A symphony of durability and comfort delivers, these protective creations are a perfect harmony of innovation, materials and design. Gentle, light and resistant to wear-and-tear, cases utilise such high-tech materials as Ceramos ™ and Plasma High-Tech Ceramic, as well as the monobloc construction – which fastens the primary movement components directly into the case, an attribution credited to only the Swiss maison – ensuring each piece can last until eternity.
Producing such intricate designs can only come about through the meticulous production process – one that requires utmost precision, skill, and, above all else, loving care. The method begins by creating a mould which is then injected and heated at 1,450°C for several hours to reach its maximum hardness and colour intensity. For Plasma High-Tech Ceramic, the components then undergo an additional oven treatment to transform its stark white hue to a sleek metallic finish. During this process, the case shrinks by 23 percent, after which it is machined down to achieve the accurate final dimensions required.
Moving onto the polishing, and the components are bathed in high-frequency vibrations to produce an exceptional shine, while precision-sandblasting bequeathes it an even matte finish. Meanwhile, the finer details of the case are further treated with engraving and lacquering processes as required before undergoing a rigorous inspection to ensure every piece meets Rado’s specific standards. The end result are timepieces that blend innovation and modern beauty with the finest watchmaking skills.
Stunning victors of the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève
Few events in watchmaking are as hotly anticipated as the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Now in its 20th year, the annual awards ceremony serves to unify the industry and celebrate its brightest horological creations. For the 2021 edition, 84 timepieces were nominated across 14 categories, with an expert jury revealing the winners last month. We spotlight seven awardees that merit particular mention.
Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize
Taking top honours for femme-focused complexity was Van Cleef & Arpels’ gorgeous Lady Féerie. Its 33mm white-gold case is fronted by a delicate fairy illuminated by moonlight who tells the passage of time with her magic wand. The fairy’s face is decorated with diamonds and shines against a bluish sky of guilloché-carved mother-of-pearl. This Poetic Complications Collection model features an automatic mechanical movement (Valfleurier Q020) with a jumping hours and retrograde minutes module – quite a feat for a watch of its small stature.
Men’s Complication Watch Prize
Independent manufacture MB&F’s LMX Titanium emerged victorious among the manly models. Created to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Legacy Machines and limited to a release of just 33 pieces, it sports the dynamic 3D dial with central flying balance wheel and two dials of its first predecessor. Complex yet practical, this 44mm titanium creation is further burnished with a dual time function for tracking two time zones simultaneously. The mechanism under the hood – MB&F’s manual-winding 367-part movement with robust seven-day power reserve – is equally impressive.
Artistic Crafts Watch Prize
MB&F picked up a second GPHG gong for LM SE Eddy Jaquet ‘Around the World in Eighty Days’, a watch inspired by the eponymous Jules Verne novel and one of a set of eight unique creations crafted in collaboration with master engraver Eddy Jaquet. Punctuated with an hours-and-minutes display, date indicator and power reserve aperture, the dial is dominated by scenes from Phileas Fogg’s adventures, all painstakingly engraved by Jaquet directly onto the mainplate of the manual-winding LM Split Escapement movement.
Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize
Dutch horology brand Christiaan van der Kraauw’s CVDK Planetarium Eise Eisinganabbed this prize thanks in no small part to it housing the world’s smallest mechanical heliocentric planetarium. Located on the bottom half of the 40mm design’s blue fascia, this tracks the real-time locations of the first six planets in our solar system as they orbit around the sun. Its self-winding movement serves up a 96-hour power reserve, while a pink gold case and elegant alligator leather strap completes the look of sophistication.
Challenge Watch Prize
Another outer space-inspired creation to achieve pole position was Shenzhen-based company CIGA Design’s Blue Planet, which snapped up the coveted Challenge Watch Prize. Limited to a release of just 50 pieces, the 46mm titanium model’s dominant motif is the miniature Earth – micro-carved to replicate our planet’s exact terrain as viewed from the North Pole – that rotates to indicate the hour via a mariner symbol along its edge. The minute hand, meanwhile, has been replaced with a rotating minute chapter ring, ensuring that nothing blemishes its aesthetic beauty.
Innovation Prize
A more minimalist design scored big for innovation: German independent watchmaker Bernhard Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer. Crafted from white gold, its sleek dial boasts a semi-skeletonised finish that reveals the inner movement via the two open-worked small-seconds apertures at 8 and 10 o’clock. While the rest of the face is covered, its caseback is wholly transparent, affording direct views of the mechanical-winding Calibre 9012 movement, replete with a cutting-edge escapement system.
“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar grabbed the highest honour this year. Long heralded for creating the world’s slimmest designs, the brand’s latest model broke yet another record as the thinnest perpetual calendar ever made. At just 5.8mm in depth, the 40mm titanium creation burnished in the brand’s signature octagonal shape is amazingly able to tell the day, date and month without any need for adjustment until the year 2100. A masterclass of precision engineering and haute horological know-how, it sets a new benchmark for fine watchmaking.
(Text: Tenzing Thondup Photos: GPHG)
Oriental Watch Company X Madame Fù Presents: Take Your Time – Savour the Moment
Hong Kong’s very own home-grown watch retailer, Oriental Watch Company, celebrates its 60th anniversary as a prominent and highly respected influence in the watchmaking industry for the last six decades.
As any timekeeper would dictate, 60 is a number that symbolises both the end, as well as beginning of time. With that, the company pays homage to its Diamond Jubilees, a memorable milestone for the brand.
“We are delighted to explore and rethink the meaning of time with our partners, our friends and the public while celebrating our Diamond Jubilee”, says Managing Director of Oriental Watch Company Dennis Yeung.
Priding itself as a company that excels in every aspect of expertise, services and business, the brand honours its roots to the city through the thematic collaboration with chic contemporary Cantonese dining space Madame Fù and award-winning local artist Sim Chan; set right in the heart of the heritage complex of Tai Kwun, Central.
From 22 November to 10 December, diners will be treated to a multi-sensory gourmet experience that combines a delectable feast, an opulent venue and an artistic installation, The Discovery of Time ~ 1961.
This collaboration serves as the perfect partnership to reflect the brand’s philosophy of merging tradition with the new to deliver the best of the West and the East together. Presenting a 6-course menu, meticulously designed by Kit Liao, Head Chef of Madame Fù: (1) Golden Years; (2) Diamond Jubilee; (3) Precious Memories; (4) Green Celebration; (5) Blessed Longevity; and (6) Sweet Moments, each dish embodies the essence of the theme, Take Your Time – Savour the Moment, while showcasing the painstaking unity of art and time.
Showcased in the background, artist Sim Chan presents creatively illustrates his reflection of the essence of time by painting the grids of 365 squares that represent each day of the 12-months, Chan has painted a swatch of colour on each grid, one day at a time, over the span of 30 days, producing a 12 canvases of unique gradients as the metaphor for the passing of time.
Each guest will receive the Art Canvas Tote Bag presented with a printed pattern of squares, representing the month of November 2021, as a commemorative gift for their own keepsake.
Reserve a table at Madame Fù,3rd Floor,Tai Kwun, No. 10 Hollywood Road, Central; (852) 2114 2118 / reservations@madamefu.com.hk
Seven standout timepieces from the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction
The biennial Only Watch Charity Auction has become something of a fixture on the calendars of haute-horology enthusiasts. Now in its ninth iteration, it was founded by Luc Pettavino to raise funds for his charity, the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM). The heartbreaking diagnosis of his five-year-old son, Paul, with the Duchenne strain of the disease inspired Pettavino to champion this worthy cause; Paul succumbed to the condition in 2016 at age 21.
Not only do all proceeds from the Only Watch auction go towards research for the neuromuscular disorder (it has raised an eminently worthy 70 million euros since its inception), the exclusive horological event also affords collectors the chance to acquire one-of-a-kind timepieces. This year, the auction featured 53 unique lots crafted by 54 watchmakers, all donated pro bono, which go under the gavel in Geneva on 6 November. Here, we highlight seven particular standouts.
F.P. Journe FCC Blue (CHF 4.5 million)
First to the table is F.P. Journe’s unusual FCC Blue, inspired by a conversation with famed US director Francis Ford Coppola, who once asked the watchmaker if it would be possible to tell time using a literal human hand. Seven years later, a mechanical marvel with an automaton-powered blue hand taking place of pride on its open-worked fascia, was born. Each of the five fingers extend or retract to display the hours, while minutes are relayed via a peripheral disc.
David Candaux D. Candaux DC7 Genesis Piece Unique (CHF 150,000)
Another collaborative effort takes the form of the D. Candaux DC7 Genesis Piece Unique. The joint brainchild of watchmaker David Candaux and contemporary artist Mikki Saturno, this titanium timepiece features a purple bi-planar flying tourbillon at the top of its dazzling dial. The jewel in its crown, however, is undoubtedly the glorious artwork that covers the rest of its face – a miniature design wholly developed and hand-painted by Saturno himself. Interestingly, whether viewed from the front or the rear, the DC7 is among those rare watches that are perfectly symmetrical along the vertical axis.
Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2021 Edition (CHF 320,000)
A similarly artistic dial graces the Anywhere Only Watch 2021 Edition by Swiss watchmaker Krayon – in this instance, inspired by Impression, Sunrise by noted impressionist painter Claude Monet, albeit in a mosaic style. Underneath the hood beats a hand-wound prototype calibre C030 movement, and in an impressive engineering feat, the 39mm stainless-steel creation can even be adjusted to calculate the sunrise and sunset times of the winning bidder’s chosen locale.
Jacquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch (CHF 200,000)
Yet another multihued creation is on offer from Jacquet Droz – the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch. Rather than comprising a single piece of enamel, its kaleidoscopic plique-à-jour dial is actually a composite of multiple differently coloured and shaped cells, all held in place by gold wire cloisons. Housed in an 18K red-gold case, its Jacquet Droz 2625SQ self-winding movement is enticingly visible through its caseback.
Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Unique Piece for Only Watch (CHF 480,000)
Taking the rainbow motif to new heights is the Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Unique Piece for Only Watch by Zenith. Housing an El Primero 9020 movement, rainbow PVD coats its bridges and watch hands, and the hour markers are burnished in a special rainbow varnish. This unique 46mm sapphire-crystal creation also comes with a special Felipe Pantone watch box autographed by the artist.
MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch (CHF 620,000)
Taking inspiration from the fauna of Planet Earth, meanwhile, is independent label MB&F’s HM10 Panda Only Watch, which, as its name implies, boasts a case contoured to mimic the bamboo-eating mammal. Powered by an in-house HM10 calibre movement, the two black eyes are inhabited by aluminium time-displays, while the teeth indicate the power reserve. Its top is coated with black and white lacquer reminiscent of the animal’s fur coat, while a matching strap completes its panda appeal.
Richard Mille RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype (CHF 2.1 million)
Finally, there’s Richard Mille’s RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype. Named after the eponymous F1 racing driver, the timepiece proudly sports his red and white colours, as evidenced by the white and red Quartz TPT case, a proprietary composite materials that is particularly shock resistant. Fitted with a calibre CRMA7 movement and its lightest straps ever, this innovative watch packs a visual punch without ever weighing down the wrist.
(Text: Tenzing Thondup Photos: Only Watch Charity Auction)
Time To Go Green: Luxury watches with colour
Blue fascias were the timely tendency of 2020, but this year, it is verdant-fronted creations that have captured the imagination of haute-horology enthusiasts. Indeed, many high-end watch manufactures have favoured green as the primary colour of choice for their elegant wrist adornments. From minimalist creations to jaw-dropping, jewel-studded designs, we spotlight seven standouts that exemplify this latest trend.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G
Kicking off our list is renowned Swiss luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G-010, the latest addition to its octagonal-shaped Aquanaut collection. The first model to feature a white gold case, its dial is burnished in an attractive khaki green with matching strap. Under the hood beats a Calibre CH28-520 C self-winding flyback chronograph, an ingenious mechanism that allows the user to time new events while the watch is still running, all with the push of a button at four o’clock. Water-resistant to 120m, it is also available with a midnight blue or black dial.
IWC Portofino Chronograph 39
The next entry comes courtesy of Schaffhausen-based IWC, whose Portofino Chronograph 39, as its name suggests, is 39mm in diameter and shows a sporty slenderness of just 12.7mm. It nevertheless retains a dressy appeal, thanks to a mirror-polished case and elegant alligator-leather strap. The green dial comes equipped with rhodium-plated hands, while a hacking seconds sub-dial in the bottom half of its fascia is balanced with a 30-minute scale at 12 o’clock. Powering it all is a Calibre 79350 movement that bequeaths a 44-hour power reserve to the watch.
Breitling Top Time Ford Mustang
Embodying a racing aesthetic, meanwhile, is Breitling’s Top Time Ford Mustang, inspired by the eponymous motor developed by legendary US automaker Caroll Shelby in 1964. Fitted with a self-winding Calibre 25 chronograph movement, its viridescent dial is emblazoned with the car’s logo and three contrasting black sub-dials, all ringed with a black tachymeter scale. In keeping with its historic inspiration, brown racing-themed leather straps complete the vintage appeal.
OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra
For a more minimalist design, a look at one of OMEGA’s slew of new Seamaster Aqua Terra creations wouldn’t go amiss. Among the ten 38mm models introduced this year, one comes with a dark-green dial and another with a sun-brushed light-green face. For this latest update, the marque has introduced a new small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock with a date aperture within – a first for the collection. This is pretty much the only overt ornamentation on its fascia, save for sleek hour markers, the brand’s logo and, of course, the requisite ‘Seamaster’ sign.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36
Delivering a tropical flourish for fashionistas is the latest Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 from famed manufacture Rolex. Here, the dial is fronted by a gorgeous olive-green palm-frond motif, then enhanced by a chic Oystersteel case with a matching bracelet. One of a trio of 36mm models debuted by Rolex this year, it comes equipped with the new Calibre 3235 movement that churns out a robust 70-hour power reserve.
Chopard Happy Sport Golf Edition
Another green femme-focused timepiece takes the form of Chopard’s Happy Sport Golf Edition. Blending athleticism and gem-crafting with deft flair, its frosted emerald-esque face is punctuated with five bezel-set diamonds that float freely beneath its sapphire crystal cover. In a nod to the sport that inspired it, the stones are joined by a floating golf club and ball as well. Playful yet sophisticated, it offers a choice of two bezel designs – polished rose gold or diamond-studded.
Piaget Limelight Gala High Jewellery Black Opal
Finally, taking the top spot on our list is Piaget’s gorgeous Limelight Gala High Jewellery Black Opal. Its 36mm x 28mm dial is crafted from a rare Australia-sourced black opal, whose crystalline facets shift from green to blue as the light catches it. If that weren’t enough, the intriguingly seashell-shaped case is further adorned with a staggering 83 marquise-cut emeralds and 91 brilliant-cut diamonds running along the entirety of the bracelet. Unapologetically bold and attention-grabbing, it is the perfect amalgam of haute horology and high-end jewellery-making, and exemplifies the green hue that has so captivated watch lovers this year.
Engagement watches are the new engagement rings
Modern couples and forward-thinking individuals are setting the trend for engagement watches – breaking the mould of traditional engagement gifts.
(Photo: Piaget)
Not unbeknownst to any watch aficionado, gifting a fine watch, especially to men, have long been a sentiment and symbolism to reflect a person’s taste, lifestyle and class. Timeless, versatile and meaningful in every form, it’s little wonder why engagement watches are on the rise. But as modern society would have it, women too, have taken a keen interests in the practicality of wearing chronographs over jewellery.
(Photo: Omega)
Thankfully, watches today range drastically for both genders, from dress watches with classic vintage straps to high-jewellery timepieces for with diamond-set dials, each matching the unique personality and style of its owners. But which one makes for the perfect engagement watch to say “Yes” to and cement the kind of love worth celebrating? Here are a few of our recommendations…
For her: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust
28mm, 18ct yellow gold set with a white mother-of-pearl dial, and diamond-set hour-markers and bezel; Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown, a scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date and a semi-circular three-piece links President bracelet. Powered by a Bidirectional self-winding movement calibre 2236 with a power reserve of 55 hours and is waterproof up to 100 meters.
For him: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36
36mm, 18ct white gold dial set with baguette-cut diamonds on the hour markers, Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown, featuring a fluted bezel with scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date on a semi-circular three-piece links President bracelet. Bidirectional self-winding movement calibre 3255 with a 70-hour power reserve and is waterproof up to 100 meters.
For Her: Omega Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 29mm
29mm, 18k Sedna gold, diamond-paved bezel, sun-brushed blue dial with diamond hour markers and a date window at 6 o’clock within a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal case. The bracelet, hands, OMEGA logo, Constellation star and diamond holders are also in 18K Sedna™ gold. Powered by OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8701 visible through the domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
For Him: Omega Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm
39mm, 18K Sedna gold on leather strap, engraved bezel with Roman numerals, silk-embossed blue dial and a date window at 6 o’clock. The hands, OMEGA logo, Constellation star and indexes are all in 18K Sedna™ gold. Powered by OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8801 visible through the domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
For her: Audemar Piguet Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
42mm, salmon dial with with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating; Titanium case, glareproofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown with Titanium bracelet with AP folding clasp. Hand-Wound Minute repeater Supersonnerie, hours, minutes and small seconds with a 72-hour power reserve.
For him: Audemar Piguet Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
42mm, Black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating; 950 platinum case, glareproofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, hand-stitched “large square scale” black alligator strap with 950 platinum AP folding clasp. Hand-Wound Minute repeater Supersonnerie, hours, minutes and small seconds with a 72-hour power reserve
For Her: Piaget Polo Date High Jewellery watch
36mm, 18k white gold case set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.22 ct), 352 brilliant-cut (1.21 ct) diamond-paved-set dial, crown set with 9 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.02 ct) and bracelet in 18K white gold set with 1315 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.69 cts). Powered by a Manufacture Piaget 500P1 self-winding mechanical movement, visible through its sapphire crystal case back.
For Him: Piaget Polo Chronograph watch
42mm, 18K white gold case set with 178 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.70 cts), 286 brilliant-cut diamond pave (1.0 ct) set dial with blue counters, crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond (0.10 ct), buckle set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.10 ct) on an interchangeable strap. Powered by Manufacture Piaget 1160P self-winding mechanical movement with chronograph and date on Blue-coloured oscillating weight.
For Her: Cartier Tank Louis
30mm, case in 18K white gold set with 254-brilliant-cut diamonds (2.20 ct), beaded crown in 18K white gold-set with brilliant-cut diamond (0.12 ct). Sword-shaped hands in blue steel on a skeleton sapphire dial on fuchsia or burgundy alligator skin and 18K diamond-set white gold double adjustable folding bucket (0.42 ct). Water resistant of up to 30 meters. Calibre 9616 MC, hand-wound mechanical movement with a power reserve of up to approximately three days. Complication fully visible under sapphire crystal and case back.
For Him: Cartier Tank Asymétrique
47.15 mm, platinum case on navy blue or black alligator skinstraps. Buckle and crown set with 251 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.21 ct). Blue-steel sword-shaped hands and Arabic numerals on the hour-markers on skeletonised dial. Manufacture hand-wound mechanical movement with manual winding, calibre 9623 MC (112 parts, 22 jewels) and 48-hour power reserve.
For Her: Longines the record collection 26mm, 18k pink gold, white mother-of-pearl dial with pink hands, 12 Top Wesselton VS-SI diamond-set (o.034 ct) hour-markers, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass and case back on brown alligator strap. COSC self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of 45-hours. Water resistant up to 30 meters.
For Him: Longines Master Collection 40mm, 18 rose gold, anti-wear synthetic sapphier glass and case back, sukver “wheat grain” decoration with blue steel hands and lacquered Arabic numerals on brown alligator strap, L888 self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of 72-hours
For Her: Patek Philippe Twenty~4 7300/1450R
36mm, Rose gold Haute Joaillerie model. 384 diamonds are set on the dial “snow setting” while its bezel, crown and rose gold bracelet are paved with diamonds. Sitting underneath its rose gold case and sapphire-crystal case back is a self-winding movement Calibre 324 S.
For Him: Patek Philippe Calatrava 4978/400G-001
36.5mm, Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie model. 679 diamonds of graduated size forming a spiral is embellished on the dial, while the bezel, crown and bracelet are paved with diamonds. Featuring a white gold case and sapphire-crystal case back that encloses its ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement Caliber 240.
For Her: Jager LeCoultre Reverso Classic Duetto pink gold
21mm, Pink gold, silvered grey dial with vertical satin-brushed and guilloché, black transferred numerals and Bâton hands on the front and frosted numerls with Dauphones hands and frosted numerals on the back dial, finished with diamond settings on the top and bottom edges. Manual-winding movement Jaeger LeCoultre Calibre 844 (223 parts, 19 jewels).
For Him: Jager LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Moon
29.9mm, Stainless Steel with leather strap, silverd grey dial with appliqued hour-markers and dauphones hands with a moon phase and date indicator at 6 o’clock at the front; and dauphoines hands, appliqued hour-marker on Blue, guilloché, velvety Clous de Paris dial at the back. Manual winding movement, Jaeger LeCoultre Calibre 853A (100 parts, 18 jewels).
For Her: Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Cocktail 2-Hand
25.6mm, 18k rose gold, White guilloché dial, black satin strap with a diamond buckle, case set with round brilliant cut diamonds (1.53 ct), Quartz movement. Water resistant up to 30 meters.
For Him: Tiffany & Co. Tiffany 1837 Makers 27mm Square Watch
27mm, 18k rose gold with a rose gold soleil dial, limited edition applied gray Arabic numerals, gray alligator strap, hand-wound mechanical movement with power reserve of 42 hours. Water resistant up to 50 meters.
Slimmed down luxury: Exquisite, ultra-thin timepieces
The high-end watch industry is seemingly enamoured with the adage ‘bigger is better’, as new designs are launched to one-up the competition in terms of dial size and depth. However, those seeking a subtler, more streamlined aesthetic need not despair – several haute-horology brands have drawn back the curtain on more minimalist wrist adornments. Here, we spotlight seven slender timepieces that are more than worth a thorough perusal.
Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve
First up on our list of ultra-thin watches is Omega’s De Ville Trésor Power Reserve in 18K yellow gold. The model that debuted back in 1949 has now been updated to feature a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and a small-seconds sub-dial resting diametrically opposite. While retaining the understated vintage elegance of the original, it comes equipped with an up-to-the-minute movement – the hand-wound Master Chronometer Calibre 8935. Delivering a robust 72-hour power reserve, it nevertheless manages to pack everything into a 10.07mm-thin case.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin
Audemars Piguet has also released new interpretations of a classic design in the form of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin. When its predecessor was launched at the 1972 Baselworld fair, it pretty much birthed the luxury sports watch category. These latest versions, however, are somewhat more sophisticated, thanks to the 1,102 brilliant-cut diamonds punctuating their case, bezel and bracelet. Available with a light blue or black dial in a white or pink gold case, its slimness may be attributed to the self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2121 movement within, whose thickness measures just 3.05mm.
Montblanc Heritage Pythagore Small Second Limited Edition 148
Rounding out our trio of timeless classics made contemporary is Montblanc’s Heritage Pythagore Small Second Limited Edition 148, which was inspired by the historic ’40s-era Minerva Pythagore calibre 48. With that movement as a reference, the engineers at Montblanc developed an all-new, hand-wound 4.07mm Manufacture Calibre MB M14.08 for the new creation, replete with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Available in blue with a white gold case or ‘burnt caramel’ encased in pink gold, both avatars are limited to a release of just 148 pieces.
Panerai Luminor Due
Similarly upscaling an athletic model in a streamlined form is Panerai, with its new Luminor Due boasting an automatic P.900 calibre movement that’s just 4.2mm thick. To ensure this mechanism remains tamper-proof, Panerai has equipped a Safety Lock crown-protection device on the side of its square-shaped bezel. Fitted with a three-day power reserve, this elegant blue-and-steel timepiece comes furnished with a navy sun-brushed dial punctuated with a small seconds sub-dial and a date aperture at nine o’clock and three o’clock respectively. A blue alligator-skin strap rounds out its sporty feel.
Introducing a splash of scarlet to proceedings is Antwerp-headquartered independent manufacture Ressence’s striking Type 1 Slim Red. Unlike traditional dial layouts with hour and minute hands rotating around a central axis, the Type 1 Slim Red’s fascia displays the Ressence Orbital Convex System to tell time. In layman’s terms, it features three separate indicators for hours, seconds and week days. Distinguished with a bold red dial and matching rubber strap, the new model has been slimmed down by some 20 percent since its 2019 debut.
Hermès Slim d’Hermès La Source de Pégase
Elevating colourful dials to literal works of art, Hermès has unveiled the Slim d’Hermès La Source de Pégase, powered by a 2.6mm-thin mechanical self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1950 movement. Drawing on the craft skills of miniature painting, straw marquetry, enamelling and hand-engraving, the delicate dial features a majestic winged horse rearing to strike a rock with its hooves. Two avatars of this vibrant design – a reinterpretation of the eponymous Hermès silk scarf designed by French artist Pierre Marie – are on offer: a yellow Pegasus dial with white strap and an all-blue version. With only 12 of each version to be produced, they’re sure to fly quickly to the hands of discerning collectors.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept
Rounding out our list is Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept “Tribute to La Côte-aux-Fées”. A past master at creating slim designs, the brand almost defies the laws of physics with a timepiece measuring just 2mm thick, roughly the equivalent of a HK$1 coin. The Calibre 900P-UC movement is directly machined onto the cobalt alloy case – which is fronted by an intriguing open-worked dial – in order to achieve this incredible slimness; just 0.12mm separates the workings from the wearer’s skin. A tribute to cutting-edge watchmaking, it proudly claims the title of 2021’s thinnest watch.
Timepiece collection: Luxury skeleton watches to make a powerful statement!
As horological statement pieces, skeleton watches afford aficionados the opportunity to glimpse the precision-engineered movements beneath their transparent dials. Their origins can be traced back to mid-18th century France, and more specifically, to watchmaker André-Charles Caron who created a timepiece that eschewed all the usual window dressing on the dial, leaving a clear view of the mechanism underneath.
Since that moment of clarity, the popularity of skeleton-dial watches has only grown, with haute-horology houses now clamouring to create ever more intricate designs with an open-worked fascia. Here, we highlight seven of the latest crop that merit particular mention.
Rotonde de Cartier by Cartier
First in our list of stunning skeletonised creations is Cartier’s Rotonde de Cartier Astronomystérieux, one of a trio of limited editions that comprise the Rotonde de Cartier Precious Icon Set. Taking place of pride on its transparent dial is the floating Calibre 9462 MC movement suspended inside a tourbillon carriage. This enticing display is housed in a 43.5mm palladium case, encircled by an outer ring featuring Roman-numeral hour markers. Fitted with teal alligator leather straps, only five pieces of this guaranteed collector’s item will ever be made.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-one
Another limited release comes in the form of the newest avatars of Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-one. The Swiss-headquartered watch manufacturer has, in fact, simultaneously released not one, not two, but three different versions – Black Ceramic Green, Black Ceramic Sky Blue, and Plasma Ceramic Yellow. All boast see-through dials that showcase the brand’s iconic ‘figure 8’ motif, with the hour-and-minute dial gracing its top half and a large seconds display located at the 6 o’clock position.
Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Saphire
Then, taking proceedings to dazzlingly transparent heights is Hublot’s Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire. Housed in a virtually scratch-proof sapphire crystal case, its open-worked fascia is dominated by the HUB6035 automatic movement, which is suspended on three transparent sapphire bridges to give the appearance that it is floating in mid-air. If that weren’t enough, even its strap received the see-through treatment – a feat that required 165 separate components – providing this 30-piece limited release with a truly airy appeal.
Piaget Polo Skeleton by Piaget
To capture a sportier look, luxury maison Piaget has unveiled the Piaget Polo Skeleton, a 42mm creation available in either Piaget blue PVD or slate grey. It’s the first time the Polo has gone skeletal, and the brand, which is already renowned for crafting super-slim timepieces, has truly outdone itself. Indeed, the watch’s overall case depth measures just 6.5mm – a remarkable 30 percent thinner than earlier editions.
Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune
A similarly lightweight feel comes courtesy of Hermès’ Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, a beautiful design crafted from ultra-light titanium. Not only does its skeletonised dial show off the super-slim Hermès H1953 Manufacture movement, it’s also the perfect frame to view the double moonphase display at 6 o’clock.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton
Eschewing minimalism for a more outré effect is the 88-piece Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton from noted avant-garde manufacturer Roger Dubuis. Spawned from its ongoing partnership with tyre brand Pirelli, this 45mm black titanium model features an undeniable racing DNA, as evidenced in the tyre-shaped case that houses the RD820SQ automatic skeleton movement.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton
For the ultimate in statement timepieces, though, feast your eyes on Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton. A master class in horological engineering, this 41.5mm white-gold creation houses one of the most intricate complications in the world of fine watchmaking – the perpetual calendar. The feat is all the more impressive given the open-worked design, which by its very nature requires the paring back of all but essential elements on the dial. Boasting supreme technical performance and stunning aesthetics, it truly sets a new bar for skeletonised watches.
Dialing It Up: Unusually shaped watches that bring a fresh perspective on timekeeping
Round or square dials with flat display cases are pretty much the norm in the world of high-end timepieces. A few daring watch manufactures, however, venture beyond these traditional forms, experimenting with domed displays, transparent cases and unusual timekeeping apertures that are as avant-garde as they are stunning.
Here, we cast a discerning eye over the latest crop of unusually shaped wrist adornments.
Cloche de Cartier by Cartier
First on our list is the bell-shaped Cloche de Cartier. Inspired by luxury maison Cartier’s Cloche design of the ’20s, this idiosyncratic creation boasts a bell-shaped case with the dial’s hour markers rotated some 90 degrees from its usual orientation, giving it the aesthetic of a traditional desk clock.
Six different iterations of the new Cloche de Cartier have been unveiled. Versions encased in yellow gold, pink gold and platinum are equipped with a hand-wound 1917 MC movement, while three skeletonised models – available in pink gold, platinum or platinum with diamonds – feature a calibre 9626 MC movement.
Purnell Escape II Absolute Sapphire
Similarly boasting a see-through appeal is Swiss watchmaker Purnell’s Escape II Absolute Sapphire, which claims the honour of being the world’s first-ever double triple-axis tourbillon to be housed in a full sapphire case with movement bridges and a dial crafted from sapphire crystal.
This delightful open-worked motif affords direct views of the intricately engineered double Spherion movement, as well as the six barrels that power it. Just one piece will be made, so this exceptional 48mm watch is a guaranteed collector’s edition.
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Pièce Unique
Another one-of-a-kind model with an unusual case is Vacheron Constantin’s American 1921 Pièce Unique, which the marque has painstakingly recreated from the 1919 original. When that vintage timepiece debuted, it was the world’s first-ever cushion-shaped design, and this unique feature has been revived for its 21st-century descendant.
In keeping with the historic nature of its legacy, almost every component of the watch has been constructed exactly as it would have been a century ago, with even the logo reading a period-accurate ‘Vacheron et Constantin Geneve Suisse’.
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport
Injecting an element of 3D sophistication, meanwhile, is Greubel Forsey’s updated GMT Sport. Certain to appeal to jetsetters, its three-dimensional blue dial is punctuated with a second time zone indicator, a rotating globe with universal time and day-night indicator, and a tourbillon at the 2 o’clock position.
Limited to a release of just 33 pieces in titanium, it sports a distinctive ovoid case that gently curves at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock for a more streamlined look.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Minute Repeater
Not to be outdone, high-end fashion house Louis Vuitton has pulled back the curtain on the Tambour Carpe Diem Minute Repeater, a fantastical horological creation featuring a dominant relief sculpture of a skull on its dial, replete with an intertwining snake. A legion of moving mechanisms stud this truly stunning piece of engineering, be it the snake’s tail that acts as a retrograde seconds indicator, the skull’s jaw gaping open to reveal the words ‘carpe diem’ or the moving lattice that changes the brand’s floral emblem into a star. In short, this is one minute repeater and ‘time on demand’ timepiece that elevates dial art to a whole new strata.
Christophe Claret X-TREM-1
Taking the number one spot on our list of unusually shaped dials is independent Swiss watchmaker Christophe Claret’s X-TREM-1. Having debuted in 2012, this latest edition comes burnished in an eye-catching blue hue. Turning traditional timekeeping completely on its head, it eschews hour and minute hands entirely, instead displaying the time via two orange steel spheres moving up and down demarcated hour and minute displays. Seconds, meanwhile, are indicated by the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which rotates every 30 seconds. Powered by a hand-wound FLY11 mechanical movement that takes place of pride on its open-worked fascia, this remarkable creation represents innovative haute horology at its very best.
Feature image: Vacheron Constantin’s American 1921 Pièce Unique movement assembly
Wrist Candy: Five dazzling high jewellery watches to add to your collection
Although the world of haute horology is, today, a male-dominated sphere, the industry actually owes the rise of wristwatches to demand from the fairer sex. During the late 19th century, when pocket watches were still the norm, it was women who had began adorning their wrists with fashionable gem-studded timepieces. Today, high jewellery watches blend the best of haute horology and high jewellery traditions in utterly stunning expressions that make for captivating timepieces that ensure all eyes are firmly on you…
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Purple Arums The line between art and watchmaking is often blurred when it comes to high jewellery watches, and renowned Swiss horologist Jaeger-LeCoultre plays with this amalgam exceptionally well with its latest Reverso,Purple Arums. Taking inspiration from decorative jewellery worn in the ’20s, the 40mm self-winding wristwatch, powered by the watchmaker’s patented Calibre 846 movement, introduces a truly unique Reverso iteration replete with the model’s iconic double-sided rectangular case. Its vivid floral design seamlessly flows across the rotatable case front, exhibiting a high level of craftsmanship that required a painstaking 95-hour process of gem-setting, enamelling and engraving to create.
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Staying with manual-winding chronographs, Vacheron Constantin celebrates the multiple facets of femininity through its new Égérie self-winding diamond-pavé models. Presented at the Watches & Wonders 2021, the ultra chic and elegantly versatile 35mm jewellery watch is truly worth of being added to the collection of any discerning fashionista. Featuring the maison’s signature off-centre display and asymmetrical geometry (artfully interlace two circles), a total of 574 round-cut diamonds punctuate the dial as well as the watch’s bezel, flanks and lugs, imparting an added sparkle to proceedings.
Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise The next entry on our list of stunning high jewellery watches comes courtesy of Swiss luxury watch and jewellery maker Piaget. The Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise is an automatic movement that features an eye-catching 32mm 18K white gold case and a bezel set with 32 brilliant-cut blue sapphires and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds, all of which were carefully sifted through to create the seamlessly flowing gradient that outlines the snowy, diamond embellished dial mixed with different-sized gemstones — a true beauty for the modern-day woman.
Franck Muller Double Mystery Peony Next up, a marriage between haute horology and haute couture comes through a combination of technical innovation and the art of watchmaking – the intricately detailed Double Mystery Peony from Swiss horology brand Frank Muller. The 42mm mechanical complication, powered by a 42 DM PEONY D 2R CD movement, boasts a gorgeous gem-studded dial replete with 662 brilliant-cut diamonds and precious stones, all of which were painstakingly hand-set. Further accentuating its avant-garde aesthetics are the hour and minute indicators, which are placed on rotating discs at its centre.
Cartier Libre Baignoire Turtle Rounding out our list of high jewellery watches is luxury maison Cartier’s limited-edition Libre Baignoire Turtle watch. Taking inspiration from its 2019 Baignoire predecessor, just 30 pieces of this masterclass in jewellery watchmaking will be produced. Playful, sophisticated and all-but-guaranteed to ensnare any passing gaze, its geometric motif is punctuated with anthracite, buff-topped sapphires and pavé diamonds that together call to mind the scaling of a turtle’s shell.
