The Coonawarra region has played a major role in the transformation of Australia’s wine industry over recent decades. It is situated in the southeast corner of South Australia on the Limestone Coast with the tiny town of Coonawarra at its heart.
The region has garnered a fine reputation for producing Cabernet Sauvignon wines. “It is a region that has often been compared to Bordeaux in terms of its climate, in terms of its temperature, its growing degree days,” says Steph Dutton, Penfolds’ Senior Winemaker.
The area possesses a cooler climate compared to much of Australia and since the sea is only about 60 kilometres away, it falls under a maritime influence. However, it is the soil in the Coonawarra wine region that is widely considered its defining characteristic – and the reason why it has become so adept at making outstanding wines.
Top soil
Italian for red soil, Coonawarra’s famed terra rossa is a permeable light clay over a weathered limestone base that drains well, providing ample air for the vine roots to thrive.
Dutton shares that Penfolds has dug a soil pit in one of its Coonawarra vineyards to view and analyse the amazing soil profile in finer detail. “Across all of the different layers, you’ve got this lovely warm red terra rossa – red soil, a dust almost,” she says.
“This soil profile gives a real sense of place for all wines from Coonawarra and it’s distinctive,” she explains, crediting its unique makeup for the area’s ability to produce premium wines. “These are A-grade wines at the top end of the tree,” she enthuses.
Big three
Aside from Penfolds wines produced in Coonawarra, Dutton admires the output of Wynns Coonawarra Estate and wines from Katnook Estate, especially their recent “very strong” vintages. Receiving her seal of approval, she states: “These are wines that are in my own cellar. They’re probably the big three for me.”
“One of the winemakers that I really admire in Coonawarra is Sue Hodder, the Chief Winemaker for Wynns,” she says. “Wynns are famous for making medium-bodied Cabernets, in particular, that are elegant, a little bit lighter, less heavy and less tannic, but still capable of ageing.”
Dutton also admires the way Hodder has continued to push boundaries and get better and better for Wynns.
Vine age
A recent addition to the Penfolds collection is a particular favourite – the 2021 Bin 180 released to mark the estate’s 180th anniversary. “It is a blend of both Cabernet and Shiraz blocks, which were both planted in the ’60s and ’70s,” she elaborates. “So not only are they planted in the unique terra rossa soils of Coonawarra, but they’ve got vine age on them now as well.
“For wines made from older vines, it’s a little bit like people sometimes – with age you’ve got wisdom, you’ve got character. They are unafraid to express themselves at that stage,” she explains. “The old vine material; a quintessential Australian blend; and the fact that it’s from Coonawarra – this is the trio that brings Bin 180 together.”
Bonded by soil
Coonawarra wines are tied by a common thread, according to Dutton. They are bonded by the region’s unique soil profile and its influence on the tastes and aromas of the wines produced.
“[When describing these wines] I often talk about brick dust in terms of texture – more of a powdery, dusty tannin profile rather than too chalky or blocky for the bigger tannins,” she emphasises. “I also see a lot of savoury notes come through from Coonawarra. By savoury, I mean non-fruit descriptors. I might talk about cured meat, pink peppercorn, dried herbs, sage [and] bay leaf.”