The do’s and don’ts of vintage watch repairs

Vintage wristwatches – timepieces typically made before the ’80s – are hugely prized and popular investment items for haute horology enthusiasts. Indeed, well-preserved older timepieces with strong provenances have yielded stunning auction results across the globe. A case in point is actor Paul Newman’s 1968 Rolex Daytona, which sold in 2017 for a staggering US$15.5 million. Due to their age, though, many of these collectibles show signs of wear and tear, ranging from scratched crystal to broken parts. But collectors should be aware of exactly how vintage watch repairs affect the overall timepiece if they want to maintain the integrity and value of their precious timepiece, as one wrong move could see their investment significantly devalue.

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine philipps — Image from Philipps

The value of original parts

Highly sought-after vintage timepieces were typically made for a particular purpose (or purposes) and often have a significant place in history. In an article posted by major international auction house Sotheby’s, watch collectors prize vintage watches because they represent monumental horological moments and are often part of major technological breakthroughs. Take, for example, the the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer, designed for the Everest expedition in 1953, the first watch to reach Mount Everest’s 8,848m summit. So, it makes sense why original parts, although flawed or damaged, can carry significant value for a vintage timepiece. For instance, signs of ageing like scratches can offer a unique story, and replacing those parts during vintage watch repairs would be akin to changing its history, and ultimately, its value.

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine quill and pad — Image from Quill & Pad

The three most important parts to a vintage watch

First and foremost, if you aren’t sure whether replacing a broken part would benefit or devalue a vintage watch, don’t do it. Once it’s done, it can’t be undone, and there is no way to return its value. Here are other points to note when contemplating vintage watch repairs:

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine classic watch repair (2) — Image from Classic Watch Repair

The crystals

When the crystal of a watch is severely cracked or damaged, repairing it is important. It is the first defense in protecting the most important parts of the watch – the dial, hands, and movement – from external substances that could cause irreparable damage to the movement, surely affecting the value of the watch.

Water-resistant gaskets

Similar to the crystal, gaskets are also an important part of the watch’s protective system. If a gasket is not restored or replaced, it will become damaged, brittle or flattened over time, creating a weak spot for the watch and potentially allowing dirt and other particles to enter and adversely affect its internal mechanisms.

Hands and dials

The dials and hands are always two factors of the watch that collectors look at when considering the value of a timepiece, particularly in the case of complex creations with multiple apertures. Replacing the dials and hands not only affects the aesthetics of the watch but also drastically brings down the value of it. The only exception to replacing the hands of a vintage timepiece, according to a watch specialist at Christie’s, is if the replacement part is age-appropriate, authentic and equally as rare as the watch itself. For example, a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6204 from 1954 with a mirror dial from the early ’60s would be more likely to retain its value. Alternatively, an experienced watchmaker may be able have an alternative solution to prevent further deterioration while keeping its original part, and therefore maintaining the integrity of the original model.

Finding an experienced watchmaker to service replacement part

Although it is recommended that vintage watch repairs should be handled by the original brand’s service centre, it isn’t a guarantee that they can even accept them. In some cases, parts that require repair are either rare or have ceased to be produced, thus hindering their ability to refurbish them. In these instances, you can still opt for an independent watchmaker, one specifically experienced in the precepts of proper watch restoration work. Here are a few recommendations:

DM2 Watch Service

Berne Horology

Classic Watch Repair

Feature image from Classic Watch Repair

Fair Game: Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai

Stunning timepieces showcased at the Watches & Wonders Shanghai exhibition

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), one of the most prestigious annual watch events in the world, emerged this year with a new identity as the Watches & Wonders fair. Following the cancellation of its inaugural Geneva event February, the organisers took the show on the road to Shanghai’s West Bund Art Centre in September. 11 renowned haute horology brands were in attendance over the five-day watch fair, showcasing enough cutting-edge high-end timepieces to tempt even the most discerning of watch collectors. Below, we highlight seven of the most outstanding models for your perusal.

iwc portugieser yacht club chronograph gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — IWC’s Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition ‘Orlebar Brown’

Starting the horological proceedings is IWC’s sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition ‘Orlebar Brown’. Created in partnership with British swimwear label Orlebar Brown, this athletic update to the iconic Portugieser collection features a nautically- inspired blue case, paired with equally sporty blue rubber straps and a co-branded side-fastener buckle. Fitted with an in-house calibre 89361 flyback chronograph movement, its elegant fascia is punctuated with a chronograph hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock and a hacking-seconds / date display at the 6 o’clock position. A 68-hour power reserve completes its robust yet sleek appeal.

“Watches & Wonders Shanghai showcased enough high-end watches to tempt even the most discerning collectors”

parmigiani fleurier tondagraph gt chronograph gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Blue by Parmiagani Fleurier

Another dazzling chronograph that debuted at Watches & Wonders Shanghai was the Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Blue from high-end watch manufacture Parmigiani Fleurier, with this attention-grabbing blue-on-rose gold timepiece, turning traditional watchmaking on its head via a movement organised around a central column wheel, a balance attached to a cross-bridge and a vertical rather than a horizontal clutch. Limited to a release of just 25 pieces, its latest PF071 movement oscillates at 36,000 vibrations per hour, ensuring accuracy to one-tenth of a second.

baume mercier clifton gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon Phase

An equally compelling haute horological offering came from Baume & Mercier in the form of its new Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase. Burnished in an attractive blue-white gold motif and powered by an in-house BM14 movement, its elegant lacquered gray dial boasts an eye-catching vertical layout with the day indicator at 12 o’clock and a moon phase subdial – ringed by a date indicator – taking place of pride at the 6 o’clock position. Equipped with a five-day power reserve, this 42mm wrist adornment is the perfect accessory for any debonair gentleman.

lange sohne tourbograph perpetual honeygold gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — A. Lange & Sohne’s Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold ‘Homage to F.A. Lange

Not to be outdone, A. Lange & Sohne unveiled its new Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” as an ode to its founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange. A veritable treasure trove of grand complications can be found atop its attractive black-rhodiumed dial, including a tourbillon, a rattrapante chronograph, a moon phase indicator and a perpetual calendar. Measuring 43mm in diameter, its case is crafted from 18K Honeygold, a top-secret proprietary alloy. Limited to a release of just 50 pieces, this is surely a guaranteed collector’s favourite.

jaeger lecoultre master grande tradition gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Jaeger LeCoultre’s Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

Raising the bar quite literally to the stars, meanwhile, was Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre with the latest iteration of its Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication. The jewel in its crown undeniably the arresting celestial vault – an astronomical complication encompassing an orbital tourbillon tied to a star chart that completes one revolution each sidereal day – that adorns its multi-layered dial. If that weren’t enough, it also comes outfitted with 24-hour indication and the brand’s iconic minute repeater with cathedral crystal gongs.

roger dubuis excalibur diabolus machina gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Diabolus in Machina

Inserting an element of the outré to the proceedings was Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Diabolus in Machina. Here, the large, skeletonised flying tourbillon has been crafted from CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM, the marque’s proprietary metal. Measuring a staggering 45mm in diameter, its open-worked dial is further punctuated with oversized Roman numerals as hour markers. A key draw is undoubtedly its minute repeater function, with the gongs chiming at C and G flat reminiscent of the “Diabolus in Musica”, or “the devil in music”, so often touted during medieval times.

cartier pasha gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier

Rounding out our list of top timepieces at Watches & Wonders Shanghai is the latest iteration of Cartier’s cult classic, the Pasha de Cartier. First introduced in 1985, this newest incarnation comes in a slew of interchangeable straps, case materials and bezels. The most dazzling of these is a white gold creation that features an attractively open-worked dial with a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, with its 1847 MC automatic movement wholly visible through its transparent sapphire crystal caseback. Rounding out its appeal, 180 shimmering diamonds adorn its bezel, movement, crown and buckle, ensuring that any passing gazes are firmly ensnared.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Photos: Watches & Wonders

Time to shine: Hong Kong’s incomparable luxury watch auction scene

The world is undeniably in a state of Covid-19 chaos, with growing unemployment, a spiraling death rate, and no vaccine on the immediate horizon all contributing to depressed economies across the globe, with the retail industry particularly hard-hit by ongoing lockdowns and social distancing measures.

But while retailers across the world shutter their doors or open them only to serve a disappointing trickle of customers, auction houses have become virtual one-stop shopping destinations for people buying luxury goods across all categories, thanks to Zoom previews, online video condition reports, and easy online bidding. One particularly hot category is luxury watches – an industry that in 2018 was valued at some US$6.93 billion – and an equally hot destination is Hong Kong.

In truth, Asia’s World City has long held pole position as the world’s biggest luxury watch market, despite boasting just seven million souls. Indeed, the SAR’s insatiable appetite for high-end timepieces has seen the city beat out the USA, Germany and even Switzerland – home of many haute horology labels – to achieve its market leader status.

Hong Kong’s love affair with timepieces stretches back to the 16th century, when Jesuit missionaries first introduced such chronological accessories to the region. Across the intervening centuries, it has in turns been a manufacturer and exporter of watch parts, a hub for watch assembly factories, and finally, at the dawn of the 21st century, as a shopping destination for discerning timepiece enthusiasts.

The past decade has also seen the SAR transform into a huge auction hotspot for the sale of rare luxury timepieces, with leading auction houses like Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Bonhams and Antiquorum all hosting multi-million-dollar auctions in the city. What has resulted is a slew of ultra exclusive – sometimes even unique – watches going under the gavel for astronomical prices and setting new records.

In July alone, Sotheby’s Hong Kong sold a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” Ref. 6264 for more than US$1.5 million, a record price for that model, and Christie’s sold a rare Patek Philippe Ref. 5033 minute repeater for US$1.95 million. In June, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, drew US$3.6 million for a Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 from the collection of watch industry titan, Jean-Claude Biver. Sotheby’s further made headlines that same month by breaking a record it held since 2018 for most expensive modern Rolex ever sold. The lot was a platinum Rolex Daytona ‘Zenith’ – a one-off creation featuring a Lapiz Lazuli dial – which went under the hammer at HK$25.3 million, five times its estimate.

Christie’s Hong Kong’s decision to differentiate it from the rest of the pack by offering it with its very own “The Masterpiece” sale led to a momentous occasion that birthed a new holder for the most expensive wristwatch ever sold in Asia at the auction house’s Autumn Auctions 2019, where the very first day of proceedings saw a rare 66-year-old pink gold 1953 Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 wristwatch getting sold for HK$70.2m, smashing last year’s record for the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction in Asia.

“Hong Kong has been the world’s biggest watch market for over a decade”

Despite the coronavirus pandemic – as well as stiff competition from other auction hotspots like Geneva, New York and London – Hong Kong’s reputation for being a true haute horology hub shows no signs of abating. Take, for instance, the November 30 “Ruby Collection” auction, a Hong Kong sale of Patek Philippes from an esteemed single-owner private collection, highlighted by a pair of possibly unique (no one has ever seen them before) models: a perpetual calendar and minute repeater/tourbillon, both with ruby hour markers and estimated to sell for less than US$1 million each. The collection also includes astronomical watches, including the ultra-complicated Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002, with 12 complications, estimated to fetch from US$1 million to US$1.5 million.

Time to shine Hong Kong's incomparable luxury watch auction scene gafencu magazine watches (5)

With countless luxury watch auction records set in the past year in Hong Kong, and with so many upcoming events to further enhance its reputation, it seems that neither its recent troubles or the coronavirus pandemic can even dent Asia’s World City’s reputation as one of the go-to auction hubs for discerning watch collectors seeking rare, otherwise unfindable statement timepieces of yesteryears.

Inner Vision: Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces

As true watch enthusiasts already know, the movements of any high-end timepiece are paragons of precision engineering, painstakingly crafted from hundreds of disparate parts to produce a mechanism far greater than the sum of its parts. Unlike most of wristwatch history, the past few decades have seen the rise of an enticingly open-worked aesthetic – that of the transparent skeleton dial. The mechanical wonders of these intricately-designed movements are no longer hidden beneath the dazzling dials that draw the eyes.

Below, we highlight seven latest models that merit your full attention.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches — PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition by Glashütte Original

First to the table is Glashütte Original’s all-new PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition. Part of a 25-piece limited release, this particular iteration features a platinum case and a stunning hand-engraved dial with an off-centre small-seconds subdial boasting skeletonised hour and minute hands, an elegant moon phase indicator and a beautiful flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the automatic Calibre 93-12 movement’s off-centre skeletonised rotor, an oscillating mass crafted from 21K gold. Emblazoned across a screw-mounted stainless steel plaque are the words “Flying Tourbillon”.

Another stunning skeleton design comes from high-end marque Piaget in the form of its Altiplano Ultimate Concept. As to be expected, the brand boasts the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, this new creation measures just 2mm in depth. In spite of its minimal footprint, this mechanical standout comprises 167 individual components. Due to space constraints, the traditional hour-and-minute dial has been innovatively reworked and placed under the bridge. Here, the hour hand has been replaced with an off-centre rotating disc, while the minute hand works in the usual way.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches (3) — HYT’s H5 Red

A more outré open-worked design comes from independent watchmaker HYT’s new H5 Red. Combining art, precision mechanical engineering and the brand’s signature fluid technology – which uses liquids flowing through ultra-thin capillaries to portray time – this limited-edition release has been burnished with an eye-catching red motif. Beneath its domed sapphire crystal case of this mammoth 48.8mm creation lies the skeleton dial, enticingly ringed red fluidic hour markers. Perforated red rubber straps complete its avant-garde appeal.

Spirit of Big Bang MECA-10 Black Magic by Hublot

Swiss watch manufacturer Hublot, meanwhile, is embracing the digital age whole-heartedly with its limited-release Spirit of Big Bang MECA-10 Black Magic. Targetting its legion of China ‘Hublotistas’, just three pieces of this attention-grabbing skeletonised timepiece were released, exclusively through the Hublot WeChat Member Centre. Featuring an eye-catching rectangular design that is iconic of the Spirit of Big Bang collection, it is powered by a new HUB1233 Calibre movement that offers a staggering 10-day power reserve.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches (5) — Free Bridge Infinity Edition by Girard-Perregaux

A similarly black-dominant open-faced creation comes from Girard-Perregaux in the form of its Free Bridge Infinity Edition. Crafted from steel but finished with a layer of extra-durable DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating, this 44mm wrist adornment is burnished with skeletonised dauphine-style hands, while the hour markers lie suspended above the skeleton dial proper. Adding a dash of colour to its aesthetic are the pink gold hour markers that ring its fascia.

Also utilising a black-on-rose-gold motif is the latest revamp to Jaquet Droz’s much-loved Grande Seconde Skelet-One. Stunningly minimalist, its stark design is transparent from both sides, drawing all attention firmly to the fully suspended gear train, skeletonised bridges and open-worked oscillating weight. This latest iteration also comes fitted with plasma ceramic – a first for the brand – which imbues it with robustness as well as a unique metallic glow.

“Skeleton dials allow you to view the marvellous movements of these watches”

Rounding out our list of outstanding skeleton dial watches is Vacheron Constantin’s 41.5mm Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton. Surely a tribute to the brand’s renowned skill in crafting the most intricate of wristwatch designs, it comes replete with a perpetual calendar and moon phase indicator powered by the cutting-edge Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 movement. Housed in a remarkably slim 8.1mm-thin pink gold case, this statement timepiece sets a new benchmark for the complexity allowed by such open-worked designs.

New Rolex 2020 Novelties: Submariner, Sky-Dweller, Datejust 31 and more…

After much anticipation, luxury watch manufacture Rolex has unveiled its latest designs for 2020, and they truly do not disappoint. Four iconic models from the Swiss haute horology brand’s Oyster Perpetual collection have been revamped as part of the Rolex 2020 Novelties, including the Submariner, the Sky-Dweller, the Datejust and entry-level Oyster Perpetual.

Sky-Dweller

Rolex’s signature world-time Sky-Dweller watch is back in three new iterations – yellow gold with a black dial, Everose gold with a white dial, and Everose gold with a chocolate brown dial. For the first time, it comes fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet, an innovative elastomer strap bequeaths it a more athletic appeal, replete with a power reserve of 72 hours.

Submariner

Eight new versions of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date are also part of the Rolex 2020 Novelties, all redesigned with a slightly larger 41mm case and remodelled bracelet. The latter comes fitted with a calibre 3235 movement, while the former is burnished with the all-new calibre 3230 launched just this year.

Datejust 31

A dazzling array of new Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 creations have been unveiled, all crafted from white Rolesor and featuring a variety of diamond-set and fluted bezels. Powered by a calibre 2236 movement, it comes in a buyer’s choice of aubergine, mint green, white lacquer or dark grey dials.

Oyster Perpetual

Rounding out the Rolex 2020 Novelties are two new sizes have been introduced to Rolex’s entry-level Oyster Perpetual range. The first is a larger 41mm edition – available with a silver or bright black dial – while the second comes in the form of a more delicate 36mm avatar, replete with a staggering array of lacquer dial hue options, including candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green. Both are fitted with the all-new calibre 3230 movement.

Blue hued: Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces

Blue-dialed watches, timepieces boasting a cerulean face, were once regarded merely as a passing fad, eschewed by haute horology brands as being somewhat inferior to their sleeker white- and black-fascia’d brethren.

But a change has befallen the industry of late, with blue-dial watches now eagerly embraced by discerning collectors, who see them as accessories to be sported proudly, ones that impart their wearers with an aura of je ne sais quoi. The preferences of these style setters have not gone unnoticed, with high-end watch manufactures rising to the occasion by releasing a slew of sleek, blue-hued iterations of some of their iconic designs. Among them, the seven below are some of the latest standouts.

Omega’s Constellation 29mm with aventurine dial

Ladies in search of a discreet blue-dialed design could do far worse than give Swiss luxury maison Omega’s latest aventurine-dial Constellation 29mm a thorough perusal. Here, its slender body is delicately punctuated with a diamond-set bezel and hour markers, all playing a perfect foil for the beautiful aventurine dial beneath, further enhanced by the buyer’s choice of yellow gold, Sedna rose gold or stainless steel case straps.

Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm by Audemars Piguet

Similarly utilising a diamond-set bezel to enhance a blue-dial design is Audemars Piguet’s latest Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm. One of four new avatars in the 34mm range, it boasts an attractive blue-grey “Grande Tapisserie” – a signature hand-guilloché square-cut pattern – dial that comes fitted with a date aperture at 3 o’clock. Underneath beats a Selfwinding Calibre 5800 movement, with a delicate stainless steel bracelet rounding out its sophisticated appeal.

“Blue-dial watches are now embraced by collectors as true statement timepieces”

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces royal oak Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44m — Ulysse Nardin’s *Diver Chronograph 44m* *Hammerhead Shark Limited* Edition

Gentlemen collectors are also spoilt for choice when it comes to stunningly intricate blue-dial creations. Take, for instance, the nautically-themed Diver Chronograph 44mm Hammerhead Shark Limited Edition from high-end watch manufacture Ulysse Nardin. Created to celebrate the partnership between the brand and shark conservation non-profit OCEARCH, this 300-piece limited edition sees a hammerhead shark lovingly engraved on the caseback, while its blue-dominant dial and straps are enhanced with bold red accents throughout.

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Audemars Piguet — Code 11.59 by *Audemars Piguet Selfwinding* Chronograph

For a more formally sophisticated aesthetic, a good place to start is the latest ‘ocean deep’ version of Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph. Measuring 41mm in diameter, the 18K pink gold case perfectly offsets its stunning smoked blue lacquer dial. This, in turn, plays host to a small seconds subdial, hour and minute hands and the flyback chronograph. Blue hand-stitched alligator leather straps complete its cerulean aesthetic.

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces chanel monster blue edition — Chanel’s *Monsieur Blue* Edition

Also joining the fray of blue-dialed watches is the new Monsieur Blue Edition from luxury label Chanel. Part of a limited release of just 55 pieces, this exclusive design houses the brand’s first-ever in-house manufactured movement that powers the jumping hour and minute retrograde complications proudly punctuating its dark blue fascia. A white gold case and matte blue straps round out its sleek appeal.

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Jaeger-LeCoultre — Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control *Memovox*

An even more intricate design comes from Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre, whose expertise in crafting complications is wholly evident in the new Master Control Memovox. An homage to the brand’s original 1950 Memovox, it resurrects the design’s classic combination of alarm and date displays on a silver sunray-brushed ring on a deep blue dial. Visible through its transparent caseback is the self-winding Calibre 956 movement, which also powers the Memovox’s iconic ‘school bell’ alarm chime.

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Star Legacy Orbis — *Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum* by Montblanc

For the well-heeled jetsetter, though, there is perhaps no better blue-faced companion than the new Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum from renowned German marque Montblanc. This elegant, intricate yet easily legible world-time device allows wearers to check times in multiple locations at a glance. Taking its international motif to heart, at its centre lies the North Pole, with the map of the Northern Hemisphere radiating outwards. It’s an attractive design, one that fully utilises blue tones to capture our planet in one dial, and aptly demonstrates the appeal of cerulean-fronted timepieces.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: A limited-edition release

Intricate, sophisticated watches have been something of a staple in the blockbuster Kingsman series, and the latest instalment – The King’s Man, set to release in Hong Kong threatres come September 17th – looks to be no different. To fill in the time until the movie releases, though, haute horology enthusiasts can have something of a sneak peek courtesy of a special partnership between luxury watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre and MR PORTER, the online fashion portal dubbed the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch.

Available exclusively on MR PORTER, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch actually features as part of the upcoming motion picture’s costume collection. With The King’s Man set to transport audiences some 100 years into the past to the founding of the Kingsmen agency, the wrist candy is set to be limited to a release of just 100 pieces.

Similarly looking to its past, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new design harks back to a 1907 pocket watch predecessor named ‘Couteau’, or ‘knife’ in French, and is equally sleek and slim at just 1.85mm thick. Fitted with an in-house calibre 849 movement, the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch is available now until September 6th.

Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum: The world in one watch

To say that a well-chosen watch is an apt reflection of its wearer is an understatement indeed. And for the well-heeled jetsetter, there’s no better chronographical companion than a world-time watch. For those in search of just such a timepiece, fear not, for German luxury label Montblanc has just unveiled the latest iteration of its beloved Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum.

First launched in 2014, the Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum has built a reputation for being an elegant, intricate yet easily legible world-time device, one that allows its wearer to check the time in multiple locations with just one glance. For the 2020 version, Montblanc has pulled out all the stops to draw attention firmly on the dial. At its centre lies the North Pole, with the map of the Northern Hemisphere radiating outward from it, enveloped in gently undulating guillochéd waves. The waves are two-toned, each representing day or night in a whopping 24 time zones, as etched into the circumference of the dial.

The Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum, which perfectly blends beautiful form with unquestionable function, comes in two avatars – a stainless steel version with blue dial and Sfumato alligator leather straps, and a 500-piece limited-release rose gold iteration with brown dial and matching Sfumato alligator leather straps.

Loving Butterfly Automaton: A stunning new timepiece from Jaquet Droz

Ever since watchmaker Pierre Jaquet-Droz created his first automata mechanisms back in the late 18th century, these jaw-dropping, precision engineered creations have been a significant part of the illustrious history of the haute horology label he founded, Jaquet Droz. Now, 280 years after its foundation, the brand has unveiled the latest iteration of one of these dazzling designs – the Loving Butterfly Automaton.

First launched in 2017, the Loving Butterfly Automaton has seen several different avatars across the years in a variety of dials, including onyx, mother-of-pearl and aventurine. This latest model, though, plumbs the depths of Mother Earth’s history to create a dial lovingly crafted from Chinchilla Red, petrified wood dating back some 140-180 million years in far-eastern Australia.

Inspired by an artwork titled Le Papillon Conduit Par l’Amour, which was sketched by The Draughtsman – an automata created by Henri-Louis Jaquet-Droz back in 1774 – this latest 43mm timepiece depicts a backdrop of a golden forest through which the chariot-riding Cherub and the Butterfly meander.

Here, the haute horlogerie label’s expertise in automata comes literally to life, with the butterfly’s wings fluttering as if about to take flight, and the chariot wheels turning in unison, all combining to create the optical illusion of life on the dial, an effect further enhanced by the 3D-effect of the hand-engraved 18K red gold applique work.

Just 28 pieces of this shining example of high-end watchmaking will be produced, and part of the proceeds of the Loving Butterfly Automaton will generously be donated to reforestation efforts across the world, and in Australia in particular, where wildfires have devastated the country. To find out more, visit this website.

Pelagos LHD: Latest left-hand iteration of iconic Tudor watch unveiled

The Pelagos – Swiss watchmaker Tudor’s iconic diving watch – has for decades been among the most beloved ocean-going timepieces amongst discerning collectors and military outfits across the globe. In 2017, though, the brand sought to widen the appeal of this unique design even further by creating a dedicated ‘LHD’, or ‘left-hand drive’, avatar.

This thoughtful titanium-cased, 42mm addition to the Tudor back catalogue meant the watch could be worn on the right wrist, with left-handed folks easily able to access the winding system placed at the 9 o’clock position.

Now, the Tudor Pelagos LHD has been gifted yet another updated iteration, one that sees the signature left-handed features further enhanced by the addition of a new dial, replete with an alternatingly coloured day display, and the ‘Pelagos’ logo emblazoned in red at 6 o’clock. Under the hood, meanwhile, beats the in-house MT5612-LHD Manufacture movement, while its caseback proudly displays the unique production number of this lovely numbered series.

Waterproof to 500m and fitted an automatic helium escape valve, the newest interpretation of the Pelagos LHD isn’t just a fitting homage to the innovative mechanical dive watches of bygone decades, but an apt acknowledgement of the unique requirements of watch collectors today.

Category: Watches