Cool Chilean: Saluting the bright, mineral South American west coast whites born in mineral-rich soils
Perhaps a little surprisingly given its far-flung New World location, Chile has a long history of making wine. Production dates from the 16th century with the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors, while further developments in the mid-19th century saw the introduction of French wine varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carménère and Cabernet Franc.
Fantastic fourth
The 1980s saw a growth in the industry with improved fermentation techniques and the South American country is now firmly established on the winemaking map, with recent figures placing it as the world’s fourth-largest exporter of wine. Falling between the latitudes of 32°S and 38°S, the vineyards of Chile have been defined into several distinct regions since December 1994. Coquimbo in the north and the Central Valley areas of Maipo, Cachapoal and Colchagua are considered among the best.
Limarí Valley, a sub-region of Coquimbo, is one of Bernice Liu’s favourite wine regions. The Hong Kong actress, winemaker and Wine Maven platform entrepreneur (winemaven.io) clearly adores the quality of the viticulture emanating from the area. “This region is a pretty cool place for wines,” she enthuses. “It is where my Chardonnay comes from!” She makes Lunoria and Vartiere Chardonnay in collaboration with Pagnel winery.
Chardonnay hooray
The main wines produced in the region are Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Liu believes the location has some distinct advantages for certain wines, stating: “Limarí Valley is one of the most prized areas for Chardonnay in Chile, with great soil and climate conditions. With it having a sea-to-soil likeness, fresher whites are able to be produced here.”
She cites Concha y Toro winery as an example of a famous producer of lovely white wines in the valley.
Roots and routes
Chile also has historical advantages that have cemented its winemaking tradition. As Liu points out, it was not affected by the phylloxera louse. Feeding on the roots and leaves of grapevines, these insects destroyed much of the wines worldwide in the late 19th century.
Mineral shine
There is good minerality in a soil that tends to be made of clay, silt and chalk in Limarí Valley. Due to a relatively moderate amount of rainfall, the vines on these mineral-rich soils are fed with drip irrigation, and this combination creates fresh wines with a notable mineral edge, a quality noted by Liu when describing her favourite wine from the region.
“Naturally, my Lunoria and Vartiere Chardonnays are my favourites,” she says. “I love medium-bodied whites, with good natural acidity. With moderate amounts of clay soil, minerality shines through, and makes them a great food pairing wine, especially with Asian cuisine and the varied flavours from dish to dish.
Aromatic show
“The aromas and taste of these wines have hints of floral, vanilla, ripe stoned fruit and a bit of oak to ease the acidity. Minerality from the clay soil is also present,” she adds, again referring to the mineral edge in the wines of this region.
“The best part is that though they are served cold, the glass can be left to stand and the aromatics really start to show.”
Vine Glorious: Bordeaux producers bank Left and Right on their ability to craft complex collectable wines
Bordeaux is considered a benchmark in the world of fine wine. Located in southwest France, the region is known for its exceptional terroir that is home to more than 7,000 wine-producing châteaux. Talented winemakers craft compelling wines within the red, white and sweet categories.
Michelle Chan, Christie’s Head of Wine in Asia Pacific, identifies Bordeaux’s unique geographical location situated between the Atlantic Ocean and the Gironde estuary and its diversity of soils as key factors behind its acclaimed output. She adds that the region’s long history of winemaking expertise has resulted in the development of specific winemaking techniques, such as blending multiple grape varieties to create complex and balanced wines.
Divide and conquer
Bordeaux is positioned at the centre of the confluence of the Dordogne and Garonne rivers, which flow into the Gironde, and Chan stresses that understanding the difference between the ‘Left Bank’ and ‘Right Bank’ of Bordeaux is essential in grasping the region’s varied wine offerings. The area to the west, on the left bank of the Garonne, and between the Garonne and the Dordogne, “is famous for its powerful and structured red wines, predominantly made from Cabernet Sauvignon. Notable appellations include Médoc, Graves and Pessac-Léognan. These wines are full-bodied with firm tannins, ideal for long-term ageing,” she says.
East of the Dordogne is the Right Bank “renowned for its Merlot-based blends, which are typically more approachable and supple when young. The most prominent appellations are Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, producing rich, opulent wines with velvety tannins and exceptional balance.”
Chan also notes that the region produces outstanding white wines and is hailed for its sweet wines.
Pick of the best
Such is the quality of wines the region has to offer, Chan finds it difficult to choose a favourite.
First on her list is Château Latour à Pomerol 1961. “This opulent and refined Merlot-based wine from Pomerol has enticing aromas of black cherries, truffles and hints of tobacco. The palate displays a velvety texture with well-integrated tannins and flavours of ripe dark fruits, earth and sweet spices.”
Next is Château Mouton Rothschild 1945 of which she says: “This iconic vintage features a complex and captivating bouquet of cassis, pencil shavings and cedarwood. The rich and full-bodied palate showcases layers of dark fruit, leather and tobacco, complemented by a firm tannic structure and exceptional balance.”
She also adores large-format Bordeaux wines and highlights the magnums of Le Pin 1982 – expressions of lush, seductive character and incredible depth – auctioned by Christie’s in Hong Kong in May. For sweet wines, she plumps for Château d’Yquem 1967. “This golden-hued sweet wine, made from a blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes, has an incredibly complex nose with aromas of honey, apricots, candied orange peel and botrytis spice.”
Collectors’ tips
For those beginning a Bordeaux wine collection, Chan stresses it is essential to educate oneself on the various appellations, châteaux and vintages. Her recommended vintages are 1945, 1947, 1949, 1959, 1961, 1982, 1989, 1990, 1996, 2000, 2005, 2009, 2010 and 2015.
A Fine Romance: Candles and wine come hand in hand for Ian Carroll through his two successful shops in Central
Ian Carroll laughs when asked about the similarities between his two seemingly unrelated but highly successful enterprises – Carroll&Chan, a purveyor of candles, and Soho Wines & Spirits. After some reflection, he says: “Candles and wine – romance, what else?”
In reality, there were different reasons for the inception of these companies. Having arrived in Hong Kong in 1999 with his wife, Liana, who was posted to the territory with the European Union diplomatic mission, Carroll needed a visa to extend his stay and so decided to set up a business. His wife had noticed there were few places to buy candles and suggested opening a candle shop. The Candle Company was launched in Central in 2002.
Carroll had already succeeded in various entrepreneurial ventures. Born in Dublin, the amiable Irishman’s early business activities involved buying and selling various goods. During a buying trip to Hong Kong in the mid-’80s, he was blown away by the dizzying spectacle of traders and hawkers in Nathan Road selling watches and myriad electronic products and knew one day he would return.
Booking ahead
His first major business success came during his time in Brussels, where Liana worked at the European Commission. Establishing one of the first online hotel reservation websites, he benefitted immensely from first-mover advantage and an element of good fortune.
Speaking from the Carroll&Chan candle store in Lyndhurst Terrace, he says, “I was lucky because I got an agreement with a couple of people in big hotel groups, and one of them had a hotel in Havana. Americans could not book Cuban hotels in America at the time, and because my website was European, I used to get Americans booking trips to Havana regularly.”
He also struck gold with a hotel on the top of Machu Picchu.
Perseverance pays
He sold this business after moving to Hong Kong. The candle shop also proved a huge success almost from the outset, though it was not without its early teething problem. Initially, it was challenging to get anyone to supply to his embryonic enterprise.
Using a phone book, he literally turned up at companies in Kowloon and the New Territories that claimed to be candle manufacturers. No one wanted to know when they discovered he was selling the candles for the Hong Kong market. Then, finally, one supplier asked him if he was selling to the US market. “I said yes. They said – come in!” he recounts.
Carroll later owned up to the lie, but the supplier still agreed to honour the deal and a 20-foot container lorry soon arrived outside the store’s original Lyndhurst Terrace address. Having no staff at the time, he started unloading the 100 boxes from the container himself whereupon the police showed up and told him to remove the vehicle as it was obstructing the street. The lorry driver drove off and they ended up unloading the candles at a factory in the New Territories – not exactly the most convenient location for his fledgling shop.
Hive of activity
Business boomed during the store’s first Christmas and as the years passed, he noticed customers were increasingly asking about the adverse effects of burning paraffin. In 2017, he decided to create his own candle brand, Carroll&Chan, with a focus on natural and environmentally friendly products.
Now all his candles are made from beeswax. “Beeswax is the only wax that is not actually made in a factory,” he says. “It is not processed; it is made by bees in the beehive. The beeswax is melted and made into a candle.
“It is a natural product; it does not create soot when it burns. It burns brighter because it has a higher melting point, and because of the structure of the wax it burns longer, too.”
Carroll enjoys educating people about environmental matters and highlights the fact that his fragrances are approved by the International Fragrance Association.
He stresses how harmful other candles made in factories are to the environment: “The forests of Malaysia or the jungles of South America are burned down to grow oil palm trees or grow soy beans. For soy wax candles, the beans are taken to factories and mixed with chemicals and made into wax.”
Asia affinity
All of Carroll’s candles and most of his other products are made in a small workshop in Kwai Fong, though some are produced in the Netherlands for the European market.
Carroll&Chan has a shop in Amsterdam and there are plans to expand to the China and US markets. Carroll&Chan fragrances and reed diffusers are inspired by the scents of Asia. The reeds are made from rattan, a natural product, and the oil flows up via the reeds and diffuses into the air. “They offer a flame-free experience of lemon grass or lavender or whatever scent you want,” he says.
“Another important thing about the brand is that it is an Asian brand and inspired by Asia. Asia is home to so many beautifully fragrant flowers and spices.”
The ‘Chan’ part of the brand name comes from the birth surnames of the Carrolls’ two children, who were adopted in Hong Kong.
He is particularly fond of the scent of sampaguita, the national flower of the Philippines. “It is a form of jasmine and produces an amazing smell,” he notes.
Another favourite flower is white michelia, a type of magnolia cultivated in Southeast Asia. “I thought that would be a fantastic scent and we should start it, so I got a French perfume company to take that flower and develop a fragrance. It is very popular.”
Wine growth
Carroll’s wine business, which also dates back to 2002, grew out of a grocery store that had formed part of a deal to buy out a candle company in Staunton Street. Initially, he wanted to dispense with the grocery store but saw the opportunity to develop a wine business when he noticed customers were coming in for the wine.
At the time there were few wine merchants in Hong Kong and it was not considered an attractive business. “It wasn’t difficult, but there was licensing and all sorts of paperwork required,” he says.
In 2008, the government abolished the duty on imported liquor with an alcohol content under 30%. “So suddenly you could import wine, Martini [Bianco and Rosso], Baileys [Irish Cream]and beer without any paperwork. All you needed was an invoice. Everybody, I think, in Hong Kong who went to Spain, Italy or Portugal became a wine importer,” he recalls.
Running two successful enterprises is time-consuming, so Carroll recently brought in a local business partner, who mostly handles the wine store. Soho Wines & Spirits is handily located near the Central-Mid-levels escalator and stocks a carefully curated selection of wine. He does not claim to be a wine expert – at first he imported wines that were inappropriate for the Hong Kong market. Now he has the good judgment to let others make the decisions.
Photographer: Jack Law Art Direction: Joseff Musa Fashion Stylist: Jhoshwa Ledesma Videographer: Jack Fontanilla Hair & Make Up: Heti Tsang Venue: Carroll&Chan
Hailing The Cab: The big, bold style of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has gripped the wine world
Cabernet is the variety that put California on the international wine map. It is also the single most widely planted wine grape in Napa Valley and, indeed, around the world. There are more than 450 wineries in Napa, a valley that is 30 miles (48km) long and five miles (8km) across at its widest point.
But Cab is also a team player. It is the lead grape in nearly all Bordeaux-style blends from Napa. And as long as 75% of the grapes in the bottle are Cabernet Sauvignon the wine label may read Cabernet, although many Napa vintners prefer to label a Bordeaux blend as a ‘Meritage’ or a red blend. At last month’s Collective Napa Valley Together Again Weekend, an auction that raised US$3.8 million (HK$29.8 million) for local charities, I visited one of Napa’s noted wineries, Alpha Omega, for an al-fresco lunch hosted by owners Robin and Michelle Baggett.
Alpha Omega appetite
The scenic winery is located in the prime Rutherford sub-appellation of the larger Napa AVA (American Viticultural Area) and was founded by the Baggetts in 2006.
Highlighting Alpha Omega’s barrel during fermentation program, winemaker Matt Brain during lunch uncorked the 2018 ERA Barrel Select Reserve, a limited production of 900 cases. We also savoured the 2012 AOX Barrel Select, another limited-production wine available through the winery’s allocation list. “These are barrels that speak to me,” notes Brain. Expressing remarkable texture and density, the AOX was a delicious pairing with the dessert of rich, dense chocolate block cake.Alpha Omega has made its mark with Cabernets that reflect Napa’s powerful, full-fruit style. Brain is bringing his own touch, though. “Definitely I want to continue the fantastic wines that put us on the map, but the difference is to subtly start to layer in my own personal beliefs, to bring in a little bit more balance, more complexity of the vineyard,” he says.
To that extent, he brings what he calls multiple picks and intentionally assigned cooperage. “I’ve actually been going to vineyards and doing two picks [of grapes] – one smaller, just a little bit earlier in season, and blending it back for a little bit of herb, spices and terroir expression to the wine.” He works closely with individual coopers for custom-made French oak barrels to help enhance the wine’s flavour profile. “If you play in the playground of ripe Napa Cabs, you run the risk of losing individuality,” he opines.
Brain is a big proponent of barrel fermentation in a warm room. “It speeds up the fermentation process and we get really good concentration,” he says.
Winemakers for a day
Before lunch, Brain led a blending session in the winery for a small group, offering the barrel samples of 2022 Cabernets from four different vineyards: two wines with tension and complexity, and two that were hedonistic and rich. While a few of the novice winemakers gravitated towards the leaner wines, most went for the riper, richer rewards reaped from Tench vineyard on Atlas Peak. Brain also offered Malbec and Petit Verdot for blending “to see how blenders shaped the Cabernet”.
As for the Omega Alpha 2022 Cabernet, which made the top 10 list of lots at the weekend’s barrel auction, Brain states: “It’s a great vintage – approachable and lighter in tannins.”
Beautiful Burgundy: Showing both complexity and finesse, Bourgogne wines are among the world’s most coveted
Burgundy is one of the most prosperous regions of France, rich in culture, history and gastronomical delights. It is home to world-renowned wines that have soared in price and desirability over recent decades and particularly in the past two years. Pinot Noir (for reds) and Chardonnay (for whites) are the main grape varieties, though others are permitted.
The Bourgogne area comprises a patchwork quilt of myriad different terroirs, appellations and styles. According to George Lacey, Director and Head of Wine at Sotheby’s, Asia, this complexity previously put off consumers whose drinking experiences could be so variable from one producer or village to the next – but times have changed. “Collectors turned to Burgundy seeking elegance, finesse, a sense of individuality and precision, and discovered that the region could provide ethereal wines that show the epitome of these characteristics in spades,” he says.
Scarcity value
The vast range of styles and expressions is down to the great number of small, family-owned domaines, producing microscopic quantities of wine from very low-yielding vines.
As Lacey explains, this small supply then drives up the scarcity value of its wines and has caused a rapid ascent in prices of Burgundy wine. He notes: “As with so many luxury commodities, the harder Burgundy has become to find, the more people want to find it!”
Sense of place
Lacey says Burgundy has been at the forefront of winemaking innovation and experimentation and historic producers are located almost side by side with some of today’s most boundary-pushing, next-generation experimental vignerons. He believes Burgundy has the perfect climatic conditions for the ‘capricious’ Pinot Noir grape to flourish. Chardonnay, on the other hand, is much easier to grow. Expressing itself in an enormous range of styles, this varietal is an incredible vector for the romantic notion of ‘terroir’, or a ‘sense of place’.
Fantastic individuality
Picking a favourite wine is almost impossible for Lacey. “To generalise, the reds are often characterised by beautifully bright, fresh red fruit and floral aromas becoming more savoury as they age with softer, dried petal and ‘sousbois’ [undergrowth] flavours coming to the fore. For the whites, Chardonnay expresses a huge variety of styles within the region from rich, unctuous, nutty and buttery Meursault to steely, mineral and linear Chablis, and everything in between,” he says
“If I had to choose a favourite, then for whites it would be majestic examples of mature 20-year-plus Raveneau Les Clos or Coche-Dury’s Meursault – some of the greatest examples of Chardonnay in the world. For reds, it would have to be the great Musigny vineyard from either Domaine Mugnier or Leroy. These encounters are becoming ever rarer, but I have had some of my most magical drinking experiences with them – not just for Burgundy but any wine worldwide.”
Compelling paradox
“For me, what makes the very best Burgundy so magical is their ability to become what we call ‘paradox wines’,” says Lacey. “They have an ability to express both weightlessness and intensity, power and elegance, complexity and finesse.”
The Must-try Ready-to-Serve Cocktails to Get the Party Started
Almost everyone loves a good cocktail but not everyone has mastered the art of mixing drinks in a way that tastes perfect as though they were made by some skilled bartender. That is where pre-mixed beverages that only require you to add your desired amount of ice come to play. Check out these must-try beginner-friendly drinks to get the party going or simply sip along with your dinner at home.
Exuding a refreshing feeling in every sip, the Chandon Garden Spritz tastes fruity with the cocktail being made from the Chandon Argentina 2014 Brut that won the Best Argentine Sparkling Wine award at the 2020 Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships and an orange liqueur that consists of extracts from orange peels, herbs and some special spices that give the drink its natural flavours. The perfect blending of flavours that was perfected over more than 60 trials, in addition to its organically-sourced ingredients, makes the wine-based cocktail an absolute bliss. It can be bought from select retailers in Hong Kong and the prices vary.
Next, there is the Chateau Highball Classic Cocktail Range. Following its popularity in Italy, the Chateau Highball, newly launched in Hong Kong, is sure to win the taste buds and the heart of partygoers and hosts by making it easy to relish cocktails that taste like they were prepared at a top-class bar. The four offerings in the collection include Gin & Tonic, Vodka Soda, Whisky Soda and Tequila Soda. The highlight among the four is the Gin & Tonic, which was prepared by mixing London Dry Gin with house-made stevia tonic water boasting comparatively lesser sugar content than most other tonic waters. Each bottle can serve up to six glasses and costs HK$380.
Also making it to the list of best ready-made cocktails are the ones from Bacardi, a brand that has become synonymous with rum so who better to trust than this Cuban drink company if you want to sip on some rum-based cocktail? Luckily, the brand offers a variety of popular and famously-enjoyed cocktail choices like Pina Colada, Mojito and Rum Punch that are available as both ready-to-drink cocktails in cans and read-to-serve versions in bottles. These pre-made cocktails for parties are enriched with fruity flavours that feel pleasant with each gulp while also transcending you on to a vacation in the Caribbean Islands.
Regardless of all these aforementioned beverages, if you find mixing your own cocktails to be more fun, then you can always find a list of DIY cocktail recipes on Barcadi’s official site which will help you make the tastiest tipsy tipples. Simultaneously, those who prefer whisky cocktails can rely on Johnnie Walker’s range of recipes and Smirnoff for some vodka-infused cocktails.
The Best Food and Wine Pairings: Which wine goes well with which dish?
Both chefs and food lovers would agree that a dish must be relished and people should be able to appreciate the food’s different flavours, and wines have often been a trusted way to bring out a dish’s optimal taste. Case in point, many tasting menus created by fine dining restaurants will serve a glass of white or red that would complement the dish on the plate.
While you can pair food with a drink from your personal wine collection or the one you newly bought from the store, some of these connoisseur-picked food and wine combinations will certainly impress your taste buds.
Peking Duck and Pinot Noir
Food enthusiasts have different opinions when picking a wine bottle that matches perfectly with this popular Chinese dish, but the most common pick has always been Pinot Noir. This is because Peking Ducks have a rich salty and savoury taste to them due to the hoisin sauce that is added to the crispy duck meat. So, a wine like Pinot Noir which has a relatively high amount of acidity to it balances out the roasted duck’s intense flavours, making this one of the most favoured food and wine combinations.
Shellfish and Japanese Koshu Wine
This wine variety that originates from Japan has subtle notes of fruitiness allowing people to feel the refreshing taste of white grapes and apples in each sip with the Koshu wine being produced at a specific altitude and temperature. Such flavours, in combination with its low acidity, make this white wine variety a perfect drink to pair with shellfish dishes, which are often cooked with a thick layer of butter, as the food and the wine balance each other out. To enjoy the best of this wine pairing, you may want to try the Michelin-starred restaurant Arcane’s Lightly Cured Hokkaido Scallops with a glass of the Grace Wine Gris de Koshu 2021 which Chef Shane Osborn has featured in Arcane’s limited-edition menu in collaboration with CulinArt 1862 that is exclusively only available on the 17th and 18th of May.
Raclette and Burgundy Chardonnay
Another food and wine pairing that has been recommended by top chefs for the light texture of the wine to balance out the heaviness of the dish is the Raclette paired with a glass or more of Burgundy Chardonnay. For those unfamiliar, the Raclette is a classic French dish that is made by melting the Raclette cheese and eaten in combination with boiled potatoes, meat, pickles and spices. With the dish obviously being packed with calories and rich in flavours, a French wine like Bourgogne blanc has citrus notes and a subtle saltiness that make it go well with something heavy like a traditional Raclette.
Wagyu Steak and Rioja Red Wine
Red wines have often been voted as the best wine to be paired with steaks, and apparently, there is a scientific reason for it. Red wines have a substance called tannins, particularly strong in the younger wines, which has a molecular structure that helps to melt fats, thus when paired with a dish like steak, it brings out the taste to the fullest by cutting into this thick layer of meat. True to this technique is Chef Stanley Wong’s recommended pairing – Binchotan-Grilled Australian Wagyu Striploin with Finca La Emperatriz Las Cenizas 2018 which can also be enjoyed at CulinArt 1862’s six-course tasting menu that has been created alongside Arcane.
Alsace Class: Great whites and late-blooming sweet wines blaze a trail through the French region
Alsace in northeastern France has been officially recognised as an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) wine region since 1962. It is home to the famous 170km Alsace Wine Route, a tourist hotspot that winds its way through the Vosges foothills and the Rhine plain, past colourful towns and villages and vineyards of Riesling and Gerwürztraminer. Alsace is noted for its dry and aromatic white wines, with these two grapes yielding many of its best.
Tristan Pommier, an expert sommelier who curates Clarence’s wine program, a restaurant in Central, says. “Alsace boasts a very dynamic and thriving wine scene that is renowned for its wide range of grape varietals, grand cru wines and terroir expressions,” he says.
Pommier spotlights several young Alsace winemakers who are now making their mark, in addition to established winemaking families with a long history in the region. The latter, including Zind Humbrecht, Valentin Zusslin and Josmeyer, can be found on Clarence’s wine list. Up-and-coming estates La Rogerie and La Grange de l’Oncle Charles are definitely worth a try and can also be poured at the restaurant.
Grand Cru diversity
Pommier believes Alsace has become one of the key winemaking regions in France due to its diverse array of grand cru wines. There are 51 vineyards classified as grand crus for their quality terroir and winemaking.
“In addition, Alsace offers a range of winemaking styles, from traditional to biodynamic, which allows for a wide variety of flavour profiles and wine types,” notes Pommier.
The dessert wines of Alsace, particularly the sweet ‘Vendange tardive’ or late-harvest wines, are highly regarded by connoisseurs. “One of the most unique aspects of Alsace’s winemaking industry is its production of sweet wines,” concurs Pommier. “Due to the semi-continental climate and great variety of soil types in Alsace, these wines have the remarkable ability to age gracefully over time, often improving in flavour and complexity as they mature.”
Youthful sensitivity
Clarence recently held a promotion of the region’s delights. “We thought it would be interesting to showcase the talents of promising young winemakers, such as the owners of La Grange de l’Oncle Charles, a couple who manage a 5.5-hectare vineyard that is co-planted with old, middle-aged and young vines that are regularly replaced to ensure they thrive in a diverse range of soils,” says Pommier.
Pommier also suggests why the wine is so appealing. “The winemakers take a sensitive approach to their craft, carefully considering the fruits, vines and ecosystem to produce elegant wines that possess their own unique subtle touch,” he says.
The tastes and aromas of these wines leave their mark: “One example is La Grange de l’Oncle Charles Mille Lieux, which is a blend of all 13 white grape varieties grown on various soils at the Domaine. After being fermented and aged for one year in barrels on lees, this wine is characterised by its lovely ripe stone fruit aromas, intense concentration and acidity, and a touch of salinity at the end of the palate.”
English Sparkling Wine – Global warming seals sparkler’s Fate
English sparkling wine is now viewed so favourably in wine circles that major wine houses have been gobbling up land in South East England to get in on the act. The country’s homegrown bubbly has burgeoned in a sparkling show of strength linked in part to that very English topic of the weather.
Pommery was the first French Champagne to put the wheels in motion and build an English sparkling wine brand, and others are set to follow suit, according to Jo Smith, brand manager of Wine Garden of England, an organisation dedicated to promoting wines made in Kent.
Climate change is having profound effects on winemaking in the region. “The climate has warmed up, and Kent is the warmest and driest part of the UK, which makes it easier to ripen the grape varieties needed for fine wines,” says Smith. “It is only in the last 15 years that we have been able to achieve the sugar levels in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the three grape varieties that are used to make Champagne and English sparkling wine.
” With Kent now basking in a similar climate that Champagne had 30 years ago, the French houses are seeking to put roots in the English county. “Some say that Champagne is now too hot to grow the traditional grape varieties,” she notes.
Smith also believes southeast England has become attractive for winemaking over recent years because skills on the ground have improved. “Many of our winemakers have gained experience in more established wine regions of the world, and then come back to study at Plumpton College, which is the only English-speaking viticultural university in Europe. It is well known for producing outstanding winemakers,” she says.
She also points out that the soil in Kent is the same as in Champagne, sharing the band of chalk that extends from France under the English Channel and into the South of England.
Blanc de Blancs breakthrough
This bubbly has been winning rave reviews over recent years, and its big breakthrough moment was undoubtedly when Ridgeview’s 2006 Blanc de Blancs clinched the Decanter International Trophy for sparkling wine. Mardi Roberts of Ridgeview said the Royal Opera House erupted like a home football ground that evening and the award “kicked off our international export was the first time this has ever been awarded to a wine other than Champagne.”
Smell of Success
Its reputation for fine aromas has also soared. “In our cool climate, the fruit ripens slowly, developing all the flavour complexities that are needed to make a fine sparkling wine,” says Smith. “We also use the same winemaking method as Champagne, which means that the second fermentation that creates the fizz, takes place in the bottle, and the wine sits in the bottle with the yeast for a few years to develop the lovely biscuit and brioche aroma that you also get in Champagne.”
But there are differences to traditional Champagne. “It has a marvellous backbone of acidity that gives it a refreshing ‘zing’ that has become a trademark of our wines,” she adds.
(Text: Neil Dolby)
Blanc-Buster: UK-sourced Sauvignon Blanc sweetens the senses
Upon returning to the UK from Hong Kong, Fiona Shiner surprised many by opting out of her legal career in favour of a risky winemaking venture in the Cotswolds, a picturesque part of southwest England. More boldly still, she later opted to nurture Sauvignon Blanc, a grape varietal with little or no record of being successfully grown in the area.
It was a gamble that paid off. Indeed, her 2021 Sauvignon Blanc took both the highest score and the highest award in the Unoaked category at the most recent Global Sauvignon Blanc Masters event.
“News of the award triggered an amazing amount of interest in the wine. After two of the busiest weeks in our history, we have sold out of the 2021 vintage entirely,” says Shiner.
After leaving Hong Kong, she and her family settled in Woodchester Valley, an area of outstanding natural beauty set on steep limestone slopes. As a wine lover, she was more than aware that England was surprising many with its world-class sparkling wines and Bacchus was beginning to make a reputation for producing quality still-white wines. She wondered if the local land – poor grade arable – would support her own oenophile aspirations.
After conducting research into the area’s wine-making heritage, she discovered it had been home to vineyards as far back as the time of the Domesday Book (circa 1085 AD). As a result, the temptation for her to create a new vineyard far outweighed the lure of a return to the law and, so, she planted her first acre in 2007.
On the basis of her initial plantings in 2007- 2013, she quickly established that her vineyards were capable of producing good quality wine. In 2015, she then took the big plunge and planted 2,000 Sauvignon Blanc vines, a grape variety she was a particular fan of.
“The risk was that England is a very cool climate in viticulture terms and Sauvignon Blanc ripens later than a number of varietals, such as Bacchus, that we use for our still wines, so would it ripen fully in England?” says Shiner.
As it turned out, 2021 brought particular challenges. While the summer temperature was more or less average for England, heavy rain was widespread although Woodchester Valley vineyard escaped the worst. A warm, sunny spell throughout September and October, however, pretty much saved the day.
Outlining what she sees as underpinning her success, she says: “Sauvignon Blanc is an expressive variety which manifests itself in different ways. Our wine expresses classic cool climate Sauvignon Blanc aromas and flavours. I also believe the limestone soils bring a vibrancy to the wine and add a bright acidity.”
For the 2021 vintage, the best description almost certainly came courtesy of the Global Sauvignon Blanc Masters judges. Summing up the wine, they concluded: “It starts with an intense gooseberry nose, building up to reveal undertones of ripe lemon. On the palate, there is a bright, taut acidity and a juicy mouthfeel. Very well-balanced, there’s just a hint of sweetness on the finish, which is long and textured. A very engaging wine and perfect for matching with asparagus or goat’s cheese.”
