Dialing It Up: Unusually shaped watches that bring a fresh perspective on timekeeping

Round or square dials with flat display cases are pretty much the norm in the world of high-end timepieces. A few daring watch manufactures, however, venture beyond these traditional forms, experimenting with domed displays, transparent cases and unusual timekeeping apertures that are as avant-garde as they are stunning.

Here, we cast a discerning eye over the latest crop of unusually shaped wrist adornments.

Cloche de Cartier by Cartier
First on our list is the bell-shaped Cloche de Cartier. Inspired by luxury maison Cartier’s Cloche design of the ’20s, this idiosyncratic creation boasts a bell-shaped case with the dial’s hour markers rotated some 90 degrees from its usual orientation, giving it the aesthetic of a traditional desk clock.

Six different iterations of the new Cloche de Cartier have been unveiled. Versions encased in yellow gold, pink gold and platinum are equipped with a hand-wound 1917 MC movement, while three skeletonised models – available in pink gold, platinum or platinum with diamonds – feature a calibre 9626 MC movement.

Purnell Escape II Absolute Sapphire
Similarly boasting a see-through appeal is Swiss watchmaker Purnell’s Escape II Absolute Sapphire, which claims the honour of being the world’s first-ever double triple-axis tourbillon to be housed in a full sapphire case with movement bridges and a dial crafted from sapphire crystal.

This delightful open-worked motif affords direct views of the intricately engineered double Spherion movement, as well as the six barrels that power it. Just one piece will be made, so this exceptional 48mm watch is a guaranteed collector’s edition.

Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Pièce Unique
Another one-of-a-kind model with an unusual case is Vacheron Constantin’s American 1921 Pièce Unique, which the marque has painstakingly recreated from the 1919 original. When that vintage timepiece debuted, it was the world’s first-ever cushion-shaped design, and this unique feature has been revived for its 21st-century descendant.

In keeping with the historic nature of its legacy, almost every component of the watch has been constructed exactly as it would have been a century ago, with even the logo reading a period-accurate ‘Vacheron et Constantin Geneve Suisse’.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport
Injecting an element of 3D sophistication, meanwhile, is Greubel Forsey’s updated GMT Sport. Certain to appeal to jetsetters, its three-dimensional blue dial is punctuated with a second time zone indicator, a rotating globe with universal time and day-night indicator, and a tourbillon at the 2 o’clock position.

Limited to a release of just 33 pieces in titanium, it sports a distinctive ovoid case that gently curves at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock for a more streamlined look.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Minute Repeater
Not to be outdone, high-end fashion house Louis Vuitton has pulled back the curtain on the Tambour Carpe Diem Minute Repeater, a fantastical horological creation featuring a dominant relief sculpture of a skull on its dial, replete with an intertwining snake. A legion of moving mechanisms stud this truly stunning piece of engineering, be it the snake’s tail that acts as a retrograde seconds indicator, the skull’s jaw gaping open to reveal the words ‘carpe diem’ or the moving lattice that changes the brand’s floral emblem into a star. In short, this is one minute repeater and ‘time on demand’ timepiece that elevates dial art to a whole new strata.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1
Taking the number one spot on our list of unusually shaped dials is independent Swiss watchmaker Christophe Claret’s X-TREM-1. Having debuted in 2012, this latest edition comes burnished in an eye-catching blue hue. Turning traditional timekeeping completely on its head, it eschews hour and minute hands entirely, instead displaying the time via two orange steel spheres moving up and down demarcated hour and minute displays. Seconds, meanwhile, are indicated by the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which rotates every 30 seconds. Powered by a hand-wound FLY11 mechanical movement that takes place of pride on its open-worked fascia, this remarkable creation represents innovative haute horology at its very best.

Feature image: Vacheron Constantin’s American 1921 Pièce Unique movement assembly

Wrist Candy: Five dazzling high jewellery watches to add to your collection

Although the world of haute horology is, today, a male-dominated sphere, the industry actually owes the rise of wristwatches to demand from the fairer sex. During the late 19th century, when pocket watches were still the norm, it was women who had began adorning their wrists with fashionable gem-studded timepieces. Today, high jewellery watches blend the best of haute horology and high jewellery traditions in utterly stunning expressions that make for captivating timepieces that ensure all eyes are firmly on you…

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Purple Arums
The line between art and watchmaking is often blurred when it comes to high jewellery watches, and renowned Swiss horologist Jaeger-LeCoultre plays with this amalgam exceptionally well with its latest Reverso, Purple Arums. Taking inspiration from decorative jewellery worn in the ’20s, the 40mm self-winding wristwatch, powered by the watchmaker’s patented Calibre 846 movement, introduces a truly unique Reverso iteration replete with the model’s iconic double-sided rectangular case. Its vivid floral design seamlessly flows across the rotatable case front, exhibiting a high level of craftsmanship that required a painstaking 95-hour process of gem-setting, enamelling and engraving to create.

Vacheron Constantin Égérie
Staying with manual-winding chronographs, Vacheron Constantin celebrates the multiple facets of femininity through its new Égérie self-winding diamond-pavé models. Presented at the Watches & Wonders 2021, the ultra chic and elegantly versatile 35mm jewellery watch is truly worth of being added to the collection of any discerning fashionista. Featuring the maison’s signature off-centre display and asymmetrical geometry (artfully interlace two circles), a total of 574 round-cut diamonds punctuate the dial as well as the watch’s bezel, flanks and lugs, imparting an added sparkle to proceedings.

Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise
The next entry on our list of stunning high jewellery watches comes courtesy of Swiss luxury watch and jewellery maker Piaget. The Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise is an automatic movement that features an eye-catching 32mm 18K white gold case and a bezel set with 32 brilliant-cut blue sapphires and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds, all of which were carefully sifted through to create the seamlessly flowing gradient that outlines the snowy, diamond embellished dial mixed with different-sized gemstones — a true beauty for the modern-day woman.

Franck Muller Double Mystery Peony
Next up, a marriage between haute horology and haute couture comes through a combination of technical innovation and the art of watchmaking – the intricately detailed Double Mystery Peony from Swiss horology brand Frank Muller. The 42mm mechanical complication, powered by a 42 DM PEONY D 2R CD movement, boasts a gorgeous gem-studded dial replete with 662 brilliant-cut diamonds and precious stones, all of which were painstakingly hand-set. Further accentuating its avant-garde aesthetics are the hour and minute indicators, which are placed on rotating discs at its centre.

Cartier Libre Baignoire Turtle
Rounding out our list of high jewellery watches is luxury maison Cartier’s limited-edition Libre Baignoire Turtle watch. Taking inspiration from its 2019 Baignoire predecessor, just 30 pieces of this masterclass in jewellery watchmaking will be produced. Playful, sophisticated and all-but-guaranteed to ensnare any passing gaze, its geometric motif is punctuated with anthracite, buff-topped sapphires and pavé diamonds that together call to mind the scaling of a turtle’s shell.

Turbulent Time: Stand-out precision timepieces

While the Covid-19 pandemic may be continuing to confine the world to the most turbulent of times, that hasn’t proven any bar to innovation within the wider haute horology industry. In fact, many of the most high-profile Swiss marques have flown in the face of adversity and launched a staggering array of new precision timepieces over recent months, with seven meriting particular scrutiny…

Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier
First up is Cartier’s new Pasha de Cartier 41mm, the latest iteration of the brand’s iconic ’80s cult classic, which it relaunched last year. Boasting an undeniably Baroque aesthetic, this new 41mm incarnation comes fitted with a rotating bezel and a trio of blue cabochons gracing its crown and chrono pushers, while being available in two different versions – a gold edition with grey and blue alligator leather straps and a burnished steel take with a matching strap / bracelet. Both come fitted with Cartier’s signature QuickSwitch system as standard, allowing easy switching between your chosen fastenings.

41mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph
Again in a 41mm size is renowned watchmaker Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph. Powered by a self-winding calibre 4401 movement, complete with a column wheel and a flyback function, its black-on-rose gold aesthetic boasts an undeniably sleek appeal. Fetchingly, its middle case is crafted from black ceramic for a great lightweight feel, while atop sits its smoked grey lacquered dial and three recessed subdials. Also available in a white gold iteration, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm comes fitted with black textile straps, tempering its overall look with a subtle casual flair.

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar from Lange & Sohne
Third in this month’s assembly of noteworthies is the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar from A. Lange & Sohne. A high complication watch, it has intriguingly eschewed all ostentation in favour of sleek minimalist lines, at least as minimalist as a perpetual calendar can ever really be. Powered by a calibre L021.3 movement, its grey dial features a date aperture, day counter, and a combined day-night-cum-moonphase-indicator, all encircled by a rotating month gauge.The brand has also released a 150-piece limited edition with an unusual salmon-pink dial.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono
Adding a distinctly vintage aura to proceedings, meanwhile, are the two latest Black Bay Chrono timepieces from Swiss watchmaker Tudor.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Channeling the eternal appeal of sister brand Rolex’s Daytona, these chronographs are noticeably slimmer, more modern expressions of that iconic sports watch. In another key difference, a black tachymeter bezel rings the buyer’s choice of a white dial with recessed black subdials – reminiscent of a panda’s face – or a black fascia with white subdials. Interestingly, in addition to the traditional stainless-steel straps, there’s also the option of either a more athletic fabric strap or a leather bund bracelet, with the latter bequeathing something of a racing driver feel.

Staying with Daytonas, Rolex has served up an almost out-of-this-world creation in the form of its new Cosmograph Daytona. Under its hood beats a calibre 4130 movement, which brings its ever-reliable power reserve to this classic chronograph, with the addition of a 60-second, 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Lovingly adorned with a stunning crystalline meteorite dial, this guaranteed collector’s item comes in three models – yellow, white or the brand’s proprietary Everose gold.

Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer by Omega
Another outer space-inspired horological wonder comes courtesy of the very brand that famously furnished the Apollo 11 team with their timepieces – Omega. In a significant move, the latest generation of the first watch to land on the moon, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer, has been given its first new movement since 1996 – the Co-Axial Calibre 3861. Furthermore, in order to aptly celebrate the 50th anniversary of the brand’s partnership with NASA, athletic-style Velcro straps emblazoned with the latter’s logo have been added into the mix.

DB28XP Meteorite from De Bethune
The final celestially-inclined wrist adornment comes courtesy of independent Swiss manufacture De Bethune, with its DB28XP Meteorite perfectly encapsulating avant-garde watchmaking at its very finest. Fronted by a most otherworldly blue meteorite dial – inevitably calling to mind a starry night sky – it’s fetchingly ringed with Arabic numeral hour markers, all finely housed within an ultra lightweight black zirconium case. Available in a limited edition of just 10, buyers can even opt to have the star constellation of their choice emblazoned across the dial.

Miss Time: The wonder that is the world of women’s watches…

Once, not too long ago, the world of haute horology was dominated solely by masculine designs, with their ‘lesser’ female counterparts at best an afterthought. With the rise of womankind across the workforce – and indeed, in every other aspect of contemporary life – leading watch manufactures have risen to meet growing demand for ever more complex femme-focused timepieces. Of the latest such models on offer, seven in particular deserve special mention.

Vacheron Constantin’s Égérie Self-Winding
The first of these comes in the form of Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918, the latest iteration of a timepiece created in celebration of Napoleon’s younger sister, Caroline Murat. Knowing her to be a long-time admirer of the brand and a haute horological enthusiast, founder Abraham-Louis Breguet crafted the original, with its distinctive oval dial, very much in her honour. Burnished with a mother-of-pearl dial, its scarlet-hued appeal stems from its oversized Arabic numeral hour markers, ruby pusher and red alligator leather straps. Adding an extra element of allure are the 117 brilliant-cut diamonds that adorn its bezel, with the entire timepiece powered by a self-winding calibre 537/3 movement, clearly visible through its wholly transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918
Another red-dominant watch has comes courtesy of Vacheron Constantin, with its Égérie Self-Winding model similarly fitted with a diamond-studded bezel and red leather straps. In this instance, however, this particular haute horology master has opted to craft the case and hour markers in a lush pink gold, creating quite a contrasting effect. Adding to its appeal, an unusual off-centre subdial – also encircled by glistening diamonds – between 1 o’clock and 2 o’clock serves as the date indicator. The Égérie is also available with black straps and in a stainless steel-white gold incarnation.

Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual models
For a flexible yet chic everyday option, meanwhile, you could do far worse than check out famed watch manufacture Rolex’s new line of Oyster Perpetual creations. Available in either a 41mm or a more subtle 36mm edition, both come adorned with dials in a veritable array of vivid colours, ranging from black and green to far brighter coral, turquoise blue and candy pink models. All come with the latest Calibre 3230 movement – which was just unveiled last year – as standard, and are rounded out with the brand’s iconic Oyster bracelet.

Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition
Next on our list is a more outré interpretation of the truly femme-focused timepiece – the Joséphine Aigrette from luxury brand Chaumet. With no buckle or clasp to be seen, instead it comes enticingly equipped with an assortment of leather or satin bracelet straps, additions that elegantly grace any wrist. The dial proper, meanwhile, has been crafted in a unique tear-drop shape and imbued with a striking minimalist appeal, with its sole adornments consisting of miniature hour and minute hands, as well, of course, as the brand’s distinguished logo.

Chaumet’s Joséphine Aigrette
Serving up another stunning creation – albeit one with a starry twist – is haute couture label Hermès’ newly unveiled Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs. Inevitably bringing to mind thoughts of a twinkling night sky, its pale mother-of-pearl dial has been sprinkled with 87 blue sapphires and 68 white diamonds, an adornment that extends to the bezel. Underneath the hood, meanwhile, beats a calibre H1837 self-winding movement, powering a date indicator at 6 o’clock and a beautiful moon phase indicator at the top half of its fascia.

Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Spider
Similarly embodying an off-centre motif is Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition, which marks the first time the maison has offered this grand complication in a smaller 38mm diameter lady-friendly version. A past master at crafting super slim timepieces, Piaget has clearly not skimped on precision engineering this time around either. Sitting pretty on its sunray-engraved mother-of-pearl dial is an ultra-thin flying tourbillon at 2 o’clock, which is mirrored by an hour-and-minute counter that together form a lucky figure ‘8’ and infinity symbol. Limited to a release of just 88 pieces, a diamond-studded bezel completes its elegant appeal.

Hermès’ Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs
For those in search of a true statement piece, our final recommendation – the Excalibur Spider by Roger Dubuis – is truly a must. Crafted in a dazzling collision of high-octane racing lines-meets-haute horology, this avant-garde gold and white creation truly exemplifies cutting-edge watchmaking for women. With a dial punctuated by a star-shaped motif, the jewel in its crown is undeniably its flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock, a feature that has elegantly displayed via the clever incorporation of a delightful open-worked aesthetic. Deftly balancing beautiful form with precision-engineered function, it’s sure to appeal to any watch-loving fashionista.

Wrist Candy: A sneak peek at the latest 2021 novelty watches

Each year, the world’s leading haute horology brands unveil a slew of new designs, tempting timepieces that will set the trend for the industry and its legions of fans in the months to come. Below, we highlight some of the most outstanding 2021 novelty watches to feast your eyes on…

Corum Admiral 45 Automatic Tourbillon
First to make the cut is the Admiral 45 Openworked Flying Tourbillon by Swiss watchmaker Corum. An arresting marriage between avant-garde stylings and precision engineering, the automatic chronometer proudly blends classic design with a modern nautical motif that is sure to win over the hearts of ocean-going watch connoisseurs around the world. The dynamic 45mm carbon and 18K gold-glitter case affords view on both sides of the dial, including the artisanal mastery that went into meticulously finished components of the rotating flying tourbillon escapement C0 298 taking place of pride at 6 o’clock.

Longines Avigation BigEye
Next up is the Avigation BigEye by Swiss luxury watchmaker Longines, which impresses with a striking grained and shaded petrol blue dial burnished with Arabic numeral hour markers. Multifunctional to the extreme, it boasts a small-seconds counter at 9 0’clock, a 12-hour measure at the bottom half of its fascia, and an intriguing 30-minute scale at 3 o’clock. Unabashedly boasting vintage pilot-watch appeal, this 41mm titanium case houses a self-winding calibre L688 mechanical movement with a silicon balance-spring and sits handsomely on any gentleman’s wrist.

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm
Intertwining uncompromising craftsmanship with bold aesthetics, world-renowned mechanical watchmaker Audemars Piguet has pulled back the curtains on a new41mm self-winding iteration of its iconic Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm. Powered by a self-winding calibre 4401 movement replete with a column wheel and a flyback function, its black-on-rose gold aesthetic presents an undeniably sleek appeal. Here, the middle case is crafted from black ceramic for a great lighweight feel, while atop its smoked grey lacquered dial lie three recessed subdials. Also available in a white gold iteration, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm comes fitted with black textile straps that temper its overall look with a subtle casual flair.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra
Turning to watches for the ladies, the Seamaster Aqua Terra by Swiss luxury watchmaker Omega is a timepiece that embodies lushious feminine elegance at its very finest. With a dazzling diamond-set bezel and hour markers crafted from precious rubies, this blushing wrist adornment’s dial is further enhanced with a wave-patterned pink dial. Presented in a 34mm stainless steel or 18K Sedna gold case, this delightful homage to womanhood is powered by a Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 movement.

Cartier Panthère Songeuse
Long renowned for creating the finest timepieces for discerning female collectors, Cartier’s new Panthère Songeuse does not disappoint. A dazzling statement piece in every sense of the word, this ostentatious gem-laden creation features the brand’s emblematic feline draped across the top of its fascia, replete with a pair of pear-cut emerald eyes, black onyx nose and sapphire spots. The multi-ringed motif of this sparkling 28.4mm timepiece draws attention to the pave-set diamonds, ensuring all eyes will undoubtedly be on its sophisticated wearer.

Tourbillon and on: The continual rise of the world’s favourite gravity defying watch…

When renowned watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon back in 1795, it was rightly hailed as a revolution in the horological arts. After all, this tiny mechanism – a genius bit of engineering that houses the escapement and balance wheel in a continuously rotating cage – counteracts the effects of gravity by continuously correcting any positional errors. This innovative mechanism ensured that the popular pocket watches of the day – worn vertically and hitherto susceptible to gravity-derived inaccuracies – told precisely the right time no matter where they were positioned.

In the contemporary, wristwatch-favouring era, of course, tourbillons are inevitably a little less indispensable. This, though, has in no way diminished their appeal to the more discerning collector, with haute horology houses subsequently never more keen to unveil ever-more ornate iterations of the original design. While their numbers truly are legion, seven in particular merit especial consideration…

First up is the somewhat unconventional DB Kind of Two Tourbillon, a relatively new offering from independent Swiss watch manufacture De Bethune, which boasts not one but two distinct faces on its 42.8mm titanium pivoting case. On one side lies a traditional blue-on-white guilloché watch face with Arabic hour markers ringed by a seconds indicator. The reverse dial, though, is all about contemporary appeal, with a lovingly crafted titanium Ultra-light De Bethune 30” tourbillon taking pride of place at 6 o’clock. Blending the past and present with true aplomb, extra-supple alligator straps complete its appeal.

A more futuristic twist, meanwhile, comes courtesy of Chopard with its new Mille Miglia Lab One. Conceived as a concept watch and a homage to the high-performance race cars of Italy’s famous Mille Miglia race, this stunning timepiece has been crafted from ultra-lightweight black bead-blasted titanium. The brand’s first self-winding tourbillon chronometer, under the hood of this 20-piece limited release can be found a Chopard 04.03-M movement, effortlessly powering a titanium tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

Similarly opting for an ever so cool all-black aesthetic is the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon, which is now available from the indisputably luxurious Bulgari brand. Fetchingly, its noir fascia comes fitted with an open-worked metallic grille, allowing a fascinating glimpse of its new BVL428 manual-winding movement. Housed in a black DLC titanium case, this 44mm timepiece effectively combines both a tourbillon and a three-hammer case while maintaining a minimalist – almost industrial – flair.

Deservedly meriting our fourth slot is the stunningly slim Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Moon from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which comes complete with a classic white-on-rose gold motif. Unashamedly taking tourbillon stylings to a new height – quite literally – this elegant wrist adornment’s flying tourbillon is paired with a moon phase aperture ringed by a jumping date indicator at the top of the dial. The design’s thinness – something of a signature look for JLC – belies the complexity of its engineering and measures a scant 12.1mm.

Another precision engineering masterpiece setting its sights on the skies is the Code 11:59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon, with its 18K pink gold case – burnished with a shimmering black aventurine dial reminiscent of a star-lit night sky – making it a real standout. Equipped with a Calibre 2950 movement that combines a flying tourbillon with a central rotor, this 41mm timepiece is also available as a white gold-blue aventurine avatar.

For those in search of something a little more outré, German luxury label Montblanc’s new Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition 8 skeletonised tourbillon timepiece delivers in spades. Its innovative open-worked approach, for instance, affords direct views into the inner workings of its Calibre M B M 18.69 movement – a mechanism comprising 188 disparate parts, all lovingly handcrafted by the maison’s skilled artisans. Its dial proper, meanwhile, has been neatly bisected, with an off-centre hour-and-minute dial at 12 o’clock perfectly balancing the Exo Tourbillon on its southern hemisphere. As its name suggests, this fine example of haute horology is available in a limited edition of just eight.

A true statement timepiece, however, concludes this month’s round-up – Vacheron Constantin’s recently-unveiled Traditionnelle Tourbillon Qilin. Launched to welcome the Lunar New Year, its hand-guillochéd black dial comes elaborately burnished with a pair of matching hand-engraved Qilin – the mythical hooved chimeric creature of Chinese legend. The tourbillon proper at 6 o’clock, meanwhile, comes fitted with a small seconds indicator and sits beneath a gold-accented power-reserve indicator. A perfect blend of precision engineering and gorgeous aesthetics, this is a future collector’s piece in waiting.

Buffalo O’clock: Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. On clocks.

Many in the West and beyond welcomed in their New Year on 1 January, all no doubt happy to bid adieu to the travails of 2020 and welcome the next 12 months with the hope of better things to come. For many others – in fact, for about a fifth of the global population – the real celebrations, of course, begin on Friday, 12 February this year, the first day of Chinese New Year.

Hoping to take full advantage of the upcoming festivities, several of the world’s leading haute horology houses have turned their eye to creating special 2021 timepieces as they look to usher in the Year of the Ox. Among the many models jostling for attention, seven merit particular mention.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. vacheron constantin — Vacheron Constantin’s The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox

First up is one of the newest addition to Swiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin’s Metiers d’Art collection – The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox. Inspired by jian zhi, a Chinese paper-cutting technique, its beautiful blue fascia features cut-out apertures for its day, date, hour and minute indicators. Available with either a blue or bronze-toned dial, taking pride of place in the centre of both variants is a lovingly engraved rendering of this mightiest of zodiac animals.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. blacpain front traditional chinese calendar — Blancpain’s Traditional Chinese Calendar

Eschewing the Gregorian calendar in favour of the Chinese version, meanwhile, is Blancpain’s aptly named Traditional Chinese Calendar. Its Arabic numeral date indicators and Roman numeral hour markers notwithstanding, this timepiece truly embraces the Chinese lunisolar calendar with its showcase of an array of traditional facets, including the zodiac signs, the five elements and the ten heavenly stems. The product of five long years of research and development, the 45mm watch is available in red gold as well as a 50-piece limited-edition platinum avatar.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. harvey winston — Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic 36mm

Inserting some sparkle to proceedings, meanwhile, is renowned jeweller Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic 36mm. Designed with diamond-loving ladies very much in mind, this dazzling creation forefronts a vivid red mother-of-pearl dial, ably accentuated by a diamond-studded ox. As if that weren’t enough, the bezel of its rose gold case has also been given a diamond upgrade, with stunning red leather straps completing its festive appeal.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Piaget_Altiplano_Chinese New Year — Piaget’s Altiplano Year of the Ox

Boasting a similar diamond-studded bezel design is the Altiplano Year of the Ox, which is available from Swiss luxury maison Piaget, complete with a magnificently muscular ox fronting its gleaming white dial. This rugged zodiac symbol has been painstakingly rendered in Grand Feu cloisonne enamelling by master enameller Anita Porchet using a process that sees the dial fired at high temperatures repeatedly in order to ensure the image is perfectly captured, before being varnished to ensure longevity. Housed in a super-slim case – one the brand’s signature flourishes – the whole ensemble is powered by a cutting-edge 430P hand-wound movement.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox” — Breguet’s Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox”

Another bovine-inspired wristwatch comes courtesy of the French-founded luxury label Breguet, with its new Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox” featuring two buffalo bulls on an exquisite handcrafted dial. In order to capture the true vivacity of these magnificent beasts, the gold coating of each rendering has been electroplated multiple times, creating four contrasting shades. The hooves and horns, meanwhile, have been crafted in white gold, with the beauty of the piece standing as apt testament to the skill of Breguet’s craftsmen.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Chopard LUC Urushi Year of the Ox — Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox

Building on the golden ox motif – albeit with a distinctly outré approach – is Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox. Here, the dial has been painstakingly fashioned using Urushi, a traditional Japanese lacquerware technique that uses continuously applied layers of lacquer and gold powder to great effect. The resultant fascia features a lushly coated ox pulling a wagon across the land. Coming with a 65-hour power reserve as standard, only 88 of these simply stunning timepieces will ever be made available.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.PETITE HEURE MINUTE RELIEF BUFFALO_FRONT jaquet droz — Jaquet Droz’s Petite Heure Minute Buffalo

An even more exclusive creation – with just eight available in red gold and a further eight in white gold – is the Petite Heure Minute Buffalo, the latest work from renowned watchmaker Jaquet Droz. Featuring an onyx dial, it also boasts an enchanting top-mounted relief-engraved buffalo strolling along a plum tree on a raised tableau, all delivered through the wonder of hand-engraved gold appliqué work. Both variants measure 41mm in diameter, with the white gold style further accentuated with a gem-set bezel and lugs. From the symbolism of the imagery and the emblematic ox to the use of gold throughout, this stunning timepiece stands is the perfect tribute to the Year of the Metal Ox.

Prime Time: The best watches from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve

For some 20 years now, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) has been seen as one of the world’s preeminent haute horology events. Dedicated to celebrating and promoting the watchmaking art around the world, its annual awards presentation spotlights the most stunningly innovative and precision-engineered timepieces created by both major brands and independent manufacturers. This year, for the first time, a new body – the GPHG Academy, an assembly of 350 key watch industry specialists – determined the winners. In all, 84 timepieces were nominated across 14 categories, with seven of the most outstanding showcased below…

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prize

Taking home this year’s top prize, Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept was the product of six long years of development by the brand’s in-house Research and Innovation division. Just 2mm deep, it is said to be the thinnest mechanical watch in the world. In order to facilitate its super-slim design, its case and movement have been merged into one, alongside an integrated winding crown and ultra-thin sapphire crystal. Turning traditional watchmaking conventions completely on their head, Piaget eschewed the use of gold in favour of a new, doubly strong cobalt-based alloy for specific machine components. It also crafted a lightweight mainspring barrel and created a patented ‘staggered’ winding stem as a means of accommodating the dial’s off-centre position.

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize

Embodying undeniable beauty and mechanical creativity, Charles Girardier’s Tourbillon Signature Mysterieuse <<fleur de sel>> was the clear winner in the Ladies’ Complication Watch category. A welcome addition to the ever-burgeoning ranks of complex femme-focused timepieces, its blue enamel dial comes punctuated with a diamond-studded tourbillon at 6 o’clock and an intriguing rotating automaton burnished with the brand’s emblem at 12 o’clock. Powering it all is a CG1809 calibre self-winding mechanical movement, complete with a 46-hour power reserve.

Men’s Complication Watch Prize

Snapping up the Men’s Complication Watch Prize is Swiss haute horology label Greubel Forsey’s aptly-named Hand Made 1. Intriguingly, 95 percent of the wristwatch – including the hairspring – was made solely by hand-operated tools, with each unit requiring some 6,000 hours of work to complete. Featuring an almost industrial aesthetic, its open-worked dial is entirely unblemished, save for the hour and minute hands and an attention-grabbing tourbillon, with the words ‘HAND MADE’ proudly emblazoned at the 6 o’clock mark.

Chronometry Watch Prize

Taking home the Chronometry Watch Prize for the second year running was Ferdinand Berthoud, this time around with its FB 2RE.2. Supposedly inspired by the Marine Clock No.6 (crafted in 1768 by the legendary French watchmaker who gave the brand its name), its technically superlative design boasts an original movement that combines the fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second remontoir powering the deadbeat seconds display on its enamel dial. Available in 18K white gold or yellow gold, both iterations of this rare chronograph are limited to just 10 pieces.

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize

Vacheron Constantin’s 41.5mm Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton, the winner of the Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize, meanwhile, is a fine tribute to the brand’s renowned expertise in crafting the most intricate of ultra-thin wristwatches. Housed in a remarkably slim 8.1mm-thin pink gold case, its skeleton dial features a moon phase indicator and a perpetual calendar – one that requires no adjustment until 1 March 2100 – all powered by a cutting-edge Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 movement.

Innovation Prize

Injecting a welcome dash of Islamic culture to proceedings was the Innovation Watch Prize winner – the Hijri Perpetual Calendar, which came courtesy of luxury Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier. Rather than relying on the Gregorian calendar commonly used for crafting perpetual calendar complications, this innovative take on the technology is, instead, derived from the Hijri (the Islamic lunar calendar) – something of a first in terms of the marque’s wristwatch output. Housed in a platinum case, its slate dial is further embellished by all-Arabic moonphase, hour, minute, date and month all indicators.

Audacity Prize 2020

Completing our round-up of the best of the best GHPG winners is Schaffhausen-headquartered H. Moser & Cie, with its Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F finding much-deserved success in the Audacity category. Designed in partnership with MB&F, this outré wrist adornment is fronted by a fume (or gradated) dial tilted at 40 degrees under a sapphire crystal dome at 6 o’clock. The top of its blue-to-black fascia, meanwhile, is burnished with a one-minute flying tourbillon.

Femme Appeal: Dazzling ladies’ watches for every occasion

For centuries, the world’s leading haute horology labels have been churning out stunning wristwatches solely for male consumers. Over the past decade, though, a wind of chance has swept through the industry, driven by a surge in female buyers searching for equally precision-engineered timepieces. Such has been the impact of this growth that many watch manufactures have had to rethink their approach to create a new slew of high-end chronograms to meet this demand. In fact, their insatiable appetite for horological products even led Swiss watchmaker TAG Heuer to declare 2018 as being ‘the year of the woman’. With so many prime statement timepieces now on the market, it’s no stretch to say there’s something out there for every modern woman, for any occasion, as the examples below aptly demonstrate.

Everyday Watch: Cartier Tank Asymétrique

Those in search of a watch for daily use need look no further than the new Cartier Tank Asymétrique. Affording its wearer a subtle elegance with just a hint of the avant-garde, this timepieces breaks away from traditional circular dials in favour of a strong diamond-shaped face, a design inspired by the original rectangular design of its Tank predecessor.

Evening Watch: OMEGA Trésor

To add a little sparkle to your evening look, check out the latest addition to Swiss manufacture OMEGA’s much-lauded Trésor collection. Refusing to shy away from larger-sized female timepieces, OMEGA’s new timepiece in stainless steel measure some 40mm in diameter. Enhanced with a beautiful gradient blue dial ringed with a diamond-set bezel, this is truly a sleek accessory for the sophisticated woman.

Party Watch: Bremont Hawking Quantum

Raising the attention-grabbing bar to a new level is the Bremont Hawking Quantum, the brand’s first-ever ladies’ watch in its new Stephen Hawking-inspired collection. Measuring 34mm in diameter, this limited-edition timepiece features diamonds inset into the bezel as well as the index markers on its dial. Underneath its beautifully decorated fascia lies a mechanical movement that offers a 42-hour power reserve.

Gala Watch: Piaget Secret Cenote Cuff Watch

Nothing serves a high-society lady at an evening soiree better than jewels – unless, of course, it is a jewel-studded timepiece adorning one’s wrist. Just one such statement timepiece is the Piaget 18k Secret Cenote Cuff Watch, luxuriously set with 151 baguette-cut sapphires, 71 baguette-cut diamonds,100 brilliant-cut diamonds. A unique and imaginative creation inspired by the flight of exotic tropical birds, the dazzling aesthetic of this wrist accessory is sure to wow any crowd.

Feature image: Omega Tresor

Dive In: Dazzling timepieces that thrive underwater

Since the dawn of the 20th century, burgeoning interest in oceanic exploration saw the rise of diving as both a science and a sport. And long before the advent of computers and other technologically-driven equipment, dive watches were right there to help these intrepid explorers in their aquatic endeavours, primarily to precisely measure time spent by a diver underwater.

“Oceanic explorations have inspired the creation of a wide selection of luxuriously elegant dive watches”

These days, though, their popularity has spilled over into the general leisure domain, sparking a slew of quasi-counterfeit ‘dive watches’. To combat this, the International Organisation of Standardisation (ISO) has set guidelines and testing parameters that comprise a real dive watch. The true haute horology titans, though, have consistently produced technologically advanced wrist adornments that can not only withstand the oceanic depths, but that look good doing so. Below are seven of the latest standouts.

First up is Ulysse Nardin’s all-new Diver Net. A novel approach sparked the creation of this innovative design, with the brand looking to the sea for materials with which to enhance the watch in a truly sustainable fashion. This sees everything from its R-Straps and bezel to case and caseback crafted from recycled fishing nets, with even the crystal manufactured from recycled oceanic plastic. Under the hood beats an UN-118 movement that sees the black-on-green watch function to depths of up to 300m.

Another brand utilising a similar colour motif is Blancpain in the form of its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback. The first green version of this particular model, its dial and bezel boasts an almost military camouflage aesthetic. With an eye to ensuring safety, its 43.6mm case is crafted from satin-brushed ceramic, a highly scratch-resistant, anti-reflective material that bequeaths a sturdy robustness. Water resistant to 30 bar, its F385 calibre flyback chronograph movement is precise to 1/10 per second when timing events. A 50-hour power reserve completes its chrono diver appeal.

Next, watchmaker Bell & Ross has expanded its DIVER collection with the BR 03-92 DIVER ORANGE. If the PR materials are to be believed, this 250-piece limited release’s eye-catching colour was chosen to reflect ‘the visual codes associated with maritime safety’ and to guarantee ‘optimal reading time’. Burnished with the brand’s iconic square-shaped face, its 60-minute calibrated uni-directional rotating bezel affords divers the ability to precisely monitor their dive times. In all, it’s an intelligent design that unsurprisingly meets the ISO’s latest standards.

Equally placing durability at its core is the Panerai Submersible Azzuro – 42mm, Panerai’s most robust dive watch to date. Here, its movement is safely tucked away behind a screwed caseback, while a bridge device similarly protects the crown from any encroaching water. Water resistant to 1,000ft, its matte black dial is further punctuated with a date aperture and a small-seconds subdial. Available solely through the brand’s e-commerce channel, just 500 pieces will be released.

Embracing a more outré aesthetic is OMEGA in the form of its Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph. Combining titanium, tantalum and the brand’s proprietary rose gold alloy, Sedna gold, the result is a pink and blue feast for the eyes. Water resistant to 300m, the side of each Numbered Edition’s 44mm case comes emblazoned with its unique number. To highlight its aquatic nature, the timepiece even comes with a special presentation box styled like a water-resistant chamber.

Returning to a more traditional blue-hued dial is Tudor’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”. The ‘Fifty-Eight’ here is a reference to the year it released its first-ever divers’ watch waterproof to 200m. This new 39mm model comes with a blue domed dial ringed with a matte blue 60-minute uni-directional rotating bezel. Powered by a Calibre MT5402 movement that affords a generous 70-hour power reserve, it can be fitted with three different types of straps.

Sister brand Rolex – who created the world’s first hermetically-sealed watch back in 1927 – has also unveiled a new avatar of its iconic dive watch, the Rolex Submariner. First introduced in 1953, it has now been updated to a slightly larger 41mm case, replete with the cutting-edge calibre 3230 movement also introduced earlier this year. Fully waterproof to depths of 300m, its black dial is ringed with a black rotatable bezel with a Cerachrom insert – a virtually scratchproof and corrosion-resistant material – deft touches that highlights the watchmaker’s continually keen understanding of divers’ needs.