Blue hued: Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces

Blue-dialed watches, timepieces boasting a cerulean face, were once regarded merely as a passing fad, eschewed by haute horology brands as being somewhat inferior to their sleeker white- and black-fascia’d brethren. 

HK Time Sept_banner gafencu magazine

But a change has befallen the industry of late, with blue-dial watches now eagerly embraced by discerning collectors, who see them as accessories to be sported proudly, ones that impart their wearers with an aura of je ne sais quoi. The preferences of these style setters have not gone unnoticed, with high-end watch manufactures rising to the occasion by releasing a slew of sleek, blue-hued iterations of some of their iconic designs. Among them, the seven below are some of the latest standouts. 

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces omega constellation 2.9mmOmega’s Constellation 29mm with aventurine dial

Ladies in search of a discreet blue-dialed design could do far worse than give Swiss luxury maison Omega’s latest aventurine-dial Constellation 29mm a thorough perusal. Here, its slender body is delicately punctuated with a diamond-set bezel and hour markers, all playing a perfect foil for the beautiful aventurine dial beneath, further enhanced by the buyer’s choice of yellow gold, Sedna rose gold or stainless steel case straps. 

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces royal oak selfwinding 34mmRoyal Oak Selfwinding 34mm by Audemars Piguet

Similarly utilising a diamond-set bezel to enhance a blue-dial design is Audemars Piguet’s latest Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm. One of four new avatars in the 34mm range, it boasts an attractive blue-grey “Grande Tapisserie” – a signature hand-guilloché square-cut pattern – dial that comes fitted with a date aperture at 3 o’clock. Underneath beats a Selfwinding Calibre 5800 movement, with a delicate stainless steel bracelet rounding out its sophisticated appeal. 

Blue-dial watches are now embraced by collectors as true statement timepieces”

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces royal oak Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44m
Ulysse Nardin’s Diver Chronograph 44m Hammerhead Shark Limited Edition

Gentlemen collectors are also spoilt for choice when it comes to stunningly intricate blue-dial creations. Take, for instance, the nautically-themed Diver Chronograph 44mm Hammerhead Shark Limited Edition from high-end watch manufacture Ulysse Nardin. Created to celebrate the partnership between the brand and shark conservation non-profit OCEARCH, this 300-piece limited edition sees a hammerhead shark lovingly engraved on the caseback, while its blue-dominant dial and straps are enhanced with bold red accents throughout. 

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Audemars Piguet
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph

For a more formally sophisticated aesthetic, a good place to start is the latest ‘ocean deep’ version of Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph. Measuring 41mm in diameter, the 18K pink gold case perfectly offsets its stunning smoked blue lacquer dial. This, in turn, plays host to a small seconds subdial, hour and minute hands and the flyback chronograph. Blue hand-stitched alligator leather straps complete its cerulean aesthetic. 

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces chanel monster blue edition
Chanel’s Monsieur Blue Edition

Also joining the fray of blue-dialed watches is the new Monsieur Blue Edition from luxury label Chanel. Part of a limited release of just 55 pieces, this exclusive design houses the brand’s first-ever in-house manufactured movement that powers the jumping hour and minute retrograde complications proudly punctuating its dark blue fascia. A white gold case and matte blue straps round out its sleek appeal.

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Memovox

An even more intricate design comes from Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre, whose expertise in crafting complications is wholly evident in the new Master Control Memovox. An homage to the brand’s original 1950 Memovox, it resurrects the design’s classic combination of alarm and date displays on a silver sunray-brushed ring on a deep blue dial. Visible through its transparent caseback is the self-winding Calibre 956 movement, which also powers the Memovox’s iconic ‘school bell’ alarm chime. 

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Star Legacy Orbis
Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum by Montblanc

For the well-heeled jetsetter, though, there is perhaps no better blue-faced companion than the new Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum from renowned German marque Montblanc. This elegant, intricate yet easily legible world-time device allows wearers to check times in multiple locations at a glance. Taking its international motif to heart, at its centre lies the North Pole, with the map of the Northern Hemisphere radiating outwards. It’s an attractive design, one that fully utilises blue tones to capture our planet in one dial, and aptly demonstrates the appeal of cerulean-fronted timepieces.  

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: A limited-edition release

Intricate, sophisticated watches have been something of a staple in the blockbuster Kingsman series, and the latest instalment – The King’s Man, set to release in Hong Kong threatres come September 17th – looks to be no different. To fill in the time until the movie releases, though, haute horology enthusiasts can have something of a sneak peek courtesy of a special partnership between luxury watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre and MR PORTER, the online fashion portal dubbed the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch. 

Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: A limited-edition release

Available exclusively on MR PORTER, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch actually features as part of the upcoming motion picture’s costume collection. With The King’s Man set to transport audiences some 100 years into the past to the founding of the Kingsmen agency, the wrist candy is set to be limited to a release of just 100 pieces. Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: Just 1.85mm thick

Similarly looking to its past, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new design harks back to a 1907 pocket watch predecessor named ‘Couteau’, or ‘knife’ in French, and is equally sleek and slim at just 1.85mm thick. Fitted with an in-house calibre 849 movement, the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch is available now until September 6th. 

Limited-edition Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum: The world in one watch

To say that a well-chosen watch is an apt reflection of its wearer is an understatement indeed. And for the well-heeled jetsetter, there’s no better chronographical companion than a world-time watch. For those in search of just such a timepiece, fear not, for German luxury label Montblanc has just unveiled the latest iteration of its beloved Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum.

Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum two versions

First launched in 2014, the Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum has built a reputation for being an elegant, intricate yet easily legible world-time device, one that allows its wearer to check the time in multiple locations with just one glance. For the 2020 version, Montblanc has pulled out all the stops to draw attention firmly on the dial. At its centre lies the North Pole, with the map of the Northern Hemisphere radiating outward from it, enveloped in gently undulating guillochéd waves. The waves are two-toned, each representing day or night in a whopping 24 time zones, as etched into the circumference of the dial.

Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum and other watches

The Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum, which perfectly blends beautiful form with unquestionable function, comes in two avatars – a stainless steel version with blue dial and Sfumato alligator leather straps, and a 500-piece limited-release rose gold iteration with brown dial and matching Sfumato alligator leather straps.

Loving Butterfly Automaton: A stunning new timepiece from Jaquet Droz

Ever since watchmaker Pierre Jaquet-Droz created his first automata mechanisms back in the late 18th century, these jaw-dropping, precision engineered creations have been a significant part of the illustrious history of the haute horology label he founded, Jaquet Droz. Now, 280 years after its foundation, the brand has unveiled the latest iteration of  one of these dazzling designs – the Loving Butterfly Automaton.

The Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton

First launched in 2017, the Loving Butterfly Automaton has seen several different avatars across the years in a variety of dials, including onyx, mother-of-pearl and aventurine. This latest model, though, plumbs the depths of Mother Earth’s history to create a dial lovingly crafted from Chinchilla Red, petrified wood dating back some 140-180 million years in far-eastern Australia.

The Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton 2

Inspired by an artwork titled Le Papillon Conduit Par l’Amour, which was sketched by The Draughtsman – an automata created by Henri-Louis Jaquet-Droz back in 1774 – this latest 43mm timepiece depicts a backdrop of a golden forest through which the chariot-riding Cherub and the Butterfly meander.

The Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton 3

Here, the haute horlogerie label’s expertise in automata comes literally to life, with the butterfly’s wings fluttering as if about to take flight, and the chariot wheels turning in unison, all combining to create the optical illusion of life on the dial, an effect further enhanced by the 3D-effect of the hand-engraved 18K red gold applique work.

The Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton 4

Just 28 pieces of this shining example of high-end watchmaking will be produced, and part of the proceeds of the Loving Butterfly Automaton will generously be donated to reforestation efforts across the world, and in Australia in particular, where wildfires have devastated the country. To find out more, visit this website.  

Pelagos LHD: Latest left-hand iteration of iconic Tudor watch unveiled

The Pelagos – Swiss watchmaker Tudor’s iconic diving watch – has for decades been among the most beloved ocean-going timepieces amongst discerning collectors and military outfits across the globe. In 2017, though, the brand sought to widen the appeal of this unique design even further by creating a dedicated ‘LHD’, or ‘left-hand drive’, avatar. 

Tudor Pelagos LHD

This thoughtful titanium-cased, 42mm addition to the Tudor back catalogue meant the watch could be worn on the right wrist, with left-handed folks easily able to access the winding system placed at the 9 o’clock position. 

Tudor Pelagos LHD dial

Now, the Tudor Pelagos LHD has been gifted yet another updated iteration, one that sees the signature left-handed features further enhanced by the addition of a new dial, replete with an alternatingly coloured day display, and the ‘Pelagos’ logo emblazoned in red at 6 o’clock. Under the hood, meanwhile, beats the in-house MT5612-LHD Manufacture movement, while its caseback proudly displays the unique production number of this lovely numbered series. 

Tudor Pelagos LHD with bracelets

Waterproof to 500m and fitted an automatic helium escape valve, the newest interpretation of the Pelagos LHD isn’t just a fitting homage to the innovative mechanical dive watches of bygone decades, but an apt acknowledgement of the unique requirements of watch collectors today. 

Fairer Secs: Making time for the ladies with these femme-focused timepieces

In the grand scheme of things, it wasn’t all that long ago that women’s watches were something an afterthought, largely uninspired designs with only the most basic of functions. They were, indeed, poor relations to the ever-more stunning, complex and precise pieces that constituted chap-oriented chronometers. This was, of course, because the majority of horological houses were solely preoccupied with churning out macho statement timepieces in the belief that men would always be the primary purchasers of high-end horological items.

Best of femme-focused timepieces

That, of course, has all changed over the course of the last 10 years, with the more elegant lady watch-loving collectors now accounting for a significant proportion of international timepiece sales. As a consequence, the watchmaking industry has risen to the challenge of reinventing the outdated design aesthetics and mechanics that once characterised the watches-for-women sector. Indeed, gone are the days when petite, nondescript wrist accessories were deemed to suffice. In their place is a new generation of intricate, chronologically advanced mechanisms that are more than a match for their male counterparts in terms of stature. Of these, we’d recommend six femme-focused timepieces for your particular perusal…

Femme-focused timepieces - Breguet Marine Dame 9518
Breguet Marine Dame 9518

First up is Breguet, with its all-new Marine Dame 9518 encapsulating a cool aquatic aesthetic. This is largely thanks to its beautifully hand-guillochéd wave-motif blue mother-of-pearl dial, fetchingly enhanced with a diamond-set bezel. Under the hood, the balance spring, escape wheel and lever have been ably crafted from ultra-lightweight silicon, with the self-winding Calibre 591A movement – visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback – extending to powering a date indicator. Water resistant to 50m, blue leather straps complete its memorably maritime appeal.

Femme-focused timepieces - IWC Portofino Automatic 34
IWC Portofino Automatic 34

Another unusual design comes courtesy of renowned Swiss watchmaker IWC in the form of its defiantly distinct Portofino Automatic 34. Boasting an 18K 5N gold case ringed with 92 diamonds, its dial is all entrancingly silver-plated and fetchingly embossed, bestowing upon it a glamorously glittering sheen. Powering this 34mm style icon is a Calibre 35100 movement, complete with a 42-hour power reserve. Four other fresh-out-of-the-workshop models of the Portofino 34 are also available, all with an easy quick strap change system, giving wearers the option of matching a different look to their particular mood.

Femme-focused timepieces - Zenith Elite Moonphase
Zenith Elite Moonphase

Looking more aloft for inspiration, meanwhile, is Swiss manufacturer Zenith’s Elite Moonphase. With its silvery white dial burnished with a sunray-patterned motif, it comes neatly punctuated with a small running seconds hand at the nine o’clock slot. Housed in a slimly-elegant rose gold case and ringed with a diamond-set bezel, the jewel in its particular crown is undoubtedly its blue six-o’clock-set moonphase indicator.

Femme-focused timepieces - Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto

In a departure from the usual circular case scenario, Jaeger-LeCoultre opted for a rectangular frame for its new Reverso One Duetto. Taking its inspiration from an earlier ’30s innovation, this red-hued hour-tracker was conceived with flexibility very much in mind. Its front face, restrained yet refined, is just about perfect for everyday wear, while its reverse side is all opulent elegance, led by a shimmering burgundy lacquered dial with the hour markers stretching outwards sunray-style.

Femme-focused timepieces - Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart
Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart

Similarly opting for a bold scarlet style is the delicate Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart, the latest offering from Jaquet Droz. Available in a limited edition of just 28, it measures a mere 25mm in diameter, but its diminutive dimensions are more than made up for by the intricacies of its design. Ringed with diamonds and set in a rose gold case, this alluring piece of rococo wrist enhancement is crafted in the brand’s iconic figure-eight form. Its lower half is all minimal grace, with its ruby heart dial featuring solely hour and minute hands. The upper segment, by contrast, is all whimsical flourish, while housing a ruby ball bearing that swivels freely in line with any movement of the wrist.

Femme-focused timepieces - Panthère de Cartier Watch
Panthère de Cartier Watch

In the coveted number six slot on our list of femme-focused timepieces comes one of the most outré lady’s timepiece currently on offer – Cartier’s all-new Panthère de Cartier Watch, a tribute to the marque’s much-feted twin expertise in fashioning fine jewellery and watchmaking. The watch proper – a 22mm wide yellow gold case with a gem-set bezel and diamond hour marker – comes mounted with the inevitable bejewelled panther, an iconic Cartier emblem since 1914. Arresting, attention-grabbing and unabashedly conspicuous, it stands as an apt homage to the indomitable spirit of womankind.

New day and night editions of MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT

Breaking with the more conventional femme-focused timepiece designs, horology marque Maximilian Busser and Friends, popularly known as MB&F, introduced its Legacy Machine FlyingT – its first every model for women – at the starting of 2019.

Proudly accoladed with the Prix de la Complication pour Dame award at the prestigious 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the watches are replete with intricately engineered details and dazzlingly avant-garde stylings.

Legacy Machine FlyingT

Then available in three versions – Black Lacquer, Pavée and Baguette –  the Swiss label has recently launched two more iterations of the Legacy Machine FlyingT – a black dial in a 18K red gold case that is reminiscent of night, and a light blue avatar housed in a platinum 950 case that is inspired by day.

Moreover, these guilloché dials,  crafted by the horology maison’s long-standing collaborator Kari Voutilainen, serve to further enhance the centrepiece of it’s design, its eponymous feature – the tourbillon.

Legacy Machine FlyingT

Adding to it, the small white-lacquered dial is placed at an inclination of 50° allowing only the user to see the time – thus improving the personal touch.

Limited to 18 pieces of each colour, these Legacy Machine FlyingT watches have a power reserve of 100 hours.

Snow Signs: Five decades of the Snowflakes timepieces by Tudor

One of the many factors that makes a brand stand out is the iconic component that is unique to its identity. For the Swiss horology brand Tudor, this exclusive element is undoubtedly the Snowflakes emblem – angular hand needles with square shaped hour calibres, which has been featured on countless timepieces across the decades.

Snowflakes

Originally introduced on two diving watches in 1969, this innovation allowed watch manufacturers to add luminescence to it – resulting in timepieces that are legible in any given lighting condition and fitting for the house’s tagline #BornToDare.

Snowflakes

In the decades to follow, Snowflakes became well-known not only among watch collectors, but amassed new followers among the divers of navy forces from all over the world including France, Canada, Italy, who all started sporting timepieces that featured this specification by Tudor.

Snowflakes

Initially a configuration that appeared only on diving watches, the high-end Swiss watchmaker later reinforced this unique element on its Black Bay and Pelagos models that were launched at the Baselworld 2012.

Fast forward to fifty years from its very first appearance, Snowflakes has continued to be one of Tudor’s defining features that is immediately recognised by watch aficionados globally.

Snowflakes

Givens: Must-give gifts for those special to you

Be it elegant fine jewellery pieces or style defining watches. the gifting choices for this Valentine’s Day are just endless. Here are more options curated by Gafencu to gift to your loved ones.

givens

From left:

Two Butterfly earrings in white and pink gold with diamonds and sapphires, Two Butterfly Between the Finger ring in white and yellow gold with diamonds and tsavorite, Two Butterfly Between the Finger ring in yellow gold with lapis lazuli and diamonds, Two Butterfly Between the Finger ring in white and yellow gold with diamonds and sapphires, all by Van Cleef & Arpels

Constellation Manhattan watch in Sedna™ by Omega

Perlée™ Couleurs transformable long necklace in yellow gold with turquoise, Pierre Arpels Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs watch in white gold case, Alhambra cufflinks in yellow gold with mother-of-pearl, all by Van Cleef & Arpels

Omega Flower bracelet in 18K white gold with diamonds and mother-of-pearl, Omega Flower bracelet in 18K white gold with turquoise, Omega Flower necklace in 18K red gold with carnelian cabochon, all by Omega

Guirlande de Cartier bag in calfskin by Cartier

givens

Clockwise from top left:

Leather bracelet with wolf-head closure in sterling silver by Montblanc

Sailing bracelet in brushed titanium by Omega

Time Walker bracelet by Montblanc

Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer watch in Sedna™ gold case by Omega

Onyx-bead bracelet with serpent detail in silver by Montblanc

Aqua key holder by Omega

Alpine Eagle large watch in Chopard lucent steel by Chopard

givens

 

Clockwise from top left:

Green Carpet evening bag in calfskin by Chopard

Chaumet Liens Evidence bangle in 18K pink gold with red lacquer by Chaumet

Happy Hearts Twist bangle in 18K rose gold with diamonds and red stone, Happy Hearts Twist ring in 18K rose gold and diamonds, both by Chopard

Extrait de Camélia hoop earrings in 18K pink gold and diamond by Chanel Fine Jewelry

Chaumet Bee My Love bracelets in 18K yellow and white gold with diamonds, both by Chaumet

Extrait de Camélia transformable ring and long necklace in 18K pink gold with diamonds, both by Chanel Fine Jewelry

Chaumet Jeux de Liens Harmony pendant necklace in 18K pink gold with diamonds, Chaumet Jeux de Liens Harmony pendant necklace in 18K pink gold and red lacquer, both by Chaumet

Happy Hearts watch in stainless steel case with diamonds by Chopard

givens

Clockwise from top left:

Lucky Animals cat clip in yellow gold with tiger eye and onyx

Cosmos Between the Finger ring and Cosmos ring in rose gold with mother-of-pearl and diamonds

Lucky Animals dog clip in yellow gold with mother-of-pearl and onyx

Lucky Animals hedgehog clip in yellow gold with mother-of pearl, tiger eye and onyx

Lucky Animals owl clip in yellow gold with mother-of-pearl and onyx, all by Van Cleef & Arpels

givens

Clockwise from top:

Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Chronograph watch by Montblanc

Historiques American 1921 pair watches in 18K 5N pink gold case by Vacheron Constantin

Chaumet Bee My Love rings in 18K yellow, pink and white gold with diamonds, all by Chaumet

Life Shared: Romance, relax, Rolex

Since Valentine’s Day is on its way, why not have some style inspirations, with a Rolex timepiece to accessorise, for the perfect date look.  

rolex

Look 1

On Her

Jacquard jacket and wide-leg pants, chiffon shirt with bow, big-loop earrings with rhinestones, all from Dolce & Gabbana’s Cruise collection Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 watch in oystersteel with Everose gold and diamonds by Rolex

On Him

Flannel jacket and slim fit pants, tartan shirt with jewelled collar pins, all by Givenchy Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 watch in yellow gold by Rolex

rolex

Look 2

On Her

Lace top, balloon high-waist pants, logo buckle belt with rhinestones, satin pumps with rhinestones, all from Dolce & Gabbana’s Cruise collection

On Him 

Silk printed wool sweater and pants, both from Dolce & Gabbana’s Cruise collection

rolex

Look 3

Embroidered chiffon dress with shorts, both by Shiatzy Chen Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 watch in oystersteel with Everose gold and diamonds by Rolex

rolex

Look 4

On Her

Short-sleeved jacket and lace blouse, both by Shiatzy Chen Leather pants and earrings, both from Givenchy’s Pre-Spring collection

On Him

Jacket, poplin shirt, leather shorts and leather collar strap, all by Prada

rolex

Look 5

On Her

Jacquard knitted jacket and white shirt, both by Etro Patent leather platform pumps from Prada’s Resort 2020 collection Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 watch in white gold and diamonds by Rolex

On Him

Patterned jacket, white shirt and pants, all from the BOSS x Meissen Holiday Capsule Collection Sea-Dweller watch in oystersteel and yellow gold by Rolex 

rolex

Look 6

Flannel double-breasted jacket and trousers, knitted turtleneck, all from Bottega Veneta’s Pre-Spring collection GMT-Master II watch in oystersteel by Rolex

rolex

Look 7

On Her

Silk patterned jacket and cropped pants, high-neck pullover, all from Prada’s Resort 2020 collection Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 in oystersteel with white gold and diamonds by Rolex 

On Him

Checked jacket and black shirt by Prada GMT-Master II watch in oystersteel by Rolex

rolex

Look 8

On Her

Silk ribbed knitted dress, padded Cassette bag and square-toed sandals, all from Bottega Veneta’s Pre-Spring collection

On Him

Checked suit with sweater, lace-up shoes, all from BOSS’ Pre-Spring collection

rolex

Look 9

On Her

Oversized jacquard sweater, leather pants, ID flap bag and earrings, all from Givenchy’s Pre-Spring collection Studded booties by Etro

On Him

Draped knot pullover and wool pants, both from Bottega Veneta’s Pre-Spring collection