Women’s suits have made a comeback on the high-fashion catwalks for Spring-Summer 2022, which is good news for the corporate crowd and local tailors. Borrowing from men’s bespoke but swapping rigid masculinity for feminine versatility and flair, women’s made-to-measure clothing merges comfort and sophistication, and instills a sense of confidence that only a perfect fit can.
A Look Back
The power suit rose to fashion prominence in the ’60s and ’70s as a symbol of women’s liberation, blurring outdated gender-appropriate dressing perceptions. Earlier breakthroughs included Chanel’s ’20s suit collection, Yves Saint Laurent’s 1966 Le Smoking tuxedo, and the attire choices of iconic figures such as Sarah Bernhardt and Katharine Hepburn.
Androgynous styling continued in recent decades, ushering an empowering reflection and sartorial expression of the self. Enter the modern-day women’s power suit, a no-holds-barred creation marked by the likes of tailored wrap-over jackets, padded shoulders, shawl lapels and decorative buttons; trouser suits in bright colours and form-fitting cuts; and edgier offerings like oversized blazers worn over miniskirts and evening tuxedos.
It’s time to put that unflattering ready-made suit back on the rack and step out in style in a custom-made ensemble from one of the city’s new generation of formidable tailors.
The Perfect Fit
Hong Kong has a long history in tailoring, although the trade has mostly been dedicated to men, with the exception of qipao and wedding gowns. The growing number of female executives and CEOs, though, has sprouted a surge in demand for women’s tailoring.
“There are so many women in Hong Kong who are expected to dress formally for work but have very limited choices available,” explains Frederieke van Doorn, founder of Frey. “After being in the industry of men’s tailoring, the differences in offerings between the two markets became clear, and it was time to create a brand that offered women the same level of luxury tailoring that men have.” Having tailored for the city’s influential women such as Veronica Lam, Esther Sham and former Miss Hong Kong’s Grace Chan, Frey has become well known for its exquisite craftsmanship, luxurious fabrics and a wide variety of designs, colours, patterns and styles that appeal to the dynamic lifestyle of the modern woman.
Having had a similar realisation, Jasmin Pang started her own women’s tailoring business, JSMP, after working in the corporate world for more than a decade. She expresses her frustration in finding quality women’s formal wear that would fit different body shapes, sizes and styles. “Most [men’s tailors] are not familiar with the different cuts and styles that women prefer,” she says, “Some clients look for statement pieces that let them stand out from the crowd while others prefer a chic, timeless design that they can wear every day.” It was her sympathetic realisation for the needs of women in Hong Kong that led to her success in the business, crafting bespoke suits some of the city’s feminine elites likes Vanessa Cheung, Gigi Chao, and Veronica Li.
Tailored to Please
A bespoke piece goes beyond just style, however. It must fit a woman’s precise measurements and complement her unique silhouette while allowing her to be comfortable and confident in what she wears. This is where a skilled tailor steps in, tape measure and chalk in hand.
Third-generation scion of a veteran Hong Kong tailor, Hayman Chan brings more than half a century of experience to the founding of his eponymous brand, also bringing with him a loyal clientele of CEOs like Patrick Kwok, other prominent horse trainers like former champion jockey Tony Cruz. Boasting a large selection of the most sought-after fabrics for each season, and having complete control of the process from measurement to delivery, his atelier’s work is top-notch.
“The basics come through paper patterns and using tape measure and chalk, the traditional tools of the trade,” explains Chan. “At the end of the day, tailoring is all about being yourself and having the freedom to express that without being limited by gender.”
Assembled Ensemble
Let’s be frank. Women’s silhouettes can be tricky to work with, and it’s important for a female client to be seen, heard and understood when it comes to catering to their body shape, lifestyle needs and emotional relationship with clothing. It becomes the true test of a tailor’s skill.
Men tend to have a more uniform approach to suit tailoring, and their style preferences are typically consistent, while women are more nuanced as they lean towards artistic sartorial looks. And these may be limited by materials available in a trade that has traditionally catered to men.
Fortunately, the range of women’s fabrics, colours and construction of canvases has grown in response to the upsurge in female clientele. From sumptuous cotton sourced from Italian mills to fine silk from China and luxuriously soft cashmere and wool from Piacenza, women can now select from the world’s best natural materials as if they were queens – yet the price for such lavishness is affordable to non-royals. For instance, a made-to-measure jacket and trousers set by Frey starts from HK$5,460, while a statement wool jacket at JSMP will cost upwards of HK$6,000. Bespoke wear from Hayman Chan can total at HK$30,000 and above.
Yes, top-notch tailoring will have more digits on its price tag than buttons on a suit, but it is not outlandish. A custom-made wardrobe reflects the tailor’s knowledge, experience, expertise and quality of craftsmanship. They can deftly steer you in the right direction when your judgment is faulty and provide you peace of mind at each step. And the result is often an empowering one – something that you can take out of the wardrobe and wear with confidence for years to come.