Varius. Eschewing typical dual-time dial layouts, this GMT watch measures the home time, local time – which can be set at the crown in both directions – and date through three concentric rings of differing depths. The ring closest to the hour markers indicates the home time, with day/night hours burnished in gold and black respectively.

Interestingly, rather than giving the moon-phase indicator its own subdial, this complication takes the form of a microsphere that indicates time in the centre circle. An impressive technical feat, the 3D revolving moon is something of a signature for the brand, as well as a highly innovative reimagining of this beloved complication classic.

(Text: Tenzing Thoundup)

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