Ever heard of Český Krumlov? Chances are, the answer is no. Indeed, this hard-to-pronounce town in the Czech Republic often plays second (or even third or fourth) fiddle to the far-more-high-profile Prague. Should it ever come up in conversation, though, it’s actually pronounced “chess-key crum-loff” and it’s a picturesque little village lying just two hours drive south from the capital, all nestled within the winding curves of the Vlatava River.
So just what is so special about this apparently obscure destination? Well, Český Krumlov is pretty much as close to the perfect example of an unspoilt medieval Czech town as you are likely to find. In fact, as you meander through the cobblestone streets of this UNESCO World Heritage-blessed locale, you could be forgiven for thinking you had been transported back in time some 500 years…
It is this antique appeal that has, over recent years, come to fascinate a whole new generation of travellers. In particular, there has been a spike in visitor numbers from China, Japan and South Korea, with many having first caught sight of it in popular, locally-filmed TV series. While many such tourists see Český Krumlov as meriting no more than a quick day trip, however, by far the best way to experience the full magnificence of this medieval town is to ensure you factor in at least one overnight stay.
First settled in 1253 AD, in many ways, the little-known Ceský Krumlov is the crowning jewel of Southern Bohemia, with its picture-perfect setting increasingly attracting tourists and photographers from around the world. As the seat of the once all-powerful Rožmberk family throughout the 14th to 16th centuries, it was synonymous with great wealth – a legacy that bequeathed it the array of stunning medieval and Renaissance architecture that still characterises the town to this day. Keen to rival the glories of the Czech court, the Rožmberks were intent on outdoing Prague in terms of urban magnificence, and it shows.
It was in the mid-1300s that the family first made the town the seat of their power, with the arrangement persisting until 1611, the year the last-known Rožmberk went to meet their maker. Some 500 years on, the five-petalled rose of the family crest is still visible on many of the local landmarks. They were replaced as Český Krumlov’s patrons by another powerful local family – the Eggenbergs – who left their own mark on the town’s sturdy castle, while also founding a brewery that remains active to this day. In 1719 the Eggenbergs went the way of the Rožmberks and were themselves supplanted by the Schwarzenbergs, a family, whose influence, at the very least, rivaled that of its two predecessors.
Weathering all of these changes, Český Krumlov emerged as a key craft and trade hub. As the wealth of its local merchants soared, they spent lavishly and the construction and refurbishment of many of the grand residences that still line its narrow streets today, with many featuring the incredible carved and painted ceilings that were favoured by the well-to-do of the time. Walking along its meandering cobblestone paths, meanwhile, you’ll also see fine examples of medieval Gothic arches and exquisite Renaissance sgratto – layers of painted stucco – decorating many of the local buildings.
Český Krumlov’s principal draw, however, is undoubtedly the magnificent castle that overlooks the town and the Vlatava River. Constructed by the Rožmberks in 1240 as part of their ongoing bid to outshine Prague, countless renovations across intervening centuries, many of them the work of successive dynasties, have seen it come to encompass a broad range of architectural styles, including Gothic, High Gothic and Renaissance, while its tower, arguably its most iconic feature, is distinctly Baroque. Those travellers robust enough to negotiate their way up the tower’s 162 steps, meanwhile, will be rewarded with some of the most stunning 360-degree views of the town proper, making such a climb a must for Instagram aficionados.
The castle also boasts beautifully landscaped formal gardens, an estate that once hosted the Schwarzenbergs’ riding school and is still the site of a Baroque theatre, which stages a range of popular performances from May to October every year. With much its original (and highly elaborate) stage machinery, backdrops, and sets still on show, it offers a unique glimpse into the theatrical contrivances of the past, and the opportunity to see how a variety of effects – including storms, rolling waves and thunder – were created in pre-digital times.
The estate also features another unique attraction in the form of the castle-encircling moat. While admiring this particular legacy landmark, keep an eye out for the brown bears that live amid the trees and pools in the space between the first and second courtyards. These noble beasts have lived around the grounds since 1707 and were considered a symbol of the Rožmberks’ connections to the powerful Italian Orsini noble family, while also being incorporated into their coat of arms.
Continuing along the path will take you to yet another of the castle’s iconic features – the Cloak Bridge – a structure that connects the fourth and fifth courtyards. Passing over a precipitous ravine, there are two ways of crossing this three-storey structure – walking beneath or strolling across the top. The bridge can also be accessed from the Old Town via a leafy forest path.
Another fantastic means of exploring Český Krumlov is by renting one of the inflatable rafts from the many vendors lining the river directly adjacent to the castle. Though not ideal for the cooler months, you can float in a loop around the town and gain a unique perspective on this fantastic site. The basic trip takes 30 minutes to an hour, while there’s more adventurous add-ons that can take you as far as the neighbouring villages of Rožmberk and Boršov.
Finally, no trip to this heritage town is complete without sampling many of the local delicacies. Those with a sweet tooth should opt for a tredlnik, an indulgent deep-fried dough roll that comes topped with toppings such as jam, nuts, ice cream or nutella. For more savoury options, step into one of the countless eateries lining the streets and order on of the many hearty Czech classics. With the original Budweiser brewery located just 26km away, it would also be something a misdemeanor, at the very, least not to toast this venerable town with a pint or, shall we say, several. Na zdraví!