Buffalo O’clock: Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. On clocks.

Many in the West and beyond welcomed in their New Year on 1 January, all no doubt happy to bid adieu to the travails of 2020 and welcome the next 12 months with the hope of better things to come. For many others – in fact, for about a fifth of the global population – the real celebrations, of course, begin on Friday, 12 February this year, the first day of Chinese New Year.

Hoping to take full advantage of the upcoming festivities, several of the world’s leading haute horology houses have turned their eye to creating special 2021 timepieces as they look to usher in the Year of the Ox. Among the many models jostling for attention, seven merit particular mention.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. vacheron constantin — Vacheron Constantin’s The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox

First up is one of the newest addition to Swiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin’s Metiers d’Art collection – The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Ox. Inspired by jian zhi, a Chinese paper-cutting technique, its beautiful blue fascia features cut-out apertures for its day, date, hour and minute indicators. Available with either a blue or bronze-toned dial, taking pride of place in the centre of both variants is a lovingly engraved rendering of this mightiest of zodiac animals.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. blacpain front traditional chinese calendar — Blancpain’s Traditional Chinese Calendar

Eschewing the Gregorian calendar in favour of the Chinese version, meanwhile, is Blancpain’s aptly named Traditional Chinese Calendar. Its Arabic numeral date indicators and Roman numeral hour markers notwithstanding, this timepiece truly embraces the Chinese lunisolar calendar with its showcase of an array of traditional facets, including the zodiac signs, the five elements and the ten heavenly stems. The product of five long years of research and development, the 45mm watch is available in red gold as well as a 50-piece limited-edition platinum avatar.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox. harvey winston — Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic 36mm

Inserting some sparkle to proceedings, meanwhile, is renowned jeweller Harry Winston’s Premier Chinese New Year Ox Automatic 36mm. Designed with diamond-loving ladies very much in mind, this dazzling creation forefronts a vivid red mother-of-pearl dial, ably accentuated by a diamond-studded ox. As if that weren’t enough, the bezel of its rose gold case has also been given a diamond upgrade, with stunning red leather straps completing its festive appeal.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Piaget_Altiplano_Chinese New Year — Piaget’s Altiplano Year of the Ox

Boasting a similar diamond-studded bezel design is the Altiplano Year of the Ox, which is available from Swiss luxury maison Piaget, complete with a magnificently muscular ox fronting its gleaming white dial. This rugged zodiac symbol has been painstakingly rendered in Grand Feu cloisonne enamelling by master enameller Anita Porchet using a process that sees the dial fired at high temperatures repeatedly in order to ensure the image is perfectly captured, before being varnished to ensure longevity. Housed in a super-slim case – one the brand’s signature flourishes – the whole ensemble is powered by a cutting-edge 430P hand-wound movement.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox” — Breguet’s Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox”

Another bovine-inspired wristwatch comes courtesy of the French-founded luxury label Breguet, with its new Breguet Classique 7145 “Year of the Ox” featuring two buffalo bulls on an exquisite handcrafted dial. In order to capture the true vivacity of these magnificent beasts, the gold coating of each rendering has been electroplated multiple times, creating four contrasting shades. The hooves and horns, meanwhile, have been crafted in white gold, with the beauty of the piece standing as apt testament to the skill of Breguet’s craftsmen.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.Chopard LUC Urushi Year of the Ox — Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox

Building on the golden ox motif – albeit with a distinctly outré approach – is Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox. Here, the dial has been painstakingly fashioned using Urushi, a traditional Japanese lacquerware technique that uses continuously applied layers of lacquer and gold powder to great effect. The resultant fascia features a lushly coated ox pulling a wagon across the land. Coming with a 65-hour power reserve as standard, only 88 of these simply stunning timepieces will ever be made available.

Gafencu magazine gmhk time watches Buffalo O'clock Celebrate the upcoming Year of the Ox.PETITE HEURE MINUTE RELIEF BUFFALO_FRONT jaquet droz — Jaquet Droz’s Petite Heure Minute Buffalo

An even more exclusive creation – with just eight available in red gold and a further eight in white gold – is the Petite Heure Minute Buffalo, the latest work from renowned watchmaker Jaquet Droz. Featuring an onyx dial, it also boasts an enchanting top-mounted relief-engraved buffalo strolling along a plum tree on a raised tableau, all delivered through the wonder of hand-engraved gold appliqué work. Both variants measure 41mm in diameter, with the white gold style further accentuated with a gem-set bezel and lugs. From the symbolism of the imagery and the emblematic ox to the use of gold throughout, this stunning timepiece stands is the perfect tribute to the Year of the Metal Ox.

Prime Time: The best watches from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve

For some 20 years now, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) has been seen as one of the world’s preeminent haute horology events. Dedicated to celebrating and promoting the watchmaking art around the world, its annual awards presentation spotlights the most stunningly innovative and precision-engineered timepieces created by both major brands and independent manufacturers. This year, for the first time, a new body – the GPHG Academy, an assembly of 350 key watch industry specialists – determined the winners. In all, 84 timepieces were nominated across 14 categories, with seven of the most outstanding showcased below…

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prize

Taking home this year’s top prize, Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept was the product of six long years of development by the brand’s in-house Research and Innovation division. Just 2mm deep, it is said to be the thinnest mechanical watch in the world. In order to facilitate its super-slim design, its case and movement have been merged into one, alongside an integrated winding crown and ultra-thin sapphire crystal. Turning traditional watchmaking conventions completely on their head, Piaget eschewed the use of gold in favour of a new, doubly strong cobalt-based alloy for specific machine components. It also crafted a lightweight mainspring barrel and created a patented ‘staggered’ winding stem as a means of accommodating the dial’s off-centre position.

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize

Embodying undeniable beauty and mechanical creativity, Charles Girardier’s Tourbillon Signature Mysterieuse <<fleur de sel>> was the clear winner in the Ladies’ Complication Watch category. A welcome addition to the ever-burgeoning ranks of complex femme-focused timepieces, its blue enamel dial comes punctuated with a diamond-studded tourbillon at 6 o’clock and an intriguing rotating automaton burnished with the brand’s emblem at 12 o’clock. Powering it all is a CG1809 calibre self-winding mechanical movement, complete with a 46-hour power reserve.

Men’s Complication Watch Prize

Snapping up the Men’s Complication Watch Prize is Swiss haute horology label Greubel Forsey’s aptly-named Hand Made 1. Intriguingly, 95 percent of the wristwatch – including the hairspring – was made solely by hand-operated tools, with each unit requiring some 6,000 hours of work to complete. Featuring an almost industrial aesthetic, its open-worked dial is entirely unblemished, save for the hour and minute hands and an attention-grabbing tourbillon, with the words ‘HAND MADE’ proudly emblazoned at the 6 o’clock mark.

Chronometry Watch Prize

Taking home the Chronometry Watch Prize for the second year running was Ferdinand Berthoud, this time around with its FB 2RE.2. Supposedly inspired by the Marine Clock No.6 (crafted in 1768 by the legendary French watchmaker who gave the brand its name), its technically superlative design boasts an original movement that combines the fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second remontoir powering the deadbeat seconds display on its enamel dial. Available in 18K white gold or yellow gold, both iterations of this rare chronograph are limited to just 10 pieces.

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize

Vacheron Constantin’s 41.5mm Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton, the winner of the Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize, meanwhile, is a fine tribute to the brand’s renowned expertise in crafting the most intricate of ultra-thin wristwatches. Housed in a remarkably slim 8.1mm-thin pink gold case, its skeleton dial features a moon phase indicator and a perpetual calendar – one that requires no adjustment until 1 March 2100 – all powered by a cutting-edge Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 movement.

Innovation Prize

Injecting a welcome dash of Islamic culture to proceedings was the Innovation Watch Prize winner – the Hijri Perpetual Calendar, which came courtesy of luxury Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier. Rather than relying on the Gregorian calendar commonly used for crafting perpetual calendar complications, this innovative take on the technology is, instead, derived from the Hijri (the Islamic lunar calendar) – something of a first in terms of the marque’s wristwatch output. Housed in a platinum case, its slate dial is further embellished by all-Arabic moonphase, hour, minute, date and month all indicators.

Audacity Prize 2020

Completing our round-up of the best of the best GHPG winners is Schaffhausen-headquartered H. Moser & Cie, with its Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F finding much-deserved success in the Audacity category. Designed in partnership with MB&F, this outré wrist adornment is fronted by a fume (or gradated) dial tilted at 40 degrees under a sapphire crystal dome at 6 o’clock. The top of its blue-to-black fascia, meanwhile, is burnished with a one-minute flying tourbillon.

Femme Appeal: Dazzling ladies’ watches for every occasion

For centuries, the world’s leading haute horology labels have been churning out stunning wristwatches solely for male consumers. Over the past decade, though, a wind of chance has swept through the industry, driven by a surge in female buyers searching for equally precision-engineered timepieces. Such has been the impact of this growth that many watch manufactures have had to rethink their approach to create a new slew of high-end chronograms to meet this demand. In fact, their insatiable appetite for horological products even led Swiss watchmaker TAG Heuer to declare 2018 as being ‘the year of the woman’. With so many prime statement timepieces now on the market, it’s no stretch to say there’s something out there for every modern woman, for any occasion, as the examples below aptly demonstrate.

Everyday Watch: Cartier Tank Asymétrique

Those in search of a watch for daily use need look no further than the new Cartier Tank Asymétrique. Affording its wearer a subtle elegance with just a hint of the avant-garde, this timepieces breaks away from traditional circular dials in favour of a strong diamond-shaped face, a design inspired by the original rectangular design of its Tank predecessor.

Evening Watch: OMEGA Trésor

To add a little sparkle to your evening look, check out the latest addition to Swiss manufacture OMEGA’s much-lauded Trésor collection. Refusing to shy away from larger-sized female timepieces, OMEGA’s new timepiece in stainless steel measure some 40mm in diameter. Enhanced with a beautiful gradient blue dial ringed with a diamond-set bezel, this is truly a sleek accessory for the sophisticated woman.

Party Watch: Bremont Hawking Quantum

Raising the attention-grabbing bar to a new level is the Bremont Hawking Quantum, the brand’s first-ever ladies’ watch in its new Stephen Hawking-inspired collection. Measuring 34mm in diameter, this limited-edition timepiece features diamonds inset into the bezel as well as the index markers on its dial. Underneath its beautifully decorated fascia lies a mechanical movement that offers a 42-hour power reserve.

Gala Watch: Piaget Secret Cenote Cuff Watch

Nothing serves a high-society lady at an evening soiree better than jewels – unless, of course, it is a jewel-studded timepiece adorning one’s wrist. Just one such statement timepiece is the Piaget 18k Secret Cenote Cuff Watch, luxuriously set with 151 baguette-cut sapphires, 71 baguette-cut diamonds,100 brilliant-cut diamonds. A unique and imaginative creation inspired by the flight of exotic tropical birds, the dazzling aesthetic of this wrist accessory is sure to wow any crowd.

Feature image: Omega Tresor

Dive In: Dazzling timepieces that thrive underwater

Since the dawn of the 20th century, burgeoning interest in oceanic exploration saw the rise of diving as both a science and a sport. And long before the advent of computers and other technologically-driven equipment, dive watches were right there to help these intrepid explorers in their aquatic endeavours, primarily to precisely measure time spent by a diver underwater.

“Oceanic explorations have inspired the creation of a wide selection of luxuriously elegant dive watches”

These days, though, their popularity has spilled over into the general leisure domain, sparking a slew of quasi-counterfeit ‘dive watches’. To combat this, the International Organisation of Standardisation (ISO) has set guidelines and testing parameters that comprise a real dive watch. The true haute horology titans, though, have consistently produced technologically advanced wrist adornments that can not only withstand the oceanic depths, but that look good doing so. Below are seven of the latest standouts.

First up is Ulysse Nardin’s all-new Diver Net. A novel approach sparked the creation of this innovative design, with the brand looking to the sea for materials with which to enhance the watch in a truly sustainable fashion. This sees everything from its R-Straps and bezel to case and caseback crafted from recycled fishing nets, with even the crystal manufactured from recycled oceanic plastic. Under the hood beats an UN-118 movement that sees the black-on-green watch function to depths of up to 300m.

Another brand utilising a similar colour motif is Blancpain in the form of its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback. The first green version of this particular model, its dial and bezel boasts an almost military camouflage aesthetic. With an eye to ensuring safety, its 43.6mm case is crafted from satin-brushed ceramic, a highly scratch-resistant, anti-reflective material that bequeaths a sturdy robustness. Water resistant to 30 bar, its F385 calibre flyback chronograph movement is precise to 1/10 per second when timing events. A 50-hour power reserve completes its chrono diver appeal.

Next, watchmaker Bell & Ross has expanded its DIVER collection with the BR 03-92 DIVER ORANGE. If the PR materials are to be believed, this 250-piece limited release’s eye-catching colour was chosen to reflect ‘the visual codes associated with maritime safety’ and to guarantee ‘optimal reading time’. Burnished with the brand’s iconic square-shaped face, its 60-minute calibrated uni-directional rotating bezel affords divers the ability to precisely monitor their dive times. In all, it’s an intelligent design that unsurprisingly meets the ISO’s latest standards.

Equally placing durability at its core is the Panerai Submersible Azzuro – 42mm, Panerai’s most robust dive watch to date. Here, its movement is safely tucked away behind a screwed caseback, while a bridge device similarly protects the crown from any encroaching water. Water resistant to 1,000ft, its matte black dial is further punctuated with a date aperture and a small-seconds subdial. Available solely through the brand’s e-commerce channel, just 500 pieces will be released.

Embracing a more outré aesthetic is OMEGA in the form of its Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph. Combining titanium, tantalum and the brand’s proprietary rose gold alloy, Sedna gold, the result is a pink and blue feast for the eyes. Water resistant to 300m, the side of each Numbered Edition’s 44mm case comes emblazoned with its unique number. To highlight its aquatic nature, the timepiece even comes with a special presentation box styled like a water-resistant chamber.

Returning to a more traditional blue-hued dial is Tudor’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”. The ‘Fifty-Eight’ here is a reference to the year it released its first-ever divers’ watch waterproof to 200m. This new 39mm model comes with a blue domed dial ringed with a matte blue 60-minute uni-directional rotating bezel. Powered by a Calibre MT5402 movement that affords a generous 70-hour power reserve, it can be fitted with three different types of straps.

Sister brand Rolex – who created the world’s first hermetically-sealed watch back in 1927 – has also unveiled a new avatar of its iconic dive watch, the Rolex Submariner. First introduced in 1953, it has now been updated to a slightly larger 41mm case, replete with the cutting-edge calibre 3230 movement also introduced earlier this year. Fully waterproof to depths of 300m, its black dial is ringed with a black rotatable bezel with a Cerachrom insert – a virtually scratchproof and corrosion-resistant material – deft touches that highlights the watchmaker’s continually keen understanding of divers’ needs.

The do’s and don’ts of vintage watch repairs

Vintage wristwatches – timepieces typically made before the ’80s – are hugely prized and popular investment items for haute horology enthusiasts. Indeed, well-preserved older timepieces with strong provenances have yielded stunning auction results across the globe. A case in point is actor Paul Newman’s 1968 Rolex Daytona, which sold in 2017 for a staggering US$15.5 million. Due to their age, though, many of these collectibles show signs of wear and tear, ranging from scratched crystal to broken parts. But collectors should be aware of exactly how vintage watch repairs affect the overall timepiece if they want to maintain the integrity and value of their precious timepiece, as one wrong move could see their investment significantly devalue.

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine philipps — Image from Philipps

The value of original parts

Highly sought-after vintage timepieces were typically made for a particular purpose (or purposes) and often have a significant place in history. In an article posted by major international auction house Sotheby’s, watch collectors prize vintage watches because they represent monumental horological moments and are often part of major technological breakthroughs. Take, for example, the the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer, designed for the Everest expedition in 1953, the first watch to reach Mount Everest’s 8,848m summit. So, it makes sense why original parts, although flawed or damaged, can carry significant value for a vintage timepiece. For instance, signs of ageing like scratches can offer a unique story, and replacing those parts during vintage watch repairs would be akin to changing its history, and ultimately, its value.

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine quill and pad — Image from Quill & Pad

The three most important parts to a vintage watch

First and foremost, if you aren’t sure whether replacing a broken part would benefit or devalue a vintage watch, don’t do it. Once it’s done, it can’t be undone, and there is no way to return its value. Here are other points to note when contemplating vintage watch repairs:

Servicing a vintage watch for repair gafencu magazine classic watch repair (2) — Image from Classic Watch Repair

The crystals

When the crystal of a watch is severely cracked or damaged, repairing it is important. It is the first defense in protecting the most important parts of the watch – the dial, hands, and movement – from external substances that could cause irreparable damage to the movement, surely affecting the value of the watch.

Water-resistant gaskets

Similar to the crystal, gaskets are also an important part of the watch’s protective system. If a gasket is not restored or replaced, it will become damaged, brittle or flattened over time, creating a weak spot for the watch and potentially allowing dirt and other particles to enter and adversely affect its internal mechanisms.

Hands and dials

The dials and hands are always two factors of the watch that collectors look at when considering the value of a timepiece, particularly in the case of complex creations with multiple apertures. Replacing the dials and hands not only affects the aesthetics of the watch but also drastically brings down the value of it. The only exception to replacing the hands of a vintage timepiece, according to a watch specialist at Christie’s, is if the replacement part is age-appropriate, authentic and equally as rare as the watch itself. For example, a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6204 from 1954 with a mirror dial from the early ’60s would be more likely to retain its value. Alternatively, an experienced watchmaker may be able have an alternative solution to prevent further deterioration while keeping its original part, and therefore maintaining the integrity of the original model.

Finding an experienced watchmaker to service replacement part

Although it is recommended that vintage watch repairs should be handled by the original brand’s service centre, it isn’t a guarantee that they can even accept them. In some cases, parts that require repair are either rare or have ceased to be produced, thus hindering their ability to refurbish them. In these instances, you can still opt for an independent watchmaker, one specifically experienced in the precepts of proper watch restoration work. Here are a few recommendations:

DM2 Watch Service

Berne Horology

Classic Watch Repair

Feature image from Classic Watch Repair

Fair Game: Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai

Video Player

Media error: Format(s) not supported or source(s) not found

Download File: https://www.gafencushop.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/watches_web_nov20_HD.mp4?_=1

00:00

Use Up/Down Arrow keys to increase or decrease volume.

Stunning timepieces showcased at the Watches & Wonders Shanghai exhibition

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), one of the most prestigious annual watch events in the world, emerged this year with a new identity as the Watches & Wonders fair. Following the cancellation of its inaugural Geneva event February, the organisers took the show on the road to Shanghai’s West Bund Art Centre in September. 11 renowned haute horology brands were in attendance over the five-day watch fair, showcasing enough cutting-edge high-end timepieces to tempt even the most discerning of watch collectors. Below, we highlight seven of the most outstanding models for your perusal.

iwc portugieser yacht club chronograph gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — IWC’s Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition ‘Orlebar Brown’

Starting the horological proceedings is IWC’s sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition ‘Orlebar Brown’. Created in partnership with British swimwear label Orlebar Brown, this athletic update to the iconic Portugieser collection features a nautically- inspired blue case, paired with equally sporty blue rubber straps and a co-branded side-fastener buckle. Fitted with an in-house calibre 89361 flyback chronograph movement, its elegant fascia is punctuated with a chronograph hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock and a hacking-seconds / date display at the 6 o’clock position. A 68-hour power reserve completes its robust yet sleek appeal.

“Watches & Wonders Shanghai showcased enough high-end watches to tempt even the most discerning collectors”

parmigiani fleurier tondagraph gt chronograph gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Blue by Parmiagani Fleurier

Another dazzling chronograph that debuted at Watches & Wonders Shanghai was the Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Blue from high-end watch manufacture Parmigiani Fleurier, with this attention-grabbing blue-on-rose gold timepiece, turning traditional watchmaking on its head via a movement organised around a central column wheel, a balance attached to a cross-bridge and a vertical rather than a horizontal clutch. Limited to a release of just 25 pieces, its latest PF071 movement oscillates at 36,000 vibrations per hour, ensuring accuracy to one-tenth of a second.

baume mercier clifton gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon Phase

An equally compelling haute horological offering came from Baume & Mercier in the form of its new Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase. Burnished in an attractive blue-white gold motif and powered by an in-house BM14 movement, its elegant lacquered gray dial boasts an eye-catching vertical layout with the day indicator at 12 o’clock and a moon phase subdial – ringed by a date indicator – taking place of pride at the 6 o’clock position. Equipped with a five-day power reserve, this 42mm wrist adornment is the perfect accessory for any debonair gentleman.

lange sohne tourbograph perpetual honeygold gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — A. Lange & Sohne’s Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold ‘Homage to F.A. Lange

Not to be outdone, A. Lange & Sohne unveiled its new Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” as an ode to its founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange. A veritable treasure trove of grand complications can be found atop its attractive black-rhodiumed dial, including a tourbillon, a rattrapante chronograph, a moon phase indicator and a perpetual calendar. Measuring 43mm in diameter, its case is crafted from 18K Honeygold, a top-secret proprietary alloy. Limited to a release of just 50 pieces, this is surely a guaranteed collector’s favourite.

jaeger lecoultre master grande tradition gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Jaeger LeCoultre’s Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

Raising the bar quite literally to the stars, meanwhile, was Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre with the latest iteration of its Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication. The jewel in its crown undeniably the arresting celestial vault – an astronomical complication encompassing an orbital tourbillon tied to a star chart that completes one revolution each sidereal day – that adorns its multi-layered dial. If that weren’t enough, it also comes outfitted with 24-hour indication and the brand’s iconic minute repeater with cathedral crystal gongs.

roger dubuis excalibur diabolus machina gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Diabolus in Machina

Inserting an element of the outré to the proceedings was Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Diabolus in Machina. Here, the large, skeletonised flying tourbillon has been crafted from CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM, the marque’s proprietary metal. Measuring a staggering 45mm in diameter, its open-worked dial is further punctuated with oversized Roman numerals as hour markers. A key draw is undoubtedly its minute repeater function, with the gongs chiming at C and G flat reminiscent of the “Diabolus in Musica”, or “the devil in music”, so often touted during medieval times.

cartier pasha gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai — Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier

Rounding out our list of top timepieces at Watches & Wonders Shanghai is the latest iteration of Cartier’s cult classic, the Pasha de Cartier. First introduced in 1985, this newest incarnation comes in a slew of interchangeable straps, case materials and bezels. The most dazzling of these is a white gold creation that features an attractively open-worked dial with a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, with its 1847 MC automatic movement wholly visible through its transparent sapphire crystal caseback. Rounding out its appeal, 180 shimmering diamonds adorn its bezel, movement, crown and buckle, ensuring that any passing gazes are firmly ensnared.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Photos: Watches & Wonders

Time to shine: Hong Kong’s incomparable luxury watch auction scene

The world is undeniably in a state of Covid-19 chaos, with growing unemployment, a spiraling death rate, and no vaccine on the immediate horizon all contributing to depressed economies across the globe, with the retail industry particularly hard-hit by ongoing lockdowns and social distancing measures.

But while retailers across the world shutter their doors or open them only to serve a disappointing trickle of customers, auction houses have become virtual one-stop shopping destinations for people buying luxury goods across all categories, thanks to Zoom previews, online video condition reports, and easy online bidding. One particularly hot category is luxury watches – an industry that in 2018 was valued at some US$6.93 billion – and an equally hot destination is Hong Kong.

In truth, Asia’s World City has long held pole position as the world’s biggest luxury watch market, despite boasting just seven million souls. Indeed, the SAR’s insatiable appetite for high-end timepieces has seen the city beat out the USA, Germany and even Switzerland – home of many haute horology labels – to achieve its market leader status.

Hong Kong’s love affair with timepieces stretches back to the 16th century, when Jesuit missionaries first introduced such chronological accessories to the region. Across the intervening centuries, it has in turns been a manufacturer and exporter of watch parts, a hub for watch assembly factories, and finally, at the dawn of the 21st century, as a shopping destination for discerning timepiece enthusiasts.

The past decade has also seen the SAR transform into a huge auction hotspot for the sale of rare luxury timepieces, with leading auction houses like Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Bonhams and Antiquorum all hosting multi-million-dollar auctions in the city. What has resulted is a slew of ultra exclusive – sometimes even unique – watches going under the gavel for astronomical prices and setting new records.

In July alone, Sotheby’s Hong Kong sold a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” Ref. 6264 for more than US$1.5 million, a record price for that model, and Christie’s sold a rare Patek Philippe Ref. 5033 minute repeater for US$1.95 million. In June, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, drew US$3.6 million for a Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 from the collection of watch industry titan, Jean-Claude Biver. Sotheby’s further made headlines that same month by breaking a record it held since 2018 for most expensive modern Rolex ever sold. The lot was a platinum Rolex Daytona ‘Zenith’ – a one-off creation featuring a Lapiz Lazuli dial – which went under the hammer at HK$25.3 million, five times its estimate.

Christie’s Hong Kong’s decision to differentiate it from the rest of the pack by offering it with its very own “The Masterpiece” sale led to a momentous occasion that birthed a new holder for the most expensive wristwatch ever sold in Asia at the auction house’s Autumn Auctions 2019, where the very first day of proceedings saw a rare 66-year-old pink gold 1953 Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 wristwatch getting sold for HK$70.2m, smashing last year’s record for the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction in Asia.

“Hong Kong has been the world’s biggest watch market for over a decade”

Despite the coronavirus pandemic – as well as stiff competition from other auction hotspots like Geneva, New York and London – Hong Kong’s reputation for being a true haute horology hub shows no signs of abating. Take, for instance, the November 30 “Ruby Collection” auction, a Hong Kong sale of Patek Philippes from an esteemed single-owner private collection, highlighted by a pair of possibly unique (no one has ever seen them before) models: a perpetual calendar and minute repeater/tourbillon, both with ruby hour markers and estimated to sell for less than US$1 million each. The collection also includes astronomical watches, including the ultra-complicated Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002, with 12 complications, estimated to fetch from US$1 million to US$1.5 million.

Time to shine Hong Kong's incomparable luxury watch auction scene gafencu magazine watches (5)

With countless luxury watch auction records set in the past year in Hong Kong, and with so many upcoming events to further enhance its reputation, it seems that neither its recent troubles or the coronavirus pandemic can even dent Asia’s World City’s reputation as one of the go-to auction hubs for discerning watch collectors seeking rare, otherwise unfindable statement timepieces of yesteryears.

Inner Vision: Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces

As true watch enthusiasts already know, the movements of any high-end timepiece are paragons of precision engineering, painstakingly crafted from hundreds of disparate parts to produce a mechanism far greater than the sum of its parts. Unlike most of wristwatch history, the past few decades have seen the rise of an enticingly open-worked aesthetic – that of the transparent skeleton dial. The mechanical wonders of these intricately-designed movements are no longer hidden beneath the dazzling dials that draw the eyes.

Below, we highlight seven latest models that merit your full attention.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches — PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition by Glashütte Original

First to the table is Glashütte Original’s all-new PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition. Part of a 25-piece limited release, this particular iteration features a platinum case and a stunning hand-engraved dial with an off-centre small-seconds subdial boasting skeletonised hour and minute hands, an elegant moon phase indicator and a beautiful flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the automatic Calibre 93-12 movement’s off-centre skeletonised rotor, an oscillating mass crafted from 21K gold. Emblazoned across a screw-mounted stainless steel plaque are the words “Flying Tourbillon”.

Another stunning skeleton design comes from high-end marque Piaget in the form of its Altiplano Ultimate Concept. As to be expected, the brand boasts the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, this new creation measures just 2mm in depth. In spite of its minimal footprint, this mechanical standout comprises 167 individual components. Due to space constraints, the traditional hour-and-minute dial has been innovatively reworked and placed under the bridge. Here, the hour hand has been replaced with an off-centre rotating disc, while the minute hand works in the usual way.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches (3) — HYT’s H5 Red

A more outré open-worked design comes from independent watchmaker HYT’s new H5 Red. Combining art, precision mechanical engineering and the brand’s signature fluid technology – which uses liquids flowing through ultra-thin capillaries to portray time – this limited-edition release has been burnished with an eye-catching red motif. Beneath its domed sapphire crystal case of this mammoth 48.8mm creation lies the skeleton dial, enticingly ringed red fluidic hour markers. Perforated red rubber straps complete its avant-garde appeal.

Spirit of Big Bang MECA-10 Black Magic by Hublot

Swiss watch manufacturer Hublot, meanwhile, is embracing the digital age whole-heartedly with its limited-release Spirit of Big Bang MECA-10 Black Magic. Targetting its legion of China ‘Hublotistas’, just three pieces of this attention-grabbing skeletonised timepiece were released, exclusively through the Hublot WeChat Member Centre. Featuring an eye-catching rectangular design that is iconic of the Spirit of Big Bang collection, it is powered by a new HUB1233 Calibre movement that offers a staggering 10-day power reserve.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches (5) — Free Bridge Infinity Edition by Girard-Perregaux

A similarly black-dominant open-faced creation comes from Girard-Perregaux in the form of its Free Bridge Infinity Edition. Crafted from steel but finished with a layer of extra-durable DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating, this 44mm wrist adornment is burnished with skeletonised dauphine-style hands, while the hour markers lie suspended above the skeleton dial proper. Adding a dash of colour to its aesthetic are the pink gold hour markers that ring its fascia.

Also utilising a black-on-rose-gold motif is the latest revamp to Jaquet Droz’s much-loved Grande Seconde Skelet-One. Stunningly minimalist, its stark design is transparent from both sides, drawing all attention firmly to the fully suspended gear train, skeletonised bridges and open-worked oscillating weight. This latest iteration also comes fitted with plasma ceramic – a first for the brand – which imbues it with robustness as well as a unique metallic glow.

“Skeleton dials allow you to view the marvellous movements of these watches”

Rounding out our list of outstanding skeleton dial watches is Vacheron Constantin’s 41.5mm Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton. Surely a tribute to the brand’s renowned skill in crafting the most intricate of wristwatch designs, it comes replete with a perpetual calendar and moon phase indicator powered by the cutting-edge Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 movement. Housed in a remarkably slim 8.1mm-thin pink gold case, this statement timepiece sets a new benchmark for the complexity allowed by such open-worked designs.

New Rolex 2020 Novelties: Submariner, Sky-Dweller, Datejust 31 and more…

After much anticipation, luxury watch manufacture Rolex has unveiled its latest designs for 2020, and they truly do not disappoint. Four iconic models from the Swiss haute horology brand’s Oyster Perpetual collection have been revamped as part of the Rolex 2020 Novelties, including the Submariner, the Sky-Dweller, the Datejust and entry-level Oyster Perpetual.

Sky-Dweller

Rolex’s signature world-time Sky-Dweller watch is back in three new iterations – yellow gold with a black dial, Everose gold with a white dial, and Everose gold with a chocolate brown dial. For the first time, it comes fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet, an innovative elastomer strap bequeaths it a more athletic appeal, replete with a power reserve of 72 hours.

Submariner

Eight new versions of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date are also part of the Rolex 2020 Novelties, all redesigned with a slightly larger 41mm case and remodelled bracelet. The latter comes fitted with a calibre 3235 movement, while the former is burnished with the all-new calibre 3230 launched just this year.

Datejust 31

A dazzling array of new Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 creations have been unveiled, all crafted from white Rolesor and featuring a variety of diamond-set and fluted bezels. Powered by a calibre 2236 movement, it comes in a buyer’s choice of aubergine, mint green, white lacquer or dark grey dials.

Oyster Perpetual

Rounding out the Rolex 2020 Novelties are two new sizes have been introduced to Rolex’s entry-level Oyster Perpetual range. The first is a larger 41mm edition – available with a silver or bright black dial – while the second comes in the form of a more delicate 36mm avatar, replete with a staggering array of lacquer dial hue options, including candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green. Both are fitted with the all-new calibre 3230 movement.

Blue hued: Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces

Blue-dialed watches, timepieces boasting a cerulean face, were once regarded merely as a passing fad, eschewed by haute horology brands as being somewhat inferior to their sleeker white- and black-fascia’d brethren.

But a change has befallen the industry of late, with blue-dial watches now eagerly embraced by discerning collectors, who see them as accessories to be sported proudly, ones that impart their wearers with an aura of je ne sais quoi. The preferences of these style setters have not gone unnoticed, with high-end watch manufactures rising to the occasion by releasing a slew of sleek, blue-hued iterations of some of their iconic designs. Among them, the seven below are some of the latest standouts.

Omega’s Constellation 29mm with aventurine dial

Ladies in search of a discreet blue-dialed design could do far worse than give Swiss luxury maison Omega’s latest aventurine-dial Constellation 29mm a thorough perusal. Here, its slender body is delicately punctuated with a diamond-set bezel and hour markers, all playing a perfect foil for the beautiful aventurine dial beneath, further enhanced by the buyer’s choice of yellow gold, Sedna rose gold or stainless steel case straps.

Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm by Audemars Piguet

Similarly utilising a diamond-set bezel to enhance a blue-dial design is Audemars Piguet’s latest Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm. One of four new avatars in the 34mm range, it boasts an attractive blue-grey “Grande Tapisserie” – a signature hand-guilloché square-cut pattern – dial that comes fitted with a date aperture at 3 o’clock. Underneath beats a Selfwinding Calibre 5800 movement, with a delicate stainless steel bracelet rounding out its sophisticated appeal.

“Blue-dial watches are now embraced by collectors as true statement timepieces”

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces royal oak Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44m — Ulysse Nardin’s *Diver Chronograph 44m* *Hammerhead Shark Limited* Edition

Gentlemen collectors are also spoilt for choice when it comes to stunningly intricate blue-dial creations. Take, for instance, the nautically-themed Diver Chronograph 44mm Hammerhead Shark Limited Edition from high-end watch manufacture Ulysse Nardin. Created to celebrate the partnership between the brand and shark conservation non-profit OCEARCH, this 300-piece limited edition sees a hammerhead shark lovingly engraved on the caseback, while its blue-dominant dial and straps are enhanced with bold red accents throughout.

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Audemars Piguet — Code 11.59 by *Audemars Piguet Selfwinding* Chronograph

For a more formally sophisticated aesthetic, a good place to start is the latest ‘ocean deep’ version of Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph. Measuring 41mm in diameter, the 18K pink gold case perfectly offsets its stunning smoked blue lacquer dial. This, in turn, plays host to a small seconds subdial, hour and minute hands and the flyback chronograph. Blue hand-stitched alligator leather straps complete its cerulean aesthetic.

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces chanel monster blue edition — Chanel’s *Monsieur Blue* Edition

Also joining the fray of blue-dialed watches is the new Monsieur Blue Edition from luxury label Chanel. Part of a limited release of just 55 pieces, this exclusive design houses the brand’s first-ever in-house manufactured movement that powers the jumping hour and minute retrograde complications proudly punctuating its dark blue fascia. A white gold case and matte blue straps round out its sleek appeal.

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Jaeger-LeCoultre — Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control *Memovox*

An even more intricate design comes from Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre, whose expertise in crafting complications is wholly evident in the new Master Control Memovox. An homage to the brand’s original 1950 Memovox, it resurrects the design’s classic combination of alarm and date displays on a silver sunray-brushed ring on a deep blue dial. Visible through its transparent caseback is the self-winding Calibre 956 movement, which also powers the Memovox’s iconic ‘school bell’ alarm chime.

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Star Legacy Orbis — *Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum* by Montblanc

For the well-heeled jetsetter, though, there is perhaps no better blue-faced companion than the new Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum from renowned German marque Montblanc. This elegant, intricate yet easily legible world-time device allows wearers to check times in multiple locations at a glance. Taking its international motif to heart, at its centre lies the North Pole, with the map of the Northern Hemisphere radiating outwards. It’s an attractive design, one that fully utilises blue tones to capture our planet in one dial, and aptly demonstrates the appeal of cerulean-fronted timepieces.