Ginjoism: Why Japan’s beloved sake is riding high on a wave of popular demand

For those who enjoy the finer side of drinking, you’d be forgiven for finding the origins of sake to be somewhat unsavoury and unappetising. Indeed, some 2,000 years ago, when sake – or rather kuchikami-zake, a type of rice wine – was discovered in Japan, the earliest recorded method of fermentation involved no machinery or distillation. Instead, those with strong enough jaws and teeth were assigned to masticate whole grains of rice. This mouth-chewed substance was then be spat into a vat, where enzymes in the human saliva would mix with natural yeast to form a rudimentary alcoholic spirit.

But sake has come a long way from such crude roots to become not only Japan’s most beloved bevvy but also one of its most sought-after exports. Although fewer than 2,000 sake breweries exist in Japan at present, the drink has steadily grown in popularity overseas, with distilleries opening in the Americas, China, Southeast Asia and Australia. According to Japanese government records, sake exports have increased by more than 150 percent in the last ten years, with the US, Hong Kong and South Korea being its most enthusiastic importers.

So what has led to the meteoric spike of interest in this particular variety of rice wine? Well, it very much boils down to its unique sweet-yet-umami flavour, one that’s markedly different from such mainstream tipples as whisky or beer. Another factor behind its growing popularity is its expansive rice-based flavour spectrum, which allows for almost unrivalled food-pairing possibilities. But while all sakes have something unique to offer, there’s a marked range of quality, flavours and, of course, price points throughout.

While the method of fermenting sake is somewhat similar to beer – polishing, washing, steaming and cooling rice before adding koji, a mould culture – the actual quality of the liquor is determined by how much the rice grains have been polished. So a sake made from highly polished grains is of higher quality and therefore commands a steeper price.

This premium sake is categorised as Ginjo. Government regulations in Japan strictly define the meaning of this classification. To qualify as a Ginjo (premium) sake, the drink must be made from rice with at least 40 percent of its outer kernel milled away. For Daiginjo (super-premium sake), it must be 50 percent or higher. Here’s a lowdown on all the different classifications…

Ginjo: Premium fragrant variety of sake with a minimum 40-percent polishing ratio, with a little bit of distilled alcohol added to it. Ginjos are characterised by a sweet, fruity flavour and are best served chilled. Our recommendation: Azumaichi Yamadanishiki Ginjo

Daiginjo: Super-premium sake that must be made with grains with a minimum 50-percent polishing ratio. The flavours are sometimes enhanced the addition of distilled alcohol heighten its floral, fruity flavours further. Our recommendation: Fukuju Chotokusen Daiginjo

Honjozo: Super-premium sake with at least 70 percent of the rice kernels milled away. It doesn’t have a high alcohol content and boasts a smooth taste. Honjozos can be served either chilled or warm, but must not be heated to more than 50˚C. Our recommendation: Takizawa Tokujo

Junmai: Junmais don’t have any added alcohol, so it’s thought to be a pure rice wine with a more umami flavour. If a daiginjo or a ginjo sake has junmai mentioned in its name, it means that no extra alcohol has been added in it. Our recommendation: Raifuku Junmai Daiginjo Fantastic 7

All of our recommended sakes can be found at Jebsen Fine Wines.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Whisky expert Charles Maclean on the one whisky he’d take to a deserted island

For true-blue connoisseurs of the whisky world, Charles MacLean needs no introduction. However, for those who are less au fait with the bevvy, the Scotsman is the considered to be one of the most authoritative voices on whisky, especially the Scotch varietals, having published 17 books to date on the subject and having hosted numerous tastings and talks throughout the world. His recent marathon tour to China, of which Hong Kong was his last port of call, was a very special one though. He was here courtesy of the world’s leading blended whisky expert, Johnnie Walker Blue Label, ahead of the launch of two very special, very rare bottles to be unveiled next year. We sat down with him to talk about all things whisky. Catch some snippets of our interview in the video below. For the full interview, please scroll down.

You have famously said that you would prefer a blended whisky to a single malt when you are unwinding. Any reasons for this preference?

My work has largely to do with single malt whiskies. So whenever I am served malt whisky, I immediately go into work mode. But when I just want to drink and enjoy, which is everyday after 6 o’clock in the evening, I reach for a blended Scotch. If I could choose only one whisky on a desert island, that’d be blended Scotch, specifically a Johnnie Walker blended whisky.

Which of the offerings from Johnnie Walker is your most favourite?

That would be Johnnie Walker Black Label. Of course, I like drinking the Johnnie Walker Blue Label as well, it’s incredibly smooth, but I feel that the Black Label has more bite to it. If somebody else is paying, then I’d always order a Johnnie Walker Black Label.

With the demand for whiskies reaching astronomical levels, especially in auctions, what should we keep in mind while investing in whiskies?

It depends on who is buying, whether they’re consumers or collectors or investors. If you’re looking to buy to consume, go for any whisky distilled in the ’60s, ’70s and even ’80s. They’re good value for money and taste great. Collectors typically go for rarity. So they would buy limited editions, original bottlings. I would advise collectors to for whiskies that are not as collectable now but those that have more potential. I would avoid Dalmore, Macallan, Bowmore, and instead look for interesting labels, original bottlings, etc. Investors, meanwhile, can buy whiskies at any price point, and they drive the price up. Since the financial crisis, people are looking at alternative investments and whisky is currently the most popular alternative investment. Some rich Asians are, meanwhile, also investing in casks.

Tell us more about the two Johnnie Walker special releases that are being unveiled next year…

The first one is a super-exclusive limited-edition expression, an incredibly rich 40-year-old whisky that connoisseurs are sure to fall in love with.

The other exquisite offering is The John Walker Last Cask, which will be presented with a bespoke design by Hand Engraver of Glass to Her Majesty the Queen, Philip Lawson Johnston. Every hand-drawn image decorating the bottles is as beautiful as it is unique. These whiskies are hand-selected from just nine distilleries that were in existence during Johnnie Walker founder John Walker’s lifetime (1805-1857). According to Johnnie Walker Master Blender Jim Beveridge, this special cask, essential to balancing the flavours of The John Walker, will soon no longer bring the balance and depth of character that is so important for this elegant whisky. He has therefore decided to withdraw it from use, meaning only one final cask of The John Walker will ever be released..

Thank you.

Interview by Suchetana Mukhopadhyay, video by Lai Ti Yeung

Sippin’ on Sustainability: John Anthony launches new zero-waste cocktails

While many establishments within the food and beverage sector are just now finding themselves adopting more environmentally friendly ethos, modern Cantonese restaurant John Anthony has been eco-driven from its very start. Giving a whole new meaning to green-thumbs, Executive Chef Saito Chau isn’t the only wiz when it comes to whipping up sustainable veggie dishes, as John Anthony’s mixology team composed of Katelyn Ix and Suraj Gurang, are also ensuring that the bar menu is a thing of zero-waste too.

john anthony zero-waste cocktails — Bay of Bengal

Drawing inspiration from the ancient Silk Road, John Anthony has crafted four house-infused Gin & Tonics and nine new Signature zero-waste cocktails all made from sustainable and locally foraged ingredients. Being home to one of Hong Kong’s largest collections of gin – over 400 and counting – bar goers can gaze aweingly at the four 12-litre transparent tubes that sit at the centre of the restaurants bar, which contain house-infused gins of shiso, strawberry, sun dried tomato and rhubarb.

Among those worthy of trying are the Bay of Bengal which has been infused with coconut washed gin, aveze, cardomom bitters. sandalwood tincture, spiced mango, lemon and Indian tonic – and is garnished with black pepper and a chickpea cracker. Clearly not your average drink, the cocktail’s taste is just a mighty as its ingredients list, as it perfectly balances its fruity flavours with the woody and floral notes from the sandalwood and spiced mango.

Also making our list of favourites – Uprooted – made with the combination of pandan vodka, tea-smoked ginger, lime, passion fruit honey and kaffrir lime tincture. The tea-smoked ginger proves to be the standout ingredient and it’s to no wonder as the plant has long been a flavour beloved for both its medicinal and culinary contributions in both Chinese and Indian culture. The pandan vodka also proved to offer something quite unique, a sure favourite for any adult with a still lingering sweet tooth.

John Anthony Hong Kong, 1 Sunning Rd, Causeway Bay, (852) 2898 3788

Chile Reception: How Chilean wines finally gained worldwide recognition

While the 16th-century annexation of Chile by the Spanish Conquistadors was a period characterised by savage brutality and germ-born genocide, it was rather a good time to be an aspirant winemaker. After all, it was these sundry cutthroats and the barely better-behaved missionaries who established the country’s first vineyards in the mid-1500s, laying the foundation for today’s many high-end Chilean wines.

Any cursory topographical travail of the Andean landscape – the mountainous region that extends across much of western Latin America – will show, however, that the local terroir seems all but inimical to viticulture. Appearances, of course, can be deceptive, and the region’s unique geography actually featured a combination of soil, sunlight, temperature and humidity that allowed grapes to be nurtured to a world-class standard. On top of that, it actually transpired, several centuries later, that the area’s geographic advantages saw it immune to phylloxera, the vineyard blight that brought the global wine industry to its knees at the close of the 19th century.

It is this pestilential insect, though, that the Chilean wine industry owes a huge debt to. Had it not wreaked havoc across the vineyards of Europe, the resultantly unemployed winemakers would never have brought their knowledge, techniques and varietals to transform Chile’s fledgling winemaking industry.

Despite being gifted such talents, political instability and a lack of domestic demand meant it was another 100 years before the industry started to fulfil its potential. From the ’80s on, though, buoyed by robust overseas investment and led by an innovative new generation of wine producers, Chile has inexorably risen to become the world’s sixth-largest wine-producing nation. In 2018, its output topped 12.9 million hectolitres, a massive 35.9 percent year-on-year rise.

The fact that there is demand for such a huge volume is testament enough to the global appetite for Chilean wines. Despite this, admission into the upper echelons of the high-end international wine market – long dominated by the likes of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Tuscany – long eluded Chilean vintners.

In part, this was down to the fact that, until 30 years ago, Chilean wine was a wholly domestic phenomenon, with few bottles ever leaving its shores. Arguably a bigger problem, though, was the reluctance of many of the leading experts in the field to ever visit this most remote of wine-producing nations.

Fortunately, one particular vineyard – Seña – took it upon itself to change all that. Launched in 1995 as a partnership between Robert Mondavi, a famed Californian wine guru, and Eduardo Chadwick, a member of a well-established winery dynasty, it built its reputation on the quality of its Bordeaux-style Cabernet Sauvignons, its Carmeneres (Chile’s most iconic grape varietal) and its Merlots.

In a bid to boost the profile of high-end Chilean wines in general and Seña in particular, Chadwick resolved to bring their undoubted quality to the attention of the world wine community in a way it would never forget. Accordingly, in January 2004, he staged an exclusive blind tasting event, which saw 36 of Europe’s foremost wine experts faced with samples of 16 different anonymised wines. While half of them were prime examples of such old-world favourites as Lafite, Latour and Margaux, the remainder represented the very best on offer from Chile.

Berlin blind tasting — Berlin Blind Tasting, January 2004

In an outcome that surely exceeded Chadwick’s most optimistic expectations, the two highest rated wines were both from Chile, with the Viñedo Chadwick 2000 taking the number one slot and the Seña 2001 not far behind it. All told, six of the 10 top choices were Chilean.

This blind-tasting event was restaged in 19 different locations over the next eight years, with each iteration featuring a new selection of wines. In every instance, Chilean wines dominated the top slots. As a result, these vinicultural underdogs have been grudgingly admitted to the premier league of wine-producing nations, with their finest offerings now a staple on the carefully-curated wine lists of many Michelin-starred restaurants.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Seña

50-year-old Yamazaki auctions for nearly HK$3.4 million

A year ago this very month, an extremely rare first-edition Yamazaki 50-year-old sold at auction for nearly HK$2.7 million, making it the most expensive single bottle of Japanese whisky ever sold. Now that record has been broken. In some consolation to the original record holder, though, it has merely been taken over by another bottle from the same batch of 2005 Yamazaki 50-year-olds, with the winning bid this time fetching some HK$3.4 million.

As you might inevitably assume, there is something truly special about this particular edition of the renowned Japanese spirit, with a number of factors accounting for its unprecedented valuation. For one thing, as it was placed in mizunara (Japanese oak) casks to mature way back in 1955, it is the oldest extant Yamazaki vintage. For another, Suntory, the distiller behind this much-sought-after spirit, produced only 50 bottles of this whisky when it was released 14 years ago.

Adding to its quality and rarity, it has been made wholly from Japanese barley and fermented using voltaic water sourced from below the bamboo forest neighbouring the Yamazaki distillery. As to this latest record, is it set to endure? Well, with 48 bottles still lurking out there, it would be rash to assume we’ve seen the last of this particular whisky…

How gin conquered half the world and became a cocktail essential

Forget any notion you had that Britain is a nation of tea addicts. As any true anglophile will tell you, it’s actually gin that flows in the veins of every true English man and woman. The Brits first succumbed to the allure of gin during the Thirty Years’ War, a prolonged 17th-century skirmish where they witnessed their Dutch allies knocking back Jenever (a rudimentary gin) to calm their pre-battle nerves – a practice that gave the world the term ‘Dutch courage’. It also gave the English a taste for gin, with their habitual indulgence in the spirit something they took back home with them.

William Hogarth’s painting Beer Street and Gin Lane depicted the evil effects of gin on the womenfolk of London in 18th century

It has to be said, the pairing of the legendarily thirsty Brits with this juniper berry-flavoured spirit has not always been a happy one. In the mid-18th century, for instance, the drink was warily referred to as ‘mother’s ruin’, a testament to its detrimental effect on the ladyfolk of the day. Later, when it was heavily taxed in a bid to deter overindulgence, London’s libation lovers rose up in protest. None of these delinquent incidents, however, diminished the nation’s love for its adopted tipple and, as the British Empire expanded across the globe, gin arrived in every annexed territory.

Then, as now, the most popular way to enjoy gin was by mixing it with tonic, a combination supposedly potent enough to ward off malaria, even in the depths of the Indian subcontinent. Indeed, it is not too much of a stretch to say that gin and tonic fuelled the growth of the British Empire. Acknowledging this, Winston Churchill, the legendary prime minister who steered the UK through WWII, was once heard to say: “Gin and tonic has saved more Englishmen’s lives and minds than all the doctors in the British Empire.”

Gin’s neutral flavours make it such a cocktail essential

Today, while the empire is long gone, the gin and tonic continues to reign supreme. No longer a medicinal tipple sipped throughout tropical postings, it is now a staple at bars and clubs from the swankiest to the mankiest, from London to Los Angeles, and at every stop in between. Although briefly eclipsed by vodka in the ’70s and ’80s, it has long regained its place at the top of the tippling table, with the introduction of trendy artisanal gins and its adoption as a cocktail essential seeing generation after generation enamoured by its chilled-out charm.

In many ways, it is its chameleon-like qualities that have ensured its lasting success. Its mild flavours, for instance, make it a welcome addition to just about any cocktail, with only a few millilitres of gin enough to give any libation an added zing. What’s more, gin’s largely neutral flavour can easily be transformed by the judicious addition of botanical infusions. While orange, lavender and vanilla pods remain the most popular options, more and more bars are coming up with their own bespoke infusions.

Stable Bar at House 1881 offers customised gin infusions to guests

One local quaffery looking to take a lead on this particular front is the TST-based Stable Bar. Set within the venerable precincts of House 1881, it divides its choice of infusions into fruity, floral, spicy and refreshing, with the more exotic options on offer being Sichuan pepper, chamomile, caramel and lemongrass.

Assistant Manager Tony Ng, however, warns against adding too many flavours, saying: “We recommend a maximum of three to four botanicals per drink, otherwise it can be a real assault on the senses.” Depending on your choice of herbs, the colour of your drink is also likely to be transformed, with lavender adding a purple hue and caramel occasioning a mellow yellow tone. First-timers, however, are best advised to stick to a flavourful and foolproof combination of lime, cucumber and orange, while those who want to be more experimental can ginsplice away to their heart’s content.

Grapefruit and Ginger-Infused Gin

Ingredients

1 red grapefruit
2 one-inch slices of ginger
15g sugar
350ml gin

Instructions

Peel the zest off the grapefruit. Halve the grapefruit and squeeze out its juice
Place the peel, juice, ginger and sugar in an airtight jar. Pour the gin into the jar and seal it
Store in a cool, dark place for a week or two, gently swirling the jar every couple of days to dissolve the sugar
Strain the gin into a jug through a sieve lined with muslin. Serve with zest of grapefruit and ice

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Drink to the future: Toast to Louis XIII new coffret with smart decanter

LOUIS XIII New Coffret with Smart Decanter revealed in time for the gifting season of the Mid-Autumn Festival

Luxury cognac brand LOUIS XIII is known for embracing the rich history of the maison. But the cognac house is equally conversant in new technology as it is in nostalgia. Indeed, with the just launched LOUIS XIII New Coffret with Smart Decanter, the iconic French luxury brand is all set to usher in the future of cognac tasting.

The coffret flaunts a contemporary design while retaining its iconic red colour. It also offers a new opening experience that brings to mind the moment in a refined environment when the cloche is lifted to reveal the delights within. The coffret comes complete with an integrated mirror display to showcase the decanter in wine stores, restaurants, palaces, hotels and at home, and a dedicated book to discover more about LOUIS XIII. The new coffret opening ritual is inspired by the gastronomic tradition of “la cloche”, the lifting of the bell to reveal a masterpiece, thus implementing a new opening ritual for LOUIS XIII.

The Smart Decanter itself, meanwhile, comes equipped with a smart NFC chip integrated in the cork stopper, which opens up an exclusive world of privileges to customers, with a mere touch on their NFC-enabled smartphones. Each decanter will directly connect clients to the LOUIS XIII Society, a private club where members can enjoy exclusive content, unique experiences and personalised services.

This private club offers bespoke services such as customised decanter engraving, pre-releases of limited editions, contact with a LOUIS XIII Personal Advisor for private tastings and an invitation to connect with like-minded LOUIS XIII cognac connoisseurs registered all over the world. The Smart Decanter also brings added services to clients allowing them to customise gifting messages that will appear when recipients scan their decanter. It’s safe to say that with the all-new LOUIS XIII New Coffret with Smart Decanter, we’ll not just be thinking – but also drinking – a century ahead!

Get the exclusive gift for your special someone for the Mid-Autumn Festival. Please contact Calvin Chen via calvin.chen@louisxiii-cognac.com

Gourmet Gifts from Johnnie Walker Blue Label and Michelin-star Forum Restaurant

As one of the most auspicious events in the Chinese lunar year, the Mid-Autumn Festival is the time for gift-giving and bonding with loved ones. And what better gift can there be this season than a bottle of the ever-luxurious Johnnie Walker Blue Label!

However, your Mid-Autumn Festival celebrations may just become even more joyous by the collaboration between blended Scotch whisky-maker Johnnie Walker and Michelin-star-studded Forum Restaurant which has resulted in a series of limited-edition gift sets.

These Mid-Autumn Festival Gift Sets can be said to be the last word in luxury. The vouchers for these will be available from 2 August and the gift set collection will start from 20 August from the restaurant itself. Available in three options – Spanish Iberico Ham Mooncake and Johnnie Walker Blue Label Whisky (200ml); Spanish Iberico Ham Mooncake, Abalone in Supreme Sauce and Johnnie Walker Blue Label Whisky (750ml); and Spanish Iberico Ham Mooncake, Abalone in Supreme Sauce and Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost & Rare Port Ellen Edition (750ml) – these exclusive, super-deluxe and yet traditional gifts are sure to strengthen the bond of love between you and your family.

The Mid-Autumn Festival Gift Sets will be available exclusively at Forum Restaurant, and gifting vouchers can be purchased from 2 August 2019, with the gift set collection starting from 20 August 2019.

Opulence revealed at Rémy Martin and Yan Kefu’s art pairing at Hong Kong

Luxury cognac brand Rémy Martin opened up a new way of cognac tasting by pairing it with an exclusive art appreciation session in Hong Kong. The art in question was Taiwanese artist Yan Kefu’s latest piece ‘Rock’N Time 8’ – nine panels of oil-on-canvas paintings.

Stretching over 10m horizontally, the series of panels depict an endless stretch of limestone rocks colliding with each other. They seem as if in motion, ready to collapse at any moment, with only their mutual attractions and tensions holding them in place.

Artist Yan Kefu talking to art connoisseurs in front of his painting

While at a deeper layer, the rocks may depict human interactions in the modern society, in terms of aesthetics alone, they bear a striking resemblance to the limestone rocks of the Cognac region – the locale where Rémy Martin cognac is grown.

So the house of Rémy Martin and the artist joined hands for an exhibition in the exhibition in the Cognac region itself; set against the limestone rocks, the connections between the ‘Rock’N Time 8’ paintings and the Cognac region are obvious – evoking the beauty of nature, texture and the wine-making process.

For a limited time only, Hongkongers were privy to the beauty of Rémy Martin and Yan Kefu’s art pairings at Art Statements gallery in Wong Chuk Hang. Check out our footage from the event:

Drinks Whiz: Create your own cocktails with these four delicious recipes

As we discussed in a recent article, cocktails – one of the most versatile alcoholic tipples, with hundreds upon hundreds of variations in existence – can widely be divided into two separate categories, those of a headier spirit-forward variety and those lighter fruit-forward blends. If you’re keen to transform yourself into a DIY drinks whiz, why not check out these four delicious recipes – both classical and contemporary iterations – and create your own cocktails in the comforts of your own home?

OLD-FASHIONED

Undoubtedly one of the most classic spirit-forward cocktails, this bourbon-based beverage is perfect for fans of smoky whisky flavours.

Ingredients

2oz of Rebel Yell bourbon
1 tsp of brown sugar
3 dashes of Angostura bitters
Orange peel for garnish

Instructions

Add sugar to glass, douse it in Angostura bitters and muddle
Add 60ml of Rebel Yell bourbon and stir until sugar dissolves
Add ice and strain into serving glass
Express oil of orange peel around lip of glass and add as garnish

PINK NEGRONI

Negronis are staples on bar menus the world over, and with good reason, and this contemporary interpretation puts a citrusy spin on the long-time favourite.

Ingredients

2oz of gin
1oz of Campari
1oz of lemon juice
1oz of Lillet Blanc
3 dashes of Bittermens burlesque bitters
1 sprig of tarragon for garnish

Instructions

Combine gin, Campari, lemon juice, Lillet, and bitters in a cocktail shaker filled with ice, then shake vigorously
Strain into a martini glass and garnish with a sprig of tarragon

MOJITO

The perfect summer drink, this rum-fronted cocktail a more-than-suitable refreshment for those hot summer days.

Ingredients

2oz of white rum
1/2oz of simple syrup
3/4oz of fresh lime juice
Mint leaves

Instructions

Add mint, simple syrup and lime juice to a shaker and muddle
Add white rum and ice, and shake vigorously
Strain into serving glass filled with ice and garnish with mint leaves

PINK GRAPEFRUIT WHISKY SOUR

A fruit-forward twist on a spirit-forward favourite, this is one whisky sour that packs a powerful citrusy punch.

Ingredients

1 pink grapefruit
2oz of whisky
5oz of lemon juice
2+ tbsp of sugar

Instructions

Grate roughly 1 teaspoon of pink grapefruit zest and mix with sugar
Wet the rim of serving glass and dip into the zest-sugar mixture
Squeeze the juice of one grapefruit into a large glass, then add the whisky, lemon juice and sugar. Stir until sugar dissolves.
Add ice to serving glass, pour the drink mixture then stir
Garnish with pink grapefruit wedge