Make a date with one of these fabulous perpetual calendar watches

Purchasing an elaborate timepiece is certainly a hefty investment. Yet, unlike other fleeting luxury indulgences, watches – if properly maintained – can hold if not increase their value. These prime examples of haute horology are also the perfect mementos to bequeath onto future generations. And what better way to ensure your legacy stands the test of time than to sink your cash into a chronometer equipped with the long-lasting perpetual calendar complication.

For the uninitiated, the perpetual calendar keeps hyper-accurate track of the day, date, and month without ever needing to be hand-wound. What’s more, it even takes leap years into account, with the finest such pieces capable of ticking on for centuries without adjustment. Intrigued? Then perhaps these seven standout timepieces below may tickle your fancy …

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar

Blending an athletic appeal and timeless elegance with true aplomb is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris Perpetual Calendar. Housed in a 42mm pink gold case, this latest iteration of the revived Polaris sports watch line sees the brand’s 2013-debuted perpetual calendar calibre movement updated to churn out a lengthier 70-hour power reserve, while the moonphase indicator is now updated to showcase the stars from the southern hemisphere. Four subdials grace the cardinal directions of its blue fascia, showcasing the day, date, month, year and lunar phase.

A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna”

A sleeker interpretation of this classic function comes in the form of German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna”, a chronometer that cleverly uses both sides of its dial to showcase its many intricate complications. Here, the argenté-hued dial features three interlocking hour, minute and second subdials that together track the day, date and month. On the reverse, some elements of the calibre L096.1 movement peek out through the sapphire crystal caseback that is otherwise dominated by a prominent moonphase display.

IWC 100-piece Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Toto Wolff x Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team”

Eschewing traditional colours for a more vibrant hue is IWC’s 100-piece Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Toto Wolff x Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team”, launched ahead of the June Formula One British Grand Prix of which the brand is a proud sponsor. Created to celebrate Toto Wolff – the mastermind behind Mercedes’ record eight consecutive constructors’ titles – its racing heritage is evidenced by the lightweight appeal of a proprietary Ceratanium alloy case, while the dial’s accents have been burnished in the team’s signature Petronas green.

The Naked Watchmaker x Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

Meanwhile, a more vintage vibe is on offer from Fredrique Constant with The Naked Watchmaker x Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition, created in collaboration with educational resource foundation The Naked Watchmaker. Awash in heritage brown, its skeletonised domed dial affords direct views of the in-house FC-775 self-winding perpetual calendar movement, which offers a 38-hour power reserve. Limited to a release of 99 pieces, it comes with a relatively affordable price tag of €9,995.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

Similarly open-worked, albeit in a more attention-grabbing 18K 5N pink gold case, is Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton. An impressive feat of watchmaking, its innovative Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 perpetual calendar movement is wholly skeletonised. What’s more astonishing is the thinness of the complex wristwatch is just a scant 8.1mm. Coming with pink gold straps as standard, buyers can also opt for tool-free changes to blue rubber or blue calf leather options as well.

Glashütte Original’s new Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar

For a more minimalist appeal, consider Glashütte Original’s new Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar, whose galvanised rose opaline dial is punctuated with a bevy of blue touches that allow easy viewing of the day, date and month apertures as well as the moonphase display at 8 o’clock. Fitted with a staggering 100-hour power reserve, sleek blue alligator leather straps round out the allure of this 100-piece release.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374-300P

The final entrant on this list of prime perpetual calendar watches is none other than Patek Philippe. Its Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374-300P is, simply put, an outré affair, prominently garnished with a plethora (241 to be exact) of sparkling baguette-cut diamonds along its case and bezel. Not only does its elegant blue dial proudly showcase the complex mechanism in all its glory, its self-winding calibre R 27 Q movement is also equipped with a charming chiming complication. A masterclass in the art of blending haute horlogerie with the watchmaker’s craft, it’s an apt new chapter for the legendary watchmaker who created the first-ever perpetual calendar wristwatch.

Bare-faced Glory: The timeless allure of skeletonised dials

Even though they seem the very epitome of contemporary design, skeletonised dials have been around for centuries. Indeed, they date back to the eighteenth century when André Charles Caron – clockmaker to King Louis XV of France – first eschewed all the window dressings of a timepiece to afford clear views of the intricate machinery beneath. Since then, the open-worked aesthetic has charmed haute horology enthusiasts the world over, be it to exemplify a minimalist theme or spotlight avant-garde stylings. Below, we highlight seven superlative new examples of this transparent motif.

Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise

First up is Cartier’s 100-piece Privé Tank Chinoise, the latest avatar of the iconic design first launched exactly a century ago in 1922. As its name suggests, it embodies a distinct Oriental allure. Ringed by a diamond-studded bezel and housed in a platinum case, its fascia is dominated by vertical and horizontal bars inspired by the traditional architecture of ancient Chinese temples. Peeking out beneath these stripes are the inner workings of the brand’s new 9627 MC manual-winding movement, the elaborate stylings of which can be better viewed through its transparent caseback.

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

Next to the table is the ultra sleek Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton from Swiss manufacture H. Moser & Cie. Blending minimalism and extravagance in equal measure, graceful anthracite PVD-finished bridges hold the hour-and-minute Funky Blue fumé domed subdial at 12 o’clock, contrasted beautifully with the timepiece’s pièce de résistance – a one-minute flying tourbillon – on the bottom half of its fascia. Visible underneath is the automatic calibre HMC 811 movement, which churns out a generous 72-hour power reserve.

Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58

From Hamburg-headquartered Montblanc comes the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE58. Available in a limited release of 58 pieces, this blue-on-steel creation pays tribute to the maison’s historic Minerva manufacture – a famed watchmaking facility known for its specialisation in precision-engineered chronographs and folded into the brand in 2006 – by ‘unveiling’ one of its handmade movements beneath its open-worked dial, in this instance, the MB 16.29 calibre. The traditional transparent caseback, meanwhile, has been replaced with a beautiful engraved relief of the aforementioned Villeret factory.

Piaget Polo Skeleton

For a more slimmed down finish, though, look no further than Piaget’s latest Polo Skeleton. Unsurprisingly for a label that holds several records in crafting hyper-thin designs, its latest offering boasts one of the world’s thinnest mechanical movements: the skeletonised 1200S1, which measures a scant 2.4mm. Injecting an element of sparkle to proceedings, its 42mm white gold case is graced with a staggering 1747 brilliant-cut diamonds across its dial, bezel, case and bracelet. Deftly fusing high-end watchmaking with haute joaillerie know-how in one attractive package, this is a timepiece that will surely ensnare any passing gaze.

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire

Opting for a wholly transparent aesthetic, meanwhile, is Chopard’s new LUC Full Strike Sapphire. To fully enhance the chiming function of this minute repeater watch, its entire case has been fashioned from a translucent sapphire case, with its crystal gongs similarly crafted from that same material. At the heart of its skeletonised fascia beats the 533-part calibre LUC 08.01-L movement that boasts five new patents to achieve the clarity of its sounding of the hours, quarters and minutes.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier EX0953

A more outré example of the open-worked motif comes courtesy of Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Monobalancier EX0953, whose sharp geometric lines and sand-blasted finishing gives it an almost industrial appeal. Housed in a 42mm Eon gold case ringed with 60 round-cut diamonds, it affords direct views of the RD 720SQ calibre movement underneath. The ruby accents of the mechanism, meanwhile, are perfectly accentuated with purple calf-leather straps.

Rebellion T-500 Titanium

The final entrant on our list is none other than the T-500 Titanium by Swiss watchmaker Rebellion. Exuding an undeniable avant-garde aura, this rectangular timepiece’s see-through dial perfectly displays its unusual timekeeping mechanism. Under the curved sapphire dome, the 380-part manual winding vertical movement and six barrels that charge its jaw-dropping 420-hour energy reserve is on full display. Further underscoring its race car-esque appeal, the traditional hour-and-minute indicators have been eschewed in favour of two parallel rollers at the centre of its fascia. Available in the buyer’s choice of blue, red, orange, green or black, it’s the perfect choice for watch enthusiasts enamoured with a bit of experimental horology.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Dual Exordium: Blancpain’s new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet

Putting our attention towards a timepiece that boasts warmth, comfort and utility, Swiss luxury horologist Blancpain introduces two new faces for the Fifty Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet that presents itself as a lesson in style and functionality.

Bringing together two emblematic Blancpain universes into one model by combining the maison’s Bathyscaphe sporting DNA with its professionally minded Fifty Fathoms, two become one in a noble redesign.

blancpain-new-fifty-fathoms-bathyscaphe-quantieme-complet-red-gold-case-sunburst-blue-gradient-dial

blancpain-new-fifty-fathoms-bathyscaphe-quantieme-complet-titanium-case-anthracite-dial

Looking back, the Bathyscaphe line has seen several redesign since its inception in 2013. While its classic form remains largely unchanged, this new model comes measures 43 mm and arrives in either a red gold case with a sunburst blue-gradient dial or a 23-grade titanium case with matching anthracite dial.

The blue dial is framed by a unidirectional rotating bezel with a brilliant blue ceramic inlay and regal Ceragold™ time scale. Meanwhile, the titanium version showcases subtle shades of grey on its matt athracite dial, elevated by gold hour-markers, rhodium-plated hands and moon, and framed with satin-brushed anthracite ceramic bezel and graduated Liquidmetal™ scale.

Featuring a day of the week, month and date indicator, and a moon phase positioned in a large window at 6 o’clock, this three-handed chronograph, which is waterproof up to approximately 300 m, serves the perfect utility watch for the active gentleman looking to sport a timepiece that is both functional and stylish.

Powered by 6654.P self-winding movement, this chronometer is protected by a security system that enables the wearer to handle each indication at any time without any risk to the movement. This is a unique feature that stands out among the slew of other calendar watches available on the market.

For more information, please visit www.blancpain.com

Time Warp: Six of the best – and quirkiest – watch dials on the market

Choosing a timepiece with a point of difference is a way to make a statement about your own personality. There are many aspects of a watch that can set you apart from your contemporaries, but nothing makes a statement quite as strikingly as a unique dial.

Jaquet Droz is a watchmaker that has long prided itself on creating watches that not only have exemplary technical specs, but also boast collections that have elegant and vivid dials that are worthy of being called works of art in their own right. True originals. The maison’s Relief Petite Heure Minute Tiger wristwatch is a case in point. Emanating power and masculinity, this bold creation has 18-karat white gold and opal dial, black onyx subdial with carefully hand-engraved and hand-painted 18-karat white gold tiger relief appliques.

The case (also 18-karat white gold) houses 144 baguette-cut diamonds and crown set with a diamond, with 28 jewels and 2.15 carats in total. It has a power reserve of 68 hours, is 41 mm in diameter and water resistant to 30 metres. A rolled-edge hand-made black alligator wristband completes the deal. The Relief Tiger also comes in an 18-karat red gold version.

More feminine, but still in a similar vein, is the Lady 8 Flower series. Featured next page is the iteration with the grand feu enamel dial. The 18-karat white gold case set boasts a to-die-for 114 diamonds, totalling 1.40 carats. There is a mechanical opening flower automaton movement and push-button automaton triggering mechanism. Meticulously hand-engraved petals in 18-karat white gold are prominent and there is a rotation of a briolette blue sapphire (0.24 carat) in both directions. The buckle is an 18-karat white gold folding clasp set with 47 dazzling diamonds.

Sticking with the theme of artistic horological creations with unique dials is this sublime offering from Franck Muller, in collaboration with acclaimed artist, Hom Nguyen. The two have joined forces to produce this exceptional timepiece: the Cintrée Curvex Double Mystery with Tourbillon. Nguyen is a French painter of Vietnamese origin who is famed for creating portraits in a figurative style – clearly depicted in the watchface.

In place of hands, time is shown by rotating discs with the brand’s trademark double mystery complication. Completly hand-drawn and assembled in the purest watchmaking tradition, this timepiece is equipped with a manual winding mechanical movement and boasts a power reserve of 60 hours.

Also from Frank Muller and distinctly more ladylike – but still retaining a certain degree of quirkiness – is the Vangaurd Lady Heart. Playfully replacing the numbers ‘3’ through ‘7’ with a burst of tastefully designed hearts, this watch incorporates dynamic and graceful features. The collection is a tribute to femininity, with a poignant silhouette and a poetic dial. Shown on previous page are the red and pink iterations.

This month’s offering by Roger Dubuis takes us way back in time to the days of merry old England, the Knights of the Round Table MT Gold is as playful as it is historically accurate – and a beautifully crafted timepiece to boot – with each number on the dial replaced with a mini-sculpture of one of the aforementioned knights of King Arthur’s fellowship, from Lancelot to all the others.

The main material of the dial is gold and a matching case with sapphire crystal with a special anti-reflective coating open case back with a sapphire crystal pink gold bezel with a saphhire crystal crown with Murano glass. The clasp comes with a gold cover, with titanium blades – triple folding – interchangeable with an ingenious crystal release system.

Rounding out our set of six is the Tag Heuer Monaco V4. This racey little number was made famous when it first appeared on the wrist of action-man film star Steve McQueen duirng his appearnce in the 1970 film Le Mans. This revolutionary watch features four barrels mounted on ball bearings, pinions and belts. The timepiece displays its movement through its anti-reflective sapphire glass – revealing the intricate design features within, comprising tungsten ingot, linear mass and two pairs of barrels, that are mounted in parallel and cleverly connected by belts.

Sky’s the limit for Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual watch collection

On 30 May 2022, Rolex unveils its latest creations. The watchmaker subsequently invited Gafencu to public showing of its fine new range in Hong Kong on 31 May. One of the first things you notice when you pick up a Rolex wristwatch is the heft. The sturdiness a testament to consummate craftsmanship.

Rolex-Skys-limit-new-watch-collection-Air-King — Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King

The first watch we examined was the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King. This superb timepiece celebrates the pioneers of aviation and encourages those that wear it to take command of their own destiny. The dial inspired by aircraft instruments but the 2022 iteration also it incorporates new features. The dial is now easier to read and achieves better balance due to the addition of a ‘0’ before the ‘5’ on the minutes scale, while a crown guard and straight sides have also been included. These evolutions confirm the Air-King’s place among the brand’s Professional models.

Rolex-Skys-limit-new-watch-collection-GMT-Master II — Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

The next was based on a Rolex classic – the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Since its creation in 1955, the GMT-Master has seen some of the greatest moments in aviation history – as varied as the first intercontinental flights to world speed records to Concorde testing. Feats that are underscore human endeavour as much as they are to technological excellence. The GMT-Master II builds on this legacy.

This new iteration of the timepiece incorporated several innovations. It required moving the winding crown to the left side of the watch case and the date aperture to 9 o’clock, as well as modifying the date disc – adjustments that also led to greater precision in the testing process carried out during final controls. The Cerachrom bezel insert is in green and black, a striking colour combination that is exclusive to this watch.

Rolex-Skys-limit-new-watch-Yacht-Master-40 — Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40

The final timepiece put forward for our consideration was the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40. The new Yacht-Master 40 harnesses elements of the ocean, the sky and the sun. The bezel, set with diamonds and sapphires in hues of blue, silver and pink, is inspired by the aurora borealis and the first blush of dawn. The palette of hues is accentuated by the 46 diamonds that adorn the lugs and crown guard. An absolute stunner.

Celebrating the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication

The moon has inspired artists and artisans for countless generations, and those plying their crafts in haute horology are no exception. Indeed, the first watch mechanism that tracked the changing lunar phases was introduced by Patek Philippe nearly a century ago, in 1925, with Rolex following suit in 1949 with the Reference 8171.

For the uninitiated, a moon-phase complication precisely tracks a lunar cycle from new moon to new moon – a period of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and three seconds. Watchmakers display each phase through a rotating disk that displays the illumination of the moon as it appears from Earth in real time. We highlight seven standouts that showcase this mesmerising lunar-tracking complication.

Breguet Reine de Naples 8905

First to the table is the femme-focused Reine de Naples 8905 from Breguet, which features an unusual oval-shaped 18K-white-gold case neatly ringed with a diamond-studded bezel. Its luminous white mother-of-pearl dial features an hours-and-minutes subdial at six o’clock, while the moon-phase indicator graces the top of its oblong fascia. A red leather strap completes the chic appeal of a release limited to just 28 pieces.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-vous Dazzling Moon Lazura

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu Rendez-Vous Dazzling Moon Lazura watch — (Photo courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre)

Next up is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-vous Dazzling Moon Lazura, replete with a stunning blue lapis lazuli dial that perfectly captures the hue of a clear night sky. The mother-of-pearl moon rotates through an aperture at six o’clock, which is further encircled by a star chart that underscores the model’s lunar inspirations. Powered by a self-winding Manufacture Calibre 935 movement, the large moon-phase indicator need not be adjusted for 972 years – a true haute-horological feat.

Montblanc Star Legacy Moonphase

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu Montblanc star legacy watch — (Photo courtesy of Montblanc)

Adopting a subtler colour scheme is Montblanc’s Star Legacy Moonphase, whose 42mm-stainless-steel case not only displays the phases of the moon, but also the day and date. Interestingly, its Breguet-style Arabic numerals – reminiscent of the brand’s historic Minerva pocket watches – have been lined with a unique railway minute track that signals the seconds via a red-tipped hand.

Also Read: The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu Ulysse Nardin Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle complete openface watch — (Photo courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)

Much lauded for the myriad complications that grace its precision-engineered designs, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface. Here, the open-worked dial is not only punctuated with a moon-phase indicator, but also tracks the day, date and month. Encased in either 18K 5N pink gold or 18K white gold, and visible beneath the various displays, is the impressive Calibre 2460 QCL/2 movement, which develops a 40-hour power reserve.

Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu Hermes Squelette lune watch — (Photo courtesy of Hermes)

Hermès’ new Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune – which, as its name suggests, offers a super slim design – similarly utilisies a skeletonised design. Powered by the self-winding Hermès H1953 Manufacture movement, its moon-phase indicator at six o’clock displays not one, but two oscillating moons. Crafted from ultra-lightweight titanium and boasting an airy architecture with contrasting matte and gloss finishes, it encompasses an almost industrial aesthetic.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

Elsewhere, embracing an all-black look is the Blast Moonstruck from Ulysse Nardin. The star turn here is undoubtedly the Moonstruck, an astronomical complication which not only follows the lunar cycle but also tracks the sun’s visible trajectory across a representation of Earth that forms the centre of its mineral-black dial. This geocentric design also features a dual-time mechanism. Crafted from black ceramic and black DLC-treated titanium, this 45mm creation can be paired with a choice of alligator leather, velvet or rubber strap in, yes, black.

De Bethune DB25 GMT Starry Varius

New watches that celebrate the timeless allure of the moon-phase complication gafencu DeBethune DB25_GMT watch — (Photo courtesy of DeBethune)

Taking the final spot in our round-up of standout moon phase-fronted designs is De Bethune’s avant-garde DB25 GMT Starry Varius. Eschewing typical dual-time dial layouts, this GMT watch measures the home time, local time – which can be set at the crown in both directions – and date through three concentric rings of differing depths. The ring closest to the hour markers indicates the home time, with day/night hours burnished in gold and black respectively.

Interestingly, rather than giving the moon-phase indicator its own subdial, this complication takes the form of a microsphere that indicates time in the centre circle. An impressive technical feat, the 3D revolving moon is something of a signature for the brand, as well as a highly innovative reimagining of this beloved complication classic.

(Text: Tenzing Thoundup)

Also Read: Buyer’s Guide: 7 impressive hyper-accurate tourbillon watches

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

Once known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Watches and Wonders is undoubtedly one of the most hotly anticipated watch fairs each year. For its first 2022 outing – held in Geneva earlier this month – 38 internationally acclaimed brands showcased their latest products to almost 22,000 visitors. Celebrating the spirit of innovation and precision engineering, hundreds of watches were on display, with the seven below deserving special mention.

Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_Cartier_Masse mysterieuse — (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

First on our list is Cartier’s Masse Mystérieuse, a stunningly sleek skeletonised design. Crafted from 950 platinum, this innovative watch is a study in minimalism, with half of its open-worked fascia remaining wholly transparent, while the other half reveals the inner workings of the Calibre 9801 MC automatic movement floating underneath. Adding a splash of colour to proceedings is the ruby cabochon crown, while a charcoal grey alligator leather strap completes its almost industrial appeal.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Similarly open-worked is Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The brand is known for crafting super-slim designs – it holds several records for the thinnest timepieces in existence – and this new creation is a tribute to a model first presented four years ago that measures a scant two millimetres thick. To deliver this streamlined look, Piaget has fused the traditional four-layer structure (bezel and crystal, dial, movement and caseback) into one complex construct. Elsewhere, several touches nod to the exact moment this watch was dreamt up.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290

Achieving different heights of invention, Montblanc has crafted a timepiece to withstand some of Earth’s harshest conditions – atop Mount Everest. The 44mm titanium case of the 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290 is literally devoid of all oxygen in a bid to avoid fogging and oxidation at extreme altitudes and sub-zero temperatures. Then there’s the bidirectional bezel, which marks the cardinal points to ensure climbers keep their bearings. To prove that this isn’t just all promotional hype to boost sales, the brand has partnered with acclaimed Nepalese mountaineer Nimal Purja – scaler of the world’s 14 highest peaks in just six months and six days – who will wear the watch on his next Everest ascent.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht_Master 40

Rolex’s new gem-set Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 is inspired by the multitudinous colours of the aurora borealis. Equipped with a 40mm waterproof Oyster case in white gold, the latest avatar of this iconic timepiece comes burnished with the cutting-edge calibre 3235 movement and has been paired with the latest Oysterflex bracelet for optimum comfort and durability. A dazzling design, it’s sure to ensnare any passing gaze thanks to the shimmering blue, grey and pink diamonds and sapphires that stud its bezel.

Patek Philippe Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_patek_philippe_antiplano_ultimate_concept — (Photo courtesy of Patek Philippe)

Also treading a precious path, Patek Philippe has unveiled the new Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time. Dominated by an all-green motif, this 36mm vintage-inspired creation sees its rose-gold bezel and buckle adorned with 62 and 27 diamonds respectively for a glimmering allure. The self-winding Calibre 240 HU movement, in addition to tracking home time, allows users to view all 24 time zones simultaneously in a ring around its dial – a convenient feature for the post-covid jet-setting fashionistas indeed.

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire

Gentlemen in search of a modern statement timepiece might give Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire an admiring look. Created to mark the L.U.C collection’s 25th anniversary, its claim to fame is a fully transparent design that affords 360-degree views into the internal workings of its calibre L.U.C 08.01-L movement as well as the chiming minute-repeater complication. Limited to an exclusive five-piece release, this see-through effect has been achieved by crafting many of its parts from robust sapphire crystal.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_Jaeger_lecoultre_master_hybris_artistica_calibre — (Photo courtesy of Jaeger LeCoultre)

Last on our list of wow-inducing Watches and Wonders Geneva highlights comes courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945, which literally looks to the skies for its inspiration. Simply brimming with complications, this master class in high-end watchmaking features a zodiac calendar, minute repeater and sky chart with a celestial vault. At 12 o’clock is the gorgeous celestial flying tourbillon, which makes one full cycle circumambulation for each day. Crafted in Galaxia pink gold or Atomium white gold with just five of each available, it’s a guaranteed collector’s item.

Montblanc’s new sports diving watch gets the ‘frozen’ treatment

When dreaming up a new sports diving watch, you’d expect watchmakers to delve into the depths of the world’s seas and oceans for inspirations. Interestingly, however, this was not the case for Montblanc’s latest offering – the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date. Instead – and rather appropriately given its name – the brand scaled the Alps to the glacial lakes of Mont Blanc massif mountain range. In particular, it was the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) and its interlocking network of ice crystals that inspired the timepiece’s new look.

Utilising the near-forgotten technique of gratté boisé as its base, Montblanc’s skilled artisans were able to capture the depth and grandiosity of Mer de Glace on a dial just 0.5mm thin. Encased in a stainless steel case replete with a two-toned ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel, its caseback features a stunning 3D relief engraving of a scuba diver exploring the glacial waters beneath an iceberg.

Equipped with an automatic calibre MB 24.17/SW200 movement, it is available with three different dials that encompass the various hues of glacial ice – blue, green or black. The 41mm watch’s inherent flexibility is further enhanced with the option of interchangeable rubber or V-shaped stainless steel straps, chosen for their durability in salt-water conditions. What’s more, switching between them can be done without the need for any tools, and are all adjustable on the wrist so owners can ensure a perfect fit, particularly when donning it over a wetsuit. Meticulously crafted with the brand’s renowned craftsmanship skills, the new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date is a true stunner.

For more information, please click here.

Buyer’s Guide: 7 impressive hyper-accurate tourbillon watches

When it was invented in the twilight years of the 18th century, the tourbillon was lauded as a revolutionary piece of horological engineering. Created to turn the escapement and balance wheel continuously within a rotating cage, it negated the effects of gravity on the commonly worn pocket watches of the era and thus ensured the heightened precision of the timepiece.

Today, with wristwatches now dominant, tourbillons are no longer critical to maintaining timekeeping precision. Yet, they continue to grace high-end wrist adornments as a testament to a watchmaker’s skilled craftsmanship. Here, we highlight seven recent creations that have eye-catchingly incorporated this mechanical marvel.

1. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

First is Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. A stunning ode to fine watchmaking, this statement timepiece features a staggering 16 complications, including calendar and astronomical indications as well as a minute repeater. The tourbillon proper takes pride of place at six o’clock on the front dial, while sidereal time is displayed at the back. The 47mm case is also etched with intertwining grapes and vines as a tribute to the Roman god of wine.

2.Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition

Another prime example of haute-horological skill comes courtesy of Girard-Perregaux’s La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition. Based on the prize-winning La Esmeralda pocket watch that debuted at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris, its blue enamel dial similarly features three dominant gold bridges, with the tourbillon positioned at the bottom. The equine inspiration of yesteryear has also been revived in this 18-piece limited edition, with two hand-engraved galloping horses straddling the dial. A further three horses punctuate the blue enamel caseback, which opens to reveal the GP09600-1506 self-winding movement underneath.

3.Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked

For a more streamlined – though no less mechanically impressive – design, look no further than Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked. Produced to mark the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, this 41mm stainless-steel timepiece is burnished with the brand’s first self-winding flying tourbillon open-worked movement – the Calibre 2972 – showed off to perfection by its skeletonised motif. Eschewing any unnecessary elements, it boasts an almost industrial appeal.

4.Bulgari Octa Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon

Similarly boasting an open-worked aesthetic – though with a sleek blue on platinum and white gold vibe – is Bulgari’s Octa Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon. Visible beneath its fascia is the hand-wound calibre BVL428 movement, replete with a tourbillon minute repeater whose chiming is the product of three hammers and gongs. In a smart move, the grille-like accents on its dial are designed to have as few obstructions as possible in order to allow clear passage of sound from within.

5. MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra

Bulgari also teamed up with renowned independent label MB&F to create the Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra. Blending high-end horology with haute joaillerie, this opulent design – available in white or red gold and limited to 20 pieces each – sees the eponymous flying tourbillon take centre stage beneath a distinctive domed dial. The pavéd diamond hour-and-minute subdial, meanwhile, is propped against it at a slant. Almost every visible inch of this bejewelled creation is carpeted with gemstones, as the likes of topaz, amethyst, tsavorite and tourmaline punctuate the plentiful diamonds.

6. Bovet Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined DLC-SLN

Another exquisite limited-edition wrist implement is Fleurier-based Bovet’s Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined DLC-SLN – the reimagining and the abbreviations involve a grade 5 titanium case coated in black Diamond Like Carbon. Its fascia features two subdials (a 10-day power reserve indicator on the left and another with a date aperture and model number on the right), while the tourbillon is visible at six o’clock. Just eight pieces each of six colourways – blue, salmon, turquoise, violet, green or yellow – will be made.

7. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon

Rounding out our list of top tourbillon designs is Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon – a collaboration with French graffiti artist Gully. Here, his interpretation of the Excalibur Monotourbillon’s iconic star motif is evidenced by abstract angular accents, some in a riot of colourful accents. It’s a deft touch, as the multihued touches also spell out his name, with the ‘U’ neatly ringing the tourbillon in question. Adroitly fusing haute horologerie with street art, this outré timepiece playfully explores new bounds of watchmaking without ever once skimping on precision engineering.

Roar into the Year of the Tiger with these luxury timepieces

As the Ox gives way to the Tiger, the world’s leading haute-horology houses are celebrating with an array of timepieces that pay tribute to the striped feline in question. Scroll below for seven stunning examples that merit particular mention.

Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm

First up is the whimsical, gem-studded Premier Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm from renowned American jeweller Harry Winston. Featuring 57 twinkling diamonds on its bezel, lug tips and crown, its appropriately red-hued dial is fronted by two adorable tiger cubs with bejewelled eyes, red beaded mother-of-pearl stripes and peony ‘tattoos’. Visible through the rose-gold caseback is the automatic movement that develops a robust 68-hour power reserve, while a chic red leather strap completes its festive appeal.

IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Chinese New Year”

Another timepiece utilising the Chinese colour of good luck, happiness and success is IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Chinese New Year”. Here, the striking burgundy dial – replete with hours, minutes and seconds displays and day and date apertures – is lovingly enveloped in a 41mm stainless-steel case. Underneath the hood is the in-house 69385 calibre movement and a specially-designed tiger-shaped rotor, all viewable through the transparent sapphire-crystal caseback.

Breguet’s 7145 Classique Year of the Tiger

For its part, Breguet unveils the 7145 Classique Year of the Tiger, whose fascia is adorned with a majestic tiger vividly brought to life through an intricate combination of bas-relief engraving and the brand’s iconic guilloché work. Adding to its super-slim sophistication, the 40mm rose-gold case boasts a depth of less than 5.5mm – a feat made possible by the ultra-thin, self-winding calibre 502.3 movement within. Just eight creations of this homage to fine artisanal watchmaking will be released.

Piaget’s Altiplano Year of the Tiger

A similarly slim CNY-inspired design comes courtesy of Piaget, with the dial of its 38-piece limited-edition Altiplano Year of the Tiger also dominated by the fearless feline. In this instance, however, it is the arts of cloisonné and grand feu enamel that enable the creature to pop out from the shimmering white mother-of-pearl dial. Ribbons of gold are painstakingly used to create each miniature portion of the tiger’s body before enamel pigment is added in an effect that heightens its lifelike vivacity. In a further statement of elegant embellishment, brilliant-cut diamonds ring the white-gold case.

Also Read: Time to Go Green – Luxury Timepieces With Colour

Ulysse Nardin’s Classico Tiger

Not to be outdone, Ulysse Nardin’s Classico Tiger relies on not one but two separate enamelling techniques to capture the essence of the eponymous giant cat, which is envisaged ready to pounce under a dramatic midnight-blue sky. The first – champlevé – involves creating recesses that are then filled with enamel, while the second, termed paillonné, utilises tiny slivers of gold or silver leaf coated with translucent enamel to create a shimmering metallic effect. After hours upon hours of labour-intensive craftsmanship, each of the 88 pieces of this model is unique.

Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Tiger

Turning to the ancient Japanese art of urushi lacquering, meanwhile, is Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Tiger. Powered by the L.U.C 96.17-L movement and crafted from 18K ethical rose gold, this 88-piece limited release depicts a tiger looking back towards a mountainous landscape. It’s an artistic image that is created through a months-long process of applying the sap of urushi trees (also known as lacquer trees) and tempering them into a hard consistency.

Vacheron Constantin’s Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Tiger

The final stop on our journey through the year’s outstanding Chinese Zodiac-inspired timepieces is Vacheron Constantin’s Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Tiger. Available in platinum with a blue dial or in rose gold with a brown dial (with 12 of each set to be released), just four apertures are visible on its 40mm fascia, displaying the hours, minutes, day and date. The rest of its expansive dial, meanwhile, is aptly dedicated to the Zodiac emblem of the year – a meticulously engraved prowling tiger whose eyes are firmly on its wearer.

Also read: Engagement Watches As New Engagement Rings! Read about the trend