It’s pretty much an open secret that for the last two years, Burgundy has been on a path of steady growth in the international wine markets. Yet, not all parts of this premium winemaking region have shared the same good fortune, with some sub-regions being brought low by a series of untoward weather events – chiefly frost- and hail-related – that have cut their expected harvests by upwards of 30 percent in both 2016 and 2017.
Now, though, it seems as if the sun has broken through the clouds for at least one of Bourgogne’s sub-regions – Chablis. The northernmost territory within Burgundy’s five winemaking areas and home to the purest Chardonnay grapes, Chablis’ vineyards have an output of 40 million bottles per annum, representing 33 percent of the volume of white wines produced in the wider Burgundy region every year.
With 2018 having proved unexpectedly clement, at least in Chablis, local winemakers are already discreetly speaking of the “best vintage in 20 years”. Less circumspect is Louis Moreau, proprietor of Domaine Louis Moreau, a 50- hectare estate in the heart of the region. Happy to put his optimism on the record, he says: “While we were a little uncertain after the drought in early summer, ultimately, the vineyard gave us a real gift after two difficult years…”
And, when the vineyards in this part of the world decide to give, they give very generously. Quite magnificent in its beneficence, when the unique qualities of its terroir properly align, something truly magical takes place.
As it’s notably cooler than other parts of Burgundy, Chablis grapes are seldom overripe. This, in harmony with the signature minerality of the region’s subsoil, has resulted in just about the ideal environment for propagating the perfect chardonnay grape, the element that makes all four Chablis appellations – Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru – so universally admired, and the perfect pairing with many of the world’s favourite foods. Stay tuned for our guide to the perfect food-wine pairings for these delicious vintages…
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay