The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

Once known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Watches and Wonders is undoubtedly one of the most hotly anticipated watch fairs each year. For its first 2022 outing – held in Geneva earlier this month – 38 internationally acclaimed brands showcased their latest products to almost 22,000 visitors. Celebrating the spirit of innovation and precision engineering, hundreds of watches were on display, with the seven below deserving special mention.

Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_Cartier_Masse mysterieuse — (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

First on our list is Cartier’s Masse Mystérieuse, a stunningly sleek skeletonised design. Crafted from 950 platinum, this innovative watch is a study in minimalism, with half of its open-worked fascia remaining wholly transparent, while the other half reveals the inner workings of the Calibre 9801 MC automatic movement floating underneath. Adding a splash of colour to proceedings is the ruby cabochon crown, while a charcoal grey alligator leather strap completes its almost industrial appeal.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Similarly open-worked is Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The brand is known for crafting super-slim designs – it holds several records for the thinnest timepieces in existence – and this new creation is a tribute to a model first presented four years ago that measures a scant two millimetres thick. To deliver this streamlined look, Piaget has fused the traditional four-layer structure (bezel and crystal, dial, movement and caseback) into one complex construct. Elsewhere, several touches nod to the exact moment this watch was dreamt up.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290

Achieving different heights of invention, Montblanc has crafted a timepiece to withstand some of Earth’s harshest conditions – atop Mount Everest. The 44mm titanium case of the 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290 is literally devoid of all oxygen in a bid to avoid fogging and oxidation at extreme altitudes and sub-zero temperatures. Then there’s the bidirectional bezel, which marks the cardinal points to ensure climbers keep their bearings. To prove that this isn’t just all promotional hype to boost sales, the brand has partnered with acclaimed Nepalese mountaineer Nimal Purja – scaler of the world’s 14 highest peaks in just six months and six days – who will wear the watch on his next Everest ascent.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht_Master 40

Rolex’s new gem-set Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 is inspired by the multitudinous colours of the aurora borealis. Equipped with a 40mm waterproof Oyster case in white gold, the latest avatar of this iconic timepiece comes burnished with the cutting-edge calibre 3235 movement and has been paired with the latest Oysterflex bracelet for optimum comfort and durability. A dazzling design, it’s sure to ensnare any passing gaze thanks to the shimmering blue, grey and pink diamonds and sapphires that stud its bezel.

Patek Philippe Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_patek_philippe_antiplano_ultimate_concept — (Photo courtesy of Patek Philippe)

Also treading a precious path, Patek Philippe has unveiled the new Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time. Dominated by an all-green motif, this 36mm vintage-inspired creation sees its rose-gold bezel and buckle adorned with 62 and 27 diamonds respectively for a glimmering allure. The self-winding Calibre 240 HU movement, in addition to tracking home time, allows users to view all 24 time zones simultaneously in a ring around its dial – a convenient feature for the post-covid jet-setting fashionistas indeed.

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire

Gentlemen in search of a modern statement timepiece might give Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire an admiring look. Created to mark the L.U.C collection’s 25th anniversary, its claim to fame is a fully transparent design that affords 360-degree views into the internal workings of its calibre L.U.C 08.01-L movement as well as the chiming minute-repeater complication. Limited to an exclusive five-piece release, this see-through effect has been achieved by crafting many of its parts from robust sapphire crystal.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945

The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022_gafencu_Jaeger_lecoultre_master_hybris_artistica_calibre — (Photo courtesy of Jaeger LeCoultre)

Last on our list of wow-inducing Watches and Wonders Geneva highlights comes courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945, which literally looks to the skies for its inspiration. Simply brimming with complications, this master class in high-end watchmaking features a zodiac calendar, minute repeater and sky chart with a celestial vault. At 12 o’clock is the gorgeous celestial flying tourbillon, which makes one full cycle circumambulation for each day. Crafted in Galaxia pink gold or Atomium white gold with just five of each available, it’s a guaranteed collector’s item.

Montblanc’s new sports diving watch gets the ‘frozen’ treatment

When dreaming up a new sports diving watch, you’d expect watchmakers to delve into the depths of the world’s seas and oceans for inspirations. Interestingly, however, this was not the case for Montblanc’s latest offering – the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date. Instead – and rather appropriately given its name – the brand scaled the Alps to the glacial lakes of Mont Blanc massif mountain range. In particular, it was the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) and its interlocking network of ice crystals that inspired the timepiece’s new look.

Utilising the near-forgotten technique of gratté boisé as its base, Montblanc’s skilled artisans were able to capture the depth and grandiosity of Mer de Glace on a dial just 0.5mm thin. Encased in a stainless steel case replete with a two-toned ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel, its caseback features a stunning 3D relief engraving of a scuba diver exploring the glacial waters beneath an iceberg.

Equipped with an automatic calibre MB 24.17/SW200 movement, it is available with three different dials that encompass the various hues of glacial ice – blue, green or black. The 41mm watch’s inherent flexibility is further enhanced with the option of interchangeable rubber or V-shaped stainless steel straps, chosen for their durability in salt-water conditions. What’s more, switching between them can be done without the need for any tools, and are all adjustable on the wrist so owners can ensure a perfect fit, particularly when donning it over a wetsuit. Meticulously crafted with the brand’s renowned craftsmanship skills, the new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date is a true stunner.

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Buyer’s Guide: 7 impressive hyper-accurate tourbillon watches

When it was invented in the twilight years of the 18th century, the tourbillon was lauded as a revolutionary piece of horological engineering. Created to turn the escapement and balance wheel continuously within a rotating cage, it negated the effects of gravity on the commonly worn pocket watches of the era and thus ensured the heightened precision of the timepiece.

Today, with wristwatches now dominant, tourbillons are no longer critical to maintaining timekeeping precision. Yet, they continue to grace high-end wrist adornments as a testament to a watchmaker’s skilled craftsmanship. Here, we highlight seven recent creations that have eye-catchingly incorporated this mechanical marvel.

1. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

First is Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. A stunning ode to fine watchmaking, this statement timepiece features a staggering 16 complications, including calendar and astronomical indications as well as a minute repeater. The tourbillon proper takes pride of place at six o’clock on the front dial, while sidereal time is displayed at the back. The 47mm case is also etched with intertwining grapes and vines as a tribute to the Roman god of wine.

2.Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition

Another prime example of haute-horological skill comes courtesy of Girard-Perregaux’s La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition. Based on the prize-winning La Esmeralda pocket watch that debuted at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris, its blue enamel dial similarly features three dominant gold bridges, with the tourbillon positioned at the bottom. The equine inspiration of yesteryear has also been revived in this 18-piece limited edition, with two hand-engraved galloping horses straddling the dial. A further three horses punctuate the blue enamel caseback, which opens to reveal the GP09600-1506 self-winding movement underneath.

3.Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked

For a more streamlined – though no less mechanically impressive – design, look no further than Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked. Produced to mark the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, this 41mm stainless-steel timepiece is burnished with the brand’s first self-winding flying tourbillon open-worked movement – the Calibre 2972 – showed off to perfection by its skeletonised motif. Eschewing any unnecessary elements, it boasts an almost industrial appeal.

4.Bulgari Octa Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon

Similarly boasting an open-worked aesthetic – though with a sleek blue on platinum and white gold vibe – is Bulgari’s Octa Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon. Visible beneath its fascia is the hand-wound calibre BVL428 movement, replete with a tourbillon minute repeater whose chiming is the product of three hammers and gongs. In a smart move, the grille-like accents on its dial are designed to have as few obstructions as possible in order to allow clear passage of sound from within.

5. MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra

Bulgari also teamed up with renowned independent label MB&F to create the Legacy Machine Flying T Allegra. Blending high-end horology with haute joaillerie, this opulent design – available in white or red gold and limited to 20 pieces each – sees the eponymous flying tourbillon take centre stage beneath a distinctive domed dial. The pavéd diamond hour-and-minute subdial, meanwhile, is propped against it at a slant. Almost every visible inch of this bejewelled creation is carpeted with gemstones, as the likes of topaz, amethyst, tsavorite and tourmaline punctuate the plentiful diamonds.

6. Bovet Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined DLC-SLN

Another exquisite limited-edition wrist implement is Fleurier-based Bovet’s Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined DLC-SLN – the reimagining and the abbreviations involve a grade 5 titanium case coated in black Diamond Like Carbon. Its fascia features two subdials (a 10-day power reserve indicator on the left and another with a date aperture and model number on the right), while the tourbillon is visible at six o’clock. Just eight pieces each of six colourways – blue, salmon, turquoise, violet, green or yellow – will be made.

7. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon

Rounding out our list of top tourbillon designs is Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon – a collaboration with French graffiti artist Gully. Here, his interpretation of the Excalibur Monotourbillon’s iconic star motif is evidenced by abstract angular accents, some in a riot of colourful accents. It’s a deft touch, as the multihued touches also spell out his name, with the ‘U’ neatly ringing the tourbillon in question. Adroitly fusing haute horologerie with street art, this outré timepiece playfully explores new bounds of watchmaking without ever once skimping on precision engineering.

Roar into the Year of the Tiger with these luxury timepieces

As the Ox gives way to the Tiger, the world’s leading haute-horology houses are celebrating with an array of timepieces that pay tribute to the striped feline in question. Scroll below for seven stunning examples that merit particular mention.

Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm

First up is the whimsical, gem-studded Premier Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm from renowned American jeweller Harry Winston. Featuring 57 twinkling diamonds on its bezel, lug tips and crown, its appropriately red-hued dial is fronted by two adorable tiger cubs with bejewelled eyes, red beaded mother-of-pearl stripes and peony ‘tattoos’. Visible through the rose-gold caseback is the automatic movement that develops a robust 68-hour power reserve, while a chic red leather strap completes its festive appeal.

IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Chinese New Year”

Another timepiece utilising the Chinese colour of good luck, happiness and success is IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Chinese New Year”. Here, the striking burgundy dial – replete with hours, minutes and seconds displays and day and date apertures – is lovingly enveloped in a 41mm stainless-steel case. Underneath the hood is the in-house 69385 calibre movement and a specially-designed tiger-shaped rotor, all viewable through the transparent sapphire-crystal caseback.

Breguet’s 7145 Classique Year of the Tiger

For its part, Breguet unveils the 7145 Classique Year of the Tiger, whose fascia is adorned with a majestic tiger vividly brought to life through an intricate combination of bas-relief engraving and the brand’s iconic guilloché work. Adding to its super-slim sophistication, the 40mm rose-gold case boasts a depth of less than 5.5mm – a feat made possible by the ultra-thin, self-winding calibre 502.3 movement within. Just eight creations of this homage to fine artisanal watchmaking will be released.

Piaget’s Altiplano Year of the Tiger

A similarly slim CNY-inspired design comes courtesy of Piaget, with the dial of its 38-piece limited-edition Altiplano Year of the Tiger also dominated by the fearless feline. In this instance, however, it is the arts of cloisonné and grand feu enamel that enable the creature to pop out from the shimmering white mother-of-pearl dial. Ribbons of gold are painstakingly used to create each miniature portion of the tiger’s body before enamel pigment is added in an effect that heightens its lifelike vivacity. In a further statement of elegant embellishment, brilliant-cut diamonds ring the white-gold case.

Also Read: Time to Go Green – Luxury Timepieces With Colour

Ulysse Nardin’s Classico Tiger

Not to be outdone, Ulysse Nardin’s Classico Tiger relies on not one but two separate enamelling techniques to capture the essence of the eponymous giant cat, which is envisaged ready to pounce under a dramatic midnight-blue sky. The first – champlevé – involves creating recesses that are then filled with enamel, while the second, termed paillonné, utilises tiny slivers of gold or silver leaf coated with translucent enamel to create a shimmering metallic effect. After hours upon hours of labour-intensive craftsmanship, each of the 88 pieces of this model is unique.

Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Tiger

Turning to the ancient Japanese art of urushi lacquering, meanwhile, is Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Tiger. Powered by the L.U.C 96.17-L movement and crafted from 18K ethical rose gold, this 88-piece limited release depicts a tiger looking back towards a mountainous landscape. It’s an artistic image that is created through a months-long process of applying the sap of urushi trees (also known as lacquer trees) and tempering them into a hard consistency.

Vacheron Constantin’s Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Tiger

The final stop on our journey through the year’s outstanding Chinese Zodiac-inspired timepieces is Vacheron Constantin’s Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Tiger. Available in platinum with a blue dial or in rose gold with a brown dial (with 12 of each set to be released), just four apertures are visible on its 40mm fascia, displaying the hours, minutes, day and date. The rest of its expansive dial, meanwhile, is aptly dedicated to the Zodiac emblem of the year – a meticulously engraved prowling tiger whose eyes are firmly on its wearer.

Also read: Engagement Watches As New Engagement Rings! Read about the trend

7 stunning ladies’ watches to buy in 2022

Today, the world of high-end wristwatches is almost predominantly the domain of men, yet it was the fairer sex that should be credited with their actual creation. Up until the 19th century, it was still the norm for gentlemen to carry pocket watches in their jackets, while ladies made do with smaller iterations worn as necklaces, belts or brooches. But then a few intrepid women began wearing timepieces on their wrist as both a time-tracking gadget as well as a fashion accessory, birthing an entire new category of watches.

Interestingly, the first-ever ladies’ wristwatch dates back to 1810, when Breguet created a pocket watch attached to a bracelet, customised for the Queen of Naples, Caroline Murat. Several decades later, Patek Philippe followed suit, crafting its first wristwatch for Hungary’s Countess Koscowicz. Fast forward to times more contemporary, and these wrist adornments have overtaken pocket watches to become by far the most popular means of keeping time, with ever more women seeking out intricate timepieces that both dazzle the eyes and boast precision engineering under the hood. Below, we highlight seven of the latest crop that deserve special mention.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planétarium
(Price on request)

First up is Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Planétarium, part of the maison’s latest Sous Les Étoiles high jewellery collection. Deftly blending the arts of watchmaking and haute joaillerie, this gem-studded creation – which took a staggering 1,370 hours of work to complete – features an array of diamonds, spessartite garnets and coloured sapphires across its acreage. The dial proper, meanwhile, boasts a planetarium in miniature, displaying the real-time orbits of Mercury, Venus, Earth and its moon around the Sun.

Rolex Lady-Datejust 28
(Price on request)

Another bejewelled statement timepiece is Rolex’s new Lady-Datejust 28. Housed in a 28mm case, every visible inch of this latest iteration is swathed in glistening diamonds, be it the dial, bezel, case or its President bracelet. Powering this sparkling avatar is a Calibre 2236 self-winding mechanical movement, replete with a patented Syloxi silicon hairspring that is ten times the precision of traditional options when exposed to sudden movement.

Vacheronn Constantin Égérie
HK$505,000

Similarly boasting a diamond-studded aesthete are two versions of the Égérie by Vacheron Constantin – one crafted from 18K white gold and the other in 18K 5N pink gold. For both, some 877 shimmering diamonds can be found across its dial and 35mm case, while its fascia has also been given a rather avant-garde rotating date aperture within a sub-dial at 2 o’clock.

Breguet Reine de Naples 8938
HK$392, 200

Also featuring a rather unusual diamond-set dial in the series is Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8938, whose fascia is oval-shaped rather than circular. The precious stones, in this instance, have been set using the rarefied snow technique, which utilises differently sized gems in order to fully cover the dial and obscure the material underneath. The off-centre hours chapter, meanwhile, can be found at 6 o’clock, and the watch is available in multiple choices of white gold with blue straps or rose gold with orange straps.

Chopard 2021 Happy Sport 33mm
HK$192,727

For a more athletic model, there’s Chopard’s 2021 Happy Sport 33mm, replete with the collection’s signature ‘dancing diamonds’ that roam between its dial and sapphire crystal covering. Interestingly, its new 33mm case was created using the golden ratio in relation to its Chopard 09.01-C automatic movement, and is available in the buyer’s choice of Lucent Steel A223, ethical 18K rose gold, a two-tone version and a more luxurious, diamond-studded model.

Blacpain Villeret Quantième Complet
HK$153,500

Exemplifying the blue-and-white motif, meanwhile, is the 38mm Villeret Quantième Complet from Blancpain. Its all-white dial – encircled by a diamond-set bezel – boasts a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, while the inbuilt annual calendar complication means you can accurately track the day, date and month. Functional yet sophisticated, its flexibility is further enhanced with a choice of five interchangeable straps.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Dazzling Moon Lazura
HK$688,008

Not to be outdone, Jaeger-LeCoultre has also introduced a lunar-inspired creation – the Rendez-Vous Dazzling Moon Lazura. Where Blancpain’s model is all understated elegance, this is an unashamedly outré design made to attract attention. To start, 36 large diamonds and 72 smaller grain-set stones grace its bezel in double-ring formation. Then there’s the deep lapis lazuli dial, graced with a further 68 diamonds ringing a sub-dial at 6 o’clock that houses a delicate star chart and a mother-of-pearl moon phase indicator. Blending haute horology with high-end jewellery-making with true aplomb, this is one statement timepiece that will surely find favour with discerning female collectors.

The Radiant Rolex’s Lady-Datejust 28

As stylish fashionistas know, there’s no better way to ensnare any passing gaze than with a bejewelled statement timepiece, and few exemplify this beautiful motif better than renowned Swiss watchmaker Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust.

Deftly blending watchmaking expertise with gem-setting skills, every visible inch of this latest avatar of the brand’s instantly recognisable femme-focused watch is swathed in glistening diamonds that enchant the wearer and viewer alike. Indeed diamonds grace its dial, case, bezel, lugs and case sides, and can even be found across its eye-catching President bracelet, which now features a concealed Crownclasp.

The cohesiveness of this design is no accident. In fact, every seat has been painstakingly hand-crafted by Rolex’s skilled artisans to ensure a perfect fit for every stone placed on the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust. This is no small feat when you consider that some 291 diamonds have been paved onto its dial, a further 44 brilliant-cut stones have been set into the bezel, some 158 diamonds punctuate its 18 ct yellow gold case, and a staggering 596 brilliant-cut diamonds glitter on along its bracelet.

Housed within its 28mm case, meanwhile, is the cutting-edge Calibre 2236 – a new-generation self-winding mechanical movement developed and manufactured entirely in-house by Rolex. Fitted with its patented Syloxi silicon hairspring, this stunning piece of engineering not only offers greater resistance to temperature fluctuations and magnetic fields, but remains ten times more precise than traditional hairsprings in case of sudden movement.

Boasting the utmost reliability and exuding a delicate, classic femininity, this sparkling Lady-Datejust is the very epitome of haute horology-meets-high jewellery perfection.

Master of Materials: Rado’s Art of Ceramic

A symphony of durability and comfort delivers, these protective creations are a perfect harmony of innovation, materials and design. Gentle, light and resistant to wear-and-tear, cases utilise such high-tech materials as Ceramos ™ and Plasma High-Tech Ceramic, as well as the monobloc construction – which fastens the primary movement components directly into the case, an attribution credited to only the Swiss maison – ensuring each piece can last until eternity.

Producing such intricate designs can only come about through the meticulous production process – one that requires utmost precision, skill, and, above all else, loving care. The method begins by creating a mould which is then injected and heated at 1,450°C for several hours to reach its maximum hardness and colour intensity. For Plasma High-Tech Ceramic, the components then undergo an additional oven treatment to transform its stark white hue to a sleek metallic finish. During this process, the case shrinks by 23 percent, after which it is machined down to achieve the accurate final dimensions required.

Moving onto the polishing, and the components are bathed in high-frequency vibrations to produce an exceptional shine, while precision-sandblasting bequeathes it an even matte finish. Meanwhile, the finer details of the case are further treated with engraving and lacquering processes as required before undergoing a rigorous inspection to ensure every piece meets Rado’s specific standards. The end result are timepieces that blend innovation and modern beauty with the finest watchmaking skills.

Stunning victors of the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Few events in watchmaking are as hotly anticipated as the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Now in its 20th year, the annual awards ceremony serves to unify the industry and celebrate its brightest horological creations. For the 2021 edition, 84 timepieces were nominated across 14 categories, with an expert jury revealing the winners last month. We spotlight seven awardees that merit particular mention.

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize

Taking top honours for femme-focused complexity was Van Cleef & Arpels’ gorgeous Lady Féerie. Its 33mm white-gold case is fronted by a delicate fairy illuminated by moonlight who tells the passage of time with her magic wand. The fairy’s face is decorated with diamonds and shines against a bluish sky of guilloché-carved mother-of-pearl. This Poetic Complications Collection model features an automatic mechanical movement (Valfleurier Q020) with a jumping hours and retrograde minutes module – quite a feat for a watch of its small stature.

Men’s Complication Watch Prize

Independent manufacture MB&F’s LMX Titanium emerged victorious among the manly models. Created to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Legacy Machines and limited to a release of just 33 pieces, it sports the dynamic 3D dial with central flying balance wheel and two dials of its first predecessor. Complex yet practical, this 44mm titanium creation is further burnished with a dual time function for tracking two time zones simultaneously. The mechanism under the hood – MB&F’s manual-winding 367-part movement with robust seven-day power reserve – is equally impressive.

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize

MB&F picked up a second GPHG gong for LM SE Eddy Jaquet ‘Around the World in Eighty Days’, a watch inspired by the eponymous Jules Verne novel and one of a set of eight unique creations crafted in collaboration with master engraver Eddy Jaquet. Punctuated with an hours-and-minutes display, date indicator and power reserve aperture, the dial is dominated by scenes from Phileas Fogg’s adventures, all painstakingly engraved by Jaquet directly onto the mainplate of the manual-winding LM Split Escapement movement.

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize

Dutch horology brand Christiaan van der Kraauw’s CVDK Planetarium Eise Eisinga nabbed this prize thanks in no small part to it housing the world’s smallest mechanical heliocentric planetarium. Located on the bottom half of the 40mm design’s blue fascia, this tracks the real-time locations of the first six planets in our solar system as they orbit around the sun. Its self-winding movement serves up a 96-hour power reserve, while a pink gold case and elegant alligator leather strap completes the look of sophistication.

Challenge Watch Prize

Another outer space-inspired creation to achieve pole position was Shenzhen-based company CIGA Design’s Blue Planet, which snapped up the coveted Challenge Watch Prize. Limited to a release of just 50 pieces, the 46mm titanium model’s dominant motif is the miniature Earth – micro-carved to replicate our planet’s exact terrain as viewed from the North Pole – that rotates to indicate the hour via a mariner symbol along its edge. The minute hand, meanwhile, has been replaced with a rotating minute chapter ring, ensuring that nothing blemishes its aesthetic beauty.

Innovation Prize

A more minimalist design scored big for innovation: German independent watchmaker Bernhard Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer. Crafted from white gold, its sleek dial boasts a semi-skeletonised finish that reveals the inner movement via the two open-worked small-seconds apertures at 8 and 10 o’clock. While the rest of the face is covered, its caseback is wholly transparent, affording direct views of the mechanical-winding Calibre 9012 movement, replete with a cutting-edge escapement system.

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar grabbed the highest honour this year. Long heralded for creating the world’s slimmest designs, the brand’s latest model broke yet another record as the thinnest perpetual calendar ever made. At just 5.8mm in depth, the 40mm titanium creation burnished in the brand’s signature octagonal shape is amazingly able to tell the day, date and month without any need for adjustment until the year 2100. A masterclass of precision engineering and haute horological know-how, it sets a new benchmark for fine watchmaking.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup Photos: GPHG)

Oriental Watch Company X Madame Fù Presents: Take Your Time – Savour the Moment

Hong Kong’s very own home-grown watch retailer, Oriental Watch Company, celebrates its 60th anniversary as a prominent and highly respected influence in the watchmaking industry for the last six decades.

As any timekeeper would dictate, 60 is a number that symbolises both the end, as well as beginning of time. With that, the company pays homage to its Diamond Jubilees, a memorable milestone for the brand.

“We are delighted to explore and rethink the meaning of time with our partners, our friends and the public while celebrating our Diamond Jubilee”, says Managing Director of Oriental Watch Company Dennis Yeung.

Priding itself as a company that excels in every aspect of expertise, services and business, the brand honours its roots to the city through the thematic collaboration with chic contemporary Cantonese dining space Madame Fù and award-winning local artist Sim Chan; set right in the heart of the heritage complex of Tai Kwun, Central.

From 22 November to 10 December, diners will be treated to a multi-sensory gourmet experience that combines a delectable feast, an opulent venue and an artistic installation, The Discovery of Time ~ 1961.

This collaboration serves as the perfect partnership to reflect the brand’s philosophy of merging tradition with the new to deliver the best of the West and the East together. Presenting a 6-course menu, meticulously designed by Kit Liao, Head Chef of Madame Fù: (1) Golden Years; (2) Diamond Jubilee; (3) Precious Memories; (4) Green Celebration; (5) Blessed Longevity; and (6) Sweet Moments, each dish embodies the essence of the theme, Take Your Time – Savour the Moment, while showcasing the painstaking unity of art and time.

Showcased in the background, artist Sim Chan presents creatively illustrates his reflection of the essence of time by painting the grids of 365 squares that represent each day of the 12-months, Chan has painted a swatch of colour on each grid, one day at a time, over the span of 30 days, producing a 12 canvases of unique gradients as the metaphor for the passing of time.

Each guest will receive the Art Canvas Tote Bag presented with a printed pattern of squares, representing the month of November 2021, as a commemorative gift for their own keepsake.

Reserve a table at Madame Fù, 3rd Floor,Tai Kwun, No. 10 Hollywood Road, Central; (852) 2114 2118 / reservations@madamefu.com.hk

Seven standout timepieces from the 2021 Only Watch Charity Auction

The biennial Only Watch Charity Auction has become something of a fixture on the calendars of haute-horology enthusiasts. Now in its ninth iteration, it was founded by Luc Pettavino to raise funds for his charity, the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM). The heartbreaking diagnosis of his five-year-old son, Paul, with the Duchenne strain of the disease inspired Pettavino to champion this worthy cause; Paul succumbed to the condition in 2016 at age 21.

Not only do all proceeds from the Only Watch auction go towards research for the neuromuscular disorder (it has raised an eminently worthy 70 million euros since its inception), the exclusive horological event also affords collectors the chance to acquire one-of-a-kind timepieces. This year, the auction featured 53 unique lots crafted by 54 watchmakers, all donated pro bono, which go under the gavel in Geneva on 6 November. Here, we highlight seven particular standouts.

F.P. Journe FCC Blue (CHF 4.5 million)

First to the table is F.P. Journe’s unusual FCC Blue, inspired by a conversation with famed US director Francis Ford Coppola, who once asked the watchmaker if it would be possible to tell time using a literal human hand. Seven years later, a mechanical marvel with an automaton-powered blue hand taking place of pride on its open-worked fascia, was born. Each of the five fingers extend or retract to display the hours, while minutes are relayed via a peripheral disc.

David Candaux D. Candaux DC7 Genesis Piece Unique (CHF 150,000)

Another collaborative effort takes the form of the D. Candaux DC7 Genesis Piece Unique. The joint brainchild of watchmaker David Candaux and contemporary artist Mikki Saturno, this titanium timepiece features a purple bi-planar flying tourbillon at the top of its dazzling dial. The jewel in its crown, however, is undoubtedly the glorious artwork that covers the rest of its face – a miniature design wholly developed and hand-painted by Saturno himself. Interestingly, whether viewed from the front or the rear, the DC7 is among those rare watches that are perfectly symmetrical along the vertical axis.

Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2021 Edition (CHF 320,000)

A similarly artistic dial graces the Anywhere Only Watch 2021 Edition by Swiss watchmaker Krayon – in this instance, inspired by Impression, Sunrise by noted impressionist painter Claude Monet, albeit in a mosaic style. Underneath the hood beats a hand-wound prototype calibre C030 movement, and in an impressive engineering feat, the 39mm stainless-steel creation can even be adjusted to calculate the sunrise and sunset times of the winning bidder’s chosen locale.

Jacquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch (CHF 200,000)

Yet another multihued creation is on offer from Jacquet Droz – the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch. Rather than comprising a single piece of enamel, its kaleidoscopic plique-à-jour dial is actually a composite of multiple differently coloured and shaped cells, all held in place by gold wire cloisons. Housed in an 18K red-gold case, its Jacquet Droz 2625SQ self-winding movement is enticingly visible through its caseback.

Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Unique Piece for Only Watch (CHF 480,000)

Taking the rainbow motif to new heights is the Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Unique Piece for Only Watch by Zenith. Housing an El Primero 9020 movement, rainbow PVD coats its bridges and watch hands, and the hour markers are burnished in a special rainbow varnish. This unique 46mm sapphire-crystal creation also comes with a special Felipe Pantone watch box autographed by the artist.

MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch (CHF 620,000)

Taking inspiration from the fauna of Planet Earth, meanwhile, is independent label MB&F’s HM10 Panda Only Watch, which, as its name implies, boasts a case contoured to mimic the bamboo-eating mammal. Powered by an in-house HM10 calibre movement, the two black eyes are inhabited by aluminium time-displays, while the teeth indicate the power reserve. Its top is coated with black and white lacquer reminiscent of the animal’s fur coat, while a matching strap completes its panda appeal.

Richard Mille RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype (CHF 2.1 million)

Finally, there’s Richard Mille’s RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype. Named after the eponymous F1 racing driver, the timepiece proudly sports his red and white colours, as evidenced by the white and red Quartz TPT case, a proprietary composite materials that is particularly shock resistant. Fitted with a calibre CRMA7 movement and its lightest straps ever, this innovative watch packs a visual punch without ever weighing down the wrist.

Category: Watches