Burgundy and Beyond: Wine tips from Justerini & Brooks’ Managing Director

It wasn’t so very long ago that Bordeaux, that most pre-eminent of French wine regions, claimed to have something of a monopoly when it came to making the world’s finest vintages. And, to be fair, up until seven years ago, its winemakers – particularly those of the Grand Cru persuasion – were permanent fixtures at the top of any list of top tipple producers.

Back in 2011, though, that all changed. Global demand for Bordeaux tanked, and Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Lafite, to name but two, suddenly found themselves jostling for table space with a bunch of upstart Burgundians. Fast forward seven more years, and the supplicant has become the master, with Burgundy now, arguably, dominating the industry – its reputation impeccable and its per-bottle price becoming ever more premium.

Now, though, some see signs that this prized province is also passing its peak. Where, then, should discerning oenophiles turn to for their next fine wine fix? Few are better qualified to conjure an answer to that particular conundrum than Chadwick Delaney, Managing Director of Justerini & Brooks, the most-lauded of longstanding London wine merchants…

Chadwick Delaney of Justerini & Brooks on Burgundy wines and beyond — *Chadwick Delaney, Managing Director of Justerini & Brooks*

What do you see as the defining wine trend in Asia right now?

That would have to be the rise of Burgundy, though that applies to the whole world and not just Asia. Most notably, estates such as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti are commanding astronomical prices, but other lesser-known producers are also doing well. This is largely down to Burgundy’s talented new generation of winemakers who, I think it’s safe to say, are going through something of a renaissance right now. After the Big Bordeaux Bust of 2011, collectors in search of alternative high-quality wines immediately fell under Burgundy’s spell.

Following several years of soaring demand, is there a danger that Burgundy is now on course for its own Big Bust?

That’s very difficult to determine. The Burgundy dynamic right now is very different to that of pre-crash Bordeaux. Back then, it was a change of government policy in China – one of its biggest markets – that saw ostentatious gift-giving suddenly frowned upon, resulting in demand dropping overnight.

Thanks in part to its smaller production capacity, Burgundy has never been reliant on mass demand from China. In fact, if anything was to trigger a collapse in its value proposition, it would more likely be a change in priority on the part of collectors. It’s not inconceivable that they might one day think: “Instead of spending tens of thousands of pounds on a single case of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, I’d rather find something equally satisfying, but rather more wallet-friendly…”

Barbarescu in Italy's Piedmont region may be a Burgundy successor — *Barbarescu in Italy’s Piedmont region may be a Burgundy successor*

Are there any other regions that you particularly see as on the way up?

There is a notable spike of interest in the wines coming out of Piedmont in northern Italy. It’s perhaps significant that there’s a number of similarities between the Burgundy and Piedmont estates. In both cases, they tend to be small, family-owned, single varietal vineyards producing very aromatic, expressive wines. In particular, Piedmont’s Barolo and Barbaresco are proving to be performers of note, suggesting to some that the region will evolve along very similar lines to Burgundy.

Looking further afield in Europe, Germany has won a number of admirers over recent years. In fact, it is officially our fastest-growing region. The German whites tend to be particularly dry, a characteristic that makes them eminently restaurant-friendly – a fact not lost on the sommeliers of many fine-dining establishments. Then there’s the pinot noirs, which, while having a unique German identity, in taste terms are also far more reminiscent of Bourgogne than any of their New World counterparts.

German wines may succeed Burgundy as the next big thing — *German wines may succeed Burgundy as the next Big Thing*

Thank you.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Cloudy Bay: A tete-a-tete on the New Zealand vineyard’s iconic wines

For centuries, the French regions of Bordeaux and then Burgundy dominated any discussion about the world’s best wines. However, the past few decades have seen something of a renaissance in New World vintages – a fact not lost on eager oenophiles looking to expand their horizons and their collections. Among the new crop of up-and-coming regions is New Zealand, with its crisp, flavoursome Sauvignon Blancs firmly leading the charge. Perhaps the most notable of these Kiwi vineyards is Cloudy Bay, located at the very tip of the nation’s South Island. We talk to Jim White, Technical Director of Cloudy Bay, to find out more…

What made you decide to move to New Zealand and join Cloudy Bay?

I was actually offered the role while working for the winery that started Cloudy Bay in 1985, Cape Mentelle in Margaret River. I’d visited Cloudy Bay a few years prior and fell in love with New Zealand then. It’s not every day that an opportunity arrives to be involved in grape growing and making wines at such an iconic winery as Cloudy Bay, so I jumped at the chance.

*Jim White, Technical Director of Cloudy Bay Vineyard*

What are some of the characteristics that set Cloudy Bay’s winemaking apart from its competitors?

We just try to make wines that speak of the soil, climate and people of our home in New Zealand, we strive for freshness, vibrant fruitiness and balance. The key to making our distinctive wines are in the vineyards, their terroirs and the detailed work that we do during the growing season. It’s what sets us apart from other New Zealand wineries, a fact that is particularly evident in our Sauvignon Blanc.

What would you say are the defining characteristics of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc?

The wine always has a core of citrus (limes, grapefruit), stone fruit (peach, nectarine) aromas and flavours with hints of passionfruit, the flavours explode in the mouth, and the finish is long and dry with refreshing acidity. In one word delicious. 2018 was the warmest season on record in Marlborough, meaning our earliest finish to harvest, only by one day. The weather conditions helped create a hugely aromatic Sauvignon Blanc with ripe flavours with intense, concentrated flavour.

Tell us a little bit about Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW) and what it stands for.

AMW is a self-imposed quality standard covering grape varieties (100 percent Sauvignon Blanc), grape source (100 percent from Marlborough), vineyard yields and bottling in New Zealand to ensure consumers get the very best quality Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that the region is so famous for. It is an initiative of 45 of Marlborough’s quality focused producers who want to enhance the regions wine quality reputation.

Finally, what is your own personal favourite wine?

That’s a tricky one to answer as I love a diverse number of wines from around the world, as they say variety is the spice of life. If I had to choose one only to drink every day, it would be a toss-up between a great Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, from where, well anywhere really as long as it’s delicious!

Thank you.

Interview by: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Cloudy Bay

Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare Port Ellen offers a sip from a bygone time

Even as the whisky world bemoans the doomed distilleries of Scotland that shut down in the ’80s, Johnnie Walker Blue Label has resurrected the taste of a bygone era in its limited-edition Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare Port Ellen bottle, at the heart of which lies the unique flavours of the Islay single malt produced at Port Ellen, a ‘ghost’ distillery that shut its doors in 1983 – one of the rarest and most highly sought-after single malts in the world (according to the RW101 Database Statistics in May 2018).

Nestled on the edge of Kilnaughton Bay, watched over by the four-sided Carraig Fhada lighthouse and the occasional ethereal glow of the Northern Lights, the Port Ellen distillery is now silent but the memory of the ships setting sail with their precious cargo of unique single malt whisky is one that still endures.

To recapture this spirit, Johnnie Walker Master Blender Jim Beveridge has hand-selected seven of the rarest expressions of individual whiskies, none less than 20 years old, from the unparalleled Johnnie Walker Blue Label reserves and has intricately crafted them to balance the unique peaty character of Port Ellen single malt.

Beveridge explains the blending process, saying: “The incredibly rare ‘ghost’ whiskies from Caledonian and Carsebridge add layers of creamy, vanilla sweetness, while rare expressions of malts from Mortlach, Dailuaine, Cragganmore, Blair Athol and Oban deliver rolling waves of waxy citrus, rich malt and tropical fruit flavours – all perfectly balanced by the distinctive maritime smokiness of Port Ellen that lingers in the long and warming finish.”

A single sip of this unique creation is a fascinating glimpse into the rich history of Scotch whisky. Let’s raise a toast to that!

Info: Johnnie Walker

White Walker by Johnnie Walker: Johnnie Walker’s exclusive Game of Thrones-inspired whisky

With cooling temperatures prevailing across Hong Kong, one unmistakable truth is emerging: Winter is here. And, with the countdown to the final season of TV phenomenon Game of Thrones well under way – April 2019! – there was no better time for renowned whisky brand Johnnie Walker to unveil its latest GoT-inspired tipple: the limited-edition White Walker by Johnnie Walker.

Inspired by the most enigmatic of GoT characters – the White Walker – Johnnie Walker has brought all its considerable design expertise to bear to create the most appropriately frosty bottle for the special release. Even the most passing of glances at the beautiful bottle will reveal its fantastical inspirations. Amidst a swirl of white and blue frosted glass, the brand’s iconic Striding Man mascot has donned battle armour in preparation for the massive showdown with the Night King’s forces. In a deft nod to GoT’s famed motto ‘Winter is Coming’ (and to allow partakers to know the bottle is sufficiently chilled) once its temperature reaches sub-zero, the hidden words ‘Winter is Here’ magically appears on its side.

Within the glamorous exterior lies a succulently smooth blended Scotch – with tasting notes of vanilla, red berries and caramelised sugar – created using single malts from Cardhu and Clynelish, one of Scotland’s northernmost distilleries. Blender George Harper used the Frozen North as his starting point for creating White Walker. He said: “Whiskies from Clynelish have endured long, Scottish Winters, not dissimilar to the long periods endured by the Night’s Watch who have ventured north of the wall – so it was the perfect place to start when creating this unique whisky.”

In a move that thrilled Hong Kong’s whisky enthusiasts, Johnnie Walker recently held an exclusive White Walker launch party at “This Town Needs” in Yau Tong. For the special occasion, the venue was completely transformed into a winter wonderland, replete with falling snow, icy displays and life-sized, frosty Striding Man models. Guests were afforded the opportunity sample White Walker neat or in cocktail form to the beats of a live DJ.

With a limited release of just 3,000 bottles available, any true whisky aficionado should head to the stores sooner rather than later if they want to secure their own bottle of Johnnie Walker’s limited-edition White Walker by Johnnie Walker. Take it as a reward for all of you who face the coming storm and never stop walking.

Luxury choice: Our top five Christmas gift ideas for men

Most women have that one man in their lives for whom it’s almost impossible to pick the right gift. But, dear ladies, if you’re racking your brains for that elusive perfect gift for your man, fret no more, as we have for you our top five Christmas gift ideas for men, all but guaranteed to please even the most fastidious of gentlemen.

First up is TUMI, the American luxury travel accessories brand which has just introduced its Holiday collection, with the most eye-catching luggage surely being the stylish 19 Degree suitcase in two catchy colours – festive ember and gunmetal grey. Nuanced yet bold in equal measure, they pair perfectly with the modern globetrotter.

For entrepreneurs and businessmen for whom work extends beyond nine to six, furniture brand TREE has brought a new work station Hemingway to enhance your office space. Made from solid teak, this compact office companion features multiple drawers and handle-less design to give you enough storage without compromising on aesthetics.

Meanwhile, Italian men’s grooming brand Selvedge Grooming has expanded its line with a new range of eau de toilettes. Available in two distinctive fragrances – the spicy Toscano and the musky Selvetico – they offer a refreshing take on masculinity, a much-needed accessory in any gentleman’s wardrobe.

French champagne brand Perrier-Jouët is all geared up to add more sparkles to your Christmas party with its new Tokyo Grand Brut limited edition in a especially designed box that embraces the unique beauty of The Land of the Rising Sun and the maison’s own savoir-faire. The true highlight, however, is the bottle encased within – blended from around 50 different crus, the Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut is bestowed with a harmonious palate of fresh flowers, yellow fruit and subtle hints of vanilla.

For the tipple-loving gentleman, there’s even more on offer. French home accessories brand Christofle has revealed a limited-edition wineware set called Graphik especially for the holiday season. Constituting what can be the ideal Christmas gift for colleagues or friends, the set includes a sparkly crystal whisky decanter, two whisky glasses and two coasters from the K + T Collection – a great gift for those who enjoy a happy hour at home. Cheers!

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Hop Kong: A veritable brew’s who of the SAR

As thirsty patrons gazed into the far distance, past the twisty line of empty-glass-handed booze-queuers that preceded them, it was clear to all but the most willfully contrary that this occasion did, indeed, mark Hong Kong’s ascendance to the very highest levels of hop-flavoured maltdom. The occasion, of course, was Beertopia 2018, the seventh iteration of the semi-legendary quafferthon, which came to a slightly cloudy head on Hong Kong’s Central Harbourfront in early October.

Even more remarkable than the volume of imbibery afoot was the sheer volume of craft beer there was for imbibing. Wind back to 2011 – or 1 BC (Before Craft) as pintaphiles refer to it – and Hong Kong, while hardly beer-free, was merely awash with the bog-standard brewings of the big boys. While there was the ever-present threat of a Tsingtao-tsunami or a Foster’s flash flood, traces of yer actual craft beer were rarer than body-popping Buddhists.

Even The Globe, one of the most iconic of the island’s pubs, despite boasting a dozen taps and a 200-strong beer menu, was limited to serving solely-imported bevvies. As owner Toby Cooper lamented, looking back at that time: “While there was no shortage of imported beers, local craft beers were harder to come by than a peak time seat on the Island Line.”

Deciding to be part of the solution, in 2013 – just 12 months after the very first Beertopia – Cooper co-founded the Craft Beer Association of Hong Kong. Today, as sign of its success, the Association can point to the fact that Hong Kong is now home to 35 microbreweries. Five years ago, there were just two.

Of the 33 brewcomers, two have proved particularly influential – Rohit Dugar, founder of Young Master Ales, and Christopher Wong, his counterpart over at HK Brewcraft, Explaining how it all started for him, Wong says: “In 2013, a few friends and I – all of us truly endeared to beer – realised that Hong Kong lacked a home brew store, one where you could buy everything, including actual brewing equipment. Thus HK Brewcraft was born and we’ve never really looked back.”

Dugar has a similar story to tell, saying: “When people realise that something has potential, things tend to move quickly in Hong Kong. In our case, at least some of our popularity is down the distinctly Asian ingredients and local flavour profiles we’ve favoured. For instance, we use local ingredients like soba (buckwheat), which allow us to create beers that are truly local in flavour.”

Others, though, have prioritised history over geography. In the case of the Moonzen Brewery – founded in Kwun Tong in 2014 – it teamed up with Beijing-based Jing-A Brewing to recreate one particularly ancient beer, the recipe for which was uncovered during an archeological dig in Xi’an.

For those not opting to resurrect the craft beers of classical times, wily marketing has often sufficed. In the case of the splendidly unimaginatively named Hong Kong Beer Company, brews such as Dragon’s Back Pale Ale and Big Wave Bay IPA had just enough hometown appeal to woo the locals. Whatever the strategy adopted, the outcome is undeniable, with some 600,000 litres of craft beer now knocked back every year from Hong Kong Beer Company alone.

Above all, it’s the desire to create something new that seems to inspire most craft beer creators. One such case is Mike Hu, an amateur home brewer who has taken it up as a hobby. Testifying to the sheer joy of his own experience, Hu says: “Once one of my beers is ready, I get together with the other home brew guys and we check out each other’s brews. It’s great fun.”

For those looking to take the hobby to the next level, Hong Kong now even has its own version of a home brewing contest – the Hoppy Cup – which takes place later this month. With everyone from newbies to old hands welcome to compete, no doubt the longer queues at future Beertopias will be for many of the winning brews.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

‘Tis the Season: The top December events to check out in Hong Kong

Kick off the festive season with these can't-miss December events in Hong Kong — *Kick off the festive season with these can’t-miss December events in Hong Kong*

Although Christmas festivities are drawing ever-nearer, there are more goings-on in Hong Kong than just Saint Nick’s celebrations. From theatrical performances like The Nutcracker and Madame Butterfly to a mega pinot party at Central Harbourfront, here are some can’t-miss December events you should pencil into your calendar.

1 December: Pinot Palooza

Start the festive season as you mean to go on at the world’s largest wine party. Pinot Palooza are bringing some of the finest pinot noirs from Australia, New Zealand, France, Italy, North and South America right to the heart of Hong Kong. With Pinot Palooza clearly not a fan of faffing about with tokens, the ticket price includes a free, exclusive wine glass which is yours to take home and keep, plus as many sips and samples as you like. Red is the colour of Christmas after all. And white.

Hong Kong Observation Wheel, Central. HK$350.

6-8 December: Designinspire

The only Hong Kong expo dedicated to providing a global platform for innovative design opens its doors once again. From ecologically-sustainable lifestyle products to clean and convenient urban planning, this is where the future is taking shape. This year, exhibitors will be using interactive installations, 3D models and, for the first time ever, virtual reality headsets to bring their cutting-edge contemporary ideas into truly collaborative arena. If you’re wondering if there really is an alternative to plastic or just how to cool down the city in the summer, this is where you’ll find the answer. Probably.

Hong Kong Convention Centre, Wan Chai. Free admission.

7-9 December: Madame Butterfly

Puccini’s classic tragedy in three acts comes to Hong Kong on a mission to stun audiences with its emotional tale of unrequited love in a production that is equally haunting and impressive. It’s not only a delight for the ears, but also for the eyes, largely on account of its painstakingly-researched costumes and beautifully-rendered scenery. While its elegant colonial-era Japanese aesthetics give an aura of antiquity, this heart-wrenching tale of East meets West is truly transcendentally timeless.

Hong Kong City Hall Concert Hall, Edinburgh Place, Central. HK$180 – 680.

9 December: Longines Hong Kong International Races

While all true equestrian enthusiasts will have had this date in their calendar for several months now, it may have eluded those only moderately horsey, but that’s no reason to miss out. It would, after all, be somewhat remiss overlook 7,200 metres of races, jockeys from more than 60 countries, plus 18 home-grown competitors and a grand total of HK$93 million available in prize money. This is, indeed, top-quality, high-stakes racing at its best. After all, few events can boast such an impressive pedigree as this true highlight of Hong Kong’s horse racing season.

Sha Tin Racecourse, Sha Tin. HK$10.

14-26 December: The Nutcracker

With the Hong Kong Ballet’s newly-reinvigorated take on “the greatest music ever made for dance”, courtesy of the inimitable Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, Christmas really is coming early this year. Watch in delight as toys, candies, flora, fauna and, of course, the eponymous nutcracker all come to life and set about thwarting the plans of the engagingly evil Rat King in this quintessential festive fare. Come along and discover just why The Nutcracker is such a perennial Christmas treat.

Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. HK$220 – 1,000.

22-24 December: Afternoon tea at The Peninsula

Christmas is a time for charity and indulgence and no one knows that better than The Peninsula, a truly iconic HK institution. This year, its luxurious lobby features festive afternoon “teas of hope”, complete with carols performed by many of the city’s leading choirs, all in aid of the Shanghai K Charitable Foundation and Make-A-Wish Hong Kong. If that’s still not enough to get you into the festive spirit then come down to their European-themed Christmas market on the 24th for carols, mulled wine and a few last-minute Christmas gifts.

The Peninsula Hotel, Tsim Sha Tsui. HK$508. Bookings must be made in advance.

22-25 December: Hong Kong Mega Showcase

We all have that one person in our lives who seems impossible to shop for when it comes to Christmas. This year, though, worry not as the Hong Kong Mega Showcase brings you the greatest and most diverse shopping experience you could ever wish for. Within its bounds, you will find themed food and wine zones, as well as dedicated spaces for fashion, beauty, home wares, electrical goods and even designer automotives. A true Christmas miracle for all last-minute shoppers.

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. HK$20.

30-31 December: A Viennese New Year

If you’re looking for a refined way to wave farewell to 2018 then look no further than award-winning Norwegian trumpet soloist Tine Thing Helseth, who is once again returning to the Hong Kong City Hall Concert Hall, where she previously performed with both the Hong Kong Philharmonic and the Hong Kong Sinfonietta Orchestra. This year’s Austria-inspired solo show features her unique take on Hummel’s Trumpet Concerto, considered by many as the veritable holy grail of classical trumpeting. An event not be missed by those who want to see out the year in style.

Hong Kong City Hall Concert Hall, Edinburgh Place, Central. HK$220 – 480.

30-31 December: Kowloon Old Boys’ Choir 10th Anniversary Concert

Since forming back in 2008, this talented group of Wah Yan College alumni has lost none of the love of music that characterised their early years, with their talent and dedication having transformed them from enthusiastic amateurs to award-winning semi-professionals. This will be their first large-scale public performance and a mammoth step forward in their mission to spread awareness of the importance of music education. Proceeds from the event went to the school where their own Euterpean adventure began.

The Jockey Club Auditorium, HK Polytechnic University, Jordan. HK$120 – 250.

Perrier-Jouët joins The Conrad Hong Kong for Afternoon Tea

Unveiling its latest collaboration, luxury champagne brand Perrier-Jouët presents The Conrad Hong Kong’s latest afternoon tea set. Nestled in the hotel lobby, Executive Chef Claudio Rossi and Pastry Chef Billy Yuen invite you to escape the cold of winter and the rush of the holiday season and celebrate the joy of Christmas.

The delightful selection of dishes are made with deluxe ingredients that elevate the festive mood. Sweets lay atop the spread, offering an exciting palate of French cocktail-inspired treats, many with a berry twist. The classic dessert of mini chestnut Mont Blanc stands out as a seasonal favourite, offering an unmatched sweetness to compliment the champagne.

Placed in the centre and bottom of the festive spread lay the savoury items. Among the marvellous assortment of items, the braised wagyu beef short rib with truffle mashed potato stands out and takes you back to Grandma’s holiday cooking. Another holiday favourite the roasted turkey sandwich with cranberry cream that blends together the nostalgia for autumn and the excitement for Christmas – all in one bite!

Complimenting the sweet and savoury dishes of the tea-set perfectly is the Grand Brut Champagne from Perrier-Jouët. Served in a signature flute glass, the beautiful bubbly is the perfect way to usher the festivities with your near and dear ones.

The Bubbly Perrier-Jouët Champagne Afternoon Tea Set is available from 1 December to 6 January.

Text: Bailey Atkinson

Let’s drink to the future with the all-new Louis XIII Smart Decanter

Luxury cognac brand Louis XIII is rather well known for embracing the rich history of the maison. But it seems the cognac house is equally adept at dabbling in new-tech as it is in nostalgia. Indeed, with the soon-to-be-released Louis XIII Smart Decanter, the iconic beverage brand is all set to usher in the future of drinking.

Equipped with a smart NFC chip integrated in the cork stopper, the Smart Decanter will open up an exclusive world of privileges to customers, with a mere touch on their NFC-enabled smartphones. Each decanter will directly connect clients to the LOUIS XIII Society, a private club where members can enjoy exclusive content, unique experiences and personalised services through their smartphones.

Explaining the concept, Ludovic du Plessis, Louis XIII Global Executive Director, says: “As part of our latest attempt to offer our customers the very best experiences, every Louis XIII Smart Decanter will feature a smart solution. This innovation will be launched in first half of 2019 and will be deployed all over the world in the following months.”

It’s safe to say that once the Louis XIII Smart Decanters hit the markets, we’ll not just be thinking – but also drinking – a century ahead!