Fusion is a term that has been bandied about in culinary circles for a long time and remains as divisive as its definition is broad. Some deem the entire category as gimmicky and unimaginative, focusing more on style than substance. For its proponents, however, it is a creative reimagining of beloved cuisines that blend two disparate traditions into a synergistic whole.
It is exactly with this spirit in mind that Pazzi Isshokenmei opened its doors in Central’s new lifestyle hub H Queen’s. In particular, the expansive 6,000-square-foot eatery deftly blends Italian ingredients and techniques with the flavours of traditional Japanese izakaya. Even the name reflects its dual roots, with ‘pazzi’ meaning ‘crazy’ in Italian, and ‘Isshokenmei’ being the culturally significant Japanese term for ‘doing something difficult with all one’s might’.
The brainchild of Philip Chow – a 20-year veteran of Hong Kong’s bustling F&B scene – this bold new restaurant is, as its promotional materials aptly claim, “a marriage between boundary-pushing creativity and laser-like precision that manifests in exquisite flavour pairings and fastidious plating”.
Our lunchtime tasting began with a visually stunning plate of Pink Prawn Tartare. Laced with edible flowers and healthy dollops of caviar, the tartare proper features fresh pink prawns tossed in yoghurt to enhance its inherent creaminess. Imparting elements of tartness are slivers of green apple and refreshing Japanese cucumber, with the base sauce of ponzu and shiso leaf oil adding a welcome tanginess to the proceedings.
Though small in size, the second appetiser – Vitello Tonnato, a classic Italian starter of veal and sardines – was equally pleasing to the eye. Here, super slim medallions of veal are topped with chunks of tuna and a light mayonnaise, with the accompanying crouton cubes and cucumber slices bequeathing each mouthful with a delightful crunch.
Then the first main of Lobster Spaghetti hoves into view. The freshly made pasta is tossed in a delicious lobster sauce – made all the richer by a long, slow-cooking process – though the jewel in its crown is undoubtedly the succulent cooked lobster that tops the dish. Packed with oceanic accents, this is a surefire hit for any fan of this beloved shellfish.
Next to arrive was another seafood pasta course – Crab Tagliolini. In a nod to the restaurant’s East-meets-West inspiration, the prime Japanese pairing of crab and miso is given an Italian spin here. Thin strands of tagliolini – made fresh daily – are laden with generous helpings of shredded crab meat, while caramelised onions and miso-rich gravy elevate the dish further by adding an umami-packed punch to each mouthful.
Our final course looked beyond the bounds of Italian and Japanese culinary traditions to that of France. Duck Confit is fronted by two perfectly-cooked ‘steaks’ of duck; the meaty morsels are melt-in-your-mouth soft, while the crispy skin bestows a delectable edgy bite. Accompaniments of potato stacks and beetroot salad further enhance this truly soul-satisfying dish.
From start to finish, every plate in our tasting menu was a symphony of stunning flavours and arresting visual appeal. By taking the best of Japanese and Italian culinary traditions, Pazzi creates something far greater than the sum of its parts, tantalising taste buds and eyes in equal measure. In the end, this is truly fusion cuisine at its finest.
Pazzi Isshokenmei. (852) 2555 0666. 2/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Central.