Clarence has become a new culinary beacon under the guidance of Executive Chef Christophe Schmitt, a fresh arrival from acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants in France. As he unveils his inaugural dinner menu, the excitement is palpable. DeSchmitt seems utterly thrilled to dive into the vibrant melting pot that is Hong Kong. “My journey in Asia is not just a professional shift; it’s about rediscovering my love for food through fresh perspectives,” he shares.
With chic décor combined with 25th-floor views that dazzle over bustling streets, the atmosphere removes any notion of pretentiousness while maintaining a refined aura. “It’s essential to create a space that feels both inviting and sophisticated,” notes the chef. And this restaurant achieves just that.
Dinner opens with the beef tartare served in bone marrow topped with a side of baguette toast. This dish is a jazz concert of textures and flavours, where the robust richness of the marrow encounters the delicate nuances of tender raw beef, all while a crispy crostini adds a relay of crunch. Schmitt remarks: “I wanted to modernise classic dishes. This tartare honours French traditions but introduces different textures for a surprising and fresh experience.”
Should you be seeking meat-less delight, look no further than beetroot and fresh goat cheese ravioli, a play of sweetness enveloped in divine pasta. The accompanying beetroot juice lends a colourful vibrance while ginger and lime pull everything into balance, revealing a dish that is as beautiful as it is delicious. Schmitt’s personal favourites infiltrate the menu; this ravioli harkens back to his admiration for artisanal goat’s cheese discovered in the South of France.
For those who find joy in the ocean’s gifts, smoked salmon with potato waffle dances over the palate, and BBQ octopus with potato foam delivers succulent tenderness that imparts warmth and satisfaction without crossing into heaviness. Clarence encourages patrons to embrace the camaraderie of shared dining; each dish has been crafted not only to tantalise the senses but also to foster moments of togetherness – the intent is for diners to savour flavours while creating memories alongside family and friends.
Transitioning into mains, beef fillet and foie gras pithivier stands as a beacon of indulgence. The dish teams luxurious beef and foie gras encased in flaky pastry with a truffle vinaigrette salad. It’s a decadent juxtaposition of textures designed to transcend through freshness. Schmitt reflects on this creation, noting the artistry of the pastry craft: “Each element must blend into a harmonious experience.”
Seafood aficionados will rejoice in skate wing cooked on the bone, where brown butter and spices add a depth that feels comforting. Paired with an endive and Comté salad, the freshness of the greens cuts through the richness of the fish – a perfect dance of flavours with each bite yielding a new sensory revelation.
End your meal with the chef’s playful take on dessert. Croffle with salted caramel and Normandy milk ice cream steals the show, marrying the crispy delights of croissant-cum-waffle into one daring vessel of sweetness. And if your heart longs for warmth, hot chocolate moelleux, with its molten chocolate centre served with sumptuous ice cream, promises sweet surrender.
Beyond the dishes lies a dining philosophy that emphasises seasonality and local ingredients, and Schmitt passionately invokes the necessity of this connection. The use of Japanese sea urchin, for instance, reflects his adaptability to local produce while maintaining the finesse of his French roots. “This balance highlights how local Asian ingredients can reinvent classic dishes,” he explains.
Clarence’s carefully curated and affordably priced dinner menu offers an exceptional experience, reinforcing the new chef’s vision of a dining journey where every detail has been examined.
True enough, Clarence is a testament to the magic unleashed when French tradition interlaces with the vibrant essence of Asia. Bon appétit!
Clarence, 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong
Photos: Clarence Video: Jack Fontanilla