Turbulent Time: Stand-out precision timepieces

While the Covid-19 pandemic may be continuing to confine the world to the most turbulent of times, that hasn’t proven any bar to innovation within the wider haute horology industry. In fact, many of the most high-profile Swiss marques have flown in the face of adversity and launched a staggering array of new precision timepieces over recent months, with seven meriting particular scrutiny…

Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier
First up is Cartier’s new Pasha de Cartier 41mm, the latest iteration of the brand’s iconic ’80s cult classic, which it relaunched last year. Boasting an undeniably Baroque aesthetic, this new 41mm incarnation comes fitted with a rotating bezel and a trio of blue cabochons gracing its crown and chrono pushers, while being available in two different versions – a gold edition with grey and blue alligator leather straps and a burnished steel take with a matching strap / bracelet. Both come fitted with Cartier’s signature QuickSwitch system as standard, allowing easy switching between your chosen fastenings.

41mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph
Again in a 41mm size is renowned watchmaker Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph. Powered by a self-winding calibre 4401 movement, complete with a column wheel and a flyback function, its black-on-rose gold aesthetic boasts an undeniably sleek appeal. Fetchingly, its middle case is crafted from black ceramic for a great lightweight feel, while atop sits its smoked grey lacquered dial and three recessed subdials. Also available in a white gold iteration, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm comes fitted with black textile straps, tempering its overall look with a subtle casual flair.

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar from Lange & Sohne
Third in this month’s assembly of noteworthies is the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar from A. Lange & Sohne. A high complication watch, it has intriguingly eschewed all ostentation in favour of sleek minimalist lines, at least as minimalist as a perpetual calendar can ever really be. Powered by a calibre L021.3 movement, its grey dial features a date aperture, day counter, and a combined day-night-cum-moonphase-indicator, all encircled by a rotating month gauge.The brand has also released a 150-piece limited edition with an unusual salmon-pink dial.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono
Adding a distinctly vintage aura to proceedings, meanwhile, are the two latest Black Bay Chrono timepieces from Swiss watchmaker Tudor.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Channeling the eternal appeal of sister brand Rolex’s Daytona, these chronographs are noticeably slimmer, more modern expressions of that iconic sports watch. In another key difference, a black tachymeter bezel rings the buyer’s choice of a white dial with recessed black subdials – reminiscent of a panda’s face – or a black fascia with white subdials. Interestingly, in addition to the traditional stainless-steel straps, there’s also the option of either a more athletic fabric strap or a leather bund bracelet, with the latter bequeathing something of a racing driver feel.

Staying with Daytonas, Rolex has served up an almost out-of-this-world creation in the form of its new Cosmograph Daytona. Under its hood beats a calibre 4130 movement, which brings its ever-reliable power reserve to this classic chronograph, with the addition of a 60-second, 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Lovingly adorned with a stunning crystalline meteorite dial, this guaranteed collector’s item comes in three models – yellow, white or the brand’s proprietary Everose gold.

Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer by Omega
Another outer space-inspired horological wonder comes courtesy of the very brand that famously furnished the Apollo 11 team with their timepieces – Omega. In a significant move, the latest generation of the first watch to land on the moon, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer, has been given its first new movement since 1996 – the Co-Axial Calibre 3861. Furthermore, in order to aptly celebrate the 50th anniversary of the brand’s partnership with NASA, athletic-style Velcro straps emblazoned with the latter’s logo have been added into the mix.

DB28XP Meteorite from De Bethune
The final celestially-inclined wrist adornment comes courtesy of independent Swiss manufacture De Bethune, with its DB28XP Meteorite perfectly encapsulating avant-garde watchmaking at its very finest. Fronted by a most otherworldly blue meteorite dial – inevitably calling to mind a starry night sky – it’s fetchingly ringed with Arabic numeral hour markers, all finely housed within an ultra lightweight black zirconium case. Available in a limited edition of just 10, buyers can even opt to have the star constellation of their choice emblazoned across the dial.

Miss Time: The wonder that is the world of women’s watches…

Once, not too long ago, the world of haute horology was dominated solely by masculine designs, with their ‘lesser’ female counterparts at best an afterthought. With the rise of womankind across the workforce – and indeed, in every other aspect of contemporary life – leading watch manufactures have risen to meet growing demand for ever more complex femme-focused timepieces. Of the latest such models on offer, seven in particular deserve special mention.

Vacheron Constantin’s Égérie Self-Winding
The first of these comes in the form of Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918, the latest iteration of a timepiece created in celebration of Napoleon’s younger sister, Caroline Murat. Knowing her to be a long-time admirer of the brand and a haute horological enthusiast, founder Abraham-Louis Breguet crafted the original, with its distinctive oval dial, very much in her honour. Burnished with a mother-of-pearl dial, its scarlet-hued appeal stems from its oversized Arabic numeral hour markers, ruby pusher and red alligator leather straps. Adding an extra element of allure are the 117 brilliant-cut diamonds that adorn its bezel, with the entire timepiece powered by a self-winding calibre 537/3 movement, clearly visible through its wholly transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918
Another red-dominant watch has comes courtesy of Vacheron Constantin, with its Égérie Self-Winding model similarly fitted with a diamond-studded bezel and red leather straps. In this instance, however, this particular haute horology master has opted to craft the case and hour markers in a lush pink gold, creating quite a contrasting effect. Adding to its appeal, an unusual off-centre subdial – also encircled by glistening diamonds – between 1 o’clock and 2 o’clock serves as the date indicator. The Égérie is also available with black straps and in a stainless steel-white gold incarnation.

Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual models
For a flexible yet chic everyday option, meanwhile, you could do far worse than check out famed watch manufacture Rolex’s new line of Oyster Perpetual creations. Available in either a 41mm or a more subtle 36mm edition, both come adorned with dials in a veritable array of vivid colours, ranging from black and green to far brighter coral, turquoise blue and candy pink models. All come with the latest Calibre 3230 movement – which was just unveiled last year – as standard, and are rounded out with the brand’s iconic Oyster bracelet.

Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition
Next on our list is a more outré interpretation of the truly femme-focused timepiece – the Joséphine Aigrette from luxury brand Chaumet. With no buckle or clasp to be seen, instead it comes enticingly equipped with an assortment of leather or satin bracelet straps, additions that elegantly grace any wrist. The dial proper, meanwhile, has been crafted in a unique tear-drop shape and imbued with a striking minimalist appeal, with its sole adornments consisting of miniature hour and minute hands, as well, of course, as the brand’s distinguished logo.

Chaumet’s Joséphine Aigrette
Serving up another stunning creation – albeit one with a starry twist – is haute couture label Hermès’ newly unveiled Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs. Inevitably bringing to mind thoughts of a twinkling night sky, its pale mother-of-pearl dial has been sprinkled with 87 blue sapphires and 68 white diamonds, an adornment that extends to the bezel. Underneath the hood, meanwhile, beats a calibre H1837 self-winding movement, powering a date indicator at 6 o’clock and a beautiful moon phase indicator at the top half of its fascia.

Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Spider
Similarly embodying an off-centre motif is Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition, which marks the first time the maison has offered this grand complication in a smaller 38mm diameter lady-friendly version. A past master at crafting super slim timepieces, Piaget has clearly not skimped on precision engineering this time around either. Sitting pretty on its sunray-engraved mother-of-pearl dial is an ultra-thin flying tourbillon at 2 o’clock, which is mirrored by an hour-and-minute counter that together form a lucky figure ‘8’ and infinity symbol. Limited to a release of just 88 pieces, a diamond-studded bezel completes its elegant appeal.

Hermès’ Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs
For those in search of a true statement piece, our final recommendation – the Excalibur Spider by Roger Dubuis – is truly a must. Crafted in a dazzling collision of high-octane racing lines-meets-haute horology, this avant-garde gold and white creation truly exemplifies cutting-edge watchmaking for women. With a dial punctuated by a star-shaped motif, the jewel in its crown is undeniably its flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock, a feature that has elegantly displayed via the clever incorporation of a delightful open-worked aesthetic. Deftly balancing beautiful form with precision-engineered function, it’s sure to appeal to any watch-loving fashionista.

Wrist Candy: A sneak peek at the latest 2021 novelty watches

Each year, the world’s leading haute horology brands unveil a slew of new designs, tempting timepieces that will set the trend for the industry and its legions of fans in the months to come. Below, we highlight some of the most outstanding 2021 novelty watches to feast your eyes on…

Corum Admiral 45 Automatic Tourbillon
First to make the cut is the Admiral 45 Openworked Flying Tourbillon by Swiss watchmaker Corum. An arresting marriage between avant-garde stylings and precision engineering, the automatic chronometer proudly blends classic design with a modern nautical motif that is sure to win over the hearts of ocean-going watch connoisseurs around the world. The dynamic 45mm carbon and 18K gold-glitter case affords view on both sides of the dial, including the artisanal mastery that went into meticulously finished components of the rotating flying tourbillon escapement C0 298 taking place of pride at 6 o’clock.

Longines Avigation BigEye
Next up is the Avigation BigEye by Swiss luxury watchmaker Longines, which impresses with a striking grained and shaded petrol blue dial burnished with Arabic numeral hour markers. Multifunctional to the extreme, it boasts a small-seconds counter at 9 0’clock, a 12-hour measure at the bottom half of its fascia, and an intriguing 30-minute scale at 3 o’clock. Unabashedly boasting vintage pilot-watch appeal, this 41mm titanium case houses a self-winding calibre L688 mechanical movement with a silicon balance-spring and sits handsomely on any gentleman’s wrist.

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm
Intertwining uncompromising craftsmanship with bold aesthetics, world-renowned mechanical watchmaker Audemars Piguet has pulled back the curtains on a new41mm self-winding iteration of its iconic Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm. Powered by a self-winding calibre 4401 movement replete with a column wheel and a flyback function, its black-on-rose gold aesthetic presents an undeniably sleek appeal. Here, the middle case is crafted from black ceramic for a great lighweight feel, while atop its smoked grey lacquered dial lie three recessed subdials. Also available in a white gold iteration, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm comes fitted with black textile straps that temper its overall look with a subtle casual flair.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra
Turning to watches for the ladies, the Seamaster Aqua Terra by Swiss luxury watchmaker Omega is a timepiece that embodies lushious feminine elegance at its very finest. With a dazzling diamond-set bezel and hour markers crafted from precious rubies, this blushing wrist adornment’s dial is further enhanced with a wave-patterned pink dial. Presented in a 34mm stainless steel or 18K Sedna gold case, this delightful homage to womanhood is powered by a Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 movement.

Cartier Panthère Songeuse
Long renowned for creating the finest timepieces for discerning female collectors, Cartier’s new Panthère Songeuse does not disappoint. A dazzling statement piece in every sense of the word, this ostentatious gem-laden creation features the brand’s emblematic feline draped across the top of its fascia, replete with a pair of pear-cut emerald eyes, black onyx nose and sapphire spots. The multi-ringed motif of this sparkling 28.4mm timepiece draws attention to the pave-set diamonds, ensuring all eyes will undoubtedly be on its sophisticated wearer.

Tourbillon and on: The continual rise of the world’s favourite gravity defying watch…

When renowned watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon back in 1795, it was rightly hailed as a revolution in the horological arts. After all, this tiny mechanism – a genius bit of engineering that houses the escapement and balance wheel in a continuously rotating cage – counteracts the effects of gravity by continuously correcting any positional errors. This innovative mechanism ensured that the popular pocket watches of the day – worn vertically and hitherto susceptible to gravity-derived inaccuracies – told precisely the right time no matter where they were positioned.

In the contemporary, wristwatch-favouring era, of course, tourbillons are inevitably a little less indispensable. This, though, has in no way diminished their appeal to the more discerning collector, with haute horology houses subsequently never more keen to unveil ever-more ornate iterations of the original design. While their numbers truly are legion, seven in particular merit especial consideration…

First up is the somewhat unconventional DB Kind of Two Tourbillon, a relatively new offering from independent Swiss watch manufacture De Bethune, which boasts not one but two distinct faces on its 42.8mm titanium pivoting case. On one side lies a traditional blue-on-white guilloché watch face with Arabic hour markers ringed by a seconds indicator. The reverse dial, though, is all about contemporary appeal, with a lovingly crafted titanium Ultra-light De Bethune 30” tourbillon taking pride of place at 6 o’clock. Blending the past and present with true aplomb, extra-supple alligator straps complete its appeal.

A more futuristic twist, meanwhile, comes courtesy of Chopard with its new Mille Miglia Lab One. Conceived as a concept watch and a homage to the high-performance race cars of Italy’s famous Mille Miglia race, this stunning timepiece has been crafted from ultra-lightweight black bead-blasted titanium. The brand’s first self-winding tourbillon chronometer, under the hood of this 20-piece limited release can be found a Chopard 04.03-M movement, effortlessly powering a titanium tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

Similarly opting for an ever so cool all-black aesthetic is the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, which is now available from the indisputably luxurious Bulgari brand. Fetchingly, its noir fascia comes fitted with an open-worked metallic grille, allowing a fascinating glimpse of its new BVL428 manual-winding movement. Housed in a black DLC titanium case, this 44mm timepiece effectively combines both a tourbillon and a three-hammer case while maintaining a minimalist – almost industrial – flair.

Deservedly meriting our fourth slot is the stunningly slim Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Moon from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which comes complete with a classic white-on-rose gold motif. Unashamedly taking tourbillon stylings to a new height – quite literally – this elegant wrist adornment’s flying tourbillon is paired with a moon phase aperture ringed by a jumping date indicator at the top of the dial. The design’s thinness – something of a signature look for JLC – belies the complexity of its engineering and measures a scant 12.1mm.

Another precision engineering masterpiece setting its sights on the skies is the Code 11:59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon, with its 18K pink gold case – burnished with a shimmering black aventurine dial reminiscent of a star-lit night sky – making it a real standout. Equipped with a Calibre 2950 movement that combines a flying tourbillon with a central rotor, this 41mm timepiece is also available as a white gold-blue aventurine avatar.

For those in search of something a little more outré, German luxury label Montblanc’s new Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition 8 skeletonised tourbillon timepiece delivers in spades. Its innovative open-worked approach, for instance, affords direct views into the inner workings of its Calibre M B M 18.69 movement – a mechanism comprising 188 disparate parts, all lovingly handcrafted by the maison’s skilled artisans. Its dial proper, meanwhile, has been neatly bisected, with an off-centre hour-and-minute dial at 12 o’clock perfectly balancing the Exo Tourbillon on its southern hemisphere. As its name suggests, this fine example of haute horology is available in a limited edition of just eight.

A true statement timepiece, however, concludes this month’s round-up – Vacheron Constantin’s recently-unveiled Traditionnelle Tourbillon Qilin. Launched to welcome the Lunar New Year, its hand-guillochéd black dial comes elaborately burnished with a pair of matching hand-engraved Qilin – the mythical hooved chimeric creature of Chinese legend. The tourbillon proper at 6 o’clock, meanwhile, comes fitted with a small seconds indicator and sits beneath a gold-accented power-reserve indicator. A perfect blend of precision engineering and gorgeous aesthetics, this is a future collector’s piece in waiting.

Buffalo O’clock: Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. On clocks.

Many in the West and beyond welcomed in their New Year on 1 January, all no doubt happy to bid adieu to the travails of 2020 and welcome the next 12 months with the hope of better things to come. For many others – in fact, for about a fifth of the global population – the real celebrations, of course, begin on Friday, 12 February this year, the first day of Chinese New Year.

Hoping to take full advantage of the upcoming festivities, several of the world’s leading haute horology houses have turned their eye to creating special 2021 timepieces as they look to usher in the Year of the Ox. Among the many models jostling for attention, seven merit particular mention.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. vacheron constantin — Vacheron Constantin’s The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox

First up is one of the newest addition to Swiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin’s Metiers d’Art collection – The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox. Inspired by jian zhi, a Chinese paper-cutting technique, its beautiful blue fascia features cut-out apertures for its day, date, hour and minute indicators. Available with either a blue or bronze-toned dial, taking pride of place in the centre of both variants is a lovingly engraved rendering of this mightiest of zodiac animals.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. blacpain front traditional chinese calendar — Blancpain’s Traditional Chinese Calendar

Eschewing the Gregorian calendar in favour of the Chinese version, meanwhile, is Blancpain’s aptly named Traditional Chinese Calendar. Its Arabic numeral date indicators and Roman numeral hour markers notwithstanding, this timepiece truly embraces the Chinese lunisolar calendar with its showcase of an array of traditional facets, including the zodiac signs, the five elements and the ten heavenly stems. The product of five long years of research and development, the 45mm watch is available in red gold as well as a 50-piece limited-edition platinum avatar.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. harvey winston — Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic 36mm

Inserting some sparkle to proceedings, meanwhile, is renowned jeweller Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic 36mm. Designed with diamond-loving ladies very much in mind, this dazzling creation forefronts a vivid red mother-of-pearl dial, ably accentuated by a diamond-studded ox. As if that weren’t enough, the bezel of its rose gold case has also been given a diamond upgrade, with stunning red leather straps completing its festive appeal.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Piaget_Altiplano_Chinese New Year — Piaget’s Altiplano Year of the Ox

Boasting a similar diamond-studded bezel design is the Altiplano Year of the Ox, which is available from Swiss luxury maison Piaget, complete with a magnificently muscular ox fronting its gleaming white dial. This rugged zodiac symbol has been painstakingly rendered in Grand Feu cloisonne enamelling by master enameller Anita Porchet using a process that sees the dial fired at high temperatures repeatedly in order to ensure the image is perfectly captured, before being varnished to ensure longevity. Housed in a super-slim case – one the brand’s signature flourishes – the whole ensemble is powered by a cutting-edge 430P hand-wound movement.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox” — Breguet’s Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox”

Another bovine-inspired wristwatch comes courtesy of the French-founded luxury label Breguet, with its new Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox” featuring two buffalo bulls on an exquisite handcrafted dial. In order to capture the true vivacity of these magnificent beasts, the gold coating of each rendering has been electroplated multiple times, creating four contrasting shades. The hooves and horns, meanwhile, have been crafted in white gold, with the beauty of the piece standing as apt testament to the skill of Breguet’s craftsmen.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Chopard LUC Urushi Year of the Ox — Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox

Building on the golden ox motif – albeit with a distinctly outré approach – is Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox. Here, the dial has been painstakingly fashioned using Urushi, a traditional Japanese lacquerware technique that uses continuously applied layers of lacquer and gold powder to great effect. The resultant fascia features a lushly coated ox pulling a wagon across the land. Coming with a 65-hour power reserve as standard, only 88 of these simply stunning timepieces will ever be made available.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.PETITE HEURE MINUTE RELIEF BUFFALO_FRONT jaquet droz — Jaquet Droz’s Petite Heure Minute Buffalo

An even more exclusive creation – with just eight available in red gold and a further eight in white gold – is the Petite Heure Minute Buffalo, the latest work from renowned watchmaker Jaquet Droz. Featuring an onyx dial, it also boasts an enchanting top-mounted relief-engraved buffalo strolling along a plum tree on a raised tableau, all delivered through the wonder of hand-engraved gold appliqué work. Both variants measure 41mm in diameter, with the white gold style further accentuated with a gem-set bezel and lugs. From the symbolism of the imagery and the emblematic ox to the use of gold throughout, this stunning timepiece stands is the perfect tribute to the Year of the Metal Ox.

Prime Time: The best watches from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve

For some 20 years now, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) has been seen as one of the world’s preeminent haute horology events. Dedicated to celebrating and promoting the watchmaking art around the world, its annual awards presentation spotlights the most stunningly innovative and precision-engineered timepieces created by both major brands and independent manufacturers. This year, for the first time, a new body – the GPHG Academy, an assembly of 350 key watch industry specialists – determined the winners. In all, 84 timepieces were nominated across 14 categories, with seven of the most outstanding showcased below…

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prize

Taking home this year’s top prize, Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept was the product of six long years of development by the brand’s in-house Research and Innovation division. Just 2mm deep, it is said to be the thinnest mechanical watch in the world. In order to facilitate its super-slim design, its case and movement have been merged into one, alongside an integrated winding crown and ultra-thin sapphire crystal. Turning traditional watchmaking conventions completely on their head, Piaget eschewed the use of gold in favour of a new, doubly strong cobalt-based alloy for specific machine components. It also crafted a lightweight mainspring barrel and created a patented ‘staggered’ winding stem as a means of accommodating the dial’s off-centre position.

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize

Embodying undeniable beauty and mechanical creativity, Charles Girardier’s Tourbillon Signature Mysterieuse <<fleur de sel>> was the clear winner in the Ladies’ Complication Watch category. A welcome addition to the ever-burgeoning ranks of complex femme-focused timepieces, its blue enamel dial comes punctuated with a diamond-studded tourbillon at 6 o’clock and an intriguing rotating automaton burnished with the brand’s emblem at 12 o’clock. Powering it all is a CG1809 calibre self-winding mechanical movement, complete with a 46-hour power reserve.

Men’s Complication Watch Prize

Snapping up the Men’s Complication Watch Prize is Swiss haute horology label Greubel Forsey’s aptly-named Hand Made 1. Intriguingly, 95 percent of the wristwatch – including the hairspring – was made solely by hand-operated tools, with each unit requiring some 6,000 hours of work to complete. Featuring an almost industrial aesthetic, its open-worked dial is entirely unblemished, save for the hour and minute hands and an attention-grabbing tourbillon, with the words ‘HAND MADE’ proudly emblazoned at the 6 o’clock mark.

Chronometry Watch Prize

Taking home the Chronometry Watch Prize for the second year running was Ferdinand Berthoud, this time around with its FB 2RE.2. Supposedly inspired by the Marine Clock No.6 (crafted in 1768 by the legendary French watchmaker who gave the brand its name), its technically superlative design boasts an original movement that combines the fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second remontoir powering the deadbeat seconds display on its enamel dial. Available in 18K white gold or yellow gold, both iterations of this rare chronograph are limited to just 10 pieces.

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize

Vacheron Constantin’s 41.5mm Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton, the winner of the Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize, meanwhile, is a fine tribute to the brand’s renowned expertise in crafting the most intricate of ultra-thin wristwatches. Housed in a remarkably slim 8.1mm-thin pink gold case, its skeleton dial features a moon phase indicator and a perpetual calendar – one that requires no adjustment until 1 March 2100 – all powered by a cutting-edge Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 movement.

Innovation Prize

Injecting a welcome dash of Islamic culture to proceedings was the Innovation Watch Prize winner – the Hijri Perpetual Calendar, which came courtesy of luxury Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier. Rather than relying on the Gregorian calendar commonly used for crafting perpetual calendar complications, this innovative take on the technology is, instead, derived from the Hijri (the Islamic lunar calendar) – something of a first in terms of the marque’s wristwatch output. Housed in a platinum case, its slate dial is further embellished by all-Arabic moonphase, hour, minute, date and month all indicators.

Audacity Prize 2020

Completing our round-up of the best of the best GHPG winners is Schaffhausen-headquartered H. Moser & Cie, with its Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F finding much-deserved success in the Audacity category. Designed in partnership with MB&F, this outré wrist adornment is fronted by a fume (or gradated) dial tilted at 40 degrees under a sapphire crystal dome at 6 o’clock. The top of its blue-to-black fascia, meanwhile, is burnished with a one-minute flying tourbillon.

Femme Appeal: Dazzling ladies’ watches for every occasion

For centuries, the world’s leading haute horology labels have been churning out stunning wristwatches solely for male consumers. Over the past decade, though, a wind of chance has swept through the industry, driven by a surge in female buyers searching for equally precision-engineered timepieces. Such has been the impact of this growth that many watch manufactures have had to rethink their approach to create a new slew of high-end chronograms to meet this demand. In fact, their insatiable appetite for horological products even led Swiss watchmaker TAG Heuer to declare 2018 as being ‘the year of the woman’. With so many prime statement timepieces now on the market, it’s no stretch to say there’s something out there for every modern woman, for any occasion, as the examples below aptly demonstrate.

Everyday Watch: Cartier Tank Asymétrique

Those in search of a watch for daily use need look no further than the new Cartier Tank Asymétrique. Affording its wearer a subtle elegance with just a hint of the avant-garde, this timepieces breaks away from traditional circular dials in favour of a strong diamond-shaped face, a design inspired by the original rectangular design of its Tank predecessor.

Evening Watch: OMEGA Trésor

To add a little sparkle to your evening look, check out the latest addition to Swiss manufacture OMEGA’s much-lauded Trésor collection. Refusing to shy away from larger-sized female timepieces, OMEGA’s new timepiece in stainless steel measure some 40mm in diameter. Enhanced with a beautiful gradient blue dial ringed with a diamond-set bezel, this is truly a sleek accessory for the sophisticated woman.

Party Watch: Bremont Hawking Quantum

Raising the attention-grabbing bar to a new level is the Bremont Hawking Quantum, the brand’s first-ever ladies’ watch in its new Stephen Hawking-inspired collection. Measuring 34mm in diameter, this limited-edition timepiece features diamonds inset into the bezel as well as the index markers on its dial. Underneath its beautifully decorated fascia lies a mechanical movement that offers a 42-hour power reserve.

Gala Watch: Piaget Secret Cenote Cuff Watch

Nothing serves a high-society lady at an evening soiree better than jewels – unless, of course, it is a jewel-studded timepiece adorning one’s wrist. Just one such statement timepiece is the Piaget 18k Secret Cenote Cuff Watch, luxuriously set with 151 baguette-cut sapphires, 71 baguette-cut diamonds,100 brilliant-cut diamonds. A unique and imaginative creation inspired by the flight of exotic tropical birds, the dazzling aesthetic of this wrist accessory is sure to wow any crowd.

Feature image: Omega Tresor

Dive In: Dazzling timepieces that thrive underwater

Since the dawn of the 20th century, burgeoning interest in oceanic exploration saw the rise of diving as both a science and a sport. And long before the advent of computers and other technologically-driven equipment, dive watches were right there to help these intrepid explorers in their aquatic endeavours, primarily to precisely measure time spent by a diver underwater.

“Oceanic explorations have inspired the creation of a wide selection of luxuriously elegant dive watches”

These days, though, their popularity has spilled over into the general leisure domain, sparking a slew of quasi-counterfeit ‘dive watches’. To combat this, the International Organisation of Standardisation (ISO) has set guidelines and testing parameters that comprise a real dive watch. The true haute horology titans, though, have consistently produced technologically advanced wrist adornments that can not only withstand the oceanic depths, but that look good doing so. Below are seven of the latest standouts.

First up is Ulysse Nardin’s all-new Diver Net. A novel approach sparked the creation of this innovative design, with the brand looking to the sea for materials with which to enhance the watch in a truly sustainable fashion. This sees everything from its R-Straps and bezel to case and caseback crafted from recycled fishing nets, with even the crystal manufactured from recycled oceanic plastic. Under the hood beats an UN-118 movement that sees the black-on-green watch function to depths of up to 300m.

Another brand utilising a similar colour motif is Blancpain in the form of its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback. The first green version of this particular model, its dial and bezel boasts an almost military camouflage aesthetic. With an eye to ensuring safety, its 43.6mm case is crafted from satin-brushed ceramic, a highly scratch-resistant, anti-reflective material that bequeaths a sturdy robustness. Water resistant to 30 bar, its F385 calibre flyback chronograph movement is precise to 1/10 per second when timing events. A 50-hour power reserve completes its chrono diver appeal.

Next, watchmaker Bell & Ross has expanded its DIVER collection with the BR 03-92 DIVER ORANGE. If the PR materials are to be believed, this 250-piece limited release’s eye-catching colour was chosen to reflect ‘the visual codes associated with maritime safety’ and to guarantee ‘optimal reading time’. Burnished with the brand’s iconic square-shaped face, its 60-minute calibrated uni-directional rotating bezel affords divers the ability to precisely monitor their dive times. In all, it’s an intelligent design that unsurprisingly meets the ISO’s latest standards.

Equally placing durability at its core is the Panerai Submersible Azzuro – 42mm, Panerai’s most robust dive watch to date. Here, its movement is safely tucked away behind a screwed caseback, while a bridge device similarly protects the crown from any encroaching water. Water resistant to 1,000ft, its matte black dial is further punctuated with a date aperture and a small-seconds subdial. Available solely through the brand’s e-commerce channel, just 500 pieces will be released.

Embracing a more outré aesthetic is OMEGA in the form of its Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph. Combining titanium, tantalum and the brand’s proprietary rose gold alloy, Sedna gold, the result is a pink and blue feast for the eyes. Water resistant to 300m, the side of each Numbered Edition’s 44mm case comes emblazoned with its unique number. To highlight its aquatic nature, the timepiece even comes with a special presentation box styled like a water-resistant chamber.

Returning to a more traditional blue-hued dial is Tudor’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”. The ‘Fifty-Eight’ here is a reference to the year it released its first-ever divers’ watch waterproof to 200m. This new 39mm model comes with a blue domed dial ringed with a matte blue 60-minute uni-directional rotating bezel. Powered by a Calibre MT5402 movement that affords a generous 70-hour power reserve, it can be fitted with three different types of straps.

Sister brand Rolex – who created the world’s first hermetically-sealed watch back in 1927 – has also unveiled a new avatar of its iconic dive watch, the Rolex Submariner. First introduced in 1953, it has now been updated to a slightly larger 41mm case, replete with the cutting-edge calibre 3230 movement also introduced earlier this year. Fully waterproof to depths of 300m, its black dial is ringed with a black rotatable bezel with a Cerachrom insert – a virtually scratchproof and corrosion-resistant material – deft touches that highlights the watchmaker’s continually keen understanding of divers’ needs.

The do’s and don’ts of vintage watch repairs

Vintage wristwatches – timepieces typically made before the ’80s – are hugely prized and popular investment items for haute horology enthusiasts. Indeed, well-preserved older timepieces with strong provenances have yielded stunning auction results across the globe. A case in point is actor Paul Newman’s 1968 Rolex Daytona, which sold in 2017 for a staggering US$15.5 million. Due to their age, though, many of these collectibles show signs of wear and tear, ranging from scratched crystal to broken parts. But collectors should be aware of exactly how vintage watch repairs affect the overall timepiece if they want to maintain the integrity and value of their precious timepiece, as one wrong move could see their investment significantly devalue.

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine philipps — Image from Philipps

The value of original parts

Highly sought-after vintage timepieces were typically made for a particular purpose (or purposes) and often have a significant place in history. In an article posted by major international auction house Sotheby’s, watch collectors prize vintage watches because they represent monumental horological moments and are often part of major technological breakthroughs. Take, for example, the the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer, designed for the Everest expedition in 1953, the first watch to reach Mount Everest’s 8,848m summit. So, it makes sense why original parts, although flawed or damaged, can carry significant value for a vintage timepiece. For instance, signs of ageing like scratches can offer a unique story, and replacing those parts during vintage watch repairs would be akin to changing its history, and ultimately, its value.

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine quill and pad — Image from Quill & Pad

The three most important parts to a vintage watch

First and foremost, if you aren’t sure whether replacing a broken part would benefit or devalue a vintage watch, don’t do it. Once it’s done, it can’t be undone, and there is no way to return its value. Here are other points to note when contemplating vintage watch repairs:

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine classic watch repair (2) — Image from Classic Watch Repair

The crystals

When the crystal of a watch is severely cracked or damaged, repairing it is important. It is the first defense in protecting the most important parts of the watch – the dial, hands, and movement – from external substances that could cause irreparable damage to the movement, surely affecting the value of the watch.

Water-resistant gaskets

Similar to the crystal, gaskets are also an important part of the watch’s protective system. If a gasket is not restored or replaced, it will become damaged, brittle or flattened over time, creating a weak spot for the watch and potentially allowing dirt and other particles to enter and adversely affect its internal mechanisms.

Hands and dials

The dials and hands are always two factors of the watch that collectors look at when considering the value of a timepiece, particularly in the case of complex creations with multiple apertures. Replacing the dials and hands not only affects the aesthetics of the watch but also drastically brings down the value of it. The only exception to replacing the hands of a vintage timepiece, according to a watch specialist at Christie’s, is if the replacement part is age-appropriate, authentic and equally as rare as the watch itself. For example, a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6204 from 1954 with a mirror dial from the early ’60s would be more likely to retain its value. Alternatively, an experienced watchmaker may be able have an alternative solution to prevent further deterioration while keeping its original part, and therefore maintaining the integrity of the original model.

Finding an experienced watchmaker to service replacement part

Although it is recommended that vintage watch repairs should be handled by the original brand’s service centre, it isn’t a guarantee that they can even accept them. In some cases, parts that require repair are either rare or have ceased to be produced, thus hindering their ability to refurbish them. In these instances, you can still opt for an independent watchmaker, one specifically experienced in the precepts of proper watch restoration work. Here are a few recommendations:

DM2 Watch Service

Berne Horology

Classic Watch Repair

Feature image from Classic Watch Repair

Fair Game: Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai

Stunning timepieces showcased at the Watches & Wonders Shanghai exhibition

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), one of the most prestigious annual watch events in the world, emerged this year with a new identity as the Watches & Wonders fair. Following the cancellation of its inaugural Geneva event February, the organisers took the show on the road to Shanghai’s West Bund Art Centre in September. 11 renowned haute horology brands were in attendance over the five-day watch fair, showcasing enough cutting-edge high-end timepieces to tempt even the most discerning of watch collectors. Below, we highlight seven of the most outstanding models for your perusal.

iwc portugieser yacht club chronograph gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — IWC’s Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition ‘Orlebar Brown’

Starting the horological proceedings is IWC’s sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition ‘Orlebar Brown’. Created in partnership with British swimwear label Orlebar Brown, this athletic update to the iconic Portugieser collection features a nautically- inspired blue case, paired with equally sporty blue rubber straps and a co-branded side-fastener buckle. Fitted with an in-house calibre 89361 flyback chronograph movement, its elegant fascia is punctuated with a chronograph hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock and a hacking-seconds / date display at the 6 o’clock position. A 68-hour power reserve completes its robust yet sleek appeal.

“Watches & Wonders Shanghai showcased enough high-end watches to tempt even the most discerning collectors”

parmigiani fleurier tondagraph gt chronograph gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Blue by Parmiagani Fleurier

Another dazzling chronograph that debuted at Watches & Wonders Shanghai was the Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Blue from high-end watch manufacture Parmigiani Fleurier, with this attention-grabbing blue-on-rose gold timepiece, turning traditional watchmaking on its head via a movement organised around a central column wheel, a balance attached to a cross-bridge and a vertical rather than a horizontal clutch. Limited to a release of just 25 pieces, its latest PF071 movement oscillates at 36,000 vibrations per hour, ensuring accuracy to one-tenth of a second.

baume mercier clifton gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon Phase

An equally compelling haute horological offering came from Baume & Mercier in the form of its new Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase. Burnished in an attractive blue-white gold motif and powered by an in-house BM14 movement, its elegant lacquered gray dial boasts an eye-catching vertical layout with the day indicator at 12 o’clock and a moon phase subdial – ringed by a date indicator – taking place of pride at the 6 o’clock position. Equipped with a five-day power reserve, this 42mm wrist adornment is the perfect accessory for any debonair gentleman.

lange sohne tourbograph perpetual honeygold gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — A. Lange & Sohne’s Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold ‘Homage to F.A. Lange

Not to be outdone, A. Lange & Sohne unveiled its new Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” as an ode to its founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange. A veritable treasure trove of grand complications can be found atop its attractive black-rhodiumed dial, including a tourbillon, a rattrapante chronograph, a moon phase indicator and a perpetual calendar. Measuring 43mm in diameter, its case is crafted from 18K Honeygold, a top-secret proprietary alloy. Limited to a release of just 50 pieces, this is surely a guaranteed collector’s favourite.

jaeger lecoultre master grande tradition gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Jaeger LeCoultre’s Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

Raising the bar quite literally to the stars, meanwhile, was Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre with the latest iteration of its Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication. The jewel in its crown undeniably the arresting celestial vault – an astronomical complication encompassing an orbital tourbillon tied to a star chart that completes one revolution each sidereal day – that adorns its multi-layered dial. If that weren’t enough, it also comes outfitted with 24-hour indication and the brand’s iconic minute repeater with cathedral crystal gongs.

roger dubuis excalibur diabolus machina gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Diabolus in Machina

Inserting an element of the outré to the proceedings was Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Diabolus in Machina. Here, the large, skeletonised flying tourbillon has been crafted from CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM, the marque’s proprietary metal. Measuring a staggering 45mm in diameter, its open-worked dial is further punctuated with oversized Roman numerals as hour markers. A key draw is undoubtedly its minute repeater function, with the gongs chiming at C and G flat reminiscent of the “Diabolus in Musica”, or “the devil in music”, so often touted during medieval times.

cartier pasha gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier

Rounding out our list of top timepieces at Watches & Wonders Shanghai is the latest iteration of Cartier’s cult classic, the Pasha de Cartier. First introduced in 1985, this newest incarnation comes in a slew of interchangeable straps, case materials and bezels. The most dazzling of these is a white gold creation that features an attractively open-worked dial with a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, with its 1847 MC automatic movement wholly visible through its transparent sapphire crystal caseback. Rounding out its appeal, 180 shimmering diamonds adorn its bezel, movement, crown and buckle, ensuring that any passing gazes are firmly ensnared.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Photos: Watches & Wonders