Blue fascias were the timely tendency of 2020, but this year, it is verdant-fronted creations that have captured the imagination of haute-horology enthusiasts. Indeed, many high-end watch manufactures have favoured green as the primary colour of choice for their elegant wrist adornments. From minimalist creations to jaw-dropping, jewel-studded designs, we spotlight seven standouts that exemplify this latest trend.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G
Kicking off our list is renowned Swiss luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G-010, the latest addition to its octagonal-shaped Aquanaut collection. The first model to feature a white gold case, its dial is burnished in an attractive khaki green with matching strap. Under the hood beats a Calibre CH28-520 C self-winding flyback chronograph, an ingenious mechanism that allows the user to time new events while the watch is still running, all with the push of a button at four o’clock. Water-resistant to 120m, it is also available with a midnight blue or black dial.
IWC Portofino Chronograph 39
The next entry comes courtesy of Schaffhausen-based IWC, whose Portofino Chronograph 39, as its name suggests, is 39mm in diameter and shows a sporty slenderness of just 12.7mm. It nevertheless retains a dressy appeal, thanks to a mirror-polished case and elegant alligator-leather strap. The green dial comes equipped with rhodium-plated hands, while a hacking seconds sub-dial in the bottom half of its fascia is balanced with a 30-minute scale at 12 o’clock. Powering it all is a Calibre 79350 movement that bequeaths a 44-hour power reserve to the watch.
Breitling Top Time Ford Mustang
Embodying a racing aesthetic, meanwhile, is Breitling’s Top Time Ford Mustang, inspired by the eponymous motor developed by legendary US automaker Caroll Shelby in 1964. Fitted with a self-winding Calibre 25 chronograph movement, its viridescent dial is emblazoned with the car’s logo and three contrasting black sub-dials, all ringed with a black tachymeter scale. In keeping with its historic inspiration, brown racing-themed leather straps complete the vintage appeal.
OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra
For a more minimalist design, a look at one of OMEGA’s slew of new Seamaster Aqua Terra creations wouldn’t go amiss. Among the ten 38mm models introduced this year, one comes with a dark-green dial and another with a sun-brushed light-green face. For this latest update, the marque has introduced a new small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock with a date aperture within – a first for the collection. This is pretty much the only overt ornamentation on its fascia, save for sleek hour markers, the brand’s logo and, of course, the requisite ‘Seamaster’ sign.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36
Delivering a tropical flourish for fashionistas is the latest Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 from famed manufacture Rolex. Here, the dial is fronted by a gorgeous olive-green palm-frond motif, then enhanced by a chic Oystersteel case with a matching bracelet. One of a trio of 36mm models debuted by Rolex this year, it comes equipped with the new Calibre 3235 movement that churns out a robust 70-hour power reserve.
Chopard Happy Sport Golf Edition
Another green femme-focused timepiece takes the form of Chopard’s Happy Sport Golf Edition. Blending athleticism and gem-crafting with deft flair, its frosted emerald-esque face is punctuated with five bezel-set diamonds that float freely beneath its sapphire crystal cover. In a nod to the sport that inspired it, the stones are joined by a floating golf club and ball as well. Playful yet sophisticated, it offers a choice of two bezel designs – polished rose gold or diamond-studded.
Piaget Limelight Gala High Jewellery Black Opal
Finally, taking the top spot on our list is Piaget’s gorgeous Limelight Gala High Jewellery Black Opal. Its 36mm x 28mm dial is crafted from a rare Australia-sourced black opal, whose crystalline facets shift from green to blue as the light catches it. If that weren’t enough, the intriguingly seashell-shaped case is further adorned with a staggering 83 marquise-cut emeralds and 91 brilliant-cut diamonds running along the entirety of the bracelet. Unapologetically bold and attention-grabbing, it is the perfect amalgam of haute horology and high-end jewellery-making, and exemplifies the green hue that has so captivated watch lovers this year.
Engagement watches are the new engagement rings
Modern couples and forward-thinking individuals are setting the trend for engagement watches – breaking the mould of traditional engagement gifts.
(Photo: Piaget)
Not unbeknownst to any watch aficionado, gifting a fine watch, especially to men, have long been a sentiment and symbolism to reflect a person’s taste, lifestyle and class. Timeless, versatile and meaningful in every form, it’s little wonder why engagement watches are on the rise. But as modern society would have it, women too, have taken a keen interests in the practicality of wearing chronographs over jewellery.
(Photo: Omega)
Thankfully, watches today range drastically for both genders, from dress watches with classic vintage straps to high-jewellery timepieces for with diamond-set dials, each matching the unique personality and style of its owners. But which one makes for the perfect engagement watch to say “Yes” to and cement the kind of love worth celebrating? Here are a few of our recommendations…
For her: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust
28mm, 18ct yellow gold set with a white mother-of-pearl dial, and diamond-set hour-markers and bezel; Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown, a scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date and a semi-circular three-piece links President bracelet. Powered by a Bidirectional self-winding movement calibre 2236 with a power reserve of 55 hours and is waterproof up to 100 meters.
For him: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36
36mm, 18ct white gold dial set with baguette-cut diamonds on the hour markers, Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown, featuring a fluted bezel with scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date on a semi-circular three-piece links President bracelet. Bidirectional self-winding movement calibre 3255 with a 70-hour power reserve and is waterproof up to 100 meters.
For Her: Omega Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 29mm
29mm, 18k Sedna gold, diamond-paved bezel, sun-brushed blue dial with diamond hour markers and a date window at 6 o’clock within a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal case. The bracelet, hands, OMEGA logo, Constellation star and diamond holders are also in 18K Sedna™ gold. Powered by OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8701 visible through the domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
For Him: Omega Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm
39mm, 18K Sedna gold on leather strap, engraved bezel with Roman numerals, silk-embossed blue dial and a date window at 6 o’clock. The hands, OMEGA logo, Constellation star and indexes are all in 18K Sedna™ gold. Powered by OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8801 visible through the domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
For her: Audemar Piguet Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
42mm, salmon dial with with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating; Titanium case, glareproofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown with Titanium bracelet with AP folding clasp. Hand-Wound Minute repeater Supersonnerie, hours, minutes and small seconds with a 72-hour power reserve.
For him: Audemar Piguet Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
42mm, Black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating; 950 platinum case, glareproofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, hand-stitched “large square scale” black alligator strap with 950 platinum AP folding clasp. Hand-Wound Minute repeater Supersonnerie, hours, minutes and small seconds with a 72-hour power reserve
For Her: Piaget Polo Date High Jewellery watch
36mm, 18k white gold case set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.22 ct), 352 brilliant-cut (1.21 ct) diamond-paved-set dial, crown set with 9 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.02 ct) and bracelet in 18K white gold set with 1315 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.69 cts). Powered by a Manufacture Piaget 500P1 self-winding mechanical movement, visible through its sapphire crystal case back.
For Him: Piaget Polo Chronograph watch
42mm, 18K white gold case set with 178 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.70 cts), 286 brilliant-cut diamond pave (1.0 ct) set dial with blue counters, crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond (0.10 ct), buckle set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.10 ct) on an interchangeable strap. Powered by Manufacture Piaget 1160P self-winding mechanical movement with chronograph and date on Blue-coloured oscillating weight.
For Her: Cartier Tank Louis
30mm, case in 18K white gold set with 254-brilliant-cut diamonds (2.20 ct), beaded crown in 18K white gold-set with brilliant-cut diamond (0.12 ct). Sword-shaped hands in blue steel on a skeleton sapphire dial on fuchsia or burgundy alligator skin and 18K diamond-set white gold double adjustable folding bucket (0.42 ct). Water resistant of up to 30 meters. Calibre 9616 MC, hand-wound mechanical movement with a power reserve of up to approximately three days. Complication fully visible under sapphire crystal and case back.
For Him: Cartier Tank Asymétrique
47.15 mm, platinum case on navy blue or black alligator skinstraps. Buckle and crown set with 251 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.21 ct). Blue-steel sword-shaped hands and Arabic numerals on the hour-markers on skeletonised dial. Manufacture hand-wound mechanical movement with manual winding, calibre 9623 MC (112 parts, 22 jewels) and 48-hour power reserve.
For Her: Longines the record collection 26mm, 18k pink gold, white mother-of-pearl dial with pink hands, 12 Top Wesselton VS-SI diamond-set (o.034 ct) hour-markers, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass and case back on brown alligator strap. COSC self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of 45-hours. Water resistant up to 30 meters.
For Him: Longines Master Collection 40mm, 18 rose gold, anti-wear synthetic sapphier glass and case back, sukver “wheat grain” decoration with blue steel hands and lacquered Arabic numerals on brown alligator strap, L888 self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of 72-hours
For Her: Patek Philippe Twenty~4 7300/1450R
36mm, Rose gold Haute Joaillerie model. 384 diamonds are set on the dial “snow setting” while its bezel, crown and rose gold bracelet are paved with diamonds. Sitting underneath its rose gold case and sapphire-crystal case back is a self-winding movement Calibre 324 S.
For Him: Patek Philippe Calatrava 4978/400G-001
36.5mm, Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie model. 679 diamonds of graduated size forming a spiral is embellished on the dial, while the bezel, crown and bracelet are paved with diamonds. Featuring a white gold case and sapphire-crystal case back that encloses its ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement Caliber 240.
For Her: Jager LeCoultre Reverso Classic Duetto pink gold
21mm, Pink gold, silvered grey dial with vertical satin-brushed and guilloché, black transferred numerals and Bâton hands on the front and frosted numerls with Dauphones hands and frosted numerals on the back dial, finished with diamond settings on the top and bottom edges. Manual-winding movement Jaeger LeCoultre Calibre 844 (223 parts, 19 jewels).
For Him: Jager LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Moon
29.9mm, Stainless Steel with leather strap, silverd grey dial with appliqued hour-markers and dauphones hands with a moon phase and date indicator at 6 o’clock at the front; and dauphoines hands, appliqued hour-marker on Blue, guilloché, velvety Clous de Paris dial at the back. Manual winding movement, Jaeger LeCoultre Calibre 853A (100 parts, 18 jewels).
For Her: Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Cocktail 2-Hand
25.6mm, 18k rose gold, White guilloché dial, black satin strap with a diamond buckle, case set with round brilliant cut diamonds (1.53 ct), Quartz movement. Water resistant up to 30 meters.
For Him: Tiffany & Co. Tiffany 1837 Makers 27mm Square Watch
27mm, 18k rose gold with a rose gold soleil dial, limited edition applied gray Arabic numerals, gray alligator strap, hand-wound mechanical movement with power reserve of 42 hours. Water resistant up to 50 meters.
The high-end watch industry is seemingly enamoured with the adage ‘bigger is better’, as new designs are launched to one-up the competition in terms of dial size and depth. However, those seeking a subtler, more streamlined aesthetic need not despair – several haute-horology brands have drawn back the curtain on more minimalist wrist adornments. Here, we spotlight seven slender timepieces that are more than worth a thorough perusal.
Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve
First up on our list of ultra-thin watches is Omega’s De Ville Trésor Power Reserve in 18K yellow gold. The model that debuted back in 1949 has now been updated to feature a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and a small-seconds sub-dial resting diametrically opposite. While retaining the understated vintage elegance of the original, it comes equipped with an up-to-the-minute movement – the hand-wound Master Chronometer Calibre 8935. Delivering a robust 72-hour power reserve, it nevertheless manages to pack everything into a 10.07mm-thin case.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin
Audemars Piguet has also released new interpretations of a classic design in the form of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin. When its predecessor was launched at the 1972 Baselworld fair, it pretty much birthed the luxury sports watch category. These latest versions, however, are somewhat more sophisticated, thanks to the 1,102 brilliant-cut diamonds punctuating their case, bezel and bracelet. Available with a light blue or black dial in a white or pink gold case, its slimness may be attributed to the self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2121 movement within, whose thickness measures just 3.05mm.
Montblanc Heritage Pythagore Small Second Limited Edition 148
Rounding out our trio of timeless classics made contemporary is Montblanc’s Heritage Pythagore Small Second Limited Edition 148, which was inspired by the historic ’40s-era Minerva Pythagore calibre 48. With that movement as a reference, the engineers at Montblanc developed an all-new, hand-wound 4.07mm Manufacture Calibre MB M14.08 for the new creation, replete with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Available in blue with a white gold case or ‘burnt caramel’ encased in pink gold, both avatars are limited to a release of just 148 pieces.
Panerai Luminor Due
Similarly upscaling an athletic model in a streamlined form is Panerai, with its new Luminor Due boasting an automatic P.900 calibre movement that’s just 4.2mm thick. To ensure this mechanism remains tamper-proof, Panerai has equipped a Safety Lock crown-protection device on the side of its square-shaped bezel. Fitted with a three-day power reserve, this elegant blue-and-steel timepiece comes furnished with a navy sun-brushed dial punctuated with a small seconds sub-dial and a date aperture at nine o’clock and three o’clock respectively. A blue alligator-skin strap rounds out its sporty feel.
Introducing a splash of scarlet to proceedings is Antwerp-headquartered independent manufacture Ressence’s striking Type 1 Slim Red. Unlike traditional dial layouts with hour and minute hands rotating around a central axis, the Type 1 Slim Red’s fascia displays the Ressence Orbital Convex System to tell time. In layman’s terms, it features three separate indicators for hours, seconds and week days. Distinguished with a bold red dial and matching rubber strap, the new model has been slimmed down by some 20 percent since its 2019 debut.
Hermès Slim d’Hermès La Source de Pégase
Elevating colourful dials to literal works of art, Hermès has unveiled the Slim d’Hermès La Source de Pégase, powered by a 2.6mm-thin mechanical self-winding Manufacture Hermès H1950 movement. Drawing on the craft skills of miniature painting, straw marquetry, enamelling and hand-engraving, the delicate dial features a majestic winged horse rearing to strike a rock with its hooves. Two avatars of this vibrant design – a reinterpretation of the eponymous Hermès silk scarf designed by French artist Pierre Marie – are on offer: a yellow Pegasus dial with white strap and an all-blue version. With only 12 of each version to be produced, they’re sure to fly quickly to the hands of discerning collectors.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept
Rounding out our list is Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept “Tribute to La Côte-aux-Fées”. A past master at creating slim designs, the brand almost defies the laws of physics with a timepiece measuring just 2mm thick, roughly the equivalent of a HK$1 coin. The Calibre 900P-UC movement is directly machined onto the cobalt alloy case – which is fronted by an intriguing open-worked dial – in order to achieve this incredible slimness; just 0.12mm separates the workings from the wearer’s skin. A tribute to cutting-edge watchmaking, it proudly claims the title of 2021’s thinnest watch.
Timepiece collection: Luxury skeleton watches to make a powerful statement!
As horological statement pieces, skeleton watches afford aficionados the opportunity to glimpse the precision-engineered movements beneath their transparent dials. Their origins can be traced back to mid-18th century France, and more specifically, to watchmaker André-Charles Caron who created a timepiece that eschewed all the usual window dressing on the dial, leaving a clear view of the mechanism underneath.
Since that moment of clarity, the popularity of skeleton-dial watches has only grown, with haute-horology houses now clamouring to create ever more intricate designs with an open-worked fascia. Here, we highlight seven of the latest crop that merit particular mention.
Rotonde de Cartier by Cartier
First in our list of stunning skeletonised creations is Cartier’s Rotonde de Cartier Astronomystérieux, one of a trio of limited editions that comprise the Rotonde de Cartier Precious Icon Set. Taking place of pride on its transparent dial is the floating Calibre 9462 MC movement suspended inside a tourbillon carriage. This enticing display is housed in a 43.5mm palladium case, encircled by an outer ring featuring Roman-numeral hour markers. Fitted with teal alligator leather straps, only five pieces of this guaranteed collector’s item will ever be made.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-one
Another limited release comes in the form of the newest avatars of Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-one. The Swiss-headquartered watch manufacturer has, in fact, simultaneously released not one, not two, but three different versions – Black Ceramic Green, Black Ceramic Sky Blue, and Plasma Ceramic Yellow. All boast see-through dials that showcase the brand’s iconic ‘figure 8’ motif, with the hour-and-minute dial gracing its top half and a large seconds display located at the 6 o’clock position.
Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Saphire
Then, taking proceedings to dazzlingly transparent heights is Hublot’s Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire. Housed in a virtually scratch-proof sapphire crystal case, its open-worked fascia is dominated by the HUB6035 automatic movement, which is suspended on three transparent sapphire bridges to give the appearance that it is floating in mid-air. If that weren’t enough, even its strap received the see-through treatment – a feat that required 165 separate components – providing this 30-piece limited release with a truly airy appeal.
Piaget Polo Skeleton by Piaget
To capture a sportier look, luxury maison Piaget has unveiled the Piaget Polo Skeleton, a 42mm creation available in either Piaget blue PVD or slate grey. It’s the first time the Polo has gone skeletal, and the brand, which is already renowned for crafting super-slim timepieces, has truly outdone itself. Indeed, the watch’s overall case depth measures just 6.5mm – a remarkable 30 percent thinner than earlier editions.
Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune
A similarly lightweight feel comes courtesy of Hermès’ Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, a beautiful design crafted from ultra-light titanium. Not only does its skeletonised dial show off the super-slim Hermès H1953 Manufacture movement, it’s also the perfect frame to view the double moonphase display at 6 o’clock.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton
Eschewing minimalism for a more outré effect is the 88-piece Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton from noted avant-garde manufacturer Roger Dubuis. Spawned from its ongoing partnership with tyre brand Pirelli, this 45mm black titanium model features an undeniable racing DNA, as evidenced in the tyre-shaped case that houses the RD820SQ automatic skeleton movement.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton
For the ultimate in statement timepieces, though, feast your eyes on Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton. A master class in horological engineering, this 41.5mm white-gold creation houses one of the most intricate complications in the world of fine watchmaking – the perpetual calendar. The feat is all the more impressive given the open-worked design, which by its very nature requires the paring back of all but essential elements on the dial. Boasting supreme technical performance and stunning aesthetics, it truly sets a new bar for skeletonised watches.
Dialing It Up: Unusually shaped watches that bring a fresh perspective on timekeeping
Round or square dials with flat display cases are pretty much the norm in the world of high-end timepieces. A few daring watch manufactures, however, venture beyond these traditional forms, experimenting with domed displays, transparent cases and unusual timekeeping apertures that are as avant-garde as they are stunning.
Here, we cast a discerning eye over the latest crop of unusually shaped wrist adornments.
Cloche de Cartier by Cartier
First on our list is the bell-shaped Cloche de Cartier. Inspired by luxury maison Cartier’s Cloche design of the ’20s, this idiosyncratic creation boasts a bell-shaped case with the dial’s hour markers rotated some 90 degrees from its usual orientation, giving it the aesthetic of a traditional desk clock.
Six different iterations of the new Cloche de Cartier have been unveiled. Versions encased in yellow gold, pink gold and platinum are equipped with a hand-wound 1917 MC movement, while three skeletonised models – available in pink gold, platinum or platinum with diamonds – feature a calibre 9626 MC movement.
Purnell Escape II Absolute Sapphire
Similarly boasting a see-through appeal is Swiss watchmaker Purnell’s Escape II Absolute Sapphire, which claims the honour of being the world’s first-ever double triple-axis tourbillon to be housed in a full sapphire case with movement bridges and a dial crafted from sapphire crystal.
This delightful open-worked motif affords direct views of the intricately engineered double Spherion movement, as well as the six barrels that power it. Just one piece will be made, so this exceptional 48mm watch is a guaranteed collector’s edition.
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Pièce Unique
Another one-of-a-kind model with an unusual case is Vacheron Constantin’s American 1921 Pièce Unique, which the marque has painstakingly recreated from the 1919 original. When that vintage timepiece debuted, it was the world’s first-ever cushion-shaped design, and this unique feature has been revived for its 21st-century descendant.
In keeping with the historic nature of its legacy, almost every component of the watch has been constructed exactly as it would have been a century ago, with even the logo reading a period-accurate ‘Vacheron et Constantin Geneve Suisse’.
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport
Injecting an element of 3D sophistication, meanwhile, is Greubel Forsey’s updated GMT Sport. Certain to appeal to jetsetters, its three-dimensional blue dial is punctuated with a second time zone indicator, a rotating globe with universal time and day-night indicator, and a tourbillon at the 2 o’clock position.
Limited to a release of just 33 pieces in titanium, it sports a distinctive ovoid case that gently curves at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock for a more streamlined look.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Minute Repeater
Not to be outdone, high-end fashion house Louis Vuitton has pulled back the curtain on the Tambour Carpe Diem Minute Repeater, a fantastical horological creation featuring a dominant relief sculpture of a skull on its dial, replete with an intertwining snake. A legion of moving mechanisms stud this truly stunning piece of engineering, be it the snake’s tail that acts as a retrograde seconds indicator, the skull’s jaw gaping open to reveal the words ‘carpe diem’ or the moving lattice that changes the brand’s floral emblem into a star. In short, this is one minute repeater and ‘time on demand’ timepiece that elevates dial art to a whole new strata.
Christophe Claret X-TREM-1
Taking the number one spot on our list of unusually shaped dials is independent Swiss watchmaker Christophe Claret’s X-TREM-1. Having debuted in 2012, this latest edition comes burnished in an eye-catching blue hue. Turning traditional timekeeping completely on its head, it eschews hour and minute hands entirely, instead displaying the time via two orange steel spheres moving up and down demarcated hour and minute displays. Seconds, meanwhile, are indicated by the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which rotates every 30 seconds. Powered by a hand-wound FLY11 mechanical movement that takes place of pride on its open-worked fascia, this remarkable creation represents innovative haute horology at its very best.
Feature image: Vacheron Constantin’s American 1921 Pièce Unique movement assembly
Wrist Candy: Five dazzling high jewellery watches to add to your collection
Although the world of haute horology is, today, a male-dominated sphere, the industry actually owes the rise of wristwatches to demand from the fairer sex. During the late 19th century, when pocket watches were still the norm, it was women who had began adorning their wrists with fashionable gem-studded timepieces. Today, high jewellery watches blend the best of haute horology and high jewellery traditions in utterly stunning expressions that make for captivating timepieces that ensure all eyes are firmly on you…
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Purple Arums The line between art and watchmaking is often blurred when it comes to high jewellery watches, and renowned Swiss horologist Jaeger-LeCoultre plays with this amalgam exceptionally well with its latest Reverso,Purple Arums. Taking inspiration from decorative jewellery worn in the ’20s, the 40mm self-winding wristwatch, powered by the watchmaker’s patented Calibre 846 movement, introduces a truly unique Reverso iteration replete with the model’s iconic double-sided rectangular case. Its vivid floral design seamlessly flows across the rotatable case front, exhibiting a high level of craftsmanship that required a painstaking 95-hour process of gem-setting, enamelling and engraving to create.
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Staying with manual-winding chronographs, Vacheron Constantin celebrates the multiple facets of femininity through its new Égérie self-winding diamond-pavé models. Presented at the Watches & Wonders 2021, the ultra chic and elegantly versatile 35mm jewellery watch is truly worth of being added to the collection of any discerning fashionista. Featuring the maison’s signature off-centre display and asymmetrical geometry (artfully interlace two circles), a total of 574 round-cut diamonds punctuate the dial as well as the watch’s bezel, flanks and lugs, imparting an added sparkle to proceedings.
Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise The next entry on our list of stunning high jewellery watches comes courtesy of Swiss luxury watch and jewellery maker Piaget. The Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise is an automatic movement that features an eye-catching 32mm 18K white gold case and a bezel set with 32 brilliant-cut blue sapphires and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds, all of which were carefully sifted through to create the seamlessly flowing gradient that outlines the snowy, diamond embellished dial mixed with different-sized gemstones — a true beauty for the modern-day woman.
Franck Muller Double Mystery Peony Next up, a marriage between haute horology and haute couture comes through a combination of technical innovation and the art of watchmaking – the intricately detailed Double Mystery Peony from Swiss horology brand Frank Muller. The 42mm mechanical complication, powered by a 42 DM PEONY D 2R CD movement, boasts a gorgeous gem-studded dial replete with 662 brilliant-cut diamonds and precious stones, all of which were painstakingly hand-set. Further accentuating its avant-garde aesthetics are the hour and minute indicators, which are placed on rotating discs at its centre.
Cartier Libre Baignoire Turtle Rounding out our list of high jewellery watches is luxury maison Cartier’s limited-edition Libre Baignoire Turtle watch. Taking inspiration from its 2019 Baignoire predecessor, just 30 pieces of this masterclass in jewellery watchmaking will be produced. Playful, sophisticated and all-but-guaranteed to ensnare any passing gaze, its geometric motif is punctuated with anthracite, buff-topped sapphires and pavé diamonds that together call to mind the scaling of a turtle’s shell.
Turbulent Time: Stand-out precision timepieces
While the Covid-19 pandemic may be continuing to confine the world to the most turbulent of times, that hasn’t proven any bar to innovation within the wider haute horology industry. In fact, many of the most high-profile Swiss marques have flown in the face of adversity and launched a staggering array of new precision timepieces over recent months, with seven meriting particular scrutiny…
Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier
First up is Cartier’s new Pasha de Cartier 41mm, the latest iteration of the brand’s iconic ’80s cult classic, which it relaunched last year. Boasting an undeniably Baroque aesthetic, this new 41mm incarnation comes fitted with a rotating bezel and a trio of blue cabochons gracing its crown and chrono pushers, while being available in two different versions – a gold edition with grey and blue alligator leather straps and a burnished steel take with a matching strap / bracelet. Both come fitted with Cartier’s signature QuickSwitch system as standard, allowing easy switching between your chosen fastenings.
41mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph
Again in a 41mm size is renowned watchmaker Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph. Powered by a self-winding calibre 4401 movement, complete with a column wheel and a flyback function, its black-on-rose gold aesthetic boasts an undeniably sleek appeal. Fetchingly, its middle case is crafted from black ceramic for a great lightweight feel, while atop sits its smoked grey lacquered dial and three recessed subdials. Also available in a white gold iteration, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm comes fitted with black textile straps, tempering its overall look with a subtle casual flair.
Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar from Lange & Sohne
Third in this month’s assembly of noteworthies is the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar from A. Lange & Sohne. A high complication watch, it has intriguingly eschewed all ostentation in favour of sleek minimalist lines, at least as minimalist as a perpetual calendar can ever really be. Powered by a calibre L021.3 movement, its grey dial features a date aperture, day counter, and a combined day-night-cum-moonphase-indicator, all encircled by a rotating month gauge.The brand has also released a 150-piece limited edition with an unusual salmon-pink dial.
Tudor Black Bay Chrono
Adding a distinctly vintage aura to proceedings, meanwhile, are the two latest Black Bay Chrono timepieces from Swiss watchmaker Tudor.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Channeling the eternal appeal of sister brand Rolex’s Daytona, these chronographs are noticeably slimmer, more modern expressions of that iconic sports watch. In another key difference, a black tachymeter bezel rings the buyer’s choice of a white dial with recessed black subdials – reminiscent of a panda’s face – or a black fascia with white subdials. Interestingly, in addition to the traditional stainless-steel straps, there’s also the option of either a more athletic fabric strap or a leather bund bracelet, with the latter bequeathing something of a racing driver feel.
Staying with Daytonas, Rolex has served up an almost out-of-this-world creation in the form of its new Cosmograph Daytona. Under its hood beats a calibre 4130 movement, which brings its ever-reliable power reserve to this classic chronograph, with the addition of a 60-second, 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Lovingly adorned with a stunning crystalline meteorite dial, this guaranteed collector’s item comes in three models – yellow, white or the brand’s proprietary Everose gold.
Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer by Omega
Another outer space-inspired horological wonder comes courtesy of the very brand that famously furnished the Apollo 11 team with their timepieces – Omega. In a significant move, the latest generation of the first watch to land on the moon, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer, has been given its first new movement since 1996 – the Co-Axial Calibre 3861. Furthermore, in order to aptly celebrate the 50th anniversary of the brand’s partnership with NASA, athletic-style Velcro straps emblazoned with the latter’s logo have been added into the mix.
DB28XP Meteorite from De Bethune
The final celestially-inclined wrist adornment comes courtesy of independent Swiss manufacture De Bethune, with its DB28XP Meteorite perfectly encapsulating avant-garde watchmaking at its very finest. Fronted by a most otherworldly blue meteorite dial – inevitably calling to mind a starry night sky – it’s fetchingly ringed with Arabic numeral hour markers, all finely housed within an ultra lightweight black zirconium case. Available in a limited edition of just 10, buyers can even opt to have the star constellation of their choice emblazoned across the dial.
Miss Time: The wonder that is the world of women’s watches…
Once, not too long ago, the world of haute horology was dominated solely by masculine designs, with their ‘lesser’ female counterparts at best an afterthought. With the rise of womankind across the workforce – and indeed, in every other aspect of contemporary life – leading watch manufactures have risen to meet growing demand for ever more complex femme-focused timepieces. Of the latest such models on offer, seven in particular deserve special mention.
Vacheron Constantin’s Égérie Self-Winding
The first of these comes in the form of Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918, the latest iteration of a timepiece created in celebration of Napoleon’s younger sister, Caroline Murat. Knowing her to be a long-time admirer of the brand and a haute horological enthusiast, founder Abraham-Louis Breguet crafted the original, with its distinctive oval dial, very much in her honour. Burnished with a mother-of-pearl dial, its scarlet-hued appeal stems from its oversized Arabic numeral hour markers, ruby pusher and red alligator leather straps. Adding an extra element of allure are the 117 brilliant-cut diamonds that adorn its bezel, with the entire timepiece powered by a self-winding calibre 537/3 movement, clearly visible through its wholly transparent sapphire crystal caseback.
Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918
Another red-dominant watch has comes courtesy of Vacheron Constantin, with its Égérie Self-Winding model similarly fitted with a diamond-studded bezel and red leather straps. In this instance, however, this particular haute horology master has opted to craft the case and hour markers in a lush pink gold, creating quite a contrasting effect. Adding to its appeal, an unusual off-centre subdial – also encircled by glistening diamonds – between 1 o’clock and 2 o’clock serves as the date indicator. The Égérie is also available with black straps and in a stainless steel-white gold incarnation.
Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual models For a flexible yet chic everyday option, meanwhile, you could do far worse than check out famed watch manufacture Rolex’s new line of Oyster Perpetual creations. Available in either a 41mm or a more subtle 36mm edition, both come adorned with dials in a veritable array of vivid colours, ranging from black and green to far brighter coral, turquoise blue and candy pink models. All come with the latest Calibre 3230 movement – which was just unveiled last year – as standard, and are rounded out with the brand’s iconic Oyster bracelet.
Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition
Next on our list is a more outré interpretation of the truly femme-focused timepiece – the Joséphine Aigrette from luxury brand Chaumet. With no buckle or clasp to be seen, instead it comes enticingly equipped with an assortment of leather or satin bracelet straps, additions that elegantly grace any wrist. The dial proper, meanwhile, has been crafted in a unique tear-drop shape and imbued with a striking minimalist appeal, with its sole adornments consisting of miniature hour and minute hands, as well, of course, as the brand’s distinguished logo.
Chaumet’s Joséphine Aigrette
Serving up another stunning creation – albeit one with a starry twist – is haute couture label Hermès’ newly unveiled Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs. Inevitably bringing to mind thoughts of a twinkling night sky, its pale mother-of-pearl dial has been sprinkled with 87 blue sapphires and 68 white diamonds, an adornment that extends to the bezel. Underneath the hood, meanwhile, beats a calibre H1837 self-winding movement, powering a date indicator at 6 o’clock and a beautiful moon phase indicator at the top half of its fascia.
Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Spider
Similarly embodying an off-centre motif is Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition, which marks the first time the maison has offered this grand complication in a smaller 38mm diameter lady-friendly version. A past master at crafting super slim timepieces, Piaget has clearly not skimped on precision engineering this time around either. Sitting pretty on its sunray-engraved mother-of-pearl dial is an ultra-thin flying tourbillon at 2 o’clock, which is mirrored by an hour-and-minute counter that together form a lucky figure ‘8’ and infinity symbol. Limited to a release of just 88 pieces, a diamond-studded bezel completes its elegant appeal.
Hermès’ Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs
For those in search of a true statement piece, our final recommendation – the Excalibur Spider by Roger Dubuis – is truly a must. Crafted in a dazzling collision of high-octane racing lines-meets-haute horology, this avant-garde gold and white creation truly exemplifies cutting-edge watchmaking for women. With a dial punctuated by a star-shaped motif, the jewel in its crown is undeniably its flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock, a feature that has elegantly displayed via the clever incorporation of a delightful open-worked aesthetic. Deftly balancing beautiful form with precision-engineered function, it’s sure to appeal to any watch-loving fashionista.
Wrist Candy: A sneak peek at the latest 2021 novelty watches
Each year, the world’s leading haute horology brands unveil a slew of new designs, tempting timepieces that will set the trend for the industry and its legions of fans in the months to come. Below, we highlight some of the most outstanding 2021 novelty watches to feast your eyes on…
Corum Admiral 45 Automatic Tourbillon
First to make the cut is the Admiral 45 Openworked Flying Tourbillon by Swiss watchmaker Corum. An arresting marriage between avant-garde stylings and precision engineering, the automatic chronometer proudly blends classic design with a modern nautical motif that is sure to win over the hearts of ocean-going watch connoisseurs around the world. The dynamic 45mm carbon and 18K gold-glitter case affords view on both sides of the dial, including the artisanal mastery that went into meticulously finished components of the rotating flying tourbillon escapement C0 298 taking place of pride at 6 o’clock.
Longines Avigation BigEye Next up is the Avigation BigEye by Swiss luxury watchmaker Longines, which impresses with a striking grained and shaded petrol blue dial burnished with Arabic numeral hour markers. Multifunctional to the extreme, it boasts a small-seconds counter at 9 0’clock, a 12-hour measure at the bottom half of its fascia, and an intriguing 30-minute scale at 3 o’clock. Unabashedly boasting vintage pilot-watch appeal, this 41mm titanium case houses a self-winding calibre L688 mechanical movement with a silicon balance-spring and sits handsomely on any gentleman’s wrist.
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm Intertwining uncompromising craftsmanship with bold aesthetics, world-renowned mechanical watchmaker Audemars Piguet has pulled back the curtains on a new41mm self-winding iteration of its iconic Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm. Powered by a self-winding calibre 4401 movement replete with a column wheel and a flyback function, its black-on-rose gold aesthetic presents an undeniably sleek appeal. Here, the middle case is crafted from black ceramic for a great lighweight feel, while atop its smoked grey lacquered dial lie three recessed subdials. Also available in a white gold iteration, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm comes fitted with black textile straps that temper its overall look with a subtle casual flair.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Turning to watches for the ladies, the Seamaster Aqua Terra by Swiss luxury watchmaker Omega is a timepiece that embodies lushious feminine elegance at its very finest. With a dazzling diamond-set bezel and hour markers crafted from precious rubies, this blushing wrist adornment’s dial is further enhanced with a wave-patterned pink dial. Presented in a 34mm stainless steel or 18K Sedna gold case, this delightful homage to womanhood is powered by a Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 movement.
Cartier Panthère Songeuse Long renowned for creating the finest timepieces for discerning female collectors, Cartier’s new Panthère Songeuse does not disappoint. A dazzling statement piece in every sense of the word, this ostentatious gem-laden creation features the brand’s emblematic feline draped across the top of its fascia, replete with a pair of pear-cut emerald eyes, black onyx nose and sapphire spots. The multi-ringed motif of this sparkling 28.4mm timepiece draws attention to the pave-set diamonds, ensuring all eyes will undoubtedly be on its sophisticated wearer.
Tourbillon and on: The continual rise of the world’s favourite gravity defying watch…
When renowned watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon back in 1795, it was rightly hailed as a revolution in the horological arts. After all, this tiny mechanism – a genius bit of engineering that houses the escapement and balance wheel in a continuously rotating cage – counteracts the effects of gravity by continuously correcting any positional errors. This innovative mechanism ensured that the popular pocket watches of the day – worn vertically and hitherto susceptible to gravity-derived inaccuracies – told precisely the right time no matter where they were positioned.
In the contemporary, wristwatch-favouring era, of course, tourbillons are inevitably a little less indispensable. This, though, has in no way diminished their appeal to the more discerning collector, with haute horology houses subsequently never more keen to unveil ever-more ornate iterations of the original design. While their numbers truly are legion, seven in particular merit especial consideration…
First up is the somewhat unconventional DB Kind of Two Tourbillon, a relatively new offering from independent Swiss watch manufacture De Bethune, which boasts not one but two distinct faces on its 42.8mm titanium pivoting case. On one side lies a traditional blue-on-white guilloché watch face with Arabic hour markers ringed by a seconds indicator. The reverse dial, though, is all about contemporary appeal, with a lovingly crafted titanium Ultra-light De Bethune 30” tourbillon taking pride of place at 6 o’clock. Blending the past and present with true aplomb, extra-supple alligator straps complete its appeal.
A more futuristic twist, meanwhile, comes courtesy of Chopard with its new Mille Miglia Lab One. Conceived as a concept watch and a homage to the high-performance race cars of Italy’s famous Mille Miglia race, this stunning timepiece has been crafted from ultra-lightweight black bead-blasted titanium. The brand’s first self-winding tourbillon chronometer, under the hood of this 20-piece limited release can be found a Chopard 04.03-M movement, effortlessly powering a titanium tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
Similarly opting for an ever so cool all-black aesthetic is the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, which is now available from the indisputably luxurious Bulgari brand. Fetchingly, its noir fascia comes fitted with an open-worked metallic grille, allowing a fascinating glimpse of its new BVL428 manual-winding movement. Housed in a black DLC titanium case, this 44mm timepiece effectively combines both a tourbillon and a three-hammer case while maintaining a minimalist – almost industrial – flair.
Deservedly meriting our fourth slot is the stunningly slim Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Moon from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which comes complete with a classic white-on-rose gold motif. Unashamedly taking tourbillon stylings to a new height – quite literally – this elegant wrist adornment’s flying tourbillon is paired with a moon phase aperture ringed by a jumping date indicator at the top of the dial. The design’s thinness – something of a signature look for JLC – belies the complexity of its engineering and measures a scant 12.1mm.
Another precision engineering masterpiece setting its sights on the skies is the Code 11:59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon, with its 18K pink gold case – burnished with a shimmering black aventurine dial reminiscent of a star-lit night sky – making it a real standout. Equipped with a Calibre 2950 movement that combines a flying tourbillon with a central rotor, this 41mm timepiece is also available as a white gold-blue aventurine avatar.
For those in search of something a little more outré, German luxury label Montblanc’s new Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition 8 skeletonised tourbillon timepiece delivers in spades. Its innovative open-worked approach, for instance, affords direct views into the inner workings of its Calibre M B M 18.69 movement – a mechanism comprising 188 disparate parts, all lovingly handcrafted by the maison’s skilled artisans. Its dial proper, meanwhile, has been neatly bisected, with an off-centre hour-and-minute dial at 12 o’clock perfectly balancing the Exo Tourbillon on its southern hemisphere. As its name suggests, this fine example of haute horology is available in a limited edition of just eight.
A true statement timepiece, however, concludes this month’s round-up – Vacheron Constantin’s recently-unveiled Traditionnelle Tourbillon Qilin. Launched to welcome the Lunar New Year, its hand-guillochéd black dial comes elaborately burnished with a pair of matching hand-engraved Qilin – the mythical hooved chimeric creature of Chinese legend. The tourbillon proper at 6 o’clock, meanwhile, comes fitted with a small seconds indicator and sits beneath a gold-accented power-reserve indicator. A perfect blend of precision engineering and gorgeous aesthetics, this is a future collector’s piece in waiting.
