Gäelle Goossens of Veuve Clicquot on female trailblazing and 200 years of rosé
As Veuve Clicquot celebrates the 200th anniversary of its first rosé, we chat with winemaker Gäelle Goossens about the brand’s legacy of female trailblazing, and staying competitive two centuries on.
With over two centuries of winemaking under its belt, how has Veuve Clicquot stayed so successfully, and what makes it relevant to today’s market?
Veuve Clicquot has a perfect balance between tradition, modernity and innovation. It’s been at the core of its DNA since its foundation. The excellence of our Champagne, and the motto of Madame Clicquot: “Only one quality, the finest”. Our spirit of innovation, inherited from Madame Clicquot certainly explains how the brand has kept being so relevant over the centuries.
Wine-making has traditionally been a male-dominated sphere. What are the biggest challenges you face as a woman, and do you see that culture changing?
Things are changing. We see more and more women becoming winemakers and wine specialists. The main challenge for tomorrow will be to see more women in the top management of wine company.
Tell us a bit about the newly announced Veuve Clicquot Business Woman award.
The Veuve Clicquot Business Woman Award was first initiated in 1972 to honour and sustain the legacy of Madame Clicquot – one of Europe’s first female entrepreneurs. It is awarded to those who share the same qualities: an enterprising spirit, with the courage and the determination necessary to accomplish her business goals.
Following a detailed consultation and voting process with an esteemed jury – a panel of five exceptional business people, and an advisor – the Veuve Clicquot Business Woman Award Hong Kong will be awarded at a prestigious ceremony in Hong Kong in October 2018.
For rosé -drinking novices, what are the top things to keep an eye out for when drinking rosé?
Rosé champagne is not a sweet wine as a still rosé. It has more fruits, more intensity and more structure. Rosé champagne is an excellent choice when in a restaurant to share with friends, as it can be paired with spicy food, red meat, sauce meal, vegetables, raw tuna, etc.
VCP created the first rosé champagne d’assemblage (blending). We vinify our own pinot noir red wines first. They are deep, tannic, full-bodied, fruity and complex.
Finally, what is your favourite rosé vintage from Veuve Clicquot?
Vintage Rosé 1989. Deep, rich, intense and complex with smoky notes and dry fruits aromas.
Thank you.
High Spirits: Japanese whisky shatters world record at auction
Japanese whisky passed yet another milestone recently when a single bottle of Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky Aged 50 Years NV went for a whopping US$ 298,879 at a recent Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction. Sold for twice its pre-sale estimate, the auction house confirmed that it was the highest price ever commanded by a single bottle of Japanese whisky.
Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky Aged 50 Years NV
Commenting on this highly positive outcome, Adam Bilbey, Head of Sotheby’s Wine Asia, said: “With the hammer dropping way above the already high estimate, this was an incredible way to kick off our 2018 sales season in Hong Kong. Once again, we saw active bidding from across Asia, all underpinned by the discerning buyers here in Hong Kong.”
Karuizawa Single Malt Whiskey Aged 50 years 1965
Indeed, Japanese whisky is getting something of a reputation for shattering world auction records. Only last year, the world’s largest-known collection of Karuizawa, a premium out-of-production single malt, set a new world record when it went for almost US$1 million, making it the most expensive Japanese whisky collection of all time.
Macallan Millennium Decanter 50 Year Old 1949
Other impressive performers at the Sotheby’s event included the Macallan Millennium Decanter 50 Year Old 1949, which sold for US$62,922, and the Karuizawa Single Malt Whisky Aged 50 Years 1965, which fetched US$55,057.
Mexican Stand-outs: Demystifying mezcal, the true spirit of Latin America
Those with a taste for tippling will already know that mezcals are the latest libations to tickle Hong Kong’s notoriously fickle fancy. Although introduced only relatively recently, these smoky Mexican spirits have already achieved stratospheric popularity among the city’s beverage cognoscenti.
Which all rather begs the question – what exactly is a ‘mezcal’? Put simply, it’s an innately Mexican style of spirit, one distilled in nine of the country’s 31 states and all derived from the agave, a fleshy plant species native to tropical America.
Mexico is home to over 30 different agave sub-species, with nearly all of them co-opted for alcoholic purposes by one distiller or another. In every instance, a similar distillation process is involved – first the piña (agave stem) is roasted and smoked in an underground pit (which gives mezcal its characteristically smoky taste). Then the residue is crushed and left to ferment in water. Perhaps the best-known of all the mezcals is tequila. This particular variant is made solely from blue agave, an ingredient that gives it its legendary kick.
Armed with this basic grounding in all things mezcal then, which Hong Kong hostelry best meets the needs of the novice imbiber of Mexican hard liquor? The most obvious first stop would be Central’s COA. Taking its inspiration from Oaxaca – Mexico’s leading mezcal-producing state – this cosy new bar is the brainchild of Jay Khan, the award-winning beverage boffin best known for his work at Foxglove and Dr. Fern’s Gin Parlour.
Overall, COA is clearly Khan’s paean of praise to Mexican-style intoxication. It boasts mezcals distilled from 20 different agave varietals, including tequila and raicilla, and also offers other traditional tipples such as tepache, a fermented fruit-based alcohol.
While the drinkery wears its Mexican affiliations with true panache, Khan maintains the establishment remains, above all, a cocktail bar, saying: “While we do want to introduce the wonderful traditions of tequila and mezcal to our guests, we also pride ourselves on our wider artisanal cocktail range.”
For those solely set on a little hombre homage, however, the Horchata de Pistachio – a delicious cocktail that balances Ocho Blanco tequila with homemade horchata (a milky, nutty concoction) and pistachio orgeat, garnished with a pistachio biscuit and purple sweet potato dust – is probably the ideal place to start.
Another true Mexican stand-out is the Mezcal Paloma, a blend of mezcal, tequila, grapefruit soda and lime. According to Khan, this is the drink favoured by visiting bartenders whenever they pop into COA. A better recommendation you are not likely to get.
Aware that many can prove a trifle wary of Mexican alcohol, Khan sees himself as on a mission to convert such unbelievers, saying: “When someone lands up at COA and doesn’t order a tequila or a mezcal cocktail, I have to ask them why. Inevitably, it’s because they’ve heard bad things. After they’ve tried a Horchata de Pistachio or two, however, all such inhibitions seem to vanish.”
While the pioneering work undertaken by COA (and several other like-minded hotspots, including Mezcalito, Brickhouse and 11 Westside) certainly seems to have won the city over, it’s no secret that Hong Kong has a notoriously short attention span.
Time and time again, today’s favoured flavours have become undrinkably gauche within a month or two. Will mezcal be the one to woo the city’s drinkers into a long-term libation assignation? We certainly hope so.
Singleton of Glen Ord: Soak your senses in Scotch sensorium
The Singleton of Glen Ord Single Malt Scotch Whisky has unveiled a one-of-a-kind ‘Sensorium’ at Taste of Hong Kong happening from today till 25 March at Central Harbourfront.
Guests are welcome to step inside a giant purpose-built cask and take a seat at the tasting bar surrounded by a 360° video projection that help tells The Singleton Story through a series of props.
In a fifteen-minute tasting experience – accommodating eight guests at one sitting – guests will be virtually transported to the Scottish Highlands to explore The Singleton of Glend Ord’s rich history, unique production process and flavour profile. Led by the brand’s ambassador, be consumed by the sights, sounds, smells, and of course, taste of The Singleton’s 12, 15 and 18-year-old expressions.
Entry to ‘The Singleton of Glen Ord Sensorium’, inclusive of a 12, 15 and 18- year-old flight tasting, costs HK$100 (in addition to a Taste festival entry ticket) and is fully redeemable against an on-site purchase of your favourite sensorium expression. The Singleton of Glen Ord bar will also be serving by the glass throughout.
Philanthropist’s Cellar vintage wines auction to help charity in China
The Philanthropist’s Cellar, a unique collection of 800 vintages, is going under the hammer at Sotheby’s Hong Kong on 31 March. Estimated at approximately HK$60 million, the collection is pitted to be the company’s largest-ever single-owner wine sale in Asia.
Owned by a private collector, the Philanthropist’s Cellar is distinguished by the combination of depth and breadth of the greatest wines ever made in Bordeaux and Bugundy. Some of the highlights include Chateau Lafite (1986), estimated at HK$85,000 to HK$120,000, Chateau Haut-Brion (1989), estimated at HK$120,000 to HK$180,000 and Montrachet Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (1989), estimated at HK$450,000 to HK$600,000.
All proceeds will be donated to improve health and education conditions of children in rural China, thanks to the efforts of the Rural Education Action Program (REAP) of Stanford University, the major beneficiary of the sale. REAP has earlier done similar work in rural parts of China, like setting up education centres and providing basic sanitation facilities.
Afternoon tea and after-work tipples at newly-opened The Murray
Murray Building, perched mid-way up the hill on Cotton Tree Drive, has finally completed its transformation from drab office building to swanky five-star establishment: The Murray. Excited to see what changes had been wrought, Gafencu was among the first to partake in The Murray’s F&B offerings, namely afternoon tea at the Garden Lounge and cocktail concoctions at Murray Lane.
The Murray Signature Afternoon Tea, priced at HK$295 per head, is served at the spacious Garden Lounge. It seems the perfect surrounds to enjoy a refreshing afternoon reprieve, with floor-to-ceiling windows allowing beams of natural sunlight to waft in, while also allowing guests to take in the picturesque greenery of Murray Lawns outside.
When the two-tier tea set arrives, it’s in a burst of eye-popping colour. Among the sweet nibbles were a refreshingly tart Citron Tea Cake, and our personal favourite, a Sweet Blueberry and Mascarpone Crème Verrine. The savouries, meanwhile, included a line of rainbow-coloured finger sandwiches with more traditional fillings like smoked salmon, cucumber and eggs-mayo.
The standouts, though, were the sinfully luxurious scones. Complemented with fresh clotted cream and a range of fruit compotes, each mouthful was a guilty pleasure. There was a whole array of Jing tea to wash down these tasty treats with, but we opted for their signature Golden Garden, a delicate, citrusy camomile-oolong iced tea blend that perfectly balanced the stronger flavours of the tea set.
After having our fill, we meandered downstairs to Murray Lane, the hotel bar. Boasting strong lines and dark, masculine colours, this seems like the perfect spot for weary finance-types from nearby banks to relax after work.
Helmed by head mixologist Kervin Unido, an award-winning bartender who’s already fronted some of the city’s favourite watering holes, cocktail craftsmanship is very much the focus here. Standouts here include the potent Nifty Fifty (HK$150), Unido’s take on the classic Manhattan cocktail, and VOC, a sweet-yet-sour concoction boasting notes of maple, ginger and cassia. Meanwhile, alcohol-averse drinkers can opt for a tasty mocktail from the bar’s ‘Free-Spirited’ menu.
It seems, then, that the new F&B options at The Murray has something for everyone, be it an afternoon tea with your girlfriends or a post-work tete-a-tete with your colleagues. And soon, there will be even more to look forward to, as a new rooftop eatery, Popinjays, is set to open in the coming months.
Burgundy Wines: Five hidden gems from the Bourgogne region
Burgundy wines may have seen the smallest harvest in two decades due to an unexpectedly harsh spring in 2016 (read more here), but if the Bourgogne Week 2018 that recently took place in our fair city is anything to go by, the craze for burgundy wines has skyrocketed more than ever.
Showcasing 155 references (over 40% increase from last time) from 25 importers, the event covered everything from newly released 2016s to lesser-known appellations, underlining the breath and depth of wines from France’s most famous wine region, Bourgogne.
Here we shine the spotlight on five hidden gems from the event.
Louis Jadot Beaune Grèves Le Clos Blanc Domaine Gagey 2014: The Beaune vineyard – one of the most extensive vineyards of Côte de Beaune – was established in 1936. This particular wine comes from the predominantly red premier cru of Beaune Grèves. With a well-balanced palate and a mix of fruity and apricot flavours, it’s both ripe and acidic.
Domaine Gille Côte de Nuits-Villages Blanc 2015: The Côte de Nuits-Villages is produced by five of the smaller communes of the Côte de Nuits. Only a mere fraction of the production comprises white wines, which makes this particular appellation as rare as it is elegant. Boasting a full-bodied mouth with a mineral aftertaste mingled with Chardonnay fruit, it’s perfect for those looking for a less acidic drink.
Château de Chamirey Mercurey 2013: At 630 hectares, Mercurey is one of the largest communes within Bourgogne. The vineyard, whose location keeps it well protected from humid breeze, has been gaining more appreciation in the right circles for the growing quality of its wines. This particular burgundy wine is a classic Pinot Noir with a long finish guaranteed to get a nod of approval from the most discerning of sommeliers.
Gérard Quivy Gevrey-Chambertin Les Journeaux 2013: With old vines dating back to 1933, the vineyard uses only organic fertilizers for the harvest. Dark red – almost purple – in colour, this is a subtle pinot noir that showcases a smooth finesse throughout. Balancing cherry flavours with a hint of spices, this one’s a vintage with hidden depths and silky tannin.
Petit Chablis Domaine Lavantureux 2015: The vines of the Lavantureux family are divided into Chablis and Petit Chablis by an imaginary boundary running through their vineyards. This implies that though the appellation is ‘Petit’, it displays quite a few qualities of its more pedigreed neighbour. Notes of citrus and white flowers create a harmonious balance and the refreshing acidity can be a perfect companion with goat cheese.
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Burgundy En Primeur: Are wine investments a good idea?
After 2016’s paltry Burgundy harvest, Robin Lynam ponders the merits of investing in valuable wines before release
Few of the grape-growers of Burgundy will look back on 2016 with fond nostalgia. Lulled into a false sense of security by a mild winter, the region was hit hard in the spring – first by unexpectedly severe frost, and then by hailstorms, compounded by unusually heavy rain. The quantity of the eventual harvest was drastically reduced.
That’s bad news for the many wine lovers in Hong Kong and China who in recent years have turned to Burgundy rather than Bordeaux when buying premium priced French wine, but at least the quality has turned out to be much better than had been widely feared thanks to a hot early summer which helped the vines to recover, and fine weather during the harvest itself.
In some ways that just makes it all the more painful that there isn’t enough to go ‘round. Just over 163 million bottles are available from 2016, which, against an average calculated over the last 10 years, means production is down by about 20%.
Smaller quantities of course mean higher prices. The Burgundians are traditionally less prone than their Bordeaux counterparts to overcharge for their wines, but they too have to make a living, and if there is less to sell, then they have to ask more for it.
So should Burgundy lovers be looking at buying 2016 wines en primeur – before release – rather than waiting to see what prices are when the vintage has been shipped?
The rules have changed in recent years. Although not the only region to invite customers to invest early in wines at a supposedly lower price than they will later command, it was Bordeaux that made en primeur a major element of its marketing.
As demand from Chinese buyers for the top Bordeaux wines went through the roof in the early years of this century, so did the en primeur prices. Customers who had bought with the idea of possibly turning a profit on at least some of the bottles found themselves holding cases worth less on the open market than they had paid for in advance.
The market has since adjusted, and provided you are buying high quality well known wines wisely through a reputable wine merchant, Bordeaux en primeur now looks once again like a reasonably attractive idea. But that period of inflation disillusioned some wine lovers, many of whom turned instead to Burgundy.
Burgundy en primeur has generally been less about price than about obtaining an allocation year after year as a preferred regular customer. During these times of strangled supply, if you want to obtain some of the better wines, en primeur is almost the only way.
Bordeaux and Burgundy are talked of so often as though they were two sides of the same coin that people tend to forget that even in years when Burgundy is not beset with frost and hailstorms, the quantities of wine the region produces still amount to only a tiny fraction of Bordeaux’s output.
Either region can experience bad weather and a reduced harvest, of course, but Bordeaux has more than 120,000 hectares under vine by comparison with Burgundy’s just under 30,000.
In Hong Kong and China much of the interest in both regions is focused on the red rather than white wines, and in this area too Bordeaux’s production dwarfs Burgundy’s. Still, white wines account for around 61% of Burgundy’s total production, and sparkling white Cremant de Bourgogne, which is often a very acceptable alternative to Champagne, represents another 11%. That leaves just 28%, and although that is mostly red, rosé accounts for some of it. Burgundy is 50% planted with Chardonnay to just 41% Pinot Noir.
“The question of volumes is inescapable,” says Adam Bruntlett, who has succeeded Jasper Morris MW as the Burgundy buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd. “While we have been well looked after by suppliers thanks to our longstanding relationships, there are many instances where volumes are limited.”
With strong pressure on prices and volumes, this, suggests Bruntlett, is a time to start looking beyond the Grand Cru vineyards. He points to lesser known producers and areas of fine but much less famous terroir which produce wines that don’t command the same stratospheric prices, whatever the weather has been like in any given year.
“The 2016 vintage is the time to look beyond the bigger names and consider lesser-known villages such as Marsannay, Santenay, St Romain and Auxey-Duresses,” says Bruntlett. The 2016 Burgundy white wines, he notes, generally have a fresher, more classic feel than their richer 2015 counterparts.
“Some frost-affected vineyards display a more angular profile, but many of these filled out over the course of the autumn barrel tastings and will continue to do so with further élevage [a wine’s adolescence or education]. The very best white wines will come close to matching those of the 2014 vintage.”
For Chablis lovers, says Bruntlett – and you can’t really enjoy seafood and not love Chablis to go with it – the bad news is that quantities are severely down. As for the 2016 reds, in general Bruntlett finds them more consistent than the whites, and worth considering at all quality levels from Grand Cru down to everyday casual drinking.
“Across the board, the wines display an unmistakably Burgundian Pinot Noir fruit character. They offer a beguiling paradox of initial rich fruit on the front of the palate and succulent acidity on the finish, leaving one delightfully perplexed as to whether this is a warm or cool vintage. The very best wines are the equal of the 2015s – albeit in a style that will appeal more to the traditional Burgundy drinker,” he says.
Berry Bros has a good range of red and white Burgundies available to its Asian-based customers across a range of price points. Other well connected wine merchants able to offer a reliable en primeur service include Altaya, ASC Wines, and Watson’s Wine.
Terroirs et Signatures de Bourgogne / Photo: Anthony Upton
Still shopping for a few cases from the Grand Cru vineyards? “Clos Vougeot and Vosne Romanee experienced a very good vintage,” says José Lau, Private Sales Manager for Berry Bros & Rudd in Hong Kong. He too recommends buying en primeur.
“Supply and demand play a big role in why en primeur makes plenty of sense for Burgundy. There has been a huge increase in Burgundy drinkers in the past 10 to 12 years which has driven prices up again and again. Buying early will save you money down the road – and you might even use it as an investment to gain some.”
This article appears on Gafencu Magazine’s March 2018 print issue entitled “Burgundy En Primeur” by Robin Lynam
Legendary Cos d’Estournel to unveil limited-edition vintage “COS100”
Cos d’Estournel — a legendary vineyard in the Bordeux region of France — is set to unveil a limited-edition vintage in Hong Kong this March. The single varietal “COS100” vintage was created in honour of the 100th anniversary of “Parcelle des Femmes”, a treasured plot located within the heart of Cos d’Estournel vineyards.
Harvested in 2015, this special edition is a tribute to the brave women who despite the fact that their men were at war, faced adversity and forged ahead to plant vines to maintain the Château for the next century. This rare and exceptional wine was derived from these one-hundred-year-old Merlot vines.
COS100will be exclusively available in large format bottles,giving the wine extraordinary aging potential. This exclusive and emblematic winewill be exclusively available through private sales in just 10 Balthazars (12 litre) and 100 Double Magnums (3 litre). Each Balthazar and Double Magnum is individually numbered and bottled by hand at the Château and bears a delicately engraved inscription. Presented in a leather box, the COS100 is a true collector’s piece that can be handed down for generations.
Only two of the Balthazars will be sold during live auctions in New York City and Hong Kong. All proceeds will be donated to Elephant Family, a non-profit organisation that aims to save Indian elephants from extinction through field projects, conservation efforts and habitat rehabilitation.
Following the two international auctions, 100 Double Magnums will be available for private purchase. To find out more, visit www.estournel.com/COS100.
Restaurant review: With wholesome Cali cuisine, Big Sur brings a slice of California to Central
The moment you enter Big Sur, you’d be forgiven if you thought you had accidentally landed in a barbecue joint right in the middle of sunny California! From its blue and blonde timber interiors to the signature Californian bear head sculpture at the entrance, Big Sur resembles a traditional Californian diner even before you take a look at the menu!
Big Sur offers 14 different types of craft beer
What draws you in at this newly opened restobar at SoHo is not just its warm interiors, but also the rows and rows of beer taps – 15 to be exact – located strategically near the entrance! That’s right, Big Sur boasts 15 different taps that serve 14 rotating craft beers, created by Hong Kong’s Young Master Brewery, as well as a tap-served gin and tonic.
Look out for unusual brews like Orange is the New Black, a decadent limited-edition release with ‘roasty’ coffee notes and Fake Juice, a fruity IPA that’s perfect for spring.
If cocktails are your preferred poison, head to Big Sur’s cocktail section. You may be pleasantly surprised to find your favourite cocktails being given a healthy makeover with fair-trade craft spirits and fresh-pressed fruit juice. The only loophole? You may end up quite tipsy as these ‘guiltless’ tipples taste more like juice and less like alcohol, coaxing you to drink more than you otherwise would! We speak from experience…
Big Sur’s mixed BBQ plate is soul-fulfilling
To match the well-stocked bar, Big Sur offers a wholesome menu to boot. Executive Chef Conor Beach draws from his American heritage to plate up a contemporary barbecue cuisine in typical Cali style, with a healthy dose of Latino fare to match. We were particularly impressed by the Baja Taco (HK$50 each) and the Whole BBQ Fish (HK$290), which combined hearty and healthy in a sumptuous duet.
For the dessertarians in the house, we’d recommend the Texas ‘Sheet’ Stack Cake (HK$90), a wholly decadent affair in chocolate cake, dark chocolate glaze, pecans, walnuts and pistachios, topped with whipped cream.
Big Sur’s Texas ‘Sheet’ Stack Cake will get a nod of approval from the most discerning dessert lovers
Oh, and did we mention that Big Sur doubles up as a breakfast and lunch destination for office-goers and the weekend crowd alike? In other words, whether you’re a morning person or a night owl, Big Sur’s doors are always open for you from 9am till late.
For reservations, call (852) 2529 3001 or click here.
