Freedom to Rhone: From Hermitage to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, there’s plenty to savour in this red valley

The beautiful Rhône wine region in southern France has been making wine since the Roman times and its reputation has blossomed over recent years. Stretching down from Vienne to Avignon and carpeted with vineyards, this famous valley has two separate sub-regions with distinct viticultural traditions – the Northern Rhône and the Southern Rhône.

Northern Rhône and Southern Rhône are two completely different regions, insists Master of Wine Richard Hemming, speaking of one of his favourite winemaking areas. “The north is famous for making reds from Syrah, usually unblended, while the south blends more than a dozen different varieties to make a wide range of styles – including, most famously, Châteauneuf-du-Pape,” he says.

The two sub-regions are noted for having contrasting climatic conditions, thus affecting the types of grapes that will thrive.

Continental influences in the north can produce harsh winters and warm summers, while in the south the weather patterns are governed by a Mediterranean climate, with milder winters and hot summers.

Power play

Singapore-based Hemming, who serves as Head of Wine, Asia, for the 67 Pall Mall group of wine-loving private members’ clubs, is quite forthright in the appeal of the region’s wines. “The Rhône is all about power, but that doesn’t necessarily mean full-bodied,” he says. “Syrah from the north has intense black fruit but can be surprisingly perfumed too, with peppercorn and violet aromas.”

Comparing the northern wines with the tastes and aromas of its sister sub-region, he notes: “In the south, flavours are more like ripe red fruit, with sweet spices and often a herbal scent which is attributed to garrigue – the herbal scrub that grows naturally in and around the vineyards.”

The vast majority of wines are red, though both the north and south also produce whites, and he reveals that these are growing in popularity and prominence. “It’s this eclectic variation in styles that makes the Rhône such a rich region to discover,” he says.

Rhône reasons

According to Hemming, there is no one single overriding reason why the Rhône wine region produces such outstanding wines. “Like all great wine regions, it’s a combination of factors,” he says, citing its long winemaking tradition and evolving combination of variety, soil and climate.

Sense of mystery

He opines that some factors are simply unknowable, and pinpoints an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in the Northern Rhône by way of example. “There is a degree of mystery: why does Hermitage create the most complex Syrah in the world? There’s no single answer to this kind of question – and it’s that which keeps us coming back for more.”

Hemming says the “humble” Côtes du Rhône appellation produces the most important wine in the region in terms of sheer volume. “In both red and white – and even rosé – for my money this is the best-value classic wine you can find.” One of his favourite tipples from the valley is Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône red, which has been his long-standing “bargain weekday treat”.

World class

When considering the reputation of a wine, he cites Châteauneuf-du-Pape as the most famous red of the Southern Rhône, due to its global recognition. “However, Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, both from the Northern Rhône, while much smaller in size, are also world-renowned among wine lovers,” he adds.

“[Domaine Jean-Louis] Chave Hermitage represents the best-of-the-best for Syrah and is still good value if you compare it to top Burgundy and Bordeaux,” he enthuses. “For an undiscovered choice, I love the reds of Duché d’Uzès, a blend of Syrah and Grenache from the Southern Rhône.”

Super Tasmanians: Grapes from the island state have transformed Australian Chardonnay and gripped the wine world

Being situated at a far more southerly latitude has blessed Tasmania with a cooler climate and rendered it much distinct from other areas of viticulture in Australia. This gives the wines made in the island state unique characteristics compared to those across the country’s continental landmass. Popular grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

“In between Tasmania and Antarctica is nothing except for the Antarctic Ocean, so it’s an incredibly cool climate, which is fantastic for Chardonnay, in particular, but Pinot Noir and sparkling wine production as well,” says Steph Dutton, Penfolds’ Senior Winemaker.

Southern cool

Explaining its attraction for viticulturalists, she notes: “What people should really understand is that whilst Tasmania is cool and lies to south, it’s actually still quite dry, which are perfect conditions for growing grapes.”

She opines that the best examples of Australian Chardonnay herald from Tasmania. These super Tasmanian whites stand in contrast to the rest of Australia’s winemaking history with Chardonnay.

“Once upon a time, like 20 years ago, maybe more, our Chardonnays were incredibly ripe. They were buttery, often quite deep in colour and full of oak, and rarely would they age,” she says. “The big shift that happened in the Australian wine industry is we started to look at some cooler climate regions for that variety.”

Full pleasure

Dutton believes the cool climate of Tasmania and the dry conditions that lead to fairly safe growing seasons are a brilliant match for Chardonnay. “We get Chardonnay wines that are full of grip and structure, but also finesse and elegance,” she says. “[Chardonnays] should be intense; they should be full, but they should also show restraint and raciness, and Tasmania does that.”

Penfolds has vineyards in the prime wine regions of South Australia including Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley and Coonawarra. It also owns vineyards in northern and southern Tasmania and partners with growers in the state. More than 85% of grapes in some vintages of its flagship Yattarna Chardonnay are sourced from Tasmania. Though technically not labelled as hailing from Tasmania, the state “has played more and more a pivotal role in this Yattarna production”.

Citrus and cream

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay is one of her favourite wines and she quickly recalls its beautiful, mouthwatering combination of tastes. “I always see this lovely what I call citrus curd, like lemon meringue pies, lemon tarts and lime tarts, where you’ve got both citrus and creaminess all coming together at once,” she says. “We often talk about the nougat with Yattarna, and I see it as still being quite fresh, almost like a pistachio nougat that comes through for the wine.” She also highlights the excellence of the Tasmanian Chardonnays emanating from Pooley Wines in the Coal River Valley and Derwent Estate in the Derwent Valley, both located in southern Tasmania, not far from the capital, Hobart.

Tannic grip

“These are wines that I really admire for the phenolic grip, their structure, and by that I mean how the wine feels in terms of shape in the mouth,” she says. “You don’t want anything that is too buttery. You don’t want anything that is too soft or oily, but you also don’t want anything that’s too firm and tight.” She likes to talk about the bones of a wine – the skeleton, its structure, the framework that is holding it together. “Both of these wines have this amazing structure. Indeed, all three of my favourites share the common thread that they are built for age-ability,” she says.

Barossa Ambrosia: While the whites entice, red is the valley in Australia’s most revered wine region

Steeped in winemaking history, the Barossa Valley is home to some of Australia’s most renowned wineries and vineyards. Located northeast of Adelaide in South Australia, the storied region was planted by English and German settlers and boasts remarkable old vines dating back to the 1840s.

“Community is very much at the heart of this region, and it is the combination of community spirit, old-world vines and generational family grape growers that really makes it special for me,” says Con Simos, Research and Development Manager at Casella Family Brands, Australia’s largest family-owned wine company.

Winemaker’s paradise

He says: “It’s blessed with diverse terroir, including eight major types of soil, a range of altitudes and some of Australia’s oldest vines.” Embracing both warm-climate and cool-climate growing conditions and a diverse range of soils “makes it ideal for producing a wide variety of wines, from powerful, full-bodied reds to elegant white wines. The Barossa Valley is a winemaker’s paradise!”

Those rich, full-bodied wines are Shiraz, for which the region has garnered a prodigious reputation around the globe. “The age of its Shiraz vines adds a layer of heritage and depth, contributing to their distinctive character and longevity,” says Simos. He also notes that the Eden Valley sub-region produces phenomenal Riesling. Cooler temperatures in this elevated locale contribute to the crafting of vibrant, aromatic Rieslings with a unique expression of the terroir.

Sensational Shiraz

But it’s the world-class Shiraz that continue to grab the headlines. Peter Lehmann’s Stonewell, for instance, stands alongside Penfolds and Henschke as pillars of excellence in the Barossa Valley. “Red wines like the revered Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace highlight the depth, complexity and age-worthiness that have made Barossa wines legendary on the global stage,” says Simos.

First up of Simos’ favourite Barossa pours is one of the names under the Casella Family Brands umbrella, the 2017 Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz. “The secret to Stonewell Shiraz is the outstanding quality of what our founder, Peter Lehmann, refers to as ‘little black jewels’ – grapes drawn exclusively from low-yielding vineyards that produce sparse bunches with tiny, but intensely flavoured fruit,” he notes.

Cool class

Simos suggests the 2017 vintage will be remembered for its exceptional elegance and purity of fruit. “The palate is rich with fine, pure tannins – an abundance of blueberry, violet, earth and clove. Long and blue-fruited, it demonstrates a cool vintage in the Barossa while retaining stereotypical fruit ripeness and intensity.” He adds: “The oak is seamlessly integrated, almost imperceptible.”

Stonewell Shiraz is an ideal pairing for rich meat dishes like roast beef, he proffers, and is equally enjoyable alongside cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano, aged Cheddar and Grana Padano.

Another recommendation is 2018 Penfolds St Henri, which has seductive dark fruit and sweet plum aromas with dark chocolate and graphite. He hails its “inky and sinuous palate with plentiful ripe blackberry and mulberry, fine chalky tannins, superb mid-palate viscosity and underlying chinotto and roasted walnut notes”.

Rounding off his top three most-desired tipples is Henschke 2021 Tappa Pass. A resplendent dark crimson with violet hues in the glass, its fragrant nose opens to ripe plum, black cherry, blueberry, rose petal, anise and mace, with hints of black pepper, cedar, sage and charcuterie. “The palate is rich, plush and complex with blue fruit, mulberry, violets and plum, balanced by layers of fine velvety tannins delivering great depth and length,” he praises.

California Cleaning: Napa Valley has a depth of fruit beyond its star Cabernet Sauvignons

Napa Valley famously came to global prominence when its pours delivered outstanding results at the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976. Previously considered a winemaking backwater, this beautiful slice of California is now regarded as one of the world’s winemaking hotspots.

Robert Biale’s family has been involved in the area since the 1900s and he is still intimately connected with the wines produced here. “Napa Valley is a big name yet a very small place: it is 30 miles by five miles and sits one hour north of the Golden Gate Bridge with 47,000 planted acres and only 4% of California grapes,” he says.

The region benefits from cool nights and ocean breezes along with morning fog that combine to produce moderate temperatures. “Napa contains half of the world’s soil groups which allow multiple varieties to thrive,” adds Biale.

Zinfandel standouts

Bordeaux and Burgundy grapes are now most common, with Cabernet Sauvignon the king of the valley. This was not always the case, however. Prior to 1970, it was the heritage varieties of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah that populated Napa, having been planted from the mid-19th century.

Though Biale savours many Cabernets, like those from Spottswoode and Mayacamas, and Chardonnays such as Stony Hill and HdV, he much prefers the local Zinfandels because of their versatility for food pairing, their bright, fresh yet rich qualities, and their mouthwatering flavours.

Describing the tastes and aromas of his own Zinfandels from Robert Biale Vineyards, he highlights the layered notes of blackberry preserves, raspberry, violet, cocoa, anise and cherry wood on the nose, with flavours of plum, black cherry, baking spices, dried herbs and pomegranate. “They offer rich fruit, delicate acidity and a structure defined by well-ripened, fine-grained tannins,” he says.

Sunny highs

Richard Bischoff, a Certified Sake Professional, is also enthusiastic about Napa Valley wines. “For fans of Bordeaux wines, Napa is a place where fruit can reach its full potential, largely due to the sunny weather,” he says. Certainly, its dry Mediterranean climate and large diurnal shift from daytime highs to night-time lows allow the grapes to ripen slowly and keep their acidity.

Bischoff highlights the geographical dispersion of wines produced in the region, with the hotter northern Napa ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, and the cooler Los Carneros area better for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

“If you like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, then the Carneros region in southern Napa is a wonderful place for Burgundian-style wines, due to its proximity to the ocean breezes from the northern end of San Francisco Bay,” he stresses. “Napa wines tend to express the best combination of weather and terroir.”

Full fruit

For Bischoff, it is the fuller flavours of Napa wines compared to other regions that is the main characteristic of their superior quality. “Cabernets, to me, tend to really show flavours of blackberries, cherries and other dark fruits,” he says.

“The Sauvignon Blancs show aromas and flavours of tropical fruits, such as mango and pineapple, and are delicious on a hot summer day, while the Chardonnay can be full and rich, with aromas and flavours of lemon, butterscotch, toast and vanilla, especially if aged in French oak.”

He likes the elegance of the Biale Zinfandel, especially its iconic Black Chicken label. Another preferred choice is Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, which he praises as “just amazing”. He also believes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon from Clos du Val are fantastic expressions of the region.

Victoria Rises: Head northeast of stately Yarra Valley to discover many more amazing Australian wines

Situated in northeast Victoria, the Rutherglen wine region is steeped in winemaking tradition, with family wineries dating back 150 years. The wineries are located just a short drive from the small town of Rutherglen, whose great gastro pubs and wine bars now draw in visitors.

More than Muscat

Blessed with a stable warm and dry climate, the region is traditionally noted for its sweet fortified wine styles. Rutherglen winemaker Michael Murtagh says: “It’s home of the world’s greatest Muscats and big smooth reds,” he says. “These are deliciously rich fortified wines and lovely smooth red wines.” Bold, dark and tannic Durif is a regional speciality; Shiraz and similar varieties also thrive.

Murtagh co-owns Buller Wines, one of the Rutherglen producers “driving to welcome new, younger wine explorers with crunchy Pinot Grigio, Prosecco and Pinot Noir”. He adds: “We seek out the red clay loams for planting the vines as these provide good drainage and are deep and rich.”

Apart from the climate and soil, he notes two other influences that play a critical role in the Rutherglen success story. Firstly, there is ample water from the Murray River for supplementary irrigation in the dry summers to negate vine stress. The Great Dividing Range, a series of mountains, plateaus and rolling hills stretching more than 3,500 kilometres, also plays a part by “shedding cold air at night, giving us cool nights and mornings for the vines to recover and develop fruit flavours”.

Glory of the glen

One of his favourite wines for occasional indulgence is the Buller Wines 1968 Calliope Rare Frontignac. “The sheer depth and cleanness, along with the extraordinary rareness of our single vineyard and vintage Frontignac make it a once-in-a-lifetime experience,” he notes of this fortified wine.

Murtagh reveals that Muscats can be young or old depending on the winemaker’s plans. “The older Muscats are like Mum’s Christmas pudding, spice and raisins on the nose rich, while being vibrantly layered and textured on the plate – fantastic rare treats to be savoured,” he says. “The younger Muscats are fresher fruit styles showing the grape’s fruitiness and cleanness – enjoy with dessert or that last cup of coffee before bed.”

Wines of the King

Murtagh also highlights the King Valley, an hour’s drive south of Rutherglen. Its advantageous Great Dividing Range location supports two unique microclimates. “The valley is very fertile – high rainfall, rich valley-floor sedimentary soils, and amazing ancient volcanic lava steep ridges on each side,” he says.

The high-altitude ridges are particularly suitable for Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay table wine showing “fruit-forward peach and nashi pear with crunchy natural acidity”, as well as premium sparkling cuvées.

A benefit of being up on the ridge is constant air movement for disease control. The rising sun hits the canopy early, drying it out and stimulating vine photosynthesis. “The ancient lava flows are incredibly fertile but act as sponges releasing water easily and creating the right amount of irrigation for the vineyards,” he explains. The less fertile, slightly warmer east-facing slopes on the valley floor are the perfect environment for riper white wines and later ripening varieties like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.

The high life

Pinot Noir is Murtagh’s favourite cool-climate wine, the higher-elevation vineyards of the King Valley yield, in his view, truly great Pinot Noir.

“These wines are not deep red but lighter than traditional Aussie reds; spice and dark cherry dominate the nose, with some oak flavour for complexity. The palate is filled with sweet cherry fruit up front, and in the high-extreme vineyards they show a beautiful clean acidic finish.”

Exalted Malts: Whisky produced in the Scottish Highlands raises the bar for tipplers the world over

Among other attractions, Scotland is known throughout the world for its wonderful Scotch whisky. There has been something of a renaissance of the industry over recent years, and now there are about 140 distilleries producing Scotch, which can be malt whisky (made from malted barley) or grain whisky (unmalted barley, wheat, rye, maize), or a blend of the two. It must be aged in oak barrels for at least three years upon distillation.

The most prized of the types of Scotch whiskies is single malt, which as the name suggests is whisky produced wholly from malt in one distillery. Malted barley produces a richer, sweeter tipple than the spicier, more robust drink of its not-malted-grain cousin.

High quality

“The Highlands offer dramatically beautiful locations that yield distinctively bold and elegantly balanced whiskies,” says Keith Archer of Seeking Infinity Limited, a luxury assets firm specialising in art and whisky.

Archer believes the area is perfect for making whisky for a variety of factors. “Due to the Gulf Stream, the Highlands have a milder, damp marine climate compared to other Scottish regions. Longer summers are also better for barley production,” he points out.

Highland distilleries are often ideally located, taking advantage of the many coastal and inland locations. “Rivers like the Spey, Ness and Orchy provide soft, mineral-rich water from granite, sandstone and schist rock, which is an exceptional water source for whisky distilleries,” explains Archer.

Whisky galore

He highlights the diversity of the Highland whisky makers, from those producing lighter inland malts to others that he describes as “more robustly ocean-influenced coastal renditions”.

“The Glenmorangie distillery produces whisky that elicits delicate citrus flavours like orange and lemon with hints of vanilla and tropical fruit,” he says of the distillery founded in 1843 in Tain, in the far north of Scotland.

Fettercairn is located in the foothills of the Cairngorm mountain range and produces a single malt whisky that is “rich and creamy with butterscotch, honey, white chocolate and toasted nuts”.

At Glengoyne, a distillery not far from Glasgow, they use a slower distilling process than other brands, resulting in a supremely smooth single malt. Archer describes this tipple as “honeyed, floral and vanilla-laced with heather, apples and pears”.

To characterise the whisky produced at GlenDronach, founded in 1826 and one of Scotland’s oldest licenced distilleries, he turns to a Christmas theme. “Its flavours are rounded and full-bodied with raisins, prunes, Christmas cake and a Sherry-wine influence,” he says.

At the foot of the Central Highlands, in the heart of the scenic Perthshire countryside, is the distillery of Aberfeldy. According to Archer, its whisky is “light-bodied and floral with notes of honey, orange peel and creamy vanilla”.

Singular form

He is most partial to the following trio of Highland spirits: The Dalmore, Royal Brackla and Deanston.

Produced for over 180 years, the Dalmore is known for its depth and finesse that hails from hand-selected casks. “Dalmore has a complex structure with dates, prunes, maple and Sherry-soaked raisins plus hints of smoke,” says Archer. Royal Brackla – which has the honour of being one of the few distilleries granted a Royal warrant – produces whiskies of “delicate complexity with a light peat influence and notes of honey, citrus and orchard fruit like pears”. The single malt produced by Deanston also emits fruity tones, while appearing floral and subtly smoky on the palate as well “with pear drops, plums and hints of bonfire”.

Top Of The Pops: Uncorking a bottle of Champagne is a slice of the finest things in life

Champagne is synonymous with sparkling wine the world over, but the uniqueness of its precious provenance is stringently protected. Only sparkling wine made and bottled in the Champagne region in the traditional method can be called Champagne and no other bubbles come close as symbols of luxury and celebration.

Sara Checchi, Group Head Sommelier and Beverage Manager of restaurant group Maximal Concepts, has always been intrigued by Champagne due to its unique history, terroir and production techniques. The 50 years from 1670 to 1720 were a turning point for the region as this was when specific techniques for making sparkling wines were developed. Legendary Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Pérignon played a significant role in perfecting the méthod Champenoise, or the traditional method, in which wine undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle to produce carbon dioxide and thus the effervescence essential for its sparkling quality.

Aside from the fascinating history of the area, Checchi also adores the beauty of the landscape, its villages and “the breathtaking panoramic view over the vineyards”. The hillsides, houses and cellars of Champagne were added to the Unesco World Heritage list in 2015.

Climate impact

Checchi says Champagne benefits from a unique combination of both oceanic and continental climatic influences, being neither too cold in winter nor too hot in summer, in which grapevines used in making the region’s famed pour – predominately Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier – thrive.

The soil in the area, located 90 miles east of Paris, also contributes in an incisive way. “Deep in Champagne subsoil are layers of sedimentary rocks composed of chalk, marl and limestone. This type of subsoil allows for good drainage,” explains Checchi.

She does warn, however, that the continental influences can lead to freezing temperatures in winter, bringing frosts that can be devastating for the vineyards, and this occasional occurrence makes Champagne a challenging wine-growing area.

Salon salute

Asked for her Champagne of choice, Checchi unhesitatingly plumps for Salon. “It is definitely my favourite Champagne!” she exclaims. “It is produced from a single grape variety, namely Chardonnay, and comes from a single great terroir – Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru in the Côte des Blancs.”

This exceptional Champagne is only made in years when conditions are perfect. “Salon is produced just in the best vintages; little more than 35 vintages were produced in a whole century!” she says. “Doubtless this is not a bottle for daily consumption because of its price and the difficulty of its availability in the market.”

The thought of this rare pleasure makes every sip of “the experience memorable, every single time I get the chance to drink it”. She believes the wine has a magical, almost potent effect: “If eternal youth exists, Salon definitely knows its secret recipe!”

Despite Salon’s rarity, Checchi has savoured the tipple on enough occasions to be able to compare different vintages. “Even though I have had the honour of drinking many vintages from the maison, the one that is still in my heart is Salon 1997,” she reveals. She was extremely impressed by its youth when she tasted it in January 2020, yet “the nose is complex”.

Describing some of the tastes and aromas of her favourite vintage, she enthuses: “The 1997 is wonderfully refined, its minerality complemented by hints of white flowers. A salty note enhances aromas of bread crust, brioche with a little hint of green apple, and hazelnut.” Her appreciation becomes more infectious as she describes the mouthfeel, which “shows the very essence of Salon, dynamic and energetic. The mousse [sparkling-wine foam] caresses the tongue with the sensuality of silk, and there are rich and persistent flavours of ripe peach, honey and smoked tea.”

Great Wine of China: Chinese producers are winning over the world with their vibrant pours

China has produced wine from grapes for centuries, and in recent years the vast country has become one of the world’s largest consumers of wine. The fruits of each winemaking region have their own distinct characteristics, and many local wineries have developed strong ties with overseas viticulturalists.

Master of Wine Fongyee Walker, co-founder of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting and a specialist wine educator, can attest to the fact that many regions in China are crafting great wine.

Walker singles out three notable regions producing wines of character: Shandong for their gentle quality shaped by a maritime climate; Shangri- La in northwest Yunnan for the magnificent scenery and the freshness and vibrancy of its wines; and Xinjiang because of the vivacity of the culture “and the wonderful food that goes so well with the rich wines from that desert sun”.

Elegant Shandong

Winemaking in Shandong centres around Yantai on the northwest coast of the peninsula. “Shandong produces lovely wine,” says Walker. “The granite soils and the sea breezes coming off the bay allow so much of its coastal region to produce elegant wines.”

As a white-wine lover – “though not necessarily typical wines” – she is particularly fond of the gentle Chardonnays emanating from there, while the elegant Cabernet Francs with hints of leafiness also appeal. She notes: “It’s all about elegance, a refreshingness brought by that maritime acidity.”

Yunnan fruit

The mountain vineyards in Shangri-La reach as high as 3,000 metres, creating huge diurnal variation and giving the wines vibrant acidity and a pureness to their fruit. “That diurnal swing, those cold nights with very sunny days high up in the mountains, bring refreshing but ripe flavours,” she says.

Shangri-La reds excite the palate: “They produce really gorgeous Cabernets with a depth of fruit and a really refreshing mouthfeel,” she notes, adding: “Their Pinot Noir is a potential great star.” And speaking of her favourite whites: “Their Chardonnays are different from the Shandong style, and they offer a vibrancy of pure orchard fruit.”

Xinjiang riches

As for Xinjiang, Walker believes the desert landscape and crystal-clear sunshine have a profound effect on the quality of the wine produced, noting there is a warmth and beautiful roundness and richness in the wines there. “It’s hot, but this means that the red wines are full of fruit, and they have this wonderful, healthy fruitiness to them with beautiful tannins,” she says.

When China-based Walker travels to Xinjiang, she looks forward to pouring these rich reds, particularly the Syrah-Merlot blend. “It is so full of fruit and wonderful with the roast lamb of the area.” She is also partial to an Italian Riesling-style wine infused with green tea, which she describes as “a unique and favourite wine of mine. It has an aroma of jasmine flowers exploding.”

Perfect pairing

When planning a visit to Ningxia in north-central China, another key wine-growing area, she thinks of their beautiful Marselan grapes and how well these wines go with roasted Tan Yang lamb. The local Tan species of lamb is, she opines, “one of the most delicious lambs of the world. What a perfect match!”

Grape achievements

Walker was on the distinguished panel of judges including three Masters of Wine and three Master Sommeliers at the inaugural Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards held in Macau last month. Significantly, the event gives valuable feedback to those who don’t win trophies. “It provides a roadmap for producers all across China with different styles of wine – how to go forward, how to improve and bring their wine to new levels of quality,” she says.

Winners revealed!

Following the rigorous judging process, Fei Tswei Marselan Reserve 2021 was honoured with the coveted Best Wine of China Trophy. Its exceptional quality also earned it the titles of Best Red Wine, Best Marselan and Best of Ningxia. Xige Estate N28 Chardonnay 2021 won two trophies, including Best White Wine and Best Value Wine, while Domaine Franco Chinois Petit Manseng 2018 received the Best Sweet Wine, Best Petit Manseng and Best of North China titles.

Chinese Wine Month

Wynn is set to host ‘Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Month’ promotion in May, a celebration of Chinese wine excellence with a symphony of global gastronomy. Throughout the month, guests can experience specially curated wine pairing tasting menus at Wynn’s prestigious dining venues, including Chef Tam’s Seasons, Lakeview Palace, SW Steakhouse and Mizumi at Wynn Palace as well as Golden Flower, Wing Lei, Lakeside Trattoria and Mizumi at Wynn Macau.

For a casual alternative, visitors can also participate in tasting flights featuring the prizewinning wines at Wynn’s various bars, including Palace Reserve Club, Cinnebar, Bar Cristal and Wing Lei Bar.

Super Sicilian: Springing from vineyards aplenty, Sicily’s splendid indigenous grapes are setting the wine world alight

The island of Sicily has become one of the most important wine-growing regions of Italy. It is the country’s largest in terms of planting with some 98,000 hectares under vine. A total of 4.8 million inhabitants make it the most populous island in the Mediterranean Sea.

It is known throughout the world as the home of Mount Etna, one of Europe’s most active volcanoes – whose soils happen to be ideal for the growth of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio (both red) and Carricante (white) grapes. Indeed, Sicily’s indigenous grape varieties are now widely appreciated by connoisseurs, who decades ago would only look to the island for Marsala, its famous fortified wine.

Island of extremes

“If you had to sum up Sicily in just a few words, it’s an island of extremes,” says Italian wine specialist Keti Mazzi, founder of Certa Wine Club. “Rocky volcanic coastlines give way to white sandy beaches. Crumbling architectural treasures of the ancient world sit next to some of the most theatrical and perfectly preserved paintings of the Baroque. It’s a cliché, but in Sicily, there’s truly something for everyone.”

Already a top-tier wine region in Italy, a country which itself is the largest producer of wine in the world, Sicily is poised for a new phase of expansion, believes Mazzi, as wine enthusiasts look for new territories and unexpected flavours.

Volcanic boost

Its fertile soil is primarily the result of an ongoing series of volcanic eruptions, and this, coupled with a pleasant climate, means it is perfect for making wine. Mazzi notes: “A true microcosm of Italy, Sicily can be described as a ‘viticultural continent’. Sicily is a continent for wine!”

Today, Sicily is primarily recognised for its Nero d’Avola and Grillo grapes, two local red and white varietals respectively that thrive across the diverse soils and growing conditions of the island.

Creamy white

Grillo had been used exclusively to produce Marsala in the past – in northwestern Sicily, an area granted Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status – but now stars in some of Sicily’s most recognisable labels. “It delivers a refreshing, fragrant white wine with aromas of tropical fruit and a rich, creamy structure,” says Mazzi.

She says the Nero d’Avola grape variety is similar in style to Syrah: “It is Sicily’s most prolific red grape and produces a medium-bodied elegant wine with red fruit flavours, notes of pepper and a nice acidity.” Other common grape varieties on the island include Catarratto, Inzolia (both white) and Frappato (red).

Red beauty

Having spent several wonderful years in Sicily, the island is close to Mazzi’s heart and she is fond of many of its wines. Her ultimate tipple from the region, though, is Rosso del Conte, a flagship red from eighth-generation producer Conti Tasca d’Almerita in the central highlands. Its grapes originate from San Lucio, the first ‘grande vigna’ (large vineyard) created on the Tenuta Regaleali estate in 1959.

Mazzi loves the aromas emanating from this Sicilian beauty, indicating it retains a certain subtleness to its offering. She says: “On the aromatic level, Rosso del Conte never exaggerates in overripe notes while guaranteeing full phenolic ripeness.”

She believes the wine is a faithful expression of its terroir, recalling the high hills in the heart of Sicily, while a special signature appeal is that two grape varieties, Perricone and Nero d’Avola – which have a similar vegetative root – coexist.

Mazzi admires how the wine develops over time. “It is exuberant, vibrant and energetic in its youth, and with ageing develops a velvety touch without losing structure and flavour,” she says.

Hawke’s High: The lowland and coastal hills of New Zealand’s second largest wine region offer Bordeaux-style pleasures

Located on the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island, Hawke’s Bay has garnered a world-class reputation for the quality of its wines.

Famed for its fruity, earthy reds and full- bodied Chardonnays, Hawke’s Bay is one of New Zealand’s oldest wine-producing regions and its second-largest.

Viticulture vitality

“Summers are typically dry and warm and are followed by long autumns and relatively mild winters. This results in lengthy and consistent growing seasons, which are vital to viticultural excellence,” says Daniel Cheung, a freelance consultant in the food & beverage industry.

This benign weather system underscored by numerous geologically-young soil types enriched by centuries of volcanic activity contributes to one of the wine world’s most versatile areas. “The region makes an impressive array of wines, most notably Rhône- and Bordeaux-style reds that have good ageing potential,” notes Cheung.

Top draws

Cheung finds Hawke’s Bay particularly intriguing as it offers something different aside from the “star export of crisp, flinty Sauvignon Blanc”.

Powerful, aromatic expressions of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are particularly highly regarded. “Equally remarkable are full-bodied and robust Chardonnays that have lots of ageing potential, says Cheung.”

Cheung has become fascinated by how Hawke’s Bay’s vignerons make the most out of a region underpinned by a coastal influence, while also dealing with the complex mesoclimates of a varied topography.

“They’ve always had a focus on quality and diversity, along with a rich history of winemaking innovations. Producers there know the importance of employing sustainable viticultural practices,” he says, also noting the region’s world-class aspirations.

Great Gravels

He believes the wines have a unique spirit to them that is uplifting. “A perfect example would be the incredible tale of the subregion known as Gimblett Gravels – 600 hectares in size, with a soil structure that is stony, with a distinctive minerality and a fine, dusty character,” he says.

“Though the area wasn’t used for growing vines until the early 1990s – it was saved by the rejection of a mining application – it has since quickly risen to prominence for producing rich yet elegantly structured red wines that rank among the finest in the world.”

Superior Syrah

Cheung has a particular fondness for two wines emanating from the region. First up is Le Sol 2019 from Craggy Range, which was awarded New Zealand’s Winery of the Year 2023 by the prestigious The Real Review. “This is a top- notch 100% Syrah that’s now an icon wine of the Gimblett Gravels subregion,” he says.

Describing the tastes and aromas of one of his favourite tipples, he identifies its “dark, fruity nose with a good amount of focus and peppery warmth. Rounded and generous on the palate with a great long finish, this is a seductive Syrah.”

Crisp Chardonnay

Produced by the pioneering Brajkovich family, Kumeu River’s Rays Road Chardonnay 2020 is another Hawke’s Bay favourite of Cheung. He enthuses of this cellar-worthy wine: “Crisp and mineral-forward, this single vineyard Chardonnay is crafted in a Burgundian style. The citrusy bouquet complements its refined linear character, all of which culminate in a reverberant finish.”